©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Europe on a Shoestring

Scandinavia p131 Russia & the Baltic Coast p773

Great Britain & Ireland p49 Germany, Austria & Central & Benelux Eastern Europe p201 pp671 France & Switzerland p307 p583 Spain & Portugal p377 , Greece & Turkey p471

Mark Baker, Korina Miller, Simon Richmond, Andrea Schulte-Peevers, Andy Symington, Nicola Williams PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD

Welcome to Europe. . . . . 6 GREAT BRITAIN & The Southeast ...... 109 Europe Map...... 8 IRELAND...... 49 The Southwest...... 111 England ...... 52 The West Coast. . . . . 117 Europe’s Top 20 . . . . . 10 London...... 52 Northern Ireland...... 120 Need to Know...... 20 Windsor & Eton ...... 67 Ireland Survival Guide...... 129 First-Time Europe. . . . . 22 Salisbury & Stonehenge...... 68 If You Like ...... 24 Bath...... 69 SCANDINAVIA ...... 131 Month by Month. . . . . 27 Oxford ...... 72 Denmark ...... 134 Itineraries ...... 32 Stratford-upon-Avon. . . . 74 Copenhagen...... 134 Big Adventures, Cambridge...... 76 Helsingør...... 142 Small Budgets ...... 38 York...... 77 Roskilde...... 143 Getting Around Manchester...... 80 Aarhus...... 144 Europe ...... 43 Lake District Skagen...... 145 National Park ...... 81 Regions at a Glance. . . . 46 Denmark Wales ...... 82 Survival Guide...... 145 Cardiff ...... 82 Sweden...... 146 Snowdonia Stockholm...... 146 DIMITRINALAVCHIEVA /SHUTTERSTOCK © National Park ...... 83 Uppsala...... 153 Scotland...... 84 Göteborg...... 153 Edinburgh ...... 84 Gotland ...... 155 Glasgow...... 90 Norrland...... 155 Inverness & Sweden Loch Ness...... 94 Survival Guide...... 157 Isle of Skye...... 95 Finland...... 158 Great Britain Helsinki ...... 158 Survival Guide...... 96 Turku ...... 164 Ireland ...... 99 Lakeland ...... 166 KOPRIVSHTITSA, Dublin...... 99 BULGARIA P748 Lapland ...... 167 TTSTUDIO /SHUTTERSTOCK © TOMASZSZYMANSKI /SHUTTERSTOCK ©

PARIS, FRANCE P310 WARSAW, P691 Contents

Finland

Survival Guide...... 168 ©GREG SINCLAIR/500PX Norway...... 170 Oslo ...... 170 The Western Fjords...... 175 Northern Norway...... 180 Norway Survival Guide...... 183 Iceland...... 184 Reykjavík...... 184

The Golden Circle ...... 191 CAUSEWAY COAST, The South...... 191 NORTHERN IRELAND P126 The North ...... 194 Iceland Antwerp...... 257 FRANCE & Survival Guide...... 199 Ghent...... 260 SWITZERLAND. . . . 307 Bruges...... 262 France...... 310 GERMANY, Ypres...... 265 Paris...... 310 AUSTRIA Mons...... 266 Lille...... 328 & BENELUX. . . . . 201 Belgium The Somme...... 332 Survival Guide...... 267 Germany ...... 204 Normandy...... 333 Luxembourg ...... 268 Berlin...... 204 Mont St-Michel...... 334 Luxembourg City...... 268 Dresden...... 217 Brittany...... 335 Leipzig ...... 220 Luxembourg Survival Guide...... 270 The Loire Valley ...... 336 Munich...... 222 Champagne...... 339 The Romantic Road...... 226 Netherlands...... 271 Lyon ...... 341 Nuremberg ...... 229 Amsterdam...... 271 Chamonix ...... 344 Heidelberg...... 232 Delft...... 277 Bordeaux...... 345 Black Forest ...... 233 Rotterdam...... 279 Provence ...... 346 Frankfurt- Maastricht...... 281 French Riviera...... 350 am-Main...... 235 Netherlands Monaco ...... 354 The Romantic Survival Guide...... 282 France Rhine Valley...... 237 Austria...... 283 Survival Guide...... 356 Trier ...... 238 Vienna ...... 283 Switzerland...... 358 Cologne...... 239 Graz ...... 293 Geneva...... 358 Düsseldorf...... 242 Klagenfurt...... 296 Lausanne...... 362 Hamburg...... 244 Salzburg...... 296 Valais...... 365 Bremen ...... 248 Salzkammergut . . . . . 300 Mittelland & Germany Bernese Oberland . . . . . 366 Survival Guide...... 249 Tyrol...... 301 Austria Lucerne...... 369 Belgium...... 250 Survival Guide...... 305 Basel...... 371 Brussels...... 250 Zurich...... 372 ON THE ROAD

Ticino...... 373 Barcelona ...... 402 Greece ...... 519 Switzerland Girona...... 411 Corfu ...... 519 Survival Guide...... 374 The Balearic Islands . . . . 412 Athens...... 527 Valencia...... 421 Delphi...... 536 SPAIN & Andalucía...... 424 Santorini ...... 539 PORTUGAL . . . . . 377 Spain Rhodes...... 542 Spain ...... 380 Survival Guide...... 442 Greece Madrid...... 380 Portugal...... 443 Survival Guide...... 547 Around Madrid...... 390 Lisbon ...... 443 Turkey...... 550 San Sebastián...... 392 Around Lisbon ...... 450 Antalya...... 550 Bilbao...... 394 The Algarve...... 453 Selçuk ...... 555 Burgos...... 396 Évora...... 458 İstanbul...... 558 Salamanca...... 397 Óbidos...... 459 Ankara...... 568 León...... 399 Nazaré...... 460 Konya...... 571 Santiago de Coimbra...... 460 Cappadocia...... 575 Compostela...... 400 Porto...... 463 Turkey Braga ...... 468 Survival Guide...... 578 Parque Nacional DANIEL_KAY /SHUTTERSTOCK © da Peneda-Gerês...... 468 BALKANS ...... 583 Portugal Slovenia...... 586 Survival Guide...... 469 Ljubljana ...... 586 Bled ...... 592 ITALY, GREECE & Piran...... 595 TURKEY...... 471 Slovenia Italy...... 474 Survival Guide...... 596 Venice...... 474 Croatia...... 597 Florence...... 487 Zagreb...... 597 Rome ...... 495 LAKE DISTRICT, Rovinj...... 603 GREAT BRITAIN P81 Italy Survival Guide . . . . 515 Split ...... 605 ©GMLYKIN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©MARGARET STEPIEN/LONELY

SAN SEBASTIÁN, COPENHAGEN, SPAIN P392 DENMARK P134 Contents

Dubrovnik ...... 609 Poland ...... 691 Tartu...... 810 Croatia Warsaw ...... 691 Pärnu...... 813 Survival Guide...... 613 Kraków...... 699 Estonia Bosnia & Hercegovina. . . . 615 Poland Survival Guide...... 815 Sarajevo...... 615 Survival Guide...... 706 Latvia...... 816 Mostar...... 622 Hungary...... 707 Rīga...... 816 Bosnia & Hercegovina Budapest ...... 707 Jūrmala...... 824 Survival Guide...... 624 Northeastern Hungary . . .. 717 Sigulda...... 826 Montenegro...... 626 Hungary Cēsis...... 828 Budva...... 626 Survival Guide...... 720 Ventspils ...... 829 Kotor...... 630 ...... 722 Latvia Perast...... 632 Bucharest ...... 722 Survival Guide...... 830 Lovćen National Park . . . . 633 ...... 729 Lithuania...... 831 Cetinje...... 634 Romania Vilnius ...... 831 Montenegro Survival Guide...... 738 Trakai...... 839 Survival Guide...... 636 Bulgaria...... 739 Kaunas...... 840 Albania...... 637 Sofia...... 739 Klaipėda...... 843 Tirana...... 637 Plovdiv...... 745 Curonian Spit Berat...... 643 Koprivshtitsa...... 748 National Park ...... 844 Gjirokastra...... 644 Veliko Târnovo...... 749 Lithuania Survival Guide...... 845 Albania Varna ...... 751 Survival Guide...... 645 Sozopol ...... 754 Macedonia...... 647 Bulgaria Skopje ...... 647 Survival Guide...... 756 SURVIVAL Ohrid ...... 652 Ukraine...... 757 GUIDE Pelister National Park. . . . 656 Kyiv...... 757 Macedonia Lviv...... 764 Directory A–Z...... 848 Survival Guide...... 656 Ukraine Transport...... 858 ...... 658 Survival Guide...... 769 ...... 658 Language...... 865 Novi Sad...... 666 RUSSIA & THE Index...... 874 Niš...... 667 BALTIC COAST. . . . 773 Map Legend...... 894 Serbia Survival Guide...... 669 Russia...... 776 Moscow...... 776 St Petersburg...... 787 CENTRAL & EASTERN EUROPE. . .. 671 Peterhof...... 795 SPECIAL Pushkin (Tsarskoe Selo). . .. 795 Czech Republic. . . . . 674 FEATURES Kaliningrad Region. . . . . 795 First-Time Europe. . . . . 22 Prague...... 674 Russia Big Adventures, Bohemia...... 685 Survival Guide...... 797 Small Budgets ...... 38 Moravia ...... 688 Estonia...... 800 Getting Around Europe. . .. 43 Czech Republic Tallinn...... 800 Survival Guide...... 689 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 32 MAPICS /SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Plan Your Trip Itineraries

SWEDEN Giant's Causeway •# DENMARK COPENHAGEN #_ IRELAND #_ DUBLIN #– BRITAIN AMSTERDAM BERLIN Oxford •# LONDON #_ #_ Bath •# POLAND •# #_ Stonehenge NETHERLANDS GERMANY PRAGUE •# £# BELGIUM #_ Kraków CZECH #_ REPUBLIC PARIS #_ BUDAPEST AUSTRIA SWITZERLAND HUNGARY Venice #_LJUBLJANA FRANCE •# •# ITALY Piran CROATIA Florence Split •# •# Dubrovnik f# •# •#Lake PORTUGAL #_ ROME ALBANIA Koman SPAIN •#Drymades

8 WEEKS First-Time Europe

your next stop: London. The city is pricey, This combo of major league countries but affordable if you focus on its free mu- and left-field destinations provides an seums and parks. Travel west to marvel irresistible mix of world-famous sights at Stonehenge and wander the historic and unforgettable experiences for the streets of Oxford and Bath. first-time European traveller. Return to London to board the Eurostar or a low-cost airline flight (often cheaper) Ease into the first two weeks with Ireland for the next couple of weeks to hop around and Great Britain. The atmosphere of a some of the continent’s iconic northern bar provides the perfect introduc- Dublin metropolises. In Paris you will be dazzled tion, followed by a few days exploring the by the Louvre, Eiffel Tower and Versailles. city’s museums and literary haunts. It Check out more classic art, plus those costs nothing to walk across the Unesco- cafes, in enchanting Amsterdam. Get a listed in Northern Giant’s Causeway taste of Scandinavia in Copenhagen, the Ireland, which leaves more money to enjoy 33 PLAN YOUR YOUR PLAN TRIP TRIP It i nerar i es

Piran (p595), Slovenia coolest kid of the Nordic bloc. And unleash ney down the scenic Dalmatian Coast via your inner party animal in Berlin, where Split and Dubrovnik, both with ancient you can also see the remains of the wall. ruins to explore. End up off the beaten track in Albania, where you can sail on a Go through the former Iron Curtain ferry across beguiling and to the gorgeous old Polish royal capital of Lake Koman relax at a beachside campsite in Dry­ Kraków, miraculously spared destruction on the Albanian Riviera. in WWII. If you thought that was stunning mades wait till you see the architectural glories of Cruise across the Adriatic on one of the Prague. Continue to Budapest to freshen ferry services to Italy, where your final up in thermal baths and enjoy cafes and week’s pit stops include hauntingly beauti- bars, followed by a visit to Slovenia’s eco- ful Venice, the exquisite Renaissance time friendly capital Ljubljana. capsule of Florence, and Rome. The Venetian-style seaside resort of Piran is a good starting point for a jour- 34 CGE2010 /SHUTTERSTOCK © 8 WEEKS East to West

This trans-European journey kicks off in the east, a dynamic part of Europe where it’s still possible to encounter under-the-radar experiences. Then enjoy a more leisurely pace of life along the balmy Mediterranean coast as you continue west towards the resorts of Spain and Portugal.

Begin in Russia’s capital Moscow, where the imposing Kremlin and adjacent Red Square are guaranteed to strike you with awe. Take an overnight train to St Petersburg, home to the magnificent art collection of the Hermitage and gorgeously restored imperial palaces. Another overnight train will whisk you to Latvia’s lovely art-nouveau captial Rīga, where you can get a taste of the Baltic. If the weather’s fine consider a day trip to the chic beach resort of Jūrmala. Poland’s capital Warsaw is a vibrant city that’s survived all that history could throw at it. Continue into Ukraine and spend a few days in Unesco World Heritage–listed Lviv, which oozes Central European charm. Move on to Transylvania and sharpen your fangs at ‘Drac- ula’s’ castle in Bran. Romania’s dynamic capital Bucharest is next, with its good museums, parks and trendy cafes.

Sofia, Bulgaria’s relaxed capital, is another ©DOMINGO LEIVA/GETTY IMAGES recommended pitstop en-route to the beautiful, chaotic İstanbul: when you’ve had your fill of sightseeing you can relax in a hamam (Turkish steam bath). Explore the ancient world with the Acropolis in Athens, then island-hop to volcanic San­ torini. Pick up the pace by flying to Spain where the genius of Gaudí, cultural riches and glorious food beckon in supercool Barcelona. Zip north to Basque seaside resort San Seb­ astián, with its delicious food scene, and to the Museo Guggenheim in happening Bilbao. End in energetic Madrid, home to some of Europe’s finest galleries and bars. Head south to see the beautiful Moorish architecture of the Alhambra in Granada and the stunning Mezquita of Córdoba. Cross to Portugal where the fascinating capital Lisbon offers a lamplit old quarter and superb pastéis de nata (custard tarts) in the waterside Belém Top: Mezquita (Mosque; p429), Córdoba, Spain district. Bottom: Blackheads House (p817), Rīga, Latvia 35

St Petersburg •# NORWAY ESTONIA SWEDEN #_ LATVIA Jūrmala •##_ MOSCOW RĪGA LITHUANIA RUSSIA B A LT I CDENMARK S E A RUSSIA IRELAND WARSAW BELARUS BRITAIN #_ POLAND GERMANY •# Lviv UKRAINE CZECH REPUBLIC MOLDOVA

FRANCE •#Transylvania HUNGARY Bran•#ROMANIA B L A C K #_ BUCHAREST S E A Bilbao SERBIA San •#•# BULGARIA Sebastián #_ İstanbul •# PORTUGAL SPAIN ITALY SOFIA •# Barcelona LISBON #_ MADRID ALBANIA TURKEY

#_ –# Córdoba GREECE •# ATHENS #_ •# Granada •# Santorini Naxos & Paros

36

TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN CK TRA EATEN B E H T OFF

# 0 1,000 km Off the Beaten Track – Europe e0 500 miles

THE WESTFJORDS ABISKO (SWEDEN) INARI (FINLAND) (ICELAND) A prime viewing spot for the Aurora This tiny village is home to the Surround yourself in Iceland’s most Borealis, Abisko lies near the national wonderful Siida museum devoted to dramatic landscapes, including park of the same name and is the Sámi culture and environment, and a jagged bird cliffs, broad multihued start or endpoint for the spectacular great base for hiking in the nearby beaches, jaw-dropping coastal fjords, 425km Kungsleden hiking trail. Lemmenjoki National Park and Kevo immense central mountains and (p155) Strict Nature Reserve. tiny fishing villages embracing (p167)

traditional ways of life. (p191) #\ The Westfjords Inari #\ Abisko REYKJAVÍK DAUGAVPLIS (LATVIA) #_ ICELAND With a fairly well-preserved historical centre and a mighty fortress, Daugavplis has more recently been put on the tourist map by the new Rothko Centre devoted to SWEDEN FINLAND contemporary art. (p828)

NORWAY HELSINKI _# ^#St Petersburg OSLO _# #_ _# BREST (BELARUS) TALLINN SCOTLAND STOCKHOLM MOSCOW This relatively prosperous and #_ NORTHERN cosmopolitan border town has plenty EDINBURGH RĪGA _# Daugavpils IRELAND _# #^ of charm as well as the impressive RUSSIA VILNIUS 19th century Brest Fortress. #_ COPENHAGEN _# BELFAST _# BELARUS Reconstruction has been rampant as ^# _# DUBLIN #_ BRITAIN Kaliningrad Brest gears up for its millennial MINSK IRELAND AMSTERDAM BERLIN celebrations in 2019. (p766) ENGLAND #_ #_ #\ Brest #_ #_ _# WARSAW #_ CARDIFF #_ KYIV WALES LONDON #_ BRUSSELS POLAND #_ UKRAINE _# GERMANY PARIS #_ PRAGUE LUXEMBOURG BRATISLAVA CITY #__# _# VIENNA #_ #^ Odesa #_ #_ CHIŞINĂU BAKU BERN BUDAPEST #_ FRANCE VADUZ #_ TBILISI #_ LJUBLJANA _# BELGRADE BUCHAREST #_ ZAGREB _# #_ GALICIA SAN MARINO YEREVAN MONACO#_ #_ _# PRISTINA #_ #_ SARAJEVO _# SOFIA İstanbul TURKEY PORTUGAL SPAIN _# ANDORRA _# ^# ROME#_ PODGORICA #_ ANKARA LISBON #_ LA VELLA _# SKOPJE _# MADRID TIRANA ITALY Konya Western #\ Ioannina #] Algarve #\ Izmir #_ Antalya ATHENS ^# (Kaleiçi) #_ BAGHDAD GREECE _# BEIRUT #_ NICOSIA #_ DAMASCUS _# (LEFKOSIA) VALLETTA

WESTERN ALGARVE (PORTUGAL) GALICIA (SPAIN) CHIŞINĂU (MOLDOVA) ODESA (UKRAINE) If you like pristine sand and wild sea, A Coruña has a lovely beach, Use the lively capital of Chişinău as a An energetic, decadent boomtown of this area offers some of Europe’s fabulous seafood and is the gateway base from which to explore this pastel-coloured neoclassical most sublime beaches. Aljezur, to the Costa da Morte and Rías Central European country's fledgling buildings, famous for its Potemkin Carrapateira and Odeceixe are all Altas. Inland, Lugo is surrounded by wine-tourism industry, delightfully Steps sweeping down to the Black small, pretty towns with cheap some of the world’s best preserved unspoiled countryside and authentic Sea and Ukraine’s biggest lodging and eating options. Roman walls. village hospitality. commercial port. (p765)

(p453) (p402) (p736)

PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN E H T OFF CK TRA EATEN B 37 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 873

Behind the Scenes

SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed- back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, pp1633–44. Illustrations pp86–7, pp322–3, pp330–1, pp388–9, pp404–5, pp414–15, pp484–5, pp496–7, pp508–9, pp510–11, pp780–1, pp788–9 by Javier Zarracina; pp60–1 by Javier Zarracina and Michael Weldon. Cover photograph: Vespa scooter, Douglas Carr/ Alamy ©

Fahey, Gemma Graham, Niamh Gray, Sandie Kestell, Cath THIS BOOK O’Brien, Tom Stainer, Anna Lanigan, Amy Lysen, Susan This 10th edition of Lonely Tyler, Brana Vladisavljevic, Paterson Planet’s Europe on a Shoe- Clifton Wilkinson Assisting Cartographers string guidebook was curated Senior Product Editors Anne Laura Bailey, Anita Banh by Mark Baker, Korina Miller, Mason, Elizabeth Jones Assisting Book Designer Simon Richmond, Andrea Product Editor Alison Ridgway Katherine Marsh Schulte-Peevers, Andy Syming­ Senior Cartographer Cover Researcher Naomi ton, Brana Vladisavljevic and Mark Griffiths Parker Nicola Williams. This guidebook Book Designer Thanks to Carolyn Boicos, was produced by the following: Michael Weldon Adriaan Boogert, Victoria Managing Destination Editor Assisting Editors Kate Chap- Dickson, James Hardy, Clara Jennifer Carey man, Pete Cruttenden, Bruce Monitto, Claire Murphy, Kirsten Rawlings, John Taufa Destination Editors Daniel Evans, Samantha Forge, Shona ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 874

Index

A Alhambra 414-15, 432-4, archaeological sites Street of the Knights Aachen 242 414-15 Acropolis (Athens) 527 (Rhodes) 544 Aarhus 144 Amboise 338-9 Acropolis of Lindos 547 Temple of Olympian Zeus (Athens) 531 ABBA 147 Amsterdam 15, 271-7, 272, Amphitheatre (Trier) 238 Temple of Poseidon (Cape abbeys, see monasteries 274-5, 15 Ancient Agora (Athens) Sounion) 533 Abisko 155 accommodation 274-6 527, 530 activities 273-4 Ancient Akrotiri 539 Templo Romano (Évora) accommodation 22, 39, 458-9 848-50, see also drinking 276-7 Ancient Delphi 536 Terme di Caracalla individual locations food 275, 276 Ancient Serdica Complex (Rome) 505 Acropolis (Athens) 18, (Sofia) 743 nightlife 276-7 art galleries, see galleries 527, 18 Basilica Cistern sights 271-3 Asturias 400 activities 25-6, 27-31, see tourist information 277 (İstanbul) 561 Athens 18, 527-36, 528-9, 18 also individual activities, tours 273-4 Cappadocia 575 individual locations accommodation 531-2 travel to/from 277 Castelo (Óbidos) 459 air travel, see also individual discount cards 527 travel within 277 Colosseum (Rome) 495 locations drinking 533-4 walking tours 274 Convento do Carmo & to/from Europe 858 Museu Arqueológico emergencies 534 Andalucía 424-42 within Europe 43-4, 859 (Lisbon) 448 festivals & events 531 Andrićgrad 621 Akureyri 194-5 Didyma 555 food 532-3 angora wool 569 Åland 166 Diocletian’s Palace (Split) music 534 Ankara 568-71, 570 Albania 41, 637-47, 584-5 605, 607 safety 534 accommodation 583, 645 Antalya 550-5, 554 Ephesus 557 shopping 534 budgeting 639 Antwerp 257-9, 258 Kaiserthermen (Trier) 238 sights 527, 530-1 climate 639 Arc de Triomphe 315 Konstantin Basilika (Trier) tourist information 534 239 drinking 639 archaeological museums tours 531 (Niš) 668 food 639, 646 Archaeological Museum travel to/from 534-5 of Macedonia (Skopje) Miletus 555 highlights 584-5, 638 travel within 535-6 647 Morbihan megaliths 335 holidays 646 ATMs 852 Archaeological Museum Palatino (Rome) 12, internet access 646 aurora borealis 183, 197 (Rhodes) 544-5 500, 13 internet resources 639 Auschwitz-Birkenau Archaeological Museum Panathenaic Stadium Memorial & Museum itineraries 638 (Sofia) 743 (Athens) 531 704 language 639, 865 Archaeological Museum Pantheon (Rome) 501 money 646 (Sozopol) 754 Austria 41, 46, 201, 283- Pompeii 510-11, 512, 306, 202-3 opening hours 646 Archaeological Museum 510-11 (Split) 607 accommodation 305 telephone services 646 Porta Nigra (Trier) 238 Archaeological Museum activities 285 travel seasons 639 Priene 555 (Varna) 752 budgeting 285 travel to/from 639, 646 Promontório do Sítio İstanbul Archaeology climate 285 travel within 639, 646-7 (Nazaré) 460 Museums 560 emergencies 201 Albanian language 639, 865 Roman Amphitheatre National Archaeological highlights 202-3, 284 Albanian Riviera 644 (Plovdiv) 745 Museum (Athens) 530 holidays 305-6 Albayzín 433 Roman Baths (Bath) 69 National Museum of internet resources 285, Algarve, the 453, Roman Forum (Rome) 452-3 Ireland – Archaeology 305 (Dublin) 102 500, 508-9, 508-9 itineraries 284 Veliko Târnovo Roman Thermae (Varna) language 285 Archaeological Museum 753 Map Pages 000 (Veliko Târnovo) 749 Stonehenge 68 LGBT travellers 305 Photo Pages 000 875 money 305 beer Berlin Wall 13, 208-9, Bucovina 728 opening hours 305 Belgium 262 210-11, 13, 208-9 Budapest 15, 707-17, 710, travel seasons 285 Czech Republic 28, 683 Bern 366-8 712, 15, 770 travel to/from 285, 306 Germany 248 Bernese Oberland 366-9 accommodation 714-15 travel within 285, 306 Greece 539 bicycle travel, see cycling drinking 716 Avignon 349-50 Ireland 99, 102 Biertan 733 entertainment 716

Ávila 387 Lithuania 843-4 Bilbao 394-6, 394 food 714, 715 INDEX Aya Sofya (İstanbul) 558-9 Netherlands 273 Billund 142 nightlife 716 Belá Tatras 690 Black Forest 233-5, 234 sights 707, 710-11, 713-14 tourist information 716  A-C B Belarus 42, 766, 672-3, Bled 592-5, 594 travel to /from 716-17  Bacharach 237 767 Blois 337-8 travel within 717 Balearic Islands 412-20 Belfast 120-6, 122 Blue Lagoon (Reykjavík) 190 budgeting 21, 38-42, Balkans 41-2, 47, 583- Belgium 41, 201, 250-68, see also 670, , see also 202-3 boat travel 584-5 individual locations individual countries accommodation 267 ferry travel 161, 181, Budva 626-30, accommodation 583 budgeting 253 242, 642 627 buildings, see notable food 583 climate 253 to/from Europe 859 buildings highlights 584-5 emergencies 201 within Europe 860 Bulgaria 739-57, 672-3 ballooning 574, 576 food 253 Bohemia 685-8 accommodation 756 Baltic Coast 42, 47, 800- highlights 202-3, 252 books 21 activities 741 46, 774-5, see also holidays 267 Bordeaux 345-6 individual countries internet resources 253 border crossings 858-9 budgeting 741 accommodation 773 itineraries 252 Bosnia & Hercegovina climate 741 food 773 language 253 615-26, 584-5 food 756 highlights 774-5 LGBT travellers 267 accommodation 624-5 highlights 740 Bamberg 229 money 267 activities 617, 620 holidays 756 Banja Luka 621 opening hours 267 budgeting 617 itineraries 740 Barcelona 16, 402-11, 406- travel seasons 253 climate 617 language 741, 865 7, 410-11, 16 travel to/from 253 food 625 money 756 accommodation 408 travel within 253 highlights 616 telephone services 756 holidays 625 travel seasons 741 drinking 409 Belgrade 658-66, 662-3 travel to/from 756-7 entertainment 410 Benelux 41, 46, 250-83, internet access 625 food 408-9 202-3, see also internet resources 617 travel within 741, 757 nightlife 409 individual countries itineraries 616 visas 756 sights 402-8 budgeting 253 language 617 865 tourist information 411 climate 253 money 625 Burgas 754 travel to/from 411 food 253 opening hours 625 Burgos 396-7 travel within 411 highlights 202-3 safety 625 bus travel 44-5, 860 bargaining 849 internet resources 253 telephone services 625 bushwalking, see hiking bars 26 itineraries 252 travel seasons 617 business hours 853, Basel 371-2 languages 253 travel to/from 617, 625 see also individual locations basilicas, see churches & travel seasons 253 travel within 617, 625-6 cathedrals travel within 253 Bosphorus 560 Bath 69-71, 70 Berat 643-4 Boukari 526 C bathrooms 855 Bergen 176-8, 177 Braga 468 Cadaqués 413 Bayeux 333-4 Berlin 204-17, 205, 210, Brajčino 656 Cádiz 436-8, 437 beaches 24 212, 214-15, 13, 208-9 Bran 734 cafes 26 Andalucía 441 accommodation 213-15 Braşov 731-4, 732 Cambridge 76-7 Bulgaria 751, 752, 754 discount cards 204 Bratislava 690 campervans 860 Cádiz 436 drinking 216-17 Braubach 238 camping 848-9 Jūrmala 824-5 food 215-16 Bremen 248-9 Campo de’ Fiori 501 Lagos 456 free attractions 211 Brest 766 Cancale 336 Macedonia 653 nightlife 216-17 Britain, see Great Britain cannabis 851, 852 Montenegro 626 sights 204, 208-11, 213 Brittany 335-6 Cannaregio 478 Pärnu 813 tourist information 217 Brno 688-95 Cannes 352-3 Santorini 539-40 tours 213 Bruges 262-5, 263 Canterbury 67 Serbia 663, 666 travel to/from 217 Brussels 250-7, 254-5 Cape Sounion 533 Ventspils 829 travel within 217 Bucharest 722-9, 726 Cappadocia 574, 575-8, 574 876 car travel 45, 860-2 Gravensteen (Ghent) 261 Schloss Mirabell Basilica of St Stephen Cardiff 82-3 Hofburg (Innsbruck) 302 (Salzburg) 299 (Budapest) 714 Carnac-Ville 335 Hofburg (Vienna) 288 Schloss Neuschwanstein Basilique du Sacré-Cœur Carnevale 27 Île du Grand Bé & Fort (Hohenschwangau) (Paris) 314-15 227 Cascais 451-3 du Petit Bé 336 Basilique Notre Dame de Kaiserappartements Schloss Sanssouci Fourvière (Lyon) 341 castles & palaces 24, see (Potsdam) 216 INDEX INDEX also fortresses (Vienna) 288 Catedral & Giralda Kaiserburg (Nuermberg) Schloss Schönbrunn (Seville) 425 Achillion Palace (Corfu) (Vienna) 290 526 231 Catedral (Burgos) 396 Kalaja (Berat) 643 Sigulda Medieval Castle Catedral de Santiago de C Alcazaba (Málaga) 439 827  Compostela 401-2  Alhambra (Granada) Karlštejn Castle (Prague) Topkapı Palace Catedral de Valencia 414-15, 432-4, 414-15 675 (İstanbul) 560 422-3 Austria 201 Kilkenny Castle 109 Trakai Castle 839 Cathedral of Christ the Biljarda (Cetinje) 634 King Nikola Museum (Cetinje) 634-5 Turaida Museum Reserve Saviour (Moscow) 784 Bled Castle 592-3 827 Kronborg Slot Cathedral of St Domnius Bran Castle 734, 19 (Helsingør) 142 Turun Linna (Turku) 164 (Split) 607 Buckingham Palace Kungliga Slottet Villa Medici (Rome) 503 Cathedral of the (London) 52-3 Assumption of the (Stockholm) 146, 196 Vorontsov Palace Cardiff Castle 82 (Odesa) 765 Blessed Virgin Mary Livonian Order Castle (Zagreb) 602 Čaršija (Skopje) 647 (Ventspils) 830 Wawel Royal Castle (Kraków) 699, 701 Cathédrale de Notre Castelo (Óbidos) 459 Ljubljana Castle 586 Wilanów Palace Dame (Lausanne) 364 Castelo de São Jorge Lynch’s Castle (Galway) (Warsaw) 696 Cathédrale Notre Dame (Lisbon) 448 117-18 Windsor Castle de Paris 314, 2 Castelo dos Mouros Malbork Castle 697 (Sintra) 451 (England) 68 Cathédrale St-André Munich Residenz 223 Castle Howard (York) 79 Würzburg Residenz (Bordeaux) 345 Olavinlinna (Savonlinna) 228-9 Cathédrale St-Jean- Cēsis Castle 828 166-7 Zwinger (Dresden) 218 Baptiste (Lyon) 341-2 Český Krumlov State Old Royal Palace cathedrals, see churches & Chiesa di San Giorgio Castle 686 (Prague) 674 cathedrals Maggiore (Venice) 478 Château d’Azay-le- Palácio Nacional de Rideau (Touraine cell phones 20, 854 Church of Our Lady Sintra 450 Before Týn (Prague) region) 338 Central Europe 42, 47, Palacio Real (Madrid) 381 675 Château de Bouillon 266 671-772, 672-3, see also Palais des Papes individual countries Church of the Saviour Château de Chambord (Avignon) 349 on the Spilled Blood (Blois region) 337 drinking 671 Palais Princier de (St Petersburg) 787, Château de Chenonceau Monaco 355 food 671 792, 17 (Touraine region) 338 Palau de l’Almudaina highlights 672-3 Dom (Salzburg) 297 Château de Cheverny (Palma de Mallorca) Cēsis 828-9, 829 Domkyrka (Uppsala) 153 (Blois region) 337 416 Český Krumlov 686-8, 687 Duomo (Florence) 487 Château de St-Malo 336 Prague Castle 674 Cetinje 634-5 Église Notre-Dame du Château de Versailles Real Alcázar (Seville) 425 Chamonix 344-5 Sablon (Brussels) 250 328, 330-1, 25, 330-1 Rector’s Palace Champagne 339-41 Église St-Germain des Château de Villandry (Dubrovnik) 610-11 Prés (Paris) 310 (Touraine region) 338 chateaux, see castles & Residenz (Salzburg) 297 palaces Frauenkirche (Dresden) Château Royal Royal Castle (Warsaw) 217 d’Amboise 338 Checkpoint Charlie 210 695, 2 Fraumünster (Zürich) Château Royal de Blois Chişinău 736 Royal Palace 372 337 churches & cathedrals (Amsterdam) 273 Freiburger Münster 233 Citadel (Sighişoara) 734 Aachen 242 Royal Palace (Budapest) Aleksander Nevski Glasgow Cathedral 92 Dolmabahçe Palace 707 (İstanbul) 561 Cathedral (Sofia) 739 Hallgrímskirkja Schloss Ambras Alexander Nevsky (Reykjavík) 185, 196 Dunvegan Castle (Skye) (Innsbruck) 303 95 Orthodox Cathedral Hofkirche (Innsbruck) Schloss Belvedere 302 Edinburgh Castle 84 (Tallinn) 804-5 (Vienna) 289, 14 Holy Spirit Lutheran Eger Castle 717 Basilica di San Giovanni Schloss Charlottenburg in Laterano (Rome) Church (Tallinn) 801 Germany 201 (Berlin) 213 505 I Frari (Venice) 478 Gjirokastra Castle 645 Schloss Eggenberg Basilica di San Marco Igreja de São Francisco (Graz) 295 (Venice) 474 (Porto) 465 Schloss Heidelberg 232 Basilica di Santa Maria Kaiserdom (Frankfurt Map Pages 000 Schloss della Salute (Venice) am Main) 235 Photo Pages 000 Hohenschwangau 227 478 877 King’s College Chapel Cinque Terre 494 Czech Republic 42, 674-91, Dresden 217-20, 218 (Cambridge) 76 Çıralı 558 672-3 drinking 24-5, 26, see also Kölner Dom (Cologne) climate 20, 27-31, see accommodation 689, individual locations 239 also individual locations 691 driving, see car travel La Catedral (Barcelona) clothing 22, 849 budgeting 677 drugs 851-2, 853 403 clubbing 419 climate 677 Drvengrad 659

La Sagrada Família INDEX coffee 320 drinking 677 Dublin 99-109, 104-5 (Barcelona) 403, Coimbra 460-3, 462 food 677, 691 accommodation 103, 105 404-5, 16, 404-5 highlights 676 discount cards 99, 108 Nativity of Christ Cologne 239-42, 240-1 holidays 690  C-E Cathedral (Rīga) 820 Colosseum 495 drinking 106-7 internet resources 677 Nidaros Domkirke Connemara 120 entertainment 107-8 (Trondheim) 180 consulates 850 itineraries 676 food 105-6 Onze-Lieve- Conwy 83 language 677, 866 nightlife 106-7 Vrouwekathedraal Copenhagen 134-42, money 690 sights 99, 102-3 (Antwerp) 257 138-9, 4 opening hours 690 tourist information 108 Onze-Lieve-Vrouwekerk accommodation 135, 140 telephone services 690 tours 103 (Bruges) 264 discount cards 134 travel seasons 677 travel to/from 108 Rīga Cathedral 816 drinking 141 travel to/from 677, 691 travel within 108, 109 Roskilde Domkirke 143 food 140-1 travel within 677, 691 Dubrovnik 18, 609-13, Sainte-Chapelle (Paris) nightlife 141 610-11, 18 314 sights 134-5 Dune du Pilat 347 Salisbury Cathedral 68 D tourist information 141 Duomo (Florence) 487 Sé (Braga) 468 Dalí, Salvador 413 tours 135 Durmitor National Park Sé (Évora) 458 dangers, see safety travel to/from 141-2 634 Sé (Porto) 465 Danish language 866 travel within 142 Düsseldorf 242-4, 243 Sé Velha (Coimbra) 462 Valley 292 Córdoba 429-31, 430, Dutch language 866 Sistine Chapel 501 Daugavpils 828 34-5 St Anne’s Church David 491 (Warsaw) 695-6 Corfu 519-27, 522 D-Day beaches 333 E St Canice’s Cathedral Corfu Town 522-6, 524-5 debit cards 852 Eastern Europe 42, 47, (Kilkenny) 109-10 Cork 111-14, 112 Delft 277-8 671-772, 672-3, see also St Mary’s Basilica costs 40-2 Delphi 536-7, 537 individual countries (Kraków) 701 credit cards 852 Denmark 40, 134-46, drinking 671 St Nicholas’ Cathedral Croatia 597-615, 584-5 132-3 food 671 (Braşov) 731 accommodation 613-14 accommodation 145 highlights 672-3 St Nicholas Church activities 599 budgeting 137 Edinburgh 84-9, 88, 86-7 (Prague) 680 budgeting 599 climate 137 Eger 717-20 St Patrick’s Cathedral climate 599 food 137 Eiffel Tower 12, 310, 12 (Dublin) 102-3 food 583, 614 gay travellers 145 El Escorial 392 St Paul’s Cathedral (London) 58 highlights 584, 598 highlights 136 electricity 850 St Peter’s Basilica holidays 614 internet resources 137 embassies 850 (Rome) 500 internet access 614 itineraries 136 emergencies 21, 854, see St Sophia’s Cathedral internet resources 599 language 137, 866 also individual locations (Kyiv) 762 itineraries 598 LGBT travellers 145 England 52-82, 50-1 St Vitus Cathedral language 599, 865-6 money 145-6 Epernay 340-1 (Prague) 674 money 614 opening hours 146 Ephesus 557 Stavropoleos Church opening hours 614 telephone services 146 Estonia 800-16, 774-5, 801 (Bucharest) 723 telephone services 614 travel seasons 137 accommodation 815, 816 Stephansdom (Vienna) travel seasons 599 travel to/from 137, 146 budgeting 803 289 travel to/from 599, travel within 137, 146 climate 803 Sveta Sofia Church 614-15 food 803, 816 (Sofia) 742 Derry 126-9, 127 travel within 599, 615 highlights 802 Turun Tuomiokirkko dervishes 568 (Turku) 164-5 Croatian language 865-6 Dihovo 656 holidays 815 Vilnius Cathedral 834 Curonian Spit National disabilities, travellers with internet resources 803 Park 844-5 Wawel Cathedral 855-6 itineraries 802 (Kraków) 701 currency 20, 852 discount cards 39, see also language 803, 867 Westminster Abbey customs regulations 850 individual locations telephone services 815 (London) 52 cycling 45, 859-60 Djerdap National Park 659 tourist information York Minster 77 Czech language 866 Dracula 729 815-16 878 Estonia continued fortresses travel to/from 313, Hermitage travel seasons 803 Alcázar (Toledo) 390-1 357-8 (St Petersburg) 787, travel to/from 816 Alcázar de los Reyes travel within 313, 358 788-9, 788-9 travel within 803, 816 Cristianos (Córdoba) visas 357 Hungarian National Gallery (Budapest) websites 803 429-30 Frankfurt-am-Main 235-7 710-11 Estonian language 867 Ayasuluk Fortress Freiburg 233-5 İstanbul Modern 561

INDEX INDEX (Selçuk) 555-6 etiquette 23, 849 French language 867 K20 Grabbeplatz Barbican (Warsaw) 695 French Riviera 350-4 Eton 67-8 (Düsseldorf) 242-3 Bock Casemates fuel 860-1 events 27-31, 42 (Luxembourg) 268-9 K21 Ständehaus E-G Füssen 226-7  Évora 458-9 Brest Fortress 766 (Düsseldorf) 243

exchange rates 21 Citadela (Budva) 626 Kadriorg Art Museum  (Tallinn) 806 exchanging money 852 Citadella (Budapest) 711 G Kelvingrove Art Gallery & Dubrovnik 609-10 Galicia 402 Museum (Glasgow) 91 Eger Castle 717 Galičnik 655 F Klimt Villa (Vienna) 290 fado 451 Festung Hohensalzburg galleries 26, see also Kunsthaus (Zürich) 373 farmstays 849 (Salzburg) 296-7 museums Albertina (Vienna) 288 Kunsthaus Graz 295 Faro 454-5, 454 Fort Sint Pieter Alte Pinakothek Kunsthistorisches ferry travel 181, 642 (Maastricht) 282 (Munich) 223 Museum Vienna 290 festivals 27-31, 42, see also Fortaleza de Sagres 457 ARoS Aarhus Kunstmuseum Basel 371 individual locations Fortress Kunstmuseum 144 La Piscine Musée d’Art Fierzë 642 (Djerdap National Park) 659 Astrup Fearnley Museet et d’Industrie (Lille) Finland 41, 158-70, 132-3 329 Kalemegdan Citadel (Oslo) 171 accommodation 168, (Belgrade) 658 Ateneum (Heksinki) 158 Leopold Museum 169 (Vienna) 289-90 Klis Fortress (Split) 607 Capitoline Museums budgeting 161 Louisiana (Copenhagen) Niš Fortress 668 (Rome) 495, 500 climate 161 135 Palaio Frourio (Corfu Centre Pompidou (Paris) Louvre-Lens 329 discount cards 169 Town) 523 315 MACBA (Barcelona) food 161 Peter & Paul Fortress (St Centro de Arte Reina 403-8 highlights 160 Petersburg) 792 Sofía (Madrid) 380 Manchester Art internet resources 161 Petrovaradin Citadel Design Museum Gallery 80 itineraries 160 (Novi Sad) 666 (Helsinki) 159 Meštrović Gallery (Split) language 161, 867 Suomenlinna (Helsinki) Designmuseum Danmark (Copenhagen) 134 607 LGBT travellers 169 159 Dublin City Gallery – MK Čiurlionis National money 169 Town Walls (Kotor) 630 the Hugh Lane 102 Museum of Art opening hours 169 Tsarevets Fortress (Kaunas) 840 (Veliko Târnovo) 749 Erarta Museum of travel seasons 161 Contemporary Art Montenegrin Art Gallery travel to/from 161, 169 Tvrdina Kale Fortress (Cetinje) 635 (Skopje) 650 (St Petersburg) 792 travel within 161, 170 MUMOK (Vienna) 290 Vyšehrad Citadel Ermita de San Antonio Munchmuseet (Oslo) 174 weather 161 (Prague) 681 de la Florida (Madrid) 381 Musée Cantonal des Finnish language 867 France 41, 47, 307, 310-58, Flåm 178-9 Fondation Beyeler Beaux Arts (Lausanne) 308-9 (Basel) 371 364 flamenco 428, 431 accommodation 307, Galleria degli Uffizi Musée d’Art Moderne, Florence 487-95, 488-9 356 (Florence) 487, 490, d’Art Contemporain accommodation 491-2 budgeting 313, 357 496-7, 496-7 et d’Art Brut - LaM drinking 493 climate 313 Galleria dell’Accademia (Lille) 329 food 492 drinking 313 (Florence) 490 Musée des Beaux-Arts nightlife 493 emergencies 307 Galleria Doria Pamphilj (Lyon) 342-3 sights 487, 490-1 food 307, 313, 357 (Rome) 503 Musée d’Orsay (Paris) tourist information 493 highlights 308-9, 312 Gallerie dell’Accademia 311 travel to/from 493 holidays 357 (Venice) 474 Musée du Louvre (Paris) 314, 322-3, travel within 495 internet resources Garage Museum of 322-3 food 23, 25, 850, see 313, 357 Contemporary Art Musée Guimet des Arts Asiatiques (Paris) 315 also individual locations itineraries 312 (Moscow) 777 Musée Magritte Formentera 418 language 313, 867 Groeningemuseum (Bruges) 263-4 (Brussels) 251 money 357 Hamburger Kunsthalle Musée Marmotan Monet opening hours 357 (Hamburg) 245 (Paris) 315 Map Pages 000 telephone services 357 Hermitage Amsterdam Musée Matisse (Nice) Photo Pages 000 travel seasons 313 271-3 351-2 879 Musée National Picasso National Gallery of Geirangerfjorden 179-80 money 49 (Paris) 315 Macedonia (Skopje) Geneva 358-62, 359 opening hours 97 650 Musée Rodin (Paris) 310 Georgia 42, 718, 672-3, 719 telephone services 97 National Gallery of Musées Royaux des German language 867-8 travel seasons 55 Beaux-Arts (Brussels) Slovenia (Ljubljana) Germany 41, 46, 201, 204- travel to/from 55, 97-8 250-1 586 National Portrait Gallery 50, 202-3 travel within 55, 98-9

Museo Carmen Thyssen INDEX (Málaga) 439 (London) 53 accommodation 249 visas 49 Museo del Bargello Neue Galerie Graz 295 budgeting 207 Greece 41, 47, 471, 519-50, (Florence) 490 Neue Pinakothek climate 207 472-3 Museo del Prado (Madrid) (Munich) 223 drinking 207 accommodation 547  G-H New Tretyakov Gallery emergencies 201 activities 471  388-9 ,388-9 ,380 Museo e Galleria (Moscow) 777 food 207, 249 archaeological sites 471 Borghese (Rome) 503 Palais des Beaux Arts highlights 202-3, 206 budgeting 521 Museo Guggenheim (Lille) 328 holidays 249 children, travel with 549 Bilbao 395 Peggy Guggenheim internet resources 207 climate 521 Collection (Venice) Museo Novecento itineraries 206 consulates 548 (Florence) 490-1 475 language 207, 867-8 customs regulations 547 Museo Picasso Málaga Pushkin Museum of Fine LGBT travellers 249 embassies 548 439 Arts (Moscow) 777 money 249 emergencies 548 Museo Thyssen- Reykjavík Art Museum – etiquette 548 Bornemisza (Madrid) Hafnarhús 184 opening hours 249 380 Rīga Art Nouveau travel seasons 207 food 521, 549 Museu Calouste Museum 820 travel to/from 207, highlights 472-3, 520 Gulbenkian – Coleção Rijksmuseum 249-50 holidays 549 do Fundado (Lisbon) (Amsterdam) 271 travel within 207, 249-50 internet access 548 448 Rubenshuis (Antwerp) Geysir 191 internet resources 521 Museu Nacional d’Art de 258 Ghent 260-2, 260 itineraries 520 Catalunya (Barcelona) State Hermitage Giant’s Causeway 126, 3 language 521, 868 408 Museum Girona 411-12 LGBT travellers 548 Museu Nacional de Arte (St Petersburg) 787, Antiga (Lisbon) 448 788-9, 788-9 Gjirokastra 644-5 money 548 Museu Picasso Statens Museum for Glacier Express 365 opening hours 548-9 (Barcelona) 403 Kunst (Copenhagen) Glasgow 90-3, 90-1 safety 547-8 Museum der Bildenden 135 Glastonbury 69 telephone services Künste (Leipzig) 220 Street Art Museum (St gluten-free travellers 319 548, 549 Museum der Moderne Petersburg) 793 Göreme 575-8 travel seasons 521 (Salzburg) 299 Tate Britain (London) 52 Gorky Park 777 travel to/from 521, 550 Museum het Tate Modern (London) Gospa od Škrpjela 633 travel within 521, 550 58 Rembrandthuis Göteborg 153-4 visas 549-50 (Amsterdam) 271 Van Gogh Museum Gotland 155 Greek language 868 Museum Jean Tinguely (Amsterdam) 271 Grenen 145 Granada 431-6, 432 (Basel) 371-2 Vatican Museums 495, Grindelwald 369 500-1 Grand Canal (Venice) Museum Ludwig Gullfoss 191 (Cologne) 240 Vermeer Centrum Delft 484-5, 484-5 Museum of 278 Grasmere 81 Contemporary Art Victoria & Albert Graz 293-5, 294 H (Belgrade) 659 Museum (London) 59 Great Britain 39-42, 46, Hadrian’s Wall 81 Museum of Whitworth Art Gallery 49-130, 50-1, see also Hallstatt 301 Contemporary Art (Manchester) 80 individual countries hamams 551, 561 (Zagreb) 601 Witte de With Centre accommodation 49, Hamburg 244-8, 246-7 Museum of Islamic Art for Contemporary Art 96, 97 Hardangerfjord 180 (Athens) 531 (Rotterdam) 279 budgeting 55 health 850-1 Museum of New Art Zentrum Paul Klee climate 55 Heidelberg 232-3 (Pärnu) 813 (Bern) 367 drinking 49 Hellenic Festival 29 Nasjonalgalleriet (Oslo) Galway 117-20, 118 emergencies 49 171 Helsingør 142-3 Gammel Skagen 145 food 55, 97 National Gallery (Dublin) Helsinki 158-64, gardens, see parks & highlights 50-1, 54, 95 162-3 102 gardens Hercegovina, see Bosnia & holidays 97 National Gallery gas 860-1 Hercegovina (London) 53 internet resources 55, 96 gay travellers 852, see also Hermitage (St Petersburg) itineraries 54 National Gallery of Arts individual countries 787, 788-9, 788-9 (Tirana) 637 LGBT travellers 96 880 High Tatras 690, 25 I food 563, 566-7 Jewish Cemetery (Warsaw) 696 highlights 10-19, see also Ibiza 418-20, 419 sights 558-63 individual countries Jewish Museum Iceland 41, 184-200, 132-3 tourist information 567 hiking 168, 458 (Moscow) 785 accommodation 199 tours 563 Cinque Terre 494 Jewish Museum budgeting 187 travel to/from 567 Delphi 536-7 (Prague) 674 climate 187 travel within 567-8 INDEX INDEX Dubrovnik 612 Jüdisches Museum food 187 Italian language 868 (Berlin) 213 Ihlara Valley 576 highlights 186 Italy 41, 47, 471, 474-519, Museu d’Història dels Kerry Way 115 internet resources 187 472-3 Jueus (Girona) 412

H-L Ladder of Cattaro 631  itineraries 186 accommodation 515 Museum of the History Lofoten 181 activities 471 language 187 of Polish Jews  Santorini 539 LGBT travellers 199 budgeting 477, 515 (Warsaw) 696 Split 607 money 199 children, travel with 517 Prague Jewish Museum Hill of Crosses 843 674 opening hours 199 climate 477 historical sites 26, see Schindler’s Factory telephone services 199 consulates 515 also archaeological discount cards 515 (Kraków) 702 sites travel seasons 187 drinking 477 John Lennon Wall 680 hitching 862-3 travel to/from 187, 200 electricity 515 Jökulsárgljúfur 194, 195 Hitler, Adolf 205, 297 travel within 187, 200 embassies 515 Jökulsárlón 193 Hitler’s Bunker 205 Ihlara Valley 576, 577 emergencies 515 Julian Alps 593 Hohe Tauern National immigration 20, 856 etiquette 515 Jungfraujoch 369 Park 303 Inari 167 food 477, 516 Jūrmala 824-6 holidays 853, see also Innsbruck 301-4, 302 highlights 472-3, 476 individual countries insurance holidays 516-17 homestays 849 car 861 K internet ressources 477 hostels 849 health 851 Kaleiçi 551, 554 itineraries 476 hot baths 711, 15, see travel 851 Kaliningrad 795-6, 796 language 477, 868 also hamams, saunas Interlaken 368 Kalithea Thermi 546 legal issues 516 hot-air ballooning, see internet access 851, see Kaunas 840-3, 841 ballooning also individual countries LGBT travellers 515-16 Kilkenny 109-11, 110 money 516 hotels 849-50 internet resources 21, 38, Killarney 115-16, 116 868 851, see also individual opening hours 516 Kiruna 156-7 Hungary 42, 707-21, countries telephone services Kitzbuhel 304-5 515, 517 672-3 Inverness 94-5 Klagenfurt 296 accommodation 720, Ireland 39, 46, 99-130, time 517 Klaipėda 843-4, 844 721 50-1 tourist information 517 Köln 239-42 budgeting 709 accommodation 129 travel seasons 477 Koman 642 climate 709 budgeting 101 travel to/from 477, 518 Konjic 621 drinking 709 climate 101 travel within 477, 518-19 Konya 571-3, food 709, 714, 721 discount cards 99, 121 visas 518 572 Koprivshtitsa 748-9, 2 highlights 708 food 101, 130 itineraries 32-7, 32, 35, holidays 720-1 highlights 50-1, 100, 128 36-7, see also Kosovo 42, 657, 657 internet resources 709 holidays 129-30 individual countries Kotor 19, 630-2, 631, 19 itineraries 708 internet resources Kraków 699-706, 700 language 709, 868 101, 129 J Kremlin, the 776, 780-1, money 720 itineraries 100 Jajce 621 780-1 Kruševo 647 opening hours 720 language 101 Janče 655 Kuldīga 825 telephone services 721 LGBT travellers 129 Jewish museums & sites, travel seasons 709 opening hours 129 see also Kurshskaya Kosa National Park 797 travel to/from 709, 721 telephone services 130 synagogues Kutná Hora 685-6 travel within 709, 721 travel seasons 101 Anne Frank Huis 271 Hurtigruten 181 travel to/from 101, 130 Auschwitz-Birkenau Kyiv 757-64, 760-1 Húsavík 198-9 travel within 101, 130 Memorial & Museum 704 Hvar Island 608 islands 24 Galicia Jewish Museum L Isle of Skye 95-6 La Rambla (Barcelona) (Kraków) 702 İstanbul 16, 558-68, , 402 559 Holocaust Museum 562, 564-5, 16 (Vilnius) 835 La Sagrada Família accommodation 563, (Barcelona) 403, 404-5, Map Pages 000 Hungarian Jewish 566 16, 404-5 Photo Pages 000 Museum & Archives drinking 567 (Budapest) 713 Lagos 455-7, 456 881 Lahemaa National Park telephone services 846 travel seasons 649 Monaco 354-6, 355 807 travel seasons 833 travel to/from 658 monasteries Lake Balaton 715 travel to/from 846 travel within 649, 658 Abbaye du Mont Lake Bled 592 travel within 833, 846 Macedonian language St-Michel 334 Lake District National Park Lithuanian language 869 869 Batalha 461 81-2, 4 Ljubljana 586-92, 590 Mackintosh, Charles Bucovina painted

Rennie 93 monasteries 728 INDEX Lake Ohrid 654 Locarno 374 Capuchin Monastery Lakeland 166-7 Loch Lomond 94 Madrid 380-1, 384-90, (Brno) 688 Landmannalaugar 193-4 Loch Ness 94-5 384-5 Cetinje Monastery 635 languages 20, 865-72 accommodation 381  L-M Lofoten Islands 181-2, 182, Lapland 167-8, 197 drinking 386-7 Convento de Cristo  196-7 entertainment 387, 390 (Tomar) 461 Las Fallas de San José 424 Loire Valley 336-9 food 381, 386 Dominican Monastery & Latvia 816-31, 774-5, London 11, 52-67, 56-7, 62, Museum (Dubrovnik) nightlife 386-7 820-1 64, 66, 10-11, 60-1 612 sights 380-1 accommodation 830 accommodation 62-3 Franciscan Monastery & budgeting 819 drinking 63-5 tourist information 390 Museum (Dubrovnik) climate 819 entertainment 65 travel to/from 390 612 food 819, 830 food 63 travel within 390 Gračanica 657 highlights 818 nightlife 63-5 Málaga 439-41, 440 Kyevo-Pecherska Lavra (Kyiv) 762 holidays 830 sights 52, 58-9 Mallorca 413-16, 413 Meteora monasteries internet resources 819, tourist information 65-6 Manchester 80-1 830 538 travel to/from 66 Maršal Tito’s Mausoleum itineraries 818 659 Mosteiro de Santa Maria travel within 66-7 language 819, 869 Marseille 346-8 de Alcobaça Londonderry 126-9, 127 (Alcobaça) 461 telephone services 830 Matterhorn 18, 366, 18 Los Sanfermines 396 Mosteiro dos Jerónimos travel seasons 819 Mavrovo National Park Louvre Museum 314, 322-3, (Lisbon) 448 travel to/from 830-1 655 322-3 Ostrog Monastery (Zeta memorials & monuments travel within 819, 831 Lovćen National Park Valley) 635 Auschwitz-Birkenau Latvian language 869 633-4 Rila Monastery 747, Memorial & Museum Lausanne 362-5, 363 Lübeck 248 704 771 Le Mur des Je t’aime 314 Lucerne 369-71 St Michael’s Golden- Beaumont-Hamel Domed Monastery Lefkimmi 526 Lukomir Village 620 Newfoundland (Kyiv) 762 legal matters 851-2 Luxembourg 201, 252-3, Memorial (Somme) Legoland 142 268-70, 202-3 332 Visoki Dečani 657 Leipzig 220-2, 221 Luxembourg City 41, 268- Ćele Kula (Niš) 668 money 20, 21, 23, 852-3 Lens 329 70, 269 Fishermen’s Bastion bargaining 849 León 399-400 Lviv 764-8 (Budapest) 711 tipping 23, 849 lesbian travellers 852 Lyon 341-4, 342-3 Gedenkstätte Berliner Mons 266-7 Leuven 257 Lysefjord 175 Mauer (Berlin) 210-11 Montenegro 626-37, LGBT travellers 852, see Holocaust Memorial 584-5 also individual countries (Berlin) 204-5 accommodation 583, M 636 Lille 328-32 Ilinden Uprising Maastricht 281-3 Monument (Kruševo) budgeting 629 Lindos 546-7 Macedonia 647-58, 584-5 647 climate 629 Lisbon 17, 443-50, accommodation 656, Kościuszko Mound food 583, 629, 636 446-7, 17 (Kraków) 702 658 highlights 584-5, 628 literature 21 Ring of Remembrance budgeting 649 holidays 636 Lithuania 831-46, 774-5, (Somme) 332 climate 649 internet access 636 834 drinking 649 Vimy Ridge Canadian accommodation 845 National Historic Site internet resources food 649, 658 629 budgeting 833 (Somme) 332-3 highlights 648 itineraries 628 climate 833 Menorca 418, 417 holidays 658 language 629 food 833 Messonghi 526 internet access 656 money 636 highlights 832 Meteora 538 internet resources 649 opening hours 636 holidays 845 Mezquita 429, 34-5 itineraries 648 telephone services 636 internet resources 833, Minsk 766 language 649, 869 travel seasons 629 845 Mittelland 366-9 money 656 travel to/from 636-7 itineraries 832 mobile phones 20, 854 opening hours 658 travel within 629, 637 language 833, 869 Moldova 42, 736, 672-3, telephone services 658 Mont St-Michel 334 LGBT travellers 845 737 882 monuments, see Antalya Museum 551 Maritime Museum of Museum of Anatolian memorials & Apple Museum (Prague) Montenegro (Kotor) Civilisations (Ankara) monuments 680 630 568 Moraïtika 526 Ashmolean Museum Medieval Mile Museum Museum of Broken Moravia 688-9 (Oxford) 72 (Kilkenny) 110 Relationships (Zagreb) Morocco, travel to 438 Auschwitz-Birkenau Memorial House of 601 Mother Teresa (Skopje Museum of Prehistoric INDEX INDEX Moscow 776-87, 782-3 Memorial & Museum 704 651 Thera (Santorini) 539 accommodation 784-5 Aya Sofya (İstanbul) Mevlâna Museum Museum of Science & drinking 785 558-9 (Konya) 571 Industry M entertainment 786 Mons Memorial Museum (Manchester) 80 

Bach-Museum Leipzig  food 785 221 266 Museum of the Ninth nightlife 785 Benaki Museum Mozart’s Geburtshaus Fort (Kaunas) 840 shopping 786 (Athens) 530 (Salzburg) 297 Museum of the sights 776-7, 780-1, 784 BMW Museum (Munich) Mozart-Wohnhaus Romanian Peasant tourist information 786 223 (Salzburg) 298 (Bucharest) 723 tours 784, 786 British Museum M/S Museet for Søfart Museum of Vojvodina (Novi Sad) 666 travel to/from 786 (London) 53 (Helsingør) 142-3 Byzantine & Christian MSK (Ghent) 261 Museum of Wooden travel within 786-7 Artefacts & Stone mosques Museum (Athens) Mucha Museum (Prague) 530 681 Carving (Konya) 572 Aya Sofya (İstanbul) Museum of Yugoslavia 558-9 Chopin Museum Mudam (Luxembourg) (Warsaw) 695 270 (Belgrade) 659 Blue Mosque (İstanbul) MuseumsQuartier 559 City Museum (Tallinn) Musée des Civilisations 801 de l’Europe et de la (Vienna) 289 Et’hem Bey Mosque Méditerranée National History (Tirana) 641 Ephesus Museum (Selçuk) 555 (Marseille) 347 Museum (Tirana) Ferhadija Mosque (Banja Musée des Confluences 637, 641 Luka) 621 Estonian National Museum 810-11 (Lyon) 343 National Museum Mezquita (Córdoba) 429, (Belgrade) 662 Galway City Museum 117 Musée d’Histoire de la 34-5 National Museum Göreme Open-Air Ville de Luxembourg Painted Mosque (Tetovo) (Prague) 680-1 Museum 575 269 647 National Museum Haus der Musik (Vienna) Musée du Doudou Roznamedži (Reykjavík) 185 289 (Mons) 266-7 Ibrahimefendi Mosque Musée du Petit Palais National Museum (Mostar) 623 Historisches Grünes (Sarajevo) 615 Gewölbe (Dresden) (Avignon) 349 Süleymaniye Mosque 219 Musée du Quai Branly National Museum and (İstanbul) 560 Memorial to the History Museum of (Paris) 310 Mostar 622-4, 622 Musée Masséna (Nice) Victims of Occupation Lithuania Minor 843 (Lviv) 765 motorcycle travel 860-2 Hospital de los 351 mountains Musée Mémorial de la National Museum Venerables Sacerdotes Cardiff 82 Accursed Mountains 642 (Seville) 425-6 Bataille de Normandie National Museum of Harder Kulm 368 (Bayeux) 334 Hôtel des Invalides Ireland – Decorative High Tatras 690 (Paris) 310 Musée National du Moyen Âge (Paris) 311 Arts & History Julian Alps 593 Icelandic Phallological (Dublin) 102 Museum (Reykjavík) Museo Correr (Venice) Matterhorn 18, 366, 18 474-5 National Museum of 185 Lithuania (Vilnius) 834 Rila Mountains 747 Museo de Bellas Artes Institut du Monde Arabe National Museum of Rugova Mountains 657 (Paris) 311 (Bilbao) 395 Mozart, Wolfgang Amadeus Scotland (Edinburgh) Jorvik Viking Centre Museo de Bellas Artes 85 297, 298 (Seville) 427 (York) 78 National Museum of Munich 222-6, 224-5 Kaiserliche Museo de Cádiz 436 Slovenia (Ljubljana) museums 26, 158, see also Schatzkamme Museo de la Evolución 586-7 archaeological (Vienna) 288 Humana (Burgos) museums, Jewish National Museum KGB Cells Museum 396 (Ohrid) 654 museums & sites, (Tartu) 812 Museo Nazionale galleries National Railway La Cité du Vin Etrusco di Villa Giulia Museum (York) 77-8 Acropolis Museum (Bordeaux) 345-6 (Rome) 503, 505 (Athens) 527 Nationalmuseet Lithuania Sea Museum Museu Fundación Juan (Copenhagen) 134 844 March (Palma de Mallorca) 416 Natural History Museum Little Museum of Dublin (London) 59 Museum Boijmans van Map Pages 000 102 Neues Museum (Berlin) Lvivarnya (Lviv) 765 Beuningen Photo Pages 000 (Rotterdam) 279 205 883 Museum Skansen (Stockholm) Ķemeri National Park Normandy 333-4 (Belgrade) 659 147 825 Norrland 155-7 Nobelmuseet Skógar Folk Museum Killarney National Northern Ireland 120-9 (Stockholm) 147 193 Park 115 northern lights 183, 197 Olympic Museum Southern Fortress Wall Kurshskaya Kosa Norway 41, 170-84, (Lausanne) 364 & Tower Museum National Park 797 132-3 (Sozopol) 754 accommodation 183, 184

Onufri Museum (Berat) Lahemaa National Park INDEX 643 Stasi Museum (Leipzig) 807 budgeting 173 Oslekov House 220 Lake District National climate 173 (Koprivshtitsa) 748 Svrzo House (Sarajevo) Park 81-2 drinking 173 Palacio de Viana 619 Lovćen National Park food 173  M-N (Córdoba) 429 Tiroler Landesmuseum 633-4 highlights 172  Palais du Tau (Reims) Ferdinandeum Marjan Forest Park 607 internet resources 173 (Innsbruck) 303 339-40 Mavrovo National Park itineraries 172 Titanic Belfast 121 Palazzo Ducale (Venice) 655 language 173, 869 474 Tower Museum (Derry/ Mt Dajti National Park LGBT travellers 183 Palazzo Vecchio Londonderry) 127 641 money 183 (Florence) 487 Tunnel Museum Parque Nacional da opening hours 184 People’s History (Sarajevo) 615, 619 Peneda-Gerês 468-9, telephone services 184 Museum Ulster Folk Museum 469 (Manchester) 80 (Belfast) 121 Parque Nacional de los travel seasons 173 Pera Museum (İstanbul) Universeum (Göteborg) Picos de Europa 400 travel to/from 184 561-3 154 Pelister National Park travel within 173, 184 Pergamonmuseum University of Tartu 656 Norwegian language 869 (Berlin) 205 Museum 810 Plitvice Lakes National notable buildings Pitt Rivers Museum Vasamuseet Park 604 Alhambra (Granada) 414- (Oxford) 72 (Stockholm) 147 Skaftafell 194, 194 15, 432-4, 414-15 Polaria (Tromsø) 182-3 Viking Ship Museum Snowdonia National Anne Hathaway’s Ragnarock (Roskilde) (Roskilde) 143 Park 83-4 Cottage (Stratford- 143 Vikingskipshuset (Oslo) Sutjeska National Park upon-Avon) 75 Rīga History & 171 620 Arc de Triomphe (Paris) Navigation Museum Vitra Campus (Weil am Tara National Park 659 315 817 Rhein) 370 Vatnajökull National Park Belfort (Ghent) 261 Riverside Museum Wales Millennium Centre (Jökulsárgljúfur) 194 Blackheads House (Rīga) (Glasgow) 91 (Cardiff) 82 Žemaitija National Park 817, 34 Rockheim (Trondheim) War Childhood Museum 845 Brandenburger Tor 180 (Sarajevo) 619 Þingvellir National (Berlin) 204 Römisch-Germanisches War Photo Limited Park 191 Capilla Real (Granada) Museum (Cologne) (Dubrovnik) 611 Nazaré 460 434 239-40 Warsaw Rising Museum Nesebâr 751 Casa Batlló (Barcelona) Russian Museum (St (Warsaw) 696 Netherlands 41, 201, 271- 403 Petersburg) 787 Yorkshire Museum (York) 83, 202-3 Casa de Pilatos (Seville) Rynek Underground 78-9 426 (Krawków) 701 accommodation 253, music 26, see also Cat House (Rīga) 817 Salisbury Museum individual music styles 283 Chester Beatty Library 68-9 budgeting 253 Mývatn 195, 198 (Dublin) 102 Salzburg Museum 298 climate 253 Ciudad de las Artes y las Sammlung Rosengart emergencies 201 N Ciencias (Valencia) (Lucerne) 370 food 253 423 San Telmo Museoa (San national parks & reserves, highlights 202-3, 252 see also parks & Eiffel Tower (Paris) 310 Sebastián) 392 internet resources 253 gardens Houses of Parliament Schokoladenmuseum itineraries 252 (London) 52 (Cologne) 240-1 Belavezhskaya Pushcha National Park 766 language 253, 866 La Lonja (Valencia) 421 Science Centre AHHAA opening hours 283 La Pedrera (Barcelona) (Tartu) 811 Connemara National Park 120 travel seasons 253 403 Science Museum travel to/from 283 Le Clos Lucé (Amboise) (London) 59 Curonian Spit National Park 844-5 travel within 283 338-9 Scuola Grande di San Linnahall (Tallinn) 806 Rocco (Venice) 474 Djerdap National Park New Holland 792 659 Livraria Lello (Porto) 466 Sergej Mašera Maritime Nice 350-2, 351 Museum (Piran) 595-6 Durmitor National Park nightlife 24-5, see also Lotrščak Tower (Zagreb) 634 601 Sir John Soane’s individual locations Museum (London) 58 Hohe Tauern National Niš 667-9 Minaret (Eger) 718 Park 303 884 notable buildings Novi Sad 666-7 Łazienki Park (Warsaw) language 693, 870 continued Nuremberg 229-32, 230 695 money 706 Municipal House Mon Repos Estate (Corfu opening hours 706 (Prague) 675 Town) 523 telephone services 706-7 O National & University Park Güell (Barcelona) travel seasons 693 Library (Ljubljana) Óbidos 459-60 403 travel to/from 707 586 Odesa 765

INDEX INDEX Park Zaryadye 776 travel within 693, 707 Old Library & Book of Ohrid 652-6, 653 Parque del Buen Retiro Polish language 870 Kells (Dublin) 99 Oia 541 (Madrid) 380 Pompeii 510-11, 512, Old Town Hall (Brno) 688 Oktoberfest 30, 223 Primorski Park (Varna) N- 510-11  Palace of Parliament Olympos 558 752 P (Bucharest) 722-3 Pont du Gard 349  opening hours 21, 853, Punta Corrente Forest Palace of the Grand see also individual Park (Rovinj) 604 Porto 463-8, 464-5 Master (Rhodes) 544 locations Tivoli Gardens Portugal 41, 47, 377, 443- 70, Palácio da Bolsa (Porto) Oslo 170, 174-5, 170-1 (Copenhagen) 134 378-9 465 Östersund 155-6 Topčider Park (Belgrade) accommodation 377, Panteón Real (León) 399 663 469, 470 Oxford 72-4, 73 Panthéon (Paris) 311 Vingis Park (Vilnius) 831 budgeting 445 oysters 336 Parliament & Changing Vondelpark (Amsterdam) climate 445 of the Guard (Athens) 273 discount cards 469 531 P Pärnu 813-15, 814 emergencies 377 Parliament (Budapest) paella 425 Parque Nacional da Peneda- food 377, 445 714 palaces, see castles & Gerês 468-9, 469 highlights 378-9, 444 Pyramid (Tirana) 641 palaces passports 20, 856 holidays 470 Quinta da Regaleira Palatino (Rome) 12, Pelister National Park 656 internet resources 445 (Sintra) 450-1 500, 13 péniches 344 itineraries 444 Rathaus (Hamburg) 245 Palazzo Vecchio 487 Perast 632-3 language 445, 870 Real Mary King’s Close Paleokastritsa 526 Peterhof 795 (Edinburgh) 84 LGBT travellers 470 Palma de Mallorca 413, 416 Petriti 526 Reichstag (Berlin) 204 money 470 Pamplona 396 petrol 860-1 Roman Baths (Bath) 69 opening hours 470 papier mâché 424 pickpockets 853-4 Romanian Athenaeum telephone services 470 Paris 310-28, , , (Bucharest) 723 316-17 321 Picos de Europa 400 travel seasons 445 324-5, 2, 12, 23 Royal Crescent (Bath) Pine Cone Train 350 travel to/from 470 accommodation 318 69-70 Piran 595-6, 33 travel within 445, 470 discount cards 311 Sarajevo City Hall 615 pizza 505 Portuguese language 870 drinking 320-1, 326-7 Scottish Parliament planning, see also Porvoo 164 entertainment 327 (Edinburgh) 85 individual countries postal services 853 food 318-20 Shakespeare’s Birthplace budgeting 21, 38-42 Postojna 592 (Stratford-upon-Avon) nightlife 320-1, 326-7 calendar of events 27-31 Potsdam 216 74-5 sights 310-15, 323-5 checklist 22 Prado Museum (Madrid) Shakespeare’s Globe tourist information 327 Europe basics 20-1 380, 388-9, (London) 59 388-9 travel to/from 327 Europe’s regions 46-7 Stadshuset (Stockholm) Prague 14, 674-85, 678-9, travel within 327-8 internet resources 21, 147 682, 14, 770-1 parks & gardens 38, 851 Stari Grad (Budvar) 626 accommodation 681 Cave Hill Country Park itineraries 32-7, 32, 35, Strahov Library (Prague) drinking 683 121, 123 36-7 675, entertainment 683-4 770 Englischer Garten travel seasons 20, 27-31 food 681-3 Tallinn Town Hall 800 (Munich) 223 Plitvice Lakes 604 nightlife 683 Tower of London 58 Gorky Park (Moscow) Plovdiv 745-8, 746 Trinity College 777 sights 674-5, 680-1 Poland 42, 691-707, (Dublin) 99 Jardin des Tuileries tourist information 684 672-3 Universidad Civil (Paris) 314 travel to/from 684 accommodation 706 (Salamanca) 398-9 Jardin du Luxembourg travel within 684-5 budgeting 693 Vilnius University 835 (Paris) 310-11 Preikestolen 175, 7 climate 693 Zekate House Jardines del Turia Pristina 657 drinking 693 (Gjirokastra) 645 (Valencia) 423 Provence 346-50 food 693, 706 Novi Pazar 665 Jardins do Palácio de public holidays 853 Cristal (Porto) 466 highlights 672, 692 Pushkin (Tsarskoe Selo) Kadriorg Park (Tallinn) holidays 706 795 Map Pages 000 806 internet resources 693 Pyla-sur-Mer 347 Photo Pages 000 Keukenhof (Lisse) 277 itineraries 692 885 Q Rome 12, 495-515, 498-9, Salisbury 68-9 Skagen 145 502, 504, 506-7, 13 Salzburg 296-300, Skellig Michael 117 Quimper 335 298 accommodation 505-7 Salzkammergut 300-1 Skógar 193 discount cards 503 Salzwelten 301 Skopje 647, 650-2, 650 R drinking 513 San Sebastián 392-4, Slovak language 871 racism 853 food 507, 512-13 393, 4 Slovakia 42, 690, 672-3 rafting 593 nightlife 513 Santa Claus Village 169 Slovene language 871 INDEX rail passes 44, 863 opening hours 516 Santiago de Compostela Slovenia 42, 586-97, Red Square 776 safety 514 400-2, 401 584-5, 587

Reims 339-40 sights 495, 497, 500-3, Santorini 14, 539-42, accommodation 596,  Q-S rembetika 534 505 540, 14 597  Reykjavík 184-5, 188-90, tourist information Sarajevo 615, 618-21, 618 budgeting 589 188-9, 196 514 saunas 158 climate 589 Rhine River 237-8, travel to/from 514 Savonlinna 166-7 drinking 589 236-7 travel within 514-15 scams 854 food 589 Rhodes 542-7, 543 Ronda 441-2 Scandinavia 40-1, 46, highlights 584, 588 Rhodes Town 542-6, Roskilde 143-4 131-200, 132-3, see holidays 597 544-5 Rothenburg ob der Tauber also individual countries internet access 596 227-8 Riesenrad 290 accommodation 131 internet resources 589 Rotterdam 279-81, Rīga 816-24, 822 280 food 131 itineraries 588 Rovaniemi 167-8 accommodation 821, highlights 132-3 language 589, 871 823 Rovinj 603-5 Schengen Agreement 855 money 596 drinking 823-4 Royal Mile (Edinburgh) Schindler, Oskar 702 opening hours 597 entertainment 824 86-7, 86-7 Schloss Hohenschwangau telephone services 597 food 823 Running of the Bulls 227 travel seasons 589 nightlife 823-4 (Pamplona) 396 Schloss Neuschwanstein travel to/from 589, 597 sights 816-17, 820-1 Russia 42, 47, 776-800, 227 travel within 589, 597 tourist information 824 774-5 Scotland 84-96, 50-1 weather 589 tours 821 accommodation 797, 798 Selçuk 555-8, 556 budgeting 779 smoking 849 travel to/from 824 Serbia 658-70, 584-5 climate 779 Snowdonia National Park travel within 824 accommodation 583, 83-4 food 779, 798 669 Ring of Kerry 116-17 Sofia 739, 742-5, 742-3 highlights 774-5, 778 activities 661 Rock of Cashel 113 Sognefjorden 178-9 holidays 798 budgeting 661 Roman Forum 500, 508-9, Somme, the 332-3 508-9 internet resources 779 climate 661 Sozopol 754-6, 755 Roman ruins, see itineraries 778 food 583, 699 Spain 41, 47, 377-443, archaeological sites language 779, 870-1 highlights 584-5, 660 378-9 Romania 42, 722-39, , LGBT travellers 797 holidays 669 672-3 accommodation 377, money 798 722 internet access 669 442 accommodation 738 opening hours 797 internet resources 661 budgeting 383 budgeting 725 safety 798 itineraries 660 climate 383 climate 725 telephone services 798 language 661, 865-6 discount cards 442 drinking 725 travel seasons 779 money 669 emergencies 377 food 725, 738 travel to/from 799 opening hours 669 food 377, 380, 383 highlights 724 travel within 779, telephone services 669 highlights 378-9, 382 holidays 738 799-800 travel seasons 661 holidays 442-3 internet resources 725 visas 798-9 travel to/from 670 internet resources 383 itineraries 724 Russian language 870-1 travel within 661, 670 itineraries 382 language 725, 870 865-6 language 383, 871 money 738 S Serra da Estrela 466 LGBT travellers 442 opening hours 738 Sacromonte 434 Seville 425-9, 426 money 442 telephone services 738 safety 23, 853-4, see Seyðisfjörður 198 opening hours 442 travel seasons 725 also individual Shakespeare, William 74 telephone services 443 travel to/from 739 locations Sighişoara 734-7, 735 travel seasons 383 travel within 725, 739 hitching 862-3 Sigulda 826-8, 826 travel to/from 443 870 road 862 SIM cards 854 travel within 383, 443 Romantic Rhine Valley train travel 864 Sintra 450-1 Spanish language 871 237-8, 236-7 Sagres 457-8 Sistine Chapel 501 Split 605-9, 606 Romantic Road 226-9 Salamanca 397-9, 398 Skaftafell 194, 194 St Goar 237-8 886 St Goarshausen 237-8 Switzerland 41, 47, 307, tipping 23, 849 visas 580 St Peter’s Basilica (Rome) 358-76, 308-9 Tirana 637, 640-3, 640 women travellers 581 500 accommodation 374 Tiraspol 736 872 St Petersburg 17, 787-95, activities 361 toilets 855 Turku 164-6, 165 790-1, 17 budgeting 361 Toledo 390-2, 391 Tyrol 301-5 accommodation 793 climate 361 Touraine region 338

INDEX INDEX activities 793 electricity 374 tourist information 855, drinking 794 emergencies 307 see also individual U Ukraine 42, 757-72, 672-3 entertainment 794 food 375 locations accommodation 769 S-U food 794 highlights 308-9, 360 tours, see individual  budgeting 759 nightlife 794 holidays 375 locations climate 759  sights 787-93 internet resources 361, train travel tourist information 374-5 rail passes 44, 863 food 759, 763, 769 794 itineraries 360 safety 864 highlights 758 tours 793 language 361 to/from Europe 858 holidays 769 travel to/from 794, 795 money 375 within Europe 44, 863, internet resources 759 travel within 795 opening hours 375 864 itineraries 758 Stavanger 175-6 telephone services Trakai 839-40 language 759, 872 St-Malo 335-6 307, 375 Transdniestr 736 money 769 Stockholm 146-53, 150-1, travel seasons 361 Transylvania 19, 729-37, opening hours 769 196 travel to/from 375-6 730-1, 19 telephone services 769 accommodation 147, 152 travel within 361, 376 travel to/from Europe 21, travel seasons 759 activities 147 visas 375 858-9 travel to/from 769, 772 drinking 152 synagogues travel within Europe 43-5, travel within 759, 772 859-64 food 152 Great Synagogue weather 759 travellers cheques 853 sights 146-7 (Budapest) 713 wi-fi 769 trekking, see hiking tourist information 153 Sinagoga del Tránsito Ukrainian language 872 Triberg 233 travel to/from 153 (Toledo) 390 Unesco World Heritage Trier 238-9 travel within 153 sites Tromsø 182-3 Stonehenge 68-9 Belfort (Ghent) 261 T Trondheim 180-1 Stratford-upon-Avon 74-6 Tallinn 17, 800-1, 804-10, Berat 643-4 tulips 277 Štrbské Pleso 690 804-5, 17 Bucovina monasteries Turkey 41, 47, 471, 550-82, 728 Strelka 792-3 accommodation 808 472-3 Český Krumlov 686-8 St-Tropez 353-4 activities 807-8 accommodation 578 Cinque Terre 494 665 drinking 808-9 activities 471 Diocletian’s Palace Sveti Djordje 633 entertainment 809 budgeting 553 (Split) 605-7 Sweden 40, 146-58, food 808 132-3 children, travel with 580 Ferhadija Mosque (Banja accommodation 157 nightlife 808-9 climate 553 Luka) 621 budgeting 149 sights 800-1, 804-7 consulates 578 Geirangerfjorden 179-80 climate 149 tourist information 809 drinking 553 Giant’s Causeway 126 discount cards 157 tours 807-8 electricity 578 Göreme Open-Air food 149 travel to/from 809 embassies 578 Museum 575 highlights 148 travel within 809-10 emergencies 579 Kraków Old Town 701-2 internet resources 149 tapas 380 food 553, 566, 573, 579 Kronborg Slot itineraries 148 Tara National Park 659 (Helsingør) 142 highlights 472-3, 552 language 149, 871-2 Tarifa 438-9 Kutná Hora 685 holidays 580 LGBT travellers 157 Tartu 810-13, 811 Lviv 764-8 internet resources 553 money 157 taxes 853 Nesebâr 751 itineraries 552 opening hours 157 taxis 863-4 Plitvice Lakes National language 553, 872 telephone services 157 Tbilisi 718 Park 604 LGBT travellers 579 travel seasons 149 teahouses 435 Pompeii 510-11, 512, money 579 travel to/from 157-8 telephone services 20, 854 510-11 opening hours 579 travel within 149, 157-8 terrorism 854 Rhodes Old Town 542-3 safety 578 Swedish language 871-2 teterías 435 Roskilde Domkirke 143 telephone services Schloss Schönbrunn Thames River 60-1, 60-1 579, 580 (Vienna) 290 theft 853-4 travel seasons 553 Sighişoara Old Town Theth 642 Map Pages 000 travel to/from 581 734 Ticino 373-4 Photo Pages 000 travel within 553, 581-2 Skellig Michael 117 time 20, 854-5 887 Sopoćani Monastery Venice 11, 474-86, 475, travel to/from 838 women travellers 856 (Novi Pazar) 665 480-1, 482-3, 11 travel within 838-9 work 856-7 Stari Most (Mostar) 623 accommodation 479 visas 20, 855, 856, see also Würzburg 228-9 Suomenlinna (Helsinki) discount cards 475 individual countries WWI sites 159 drinking 486 Viscri 733 In Flanders Fields 265 Surtsey 192 festivals & events 478-9 Višegrad 621 Mons 266

Vila Tugendhat (Brno) food 479-83 Vlad Ţepeş 729, 734 Somme, the 332-3 INDEX 688 sights 474-5, 478, volunteering 856 Ypres 265 Visby 155 484-5 Vrbas Canyons 620 WWII sites Würzburg Residenz -tourist information 486 Vuno 644  U 228-9 Berchtesgaden 297 tours 478 Þ universities D-Day Beaches 333 travel to/from 486 Cambridge 76 Dresden 219 travel within 486 W Oxford 72-3 Wales 82-4, 50-1 Eagle’s Nest Ventspils 829-30 (Obersalzburg) 297 Tartu University 810 walking, see hiking Versailles 328, 330-1, 25, Hitler’s Bunker (Berlin) Universidade de Coimbra Warsaw 691, 694-9, 694, 330-1 205 461 2, 770 Vestmannaeyjar 192 KZ-Gedenkstätte Dachau Vilnius University 835 water 851 Vianden 268 222 Uppsala 153 waterfalls Vienna 14, 283, 286-93, Memorium Nuremberg Gullfoss (Iceland) 191 286-7, 14 Trials 231 Rheinfall (Switzerland) accommodation 290-1 V 371 vacations 853 drinking 292-3 Skógafoss (Iceland) 193 Y vaccinations 851 food 291-2 Triberger Wasserfälle York 77-9, 78 Valais 365-6 nightlife 292-3 (Germany) 233 Ypres 265-6 Valbona 642 sights 283, 286-90 Waterloo 251 Valencia 421-4, 420-1, tourist information 293 weather 20, 27-31, see Z 422 travel to/from 293 also individual countries Zagreb 597, 600-3, 600 Varna 751-4, 752 travel within 293 websites 21, 38, 851 Žemaitija National Park 845 Vatican City 500-1 Vila Nova da Gai 467 Western Fjords 175-80 Zermatt 366 Vatican Museums 495, Vilnius 831, 834-9, 836-7 Westfjords 191 Zürich 372-3 500-1 accommodation 835-7 whirling dervishes 568 Vatnajökull National Park drinking 838 Windermere 81 (Jökulsárgljúfur) 194, entertainment 838 Windsor 67-8 Þ 195 Þingvellir National Park 191 food 837-8 wine vegetarian travellers 601 Þjóðhátíð nightlife 838 Bordeaux 345-6 Veliko Târnovo 749-51, (Vestmannaeyjar) 192 sights 831, 834-5 Champagne 339-41 750 Þórsmörk 193-4 tourist information 838 Hungary 718 Venetian glass 474 tours 835 Moldova 736 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 894

Map Legend

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Gate Walking Tour detour Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lighthouse Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/Volcano International Other Sight Oasis State/Province Park Disputed Activities, Pass Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Capital (National) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River Snorkelling Town/Village Canal Surfing Water Swimming/Pool Transport Walking Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing Border crossing Reef Other Activity Bus Cable car/Funicular Areas Sleeping Cycling Airport/Runway Sleeping Ferry Camping Metro station Beach/Desert Hut/Shelter Monorail Cemetery (Christian) Parking Eating Petrol station Cemetery (Other) Eating S-Bahn/Subway station Glacier Taxi Drinking & Nightlife T-bane/Tunnelbana station Mudflat Drinking & Nightlife Train station/Railway Park/Forest Cafe Tram Tube station Sight (Building) Entertainment U-Bahn/Underground station Sportsground Entertainment Other Transport Swamp/Mangrove Shopping Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Andrea Schulte-Peevers Germany, Austria & Benelux Born and raised in Germany and educated in London and at UCLA, Andrea has travelled the distance to the moon and back in her visits to some 75 countries. She has earned her living as a pro- fessional travel writer for over two decades and authored or contributed to nearly 100 Lonely Planet titles as well as to newspapers, magazines and websites around the world. She also works as a travel consultant, translator and editor. Andrea’s destination expertise is especially strong when it comes to Germany, Dubai and the UAE, Crete and the Caribbean Islands. She makes her home in Berlin.

Andy Symington Scandinavia, Spain & Portugal Andy has written or worked on over a hun- dred books and other updates for Lonely Planet (especially in Europe and Latin America) and other publishing companies, and has published articles on numerous subjects for a variety of newspapers, magazines and websites. He part-owns and operates a rock bar, has written a novel and is currently working on several fiction and non-fiction writing projects. Andy, from Aus- tralia, moved to northern Spain many years ago. When he’s not off with a backpack in some far-flung corner of the world, he can probably be found watching the tragically poor local foot- ball side or tasting local wines after a long walk in the nearby mountains.

Nicola Williams France & Switzerland, Plan, Survival Guide Border-hopping is a way of life for British writer, runner, foodie, art aficionado and mum-of-three Nicola Williams, who has lived in a French village on the southern side of Lake Ge- neva for more than a decade. Nicola has authored more than 50 guidebooks on Paris, Provence, Rome, Tuscany, France, Italy and Switzerland for Lonely Planet and covers France as a destination expert for the Telegraph. She also writes for the Independent, Guardian, lonelyplanet.com, Lonely Planet Magazine, French Magazine, Cool Camping France and others. Catch her on the road on Twitter and Instagram at @tripalong.

Contributing Writers & Researchers Isabel Albiston, Kate Armstrong, Alexis Averbuck, Carolyn Bain, Oliver Berry, Abigail Blasi, Greg Bloom, Cristian Bonetto, Kerry Christiani, Gregor Clark, Michael Stamatios Clark, Fionn Davenport, Sally Davies, Marc Di Duca, Belinda Dixon, Peter Dragicevich, Mark Elliott, Steve Fallon, Emilie Filou, Duncan Garwood, Anthony Ham, Paula Hardy, Damian Harper, Anita Isalska, Anna Kaminski, Catherine Le Nevez, Jessica Lee, Ali Lemer, Tom Masters, Virginia Maxwell, Craig McLachlan, Hugh McNaughtan, Isabella Noble, John Noble, Becky Ohlsen, Zora O’Neill, Lorna Parkes, Christopher Pitts, Josephine Quintero, Leonid Ragozin, Kevin Raub, Tim Richards, Daniel Robinson, Brendan Sainsbury, Tamara Sheward, Helena Smith, Regis St Louis, Mara Vorhees, Benedict Walker, Greg Ward, Richard Waters, Donna Wheeler, Neil Wilson Brana Vladisavljevic curated the Balkans chapter. AOUR beat-up old STORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

OUR WRITERS Mark Baker Central & Eastern Europe Mark Baker is a freelance travel writer with a pen- chant for offbeat stories and forgotten places. He’s originally from the United States, but now makes his home in the Czech capital, Prague. He writes mainly on Eastern and Central Europe for Lonely Planet as well as other leading travel publishers, but finds real satisfaction in digging up stories in places that are too remote or quirky for the guides. Prior to becoming an author, he worked as a journalist for the Economist, Bloomberg News and Radio Free Europe, among other organisations. Instagram: @markbakerprague Twitter: @markbakerprague Blog: www. markbakerprague.com

Korina Miller Italy, Greece & Turkey Korina grew up on Vancouver Island and has been explor- ing the globe independently since she was 16, visiting or living in 36 countries and picking up a degree in Communications and Canadian Studies, an MA in Migration Studies and a diploma in Visual Arts en route. As a writer and editor, Korina has worked on nearly 60 titles for Lonely Planet and has also worked with LP.com, BBC, the Independent, the Guardian, BBC5 and CBC, as well as many independent magazines, covering travel, art and culture. She has currently set up camp back in Victoria, soaking up the mountain views and the pounding surf.

Simon Richmond Great Britain & Ireland, Russia & the Baltic Coast Journalist and photographer Simon Richmond has specialised as a travel writer since the early 1990s and first worked for Lonely Planet in 1999 on itsCentral Asia guide. He’s long since stopped counting the number of guidebooks he’s researched and written for the company, but countries covered include Australia, China, India, Iran, Japan, Korea, Malaysia, Mongolia, Myanmar (Burma), Russia, Singapore, South Africa and Turkey. For Lonely Planet’s website he’s penned features on topics from the world’s best swimming pools to the joys of Urban Sketching – follow him on Instagram to see some of his photos and sketches.

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