just say
Historic hotels, horseback rides, hearty food and fine wine make the Yass Valley in New South Wales an ideal destination in any season.
WORDS GARETH MEYER PHOTOGRAPHY DAVID HAHN
SEPTEMBER 2014 QANTAS 73 FOOD AND& WINE WINE YASS YASS VALLEY VALLEY
IN THE MID-1800S, the Yass Valley was a bustling rest stop for travellers between Sydney abandoned city life to apply their passion to Flint in the Vines, a and Melbourne. The to-and-fro of Cobb & Co coaches, drovers, the superb cellar door-restaurant in Murrumbateman. horsemen of the Murrumbidgee and gold prospectors stoked the Scratch the cultural surface of the area and one finds an eclectic, creative imagination of a local boy by the name of Andrew Barton but equally committed troupe of artists, among them world-renowned “Banjo” Paterson. But since those early days, the region hasn’t really film-score composers, classical musicians and glassblowers. A warranted its own postcard. When neighbouring Canberra became month of artistic activity will be launched this year with YASSarts the nation’s seat of power, the pollies settled to the east and left the Spring (October 3-26), incorporating Sculptures in the Paddock, region to merino sheep and grain farmers. which made its successful debut last year. This month, Yass hosts Even now, a GPS system offers limited help in navigating this the Turning Wave Festival of Irish and Australian music (September McCubbinesque landscape of stringybark and scribbly gums. 19-21, turningwave.org.au), while November brings Classic Yass Fortunately, pioneering locals and passionate ring-ins are putting the (November 1, classicyass.com), a day of classic cars, billycart races valley firmly on the discerning food and wine traveller’s map. and live music. Australian Gourmet Traveller Wine 2013 winemaker of the year The collective creativity of artists and artisans is helping to forge Tim Kirk is among the local heroes. He has toiled hard to produce a a distinctive regional identity. February’s Summerside and August’s drop described by Andrew Caillard of Langton’s wine auction house Fireside festivals connect diverse experiences offered by the region’s as “perhaps one of the most important advances in the development Poacher’s Way collective (thepoachersway.com.au). Enjoy a horse of Australian shiraz since the release of 1952 Penfolds Grange ride, sample Robyn Rowe’s artisanal chocolate, hunt for truffles and Hermitage”. Other winemakers are following his lead, crafting great warm up over slow-braised ox cheek at Grazing. cool-climate shiraz, viognier and riesling. While Canberra offers boutique accommodation within reason- Restaurateurs have found inspiration in the local wines and fine able driving distance, the valley promises a relaxed and warm rural regional produce that includes winter truffles, lamb, mushrooms experience for those who’d prefer to stay local. The lovingly restored and olives. Jennie and Mark Mooney have transformed Gundaroo’s 1847 Georgian-style Globe Inn in Yass is the place to book for a charming 1865 Royal Hotel into Grazing, the region’s standout romantic getaway, while the Country Guesthouse Schonegg and gastropub. Former stockbroker Susan Bruce took an educated punt Redbrow Garden are studies in tranquillity. The Yass Valley may be on her Poachers Pantry – part restaurant, smokehouse and cellar reinventing itself, but locals are determined to preserve its charming, door – in the gentle hills of Hall. Jai and Kate Dawson have recently rural identity. Look out for future postcard releases. ❯
Saddle up with Burnelee Excursions On Horseback at an idyllic property in Murrumbateman
74 QANTAS SEPTEMBER 2014 SCULPTURE PHOTOGRAPHY: MEGAN CASSIDY
Clockwise from top left: Sculptures in the Paddock; Wilhelmina + Celeste; Jai Dawson of Flint in the Vines at Shaw Vineyard; Murrumbateman Farmers Market
SEPTEMBER 2014 QANTAS 75 From above left: Clonakilla, Murrumbateman; Homeleigh Grove Olives, Wallaroo; Capital Wines, Gundaroo
STAY floors and working gramophone. Tarte tatin, crème brûlée and similar it became ubiquitous in smart city Country Guesthouse Hosts Greg Miller and David Small dessert classics feature alongside diners. Open for lunch and dinner Schonegg offer cooked breakfasts for all modern must-haves such as frozen from Thursday to Sunday, and 381 Hillview Drive, bookings and home-cooked meals caramel and salted peanut butter breakfast on weekends. Murrumbateman. for full-house bookings. From $130. custard with chocolate. (02) 6227 0344. schonegg.com.au Capital Wines With its serene rural setting, EAT Flint in the Vines 42 Cork Street, Gundaroo. Country Guesthouse Schonegg Poachers Pantry Shaw Vineyard Estate, 34 Isabel (02) 6236 8555. offers smart and comfortable rooms 431 Nanima Road, Hall. Drive, Murrumbateman. capitalwines.com.au with private courtyards that look (02) 6230 2487. (02) 6227 5144. Capital Wines cellar door and cafe out on unbroken vistas. From $120. poacherspantry.com.au flintinthevines.net.au occupies the old stables of The The traditional smokehouse has The wood-fired pizzas are Royal Hotel and offers fine food Redbrow Garden been producing gourmet smoked great, but don’t skip smartly-plated options. Enjoy platters and wine 1143 Nanima Road, meats for 21 years and these, along dishes such as slow-cooked pork pairings from Kyeema Vineyard’s Murrumbateman. with Wily Trout wine, can be loin with cauliflower puree and The Ministry Series with an (02) 6226 8166. purchased from the farm shop and charred onions. A tart of local epicurean lunch ($36 for four canberraguesthouse.com.au cellar door. Better yet, sample them mushrooms is simply a stunner. wines matched with food). James and Debbie Gordon are busily over a slow lunch in the cafe. A dish revamping their charming farm of smoked lamb loin, heirloom Café Dolcetto Robyn Rowe Chocolates cottage. Set in a beautiful lakeside carrots and lentils goes well with a 129 Comur Street, Yass. 1153 Nanima Road, garden, it is popular with groups glass of Wily Trout pinot noir. (02) 6226 1277. Murrumbateman. keen to relax over a barbecue, table With art deco fittings, books for (02) 6227 0550. tennis and local wines. From $160 Grazing sale and an open fireplace, this is a robynrowechocolates.com.au (with breakfast). 42 Cork Street, Gundaroo. cute and friendly spot for breakfast Rowe’s late career change entails (02) 6236 8777. grazing.com.au or a light lunch. Local stuffed crafting preservative-free artisanal The Globe Inn Chef Kurt Neumann harvests mushrooms are hard to pass up. treats from Belgian couverture 70 Rossi Street, Yass. heirloom vegetables from the back chocolate. Aromatique Poire (pear), (02) 6226 3680. of the pub and sources local black Cork Street Café Open Sesame (tahini) and sea-salted theglobeinn.com.au truffles during the winter Truffle Cork Street, Gundaroo. caramel (produced for Canberra’s This delightful guesthouse has five Festival. Ox cheek slow-cooked in (02) 6236 8217. corkstcafe.com.au centenary) are standouts. Hang bedrooms and a guest living room Pedro Ximénez sherry comforts The Cork Street gang mastered the around for a chat and an with an open fire, original timber locals and big-city foodies alike. art of wood-fired pizza well before outstanding hot chocolate. ❯
76 QANTAS SEPTEMBER 2014 GUNDAROO’S CHARMING 1865 ROYAL HOTEL IS HOME TO GRAZING, THE REGION’S STANDOUT GASTROPUB
GGrazing:razing: ffrozenrozen caramelcaramel andand ssaltedalted hazelnuthazelnut custardcustard withwith cchocolatehocolate parfaitparfait (far(far left)left) ; ooxx ccheekheek bbraisedraised iinn PPedroedro XXiméneziménez ssherryherry oonn pparsniparsnip mmashash withwith gglazedlazed hheirloomeirloom ccarrotsarrots aandnd hhorseradishorseradish
Murrumbateman Farmers Market Recreational grounds, Murrumbateman. The fortnightly market (second and Thyme to Taste fourth Saturdays of the month) has 60 Comur Street, Yass. stalls selling everything from alpaca 0403 999 899. wool scarves and dog beds to jams. thymetotaste.com.au This part-deli, part-cafe is introducing Peter Crisp Galleries locals to good coffee and fine local Gap Range, Bowning. produce. A good option for those (02) 6227 6073. petercrisp.com.au approaching Yass from the south. fired rosemary, potato and franc), coffee and part-owner Crisp’s glassmaking is fit for former gorgonzola pizza turned out by Annemarie’s scones – the choice of presidents (George W Bush), royals Homeleigh Grove magistrate-turned-pizzaiolo (and local cyclists on their regional loop. (Prince Charles) and global brands Olives winery founder) Graeme Lunney. (Bombay Sapphire). An avid 50 Wallaroo Road, Hall. Clonakilla supporter of the arts, Crisp hosts (02) 6230 2931. Yarrh Wines 3 Crisps Lane, Murrumbateman. concerts within his gallery space. homeleighgroveolives.com.au 440 Greenwood Road, (02) 6227 5877. Peter O’Clery says local Murrumbateman. clonakilla.com.au Kim Nelson Fine temperatures match those of (02) 6227 1474. An understated cellar door matches Art & Editions Tuscany, even if the rain falls at yarrhwines.com.au Tim Kirk’s resolute focus on the 67 Comur Street, Yass. the wrong time. His Ligurian-style The Yarrh cellar door is smart and quality of the fruit and winemaking. (02) 6226 1796. kimnelson.com.au Frantoio olives are the perfect sleek, tucked away in the stringy His celebrated shiraz viognier is the Australian symbolist artist Kim option for a platter. bark forest. Winemaker Fiona highlight of the tasting, but there’s Nelson is a driving force behind Wholohan produces fine riesling and plenty of good stuff along the way. regional arts initiative YASSarts. DRINK shiraz, and draws on local produce See his work on display at the Four Winds Vineyard for occasional Sunday lunches (first SEE & DO Yass Oddfellow’s Hall. 9 Patemans Lane, Sunday of the month, September- Burnelee Excursions Murrumbateman. May) and daily antipasti plates. on Horseback Wilhelmina + Celeste 0432 060 903. 320 Dicks Creek Road, 198 Comur Street, Yass. fourwindsvineyard.com.au Tallagandra Hill Murrumbateman. (02) 6226 6415. Love and a love of winemaking 1692 Murrumbateman Road, (02) 6227 5850. burnelee.com.au wilhelminameetsceleste.com.au brought Bill and Jaime Crowe Gundaroo. Lindsey Butt and his daughter Julie Anne Laidlaw threw in her job to together in California’s Napa Valley. (02) 6236 8694. Rachel usually guide riders on pursue her love of interior decorating. Now they’re making wine here the www.tallagandrahill.com.au two-hour treks across the family’s Her whimsical range includes old way – hand-picked, and basket- A small family-owned winery, idyllic property, and they’ll help hand-poured candles, restored wool pressed. Try some of their elegant Tallagandra is a great place for a you select a mount that’s classing tables and jewellery made shiraz among the vines and wood- relaxed drop of Sassy Red (cabernet appropriate for your skill level. from vintage cutlery. ❯
78 QANTAS SEPTEMBER 2014 FOOD & WINE YASS VALLEY
ON THE WINE TRAIL Wine writer Tyson Stelzer casts an eye over some other wine regions in NSW.
HUNTER VALLEY more is sourced here than anywhere else in under these conditions, but it is chardonnay 50km west of Newcastle and 160km north of the state, much of it destined for the blends that makes the region’s best whites, driven by Sydney, the Hunter Valley is the state’s oldest of large brands outside the region. Sadly, fruit intensity and high-altitude acidity. Home and most important wine region, but it is many are not labelled as Tumbarumba, so it to reds of many varieties, shiraz and cabernet far from a staid historical destination. In the has taken a long time for this small region to sauvignon are particularly well suited here. past decade, the Hunter has burst from its gain recognition in the market. ✜ Key cellar doors: Printhie Wines (489 “old-fashioned” stereotype, establishing itself Recent warm, dry vintages have Yuranigh Road); Philip Shaw (45 Caldwell Lane); as a breeding ground for a new generation of encouraged the planting of varieties such as Bloodwood (by appointment, 02 6362 5631). talented young winemakers. The latest trend shiraz and merlot, which may not otherwise is single-vineyard, with small and large estates ripen at altitudes of 500-800m. Chardonnay HILLTOPS increasingly reserving their top vineyards for is the region’s most promising grape, On the south-west slopes of the Great special bottlings. producing sparkling wines of elegant and Dividing Range two hours’ north-west of Hunter semillon is unique in the refreshing style, and table wines that contrast Canberra, Hilltops is a region fast establishing wine world, a refreshing sauvignon blanc concentration with tangy vitality. a reputation for distinctive, characterful and substitute in its youth, yet possessing a ✜ Key cellar door: Courabyra Wines age-worthy shiraz and cabernet sauvignon. remarkable ability to grow depth and (805 Courabyra Road). With altitudes above 400m, the cool complexity for decades in the cellar. The extremes and rich red soils of the region elegant, medium-bodied finesse of Hunter ORANGE have long been famous for cherries and shiraz is finding appeal among modern The high plateau around the flourishing city now increasingly for elegant red wines of palates seeking savoury, food-friendly reds. of Orange, 260km west of Sydney, is home to tangy acidity and textural mouth feel. The ✜ Key cellar doors: Tyrrell’s (1838 Broke an abundance of produce and wine. Defined reputation of Hilltops has been championed Road); McWilliams Mount Pleasant (401 by a minimum altitude of 600m, this is a largely by outsiders such as Clonakilla and Marrowbone Road); Brokenwood (401-427 region of cool nights and sunny days, basking McWilliams Barwang. In recent times, McDonalds Road); Small Winemakers’ Centre in intense ultraviolet light. This has the effect the best estates within the region have (426 McDonalds Road) – all in Pokolbin. of deepening colours and flavours in the established sufficient winemaker experience wines of the region, producing distinctive and vine maturity to put forward head- TUMBARUMBA and characterful wines. turning wines of their own, with more In the foothills of the Snowy Mountains, Its cool, sunny weather and wide range of great things to come. Tumbarumba is the coolest wine region in altitudes and aspects makes Orange suited ✜ Key cellar doors: Moppity Vineyards NSW. Cool climate is crucial for the to ripening everything from sparkling wines (by appointment, 02 6382 6222); Grove Estate production of premium sparkling wine and to full-bodied reds. Sauvignon blanc thrives (4100 Murringo Road, Young). A PHOTOGRAPHY: ROB SHAW/BAUERSYNDICATION.COM.AU