Sichuan's Tibetan Corner, Outside of Time
C M Y K Sxxx,2012-12-30,TR,004,Bs-4C,E1 4 TR THE NEW YORK TIMES, SUNDAY, DECEMBER 30, 2012 JOURNEYS Sichuan’s Tibetan Corner, Outside of Time By KIT GILLET IGH on the Tibetan plateau, a few dozen red-robed monks of the Lhagang Monastery sat facing one H another, rocking back and forth as they chanted with faces turned upward, to the heavens. In the flickering candlelight of the monastery’s dim main chamber, they then built small pyramids of incense to place throughout the building, adorned with golden Buddhas, and at the center of Tagong. Outside, under the harsh noon sun, the monks mingled with the mainly Buddhist and ethnically Tibetan resi- dents of the frontierlike town, popula- tion 8,000, which despite its makeup is in Sichuan Province, China. “We are all Tibetan,” said Ba Ding, a local shopkeeper. “We do get a few Han Chinese tourists passing through, and we are friendly enough with them,” he added unconvincingly. I had been in Tagong just an hour, af- ter arriving in a small, dusty van that had bounced along rutted roads for the three-hour journey from the nearby city of Kangding, its engine whining as we ascended and descended steep moun- tain passes. After checking into one of the colorful guesthouses across the central square from the monastery, I had simply fol- lowed the brightly dressed monks into the main hall to witness one of their sev- eral daily worship sessions. Tagong, whose altitude of about 12,000 feet makes it one of the highest towns in the world, offers an unfettered window onto the Tibetan people and culture.
[Show full text]