18 19 the Desierto De Los Leones, the Nevado De Toluca, and Volcanoes

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The april 17, 2013 >wednesday april 17, 2013 The News >wednesday 18 19 News

The Desierto de los Leones, the Nevado de Toluca, B and volcanoes Popocatépetl and Iztaccíhuatl offer hristopher C & & Y RE hikers an opportunity to enjoy nature just a few miles A C A I away from Mexico City YD PHOTOS/L By Christopher Benoit lot at the base, a paved road snakes at the Skyrace Mexiquense, two races, The Desierto de los Leones is on the outskirts of Mexico City, making it a great option for an easy day-hike. The most popular day hike at Izta starts on the Paso de Cortés, the pass that separates the two giants. and Lydia Carey up the mountain almost to the sum- one 24 (14 miles) and one 26 kilome- The News mit, which affords a stunning pan- ter (16 miles) races that include trail brooks. An 18th-century Carmelite (17,000 feet), are named after Iztac- For hard-core endurance junkies, and Puebla. A smaller cousin of the orama of central Mexico. The peak is running and “skyrunning” — running monastery holds court in the middle cíhuatl (Izta) and her warrior lover the “Sólo para Salvajes” (Only for Sav- Nevado de Toluca and Izta, it serves s much as I love the covered with heavy snow and vehicles above 6,600 feet. of the park, surrounded by around 20 Popocatépetl (Popo), the tragic he- ages) Skyrunning series hosts a half- as a good training hike. Visitors can bright chaos of urban have been banned from going past the To get there, drive toward the city small restaurants advertising lunch- roes of the Aztec version of Romeo marathon from Paso de Cortés to a stay in the Centro Vacacional La Ma- life, it’s always nice to park’s entrance, so we make the two- of Toluca from Mexico City on high- es of rabbit and trout from the nearby and Juliet. Popo is an active volca- point just above the Refugio Esper- lintzi, state-run cabins at the base of get out of the city. De- to-four hour hike to the summit on way 134 to Temascaltepec. Eighteen town of Malinalco. The main trail map no and currently closed to climbers anza and back down. The race is held the mountain. From the parking lot, spite the massive sprawl foot. We are hoping for a look at the kilometers past Toluca, turn at the at the central parking lot shows only due to frequent eruptions, but sever- in December and is attended by the head up a small trail that cuts straight Aof Mexico City, nature is relatively two freshwater lakes that sit in Xinan- sign for the Las Raíces communi- three trails, but if you drive or hike al routes on Izta are open. The most best Mexican and European moun- through the trees toward the upper close. There are dozens of options for técatl’s 1.5 kilometer-wide (1 mile) cra- ty. From there, it’s 21 kilometers (13 up the 9-kilometer (5 mile) roadway popular day hike on Izta starts on the tain runners. More information on mountain. After about 6 kilometers trekking beyond and within Mexico ter, Sun Lake and Moon Lake. miles) to Xinantécatl. that bisects the park, you’ll find un- Paso de Cortés, the pass that separates this and other mountain races near (4 miles), the trail breaks free of the City limits. Here are a few options to Flurries dust the vast pine forest marked trailheads all along the route. the two giants at 12,073 feet. Hiking or Mexico City is available at www.para- tree line and you can charge up the satisfy your inner nature-lover. on either side of the main road. Un- A quick day hike in Desierto de The park’s altitude of 2,500 to 3,700 running up the dirt road through the salvajes.com.mx. final alpine track to the summit. Izta, derbrush is scarce and we can see for los Leones meters (8,202 to 12,139 feet) makes it a thin air from the pass to the La Joya Paso de Cortés can be accessed Popo, and the largest Mexican volca- The Volcano Covered in Snow miles. The only other human sounds Desierto de los Leones is on the out- good beginning training site for bikers, refuge is a real challenge. by driving east toward Puebla, then no, Orizaba, can all be seen from the As we leave the city the sky is over- are the occasional huffing and puff- skirts of Mexico City, making it a great runners and endurance hikers. At La Joya, you can head up a south on highway 115 to Amecame- top. Again, only experienced hik- cast and chilly, but pleasant for an ing of endurance runners and cyclists option for an easy day-hike. The park You can get there by taking the trail through the volcanic sand of ca. In Amecameca, follow the signs ers should tackle La Malinche with- early Saturday morning in March. training in the mountain’s high-alti- is very popular with city residents, Mexico/Toluca highway 15 out of the the mountain passes and continue to for Paso de Cortes National Park to out a guide, and remember to travel Three friends and I are headed to- tude environment. Once we pass the who come on weekends to hike, bike city. When you reach the Mexico/To- the overnight Refugio Esperanza at a two-lane winding road that ends in prepared. ward Toluca on our way to the Xi- tree line, the wind picks up and the and picnic with their families. It cov- luca tollbooth, take the “retorno” or u- 15,944 feet. Only experienced moun- the park. Hikers can also take a bus You can reach La Malinche by nantécatl (Nahuatl for “naked man”) snow races unobstructed across The ers 1,867 hectares (4,613 acres) and turn to put you on the Toluca/Mexico tain trekkers should continue beyond from the TAPO bus terminal in Mex- heading east toward Puebla on high- volcano, otherwise known as the Nevado de Toluca’s bald upper region. is located in the Sierra de las Cruces highway. Immediately after, you’ll see this point. ico City to Amecameca, where sever- way 150D. Before reaching the city Nevado de Toluca, one of Mexico’s The views are as breathtaking as the mountain range to the west of the city. signs to your right for the park. The route affords the best vistas al “colectivo” taxis make the trip to of Puebla, turn left on highway 57 highest and most accessible moun- altitude, but after two hours of cold It is considered to be the oldest pro- in Central Mexico, and the months the pass. which leads to highway 117 to Apiza- tain peaks. At the entrance to the we decide to save the summit for a tected biosphere in Mexico. Trekking on the “slopes” of the from November to March are best if co. Past the town of Apizaco, follow 51,000-hectare (126,023-acre) park, warmer day. Meanwhile, our endur- Insect infestations, air pollution sleeping lovers you want to avoid bad weather. Always Summiting La Malinche signs for “Centro Vacacional IMSS La a light snow is falling, blanketing ev- ance runner friend has already lapped and animal grazing have damaged the Mexico City sits under two hulk- travel with a first-aid kit, extra layers Another volcano hike lies just east of Malintzi.” Non-drivers should take a erything with a stillness interrupted the rest of us, making it to the top and park and its wildlife, but the Desier- ing volcanoes that slope down to the of clothing, and plenty of water. Hire Izta and Popo. La Malinche, standing bus from the TAPO to Huamantla or only by the crunch of snow and ice back. The snow will be mostly melted to de los Leones remains a dense pine outskirts of the city. The volcanoes, a guide for your first foray onto the over 14,501 feet, dominates the coun- Apizaco, then transfer to a colectivo under our boots. From the parking by April, when the park hosts runners forest with many lovely streams and whose peaks rise over 5,200 meters mountain. tryside near the border of Tlaxcala to the Centro Vacacional. At the Nevado de Toluca, flurries dust the vast pine forest on either side of the main road.