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BENIN 89 © Lonely Planet Publications Mud Fortresses Built Tata Somba, 229 % © Lonely Planet Publications 89 Benin BENIN If you’re heading to West Africa to unearth lost treasure, look no further than Benin. This club-shaped country, on the western edge of Nigeria, was once one of the most power- ful empires in Africa – the Dahomey kingdom. The ruins of the Dahomeyans’ palaces and temples can be seen in Abomey, while Ouidah is a poignant reminder of where their riches came from: the slave trade. The Route d’Esclaves in Ouidah was the last walk on African soil for slaves bound for Brazil and the Caribbean. Museums here and in Porto Novo, Benin’s lagoon-side capital, examine the resultant Afro-Brazilian society and culture. But regardless of the ill-gotten Dahomeyan gains glittering in the Musée Historique d’Abomey, there are plenty of treasures on Benin’s dusty streets and palm-fringed beaches. This is the birthplace of voodoo, the country’s national religion, exported by the slaves and distorted by Hollywood. Voodoo is an important part of everyday life and most towns bear signs of it, such as the fetish markets stocked with the heads and skins of every animal imaginable. Elephants, lions and crocodiles can be seen in more animated form in the northern wildlife parks, Pendjari and W, two of the best in West Africa. Then there are the stilt villages, home to thousands in the southern lagoons, and the northern tata somba, mud fortresses built by the insular Somba people. Not only is Benin a richly historical and cultural country, this politically stable nation is one of the most tourist-friendly parts of West Africa. FAST FACTS Area 112,622 sq km Capital Porto Novo Country code %229 Famous for Voodoo; slavery; the Kings of Dahomey; adopting Marxism; Angélique Kidjo Languages French, Fon, Yoruba, Dendi, Bariba and Ge Money West African CFA franc; US$1 = CFA544.89; €1 = CFA655.96 Population 7.4 million Visa CFA10,000 at border, 30-day extension CFA12,000 Benin 90 BENIN •• Highlights www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com BENIN •• History 91 HIGHLIGHTS 0 100 km part of French West Africa (see p103 ). Dur- BENIN HOW MUCH? BENIN 0 60 miles Ghézo’s throne ( p110 ) Shiver in front of ing the 70-year colonial period, progress was NIGER this throne mounted on human skulls, Niger made in education, and many Dahomeyans BENIN Traveller’s fetish CFA3000 Parc one of the dark relics from the slave- Mashed yam CFA200 BURKINA Regional were employed as government advisers in trading Dahomey kingdom in Abomey. FASO du W Karimama Gaya French West Africa. The country’s intel- Appliqué hat CFA1500 Malanville Route des Esclaves ( p106 ) Retrace the last Ri lectual nature led the French to nickname Sampéto ver steps of millions of slaves to the Point of Zemi-john CFA100 Alfa Kouara it ‘the West African Latin Quarter’. ver Parc National i TindangouὈὈὈR No Return memorial in Ouidah. National park entry CFA10000 de la Pendjari Banikoara Fetish market ( p93 ) Shop for essential voo- Kandi Independence & Le Folklore Porga Pendjari Ségbana doo items such as monkey testicles and LONELY PLANET INDEX Tanougou When Dahomey became independent in bat wings. Falls 1960, Hubert Maga was elected the coun- Tanguiéta Stilt villages ( p102 ) Where tens of thou- 1L of petrol CFA300-600 try’s first president. Almost immediately, Boukoumbé 1L of bottled water CFA500 Atakora Mountains sands of people go about their daily Natitingou other former French colonies started de- business 2m above the surface of Lake ὈMt Kossou- porting their Dahomeyan populations. Bottle of La Béninoise CFA250 Nadoba Kovangou (589m) Nokoué. Souvenir T-shirt CFA2000 Ndali Nikki Back home without work, they were the Malanville market ( p120 ) Watch the no- Kémérida Djougou root of a highly unstable political situation. madic Fula traders drift into town, pro- Yam chips CFA100 Kétao Three years after independence, having Kara duce piled on their heads, in the arid far Papatia Parakou seen how easily some disgruntled soldiers north of the country. NIGERIA in neighbouring Togo had staged a coup, River CLIMATE & WHEN TO GO é the military did the same in Dahomey. Bassila m ITINERARIES In southern Benin, there are two rainy sea- TOGO During the next decade, Dahomey One Week A classic example of urban Africa sons: April to mid-July, and mid-September Oué saw four more military coups, nine more Cotonou ( p95 ) is worth a brief look, but the to late October. The rains in the north fall changes of government and five changes of other southern cities have more charm. from June to early October. In the north Savalou Savé constitution: what the Dahomeyans called Porto Novo ( p103 ), the tranquil capital, and temperatures can reach 46°C, while the in jest le folklore. Dassa Oyo Ganvié ( p102 ) the lacustrine stilt village, are coastal south is cooler, with temperatures Zoumé both within two hours taxi journey of Coto- ranging from 18°C to 35°C. Harmattan Atakpamé Revolution Ibadan nou. A little further along the country’s winds billow out of the Sahara between Abomey In 1972 a group of officers led by Lieuten- two main roads are a couple of must-sees December and March, and the hottest time Bohicon ant Colonel Mathieu Kérékou seized power Tohoun that ooze a sense of culture and history: of the year is from February to April. The Pobé in a coup that initiated almost two decades Abomey ( p110 ), home to the ruined pal- coolest, driest time to visit is between No- Lokossa Bopa of military dictatorship. The country then PORTO aces of the Kings of Dahomey, and Ouidah vember and February. Possotomè Lake Ganvié NOVO Lagos took a sharp turn to the left as he embraced Hila- Ahémè ( p106 ) once a capital of the slave trade and Parts of the northern Atakora region Condji Ouidah Badagary Marxist-Leninist ideology and aligned the LOMÉ Grand Abomey- Cotonou Kraké now the centre of voodoo worship. occasionally receive heavy rainfall, and Popo Calavi country with superpowers like China, the Two Weeks Relax after all that sightseeing smaller roads throughout Benin may be Soviet Union and North Korea. To em- with a few days of lounging on the empty impassable during the rainy seasons; not- G u l f o f G u i n e a phasise the break from the past, Kérékou beaches at Grand Popo ( p108 ). This ele- ably those in the wildlife parks, particularly changed the country’s flag and renamed it gantly decaying beach resort is a handy Parc Regional du W. Benin. He informed his people by radio on base for excursions to the peaceful fish- established trading posts along the coast, 13 November 1975, a date still etched into ing villages around Lake Ahémè ( p109 ). In- HISTORY most notably at Porto Novo and Ouidah. the memories of most Beninese. land, the stand-out towns are Natitingou More than 350 years ago, the area now The Portuguese, French, Dutch and Eng- The government established the schools it ( p116 ), gateway to the intriguing forti- known as Benin was split into numerous lish, whose forts can still be seen in Ouidah, required to teach Marxism, along with col- fied compounds in Somba country, and principalities. One of the chiefs quarrelled spelled the town’s name four different ways lective farms, state enterprises, a central trade Malanville ( p120 ), where the weekly mar- with his brother for the right to succes- but pronounced it the same. union, and a more militant spirit in the army. ket draws Fula nomads from the neigh- sion and, around 1625, settled in Abomey. The Dahomeyan Kings grew rich by sell- However, the revolution was always more bouring countries. He then conquered the neighbouring king- ing slaves to traders, who then gave them the rhetorical than real. The economy fell into a One Month With this much time on your dom of the Dan, which became known as guns that let them pillage their neighbours shambles: inflation and unemployment rose, hands, you should be able to delve into Dan-Homey, meaning ‘in Dan’s belly’ (see for slaves and land. For more than a century, salaries remained unpaid for months. People every corner of this small country. In add- p112 ). The name was later shortened by the an average of 10,000 slaves per year were soon tired of living in West Africa’s answer ition to the above, linger in Somba country French colonisers. shipped to the Americas (primarily Brazil to Eastern Europe, and there were ethnic ten- and stay with a family in their compound, Each king pledged to leave his successor and the Caribbean, in particular Haiti), tak- sions between the president, a Natitingou- then explore the two wildlife parks, Pend- more land than he inherited, a pledge kept ing voodoo with them. As a result southern born northerner, and the Yoruba population jari ( p118 ) and W ( p120 ). Parakou ( p113 ) by waging war with his neighbours, par- Dahomey was dubbed the Slave Coast. in the south. There were six attempted coups and Djougou ( p115 ) are pleasantly sleepy ticularly the Yoruba of Nigeria. Meanwhile, Early in the 19th century, the French col- in one year alone. Then in the late 1980s, towns to while away a few days. the Portuguese, and later other Europeans, onised the kingdom of Dahomey, making it workers and students went on strike. 92 BENIN •• The Culture www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com BENIN •• Religion 93 In December 1989, as a condition of bate. It’s not unusual to see people engrossed Beninese men working in Europe. Young the northwest, around the Atakora moun- BENIN French financial support, Kérékou ditched in a book or one of the country’s papers.
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