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All Hands Are Enjoined to Spin : Textile Production in Seventeenth-Century Massachusetts." (1996)
University of Massachusetts Amherst ScholarWorks@UMass Amherst Doctoral Dissertations 1896 - February 2014 1-1-1996 All hands are enjoined to spin : textile production in seventeenth- century Massachusetts. Susan M. Ouellette University of Massachusetts Amherst Follow this and additional works at: https://scholarworks.umass.edu/dissertations_1 Recommended Citation Ouellette, Susan M., "All hands are enjoined to spin : textile production in seventeenth-century Massachusetts." (1996). Doctoral Dissertations 1896 - February 2014. 1224. https://scholarworks.umass.edu/dissertations_1/1224 This Open Access Dissertation is brought to you for free and open access by ScholarWorks@UMass Amherst. It has been accepted for inclusion in Doctoral Dissertations 1896 - February 2014 by an authorized administrator of ScholarWorks@UMass Amherst. For more information, please contact [email protected]. UMASS/AMHERST c c: 315DLDb0133T[] i !3 ALL HANDS ARE ENJOINED TO SPIN: TEXTILE PRODUCTION IN SEVENTEENTH-CENTURY MASSACHUSETTS A Dissertation Presented by SUSAN M. OUELLETTE Submitted to the Graduate School of the University of Massachusetts Amherst in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of DOCTOR OF PHILOSOPHY February 1996 History ALL HANDS ARE ENJOINED TO SPIN: TEXTILE PRODUCTION IN SEVENTEENTH-CENTURY MASSACHUSETTS A Dissertation Presented by SUSAN M. OUELLETTE Approved as to style and content by: So Barry/ J . Levy^/ Chair c konJL WI_ Xa LaaAj Gerald McFarland, Member Neal Salisbury, Member Patricia Warner, Member Bruce Laurie, Department Head History (^Copyright by Susan Poland Ouellette 1996 All Rights Reserved ABSTRACT ALL HANDS ARE ENJOINED TO SPIN: TEXTILE PRODUCTION IN SEVENTEENTH-CENTURY MASSACHUSETTS FEBRUARY 1996 SUSAN M. OUELLETTE, B.A., STATE UNIVERSITY OF NEW YORK PLATTSBURGH M.A., UNIVERSITY OF MASSACHUSETTS AMHERST Ph.D., UNIVERSITY OF MASSACHUSETTS AMHERST Directed by: Professor Barry J. -
Spinning and Winding Taro Nishimura
The_Textile_Machinery_Society_of_Japan_Textile_College_2-Day_Course_on_Cloth_Making_Introduction_to_Spinning_2014_05_22 Spinning and Winding Taro Nishimura 1. Introduction Since several thousand years ago, humans have been manufacturing linen, wool, cotton, and silk to be used as fibrous materials for clothing. In 繊維 (sen’i ), which is the word for “fiber,” the Chinese character 繊 (sen ) is a unit for decimal fractions of one ten-millionth (equal to approximately 30 Ǻ), while 維 (i) means “long and thin.” Usually, fibers are several dozen µ thick, and can range from around one centimeter long to nigh infinite length. All natural materials, with the exception of raw silk, are between several to several dozen centimeters long and are categorized as staple fibers. Most synthetic fibers are spun into filaments. Figure 1 shows how a variety of textile product forms are interrelated. Short fibers are spun into cotton (spun) yarns, whereas filaments are used just as they are, or as textured yarns by being twisted or stretched. Fabric cloths that are processed into two-dimensional forms using cotton (spun) yarns and filament yarns include woven fabrics, knit fabrics, nets, and laces. Non-woven fabrics are another type of two-dimensional form, in which staple fibers and filaments are directly processed into cloths without being twisted into yarns. Yet another two-dimensional form is that of films, which are not fiber products and are made from synthetic materials. Three-dimensional fabrics and braids are categorized as three-dimensional forms. This paper discusses spinning, or the process of making staple fibers into yarns, and winding, which prepares fibers for weaving. One-dimensional Two-dimensional Three-dimensional Natural Staple fibers Spun yarns Woven fabrics Three-dimensional materials Filaments Filament yarns Knit fabrics fabrics Synthetic Nets Braids materials Laces Non-woven fabrics Films Fig. -
Greek and Roman Textiles and Dress Ebook
GREEK AND ROMAN TEXTILES AND DRESS PDF, EPUB, EBOOK Mary Harlow | 320 pages | 28 Feb 2015 | Oxbow Books | 9781782977155 | English | Oxford, United Kingdom Greek and Roman Textiles and Dress PDF Book The two scholars conclude that the technological innovation in textile production came from the east during all these periods. They had a chiton, which probably involved a certain amount of real sewing, although most of the needlework done by Greek women was in the form of embroidery. The spinster continued to feed tow from the distaff into the growing length of yarn until the spindle reached the floor. The peplos was fastened at the shoulders, armhole openings were left on each side, and the peplos might or might not be cinched with a belt. Caron, Beaudouin. Moffett, Kenworth. Italian Peninsula, B. Piotrovsky, Boris. Schlesinger Jr. It accompanies a major exhibition on view during the spring-summer of at The Costume Institute. Greene, Andrew. Her subject of study are the fullonicae of Ostia, for which she provides a number of diagrams illustrating the viewsheds from various locations within the workshops. Exchange was, not surprisingly, more common in the area of limes , but barbarians also exchanged Roman textiles with other barbarians, as is shown by Roman finds in the Baltic area of Poland. Tucker, Priscilla. Degas: The Artist's Mind. But opting out of some of these cookies may have an effect on your browsing experience. A short summary of this paper. Daniel, Malcolm. Rosenthal, Nan. Lazzarini, Lorenzo and Clemente Marconi. Greek and Roman Textiles and Dress Writer By merging the study of Greek religion and the study of textiles, the current study illustrates how textiles are, indeed, central materialisations of Greek cult, by reason of their capacity to accentuate and epitomize aspects of identity, spirituality, position in the religious system, by their forms as links between the maker, user, wearer, but also as key material agents in the performance of rituals and communication with the divine. -
And Interdisciplinary Nature of Textile Design Research of Linseed Fibres
Multi- and interdisciplinary nature of textile design research of linseed fibres Tiina Härkäsalmi* and Ilpo Koskinen** Aalto-University, School of Art and Design, Department of Design Hämeentie 135 C, 00560 Helsinki, Finland *e-mail: [email protected] **e-mail: [email protected] Abstract: In the future there will be an increasing need for renewable, recyclable and environmentally safety fibres, which are compatible with existing, cotton-based textile manufacturing technologies and are competitive on price and quality. In this study as a raw material the linseed fibres are used, which is almost an unexploited resource for high value end uses. This paper describes a multidisciplinary design study that consisted of three parts, a microbiological study that devel- oped a Fusart®-method for cottonizing linseed fibres, a production model study aimed at showing how the fibres could be processed in an industrial scale, and a fibre quality evaluation study. In practise it means that lustrous and soft fibres, light coloured can be produced cost-efficiently and environmentally-consciously for textiles and potential for producing high-quality bio-based mate- rial with tailored properties. Keywords: design research, material research, fungus, textile design 1. Introduction The objective of this study is to explore the suitability of linseed elementary fibres in new textile and technical applications and creating prerequisites for product design and productization. The study is based on a multidisciplinary approach to the use of flax elementary fibres where, rather than tradi- tional long-linen textile processing technology, short-fibre methods are employed. Special attention was paid to the quality requirements of rotor spinning. -
Lecture Outline Processing Fiber Into Yarn I
LECTURE OUTLINE PROCESSING FIBER INTO YARN I. The History of Fiber Processing 11. Material Opening and Cleaning A. Preparing the bale lay-down 1. Selection of bales 2. Bale arrangement for blending 3. Removal of bands and bagging B. Opening and cleaning equipment 1. Weigh-pan feeders 2. Magnetic and electronic cleaners 3. Dust removers 4. Beater type cleaners 5. Positive-fed saw-type cleaners 111. Carding A. Opening of fiber B. Cleaning as a hction C. Reducing or drafting D. Packaging of stock IV. Drawing A. Drafting and fiber orientation B. Blending and uniformity V. Combing A. Combing preparation 1. Drawing for Iapper 2. Lapping B. Principles of combing operation I. Feeding of laps 2. Nipping of fiber 3. Circular combing 4. Detaching 5. Top combing V. Combing (continued) C. Primary functions 1. Removal of short fiber (noils) 2. Removal of trash D. Secondary functions 1. Reducing and drafting 2. Blending and packaging VI. Roving A. Definition and description of machine B. Description of product C. Purpose of roving machine 1. Drafting 2. Twisting 3. Packaging a. laying b. winding c. building VII. Types of Spinning A. Intermittent spinning 1. Hand Spinning 2. Saxony Wheel-Spinning Jenny B. Continuous spinning 1. Cap spinning 2. Centrifugal spinning 3. Flyer spinning 4. Ring spinning a. definition and description of process 1. drafting of fibers 2. twisting of yarn 3. packagmg of yarn aa. laying bb. winding cc. package building b. other ring spinning factors 1. ring and traveler 2. speeds and rpms C. Open-end spinning 1. Definition and methods a. -
Basic of Textiles
BASIC OF TEXTILES BFA(F) 202 CC 5 Directorate of Distance Education SWAMI VIVEKANAND SUBHARTI UNIVERSITY MEERUT 250005 UTTAR PRADESH SIM MOUDLE DEVELOPED BY: Reviewed by the study Material Assessment Committed Comprising: 1. Dr. N.K.Ahuja, Vice Chancellor Copyright © Publishers Grid No part of this publication which is material protected by this copyright notice may be reproduce or transmitted or utilized or store in any form or by any means now know or here in after invented, electronic, digital or mechanical. Including, photocopying, scanning, recording or by any informa- tion storage or retrieval system, without prior permission from the publisher. Information contained in this book has been published by Publishers Grid and Publishers. and has been obtained by its author from sources believed to be reliable and are correct to the best of their knowledge. However, the publisher and author shall in no event be liable for any errors, omission or damages arising out of this information and specially disclaim and implied warranties or merchantability or fitness for any particular use. Published by: Publishers Grid 4857/24, Ansari Road, Darya ganj, New Delhi-110002. Tel: 9899459633, 7982859204 E-mail: [email protected], [email protected] Printed by: A3 Digital Press Edition : 2021 CONTENTS 1. Fiber Study 5-64 2. Fiber and its Classification 65-175 3. Yarn and its Types 176-213 4. Fabric Manufacturing Techniques 214-260 5. Knitted 261-302 UNIT Fiber Study 1 NOTES FIBER STUDY STRUCTURE 1.1 Learning Objective 1.2 Introduction 1.3 Monomer, Polymer, Degree of polymerization 1.4 Student Activity 1.5 Properties of Fiber: Primary & Secondary 1.6 Summary 1.7 Glossary 1.8 Review Questions 1.1 LEARNING OBJECTIVE After studying this unit you should be able to: ● Describe the Natural Fiber. -
02 Yarn Processing
Amini Guide 1 02 Yarn processing CARPETS Amini Guide 02 Yarn processing 2 The carpet weaving phase is preceded by a series of yarn treatments ranging from carding to drying. The goal is to make the material as homogeneous as possible, so that it features such uniform characteristics as resistance, cleanliness, color and elasticity. Carding (3), Spinning (4), Dyeing (5) Amini Guide 02 Yarn processing 3 Carding This is the processing phase where short fibers are untangled and spread out. Although today this is mostly done by mechanical carding machines, in some artisan laboratories this ancient technique is still performed by hand with tools known as “combing cards” used to comb the fibers between two large brushes with metal tips. The result is a thin flap called ‘card web’, later carved into thin strips, called ‘wicks’, and wrapped onto a beam. Each wick gives rise to a carded thread. Amini Guide 02 Yarn processing 4 Spinning Spinning is the twisting together of drawn-out strands of fibers to form yarn, and is a major part of the textile industry. The oldest spinning tools are the distaff (rock) and the spindle. The distaff is a staff, held under one’s arm while using a spindle. Fiber is wrapped around the distaff, and tied in place with a piece of ribbon or string. The spindle is a straight spike used for spinning, twisting fibers into yarn. Amini Guide 02 Yarn processing 5 Dyeing Dyeing is the application of dyes or pigments on textile materials with the objective of achieving color with desired fastness. -
The Challenge of Prehistoric Textiles
University of Nebraska - Lincoln DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings Textile Society of America 1988 Wringing It Dry: The Challenge Of Prehistoric Textiles Elizabeth Barber Occidental College Follow this and additional works at: https://digitalcommons.unl.edu/tsaconf Part of the Art and Design Commons Barber, Elizabeth, "Wringing It Dry: The Challenge Of Prehistoric Textiles" (1988). Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings. 626. https://digitalcommons.unl.edu/tsaconf/626 This Article is brought to you for free and open access by the Textile Society of America at DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln. It has been accepted for inclusion in Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings by an authorized administrator of DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln. WRINGING IT DRY: THE CHALLENGE OF PREHISTORIC TEXTILES ELIZABETH BARBER Deptartments of Languages and Anthropology, Occidental College, Los Angeles, CA 90041 Some time ago I embarked on a "short little project" to find out what I could about Bronze Age Aegean textiles, which I had come to suspect were more elaborate and more important than anyone was giving them credit for. I knew the project could not take very long, and would not take more than maybe ten pages to write up, because virtually nothing in the way of textiles has survived from Greece—even in the Classical period, let alone the prehistoric era. But my father, who was a physicist, had instilled into me a question that changed everything: namely, "(If I can't get at it by the direct route,) how else can I get at it?" Fourteen years and 800 pages of "how elses" later, I had more or less wrapped up my "little project"—soon to be published as a fat book. -
PRELIMINARY TREATMENT of FIBRES, E.G. for SPINNING (Winding Or Unwinding, Conducting Or Guiding Laps, Webs, Slivers Or Roving
D01G CPC COOPERATIVE PATENT CLASSIFICATION D TEXTILES; PAPER TEXTILES OR FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR D01 NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING (NOTE omitted) D01G PRELIMINARY TREATMENT OF FIBRES, e.g. FOR SPINNING (winding or unwinding, conducting or guiding laps, webs, slivers or rovings in general, sliver or roving cans, depositing in sliver or roving cabs B65H; preparation of fibres for paper-making D21) NOTE Attention is drawn to the note following the title of Class D01. WARNING In this subclass non-limiting references (in the sense of paragraph 39 of the Guide to the IPC) may still be displayed in the scheme. 1/00 Severing continuous filaments or long fibres, e.g. 9/08 . by means of air draught arrangements stapling 9/10 . using foraminous cylinders (foraminous suction 1/02 . to form staple fibres not delivered in strand form cylinders for lap-forming D01G 25/00) 1/022 . {by solvents} 9/12 . Combinations of opening or cleaning machines 1/025 . {by thermic means, e.g. laser} 9/14 . Details of machines or apparatus 1/027 . {by freezing} 9/16 . Feeding arrangements (fibre-feeding apparatus 1/04 . by cutting of general application in fibre-treating machines 1/06 . Converting tows to slivers or yarns, e.g. in D01G 23/00) direct spinning (drafting arrangements, twisting 9/18 . Arrangements for discharging fibres arrangements D01H) 9/20 . Framework; Casings; Coverings; Grids 1/08 . by stretching or abrading 9/22 . Driving arrangements 1/081 . {with preferential breaking zones} 11/00 Disintegrating fibre-containing articles to obtain 1/083 . {obtained by mechanical means, e.g. -
(A) Machinery, Plant, Vehicles ; (B) Construction of Buildings ; Basic Data on the Essential Characteristics of Industry Were Co
Official Journal of the European Communities 201 13.8.64 OFFICIAL JOURNAL OF THE EUROPEAN COMMUNITIES 2193/64 COUNCIL DIRECTIVE of 30 July 1964 concerning co-ordinated annual surveys of investment in industry ( 64/475/EEC ) THE COUNCIL OF THE EUROPEAN ECONOMIC Article 2 COMMUNITY, For the purposes of this Directive, an industry shall Having regard to the Treaty establishing the Euro be defined by reference to the 'Nomenclature of Indus pean Economic Community, and in particular Article tries in the European Communities' ( NICE). 1 In the 213 thereof ; case of small undertakings the survey may be carried out by random sampling. Having regard to the draft submitted by the Com Article 3 Whereas in order to carry out the tasks entrusted to it under the Treaty the Commission must have at its The figures to be recorded shall be those in respect disposal annual statistics on the trend of investment of annual investment expenditure ( including plant in the industries of the Community ; constructed by the undertakings themselves), broken Whereas in the industrial survey for 1962 comparable down as follows : basic data on the essential characteristics of industry ( a ) Machinery, plant, vehicles ; were collected for the first time ; whereas such a ( b) Construction of buildings ; census cannot be carried out frequently ; whereas annual statistics concerning certain basic matters ( c) Purchase of existing buildings and of land . cannot however be dispensed with for the intervening Investments of a social nature shall , where possible, be years -
Reference for Spinning, Dyeing and Finishing of Milk Fiber
Swicofil AG Textile Services Gerliswilstr. 23 CH-6021 Emmenbrücke Reference for Spinning, Dyeing and Finishing of milk fiber 1. Spinning technological process (example of yarn with 163tex) Scutching A002D---A006B---A036C (card wire) Carding A186D Drawing FA302 (two lines) Roving A454G Spinning FA502 Winding 2. Main technical measure for each process 1). Pretreatment As seen in Table 1, the mass specific resistance of milk protein fiber is larger, so the pretreatment before scutching is more important. After opening bales, the milk protein fiber needs some water and antistatic agent. Based on the tests of fiber property and the choice of antistatic agents, the moisture regain of pure spinning with milk protein fiber is controlled about 16%, and the add-on of chosen composite antistatic agent is about 1%. Meanwhile, the relative humidity in the workshop is controlled within 68~70% to reduce the electrostatic influence. 2). Process of opening and picking With good uniformity and less impurity, the milk protein fiber is bulky and it is easy to open, and the friction coefficient between fibers is low, and the cohesion force is relatively weaker. Thus, the process of opening and picking should adopt the process of precise picking, less beating and low speed. During production, the height of the beater in the grab machine stretched rib is 2.5mm, and the picking should be precise and the blending should be uniform. In the opening machine model A036C, the card beater is adopted to reduce fiber damage and the constant volume of laps should be smaller to avoid neps during opening and picking so the lap quality can be stable. -
GLOSSARY of SPINNING TERMS Batts - Carded Hunks of Fiber As It Comes Off of a Drumcarder Bench – Also Called the Table
GLOSSARY OF SPINNING TERMS batts - carded hunks of fiber as it comes off of a drumcarder bench – also called the table. The table of the spinning wheel on which the wheel and spinning mechanism are mounted bobbin – the shaft of the spool onto which the spun yarn is wound on a spinning wheel carders – (or cards) a pair of brushes used to smooth and straighten fibers for spinning comb - used to process long stapled wool for worsted spinning crimp - amount of curl in a lock of fleece; fine wool is very crimpy distaff – a staff that holds the flax or wool fibers which are drawn from as the spinner needs them when spinning. A distaff can be attached to a belt, mounted on the bench of a spinning wheel, or free-standing. draft - the pulling out of fibers to allow only a certain amount of the fiber to twist into thread drafting triangle – the space between the spun yarn and the fibers being drawn out drive band – the cord carrying the power from the large wheel to the spindle or bobbin/pulley drop spindle – (handspindle) a stick with a weighted whorl that is used to twist fibers into thread ewe – a mature female sheep fiber – the unspun hair/wool/plant material (as opposed to the thread, which is already spun) fleece – the entire coat of wool off of a sheep flyer – the u-shaped device on a treadle spinning wheel that twists the yarn footman – the straight piece of wood or wire that connects the treadle to the axle/crank of a spinning wheel grease wool – (or “wool in the grease”) the unwashed wool as it comes off of a sheep hank – a 560-yard long skein of wool, usually wound on a niddy-noddy or reel knot – a 40-yard strand skein of yarn wound on a reel or a niddy-noddy that measures 2 yards in circumference= 80 yards maidens – (or sisters) two upright pieces of wood that hold the spinning apparatus in a horizontal position.