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Home , Amazake, Awamori, Katsuobushi, Sake kasu, Suan cai

Deliciously rld of Ferm erful Wo ented F Wond ood the & ver Dr sco in Di Deliciously k An Illustrated Guide to the World of MicrooRganic

An Illustrated Guide

Katsuobushi Nampla Bread MicrooRganic

Makgeolli Tofuyo Coffee Sausages

Kimchi Narezushi Yogurt Cheese Pickles

Vinegar Natto books ferment & ono misa ono & Butter

by ferment books & ono misa rld of Ferm erful Wo ented F Wond ood the & ver Dr sco in Di Deliciously k MicrooRganic

by ferment books & ono misa Contents

Introduction What is Fermentation? ……………………… p 4

Chapter 1 Microorganic Foods of the World ……… p 11

Chapter 2 Microorganic Japanese Foods …………… p 65

Chapter 3 Koji is Like Gold ………………………… p 119

Chapter 4 A Look at Where Fermentation Happens p 129

Chapter 5 Fermentation: A Global Chronology … p 147

Chapter 6 Microorganic Food & Ingredients …… p 155

Chapter 7 Further Reading ………………………… p 181

References ……………………………… p 188

Index ……………………………………… p 190

About the fermentation recipes appearing in this book: Article Credits: Fermentation involves changes in food ingredients over time, but problems such as ferment books: Chapter 0, 1, 4, 5, 7 abnormal and bacterial growth are possible, depending on the fermentation environment, handling and storage conditions. If you sense that something is off, Ono Misa: Chapters 2, 3, 6 please discard it, consult a doctor, and handle at your own risk. Please also note that certain fermented foods may be unsuitable, depending on your health condition. Introduction What is Fermentation? A Quick Look at Fermentation

A range of microorganic food & can be made by microorganisms through fermentation.

Takeo Koizumi, the leading scientist in fermented food research in , describes the process of fermentation at the beginning of his book Soybeans Microbes Ferment Miso Fermentation like this:

Microorganisms such as bacteria, , mold and algae (or the “they produce) act on organic or inorganic substances to produce organic compounds such as methane, alcohol and organic acids, and also inorganic compounds such as carbon dioxide gas, hydrogen, ammonia and hydrogen sulfide, and yet the process is beneficial to humans. Grapes Microbes Ferment Wine

Wine “ “

Fermentation Fermentation

Cheese

Milk Microbes Ferment Yogurt

Miso

Yogurt

4 Introduction What is Fermentation? Introduction What is Fermentation? 5 What are microorganisms? Examples of Microbes

Microorganisms (also known as microbes) are too small to be seen with the Amino Acids

But microorganisms are living creatures just like humans.

All living things need energy to live and reproduce. To do this, they must take something in and release something else. Miso can be made when koji mold breaks down soybean to produces amino acids. Alcohol

Humans

Wine is made when breaks down the sugar in grapes to produce alcohol. Lactic Acid Lactic Lactose

Humans eat food, digest it, gain energy, and release waste as stool and urine. Lactobacillus, a type of bacteria, breaks down lactose in , producing lactic acid to make yogurt.

In other words, microorganisms break down substances,

and the process of creating something else is the basis of fermentation.

Microbes Fermentation's Big" Three":

Mold, Yeast & Bacteria

Mold Yeast Bacteria

Aspergillus, Rhizopus, Mucor, Blue Saccharomyces (Baker's yeast, wine Lactic acid bacteria (Lactobacillus), Type Microorganisms also break down some substances to get energy to create something else. Mold, White Mold, etc. yeast, sake yeast, etc.) natto bacteria, acetic acid bacteria, etc.

Size 2 to 10 µm 5 to 8 µm 0.5 to 5 µm

6 Introduction What is Fermentation? Introduction What is Fermentation? 7 But... Cultural Differences

It's also the work of microbes when food spoils. For Inuit people, kiviak (see p 64), in which auks (sea Natto is a must for some Japanese people, but to swallows) are packed inside a seal's stomach and others who have never eaten it, natto seems like the buried for to ferment, is an important microorganic soybeans have just gone bad. Spoilage Bacteria food that is delicious and healthy. But this food Milk Sour Milk culture might be surprising for Japanese people.

Fermentation & The Adventurer How distinctions between Naoki Uemura, the Japanese adventurer who Just as... encountered many world cultures, loved kiviak. fermentation spoilage Fermentation researcher Takeo Koizumi was inspired microorganisms & microbes by Uemura to become a “food adventurer“ and continues to study food from all over the world. are drawn is also influenced by cultural differences. Animals and insects can be grouped by whether they are helpful or harmful to humans... Wild or Agricultural? Helpful Harmful WILD Agricultural For example: For example:

Dogs Mosquitoes Wild Livestock organisms used in Farm-raised fish cooking include wild Agricultural crops game, fish and plants. (grains, produce)

Dogs are companions for humans... But mosquitoes cause itchy bites, and they can also cause malaria and other diseases in humans. Just as there are two categories of organism used as food for humans... Microorganisms can be... There are two types of microorganisms

Helpful Microorganisms Harmful Spoilage Natural Microbes Human-cultivated Microbes for Fermentation Microbes Some microbial activities are good for Harmful microorganisms can cause Sauerkraut Yeast spoilage and food poisoning in humans. Wild microorganisms found on cabbage leaves drive fermentation packaged as a product. Yeast for use in making beer, wine, to produce sauerkraut. and bread are sold. Vin nature Japanese Koji

Vin nature is "natural wine" that Koji () has long been is fermented without wine yeast, used to make sake and other fermented using only naturally occuring food and drink. Sometimes people call it a microbes found on grape skins. “domesticated microorganism” in Japan.

Me? “Domesticated!?”

8 Introduction What is Fermentation? Introduction What is Fermentation? 9 pt ha er C 1

Wine, beer bread, cheese, yogurt...even chocolate is fermented. Here we introduce essential fermented food and drink from food cultures around the world.

Let's explore the wonderful world of microorganic food & drink! What is Bread? ……………………………… p12 Cider & ……………………………… p44 Bread Culture ……………………………… p14 & Kuchikamizake …………………… p45 Bread Encyclopedia ……………………… p16 Chinese Alcohol …………………………… p46 World Breads: Western Europe ………… p18 World Vinegars ……………………………… p48 World Breads: Northern Europe, Sauerkraut …………………………………… p50 Eastern Europe, Russia, Kimchi………………………………………… p51 North & South America …………………… p20 World Pickles ……………………………… p52 World Breads: Africa, Middle East, Asia … p22 World Fish Sauces ………………………… p54 Cultured Milk ……………………………… p24 World Natto ………………………………… p56 Fermented Butter ………………………… p25 World Miso & Soy Sauces ………………… p58 Yogurt ……………………………………… p26 World …………………………… p59 Cheese ……………………………………… p28 Tea …………………………………………… p60 Alcohol & Humankind …………………… p30 Chocolate & Coffee ………………………… p61 Types of Alcohol …………………………… p31 Fermented Meats …………………………… p62 Fundamentals of Wine …………………… p32 Smelly Fermented Foods ………………… p64 Natural Wine ……………………………… p34 Fundamentals of Beer …………………… p36 Craft Beer …………………………………… p38 Whiskey ……………………………………… p40 Distilled Spirits of the World ……………… p42

11 Cultured Milk

What is lactic acid bacteria?

What are milk cultures? "Lactic acid bacteria" is a general term for bacteria that produce lactic acid by consuming , such as sugar. Around 400 different types of lactic acid bacteria have been found living naturally all over the world. Milk cultures can be made through fermentation of lactic From goats, sheep, cows, horses, acid bacteria, yeast, and mold. Milk Common lactic camels, yaks, and other animals. acid bacteria used in making milk cultures

Fermentation enzymes Lactobacillus Lactococcus Leuconostoc Bifidobacterium activate Yogurt O O O O Cheese O O O Lactic Acid Bacteria O O O Butter O O

Fermented Butter Cheese Milk Wine Lactic Acid Bacteria Yogurt (p28-29) (p45) Drinks p26-27 Fermented Butter

The Birth of Fermented Milk—the World's Oldest Fermented Food?! Appearing in Indian scriptures around 2000BC, butter has a long history. Butter is the content of milk extracted by churning and separating it. In the past, there was no technology to stop the fermentation of milk, and so fermented butter was the only kind available. Now that such technology exists, Fermented milk is thought to have been created by the chance mixing It's easy to make non-fermented butter has since become the norm in Japan today. nourishing fermented of microorganisms with expressed milk. Human cattle breeding began milk. Fermented Butter Around the World in 10000BCE–8000BCE. Could it have existed since then? Fermentation in Ancient History Makhan (India) Traditionally, makhan refers to the butter obtained by churning dahi (yogurt) Europe made by heating and fermenting raw milk. 5500BCE Relics relating to cheesemaking from around 5500BCE Fermented butter is still have been found in Poland. mainstream even today.

Cheese and other manufacturing methods are drawn on 4000BCE~ The liquid is buttermilk, The buttermilk is heated Ancient Egyptian murals around 4000BCE. made from milk such as cow, goat, 3000BCE Churning dahi separates the liquid which was originally what again and the solid part sheep and buffalo. from the solid parts. lassi were made from. leftover is called paneer. Yak Butter (Bhutan) 3000BC~ Even in India, a song singing the praises of cheese Emperor Kotoku Made from fermented cow or yak 2000BCE appeared in the "Baedal Anthems" around 3000BCE. (Reigned 645~654CE) So many different milk milk, this is a key ingredient in A description of a butter-like dish was recorded in an In Japan, around 645CE, Ambassador Zena from cultures can be made by butter tea, a Bhutanese favorite.. fermenting milk. Similar Indian scripture around 2000BCE. the Baekje kingdoms, introduced milk, dairy, and Su ▲ (yogurt and cheese-like, respectively) to Emperor uses are found all over Try making your own The solids are a fermented Heating makhan to clarify 36BCE Cheesemaking was an important industry in the Roman Kotoku, which marks the beginning of fermented the world! fermented butter! butter called makhan. it makes ghee. milk culture in Japan. (See "Sour Cream" on p158.)

24 Chapter 1 Microorganic Foods of the World Chapter 1 Microorganic Foods of the World 25 pt ha er C 2

Japanese Microorganic Foods

Japan is a major producer of microorganic foods,

Sake (Japanese wine) ………………………… p66 ………………………………… p111

Sake kasu (sake lee) ………………………………… p70 Tofuyo () …………………… p112

Shochu ……………………………………………… p72 ……………………… p114

Awamori ……………………………………………… p76 Goishicha …………………………………………… p116

Akumochi-zake ……………………………………… p78 Kanzuri ……………………………………………… p118

Doburoku …………………………………………… p80

Mirin ………………………………………………… p82

Vinegar ……………………………………………… p86

Miso ………………………………………………… p90

Soy Sauce …………………………………………… p92

Fish Sauce …………………………………………… p95

Shio Koji (salt koji) ………………………………… p96

Amazake …………………………………………… p98

Natto ………………………………………………… p100

Tsukemono (pickles) ………………………………… p102

………………… p106

Narezushi …………………………………………… p108

65 Sake: " Nihon-shu" Step 2 Once the koji has been prepared the next step is to make A Moto-Making Work Song ♪ There are many different ethnic groups in the world, and many of them have brewed Making shubo, which is the starter for sake . The Japanese alcoholic beverages that are unique to their particular culture. For example, Japan characters for “shubo” literally mean “mother of sake.” has been brewing an alcoholic beverage called “Nihon-shu,” through trial and error, Shubo Attempting to brew sake by simply placing a bunch of Torori torori to since primitive times. Nihon-shu, better known outside of Japan as “sake,” has koji, steamed rice, and water in a large tank might result ima suru moto wa in unwanted bacteria growth, which is very unlikely to sake ni tsukurite Edo e dasu. sake is a product of “the ingenuity of Japanese people, both present and past.” to shubo making. This will help produce shubo that is packed with lactic acid and yeast, leaving no room for unwanted bacterial growth. Shubo is also Steaming Three Steps of Sake Brewing called “moto” and has two main types:“kimoto” (yamahai yeast starter) and “sokujomoto” (quick- fermenting starter). into three main steps: 1) producing koji (koji-kin with added rice); 2) producing shubo/moto (yeast starter); and Making Kimoto & Yamahai Making Koji 3) producing moromi (the main fermenting mash). The best conditions to make kimoto and yamahai under are cold With so few ingredients, each brewery uses many inventive ideas and techniques to achieve their unique temperatures, like those on winter mornings. Workers pour cold water and koji into a small tub called a “hangiri” and stir, then add cool steamed rice Making Shubo and stir again. When the koji and steamed rice have absorbed enough Step 1 liquid, workers will begin to mash the koji and steamed rice using kai (a The rice used in brewing sake, called “shuzo koteki mai,” is slightly different from that stirring pole resembling a paddle) while singing work songs. Making Moromi Making used in cooking. The grains are larger and an opaque white part – called “shinpaku” – The thick, thick (Fermentation) moto we make now Koji is visible at the center of each grain. The more “shinpaku” in the grain, the purer the During mashing, koji enzymes convert rice starch into glucose. The glucose will make the sake of the sake. So the rice grains are polished to remove their exterior while leaving draws out the natural lactic acid bacteria and yeast that lives in the brewery we send to Edo. as much of the actual shinpaku in the grain as possible. and this is how the complex taste of sake is produced. The work song Joso (Pressing) energizes the workers, serves a timer, and sets the rhythm so the speed at The more polished the rice, the smaller the grain becomes, so controlling temperature and humidity which the kai stirs the mixture can be adjusted. This mashing (motosuri) is Making Sokujomoto when steaming and producing koji becomes a more sensitive task. There are differences depending on popularly called “yamaoroshi.” the brewery of course. Some use unmilled rice while others use cooking rice in their brewing process. For sokujomotozukuri, begin by making moto. Pour koji, steamed rice and water into a small shubo-making tank. Then, Filtration Adding some finished motosuri mixture to a larger tub and gradually Koji for sake making is divided into two types: “sohaze type” (used to make Junmai-shu), in which the raising the temperature using a hot water bottle called a “dakidaru” will takes about fourteen days to produce the moto. This method koji-kin spores germinate and hyphae covers the surface of each grain, and “tsukihaze type” (used to stimulate the koji and promote growth, which increases the sweetness of produces low alcohol and no unwanted bacteria, but has make Daiginjo-shu) in which the koji-kin spores sporadically germinate on the rice grain surface and its Pasteurization strong acidity and a well-balanced taste. Recently, making hyphae actually penetrates the grain. Each brewery uses different “haze” methods to control the growth acid, there will also be an abundant supply of glucose and a comfortable sokujomoto has become a popular method for brewing sake. of koji-kin hyphae on the grain depending on the type of sake they wish to produce. temperature. This is an ideal environment for yeast to do its work, actively Some breweries blend kimoto and sokujomoto. They also turning glucose into alcohol and carbon dioxide. Bubbling, caused by Maturation Traditionally, “kikoji” is the most 100% 90% ~60% carbon dioxide from the active yeast, is called “wakitsuki.” popular koji-kin in sake brewing. Most of the added yeast is called “Kyokai Yeast” and is distributed by the Japan Brewing Association. The taste of the Although, it should be noted that About three days after the mixture has reached the “wakitsuki” stage, “shirokoji” and “kurokoji” – used to sweetness will decrease and the acidity and spiciness of the alcohol will Adding Alcohol make Shochu and respectively increase. Once the shubo has matured, the preparation is complete. On – have recently begun to be used in sake unmilled rice cooking rice sake-brewing average, it takes about a month to finish making shubo. Sake brewed prefer to use their original yeast to brew sake. brewing. rice from shubo – produced by the yamaoroshi mashing process – is labeled as “kimotozukuri” and it has a full-bodied, prominently acidic taste. Bottling / Shipping

As the koji works hard turning rice starch 2 Now, yeast (which are resistant 4 Temperatures rise inside the dakidaru 5 The toxic effects of the lactic acid 1into glucose, sweet-toothed bacteria begin mind the cold – appears and happily consumes 3to cold) and acid are produced. (a wooden or stainless-steel container filled doubles as temperatures rise. These bacteria, to activate, though most cannot because glucose-producing lactic acid in the exchange. Yeast actually consumes glucose with hot water). Stirring introduces air which conditions are not warm enough yet. Conditions where lactic acid is highly active faster than lactic acid bacteria makes things nicer for the yeast, which one after another, as stirring r: In prevent harmful bacteria from flourishing. loves warm temperatures introduces more and more i-theate side Shu does! Sadly, our lactic acid in id Bacter bo and lots of air. However, a air. The yeast is winning! M tic Ac ia Tra bacteria will suffer a tragic fate Lac ge A dy whereby their own acid product further tragedy awaits the condition is that! What a starts to weaken them! lactic acid bacteria... dramatic, tragic fall for the lactic acid!

66 Chapter 2 Japanese Fermented Foods Chapter 2 Japanese Fermented Foods 67 Akumochi-zake How to Make “Sake-zushi”

1 Season all ingredients prior to cooking and set aside. before cooking), cloud ear mushrooms, edible wild plants, mitsuba (Japanese parsley), kinshi-tamago (very thin omelets What is Akumochi-zake? History of Akumochi-zake cut into very narrow strips)and .

The Engishiki (“Procedures of the Engi Era”), compiled in 927, during of the sake and deactivates the bacteria that are still present from the and seventy-five percent. Akazake produced in Kumamoto Prefecture fermentation phase. This pasteurized sake is called “Himochizake.” uses rice whose polish rate ranges from eighty-five to ninety percent, Before the invention of the refrigerator, charcoal was added to sake to which is actually close to regular cooking rice. Refined sake uses ten- wooden charcoal, called Kusaki, to the moromi of Shiroki.” From this koku* rice and ten-koku water which is expressed colloquially as “to this method is called “Akumochi-zake” and it was the predominant sake and Kuroki is Akumochi-zake. than Himochizake. more rice than water, resulting in a sake that is so sweet you don’t need any with it. *one koku = about 180 liters 2 Pour generous amounts of seasoned Akumochi-zake over cooked rice and the Refined Sake Akazake ingredients listed above, which have 50~75% 85~90% been set aside in a separate bowl.

3 Layer the rice and the ingredients above alternately in a container. Put a lid on the container and press with a Major Akumochi-zake Types What Kind of Charcoal is Used? How to enjoy Akumochi-zake

▽ Kumamoto Prefecture……Akazake Akumochizake uses food-grade charcoal that is specially made from (for drinking & cooking) white cedar and camellia. Long ago, a famous charcoal maker named overnight in Akumochi-zake, or in equal parts Akumochizake and Kurobe Haiya produced charcoal medicine that was said to be effective

at enhancing sake’s power and taste, eliminating bad illnesses, and ▽ Kagoshima Prefecture……Jizake (micro-brewery sake) supporting mental health. cooking sake). Since charcoal has been added, the composition of the Akumochi-zake changes from acidic to slightly alkaline. This means Akumochi-zake will have a lustrous look. This is a well-known fact 4 After removing the weight and the lid, put some among chefs all around Japan. seafood and kinshi-tamago on top. Serve with Akumochi-

▽ zake from a tokkuri (sake bottle). Add Akumochi-zake if you which is eaten after pouring locally-brewed Akumochi-zake over it. prefer your sake-zushi to be stronger.

78 Chapter 2 Japanese Fermented Foods Chapter 2 Japanese Fermented Foods 79 Miso

Types of Miso has been a staple in Japanese dining since ancient times, though fewer Japanese people actually keep it in their refrigerators at home thank you Kome-miso (Rice Miso) miso soup that makes you feel at ease when you drink it. Miso is a superb soup that warms your body, conditions your stomach and helps you purge toxins and Kome-miso is made by mixing soybeans, kome-koji (rice malt), and salt and then allowing the mixture to ferment. Eighty percent of the miso produced in Japan chemicals from your body. Even a hangover can be alleviated by drinking miso is kome-miso. There are many types of kome-miso that differ based on color ( soup the following morning because miso helps you quickly excrete the alcohol cream colored shiro-miso, pale brown, or brown) and taste (sweet or salty). The from your system. When you purchase miso, it is recommended that you pick live length of time the miso is aged, whether the soybeans are steamed or cooked, and the amount of koji used determines the color. The mixing ratio of koji, miso, which has small holes in the packaging, even though it requires refrigeration. miso will be. Shiro-miso uses a greater amount of kome-koji than soybeans, so it produces a sweeter taste and needs only a short aging period.

Mugi-miso (Barley Miso) Mame-miso (Soybean Miso) Chogo-miso (Blended Miso)

Mugi-miso is made by fermenting soybeans Mame-miso is made by fermenting soybeans, Chogo-miso is made by blending kome-miso, with barley and salt. Since this type of miso mugi-miso, or mame-miso. Or, by blending was originally made as a staple by farmers, aka-miso, hatcho-miso, or tamari-miso. Steam koji – kome-koji or mugi-koji. History of Miso Benefits of Miso it is also called “inaka-miso” (“countryside soybeans to make miso-dama (balled soybean mash) and drench miso-dama with starter koji somewhat sentimental feeling to anyone who Miso is thought to have originated either in Japan, or to have been Miso has always been a valuable source of protein in the Japanese to ferment. Mame-miso is dark red and has a brought in from China or Korea. The theory of Japanese origin comes diet. Since fermented miso is rich in essential amino acids, , from the discovery of “Jomon miso,” which was made from acorns and minerals that make up proteins, it has truly been a great during the Jomon period (14,000 – 300 BCE). This is considered to nutritional support for the Japanese people. Also, there is a theory be the root of native miso production. On the other hand, the theory that miso helps to prevent cancer and hypertension. by which miso was brought in from elsewhere says that ancient Unique Miso (a fermented soybean and salt mixture) were brought to Japan from of the heart and spinal cord. The pigment component that makes Mainland China and the Korean Peninsula, and that became the miso up miso’s brown color is an , so it is also thought it helps we know. prevent the body from aging. Sotetsu-miso (Sago Palm Seed Miso) The name miso appears in the Taiho Ritsuryo (Taiho Code), published There is about 1.4 g of sodium per bowl of miso soup, which means Tamatsukuri-miso in Taiho gannen (701CE), as the word,“misho,” meaning “a solid mass that it does not exceed the recommended daily salt intake. Most Usually, miso is made by adding salt and kome-koji to cooked soybeans. Sotetsu-miso is produced on the island of Amami Oshima in Kagoshima that is one step from becoming soy sauce.” people recommend drinking one bowl a day, being sure to add plenty When making tamatsukuri-miso however, boiled (or steamed) soybeans of vegetables and seaweed. are mashed to make miso-dama (balled soybean mash) and then allowed palm seeds, brown rice, soybeans, and sweet potatoes. The seeds of the That is why it has been said to rest in the muro (cellar). Then, living in the muro are allowed sago palm contain toxic substances that must be removed by soaking that the word miso is derived to attach to the surface of the miso-dama. There are of course different them in water and then sun-drying in order to let microorganisms in from misho. According to the methods for sprinkling the surface of the miso-dama with koji-kin to make the air detoxify them. (The seeds can also be buried underground in Engishiki (“Procedures of the order to let microorganisms in the soil detoxify them). Sotetsu-koji (sago Engi Era”), the salaries of senior with a rope and hung from the ceiling. After that, kome-koji is mixed with palm seed malt) is made by fermenting the detoxed sago palm seeds bureaucrats in the Heian period salt and age to mature as usual. The complex taste – unlike regular miso and brown rice with koji-kin. Then, soybeans, sweet potatoes, and salt (794 – 1192CE) were paid with – that results is produced by the various fungi. are added and stored miso, and/or , in a jar. The mixture instead of money. Back then, miso ferments and ages due must has been quite the luxury to sodium- tolerant yeast item! However, after a couple of and lactic acid bacteria. centuries, miso soup was finally The result is a totally non- introduced into commoners’ toxic, uniquely flavored lives in the Muromachi period (1336 – 1573CE). Andansu cooked with sotetsu-miso and is considered to be the best to have with tea.

90 Chapter 2 Japanese Fermented Foods Chapter 2 Japanese Fermented Foods 91 pt ha er C 3

Koji is Like Gold

Koji is the key microorganic ingredient in Japanese fermented foods. From Japanese sake (Nihon-shu) to miso and soy sauce, koji is the symbol of Japan's fermentation culture. ▲ …………………………………… p120

………………………… P121

P122

………………………… P122

……………………… P123

…… P124 ▲ ………………………………… p125

119 Koji: A Profile

Most of the fermented foods produced in Japan use the power of microorganisms such as koji-kin, lactic acid bacteria, yeast, acetic acid bacteria, and natto bacteria. Among them, koji-kin is the most used. The Brewing Society of Japan acknowledges koji as a “kokukin“, which means “National Microbe.” Why is koji so important in Japan? The Koji more you know about koji, the more you will be convinced of the wonder of these koji microorganisms. Aspergillus oryzae Aspergillus soya ojae ℃ Aspergillus glaucus Aspergillus luchuensis mut.

kawachiiAspergillus luchuensis Aspergillus luchuensisMonascus purpureus Grains: Nutrition:

Pesticide-free ina-koji is often attached to rice plants

White pasty autochthonous bacteria

120 Chapter 3 Koji is a Treasure Chapter 3 Koji is a Treasure 121 pt ha er C 4 A Look at Where Fermentation Happens

In this chapter, we'll take a look at real-world fermentation by meeting leading creators and producers and seeing where they work. We'll also visit the facilities where miso, beer, wine and nam pla are produced and sold.

Making Koshu Miso from Koji to Finish …………………… p130

Brewing Beer at a Pioneering Craft Brewery ……………… p135

A Small Family Winery in a Major Wine Region ………… p140

A Small Nam Pla Brewery in Thailand ……………………… p144

Meeting Russian Distillers at a Vladivostok Market ………p146

129 pt ha er C 5 Fermentation: A Global Chronology

Billions of years after the birth of microorganisms, the main agents of fermentation, humans appeared on Earth. Humans developed ▲ Before humans ~ BCE ………………………… p148

The Birth of Microorganisms / Ancient Breads, Cheeses & … p149 ▲ 1st ~ 16th Centuries …………………………… p150

Qimin Yaoshu / Koji-za & the Bunan Koji Riot / Reinheitsgebot /

Prohibition ………………………………………………………………… p151 ▲ 17th Century ~ Present ………………………… p152

Discovery of Microorganisms / Spontaneous Generation Controversy /

Homebreweing / Fermentation Boom ………………………………… p153

How Monsieur Appert's Bottling & Canning

Changed the World's Dining Tables …………… p154

147 pt ha er C 6 Microorganic Food & Ingredients

Fermentation is often thought of as something that only specialist brewers and distillers can do, but there are many things you can easily make at home. This chapter offers a collection of delicious fermented food recipes.

Amazake Yeast Bread …………………… p156 Sour Cream / Fermented Butter ……… p158 Pickles …………………………………… p159 Sauerkraut ………………………………… p160 Water Kimchi ……………………………… p162 Suan Cai …………………………………… p163 Miso ……………………………………… p164 Plum Miso ………………………………… p166 Amazake ………………………………… p168 Miki ………………………………………… p171 Persimmon Vinegar ……………………… p172 Fermented Syrup ………………………… p174 Shibazuke Pickles ………………………… p176 Sansakuzuke Pickles ……………………… p177 Apple Cider ……………………………… p178 Salt Pork …………………………………… p180

155 pt ha er C 7 Further Reading

Read more about the various cultures, traditions, cuisines, science and history of fermentation.

Fermentation Knowledge ……………… p182

Sake (Nihon-shu)・Wine・Spirits of the World ... p183

Beer・Bread・Miso・Soy Sauce ………… p184

Natto・ (pickles)・Fish Sauce・ Narezushi・Gastronomy ………………… p185

Koji・The Story of Fermentation ……… p186

Further Issues with Fermentation to Consider ... p187

181