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BeautyCARE HOT CATEGORIES

LIPS , treatments plump up sales It is 11 a.m. on a Thursday at the new NYX store in Willowbrook Mall Lip cosmetic sales in N.J., and already shoppers are congregating near the expansive lip SEGMENT SALES* % SALES CHG SHARE collection. Called The Lip Bar, the fixture sports almost 700 colors. $626.8 12.7% 73.5% The bustling lip area proves there is mounting interest in the lip color 155.1 -3.8 18.2 category — and not just light glosses that have dominated sales for the past few years. 63.6 15.9 7.5 NYX isn’t the only brand enjoying swelling sales. Milani and online Lip treatment 4.2 45.2 0.5 sensation ColourPop have benefitted from the dramatic lips made fa- Lip combo 3.0 38.4 0.4 mous by the Kardashian/Jenner women and others. And and TOTAL $852.6 9.7% 100.0% L’Oréal are among the lines posting high sin- * In millions gle-digit gains with color options with dramatic Source: IRI for the 52 weeks ended Feb. 21, Total U.S. Multi-Outlet (supermarkets, drug stores, color payoffs. mass market retailers, military commissaries and select club and dollar retail chains) Of note, lipsticks soared 10% in the drug chan- intense color payoff, such as Revlon Super Lustrous, Revlon ColorStay nel (almost 13% in all mass doors), while gloss Overtime and L’Oréal Infallible. declined about 4% for drug and mass doors com- To maintain momentum, retailers and manufacturers have big plans bined. That’s a reversal from past years when for lips. As part of its reinvigoration of Nuance by Salma Hayek, CVS glosses generated bigger gains. Lip treatments has a new True Color Plumping Liquid Lipstick. Ingredients include also are tearing up the sales chart, perhaps as green tea extract and mint, which leave lips more hydrated. women pay more attention to their lips so they Straight off the recent New York Fashion Week runway trends, May- look better with dramatic color applied. Treat- belline is planning to introduce a black lipstick as part of the company’s ment sales jumped more than 40% in all measures. upcoming line of Color Sensational Loaded Bolds, a collection of lip- The NYX Lip Bar The brands on buyers’ lips include those with sticks in strong colors, according to Allure. BROWS Shaping a movement: Dramatic, tamed brows trending Despite the new emphasis on lips, eyebrows are still raising sales, es- Eye cosmetic sales pecially as more brow taming products hit the mass market. To wit, eye- SEGMENT SALES* % SALES CHG SHARE brow makeup sales rocketed 50% for the most recent 52-week period, ac- Mascara $941.5 -0.8% 44.5% cording to IRI. In comparison, the eye category as a whole was held to low 617.5 2.5 29.2 single-digit increases. What’s behind the wildfire growth is a movement for dramatic, yet 324.5 3.6 15.3 tamed brows. The trend was ignited by such specialists as Anastasia Eye brow makeup 185.8 53.0 8.8 Soare, who introduced the concept of brow shap- Eye combo 45.8 5.7 2.2 ing to salons in the United States, as well as celebs TOTAL $2,115.1 4.2% 100.0% sporting the “eye brows on fleek” revolution. * In millions Women took to social media — especially Insta- Source: IRI for the 52 weeks ended Feb. 21, Total U.S. Multi-Outlet (supermarkets, drug stores, gram — to show off well-manicured brows. mass market retailers, military commissaries and select club and dollar retail chains) Now shoppers don’t have to go to a specialty Pomade; e.l.f. Studio Eyebrow Kit; and ’s Brow Drama. In store or online to get brow grooming needs. particular, the Maybelline Brow Drama is getting a big push from on- That’s created sales of a whole new area within shelf presentation in chains, such as Rite Aid, and a major television eye. Among the products getting attention are Ar- presence. Also just hitting shelves is the Milani Easybrow Tinted Fiber dell’s assortment of grooming kits, brow shapers, Gel, which applies to brows much like a mascara. pencils and brow defining powders; L.A. Color’s Compounding the importance of the brow segment is the fact that it Maybelline brow makeup Perfect Brow Palette; NYX Eyebrow Powder and is incremental business and a companion sale to liners and mascaras.

46 • APRIL 2016 DRUGSTORENEWS.COM BeautyCARE HOT CATEGORIES

NAILS Retailers note spike in artificial nail sales Perhaps women are fatiguing of gels, or just want instant access to Nail product sales the coffin-shaped nails made popular by celebrities. Whatever the rea- SEGMENT SALES* % SALES CHG SHARE son, retailers are seeing a spike in sales of . $758.9 -6.1% 47.4% The category is up 10% in drug and 13% in multi-outlets. Nail accessories/implements 289.7 9.6 18.1 Kiss Products has been on top of new shapes and introduced an oval choice in its imPRESS lineup. Kiss also debuted new French Nail treatment 250.4 4.9 15.6 nails for women who want that look in an artificial version. Walmart Artificial nails and accessories 187.0 13.7 11.7 also offers a natural French nail from Nailene, and Rite Aid’s expan- Nail polish removers 116.1 -0.3 7.2 sive nail assortment includes Revlon Color Allure nails. Nail polish accessories 0.5 -47.1 0.0 Interest in is expected to continue to fuel fake TOTAL $1,602.7 0.6% 100.0% nail options. * In millions The overall nail category can use the lift. In total, nail Source: IRI for the 52 weeks ended Feb. 21, Total U.S. Multi-Outlet (supermarkets, drug stores, is down only slightly, but nail color is still in the mass market retailers, military commissaries and select club and dollar retail chains) with sales in drug stores down almost 6% for the 52 There also are new colors coming from Sally Hansen, including some weeks ended Feb. 21, according to IRI. tricks to create unique nail designs. Retailers are keeping an eye on the There are a few new items retailers hope will re-ener- delicate balance of traditional colors and the new gels. One concern is gize the category, including new celebrity-backed offers whether or not the proliferation of new gels will confuse customers and Nailene from SinfulColors — three from social media phenome- cut sales. For some chains, the goal to building new color lies with such French Express non Kylie Jenner. The next collection is expected to fea- exclusive nail products as Target’s Defy & Inspire, CVS’ Pop-arazzi and Press-On Nails ture textured polishes. Rite Aid’s JulieG. HAIR Farm to shower: Natural options dominate shelves Although sales increases in hair care are not as dynamic as some oth- and conditioner sales er categories, retailers are enthused about the caliber of launches hitting SEGMENT SALES* % SALES CHG SHARE shelves. Among those they are hoping will shake up sales are ’s Regular shampoo $2,194.1 0.9% 76.2% Whole Blends — nurturing formulas concocted to return health to hair Dandruff shampoo 543.8 3.6 18.9 — and TRESemmé’s new Beauty Full Volume. L’Oréal’s U.S. CEO Jean-Paul Agon recently singled Whole Blends Shampoo/conditioner combo pack 140.4 61.3 4.9 out during an analyst meeting. “Natural, organic hair care — this is TOTAL SHAMPOO $2,878.3 3.3% 100.0% TOTAL CONDITIONER/ something that apparently everywhere is growing,” he said, adding the $2,048.0 1.5% 100.0% CREME RINSE company was responding with a natural line. The TRESemmé introduction is the first reverse * In millions Source: IRI for the 52 weeks ended Feb. 21, Total U.S. Multi-Outlet (supermarkets, drug stores, system in which the conditioner goes on before the mass market retailers, military commissaries and select club and dollar retail chains) shampoo. It is promoted by Chrissy Teigen. Beauty editors have been burning up social media prais- “We added this to have something to cater to the growing desire to ing the results from the reverse process. address damaged hair,” said Daniel Langer, SVP and general manager Also out of the gates fast is Henkel’s Schwarz- of Henkel Beauty Care North America. Schwarzkopf also is launching a kopf Ultîme hair care collection. The brand kicked new styling collection, Styliste Ultîme Amino-Q Hold, which includes a off last year in Walmart as an exclusive, and now , a mousse and a gel — all priced at $7.99. is rolling out nationally. To sweeten the offer, The national rollout is just the beginning for the company, which Schwarzkopf is adding a new line of products for has a goal to gain a bigger footprint in the U.S. hair market. The brand dry and damaged hair called Essence Ultîme Am- is nationally known, with plans to duplicate success in American Garnier’s Whole Blends ber + Oil Nutrition. mass doors.

48 • APRIL 2016 DRUGSTORENEWS.COM BeautyCARE HOT CONCEPTS

TRENDS SPRAY-ON NAIL POLISH CONTOUR KITS HIT THE MASS MARKET Can a new delivery system erase the 7% decline in nail polish color, as Last year, mass marketers tracked by IRI? The beauty world is about to find out. There are currently watched in envy as such specialty four known offers of spray-on nail color, and mass market buyers said they stores as grabbed a big are gauging the interest to see if they’ll add the novel way to paint nails. share of sales kits for One source said, “people in my office went nuts over it when they saw it.” contouring, strobing and sculpting. Shoppers seem to be ready for something new other than gels. In Sephora scored big with a Pocket fact, a British brand called nails inc can’t keep its Paint Can collection, Contouring Class users could which soon will be available at Sephora, in stock. access on mobile devices. Now that L’Oréal Infallible Pro-Contour Other marketers include Milk, which is sold at Urban Outfitters, many women have mastered illusion, a television-promoted brand called Spray Perfect and China Glaze they can buy mass price options, such as L’Oréal Infallible Pro-Contour, Coloured Nail Spray. The latter will be sold at . Maybelline Face Studio, e.l.f. Contour Palette and L.A. Colors I Heart The process includes a base coat followed by the color spray, which Makeup. Retailers said the contour kits are off to a brisk start. can be layered for ombre effects, and then a top coat. The user then In addition to delivering additional business, the contour kits washes hands and the color not inspire sales of brushes since consumers prefer higher-end options protected simply washes off. than are included in most kits. The spray is meant to add some Mass retailers will face stepped-up competition in the contour arena fun to the category and allows from other value players. Subscription box FabFitFun is launching a women frequent ways to change makeup line called ISH — for I’m Smoking Hot — in collaboration up nails, according to Marwan with celebrity makeup artist Joey Maalouf. The first launch is an Zreik, VP marketing at American ISH Contour Kit available in two color palettes, light/medium and China Glaze Coloured Nail Spray International Industries. medium/dark, along with companion brushes.

‘APP’-ETITE OWN IT Technology is embedding itself into the mass beauty world in a big way How can you keep your customer from going to the store this year. PRIV — an app in New York, London, Austin and Los Angeles down the street? Offer them something they don’t have. The through which consumers can connect with stylists for , drive to offer something exclusive — if only for a short time , , and other beauty needs — has, for a limited time, — continues to gain traction at the nation’s mass stores. added Sally Hansen Airbrush Legs to its menu of grooming services CVS is becoming a leader in exclusives. The latest that can be performed in a user’s home. And just recently, CoverGirl example comes from SheaMoisture and its African introduced BeautyU, an app that helps women select products based on Water Mint & Ginger collection. It was developed with unique facial features and desired looks. The app hopes to avoid users’ such detoxifying ingredients as certified organic shea common lament of not liking a shade once they bought it. One of the butter, natural African water mint, activated charcoal, pioneers of beauty apps, L’Oréal Makeup Genius, now has more than 16 ginger and opuntia extract. CVS also is rolling out million downloads. Enlite, a collection of sensory beauty products not Augmented reality also is being used more with magic mirrors traditionally found in mass. That adds to CVS’ existing in stores where women can virtually try on makeup. According to lineup of exclusive brands — MUA Makeup Academy reports, there is a 31% increase in makeup sales with magic mirrors. and Nuance by Salma Hayek. SheaMoisture Injecting technology into the Walgreens Boots Alliance continues to build its African Water Mint & shopping experience is a trademark stable of owned brands, as well as expand Boots’ well- Ginger collection at the sixth U.S. NYX stores. There are respected products. Ulta Beauty just launched its own scanners that read codes prompting makeup brand called Fiona Stiles. In addition to exclusive brands, such information about the item, as well as its own nail color called Defy & Inspire, Target has an exclusive, fast- as tutorials. NYX customers also can growing hair products line for textured tresses called CURLS Blueberry. take selfies using items sold in the And recently, Éclair Naturals inked an exclusive distribution deal for its store, which are then projected on personal care items — which are gluten-free, non-GMO, soy and cruelty NYX store digital store displays. free, and vegan — with Rite Aid.

50 • APRIL 2016 DRUGSTORENEWS.COM