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Australian Way August 2014

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Australian Way August 2014 just say Historic hotels, horseback rides, hearty food and fine wine make the Yass Valley in New South Wales an ideal destination in any season. WORDS GARETH MEYER PHOTOGRAPHY DAVID HAHN SEPTEMBER 2014 QANTAS 73 FOOD AND& WINE WINE YASS YASS VALLEY VALLEY IN THE MID-1800S, the Yass Valley was a bustling rest stop for travellers between Sydney abandoned city life to apply their passion to Flint in the Vines, a and Melbourne. The to-and-fro of Cobb & Co coaches, drovers, the superb cellar door-restaurant in Murrumbateman. horsemen of the Murrumbidgee and gold prospectors stoked the Scratch the cultural surface of the area and one finds an eclectic, creative imagination of a local boy by the name of Andrew Barton but equally committed troupe of artists, among them world-renowned “Banjo” Paterson. But since those early days, the region hasn’t really film-score composers, classical musicians and glassblowers. A warranted its own postcard. When neighbouring Canberra became month of artistic activity will be launched this year with YASSarts the nation’s seat of power, the pollies settled to the east and left the Spring (October 3-26), incorporating Sculptures in the Paddock, region to merino sheep and grain farmers. which made its successful debut last year. This month, Yass hosts Even now, a GPS system offers limited help in navigating this the Turning Wave Festival of Irish and Australian music (September McCubbinesque landscape of stringybark and scribbly gums. 19-21, turningwave.org.au), while November brings Classic Yass Fortunately, pioneering locals and passionate ring-ins are putting the (November 1, classicyass.com), a day of classic cars, billycart races valley firmly on the discerning food and wine traveller’s map. and live music. Australian Gourmet Traveller Wine 2013 winemaker of the year The collective creativity of artists and artisans is helping to forge Tim Kirk is among the local heroes. He has toiled hard to produce a a distinctive regional identity. February’s Summerside and August’s drop described by Andrew Caillard of Langton’s wine auction house Fireside festivals connect diverse experiences offered by the region’s as “perhaps one of the most important advances in the development Poacher’s Way collective (thepoachersway.com.au). Enjoy a horse of Australian shiraz since the release of 1952 Penfolds Grange ride, sample Robyn Rowe’s artisanal chocolate, hunt for truffles and Hermitage”. Other winemakers are following his lead, crafting great warm up over slow-braised ox cheek at Grazing. cool-climate shiraz, viognier and riesling. While Canberra offers boutique accommodation within reason- Restaurateurs have found inspiration in the local wines and fine able driving distance, the valley promises a relaxed and warm rural regional produce that includes winter truffles, lamb, mushrooms experience for those who’d prefer to stay local. The lovingly restored and olives. Jennie and Mark Mooney have transformed Gundaroo’s 1847 Georgian-style Globe Inn in Yass is the place to book for a charming 1865 Royal Hotel into Grazing, the region’s standout romantic getaway, while the Country Guesthouse Schonegg and gastropub. Former stockbroker Susan Bruce took an educated punt Redbrow Garden are studies in tranquillity. The Yass Valley may be on her Poachers Pantry – part restaurant, smokehouse and cellar reinventing itself, but locals are determined to preserve its charming, door – in the gentle hills of Hall. Jai and Kate Dawson have recently rural identity. Look out for future postcard releases. ❯ Saddle up with Burnelee Excursions On Horseback at an idyllic property in Murrumbateman 74 QANTAS SEPTEMBER 2014 SCULPTURE PHOTOGRAPHY: MEGAN CASSIDY Clockwise from top left: Sculptures in the Paddock; Wilhelmina + Celeste; Jai Dawson of Flint in the Vines at Shaw Vineyard; Murrumbateman Farmers Market SEPTEMBER 2014 QANTAS 75 From above left: Clonakilla, Murrumbateman; Homeleigh Grove Olives, Wallaroo; Capital Wines, Gundaroo STAY floors and working gramophone. Tarte tatin, crème brûlée and similar it became ubiquitous in smart city Country Guesthouse Hosts Greg Miller and David Small dessert classics feature alongside diners. Open for lunch and dinner Schonegg offer cooked breakfasts for all modern must-haves such as frozen from Thursday to Sunday, and 381 Hillview Drive, bookings and home-cooked meals caramel and salted peanut butter breakfast on weekends. Murrumbateman. for full-house bookings. From $130. custard with chocolate. (02) 6227 0344. schonegg.com.au Capital Wines With its serene rural setting, EAT Flint in the Vines 42 Cork Street, Gundaroo. Country Guesthouse Schonegg Poachers Pantry Shaw Vineyard Estate, 34 Isabel (02) 6236 8555. offers smart and comfortable rooms 431 Nanima Road, Hall. Drive, Murrumbateman. capitalwines.com.au with private courtyards that look (02) 6230 2487. (02) 6227 5144. Capital Wines cellar door and cafe out on unbroken vistas. From $120. poacherspantry.com.au flintinthevines.net.au occupies the old stables of The The traditional smokehouse has The wood-fired pizzas are Royal Hotel and offers fine food Redbrow Garden been producing gourmet smoked great, but don’t skip smartly-plated options. Enjoy platters and wine 1143 Nanima Road, meats for 21 years and these, along dishes such as slow-cooked pork pairings from Kyeema Vineyard’s Murrumbateman. with Wily Trout wine, can be loin with cauliflower puree and The Ministry Series with an (02) 6226 8166. purchased from the farm shop and charred onions. A tart of local epicurean lunch ($36 for four canberraguesthouse.com.au cellar door. Better yet, sample them mushrooms is simply a stunner. wines matched with food). James and Debbie Gordon are busily over a slow lunch in the cafe. A dish revamping their charming farm of smoked lamb loin, heirloom Café Dolcetto Robyn Rowe Chocolates cottage. Set in a beautiful lakeside carrots and lentils goes well with a 129 Comur Street, Yass. 1153 Nanima Road, garden, it is popular with groups glass of Wily Trout pinot noir. (02) 6226 1277. Murrumbateman. keen to relax over a barbecue, table With art deco fittings, books for (02) 6227 0550. tennis and local wines. From $160 Grazing sale and an open fireplace, this is a robynrowechocolates.com.au (with breakfast). 42 Cork Street, Gundaroo. cute and friendly spot for breakfast Rowe’s late career change entails (02) 6236 8777. grazing.com.au or a light lunch. Local stuffed crafting preservative-free artisanal The Globe Inn Chef Kurt Neumann harvests mushrooms are hard to pass up. treats from Belgian couverture 70 Rossi Street, Yass. heirloom vegetables from the back chocolate. Aromatique Poire (pear), (02) 6226 3680. of the pub and sources local black Cork Street Café Open Sesame (tahini) and sea-salted theglobeinn.com.au truffles during the winter Truffle Cork Street, Gundaroo. caramel (produced for Canberra’s This delightful guesthouse has five Festival. Ox cheek slow-cooked in (02) 6236 8217. corkstcafe.com.au centenary) are standouts. Hang bedrooms and a guest living room Pedro Ximénez sherry comforts The Cork Street gang mastered the around for a chat and an with an open fire, original timber locals and big-city foodies alike. art of wood-fired pizza well before outstanding hot chocolate. ❯ 76 QANTAS SEPTEMBER 2014 GUNDAROO’S CHARMING 1865 ROYAL HOTEL IS HOME TO GRAZING, THE REGION’S STANDOUT GASTROPUB GGrazing:razing: ffrozenrozen caramelcaramel aandnd ssaltedalted hazelnuthazelnut custardcustard withwith cchocolatehocolate parfaitparfait (far(far lleft)eft) ; ooxx ccheekheek bbraisedraised iinn PPedroedro XXiméneziménez ssherryherry oonn pparsniparsnip mmashash withwith gglazedlazed hheirloomeirloom ccarrotsarrots aandnd hhorseradishorseradish Murrumbateman Farmers Market Recreational grounds, Murrumbateman. The fortnightly market (second and Thyme to Taste fourth Saturdays of the month) has 60 Comur Street, Yass. stalls selling everything from alpaca 0403 999 899. wool scarves and dog beds to jams. thymetotaste.com.au This part-deli, part-cafe is introducing Peter Crisp Galleries locals to good coffee and fine local Gap Range, Bowning. produce. A good option for those (02) 6227 6073. petercrisp.com.au approaching Yass from the south. fired rosemary, potato and franc), coffee and part-owner Crisp’s glassmaking is fit for former gorgonzola pizza turned out by Annemarie’s scones – the choice of presidents (George W Bush), royals Homeleigh Grove magistrate-turned-pizzaiolo (and local cyclists on their regional loop. (Prince Charles) and global brands Olives winery founder) Graeme Lunney. (Bombay Sapphire). An avid 50 Wallaroo Road, Hall. Clonakilla supporter of the arts, Crisp hosts (02) 6230 2931. Yarrh Wines 3 Crisps Lane, Murrumbateman. concerts within his gallery space. homeleighgroveolives.com.au 440 Greenwood Road, (02) 6227 5877. Peter O’Clery says local Murrumbateman. clonakilla.com.au Kim Nelson Fine temperatures match those of (02) 6227 1474. An understated cellar door matches Art & Editions Tuscany, even if the rain falls at yarrhwines.com.au Tim Kirk’s resolute focus on the 67 Comur Street, Yass. the wrong time. His Ligurian-style The Yarrh cellar door is smart and quality of the fruit and winemaking. (02) 6226 1796. kimnelson.com.au Frantoio olives are the perfect sleek, tucked away in the stringy His celebrated shiraz viognier is the Australian symbolist artist Kim option for a platter. bark forest. Winemaker Fiona highlight of the tasting, but there’s Nelson is a driving force behind Wholohan produces fine riesling and plenty of good stuff along the way. regional arts initiative YASSarts. DRINK shiraz, and draws on local produce See his work on display at the Four Winds Vineyard for occasional Sunday lunches (first SEE & DO Yass Oddfellow’s Hall. 9 Patemans Lane, Sunday of the month, September- Burnelee Excursions Murrumbateman. May) and daily antipasti plates. on Horseback Wilhelmina + Celeste 0432 060 903. 320 Dicks Creek Road, 198 Comur Street, Yass. fourwindsvineyard.com.au Tallagandra Hill Murrumbateman. (02) 6226 6415. Love and a love of winemaking 1692 Murrumbateman Road, (02) 6227 5850. burnelee.com.au wilhelminameetsceleste.com.au brought Bill and Jaime Crowe Gundaroo.
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