mn urn i^icom lAtiu^kmnicm wnm

EAHBAHA htm HAWK, kS^lS. in H.K.

A THESIS

in chmmm mn tEXTiLss

$\tls>]^ttad to tha araduata FaouXty of faxaa TaahnoXogioaX CoXXaga in rartiaX ruXfiXXi»ant of tha Raqttirawanta for tlia Pagraa of

Approvad

'Cliiiir»an of feha Co^lttaa

Aeoaptad

t^an of iba SraduaJbTa !l6hooI

AurnUJat, X966/ ({^Cfi'OTi^.B

so u T3 o

c - >'>u

ACKMO^LKDCIfm^TS

t aa daapXy indabtad to &r« Qeni^ ShaXdan for har diraeticm of tuia tiiaais and to V^T* Ann 0untin, who ^9r^%^ mi my eo»^ittaa« Othars irhoaa haXp «raa eaaantiaX to tha sueeaaa of this study arat tiart^ara SoomiarviXXa, Sxaautiva Diraator of CSuadaXupa Contort Connia WiXXiama, instructor at llot>art ^anaa SahooXi Juanita HaXXbarg, iaatruotor at laliaXX PowaXX Univaraity of Baautys Hisa LoXa Draw and har advanead aquipmant atudants, Sua HoXXingaworth and Karon Totsfhordof and othar ooXXaga atudanta, CaroXyn Andraa, Janat Haupin, and ICathy MaCarty, My appraeiation is aatandad to lira* Auhray EoaaaXX, Diatriot 5uparviaor, Cooparativa Extanaion Sarvica in Taxaai eXothing spaaiaX-- ista of tha FadaraX Extanaion Sarvioa, Taxas; and other atata Extanaion ^arviaoa.

ii TABLE 0? conum'^s

Faro ACKHOtfLEmiMBNtS »*•.*•»««»#.••«•.•« ii U5T OF TASJU^ • * • • • « V Chaptor I. intmmGfxon • • • « ••••••• x Soopa of FroOXaai ••••••»•«•»•• 5 C^Jaotivaa •••••••••••••«•• 6 l^finition of f9vm» •••••*•«••»• 7 Limitations and Conditions of itudy • « • « 8 XI. i^nE« OF Lit^mwm . • • * » • 9 JUatiii«»Aiaarioan CuXtura ••«••••••• 9 HiatorieaX ^aoligroitnd of l^tin Anariaana In tha Unitad Stataa • • • • • XO tatin«»AaariaaA FopuXation ••••••• X7 Eduaation •»•••••••••»••• X9 Inooi«» ••«•••••••«••*••• 20 OanaraX Oharaotariatiea •••»»*•• 2X Th9 OuXtura of Fovarty «••»• 2C lilhat la Fovarty • •••••• 26 tfhara Ara tha Foor •«• •• 29 Charaotariatios of Low Ineo»a FaopXa 30

iii iv

Faga FayehoXogy of Draaa and Appaaranea * • • 35 of Color •*••*•• 4X

Fashion fharapy • ••*•••• 42 Eduoatio«iaX Frograsia ^3 duadaXupa Cantar *3 Exparianaaa in Clothing and taxtiXaa Frograna for tha Maadvantagad « • IsipXi oat ions Drawn from titaratura • 50 52

III* FMOOSI^imE «««»a«>«*««M>**»« FXIIDIII03 •**•»•»•«*«••#•• 58 conawBiom Am mcmnmmtxmB • * • *

OonaXualona • « # • • • • • • • 96 EaooitiNiindationa »*•«••••••• XOX LIST OF HIFEBEIfCEa »••»•*•••«•••• X03

AFrl»lfPlA «*«*»«»tt»»w •«•••••« • « X08 LIST OF TA0IJ3

TabXa Faga X« FaraonaX Information Ooneaming B^y^nt^mn Latin**Anarloan Wostan and Thair FamiXias, Uibbook, t^xaa **«••••*•••••••, 39 2* iiouaing and FaraonaX Foasasaiona of a Group of Latin Aiaariaan FaasiXiaa 62 3* Haaraatien of Savantaan Latin^A^oriaan Woasan, LtibtMotolc, Taxaa ••*••••••«••• 68 %• Laundry Fraatioas of Savantaen Latin«» AsM^riear! ytmmn •••*•«•••«•*••*• 7X 5# Attltudaa about CXothingj in a Qrour of Latin-Amarioan Woa#n •••••«••••••• 73 6* Attandanaa at CXaasas for Latin«»Amariean l^oi^an «•••••»••*•••«••••••• 80 7, Laaaona **Hoat Bn$oy0^ and •Moat UaafuX* Aa SaXaetad by a c^roup of Latin«-AiiMiriaan Mmmn ••••••«•••«*••«•••••• 84 i« Diaouaaion of Laaaona by Class Hatibara with Othar Individuals or Sroupa • • • 90 9* Statad Intaraat in Laaaon fopiaa by a C3roup of Latin«-A2^riawFi Wotaan 93 CHAFTKH I

<3ivt sm your tlrad, your poor, tour huddXad inasaaa yaaming to braatha fraa, tha wratahad refuaa of yoiir taaiain^ ahora, $%n4 thaaa, tha homaXass, tai^aat«»toaaad| to isat I lift fiiy iaap baaida tha goXdan door* Ci3 Tha appXioation of this inaeription on tha 3tatua of Liberty, Mmw fork Harbor, eouXd parhaps nswe as a 6ataXyat<*««i!iixad with Urban EanaifaX Frograma, tha War on Fovarty, and othar prograsia for tha sooiaXXy diaadvan- tagad««»to atiauXata individual and group intaraat and aation tonard aaaapting raaponaibiXlty in tha probXom of povarty* In his addraas to Congraas, Maroh X7, X964, Fresi- dant Lyndon B* Johnson apoka of tha *^ar on Fovarty.** Ha atatad that our national goal is to ^provide avary aitix«n irith opportunity to advanea his waXfar^ to tha limit of hia oapabiXitiaa*** Ha ohaXXangad oosaaunitiaa to mobiXisa thair raaouraaa to co:a{?at povarty through coaiaunity action pro^raas £2}* A groat daaX of a^phaais is baing pXaoad on this "I'ar on Fovarty* by suiny profassions and ornanisations. It is a aubjaot disouaaad daily in navspapars, ma^aainss, radio «md taXaviaion; thus it ia baforo tha pubXle eenstantXy* f9^ dany tha datri«^ntaX affaats of povarty, but a«iiy quastion how boat to appi'oaoh tha probXam* Hany p99pX0 who ara baing puahad into Xeadarahip roXaa ara finding thai^aaXvaa with no baaleground knowXadi^a of how or who ra to bai^in* In urban davaXopmant programa, taarin^ down slums has prormn to ba inauffioiant in oonquaring tha poverty probXam* DuhX and Chayaa ahaXXangas This baaioaXXy is what tha war against povarty ia aXX about«*«*a daaiai

la mmj araaa tha prokXitm of povarty ia im^0 mora aauta or aoi^Xax by a largo nuaibar of forai^ bom and thair offspring* this ia trua in tha Southwoat whara thara is a Xarga nxmb^r of Latin Aaarioans with low inaoi»aa* Low inooaa Latin Ameriaana not only poaaasa »any of tha aharaatariatica of tha "ouXtura of povarty," but aXao ara pv<^4ue%B of tha llispanie culture which is quite diffarant from that of tha Anglo-'^axons* In X929, Varda iXlaabeth lilaton wrotat fha ^axioan pr<^Xa«s on tha Bouth FXains Is a Xiva and growing probXan that tha paopXa of tha 3outh FXains of faxaa ara going to ba foroad to faca in tha naar futura m^ tha soonar aXX ara swara of thia px^bXai^ and stops ara takan to eopa with tha situa* tion tha mora quiakXy thia partiauXar phaaa of tha raoa probXais wiXX ba aatiafaetorlXy sattXad for both tha aitieana that ara of tha Latin raoa in Maxiao and our 0mi pro dominant Xy AfigXo«»3axon race* [u] AXthoui;:h ^Uas Hint on inoorraatXy aXaaaaa tna Latins aa a raoa apart, har statanant is as raXavant today aa it was whan aha wrota it* The Latin«-A«arioan population is rapidly incraasing in thia araa, aXonc! with tha prob- Xais it broads* Dua to tha ineraaaad oaphaaia pXaaad on tha "¥ar againat Fovarty," tha author has found that har dutias as a hmm <9aonoRsist for tha Cooparativa Extension Sarviea inaXudad work with tha "undan rlvlXotad" or aociaXXy dis"* advantagad* Baoauaa of p9r9imitLX intarast mi6 Xaok of imowXadga and exp^ri^nm in worRinE- with Xow Incosia Latin- A»ariaan woman, tha author ohoaa a i>robXam whlah would hmlp to inoraaaa har aoa^atanaa in aueh woHt* The prob- Xaia was to davaXop furtliar undaratanding of motivational prooadur^a to h% uaad with Xow inaorm Latin<*Amariean famiXiaa, to identify probXams and ni&9iSi& of Xow inoosi^a Latin«*Aaiarioan fa»dXiaa which eouXd be allaviatad to aofsa axtant by an aduoationaX program in tha fiaXd of aXothiner and taxtiXaa, and to ^^'9iil^p a plan to atiaiuXata thair intaraat in is^roving thair appaaranaa and oXothing situations* In ordar for a horn© aeonomist to provlda frduoa«* tionaX programa for Latln-Asiaric&n woeian of Xow inoona situations, baokf^^romd infcrfaation is n9%d9iSLm Haadinta in anthropoXoiy, soeioXogy, and psyGhoXof;y provi^sa a aar- tain amount of undaratandini: or probXama invoXvad in planning aUueationaX prograas for thasa wowan and rlva sosta inaight into thair attitudaa, ouXturaX ha'Jita, and atandarda of living* No afiiount of raading, howavar, aan Bubstituta for aetuaX axparlanco in working with aotuaX paopXa and visiting In thair howaa* Ho amount of raadinfr aan oraata for ona trua paraaption of how tha Xow inooma Latin Amarioana Xiva, thair attitudaa toward thair sltua** tions, and thair hopas and daapaira* An important quaa- tion l»-^ean ona who has boon bom ^nd raarad in a iiiiddXa*«cXaas Anglo euXturo m'^^t' truly understand tha auXtura of povartyt fi?m baaleground for davaXopint this probXam inoXudad raadln^a inj (X) tha ouXtura of povarty, <2) tha Latin«-A]jiariaan ouXtura, (3) tha payohoXogioaX affeeta of aXothing and paraonaX appaaranaa and thair poaaibXa tharapautle values•

Scopa of FrobXaai Aftar a survey of the abova ritantiiMnad Xitaratura, tha author aontactad tha diraator of CluadaXupa llaiifhbor- hood Cmntmr (Lubbooic, Taxas) r-ftardlng tha ponsibtXlty of workini?; with a group of woflsan thara. tha oantar ia Xoeatad in an aroa of Xow inaof^ Latln-A«?ari6an ""niiliaa, The diraator of t.»>*^ oantar waXeoiswd th^ writar^a Intarost in thasa paopXa and har au^raatiorii that aim nXan eXasaas for tha wonan* Ttiroui^h intarviawa bafor© and aftar tha eXassea tha writer gainad inai^^ht into soma of tha naada and attl­ tudaa of Xow inoofsa Lotin-Aciarlean woi»an« Tha writar proaantad a sariaa of fiva eXassas on parsonaX l^>paaranea to ^roupa of Xow inooioa Latin^Amarioan woman* tha ovar«aXX objaativo of the sarias was to atisiu- Xata intaraat a»ong tha Xow inooma Latiri Asaarioans in iaprovinc t'.i^lr aXothiiig situations* lio attampt was aada to giva training in dapth* 4ha Xasxona uaad by tha writar inoXudad aiatpXa points to haXp ttm Latin«>American wosaan at thair prosant point of davaXopmerit and to give a broad viaw of othar oubjacta thay might «fl&h to X(»^rn in dapth, at a latar tima* It ia hopad that, aftt^r iJS;proving thair appearaaea, thay wiXX h^va 4av«Xopad a&ough stXiVoonfidanca and prlda in thasiaaXvaa to bagin to It^iprova thair hoa«» situations ir; othar wayt also*

aolivaa fha ovar«»aXX purposa of thia study was to gain an undariftanrfing of Xow l?%coaa Latln-^Aniarican women—«o«i«> of thair probXfiai, na«?d3, and intaraat a, and ^Boti^atlonaX procadurta to ba ustd with low inco«i« Lati.i At^rlcins* To ^va diraatlori to thl«i •ExpariJ»«ntaX Program in Per­ sonal IisprovasBont for Low Inooaia Latin-Atrarican Woui^n,* savaraX objaotiv^^ war® tormulnti^t X* To survjy litoratura in order to d«vsXop an undaratandine of a. tha Latin-Amari-an cuXturt; b* tha ouXturo of povarty; a* tha payohoXogieaX affaots of aXothing and paraonaX appaaranaa and thair poaaibXa tharapautic vaXuaa* 2* To plan a aariaa of eXaaaao to atimuXata intaz!^at a^oong tha Xow inooma Latin Aiaarioana in iKprovinig thair appaaranaa and clothing situations* 3* To tost tha affactivanaas of thia serias of oXaaaas by praaenting them to groups of Xow inooisa Latin«»Aiaarioan wooden*

Doflnltion of Taraa Sinoa writtan ooidsunioation ia dapandant upon V worda aXona, it is itzportant that br^th raadar and writar intarprat aartain tamia In thin stud}? in tha sama way« fharatora, a faw dafinitions are neceaaary: i. Fovarty *- Tha poor art* tiiose whose basic and irradueibXa noada excecici their snauna to satisfy thasi,*' [73 Fovpain, ?^iexico, or Latin-Amarioan countriaa* Bo^fe apoak f5|ianlf?5j others, Enr- ilah; an*? »or?a spaisk both liuiv^uages* Soma ara citisen" of th<> lln^tad States; r^thara ara not •

Limitations and Conditions of ' tudy Thia study is siO^Jaativa, daaXing with ^^opXn^ thair raaationa, and thair faaXinga* Findini^a ara basad up«m raadin^s, upon opinicma and attitudaa oxprasaad by tha awaXX nujsbar of i^oman in tha «ipari»antaX fTOups, and upon tha axtant of thair f*roMp partiaipation. Sinoa attitudaa, vaXuas, mental aapacitias, and aaotionaX XavaX® vary aT.on.f individuals in any group, no attaiapt has boon issndt to sat forth anything but tha author*$ Intarprotations of g^nara* gui^as to wh^t aha found uaafttX or *rTC-aningful in thfiS study. CHAPTEH II

m:vim OF LttEmtvm

Latin**Aigi^ri oan Culturo Latin AKiarieans ara tho Xar^foat ethnic ^roup in tha 0nit«ti Statas with a Xanguar® othar thim Cn-f-lish aa its mothar tongua* llith tha axaaption of tha Indian iUsarieana, thia is tha only auoh athnio ftroup that is inoraaaing rathar than daaXininft in numbars. Haaaona for this ineraasa inaXuda high birth rata of $paniah«»Amarioan roaidanta, «^uota<-*fraa iaimigration, and aXownaaa of tha integrating prooaaa C®]» llaaaXdan statasi Spanish Aisarieana ara, noxt to ^tf^^fymn^ th#» wacond Xargeat diatlng«ishabXa minority in tha United Statas* fhmf ara not a hoito^anooua peopXo, but thara ara grounds on whioh thay can bo olasaifiad aa an ethnic anoXave within Ai^rioan aoeiaty* tB3 fht^ following ara tha prinoipaX Latin«»AEif riofin subgroupa in tha llnitad Stataas (X) Ifaxlean Amaricans, (?) dascend- ants of Spanish coXwiiats (Hlapanos), (3) Fuarto Hicanu, and (1) Cubans. Ona should not ba ffulXty of fltar«iotyplnr aXX of thasa ftroupa tofathar C®3» Variad tarrsa tra used as nowanclatur* for Latin Amariaana, differin?^ rajjrionaXXy to soe^a extent, and anong

9 XO authoritiaa, HaaaXdan*s view of thia ^ubjaet is thiat aXthoui^ "Spanish Amarioan** is somewhat inadequate, it seams tha bast of other choleaa, *TUc noun in tha term—» *AsM»rioan0***«*ia frieiidXy and inaXuaive; tho adjeotive-- *Spaniah**«»^vea to tha noun a proper, ganaraXXy aeeept- abXa, inoffensive, athnio definition**" C^] SauncSera [9] uaea the term *Spanif5h*»apaakin|!r people," aXthourh »any in that i?roup apeaic no Spanish* fhe term used predoi^^dnantXy in Lubbook and West ia "Latin A»«rioan*** Tnerefore, in keeping with regional ouatom, thia ia the tersi used throufhout this paper*

.gistorioaX baek^iyoun^i of tiuiin i^-Rier^eana ..in '%k» United states It is neaeaoary to understand the ouXture of the Latin Aaericana before con®truetlve proi,rtm» can be doveXopad to help ther^.. l^af3eXo3 to clofine what Latin Asneri^'ir.s rio' and austOD^s, «uid to identify with their probXena and aapira- tiona*" 1X0} In CuXturaX DilTerenoep and .•'a^ditfal Caru, UT» LyXe 3aunders sett^ forth infon^atlon pertinent to educat^ora, to XX aoaioXoglata, and to doatora* Pr« 3aundara aaserta that tha praotiaa of tiedioine ia a aooiaX aetlvityi oartainXy taaahinf is aXao* It tthm praetiee of medieine] involves interaction between two or mor^ soeiaXXy o^iditioned huiian beinga. Furthanaore, it takes pXaoe within a aoaiaX system that dafinaa the roXea of tlie participanta, speeifies the kinds of behavior appropriate to eaeh of these roXea, and provides tha eats of value in terss of whieh the partioipanta are ?iotiv^ted* The Wv^i^y anyone behaves on either aide of the tharaptutio reXationahip is in part a function of his understr^ding of hia aoaiaX roXa in that situation and of tha kind of behavior that is pr^p&r for it* Mh^n pmmtmtk of widely dissistilar euXturaX or aub"* cuXturaX orientations ay*e brouitht togeti}.*r in a thera«» pautio reXationahip, the probability of ssutuaXXy aatiafaofeory outcome may be ineraaaad if those in heaXint roXaa know aoaathing of their own ouXtura and that of the patient and are aware of the extent to whioh behavior on both aides of tho raXationship ia influanoe^i by euXturaX faetors* An even iilgher proba** biXity of aatiafaotion my result if the profeaslonaX paopXa are willing and abXa to ^noaify aXei^nta fro«i their isediaine so m to maHa them fit the expectationa of the Xaynan with whom they are worltini;* C^j interaetion of the EngXish«apaalcing profea«» sional worker i^d the %anlah««speeking. Xaymazi ia haiapered by different soaiaX ayato»a and different euXtures* They define their roXea dlfferentXys they o^i^idar different kinda of behavior appropriate in tha iituatiem, and evaluate its various ooe&ponenta differently [f3* ^r* Baimdera esiphaaiaea that i&nowXadge and akiXXa are of XittXa value, unXesa thay are uaed* And they ean only be uaed In and through a aooiaX relationship, or an interXoeking aariaa of reXationshipo C9l» X2

The Latin AsMirieana in the Southwest ahare a dis«» tinetive ouXture, to some extent, and thia culture hais a definite influence upon their behavior. IThis r^oup ia not an eaay ona to define, howavar, slnae it is made up of subgroups whioh differ with one another. There se^ns to be no aingXa criterion bjr ^mioh they can be distin­ guished. They are not exaetXy a racial iroup, nor are they a nationality group* Many ,tre Uaitca iitatcs citi- aena Jiy birth i^n.

There are thrjj ^ajor subgroiups In the 3guthwjit, eaoh having oo;^ .'hat dietliictive genetic mnd cultural charaeteristlea* 'launders CS^I rta«e» and Oeficrlbes triase sut)5'roups: (X) •'Spanish .^'mrXctan^^^ (2) **r!exlcan Ameri­ cans,•* and (3) "H'^xicsn**" 'rneae t©rss;r. rrad others (»uc^. aa Latin Am«?riean) art-' intercJiian.^;ed Xooaeiy in tho £Jouth- weot to indicate theae people* 'ihe "Spanish Asiericans'* ere* descendants or colo­ nists who laoved behind the pr^ts&tn an« doXcisira of carXior expedition© into tne area which ia now t.ie Southwest, the firsl eoXoniST. s caiae iato the ar«& in X5J?5» Coioniaation was »lo*r, iwid 250 yoitrti aftex* the founding of the first comJiunity at San Qtbriel, there were only about 6J,000 Spa£iish«ape.akitis people in the area, living mainly in sataXl, hl,:hly aelf-suffieient agricultural coiaiT^unities, In the early years of settlement, th« proportion of wo^t^an to mmi was ^uite low, and wives were v»dught among the Indian populations of the region* A& the co^amiitles incretaed in number and population, it became poaaibXe to obtain a wife either within one^s own comiaunity or in a aisiiXar one, and the practice of taking wives frops the Indians gradually diminished* Xntermarrlef.e *ilth An^-^Xos has hii%n reXativaXjf ai^aXX* Therefore, the "Spanish Amerioan** of today is the ft^aetic descendant of at least two population stocks—tho people of sixteenth and 1^ seventeenth century Spain and t^^w Spsla, and the ladi&i inhabitants [93* fac* ^pani.»h Ai^ericans of todar, evan whtn livlnt; in Anglo urban environments, still retain some of the cultural oliaractsrlatlca developed ia the '^ilX^^o^ of Mew Mexico and Southern Colorado, to underatand them, one muut know aoiaothliu,: of vlXXage life. [9J The noat outJ^tsiidin;*: charaoteriif^tio of these vli- Xage© i^ais their isolation, ' tlrily dutj to lack of trana- portatloa atid tijeir owi, econonlc unimj^'^.vftnnae. Since the^e villages were e-joacirao^lly ;aelf-aufflclent, trade within -xiid between soamanitlee wa» at^^iii* Very X!.ttXe »cmey existed* :.

>o the viXXaii®3 continued g«noration aftar genera­ tion* ?he oXd ways worked; Innovation nlijht net. It was battar to be safe* Therefore, Qhang% of any sort caea to be fearful aii<1 mlet rusted. Xn the culture trie re was little place for personal initiative or private aggreaaivenessB, O-ae acquired status, ^restitce, and esteem by oonforming to oomisunity sxpectations. * • * rha prlvileires were few, but ao vri^r© tha respOTi.-tI- bilities. C93 Education was largely a rustttir of informal indoc­ trination, as they had few schools* Att^ation WAS focused on the present. ?hey did each day wnat neeawr; to ae dona* If a crisis appeared, they all faced it together—•no one ever faced a crisis aXoae.* fhe patrofi was always t;i«»re to help Ci)l» When the Southwest beoaine a part of tiie Onited State®, ch'ane;es began for the^e peorXe. Little b7 XittXe they foun.d it necessary to *T:^errite tacausr of necessity for aupplies end services, f^'ot er\oui;h resources -v-ere avslXafcXe for thuja durlnr th€ d<»preaslon in tr.e 1930*ti. The .^cvemfient gEve thess w-airsre sic!, ^ifmy of then arc atiXX rec^lvini it today [93. "Hextcrj-. Anrricaris** ar® similar to the *';pfenlj/'L Aciericana,** 'sxcw|;t tftat th« for^isr probatly deilveci Ciore physic&X chariicteriiitics froia tDe Indiaj»&. Both cira cultural descendant© of tr.^ villa^.e way of life in which eharacteriiStics of ti^gres^ion, oor^pe- tltlon, itidlvidual resporu^it^lilty, ant. Ir.itiatlvfr *ere not highly developed and in «hich acceptance, rcsifrna- tioA, ccopcr&tion, a^*d th* iut^orCiaaition of the InU- vidual to the conir;»unity grou^ were eriphaaixed. 1^

Lut the •'Spanlrh-Afecrlcena** beceLr.r clt-fgene of the United Statea bf military conquest, whioh Involved no initiative on their part, no 1? neJiate necessity to chance their way of living, and no break with their wulturui trciditlcna t-r (^hnnre ir* '-.h^iv fltcfi cf resi­ dence ^^ whereas the *Mextoea-Ai»erlcans'' are people v?ho it^ft tht*ir faridliar surrounc^in^rs en th^lr Inei^'l'uual volition and riave come to live in an &Jlen land. [93 i'^rom 1900 to 1930, nearly 10 per cant of the total population of #fexico-—rouf*hly a isilXion peopX€i-»-er^tered the United 3tatea, estimates ^^cWllXiaias. *4cait cf t.^ieso iamigrants aettled alon^ the border of :>i&xico and the United St«itftj&* ihe fr*aj©rity af the Mexicar* l«a?tirranta who came to the United States w@r« frosi central liexlcan states which are atiXX rural, and fro.^* agrtcultur"! villages of less than 25^50 pof-'Ulation. With the© they brous:ht their own problema of superstition, poverty, disease, and l:5^no- ranoe. fhey jitet isany additional problewa ijtoludint;; raj^'^c- tioas, inciifferences*, ner.lect, and ey^ploitation [Xl]. T*wo ??taln factor^ have helped to cushion i le cul­ tural iihock for th0 Hexican Aia^irlcana: (1) the'/ t©nd to live elo^e to the bortl'^^r *fhere uhey have accei^s to re.«ala4er3 of hor/^o—newcoi'^era, Mexican ysovlcs, radio pro- grttjsss, newapapera, coral ; booxs, picture ^*a:-'asln«s, foo<^s, arid manufactured products of their native ooi*ntry; (?.) tiiey tend to seek th€ir own kind an4 live together in saparate, distinguiahabie neii;hborhooda iiod cc amuilty rroupa, in wUiah t?^e opportunity for interr\ction Alt' other Mexican-Americans is multiplied and the necessity for RiiUi^iini; with Anglos oon'ildt'rr.bly rot.iuce't. To] X7

Hany have baaofita sd^ranta. l$oat lack aklXXa* Their ahlXdran "Xlve between two worlds** [9] •Haaleans,* bioXogieaXly and ouXturaXXy, ara aiisi- Xar to both othar groi^a* Host of theis ttre in the United Stataa either iXXogaXXy or, as in tha ease of agricuXturaX eontraat workers, on tanporaiir permita* In general, thay expect to return to Hexioo* Moat are funetionaXXy iXXit* arata and faw apeak EniXiah weXX* ftmf are asostXy agri- cuXturaX workers C9}«

Latin-Aiaeriean popuXation fhe reader is reminded that, while various writers use different tenaa to daaeribe these people, the author has ohoaan to conform with XoeaX Southwest tradition by uain^ 'Latin Aaarioan.** By the middle yaara of the twentieth century there were approxisiateXy five and ona-haXf miXXion Latin Amerieana In the lilted States* fhe i^reataat number of thees were native bom rather than itmigranta, MaaeXden estimatea [S]. Ona reason it ia diffiouXt to obtain accurate figures on these people ia that tha census does not list Latin Anari- cans aaparateXy; therefore, aatii^tea must be derived largely from the Spanish auma^«a CX2 3* 7h9 difficulty in securing an aeeurate account ia also due to the drifting of Spanish A8M»rieana into the euiinatrea» of Acsorican Xifa. * • * This drift robs us of statistics but ia evidence of the bwginnind; of a whoXasosMi integration* [8] X8

Tha Latin-Anariean popuXation tends to be mobile* ApproxiaateXy 500,9d0 migrants travel throughout tha country eaoh year to work in fiaXda* There has been a naasive silgratlon of thaaa people away froei tha border atatea to Colorado, "where the need for *stoop labor* has drawn 100,000 Mexican Aisericana*" [$3 Latin Asaricans are begiuning to gravitate toward urban centara in aome areas, in aeareh of atspXoysnant and a better life. fhe Latln-Amariaan population tends to be concen­ trated near tha borders of Texas, Colorado, Uew Mexico, Ariaona, and CaXifomla* So»a count lea are more than 75 p9r cent Latin Jueeriaan [83* Aecordinig to Saunders [9], tha Latin-American population in tha abova Southweatem stataa numbara about two and ona-haXf to three million parsons—about one-tenth of the total popuXation of these atatea* fhe number of Latia«A»erican individuaXs in tha state of faxaa eo]s$»rises one-sixth of tha atate*s total popuXation C^J* Keaearah shews that famiXiea with Spanish surnames in taxas Brm inareasia^ at a faater rata than those of othar ethnic groups ia Texas* Fro« 1950 to i960 there was a 38 per eont gain in the population with Span- iah aumaises Cl^l* Acaording to tha X960 census, the population of the city of Lubbock nuiabered X28,6$Xi of that nunber, XX,642 (9*05 per cent) had Spanish aumawwa [13l* Special 19 problems have bean broui^t about, for many years, by siigrant auriouXture workera who ooisa to the Lubboek area each faXX* rne faxaa Employment Coi^^isaion several years ago pXaeed the nuaber of taigrant workera in thia area at a ttinimuts of 10,000 with aa wamf aa 20,000 at tiisea [14]* In 1964, there were an estisNEitad 1,800 migrants in Lubbock County, and 7,TS0 aeaaonaX farss laborers* ^lany of thaae who now reaida in Lubbock were for»erXy sagrant workers; fsany of them are Latin Ai^rlcan CX43* Birth rates indieate that the Latin-Assarlcan popu­ Xation of Lubboek is on the increase. One-fourth of the births in Lubbock in X$$H were Latin American. In 1956, Latin*»Aisarieim births constituted only one-fifth of tha total for Lubboek £X43. the Inoraaae of the Letin-American population in Lubbock; is verified hy the increase in Latin Aaierioana in the pubXie aohooXa* Frosi X943 to X963i the percentaee of Latin Asaaricans enrolled in tha Lubbock FubXic SehooXs increased fron 3*20 to 14.pi [X43« iduaaticgi mmmntmmmmtmmmmmm there appears to be a definite trtrnd upward in educational attainment of Latin Americans* In Texas in I960, p^rBonn twenty-five yaara of a«e and over with Spanin*! aumaisfls had a median of 6*1 t^radea coRplatot! (oonpared with tha 1990 median of 3*6) [12]* However, 20 with each suaaaedlng year of school tha percentage of Latin-American enroXXstant dacraaaaa* Of those enroXXing in tha first grade (X963«»64), 2^*36 ptr cent were Latins, whiXe only X9*3X p^r cent of the second ^,r»^^m were Latin Atterican* Latin Aisariaans eon^rised only 6*S6 par cent of the ninth tFada and a ssare 3.53 per cent of tne tenth grade* (A oajor drop-out tiste is tha break between Junior and senior high aehooX—between ninth and tenth grades.) Thoae enroXXad in tha twelfth Erade numbered cmXy 2*06 per cent. Latin As^rioana envoXXis^ in apecial education elaaaes esada li^ ona^third of the total figure [X3]* 'rhia high peroentafe in apeciaX education eXaases may weXX be dua in pert to the Xangua^ profcXecs which many Latin- Aiaerican ehiXdren experience in repiXar cXaases*

|neo»e fhe median incoase {X960) for Texas famiXies with Spafiiah sumaseea was #2,9X3- Browninfj and MeLesJore Xiat the following pereantagea of fasiiXles with Spanish sur- nai^s in the foXXowing Xow-incosie categories [X2]t

under *X,000 (annuaXXy) - X3»6 p^r cant X,000 - 2,999 •• 38.0 ntr cent 3,000 - 4,999 - 26.8 per cent

h Xante proportion of the L?.tlr-American popuXa­ tion seams to be in finanelaX need, as sho#n by records of public arenaies. One-third to one-haXf of the welfare ?1 cases in Lubbock in 19^4 ware Latin American C15]* ^he 1964 aaaa load of the Well-Baby Clinic was 63.73 per cent Latin Awariean tl33t Welfare atatiatics revealed 26*4i par cant of tha fswadlles aided by th« 19^3 Chriatrns Clearance Bureau were Latin American. The Catholic i^el- fare Bureau estlniated that 9S per cent of its r)€k ease load waa Latin Aawirican, while tae City-County Welfare cose load waa eatir^ated to be 35 p%r cent Latin American in 1964* The f>aXvation Ar»»y showed that in 1964 Family Welfare aid went to 42.Ij per cent Latin ^erlcane, while the Clothing Center servicea were TO*73 p^r cant for Latin Aeiarieans [XJ]*

OeneraX eharaetariatieg FrobabXy the primary need of aXX human beinifs is the nmm4 to be aaaapted. the Latin American is "a »an suspended between two cultures,* Spanish and English. His background, or that of his immediate anceators, is a simple, relatively sXowXy paced, tii^itly knit viXXage Xife, while his new environssant 1® coispXes, fast stovim^, and imperscmal uH>s^ Xife* Each lures hiii and has cXalxui upon him. *Ma haft broken with the old but has not been accepted by the new; he has not received but he has not bean received but he has nothing to return to." Unless he can receive a sincere welcome from soe^eone, fror. some group beyond hia ethnio circle, he cannot break out of 22 this trap* "Security within his own ^roup, resiatanoe froia bey

ufiaotiona govern many of the attitydes and acts of the Letin-A»ierlean ,>eopXe* T0 them friendship is very serious—:iot uiaply a social and passiris; reiatioaahip. *Frieac;j;aip ia al^^Xy chargtJd witn eaotlonal content- meaning loyalty, love, iaterdepdndence, ^nd a 4eep sense of mutual responsibility.* Suca tri&n(Xsntp9 often l^jad ^^^® oop^padrasso (Ko^fatherhood), aousiaered to s>e a *«en- eroua, nobXe ^\d i>eautifuX reXationahip.* Oor^ikdr^zz is a asaana of extending tne fsnily which is the pivot struc­ ture of tneir society* Duties of the godfatn^r, i. ^driao, and fTodwother, ^aadrina, are taken seriously £16]. Spanish people always diaaXaiis aciy beXief in the saying *buaineas is businaaa** A friend ia one to whom preferential treati»ent ii> always ».;lven if the occasion artaea, not only in social life but in buai- ness, political, private, and public life. [163 Otia thing r%ry difficult for Latin-American people to accept is the separation of a loved one, whether it be a relative or friend. Farents wiXX not send their ahlX­ dran away to coXXege unless it is absoXuteXy necesaary, nor do they like to have a family memtier stay in the hos­ pital, aa the place for them la home* Faj;«ilies are cloaa- knlt, with ** * • spirit of devotion, respect, t«nder love, a sense of obligation to one another, and liutuaX dapandenea** Farents often encourage, perhapa even insist, that ahiXdx>en stay in the saete town when they marry. l4ewXy narried aoupXes often atay with one set of parents 24 uncil financiaiXy indepeneefit* In tiaeni cf crisis, it ia tor*siut8red a duty for fcaeubers of fc. faiiily to assist one ui:iother by ahari^a; resources. In timrjs cl Cej^rcs^sion, very often lui^t faiBill*«8 COKC togeti*er (parenta, chll- oreii, and fc»ranachilurefi) to satire a cor^ofi houaetclU and to pool their la«©ue*> C^^>1» OXd ace r*€ver aetfae to te ti problc*.: with Latin Aneric&ma, accordiins to Hartluet* ilic Latin-iir**^risen claft'ro have a prlvilegaG |,osiltior*. ^'*hey are ayiiibolii cf the family, af*d often the t lildrtm will arjgiue among ther- aelvea over the riijit to have their partjuts with thesi* "It is a prlvilace and a queatiori of honor to fts*u»« tht responsibility tf otie»«; if^renta during their itolden yeai^** Spanish children are taught froti a vary early age to treat the elder as a sy^t>oX of ro&pect* Xn the Latin-Aaierican family, the elder is considered "a source of wiadcm and a sytiboX of authority.* [X6] fhe father ia daflnlteXy the declsion-»aker of the faadXy* Ha negotiates with outsiders. Internal diaoipXina and direction of the family are Xaft to the taothar. "It is an unwritten law that a Spaniah wife will neviar sign a paper, buy anything, or consent to any social obligation for any othar uett^er of the fasiiXy without con­ sultation with the ^an of the house** This ie done as a Mll5n of respect, not out of subEiiosion or fear* Vttw cher­ ishes her dependenoy upon him [16]* 35

*th9 Spanish people excel in the arts -if hur.an relations J their sincerity and court^s/ are proverbial,* contends Haartinea. To be completely accurate, liovt^vsr, it >iust be state*! that Jpanish courtesy, like Spanish friendship, Jjas iua weakjiess, Martin«2 continues, *It is woll known that a SpanlJird will accept practically all social invltatlois 'Just to be nice,* ^>ven ^h^n AO knows le i^ not gnlnjTj to be '\bl'j to att«nd.* lie aeemss to fin.1 It dirfieult to ueline one *nf:jur;;i to invite him** Ha UXl, instead, accept ^^ith ai *X will trj* prc??5i»a, ev#n thou^-h h» has no intentIcn of keepinip it. *He ^oa-;i not think of the aurt f^»elins^ there will be when he do^»s not appear at the ti«e fttpccted** [15] A sense ?>r r>er'5 7nsl dimity (allowing for a:tcer>- tiona) i«} vmry strong for most Latin Americann, no matter how Xow on the social ladder. He feels deeply all *affront» to his person.* [9] Social workers and educa­ tors auat certainly exerQloe diplofsacy in their contacts with these people—aa with anyone* Brown aeta forth thia susisfjary of ch iraoteriatics of Latin Af^ifricansi 1, Mexican culture isi p^^sent oriented; the faeiily it a mobile unit. 2* Family habits are a culture coabinatlon of old and new, 3* Family looks to leaders of min ^roup. H^ Touth isaature earXr* fJ'^arry eerly, and wlt^jdra** fron school* Work nuot be done in early ares to reach fanily throutrh children. vr-

f>. H&V9 littlf tr'ust in banks or people outside tha faisiXy group* ^, They aeew to be .lealous of tncn othe** to the extent that if one progresses to leadership stfftuw, ''»*^ otaaof' to be trusted. 7* Wo»an work outside home aXcmg with i^n; how­ ever, m^n do not '")^lp witb ho'-^ie^iVIn^" c^o^e'5• 8. There is a Xan^ua^e barrier—prograea »u«t be mofntly *.^Ho'^ now* "is cofr^^tmlcr^tton Is diffi­ cult. Leadera wiXX be people ^ho can apeak both t!>nzM&h aitd ''panlah. 9. Clothing ohoaen for beauty, color tkn6 con- fc-rntty, rather then diir^biXlty. XO* They have XlttXe knowXedg:e on the care of vario5U3 fibers. [ITJ Latin Americana in low Incosie clrcumstarr«s ^ould, <|uite naturall'f, exhibit mtmy r*nnr^(?teriatles cor.fnon ^.--^ til fanilias m the •s^'fie ctreu^sttnces. Oroups with noor houalnr, low incor^, and inftde<:?u»jte e'lucaticn ten-l to have a large *^ount of diseaise an

The Culture cf Fovarty

What is poverty <«—I—Omi mmn iiiwK—mii mil IIWMI Who are the poort "SJhis " ®u»^ ^* Rns.;ered before a realiatia mid effective attack can bo nade on poverty. *Only when wa know who the poor are and what obstacles keep them from attalnini.: an r-

*Tha poor are those whose basic mid irr^^ducible needs oxoaod their !«eana to satisfy the».* [73 Liston dsfines povarty aa a state of being; in serious need* It ia relative. Whether or not poverty exiata **^.Gfmn4ti on t:ie nature ttnd extent of the ^ap between the observer*s viaw of the situation and his eonoept of neeesaary r«

In it live nearly ten million fas?iilie« who try to find aheXtar, feed and aXotha thair ehiXdran, stave off disease and waXnutritlon, and somNshow build a batter Xife on Xaaa than sixty doXXars a week* AXisoat two thirds of these famlXies atruggXa to c«t along tm Xaaa than forty doXXara a weak* fhe total number axiatin^ under thaae conditions ia nearly thirty-five Million [203* atudiea provide information to aupport a daiaarca- tlon of the poverty line at an annual ineo«Nit (before taxes) of 13,000 for a faisiiy mx4 11,500 for an unreXatad individuaX CXS3» the iSoeiaX Security ioftrd deveXopad a refinaraent of these figures for its purposess for an avarai^e faiaiXy of four (after tax income) - 13#2.001 for an unrelated individuaX «• 11,5^0 [X33« ^is aan provide only a rough eatinata, ainaa budgetary nm%4» vary aiHing different geographiaal areas and famiXiaa of different aises imd ages* thaaa figures serve only as an aid in aattln^ plana, not aa a mark of eXigibiXity for aaaiat- •nee [73. Aoaordifii to $urmf^g fa^iillaa who had annual ineoMoa of 13,000 or leas aompriaed tha foXXowlng percent- agaa of tha faatiXlaa in X^60i

Onited Statea - 20*0 pmv cent of total families [2] (19.0 p9r cent in X963) [2X] Tt'xas - X3«^ p^r cent of total faoiliea [123 Lubboek County - 20*0 per oent of tofeal fa^iilies [143 City of Lubboek - 18*0 pmr cent of total families [1^3 39

Where are the poor Hany of the aoeially disadvantaged live in de- praesed urban neii^hborhoods, aXust aeotlons, or transi­ tional areas of the inner city £223* "^he trend seei?.8 to be toward relatively low soaio-eaonoatla groups remainine in tha aitiea, and the higher socio-economic groups liv­ ing in the sia>urba [43* Mobility of popuXation la an isiportant factor to be considered in a study of poverty [23]* Within a three-year period coia-third of tha nation's families changed address, ten laiXXion moved to another city, and five »illi(m moved to another state [43* Thia movement ia toward the west and southwest and to statea bcrci^rln?: the oceans and Oulf and Ciraat Lakes* The move is also to t}ie citiaa [233* The estimated farm population of the felted 3tatea in 1$63 was only 7*1 P^r cent of tha total populati«m [243* Therefore, aeonoisically and dejcographl- aaXXy, tha llnited States ia an urbanised nation [43. Oreat numbers of farm workers are abandoning tnelr aeouatofioed hostaa and moving to the cities in search of work. Often, they find nose there* ?Jew technolo^ is resulting in ©ore efficient produeticms thus fewer un­ skilled workera are needed. Thus QoblXity often fails to relieve niseryt it becoiees a way of life for sonn 2/ho novo about tryin>/ to better the:»selves. Their cultural back­ ground is inadequate for rural or uroan modem living [25]. 30

Charaoteriatics of low neoiae people The problest of tha disadvantaged arises because thair cultures are not compatible with nodem life* They rriuat be jtilvan a basis by whieh to live oonatruotively and independentXy in this modem world* *Tha requirement ia not for Gonforsiity but for aoMpfttibiXity** [253 In anaXyaini? vaXues charactariatie to each cul­ ture, anthropologists aay, * « * no way of Xife la a aeaningXasa and goaXXess jumbXe of odd behaviors* It ia clear that each cul­ ture salacta certain conditions of living, eertain objects of possession, certain aharaeteriaties of personality, as wmrm daairabXe than othara* [363 ^d it is these *deairabXes* which act as motivating forces for the majority of people in that culture* *It la a peculiar axioe of povarty,** asserted Fresident ilohnaon in his address to Congress, *that the poor are poor because they earn XittXe, and they also earn XittXa because thay are poor** [203 Since Xow incomes are chronic with laoat poor faml- liea, tha queatici^ of trananlaaion of poverty between gen- erationa arises* Evidence points to the conclusion that "poverty breeds poverty** [73 "«rhile valid teata of into 111 iianoe—ade<|ttateXy adminia tared—have shown no dis­ tinction in intaXXl^ence related to racial or ethnic ori^n [4], education and cecupationaX atatus are shown to relate to economic status [3]« Failure to aove out of 31 low-payini; occupations reflects lack of education or training, phyaieal or wantal disability, poor »otivation, inadequate knowledge of other opportunities, or unwill- ini«:nass or inability to laove away from familiar surround- inga [73* A study at the Univeraity of Hiahigan showed that Xow educational attainenent tends to perpetuate itself between generations [73* Because of laea^er education and social opportunities, theae people find thesiaelyea dis- pXaaad by a technical society in which they have no place [43* Because of thair inadequate education and akilla, unaatploy^Mint is high* fhay are the last to be liired, the first to be fired, and the least capable of manag^Ajt^ the financial resources they may have [25}• Any adult without a high aehool diplotm ia said to be educationally disadvantaged [273* Approxisiately one-third of the boya and girls who enroll in fifth grade do not oojaplata high aehool* Nationally, the figure of non-graduatea totals a million each vaar* The f^^reatast parcantaga of drop-outa oaeura at the age when education ia no longer compulsory (aixtaan in ssost states}• A ssajor drop-out sone is the switch from Jiaiior to senior high aehool* Touth of sixteen and seventeen years of age have the highest attrition rates [28]* According to atatiatics of :^arch, 1962, peraone ei^^^iteen years and older tfho had not completed hi$rh school 32 co^^'^risff^. 46 pitr oent of the labor force and they ac- cotmteo for a ataf,gerini? 13 p^f cent of the total un:^>- pXoyed. UnskiXXad Jobs comprised about XO par cent of tha labor raarket opportunity. In 19^)3, &n^ it was px^- dieted that }»y tha and of the I960*a it would ba only ^ per cent [28*J. Therefore, an r^r^ctnt need la apparent for increased trainim: of younjg people, to aceofapXish this trainln:^, educators rnxf^t motivate youth to stay in school TAd to take advent a rje of training prof.rar^a. Here aay lie the key to control of novisrty* *h^ accomplishRent of thia feat, However, is a highly complex prol>lem. Soma of the reasons for drop-outa includes lack of interest, feeling of being excluded from social life at school, n^m^ to help with family Incoiae, caring for fa&ily naeeibaras *p9»r influence, social presaure, soiaatlises trans­ lated l^y the student into eoonotiic prestjure—the compulsion to earn ^oney in order to buy cars, to dre.^s as well as alaasmates, have equivalent spending tsoney, and the like.* [2B3 Hout potential drop-outs do not participate in out- of-cla»a aetivitiea. Moat drop-outs seeai to have special charaateriatica or aituatloris which aeparate them fron their more auceaaafui olassi^tea; examplea are inability to afford nonsal expenditure for their age and fcrade level, marked difference in phyeigue, pf>rfonality devel­ opment, dreas, social eXaaa, and interests [28]. J

-?*i« poor seem to havx* problenu. financially—not only <«iith inaufflcient fur.c's, tut uXst inability to »ake efricient u&e of the money they rio ;-£ve* The tarsi *slut- istarvation* is uced by Irej-iC Miller to «Jeiicrii>e thia h^l-lt of spending eaoney ' or three v^-^r^ at least—*to put down roots in a place** [43 Because of nobility, people feeX less conr^itted to iocl^ty, nn^l lack Intaraat in local ?tovem- taent, aohoola, ho^pltaXu, ani other soclaX resources requirlnc suatfined sut^port. T^.e»e people are u-susXXy unaware of z^'^^^'" needs, and the concept of civic contri­ butions is :;^n«ifrally absent. Local j^ovemraent seewa foreign to than; they cannot identify with it, so they mistrust all concerned. ^Ironically, the services iim^** aif:ned to help thafs most—education, public health, police and fire protection, sanitation, ^md public welfare—often appear arbitrary and undesirable to the disadvantared.* Theae public servicea appear to be unsolieitjd intru­ sions [2^3* The poor seldopi participate ii orj-ianiaed ectivi- ties or laeetinfi^s, often because of lack of appropriste clothea to wear, or leak of self-confidence In social 3*' sltuntionu. "^orje un-r thay do 'lot attf?nd l>ecau??« thr^y *woul:ln»t know trV/i to aot.* [31] The -invlronTient -f poverty br^fjdi^ feelin ;,:j of aieccurar^jaent «*nd apathy [113. Housln of t^e poor Is frequently subatfmdnnS, m%ti livinr conditions often unsanitary nnti alovenly IT^L Physical hetilth i^^ oft«?rt poor and they tend to h!*v- n*!gativ*i ottitudesi toward the use of health fiictlltlen, Social por .ilsslveneas se^ns to be TArrval^-^rit, loadin-* to earl:,^ saarriaf^ea, drop-autr-, and dollnnuf.ncy [30], ^tor^^-^'.n^ r^othern hm'-* the ^^roblen of oare and sup

Psyehoj^Lpisy of Press and j^ppearanoe Though aeasiingXy cionessentlaX appendages, cXothee occupy a pXaee in the very core of our existence aa social beings. In fact, clothes satiafy certain human needs. They serve as a device for eompronl'^e, establishini': sone degree of hartfH>ny between conflietinr interests [:^33« 35

Clothes tend to l>9 a projection or oxtensloi of tho eelf—either real or fancied* fhty cpeak « languaji^e all their own—to the individual and about him, Clothea eerve aa a valuable clue In waking flrtt impr»«tions* thottih flrat Impreeeioiii are not always accurate^ they occui^y a very important jjart in iiV%rf^$Lf life, fhm^ l»prea«ion« are often vital faetora which affect the cottrce one*« future will t«ke, thus sha^lnf to »o»# extent, hia life* Allfort iiv#i theae views of flrat Imi^resaionai Witii ^riefeat viaual percei^tione, a com|>leiE mental proceaa la arouaed^ resulting within a very short tl«e, thirty aec^ids, perhaps, in .ludgesente of aejt, age, siaei^ natl^ality, profeaelon and aoclal eaate of the atranger^ tofether with eoi^ estimate of iils te»» peramentt hia aaeeadenct, frlendllneas, neatneaa and even hla tr««tworthinea» and integritsr. With no fur­ ther adquaintaace mani' li»preaaiona nm^ %»e erroneoua, ^ttt %^mf ahow the »*rlft totalltlng nature of our Judi^sienta* 1$^} l^ajH^om maiataiita t^at the well^dreaaed pinr^^m tenda to create flrat i»prea»lonia of a auoeaaafitl^ poner^ fill individual capalile of aiaklns money. In general this individual refleota |»oaltive haiaita of living C3$3* it proninent wosian lawjrer deelarea that a well-dresaed woxna^ ia never overlooked t$$}m In eontraat, oroentag« of ttiijravoral>ltt flrat ia^reaaiima relatea to clothing and grooming CSTl* t^m Homa H* Compton, Pro«» jfeaaor and Head of the Clothlni; and Textiles Department at 37

Vt'dh f^tat® University, defines t&i-^^ waica tkv^ pertinent to the stuvty of the psychological inportanca of clothing.. **?elf-en>tanRePieiit* la «, t%&&i\& to raise aelf-vjoteort* Thia TT^ay be acc.7^3pli;.ho<:J b;* physical culfcar® for ^-hic:?* ciothiag is largely chosen* 'he *self striicture* i^ t.K pattern of interef/ss an?! values which one t::.iild» up .irourul tnt? aelf. *5eir-fe®l^n?r» involvoa the .reaotie^;s Oiie has tnvard hiriBolf, ai^jcnr, Wiilco are elation, coritcntKijat, irritation. 'H^e self-fueling riortmlly extends to the whole oody and t^ental r^oc«*Rties. "^'^elf-adjuatj^ent** in­ volves livinr, u; to ntatunee end rolet. ^t'o^-^ koll thia is done tlst^rrlnoii adju8t?jent* CXothittii servesi as a sjeuns of aehievinr and Maintaining stata^'^ss ar;d of playing roles. •• [363 Thus clothing and app^aranee are cor.rldered to 09 proj^etiona of trie self or the idealised self one wishes to becoisie. Jeraild proclaims that the pt rsion who feels a neeii to falsify hia appearance to {i eonalderabXe decree i&o^t likely does not accept hl^^seXf whoXehe&rtedXy as he is [393* 1?o earry theory a step farther, Hosencrkns assu;^es that perhaps people tend to dress like the clase to which they aspire £403» Berelson &?id Steiner addi In his queat for satisfaction, man is not Just a seeker of truth, but of deception:;, of hinaelf as well as ot?iers. ... For tha truth is, apparently, that no matter how suceessful nan bacomee in dealing with his problems, he still fln^ia it hard to live in tho real world undiluted} to see what one really is, to hear 38

what others really think of one, to faaa the oonfXieta and thraata really present* * . • Man esaneuvera his world to suit hiissalf* [^13 3tone asserts that an appraisal of appearance is basic to social interactions and coi»munication. Bis belief is that the developssent of ths individual depends upon the identification of self with ooe*s appearance and clothini!:* ^}mn othara recognise the appearance presented to thoM as being; that of the desired imai^e, the self has i^«fitr\ validated [^23* fhe psychologist Dearborn assertst •One's habita in life aa far aa social ccmauniaations are concerned are saore determined by clothing than many have ever stopped to think or realiaa*** He thinks that clothes "dsstermine how much one *^oea out* both into the street and into society * * • the cosapany one invitee into his hone*** In snort. Dearborn thinks that clothes determine the friends one jaakaa, and pXacea csne goeai that "clothes help people get job» and hold theui, but they help others to mias poai- tions and Xoa* them*** [353 CXothaa help to protect the individuaX from fear— of ridicuXe, of the eatieiation of inefficienay, of Xaok of taste, aeXf-respect, aeXf-confidence, or hoaeliness. •Fear is one of the very worst enemies of our rac.e»s civ­ ilisation, as weXX aa of our personal cowfort, and »oro- over to our efriclency." [353 39

llartaXer atatea that the Xaok of proper clothes causae faaXinn^a of inferiority in some ^irXa, and keeps others fro« associating with boya or from Joining th9 groip of whieh they eanted to be a part [43]* Judge Camille ^iOlXey of the Juvenile Oourt, Keiiphia, f»nn4i9i»9m^ expressed her viewji of the payoho- XogicaX affect of cXotheai •! oaii often do m4ir» with a deXinquent girl by giving her a aew areas than by praach- in^ aXX tha sermons in the world*• IHH2 Janny Observed from the SiXv^rs^an atu^y that teen­ agers "who are insensitive to fade are in mmrs^X insensi. tive and unskillful in other typea of aooial situations. She found In her study that eonaiutent dowdinoaa seemed to be a symptom of a low degree of sooiaXiaation** [tl53 HaauBoto^a study reveaXa that ^those high in social par- tici'^atic^ Show greater interest tti clothing than tho«e Xow in eoclaX part lei pat icwa.* [453 In Mr study in 192f, Kinton describes olothin?! problems of tatin Americans (at that time) in relation to schoolf 3o»ie of the children are so poorly dreased they do not want to coi^ to soiidol €v$u in ^ place where aXX of the others* clothes are rag«.ea and mended* A few of the Xlttle girl^ wllX k^jep on a coat when the room Is aXstoat too warm to be comfortaiile because their di^aaes ^^ra in tatters* Froi^^ tue^&e exampXea of consoiousnesa of oaXu,^ ntmhit^' taere i^uat be aosse sort of personal pride that could be appealed to and cuXti" vatad ao that ao^ething could be uon& at ittakinf; then change their wode of living* [6J 40

Koaenorana warnst iflth inareaaing enphaaia on our nation's *'poor," soste hoiae eeonofsiata will be having siore cent acta with tha Xow-inaosMi aXaases of aXX races* This aaXXa for & toXeranoe and understanding in aXX areas, of whieh clothing behavior la ona sood exausiple* It wiXX be diffleuXt for hoise eGonomiats to refrain from isipoain^ recognised standards of respectability, oXeanXinaaa, line, and ooXor upon theae people* FeHiapa thay wear few undergarssients or none at aXX; perhapa thay Xike low-aut, figure-revealing clothea; it ia poaaibla thay like fuaay, hi^ly daaoratad clothes because they want to gat away from tha drudgery of hosiework and ehildran by wearing olothaa that are dressy a id have Cinderella* like ^ualitiaa* [403 Hurloak maintainst Asioag some of the ^^mbers of the poorer social classes the sax motive aoisetiiNia enters In isuch tha sa^e way that it does In tha case of primitive people* If a parson has XittXe but phyaicaX beauty with which to attract sMis^ara of the opposite sex, this isuat be uaed to the iraateat poaaible advantage. this is in direct contrast with the clothing habita of womtn of higher claasea who dreas for other wojsan [473# In view of the previous renarka, FluneX's stata- ii^nt aeeeia particuXarXy aipilfleant t "FuXly to understand tha dynamic reXatic»ia involved ia a man's attitude to the garments he waaro would carry us toward a knowledge of hia whole paycholocieal development.** [333 In this swdem world there is an Inoraaaing amount of eross-cultural contact* Therefore, of special importimce is the influ­ ence of the *non-verbal Xanirua^e*—the Xanguajje of behav­ ior [483* CXothlag »oat certainly has its place in that lan^age syatefn* Hartman reports, •*Ho®e economics educa­ tion in the field of sound olothlnis behavior must 41

ultimately contribute something to the making, of tae supe­ rior personality or its activities will be found fatally defective.** [493

Psycholog;y of color Aaeordinjg to Compton's study of colXefte freshman woiaen, color choice app

Haaotiona to color can be insplrinf» or depressing* Dautaoh^a atratei^y Involved not so much prescribing one color over another aa a ganeral rule, but rathar applying any oolor that will create a favorable reaction froa the patient* Dautsch^a attitude is, "Color ia beneficial whan it appeals*" [533 Human beinga are sensitive not to oolor alone, but to the appeal of the environirient under which it is displayed* Therefore, paychotherapy with aolor will demand also ordorXinaaa, harmony, and beauty C533. In hia reaeareh, Dautaeh found that color can hava both phyaieaX and psyohologieaX affects upon a por^ Sim* Upon seeing a color ho Xiked, the patient relaxed and oKporionoo^ a more optimiatia i^iowpoint* "There is a phyaioaX result from a purely irlauaX and s^ntal ia^ros- aion. « • * Hhile coXora may influence the mood, their aation affords relief but not aura." [533 Sirren ecwieludeaf Color rvuit ho approached In a huaan way, an organic way* fo use it otharwiaa is to foster spurious and invalid raaaarch and to neglect the fact that the ssantal and payohic Xifa of wm ia In every way aa raaX (wnd aa functional) as hia physical Xife. [323

Faahi

Educational ProrrRp?*

Guadalupe Center In 19^1, the Ignite-? Fund Ccr-^junlty Plannin??^ Com­ mittee of Lubbock, fexas, establieh^pd Guadalupe Centar, tha only center aerving tatin Ar^rleans in the city. Safore this center easwi into being, virtually no orr^snl- sational work h$i^ boon done for Lmtin-A!»M>rlcan children and youth in Lubbock [553» Since that time, the center has proved so successful that present pliins include expan­ sion of the building (sharei with the Wnll-rmby CXiric) to incorporate iinace for additional meetinra and ^troup rro- jects. Oirl c^eouta and other children*» organisations are so euccessful that they have to turn children away (puttin;: 44 thesa on waitini; llata to join) because of lack of space and cluh faollitiea to aoeofis^odate tiie m»s%bor» interested. The Center's executive director ia well-qualified for tha axaeptionaXXy large Job she does; ahe has a maa- tar*a degree In Christian education and n minor in social jp»ottp work. She has been director of the center since it opened in l^eptestber, Xfti?^ Tht mmin purpose c^ the center is to motivate the low income Latin A«»erieans to help themseXves and teach the» how to live better with what they have* The director says thay have two siain aimat to strengthen fa»iXy Xife in the neighborhood and to develop a better neighborhood in which theae people ean live [153» 0pon Its opening, the center distributed brochures to explain that there would be pro-ams offered according to the wiahec. of the people. Since Latin-Ai»eriran >eople ia Lubbock had never befor*? been given such an opport»in- ity, they were quite eonfuaed [153. Ono woman wanted to belcmg to a "club that ^or^o^ rerreshssjents." *riss Somtaer- viXXe interprete this aa a nood rf»^ a social outlet wher« she can "feel like a lady." 1^30 first program© included aeoutinr, for both boya and girls, sewing instruction, English classes, teen-ac.e recreational program» and Spanish olasaea (althou-l) wost apeak Spanish, few can r-^ead and write). frof^rfiriS added later included advane^-^ Snjitliah, typlnr, ond citisenshlp H5 elaaaes (for thoise who cat e from Mexico imd wlahed to obtain United states citizenship) [153* fiince the i:ni^:liah language plays such an important part in success in school, InnXish 1» taught to pro-ochool as wall as to school afe children vrho have language prob- Xetm. A total of moi*e than seven hundred persons attends the center, ran»ind in «ige from four yeara to mature aduXts. Th«re are thirty-four voXunte* r workers and two part-time empXoye&s helping the director [153. Che center is open Monday through Friday aXX day, suid Saturday comings. *a»e buiXding can be reserved for such occa^iona aa wedding receptions, funert-ls, or fasiiXy reunions [X53# Zricu person attending the center is required to have a laeiaberahip card whieh eoatis ten cents per yostv^ l^ia card entitles ne-^ters to the eervices provldec*. by the center. The purpose behind the cserr^bership fee Is to give the novs^om a feeling that, sinc« they have to pay for them, thaae services are of soine value. Tha women who attend sewing/ classes are allowed to buy cloth for fifteen cents per length. Tliie clcth Is donated by Individu&la or groups, or provided by the United l^und budget. The director of the center emphasises, "We do not do things for these people, but with them." The oojective is not to give tha people thinga but to t«acn and help theei to help theisseXvea. The^* are ir-ilpln^ t-jer;33elvea. ISho Latiri-An»rican Girl 3oout leadera coiae to the center in tha ifeomiaga to learn the craft they will teach to the scouts that afternoon [153* "If you're in a riurry," aays tae director, "don't work with Latin Aiaericaas." Progress has proved extremely alow, the blggaat Job yet to be done 1:: that of iastiXX- In^i in theae woeien the importance of ao^ln«i to iieetinga regtuXarXy* itmxy of the women in sewing, claos be^an gar- isanta and no'^er came back to finish. Many co^e once to a meeting, mi«9 five or six tiites, and then "coma back aa

ft if nothing had happenedIi.

Sxperlencas in clothing; and textllei^ progra^a Tor trte disadvantaKOQ Mabel H* Farsona, assistant professor in foods an^t associate in ahiXd daveXopwent cXinic at state University of Iowa, telXa of a Xow incof»e family* Mrs. H* bou«?;*ht clothes for har family seldom, and then at tha dime store without trying them on. "These low-incowe fainilies seemed to be afraid to go Into the regular olothini? stores} they had very XittXe conception of clothing siees and often wasted the XittXe noney they had by r*«tting tninn» thst didn*t fit or were of poor quality." ^'^rs. H. had to carry water and heat it in a boiler on the stove. As a result. 47 she seXdofii washed her fawiXy^s clothes} when she did, there were c»ounda* Thaae ahe washed in aboi^t half a tub of water in the maahlne with even Xaaa rtn^^ water. "Con­ sequent Xy, the eXothea ca!^ out of the wash aXniost aa dirty aa when they went In*" [5^3 fhlM point© to a noo^ for knowledge of clothing care i«ethoda* In pilot pro|ecta with Xow income groups in Texas, it has tfo^n found that personal contaota must cosie before oven aiaaXX group work can be attempteds Ingenious ways have been found to reach diaadvan- tai^ed fasiiliea* Soiae go to the siiaaion stores or ruis- aa^ sales where Xow-ineois# famiXies buy ?^^ost of their clothes* flirough heXping thep moko wise seXections and suM^^tin^ the possibility of alteration to nake a gan^nt fit batter, the door is opened for a contact in the hof^. Ona ho#e aoonoetist interested a group of women in making hooked rugs which they oouXd aeXl to tourists to auipent their incosMi* In talking about it, she said, "Sure, they make a little isoney aalXlng rufrs, but the reason I ahoae hooked ruga ia that it takes a long tiJio to make theis. fhia gives mo an :?:^:cu»® to keep coming back* I teach them how to make hooked ru^B^ but while I*i^ doin ' It I teach thoti nutrition and how to shorten a child*a hand-me-down dress, ana I talk about the ijsportance of keepini^ the children in school, and a lot of other things*" [573 The principal at Wannamaker (FhiXadeXphia) re- portads ^Somt pupiXa were reluctant to attend school because of shabby aXothlng*" AduXt clothing classes were offered to help tha mothers gain experience in construct­ ing suitable clothea for their children* nmxy of the smothers eagerly took adwanta^e of thasa classes [223* 43

Xn Colorado, clothing ^orit has djvjloped m a slower pacia thvta ^ork ^/irih doaat^d fooci^ prti,jra*^ (Xa Cooperative Ixtujiaion -^ork vfita low income ^^roupa). It iii intjora^tlng to know that lelp on jarsoaal groc2jin!^ and isiproving personal appwarance has been r^sjiuesbad ay tneso i^roups iiore ofzjn tnua clothin,t construction. iiuyin^ and raaking ciiiidren's oXot:ilng have oeen important itenia for dlicusslon in Alamosa and Arapahoe Counties. -. loae proirratna were presented i:>y the horse ar»ents. [5^3 The Arapahoe County (CoXora^) aa^ent saade thia statement: A need for clothing pro-rams certalAly exists. These people (Jaot^l^ra receiving aid Uo dependent children) have a Ximited budi^t and lack of interest, and p^r- ao-^.sl app!iai^:aric® suffers r;r^^atl:-*. • . . Tns :-^jo5t out­ standing^ result baa boon ii.i imoreasing pride in their appearaac© a.»d hoaes. For tha fir^it tnrec rooaths, there was difficulty ia gjettin-: the 'i^roup to hosteea a Ki^etin^. Mow, two or thrzi--: speak for the next Eie«t- ing. At present, these groupa hesitate to participate witii c-tner groups but pro^-'ress is excellent. Typical teniae used includes *u?iko the Host of Your ^^ij^-ure," "Jack-to-Johooi Clothes," "Select Clotaea Carefully— Koop Care in Mind." [5Sj , The caot;bing Speeialiat, Cooperative Extension Service in Colorado, asaiated the child welfare director in planning eXothing bud*;ets for children living in foster hoises. Tie fifces of these oniXdren varied from Infants to eighteen years, fhe proposed budgets were developed to fit seasonal needs which cauBO increase in budget two or three times a yeari s»aller amounts were budf^eted for the remaining leontha [5^3* ihe Cooperative Extension aervice, Kentucky, reportst "Tha Clothing Specialist, district leader, and «9 f a rural aooioXogiat have worked with a pilot prograai on clothing renovation in Floyd and Lawrence Counties. In J^ercer County, eight hundred :;:anBent9 were r*novat^^ or update 1 as a result of two tralnirj? «eetini^»—one by the ajiant on renovation and triswtlnic of sweeter^ and ont b/ the speciAlist on updatlni: olothlni. fh? specialist wna surprls*Rd at the Inter^^st shown [5^3. \ la ?1etoelfe Couatf (Kentucky) hojsef^aktra ". . . learned to turn sweaters not used hy the family, to practical advantage W recutting and triiminr." In Lewis County (Kentucky), ••One thing the wonen and girls felt will ba the asost helpful wss patciirs! and reweavini^." [5^3 Huth Schooler described hor work with adult pro- f'T&^Ji for low lncor.e fasuilies living In a governs. «nt hous­ ing project in Oary, Indiana. In thtj carter of the project were three rootis used for neetini^^j fsncl recreation. x*he housing authority offeree' this r,ptoe ani^ the neceasary equlpgient. fhey In^Mted wolmjn to come to an orfvanlsation reetinir, where they were asked to check ite«Rs they would like to Xeam. They c^ieakedt first, "fardXy clotninf:"j second, "leaitj to understand children"j tMrd, "learn to u&e iioney wisel>." [593 Tho second Meeting was to organise tne i^roup fur­ ther, and others were Invited* A teecrjor from a mflghbor- ing adult education programs waa recoiaieendad. At the third meeting, the teacher was introdueeo and the e;«nberd paid

TEXAS TECHNOLOGICAL COLLEGE M'BBOCK. TEXAS 50 a small re gi at rat ion fee* tlia eXaasea ware hour-and-a- half sessions, twice a week, for eijiht weeks. Friday afternoons vera set aside for speeiiii community pro^r&iaa, ". . . general prograas to discover new interests and to gain answera to family problems." They were open to fell living in the coiamunity 15$1* Programs in thia aeries *'hich voro in the clothing field included a unit on personality deveiopment tnd a unit on deairninr, construotirti;, and caring for clothing* they eaoh ?tade from two to eleven gars^enta. CXasces cXoaed with a style show to which fatally and friends were invited. Special recognition was given for perfect attendance* those attending SO per oent of the titsie wefH$ awar^'^^d oer- tificatea [593*

IR 1^1 icat 1 cnt Drttwn from Literatv.re l^rrufh the precec?inf reattlngs, the following su»- *,mry can be Hiade cc^ncerniar ^;ork with lew in cone Latin- Aserican women in the field o^ elrthinr nn" textf.le«. fhe root of the rjajorlty of the 'problems of these people i« thst their culture is not compatible with the culture of .^cilem urban livinfTv "^f they crc to live con- atruetively nnd independertly in this mrdem cociety wJjich amy be alien to the???, they t?»u8t be plven the "tools" *fith which to t' ?B0. Becaofie cf lo** je'^'^le of education and training, une-tployc^ent in hlfh srd pay is low for the tobs 51 they can «cat* They nood export unit iaa and help for per­ sonal growth and developnent***for batter |obs mid better lives* Because the effects of poverty are btsth spiritual and phyaieal, Latin Ataerlcana are often at anted in emo­ tional, intellectuaX, and aoelaX tt^vc iop??«ent as well as Xackinfr »ateriaX comforts* fhis €>nviron»ient breeds feel­ ings of f!?8courafie«iant, apathy, an^l Xaok of €ner^y «nd drivts* Since poverty breeds povarty, the ho^e is where the brittle «5ust ber.In. By improving the hoise enviro?ir«ent and strengthening faall^ life. It iri noped that levels of aapira'^ion and motivation of the Latlu-Aiaerican people will ba raiaed, eapeciaXly anong the youngs It ift the youth who muot break the cyoXe of poverty. Education euat be allied for th© youth, but elco for the parents, vmoae influt^.^se Upon youth is strong. The educable persArj hnn a sense of sfelf-reepeot* The ;^isadvantaged, belnc vlpear?mce, a definite chanp^p cnn *^e riade In one*^ Ti^*». ^v/ d'-^vel'^'^lnfj 52 self-reapaot and self-confidence, motivation and aspirations aan be raiaed and turned to other areas of living, includinf the homo envlronnent* Baaed on the preceding review of literature, the author deoidad that an affaotlve program in clothing and taxtilea for Xow income X»atin«»Aaarican women ahouXdt X* appeal to their sense of aeXf-respect; 3* relate to their particuXar needs, interests, and resources} 3* aho^ thesi how they can moko more effective uae of their preaent resources without eeiphasixin^ the aoi^uisition of new things| 4* help them to be battar c^nsuttera by teaehine the reaponalbilitiea involved with credit buy­ ing—how to plan their purchaaea for the west aatlafying use of their clothinr, dollar; how to buy siore affectively by reading tiio labele and check in f» fitj 5* tinmasiit tha sincere interesta of teachers, rather than condeacending attitudes.

iiyt>othose« fhe following hypotheaea were developed for this studyt 1* rroftress with educational proisraws for low income Latin-Aisierlean woiaen will be slow and tf. 3

will Involve a great deal of tiae, effort, and paraonaX contact to get and keep the interest of these wotsen*

«. • Latin-Aiiarioan wos»en are not organisation- oonaoioua; therefore, thay have XittXa inclina­ tion to attend meetings regularly* I. Thoae adults who need help noat and who ean atllX ehanta their attitudaa of Xiving<<*-younK homamakera—ara thoae Xaaat able to attend beaauae of proble«sis with transportation ond baby-aittini;* 4. Interest in ijaproving personal appearance will ba aaeosjpaniad or foXXowad by desire to improve hos^ environment* %m Htmy of the olothaa woiti by Latin Amarioana are given to tham^ therefore, akilla in renovation, alteraticm, &nd repair ara needed* i* Latin«**i^arican woman do not mond, repair, or alter beoauae they do net Xike to and/or do not know hovf. ?• ^any Latin-American woi^n lack understanding of what, where, and how to buy ??3oat effectively' duo to inability to read, language barrier, or lack of knowXadsa of producta, or a coabinatlon of thaaa* 8* Hany miaundorstand and adause credit. CMPTEH III fmmmm In the prooesa of obtaining a group of Xow Inaoisa Latln-Asiarlcan wotsen with whom the author eouXd woj?^, the author contacted the executive director of Quadslupe Stai^box4iood Cantar in Lubbock^ fexaa* ^o director waa aaipir to cooperate and sii<|g#sted that one group be taken frosi har sawing classes. She contacted mothers of the Sirl and Boy Scouts for the other groups* A aeries of five laaaona was designed and given to the Latin-Aiu»rlaan women* The laaaona were (see ^tailed plana in Appendix IV)8 "fou and the World of Color* "?ou and CXothea Magic" "fou and How Others Sea You"#-*X and II I •- "Folae, Posture, and Iti<5ttatte" II - "Qroosiing! Care of Hair, Skin, and UttiXe" "fou and Maahday Magia" tho purpose of the serlea waa to give a broad view of many thini^a these woioan could 4o to look isore attractive and to make tha moat of what they have* A second purpose waa to develop suffleiant interest to motivate then that they would ask for further eXassea to help them in other

5^ 55 araaa9 and that thay would be isotivated to improve their hoise situations. A questionnaire (Appendix II) waa developed for uae in interviewing each participant to obtain baokgroun^ information hotoro eXasaes began* fho author included such ite»a as ijuastlons regarding cultural and educational backgrounds of husband and wife, a^a ond oeeupationa of huaband and wife, years married and nua^ar of children, length of residence in Lubboek and aoaie of the aatariaX poaseasiona of the famiXyi wt'ilch ooiiaitunleatlons imdio reach these far.lllea; habita and attitudes of the faaiily (wife in particular) regarding the household and clothing. the author interviewed seventeen wo*»en individually before elaaaes began. The Infonsatioii obtained was uaed in adapting the teaching ssethoda used and points empha- aiaad to the groupie level of interest an.; experience. It waa also helpful in gaining an over-all understanding of Latin-A^serioan people. Invitations were sent to mothers of children enrolled in prograisa at the center m%d to iiie«bera of the adult sewing aXaasea—twenty were sent for the first series} thirty-five were seat for the aeacmd series, Hefreahments were served as a means of making; the lieetings aaeib like social occasions as weXX as Xearning aituations* 3o»e of these refrsahAonta were auppXiad by QuadaXupa Center and the autiiori c.i^roU orsi^'^l^^tion^ served on oco&sion* ?ha fir»t aerifcs of classes waa i?,lven to two lif- feront groups, eacn meeting once a w«<5k* CTiS? f'rc-Uj;- ?&et on Tueadi^a u\d tha other oa Fridays* The second serlea waa given to o«iXy ona group, ^ueetini. uwlce i«etkly (Wednes­ days and li^idays)* iJoth croups isiet a.t iOjOO A. ,. Ori£;i- naX plans provided for two-hour meatla^^, but wo^r&ea becaa« uneasy by eleven o'clock and some left, because .x,!S!^\y ohil­ dren o&sm hc^e for lunch, tue mothers could stay no longer than one hour. Xhe auti^or felt that two hours were too long to try to hold their attention, ev^ii if tlae po^'^ »itted, ao aueceedinj^ progra«iis were plKiiw^^:. for only one hour* For ihe first acsriea (begiimini; VohnAory 2), pro- faasi^iaX people were asked to act as K>i«tst speakara for the Xeasona oa "fou and i1o# Othara 3ee You." M irintrue- tor frc»e a beauty school gave the Xeason on "Hair Care and drooialn^," and an inatructor from a local iao

Diplo?:ia3 ("^pendlx I) war?? iHv^^a upon "^^raciuitlon," with special refreshsainte to ^:stke th^ occasion .^ore ^?stlve, The author Intervl^'Med ttelvv? of the participants aftar the series was completed to isvaluate the effectIve- neac of tha proiram^ (Others could not be cc^tactea because they had ^,ov:d.) ;-^r these inti^rviewe she uaed a questionnaire (Appendix III) iJhioh enabled litr to obtain faa followlni^ lifor*-intion; attitudes tok^ard a^-^.d Interest in the serieji a$ a whcl^j cind each lndlvj::«ial lessen; what they learned tro^ each lesson and how U3

Ptmtnan The pertinent informot\fin >^alnfd through the interviewed and recorded In Questlonn^lrf** T and II in ahoim in 1?tbXea X throuc^ 9. rersonal inforaation feracHiaX Information (see Table X) ahowa the aubjeeta ranked according to ago and each ia fsiven a nusi- bar which will Oo uaed haramfter in referring to hor* the women's agea ranged fron aaventean to fifty- three | t^ Stan*a from twenty«»thrae to fiftyalght yeara. Educational background of husbands ranned from third grade to tenth* Five huabanda had only eXa»entary sahooX edueation$ five had some junior hiih education} and three attended hi#t school* Only one ^aduated fros» hij^ school* Two husbands had no education and one wife did not know if her husband had been to aehooX.

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iiducstion o* wlveis ranged rt^yr. jftconci to tejith grade. Five ht^ii onXy an eleaentary education; nirte attended junior hif;h schcioXj tind two hnd soRie hic:h school education. it'one ttraduated froa high school. One (^17) had no formal education at all. These flndln^j^s ar- in tigree^ent wit;. Brown*.> staterient: "Youth ssature early, Marry <*erly, and withdraw froui acaooX. Work must t>« done iri early ages to reach the f.amily throurth children.** [171 One woMan, #1^, went to sciiooX for ^even yeara in a one-room school. r>he quit becaua® she was ashiined to ba so ^-ueh older tlisn her classmates. Ti;ls ^onmt gave the fcllowlng reasons for not a^*vanoirtg with the others? she did not hr*vc? a good teacher; err could not apeak ;"!npll3h weXX. Beinf, the first in har family to attend an Araerlcsi sahooX (her pfirents caise from Hexico), sh® was vary proud of t>ie education she die- h&vc-^ Oecup^^tions of husbanda inolucied six skilled workers, six f>emi-0klil«d, two unakiXXed, and one clerical worker. Specific Jobs »iare$ painter's helper, painter, truck driver, body shop worker, concrete finisher, carpen­ ter, weXdar, electrician, roofer, construction worker, irrigation pipe maker, plumber's helper, ond office worker* Hourly wage scale for these occupations rani?ed fron ll.l?5 to $3.50 according to Texas Eisployrent GoBffltiBsion «n

?loua,ing ai^d^ peraonaX poa'se^itjions" *aMHI*«aMMMMHM«kaMMaMM» The tsojorlty of the wossen had lived in tubbook mora than fourteen yo^ro; four h&d IWtd In the city all thetr live« (Tablts 2). One wo?«^n had lived in the saise house alX her Xiff? (fort7-two ^©ars), whi'!'? the majority had •^stded at their present 4ddr@s«e^ l-iss then six year.i. Six of the seventeen interviewed owned their own homea and eight ranted* One fas^lly lived in a house beXonc^ing. to the hus­ band's father*- This hou5^ waa in tho ^orat condition. The two youngest woman lived with parents, a eharacteriatic pointed out by s^artinea Cl^1# In vlaitins the homes, the author found that condi­ tions were extremely poor In s^oat eases. Few homes had Xawna; $md mont naeded paint; aoate looked a.*"! if they had never hoon painted* A few were cluttered inside and 62 uaat* pua a«au io^uxMoxu •-jui 4a^a«o ^ 9da9!«-xteM (aanoq .xaSl^iq itmat fatnoq faanoq ^aaaiti ataatu atix itaaa am, X «/I-^ tz •ti *pajiaat|n|a uaaa iKOoa auo iCt^io •aanou XT* i© ^ee •a oti pajfoox •sieod Aiaa atia aano» •ox 4t

I n0vx 63

TARF,S 2—Continued

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1 •*'>*<«.•«'•^waMIMl***- 6 < outaida but most ware neat though weeper. Moat houses were quite aotall, one or two roosa. mth ona axoaptlon, tha woisen cordially invited the author into thair hociea and answered the Queationa in a sineare manner* During tha interviews she learned addi- tlonaX informatlcm about the wosion^a hoatas* Aa a whole, tha aaaond group seeiised isuah poorer than tha first* Thia waa seen not only froa looking at their nomea, but alao from thair con vera at iona* Faw of the last group had taXe- phonaa and ears* (kiO wi^san, 1X3^ Xivad with her huaband and nine ehildran in a two-rooA house* Though axtresMiXy SH»ager, it waa ^ory neat ond dean* (This woman both sawed and Xaundared by himd*) tho oXdeat woman, #X7, owned har own hoaie and had lived there for twenty-six yaara* l^he home had no hot water but it did hava aXeatricaX appXianees, incXuding a wringer washer, aXaatria iron, taXaviaion, and aawinp; ftaohine* thirteen of tha fattiliea owned cars) fourteen waahing maahlnaa Ull wringer nodala); and none had eXec- trie driers. AXX owned aXectria irons* Thirteen of the wosien had radios and all owned teXeviaion aets* Only five poaaaaaad aewlng machines* 67

n.«r.«tlon Table 3, Recreation^ shows the pastiJte of the wonen interviewed. Tha only radio station to which the wo8ien listened with regularity waa lUSEL (a station with softe iJpaRiah language r^'rograisa). feXeviaion was definitely a favorite pastira*?. Five of the seventeen aubjects watched television all ^ornin*:, afternoon, and evening; five watched aftemo«K^ and evening* Although hobblea were varied, ^oat of the» seeeied to be the types of aetivitlea which occupied the hands and could be done while watching?, television. Those wuc listed reading aa a hobby were not thoae wit;^ the highest educational level (ranged fr<»9i D to 7 years), ao thair statements may be questioned. 3os^ of those -^Uo li3te

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O « fl o f** a r? o m \r. \o u 70 to P*T.A* and one to church guild* Two wo^ten belonged to the Parkdale Baptist Church Mother** Club, where they learned aewinir and other akilla* While the majority have soate connection with Quadalupe fe'f*ter tbroufh Scouts and other fMlldren^a aetivitlea, only a few have taken advan­ tage of the adult education proTldad.

Lauhdry practieea The majority of the weisen ware satisfied with their laundry arranga»ients (Table 4), Half the wosten did their wash at hojse and half went to a laundromat* One woman (#13), mother of nine, *lid hor Xaimdry at ho«»e by hand. She said ahe was aatiafied with her arrange^^enta, but the work would be eaaier with a waehine* Theee findings sees to eoineide wit!} those of ^omtdoro Cf} who atatad that Latin Anaricsna tend to adjust to their environment. Host of the woi^n dried their eXothaa outside on a Xine, although tout regularXy uaad tha aXeatric driers at the Xaundromat and two others uaed the^ in bad weather* One mother aant moat of her own clothes to the cXaanera* T'®y looked as if thay should have been sent »ore often—perhapa aha should be encouraged to purchase washable clothea so ahe eould afford to keep them clean* 71

TA9LS: n hAmmt PRACTICE OF SSVSliTEEN LAtlii-ArMnftiCA?? WOr-^.f.H

iilaahiiif Drying Satiafaetion Caaa H«aa Laundromat Line Prior Very ^atia* l^iaaatia- Ho. fled fiad Satia- fiad X H X X 2 (Mother does laundry} t 3 X X X ^ X t X 5 X X Occaa* X i X X X

7 X X t^ i X X X

f X % Ooeas* X XO t X t 11 X X X xa X X X X3 ay h ind A X X4 X X % X5 X X X x$ X X X XT X X X

The director of the center, in conversation» empha- ailed nomd.t of tha people In OuadaXupe Center and stated, •there ovo ^wm of these people who wear their clothes until they becosia so dirty they rot. Then they throw the» away* l^ay do no waahini; or wandinr." She spoke of a fastily which deposited worn-out and soiled elothinc; in an 72 old ear which aat outside thair hoae. The ear Is fiXXlng up, and thay apparently hava no intentiona of washing or ntendin^ tlie oXothea; instead, thay go to 0ua4alupa Center, Catholic Welfare Agency, or Salvation Army for iiore froo cXothaa. (In thia paper, tha director wiXX bo q^otod fre

Attitudea about eXotnlnir mmmmm*mmKtmm»mm»mitmmm0»mmmmmmiiimmmn •mil m Hit Information minod regardinn laimdry practices and attitudaa about clothing helped thia Investigator to ful­ fill otjjeotive 1 (pafce ^)* The aajority of the women interviewed did nomo sewinig tor their faMlies (Table 5). ^ost of the sewing waa for children or the?sselvea while only two sa^ed for huabanda* Six of the women iiade less than rive garr^ents a year, three i«ade six to ten garsaants per year, and four aada laore than fifteen garssents por yanr. Four did no aawing at all* Ctee woman (#13) sowed by hmid three i^ar- Rianta per year for each of her six daui^ters. She said she was able to borrow a staahino occaai»r*aXly but most of the sewing she did by hand* Ha*'/' the wosnen naid they did oamo sasending, although all adwitted that they did very llttJ^. 3o^ satd they did little or no siandini; because they did not know how ^n ' otiiers did not like to r^^nd (conflriRln/, Hypothe.ula <*, . age 53). Host said their children would not we^r f^lothes vhich 73 t X X 51 *iaAo V tt » * ... X X SI •lOAO X CI > . • • • X X ^ - t X ?I

X I X S - I X It

X X etiOH X 01

t X X ^ - I t 6 * . *. X X OUOfi X 9

X X S - I 1

X X 01-9 X 9 . • . . X X 01-9 X Q

X X S - T X t

X i C . • « « X X S -• I I 2 X X X fil aoAo X t

Jteex ihH •ie£ %90U OUOfi ewoo ^fioy. ep«N ^U eoA ct|Udt34ao • •on aOH Xw^ ua>| aaa3 Jtoej aOH UOTS^ra^n bS V JO apo'^ Iluxaa ^ ewo;1 rwoM NVJiHsiwifUVi ^0 dtiouG V «i DKiHioaD moflv Kaaniiiiv 5 ai^rvj; ij

TAPLi 5*-Ccn*:lr*u34

Satisfaction Do "Jot Atten«; fve?its Be...;ftyae Ade

X Can*t 5c to parties X X I X X Clothes doii*t matterj she X X doesn't ^,0 out much anyway. X Jhe ae.*d» clothes; caAi*t ^^o X X to parties, dances, church. X X 1 X

\. She ca?iH P;.Q to parties X :{ because «he do^sn*t Xoo< i:ood. X I Faiaily c^n't go to church—no X X ^ata for smother n^nd daugh­ ters; 10 sh<^a for father. t Clothea don't matter| she X acesn*t ,?TO anywhere anyway.

< X Children canU m to parties -•* and ohurc^i. X X

X I •• » X Children can*t go to r,o^.'i&a. 75 T"*"

^X ^•AO XI

t ouou 91

X CI - 9 61

• mmmmm Jteax r auotv auof? a»og t)90

panui;uoo—6 ai

fAli Li' 5—Cent in UP ti mmmm asm OK 3atiefaction T/o MOt Attest Events EecHUSo /^^dOHuate with of Inadequate Clothes iarjisnts Wardrobe

*^o Explanati

She can't go to husband's cocapany parties j none of family f,09» unless all ean dress well*

Jhe couldn't attend X X nephew's graduation. She doesn't go such of any­ place but church; doesn't matter rfhat you wear aa long nu it is clean and neat. It use-i to bother hor -th^n she was youni^, but now lane knows it doe .5 n't satti^r. 77 had bean patched* Ona woiaan (1X7) not ©nXy tended for her own family but for a married daughter's fa»iXy aa weXX (tha daughter did not know how to aew)* Four of tha women said thay romodo some clothes for thair children* Tho najority (twelve) of the women bought soat of thair clothes new* Moat received some cXothea aa gifta or hand«»down3 and nine of the wo«en aade oomo of the clothes for their fa«iliea* Vary few (five) bought uaed aXothing and they aaid thaaa were only a s«aXX portion of their eXothaa* tk%o woisan, #9, did not buy any eXothea at aXX but received aXothing from Salvation Arttiy and CuadaXupe Center* After pXanninf mr laatar wardrobe, si>e bo^on aaking the author and women aa^loyed at SuadaXupe Center to give her the itowm ahe needed to cos^pXete her outfit—v/hite hat, purse, and ahoaa* fhoae wotsen recelwing uaad eXothea obtained thav frosi ruiiisiaga aaXes, raXatlvaa or nei^bors, the 3alvation Army, duadaXupe Center or the Catholic irfeXfare A^anay. Host of tha wos9«n uaed the clothes as they received thast while tmXy three would change hems or re-fit. OnXy ona changed trii«aini;s. As atatad in Hypothesis 5 (pspfo 53), akiXla in alteration, renovation, and repair seeia to be needed* n

Many women (ei^ht) siade clothing purchaaea only after conauXtin® with thair husbands* l^ia indleatea that thay ware still allnglng to some of tha old cultural pat- tema C9]« Only three of tha women with husbands isada thaaa daalalona alone* Over half (nine) bought elothlng on credit* In shopping for new eXothaa, uottt women (nine) uaad their own Judcment as to eare of the garsiant (whether to wash or dry eXaan, ate*}. Seven read XabeXa eois^times, and alx aaked the clerk aosiatimea* In discussing eare of garmanta, the woman indioated that their knowledge about fibers and fabriea, and their care, was very ll«dted (see liypotheaia 7, page 51) • AXl but ona of the women liked the cXothea they had, but ssoat women (thirteen) faXt their famiXlaa did not have adequate aXothing tor all aetivitlea and occasions. Clothes and ahoea for children wore mentioned s!»oat often, and husband'a clothing neit* l^o woa^en listed Inadequate olothaa for thesisalvea least often* ISany wo^n (eight) aaid there ware times when they or their famiXlea failed to attend events because of inade­ quate clothings oecaaitmally ohildren had to miaa school- no ahoaa and coats. (Hinton CS] ressarked that Latin- Aeierioan children in 1929 failed to attend aahooX because of Xack of proper clothing;, and this is often true today aXao*) Parties and church seemed to be the ocossions 79 missed moat frauuently. One aether (#15) maintained that if one PWRber of the family did not have clothes to go to an OGcaalon, none of the» went* Thia seems to indieate atronfi: faiftlXy ties which Martlnea [16] found to be pre­ dominant in Latin-American faiailies* Four women statad that aXothas did not matter so much ainoe they hardly ever went anywhere, anyway*

Attendance The firat series of lessons beiran February 2, Tues­ day, with a coiabined wteeting of both Tueaday and Friday iproupa to accommodate the schedule of the ^ueat speaker. AttendttEioe at thia fsaeting nusa»ered nine (Table €). During the following weak, the Tueaday ^^eeting was canceXXe(i beaauaa of a funeral in tha costunumity, and no one attended the Friday meeting* There waa obviously confusion raj^ard- ing meeting dates for the Friday class* Since thay met Jointly with tha Tuesday class for the firat sseeting, they aaai^d to have miaunderatood that succeeding meetings ^ere scheduled for Fridays* A make-up for thl? lesson was scheduled for Hareh 5* The third week of the series proved soe^ewhat more enoourafing (after the director of the center personally visited the wc»sen)| three women were present on Tuesday and three women (and five small children) attended on Fri­ day* Miss Sot^sierviXXe learned, and repeated to this do writer, that the reaaon snany of the v^omen were not attend- int; waa an epidemic of flu whioh seemed to cover that entire area of the city* Absencea from Quadalupe School during this period were quite hi^h alao; and the avera^ attendance at the other adult classes at Quadalupe Center dropped during this period*

TABLE 6 ATtSI*DAIiC8: AT CLASSES FOK LATI^-A*^ERICAIf mm»

Serlea X Class I Class II Lesson (Tueadaya) (Fridaya) Leaaon Series II

1 9 r-^at Tuas* X 0 a CanaaXXed 0 Hopeat of X 9 3 3 3 0 0 2 5 Hopeat 3 3 of 2 X *CanceXXed 4 9 Repeat 3 fl of 3 i| 6 3 Hapeat of ^ X II 5 Xk «

'Combined with Tuesday group

mun attendance waa aisain Xow for tha fourth week (four preaent on Tuesday and none on Friday), the problem was analysed and new plans were developed* The center's director cof»pared thl^ period of 19^5 with her other years of experience in working with low income peoplej a definite 81 pattern of attendance appeared. January and P'ebruary seem to be alump montha for attendance at any kind of organised activity among theae people* Heasona the director frave for thia lack of attendance includet

fhay are "recuparating" (flnanelalXy and aoclaXXy) from the holidays{ There is an etipXoyment ^Xomp for these people at thia timeI Since many ara out of work^ they have little or no money, XittXa food and often few clothes aa well.

Added to this Hat of reasons ia the fact that Latin Amarloaiia are not ''Joinara*' and do not readily attend meetings, anyway. These findinga ooom to confirm Hypothe­ ses 1 and 2 (pa^a 3^ and ^3)« ^e laat four of tha aeries of five laaaons ware reaehaduled on Tuaadaya, cmly, at XDtO0 A*M« beginning March f* Haw invitations were sent out* Attendance a^ain waa poors March 5-*'»o«e attended, March 9-^four were prea­ ent (the author eallad tho^e with telephones to remind them tha nii^t before), ond March 13—one eai^« for the graduation ooffee and final lesson, attendance sweXXad to a aurprlaing fourteen* Tha aeacmd aeriea waa planned to begin on inarch 24, and thirty-five invitations were sent* The nif^ht before the firat aXaaa, the author oaXXed aXX women who had teXe- phonea* AXX said thay had raoeivad the invitations and 82 all said thoy would be unable to attend (they either worked or had baby-sittlni; problems)* Ho one nmm to the first elasa* Tho aeriea was rescl^fceduXed to bofin on March 3X. The inveatlgfttor personally went to each of the thirty- five homes to explain the program more thoroughly and to attempt to create amthuaiaam toward attendaaea* Result­ ing attandanaa varied from nine on two occasions, five at ona leasmi to three at three lasaona* (Five lassona ware given and tha graduation tea waa a separate event*) Attandanaa reoorda showed that four women attended all meetlni^ and two othay^ ssiaaed only one lesson each. Some of the women were willing ^^ come, tha author learned, but had no transportation (Hypothesis |, page 53)* The author ti^n provided them wlts^ a ride* : ofie woiten a^yaltted that thoy Just forgot to come to tha leaaima* Children provod to be a definite problem in the mothers' attendanee at alaaa (Hypothesia 3, page 33)• Sinea theae fn^thars cannot have baby-sitters, they must either atay homo or bring the children with them* If they bring the ahlldren to tha leaaon, thay dlatract both tho speaker ond the mothers* The director of Quadalupe Center feels that this problem can be solved when tha new addition to tha building ia aomplatad* Than a volunteer can take care of the children in one rocr. while the ncthers attend claaa in the other room.

Lanisua^e problem Tha language barrier la a problem for some of tha woman, eapaalaXly tha older ones* Some of the younger women interpreted for them during the aXasa maetinjg (In aXX aaaes these were reXativea)* Brown [X?] alao found this prc^Xam to bo pravaXent.

Partieipatlon by the women in tha group discuaaion was good. A few were ^ulta eager to talk and ahare tViair queationa and idaaa* Othara, who ooomod more ahy, would contribute after some anoouragament waa given* iMftapeakera tho Investicator foimd that reception waa much batter toward the coXlaife studenta than toward tha two pro­ fessional wo^an in the firat series* "^arefora, in tha second serlaa aXX gueat apeakara were eolXege atudants*

LoooGno most enjoyed The Xeason most enjoyed was "fou and Wardrobe i^agio* (by six women, aaa Table f)* Beaaons (summarised by tha author) for liking thia leason inoXudeds 1* Power eXothea are noodod Xf cXothea are prop­ erly coordinated* ^J4

TABLE 7

L^SSOIIS •MOST M^OXSl^ A^D "l^.OST USEFUL* A3 SELECTED BI A mom- OF LATIK-./i:|;^HICAU WOHK^i

Case Ho* of Leason Leaaon 'io. Classes ^joyed Host Attended Most t^aaf ul Lessons e #1 - *irou and !fow 5 r 3 0there ^:?a Tou— 2 Hair Care and Orocmlm^"

•MMMH. #2 - •Tou and the world of Color"

3 (moved—oouXd not #3 -• "Tou and Waahday contact) Hagio" mmmmmtmmimmmimmtmmmimtmmmmtm #4 - *Tou and Wardrobe b Hagic* 1 §5 - "Tou and How Othara See You—Posture, iiiiiii.i • IMK JPoise ft Fiti<|uette" 9 5 X k i 3 A 4 4 IMQI 1•!0* —l- H 1 4 MISSMMMM 1 xa 3 (moved—could not _____^ contact) MIMM. -ii 1 (left for Colorado) li J2— 16 1 Ail II HkMWMMavmHSMMH b3

2. ^ith fewer clothe^^ needcw, ona c^n afford to buy better quality olothes which will look nicer and laat longer* 3. Buying aaveraX pair of stockings (and socks for chiXctren and huaband) the saine color is more eoonomloal than buying them all in dif­ ferent eoXora. 4* Meitdln^ with irc^-

^* The womea likad tho oouji-ir, demonstration. 3» They could at»e that groojaing th© hair jsakes one look good* One woman (#17) comiaoat4;d t:uit her hnlr hod been fallin,^ out and was nianerally in poor condition. After attending lesson #1 she began to brush ond maasage dally and to shasH300 more often| the aair stopped coning out. Thaae women said they "fixed themselves up* ^ hair-aet made from **^ell«*0'' and deodorant of soda* They wanted to know what thay could do with what they already had* Color prefer^noaa of moat woman tended to be dark and bright* Ine women were conaeioua ot tha colors which reflected yellow in their faces and thoae which blended unbeooRiingXy with their aklna (aa browns). In each group there waa a range of oompXei^ioaa from Xi^ht to quite dark* Some had warm couplezlone and others much cooler. Colors these women aould «^^>ar obviously diffored to some exte^it. 3?

Most wonsen oheokel •their nlothes at h^-^ for points Xear^ied froi!« Xeason ^2, *Tou Tind th© WorXi of Color.** Hany said they felt they rfojld be able to nr.ce better choices ill the future. Some Jtre :uitisfi©d with the choices they had modi} in the paat. Lesson 0?. Inoluded points on select­ ing ooloi's, Xinec and patterns for th^ figure. At the sea-

"Tou and Wardrobe 4agio,* store emphanla sfiould be piac

Leaa^ita moat uaafuX *Tou and Hardrobe Haflo** waa the lesson selected aa beini tha isoat useful to the women (Table 7, page 64)* Beaaona they tave were almiXar to thoae glren for enjoy­ ing tha leason* Additional reasons wereI 1« ratehing makes children's clothea last lon^eri 2* Be-makint hand-^a-downs for children ia a aavingi S9

3« Turning eolXara makes ahlrta last lemger* Three woman felt that *Tou and Waahday ^agic** waa tha most useful for thaaa reaaonat 1* Thay did not maaaure amount of laundry produets before the Xaason«*«*'Juat dumped*'' 2* Proper laundry methoda are eaon^iieaX. fhio Xeaaon did not change tha women'a habita to any notiea- abla axtant, hmmvar* T^ey continued, according to their atatemanta, to uae the amounts of determent (or soap) and bXeaeh (if any) aa before* C^Xy two ramefi^erad correct Xy tha amounta of detergent and bXaaeb recoi^tiendad at the

Several of tha woman uaed tha same wash water for several loads of olothaa in order not to have to carry so much water* three stated that thay had learned to sort clothes mid now uae the method reeomi^iended*

Disc us a Ion o.r i#;itGnt All of the womer* discussed the leiisons with their families, and aoms with fritads (Table !)« Eeactlons of familiea and friends were varied—s^-oise ^-ere ai/parently indifferent and others quite interested. A fe«' of the wosien tctunlly taught muth of the subject :.iatter to thair fami lite aad friends. 90

TASLg S ntBmssxm or LESSORS BT CLASS HEKEERS WITH mmn IMDIVIDCALS OH aiours on Dlaauaalon of Laaaona by Wome: MMM Case Mo* With Family With Friends

Hother who liked Cousin who was interested Information

*••****•••«•••<»•**«*•#*«* *•*»*«•**•*..*•**«*.*.«.. Hother, alater, aiaters- Mo In-law, huabandt encour­ aged to c

Siatart no raaoticm ^O

3 «*•.•«*.*.••.»*****•**••« ***.•*»**•*••***•«.*•..** $latai^-ln-law who would Tea I would like to like to attend attend 7 hlece and aiater:: taught how to roll hair

*•***•*•••*«***•*••*•*••• .••*•••*«•••««.•*«*•••••• 9 Slaters-m^law, huaband i neighbor?* t all Xecaona; told about all lassera I ir«tereatod interested 10 31at€r**ln-lawt no time feat would like to e:o for such tut works 11 Sister, mothers inter- f^©i£jibor«J wanted to ested attend but baby-sitting problet\s

12 *.••**.«*<».«•«*•**«**.•« «...*.**...... •..••••.• 13 1^ Uuiiband, slfiter-in-lc^w -Ls: if ha': kno'rrr\ who works but aaked for earlier would have all Infortaatlon fjlven attuaileu in laaaona 91

TASys 8—Continued MHMMHWMWIW I • rw!i'f:'i!"i'i'iiwriiiiB'iiiii;'ii' i\v ninii, '.iiin'Miu """""" -' ^"'•' "'"'" T Disousaion of Laasona by Momen

ii.nKiiii.miai mi i.iim mmmttmummmmtmiimmtitam Case ^lo* With family lith Friends

IMIMMMMIH 15 Test no reaction Teal no reaction 16 Mlece, siiatars thought Test foun4 luformatluu it waa •nice* useful 17 laughters I want to attend a series N'luliin >»tM>i>lll«.l«]»l«l n UIHiHIIIWIMIW.PHWW—WIHIIIII.1 II I 92

^tareat in laa^^^fia 'llho author ia unoertaln aa to tha aoeuracy of raac- tiona to Xeasona (Table 9)* 3he faXt that perhapa tha woman were moroXy reacting poaitiveXy to any Xeasona sug­ gested* Koat of the women were interested in aXX tha Xeasona ausioatad In both Interview I and Interview II* Subjects other than thoae Hated in which thay were Inter* eated in Interview 1 ineludad reduoins, make-up, hair care, walking and polae, ^nd clothing aelection* Ona woman said she felt vary aeXf-ctmaaioua when ahe walked into a room fuXl of people* 3ha wanted to overco^^ tiila faeXing and asked to Xeam more about how to •be frltndXy* and to have se X f-aonf1donoo* I«. Interview II addltimial Xeasona requoated ware cooking, gardening, omd alterations* Subject 117 was par- tleularly interaated in learning to alter properly in order to use hor akilla for profit* Since no one in har nelghbof^ood could alter cXothea, many people asked her to help with their fitting problems*

?r®fereric«?iB f^r cla»^:^e^ Host wo&^'2n liked to tilt and listen aid to j>artlci- pate in workshop activities. Several wosjon felt the les­ sons would be mor^ enjoyable and profitable if th?y could actually practice what rfas belnr t3Ui:ht-*a5,^mpl9 6 all could brln^ rollers to the bslr care Ic-.tson and leara to roll their hair. 93 •«*•

X X X X X X ix X X X X X X 9X X X X X X X SI X X 41 X X X X X X CT X X X X X X et tiotaoetea X X It X X X X ot

eaTod J»ui5fl»« fdn-ei?e^f X X X X X X 8 X X X X X X A X X X X X X 9 aaaa X X X X X X X 4 ^tripuag X X X X X X £ X X X (lhfi«»a9(«m idxo% X X I mmmm MManMi 4»tiao •a 2? I s m aaao % I 4 m

1 i anoaari aoj aaido^ u| aoaaaaui X aatiuiat^tti nmMwMM

$ mmi TABLE :?—Ctmtlnued

»WWH*«—w»1WB Interview II Interest in Further Lessons

Clothing Personal Apv^earanoe and Manners

•HI a m 13 4» o m I o o »• HI o *4 E 4» o o m 4«^ CW other aim X X X X X Just everything

..***..««*««.«** .*.«•> « « < « tt * >> « * 4 ..» » » * • » . * 4 . . • « . * I « * • X X X X X X Anything irlven X X X X X X X

• . * . * < * * * * * • » » • 4 .«* » « * * l> « * I * • * • •« t * • • .«.**.**«•*.**•*

X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X I X

« . . • * J • » » . « • * • » • • 1 . * • » » . . » . . I « . . « . . » . « . ....*.*......

X X X X X Cooking (eap. cookiea) X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X

****M**U*«*»»

X X X X X X X X y X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X •likrUenliu:; alterations 95

Two woman axpraaaad their interest in attending tha olaasaa in terms of aociaX noodOm They aaid they hardly oror got out of the house to go anywhere and it waa good Just to visit with tha other women—even if they did n#thln§ else* All but tmo of the woman preferred meetinf at Duadalupa Canter for claaaaa, saying that tha homea were too amall and transportation might be a problem* CHAPTER y

coiiCLOSions mn mcommHmfKMB

Conoluslona The author's objaatlvea in thia study ware three­ fold! (1) to survey literature in order to develop an understanding of the Latin^Amarican culture, the culture of poverty, and the psychological affeeta of clothing and peraonal appearance, and their poaaibXa therapeutic vaX­ uea $ (2) to plan a aariaa of olaaaaa to atimulate interest among the Xow Incomte Latin Americana In improving thair appearance and clothing altuatlonas (3) to test the effec- tiveneaa of thia aariaa of alasaea by presenting them to groups of low Income Latlfi-Amerlean women* Throu#i this "ExperlsH^ntal Program in Personal Ii^rovemant for Low Inooma Latin-American Women" tha author acquired a great deal of inaii^t into tha inter­ esta, noodo^ and attitudes of low inooma wonen of Latin- American culture* Hhile tha claasea did not prove to be a total aucceaa because of poor attendance, the author feeXa aa a w^oXa thia study achieved its most important objective! that of undo rat an dine; Xow incomo Latin-American women and

96 97 soma of their probXe»»i, needa, and intareats (aae Objectives 2 and 3, pai5» T). The executive director of Guadalupe Meignborhood Center, Is interested in thia series of claasea and wants to oontlnua it aa a preretiuisite for hor sewing claasea. While thia serlea was long enough to develop some good rapport between cXasa members and tha Inveati^j^ator and to stimulate soma intaraat in learning, the author ballavea that auoh a program needs to be much longer if it ia to ba of more Xaating value* Tha five lessons were merely sufficient to gain the interest and oonfldeace of the women^ and until theae requirements are eatabXiahedp no real Xaamlng oan be expected* Progress with theae Latin-American women (Hypothe- aaa 1 and 2, pa^ea 52 and 53) proved to be extremely slow* Thay obviouaXy ara not accuatomed to attending meetini^a and acoeptlni; reaponaibiXitias Involved in origan 1 sat ion0 aa thay do not attend meetinga regularly* Hiaa SommerviXXe and the investigator apent a great deal of time and effort in peraonaXXy o!ost wives Indioated that thair huabanda read the newspaper* Ho newspapers were foustd in tha home© where either husband or wife had no education or none below second srade. OnXy one family (#6) subacribed to a magaaine md this wife was tha best educated (tenth i;rede) of the group. If educators are to attract and keep the interest of Latin*»Amari©an woisan, educational progrnf?is jsust provide a social outlet and tome entertainment* The programs must be made a© meanlniiful to these women of little forrrra training and Xow income that thay will be willing to give up some of their teXawlaion tisu» to learn skills and help­ ful Information* Training in akilla in renovation and repair will help these woMon to make more efficient use of tn& cXothee they have and thoae they receive aa gifts* Since theae famiXlea tended to buy most of their poaaasaions (including clothes for many families) on credit, they need to learn to use this systen effectively. Classes mi family finances ond consumer buying are needed. Host women tended to uae their own Judgment r©f:ard- ing care of ^are^enta. Occasionally they read the labels and/or asked the sales person when purchasing clothes. They need help to learn the irnportanse of checking labelii for vital information on each (isarasent. These women must 10 w learn to recof^nisie good standards of workwinshlp and quality of fabric (Hypothesis 7, pa^e 5|). ?he enthuaiaam ehown by the women for the lessons on oolor and coordination Indic&te that they are much ssore conr,omed with outw&r«l appearafsee than in the quality of fabric or workr.anahlp (thus over-all wear) of gareients. Trosrar^a of this type are excolli^nt for stimilpMnr; inter** est and enthusiasm an«' can bv- u&ed to lead the ¥Onen into aotje of the other much noodod but poaaibly lesa popular topics, the wor^n yforo interested in hair care &nd groom­ ing and aaked for additionaX Xeoaona on these eubj«ets. However, they ^^howed little evldenee of improvement in thair habita of pergonal g:roor,lng* Workshop types of pro- gra.Ms (in which tha woisen eouX^^ actually practice what they are ahown) would probably stluulate i^tlvation to chaaifa. Ti\oir ipHsomlng habita anti attitudes, beific flrfs^ly established, cannot be expected to change all ^t once* If they can iss^rova gradually one or two habits over a period of time, they ml^ht make progreas* These women cannot be expected to change their laundry habits until their household situations can be improved* 1%oy use the same wash water far several loads beoause of inconvenient pluisblng facilities and lack of hot water which involve carrying water to the waaher. Therefore, a demonstrttor must show them how to increase 101 the efficiency of their procedures with the facilities and problems at hand*

i%a commendat 1 on a In view of the resulta of thia research, tha fol­ lowing racomiendations for future progra^^is with low income Latin-American women are set fortht 1. One person should worat wit a the group through­ out the program in order to establish rapport with the wo:!^n« Ttils peraou should be present evaa When another speaker is to give tha leoaon. 2* Programs should be planned arouxid the particu­ lar tieeda, interests, mid reaources of the group. Inviting tne subjects to a pXannlni; meatins pei^apa would help to create enthuai- asm and interest. 3. Conausier education (methods of buying, types of stores aa well m sta-^darda of quality and care of fabrics) sAOuld be stressed to help these women ^ake :sore efficieat use of their clothinc doll/ira* 4, Iffort nhould be ©ado to stimulate Interest in a workshop on alteration of clothes* This would ba helpful to the worsen not only for use 1C2

witn their families but al^o t^z a &eans of earnlni^; extra incoiste* t;* Keiiovntion classes should be given to help the woKioa SEiake moro effective uae of the clothes they have and of thoae they receive as gifts, 6. Leaaone in grooving ishould ei^phaalse the devel­ opment of pride in one's appeurance at houo aa well aa when going out. In addition, recoomendatlono are tsade for further research In work with low inoo£^ Latin-^erican wc^n: 1. Since eonoluaivo evidanoe in a ^tudy of this type cannot be gained by one person over such a short period of ti;^e, a team of knowledfeable and skilled professionals uhould work in the overlapping fields over a longer p4^riod of ti&;e with larger numbers of subjects* 3* Further research through continued prograrus with theae women may prove (or disprove) this investigator's hypothesis that interest in improving household situations can be developed through Improved attitudea toward personal appearance* LIST OF mrmmcz^

X* Lazarus, T-nno, *T!te Sew Colossus." Inscriotlon for the Statue of Liberty, ^ew Xork Harbor. 2* Sullivan, "Poverty*" Health* Education and Welfare Indic«ter«> t).s, DepartV^ni; of llgalSh, gdlticatlmi, and Welfare, April, li^64, v-vill* 3* Duhl, Uonard J., and Antonla Handler Chayea, "Indi­ vidual, PawiXy, and Community*" Hi^eographedi ji paper for presentation at the 55th Annual Meeting of AHEA, Detroit, Michigan, June 25, 1964, *• - neighborhood ^oals in a Hapidly Chsnrlng gornr^Aefeion-fteaearch Works^oo k^lS at^anliin^oLo, Harrlman, Hew Tork, February? 13 - 15, 1958, »^etlonal Federation of Settlements and Neighborhood Centers, Hew Xork, Hew Tork. 5. Shaw, Qaorge ^mord^ The Intelligent Woman's guide to SooiaXlam and Caoitiilam* 'W lorkt Qrentano's. 1928 ft 1959. €. Hinton, Varda Elisabeth, The Mexican Problem on the fjouth FXaina* Maater's fheais, texas ^eo^inoloi^ical dolleifte, X^i9* 7. Cohan, Wilbur J., and Eurenia Sullivan, "Poverty in the United States." Haaltb* Ldueation^ and Welfare Indicators* U*S* Department ol^ ifealth, Education« and i^alfare, i^ebruary, 19^4, vi-xxi. b. Hasalden, Eyla, Death of a Mytn. Mew Torkt Friend- |iilJ»p 11*999, JLjO^* 9* launders, LyXa, CuXturaX Difference and ?^edical Care* hew Xorkt Huaaell hom ^^ountiafcion, l^S

103 104

11« McVllXlams.ams, CareyCarey , North from gexiCQg The apanlsh- Spaakini ^ People or the united States, faiiadeiphia a Raw Toriit I* H. Upi^tnoott ana Co.^ 1949. X2. Browning, Marlay, and PaXe MoLamore, A Statistiaal Profile of the Spaniah Surnagjo Population of Texas. Population Sanaa Ho* X, bureau of business Heaaarch, University of Texas, 19o*. ^^» ,„-,...,„, „« •Oenaral Information: Latin American Popu- iati'im,'"Lubboek, Taxaa*" Mlmaographadi City of Lubbock, Texas* ^*- M "•The Extant of Poverty in Lubbock," Himeo- grap}iadl Coa^unlty Planning Council, tfnited Pond^ Lubbock, Texas, Ootober, i:}64. XS. ?loVay, Freda, "League Ifeara Poverty l^eport*^ Lu'..b--^ck AvaXanoha-.^oumal* Lubboek, Texas, March 3$ 19^5, ^-'^* X6* Martinex, HafaaX V*, ^y apuaa Xa Tour iouae* tUm Turks Friendship Press, Ifi^* X7* Brown. P. H., "Hosse Economics Extension Work with HuraX FamiXiea in tha Lower 3ocio«»economic Levels of Our Society." Itoport of Seminar^ ^Cooperative !!xteneion. Hork with Low ii^eome' ^a^i'iiWf * federal '^xiensl'on :^er- viee, ti.'^* 'ifepartmnt 'd.!^ Agriculture, ??SC«'~i52, June, X963. XS. _, Family Eeonomlea He view* Conausier and Pood Eoonoeiics Raaaarch Division, Agriculturi>l Hesetrch Service, 17*3* Papartsient of Agriaulture* kM S2-^, Hsrch* 1965. 19• Liaton, Mariaret I., "Profiles of Poverty*" ^caamaX of Heme Eooaomlea* vol* 5^* ^o* 1, October, Xjtk^ •14* 20. • The War rr. Poverty. A coni^'oa^ional presen- tation* Maron JL/* I^OS* 2X. __ , Currant PopuXation Reoortat Consumer Inaome, j^ries''"r-65,'Mc.'''^3',^8epte3aberir, ^K ^?>^-> i^epart- ment of Commeraa, Departaiant of Census* 22* Fuaco, tSene C*, SchooX-Home Partnership in Depressed TJrban Hei^borhoojs. !J.S, t^partnenf. £f !leallh, ^! ^u- cation, and Welfare. Office of Education, OB 3X008 Bulletin ?^o. J-^, 1964. X05

23. ^, Bduoatlon for a Chtrngtinit World of Work. Report of the panel of Conau tants on Vooaiional Sdu- cation, U*S* Department of HaaXth, Education, and Welfare, Office of Edueation, X9€S. 24 J Currant Population Heportag i?om PoouXa- ISrTSriertjfeis^^ 19b4, U*S* Depai^ment of Cojsraarca, Department of Census* 25. __^.,^^, Edueation and the piaadvanta^ed American, ucatKmatatlc^al Policieroilcios Ooflssisaloyommiseionb of thtkae riationarlationali EEdud - cation Aaaoaiation of tha lilted Statea and the Amarloan Aaaooiation of Sehool Adminlatratora, Library of Congreaa Cataloi^ Card ^o* Cl2-12iS21, 1962* 26* Splndlar, Oeorga D., Education and Culture. *Jew Torkt UoXt, Kinohart mid ^iristoaa,' 'i^bsV 27» * ^e If are in rieyiew^ U.S. Department of Health, fiSeSFIib ^al'ifare Admlni'siration, Vol* 2, Ho* 1, Janu­ ary, X9S^^ ^?i, Bofakidisa, Josnette H*, and Eugenia 3ullivan, "A nov hook at School Dropouts." Health^Iducation and gf^-^^:^,Mg§^<^^^»,^*f; SjPfJt^nt or iieaith, Educa­ tion, and welfare, April, 19o4, xii-xvi. 29# Millar, Irene, "Mueation Speaks.* Journal of Home l^aonomioa * Vol* 5^, ^lo* 1, J?anuary X^i>^* eMmmseMmimMHMiMmiMHWHS^' w ^ » 30• * /v'oriftln.i£. with Low |?oci.o-eoononio Faiilliea and cirouba* ln*aervlca Training for ^xtan^ion Home SO^KKITSIT, St^te Homo Demonst rat iota v)ffice, J^lorida State iifnlvarsity, Tallahaaaea, Florida, April 13«*17, 19^4. 31. Colllnga, nory L., and llarlrs Hichert, "Hesearch Halated to Low Soaio-econoi^ic Population*" Himeo- graphedj a paper preoer^ted at latiaruil v.^orkahop for State Leaders of Homi^ i;a^iomla8 Ext-nslon, Lincoln, Iftftbraaka, Harch 15-^0, 19S4. 32* UodtOf Sadaline C, "Serving the u^ed& of families la Public housing Developments*" Journal of Home Eoonof^lcH* Vox* 55, ?lo* ^, October, X:H>3. 33* ^^lusel , J* C*, The "^ayoholor^y of Clothea* London: The Hogarth freas, LfeS*, im. 106

34* AXlport, 3., FeraonaXity—A PsychoXogical Interpreta- tifia* Saw Yorkt Henry^llolfe and'Co., 1^37. -^ ^ 35» Daai^om, 0* V,. the PayohoXoi^y of Clothes. Prince­ tons PayahoXoglcal iteviaw co*, l^x»* 36* Morton, d* A., "A iJaaia of SaXf-expresslcat throutth the Arts of FersonaX Appearance*" Journal of Home EconcHsics* Vol. 29, Ho. 4, April, ill'77l^S-^j^. 37» Jaaobaon, ¥* E*, "nrst Impre»aio«?ie of Classmates." J. h^i>X, Paychol*. Vol* 29, Mo* 2, 19^5, 148-135. 38. Compton, liorma H* Mli^ographed material, l/tah State University. 39* JersiXd, A*, In. Search of S^yXf* Columbia Dniveraity* Teacaers i^oXXege Bureau of Publicity, llew tork, X952. 72. 49. Hoaenorana, Mary Lou, "SoclaX and FayehoXogicaX Approaoiies to Clot:>lng Hose arch*" JourrtuX of 'lomQ B^onomioo* Vol* 5T, ^o* X, Alanuai^, Mi>5, ^s»-29. 41. BereXaon. S. - and D. Btelner. Humiffl Mhavipr* An Inventory Of Sclent ifio .nmiinWl lewYorki Har- court, Braea, and ^orid, tnc., 19^4, 100* 42. Stone, 0. F*, '*i^pearance mid the Self*" Human Behav­ ior and tha. ^Social [email protected]. .^low fork: MbugHtSon ''' ' ' Ni"fain eo*,^!ili* 43. Hertaler, Aliee H.^ "Froblema of the ^oj*mal Adolescent airl," ;-dlfomla Jou--n'il ..of .n.i^viuri.l&ry ..nduo.'i^lon.> 5i U^—'HP If street, Jai^a, "Dixie'a Hother Ccmfeasors Judf^e C* Kelley of the Juvenile Court of Memphis, '^onnoaaae." Amerioan Ma^aaine, 1268S1-2, 3uXy 193^. 45. Jaany, J* I*, "^ada and Fashion Leadership aeiong Under­ graduate -'(lacn," Joir.tirl of Abnormal m\K\ v>ocial Ps^'-, choloKy, 3StZ75^2Wrmr. 46. Masumoto, Sao^iiko, The Relationship of Dr^ss and 3ehav*.or AesoQlated yjth Dreas to ihe iocl^'' ^artlai- paSion of iha Adolaacant 3oy aoi* Qirl* ?4aster^s thesis, V\Q ^e:m. -iate Jr\l7eraity, IraJue.:4 School, January, 1958* 107

47. Hurlock, Elizabeth S., The fuycholoi^y of Dress. Mew York 8 The ilonaid freaa Co^^mf. 48* Hall, E. T*, ^iXont ,Lanf,uage. ?lew Torkj Doubleday and Co*, Inc*, 1959. 45* Hartman, Oeorga, "Clothing?t JPeraonal Problem and Sootal lasue," ^''^oitrnal of Hof^e iCccnomlcs, June, 1959. ^-^ * imiiniiaiiiiMiiiiTimiiiiiiiM II. mill I, I mmmmmmmn »iiiiiiiiiii* ' "^ ^

50* Compton, Horma H*, "Clothing Fabric Freferences in Helatlon to Seleote?! Physical m\d Personality Charac- Jtr^fH*'*'*'' «^<^»yg>M of Psye|oXoiy, Vol. 54, 1962, 191-195* 51. "iullou^i^i, E., "The Perceptive Problem in the ."Wsthetic Appreciation of Single Colors." British J* pgychol*. Vol. 3, 1908, 406-463. 92. Birren, Faber, Color ^FisycholoEy^^ md.. Color Therapy. Mew %ydo Fark, tiaW itorkV fJnivarsity feoOka, 19(^1.' 53* Dautaah, Felix, "Payeho-physlcaX lieaetiona of the Vascular System to Influence of Llitht and to Imprea- aion Oained through Light." g^oXia CXinica Orlentalia, -^_ . ^ „ _ ^^^ * A*.» MIW.IIIlWll.1 iltlll.lWIIIWIII •>IMII» II » ' III I • .1 1 »' Vol* I, rase. 3 14, 1937. 54. I^hofapson;, Thelna, "Fashion therapy." i2HSHLj2£Ji22£ Economies* Vol* 54, lio. 10, Decei«l>er, l^b2, y3i-^3fe. iiiiiiiaKiiiiii III iiiii>.iiii nil* -^ - w m w m 55. Hoblnson, %ro^ F. I*., Bill rittman, and C. W* Van- cleave, "Report of t^e Latin ksmvltms. S«^otlon Com- r^ttee*" Mii8«0fraphedi Community ^lannlnjc: Council, tinited fiind, Lubbock, Texas?j, April, 19^'l. $6. rarscms, ^abel H.^ "jReseareh Sp-paka," Journal of J?oge Economies* Vol* 5&, Mo* 1, January, X^W* "^ 57* Brown, Hargaret C*, "Sfforta of the Cooperative Exten- sio'" i'^rvice in Coni^uner laucatton for l.oK-'InrrvK*? FamiXlea*" Mwo^^raphedi Federal Extension Service, TT.*^. T>epartner,t of Ar.rlcultu''-, ^asMn.rtori, t>. C. 5B, Pollock, ."Josephines Coog>eratlve Eytanglon ''^ervloe Work with Low-Income FaiaiXieg* Federal a>xtanslon aervlce, IJ.S« Dop'^rtpwnt of Af^.rlcultiure , Octcb^r^ 196^. 59, Schooler, nuth, "Oper^aMon 5€tt?»r .^-cws." ^2^-^*)]. ^^ Home Economics. Vol* 55, Mo. 2, rabruary 1963, 10*- hPmmnx

I* Diploma II* Questionnaire I III* ^uodtionnaire II IV, Leason Flans

108 mmmt i: DiPLcmA

109 110

^

o u £ o tt €)

S -i. kPfEMmx XI: w^sfioMUktm i

111 QUESTIOIWAIRE I 112 1-Iaine phone

Addjress please ^i./o- the follo^ring information about your husband:

1. Cultural background: (check one)

a. Englidi ^d. Japanese g. Spanish

b, French e, Latin ^liiierican h. other (specify)

c. German f. Megro

2. Age last birthday

3. Occupation position held

Employing firm k» Educational background (circle last year completed by husband)

a. Elementary 123U5678

b. High School 1 2 3 U

c. College 1 2 3 U 5 6 please give the follouing information about yourself:

5. Cultural background: (check one)

a. English ^d. Japanese ^g. Spanish

b. French e. L-.trn _j,ierican h. other (specify)

c. German _f. ll^gro

6, Age last birthday number of years married

7. Occupation (if employed outside home)^

8, Employed: full time

part time

9. Educational background 'circle last year you completed)

a. Elemental^- 123^^678

b. High School 1 2 3 1|

c. College 1 2 3 U 5 6 113 Questionnaire p. 2

10. List the organizations in uhich you participate:

11. List all of your children by giving sex, age at last birthday, and

residence:

At Home Away from home Sex Age yes 1 no In tOTjn Out of tOTm

I 12. How long have you lived in Lubbock?

13• Hoif long have you lived at your present address?

Ii;, Do you own your own home? Rent? l5. Do you own your ovm car? yes no l6. What household appliances are available in your home?

a. washing machine e. radio

b. clothes drier f. television

c. electric iron g* sewing machine

d. electric ironer (mangle) h. other (specify)

17. newspapers available in your homei

a. Lubbodk Avalanche/Journal

b. Home town newspaper (other than Lubbock)

c. Foreign language paper

d. Other (specify)

' • IIA (Qiicstionnaire p. f

18. Hail order catalogs available in your home:

^« Sears c. Spiegel

."b* Montgomery-vJard d. Other (^ecifj^)

19. I^JbAt radio stoftions do you listen to:

Station Morning Afternoon Serening r ' • ' '• • '" '• •— "-" -' KFYO (790)

KCBD (1590)

KDAV (580) '

ICLBX (13U0) j KLLL (li;60) •

KSSL (950)

' ' ' 1.. . t— • -. .. > Other (specify

• ' «!•• 1 . I.I .1 • •

20. List television channels you watch:

Pi-- .• • Chaiinel iiorning Afternoon Evening I ^ i Channel 11

• Channel 13

Channel 5

Other (specify)

1 •' 1 " • • •

21. What arc your hobbies?

22. Where do you do your laundry? a, v:ashing_

b. dr^rin,;

c• ironing 115 Questionnaire p. i;

23. Are you satisfied with your laundry arrangements?

a. very well satisfied

b. satinfi d

c. not satisfied at all

2lu I'^at household tasks do you like most? least?

TASKS [ like ' dislike

All housework

Cooking

Light Cleaning and dusting

Washing

Ironing

Heavy cleaning, floor polishing

Dish washing

Mending

Sowing

Other (specify

25. Did you find it difficult to manage your laundry, mending, -.uwing

or clothing care Triien you were first married? yes

no

If yes, please list

26, Do you still find it difficult to manage these activities •' yes

no

If yes, please list 11*5 Questionnaire p. 5

27. Following arc some activities that most people do in hoiicnakiiig.

Please place an X in the colur.in i-falch best describes your reaction:

1 I have I have I have I do not much occasional no have this difficulty difficulty difficulty responsibility HOUSEKEEPING Care and cleaning of equipment

1 Washing clothrr;^ j 1 Drying clothrs 1 CLOTHING 1- Mcncling f tL Sevring for the family \ Planning clothing r •3urchascs

Shopping for cloth- s I-LiNAGEMSNT '' ^ — 1 Planning tir.ic and work pchcdulo

Planning family budget

Making decisions

28, I'Jherc do or did you get your ideas and techniques on how to G..W,

care for clothes (laundr^T-, dry-cleaning,etc), mending, wardrobe planning, etc.

ilothcr He ighbors i'lcwspapers and 'Magazines Mother-in-law Commercial sources Radio and T.V. Other relob ives Books

Friends High School Classes

29, VJhat suggestions do you offer regarding what you think shoulJ be

included in programs for teenage girls to hotter prepare thorn

for solving homcmaking problems? 117 Questionnaire p. .-> 30, Arc you now (or have you in the past three years) using instaL lir.cnt

credit for any of the following items? (please check) I'/ashing Machine Clothing

Drier Car

Sewing Machine T.V.

Mangle (ironer) Other (specify)

3U. Do you sew ,Cor: y.Qur o.'iil 'rr>ji

your grandchildren (give number and ages)

your husband

children of friends, relatives and/or neighbors

other (specify)^

do not sew

32, Do you own a scaling machine? yes

no

33. If you own a sewing machine, is it in good repair' yej

no

3U. If you do not own a sewing machine, do you have easy access to

one? yes

no

35. About how mnny garraents do you malce in a year for your family?

0-5 per year

6-10 per year

11-15 per year

more per year

none Questionnaire p. y 36. Eow did you learn to sew?(courses you have had)

^High school Singer Sewing Machine Course

Junior High Other (specify)

Adult Education None

37. How do you feel about your sewing? Arc you:

Inexpe rienced

J-loderatcly experienced

Experienced

38. i^Jhen you buy clothing and/or fabric,from x^hat type store do you

buy? Department store Mail order

Chain store Good Will

Specialty shop Other

39. How do you get your clothes?

1 Most Some None Buy ncxT

/•--•" - •• As gifts ^ Hand-dovms

Buy used

Work for used

Other •i •••• 1 . .» •...... - 1— How do you prefer getting your clothes?

At what places do you obtain iiK5st of your used clothing?

Rummage sales Good Will

neighbors Other (specify)

Relatives

Salvation Anny 119 rxicstionnairc p. 8

Some­ "jocs not no Yes ^'0 times apply response Make it over (corpletely change it into new garment) Re-fit Ch^uigc hems

Change sleeve length

Change trirmin;^

Use as is

Other (specify)

>Jhen you buy new clothes or materials, hoiir do you find out whether they

should be washed or dry-cloanedj or whether they will shrink or fade?

Ho ~1 Yes LJO Sometimes Response

Ask clerk

Read labels

Use OT-jn judgement Other (specify) 1 iiO. Do you have the kinds of garments needed by you and your family for

all activities and occasions? yoi

no

If no, explain; hi. Do you and your family members like your vjardrobe? yes

no

If no, csplain: i;2. Are you interested in attending classes to learn more about

Sewing (new fabric) Laundry" methods

Remodeling Clothing care

Storage of family clothing Other (spjcify)

Planning clothing budg.t for family 120 Questionnaire p. 9 ii3. Do you have friends who would like to attend such classes? (give

names, addresses and phone numbers). APFE^IDTX Ttl? QUESTIOI^HAIRE II

121 122

OUESTIOimiRE TO EVALUATE EFFECTIVENESS OF PROGRAM (For use by interviewers only) lalysis of location: (i) Do other class members live in neighborhood? (ii) Is neighborhood well-maint&ined or slovenly? (iii) Is house well-kept or slovenly: ^ ^inside _^ ^outside fhat do you feel you learned from the series as a i^ihole? , (a) k^hich lesson did you enjoy the most? ^You and Your Hair _Yo-a and the VJorld of Color Jou and the Care of Your Clothes J^ou and the Wardrobe Magic • tcmm.t^ntmmm'M^_Yo u and How Others See You (b) V/hat did you like abaat the lesson? (a) VPnich lesson v/as the most useful to you? You 3iid Your Hair Yon and the World of Color Jou and Care of Your Clothes You and Wardrobe Kagic You and How Others See You (b) Sjq3lain

(a) V/ere ther lessons which you did not enjoy? (b) Picplain Did you i'.ant to learn soroething from any of these lessons which you dii not 1-ar

(a) Did you attend the lesson on hair care? ^ ^ _^^ (b) .'Jhat do you feel is the most important thing in taking cars cf your hair?

<.-.»Ci.pi>.Wto«.ai>g^gy<^i.iii.1j»a>|WH]HM-if»i»L<i^cg.g>t*igar»M*^ (a) Did you attend the lesson on color?^ (b) In tr,/ing on colors, what colors looked best on you?_ Do you know why?_____^__(explain)_____^___^___ ,_. (c) Which coloi'3 did not look good on you? ^

(d) Did you find that the colors of your clothes are the same as the on s \; i ^'' you found to bes. for you? ,_^ .,..__ ._»._ . . 123 ;a) .•^ner you buy or make clothes, how do you ?^elect them? (according to -'

(c) '//hy do you prefer this style? (comfort, easy care^ beccnilng, etcj

m-v»ir"!smrT*g •tttr)K0c^~tJ»ntnw (d) What kinds of colors do you like in clothes? ____dark colors dull colors others light colors bright colors (a) Do yo^a reii?effiber any of the points we discussed about how to dress to look slimmer? (ex: dull colors, dai'k colors, plain or subdued rtrints, etc^)

mi 'im II 111. Hill. ll.|i.WIIMWHMM|ilHII|iMI 1l—illlM».liCIHnBMWII .1 tM i.WI (b) Have you checked your clothes for these Points?_____ 'w^That did you find?

wmi I ii»i Ml .11 iMMUMiHiiiw*' I III.III!I ii M •.mi. III III. I nwi» iiimwi ..n i ii

(e) Do you sort clothes as sho^-m in the demonstration?^ a». JI., • »t^im^maa^»i .t^ipj^wmtmL- (f) Did you do so before lesson? (a) Did you attend the lesson on "You and Clothes •"'agic?___ ^___ (b) >yliat did you learn from the lesson? ^^^^^^ .^•^•„.- . . . ^.-. (c) Did you find my ways that you can stretch your vrardrobe to be more use:.Vi].

now? (explain)^^______,____^.._, ^._,„,.,_^ ,^.....^. ...,- . (d) Do you repair your fc-jnily's clothes? (EXILAIN) __ (e) Do you ever re-niake clothes? Ihat? (f) If you do not remake clothes, v;culd you like to :'3a.;^n how to do so? X24 When :rr. purchase clothe.^ for you or your family, do you decide:

...^.«^ Alcrne _„__A.f-c€r asking husband for permission and/or opiniono

Do you o3* members of your faiffdly ever find that you do not attend certain occasions or events because you. do •^'ot have right clothes?

If yes,* specify for whom and what occasionso___.,_^^_^__ (husband, teenagers, younger children, and occasions) On one Friday (3/12/65) there was a class which you did not attend (noone did)o

Vfs tharo some special reason you did not attend?,^ Wflwii >yiiiiii.ii.i ii.mww II I * !«•'K^m^u.• Did you know we were having the session? MAHW^neM^MnqMu Did you realize it ivras a lesson you were expected to attend?

(a) Did ycai attend the lesson 'Tou and How Others See You"? m0u ca»»1*»-*j-,(0-«*M.-s;r=-.'A~M-iVax^-i.-~^->^>t^t»Jttri^3»ima>^VBWt»' (b) >/hat did you learn from the 3.esson? amimiwwujMrwu^jiJiAM—MiF^i^vtiiij.wiriWiv»* '-M\ K** •• tn.«v (c) Vvere the points covered by the speaker interesting to you?^

(d) Do you feel the information is useful to you?

(e) /ould you rather know more about other things

(&) Did you discuss the lessons in this series with your family?^

(b) ATiat did they think of them?^ . •a9*«.rti»H>*wc!>i'«»>M»P««MM«.fc^.c»«»»W'rwM™«a«w','. (a) Did you discuss the lessons with your friends

(b) What did they think of them? M I'jUWipwmmfci.

(a) Ivould you be interested in another series of lessons'?9

(b) '"/hat would you like to learn? ^.^_

renovation , make>-up

more about clothes care ^_ more about hair styling

choosing color (more) more about manners and social .gi^acei

more ablut choosing more about posture jrtyles for the figure more about clothes coordination storage of clothes more about grooming

other (specify) ^ , 125

In these <^assesy do you prefer to:

(a) Sit and listen onl^o (b)., ,, discuss9 (c) participate in workshop type activities (do something or mal: something and have teacher help you). For the classes, vfould you prefer to meet: (a) at Guadelupe Centero (b) ,_ in the homes of class members o 1 niiiiiiMfiin mil IIw ^ U fl Did you attend sewing classes? ^ __^ (a) If yes, how long did you attend?

What did you make? »i3MUI JT-.TCaCJt»gJ (b) If not, would you be interested in attending classes to learn how to se-vf"? APPEMDij m L ,.,1 VJ -V' 1 FLiAJ,*•»««r »

126 1?7

rnTBODOCTIO*! 7*0 SEf»tK?> tmmmmmm Vho purpo9o of thin jserlifB 1& to rrivo yon on idea ©f aoiw of th« mony thlnjjs thftt ar« fun and Intereatln*^ to know nbout B©li»ct,tnft arui carlntt ^oJf' clcth«« and th^ art of persona* »ir»p«»ir^??ce. M« all hmv« a cert?>ln anount of good looks, and we are f^oinj* to Rtrlv« to tak^ a?tvanta;?:« of thi*:^^ kmonr, th« thing© w«^ 1*111 l**ftm Is how to make tho i^ozt of what

'*> hone thfit yon will b^ Irte7*<^f?ter1 enou^*h In seme of the progra^jp to ask for mor# lessons on thos« subjects. •^at you will le^rn * ^ach l«»son will be only « small portion of whftt -^ron will want to know. I2'd

tm mp fm WORLD OF cohon

0)»J«otlv««t t© ©roat© Intaraat in mo of color and textura to l»prova ©ffaatlvanasa of i#arar©to©. t© Improva baal© ondorotondim^ tor md skills in ualng color ond taxtur© In clothing. Suppliaa ond oquipmont fi«©(3©4i J.C. fonnoy flliustrlpat #2 • *Color md You" #3 - "Color aa You ¥aar tt^ Fllaatrip projactor ond acraan Extandlon cord (If naa^d) tal»la for rroja©tor Mlrrora FiMs^rl© «wat©h©a in ooXid ooloras yallow rod neutrals t gray fcclR© bin© r«<2l yallow ijcig© yellow pink l^lack l»lu© pliKk whito yolXow greau rray l»lua gr«©n aavy puro bXvm Othar ©olora (If 4©alre^) could bo auppllod by ©tudants bringlni^ aoll

XV. Sui9»iary of l©«8on and quastion© (mention oth«r point© thoy tti^t wl»h to hav© lessons on at a futura tla©) V« iar©ak me8it>©r© Into ?troup» (of th©ir own choocing) to try color© on thomacliraa. (laat 15 »lnut«©) 130

YOU AMD mm mnw OF comn (a r©ady*to»ua© packet for u«« by l&y«»lead©r)

^o oro all endowed nith a cert^n amount of good looks. A© X look around t^e room^ X ©«© we all have many of the beauty Ingredient© in co«mon«—we all have eyas, n<^«0 mouth, hair**-aiid tli©»© ittgr©dleat© are all in color* ^0 all have tii^roo^^smd moat of us want to ©hang© thea.

SQV-O waat to look thlnf^arp ©oaB© vomt to look heavier, fher© ar« thoae who would Xiko to bo tall«r, and oth«rs shortor* 3o, w© all hav© good points and bad points. I'o look our very heat, we must take advantai^e of the mod point© and ©afsiouflag© th© le©a dealra&l© point©» ^oday, w© are goiag to find out ahout color, and honf w« ©ati make It wow^ tor u© Sff w^ orom without shswglng much except our attitudes* Oolor ha© certaii^ function© in our llve©«»«lt i© a spiritual quality. Oolor ©an enrich our lives; it can «;lv© us pl©a©ure^ eiccit© us^ or @ak© us ©ad or tired, fhe color© w© choose indieate our taste ond personality* Clothes talk ah out u© in a la^guai^ all t^eir owns therefor©, when w© plan our wardrohe, we must consider our personality, tesRpera- nent, Individiial colorlnig: ond stafidard© of our own personal

©har%i« (Show ^.C. F«nney filaistrlp #2 - "Color «nd tou," ©lidos 1 - 5,7>8.U,l?,19,20,22,a3.25t?(>-?8,3*i» 131

Uo hav© seen that all colors have certain undertones. I^e can hotter understand color by classifying color© as wara and ©ool* fh© war» color© have yellow la th«s (therefore a yallow und©rton©}, and we can resiomher thci^ by the warra thing© w© ©©• in nature*—th* sun and fire, and autuim leaves have warm, yellowish colors. (Hold ^ip swatches of yellow, orange, and a yelXow«*red«) Wars color© are usually ©xcltlni? or cheerful looJrlng. fho cool color© c^taia t>iue In varied amount©. We can reasfiilier cool color© by the cool looi«ing tting© in nature«^th© aky, graas, and clear 2>lue or ^roon lakes. ^e»« color© are restful loolcln^r. iUoXd up ©watches of hlue, green, m^d purpXo^) Mom Xot m- go further with undertones* All colors rtave either a ^lue or yellow undertone* Look at these two rodsi (hold up a hlue«*red and a yellow-red). One la a Morm rod'^thot 1© with a yellow undertime; the other 1© a cool red—^ith a hlue undertime. Can you tell which 1© th© cool mdt thicli th© warm red? Horo are two pink© (hold up a y©llow-*pink and a hlue-piak). Whieh is war^t Which is cool? Mhioh of the©© greens (hold up a yallow-trr^en and a hlue-green) i© warm? larhich i© cool? '^o could go on and on, dlatingulahing warm and cool for every color. Our c^i^leacions follow thi© ©ame rule for warai and cool* Soift© cottplcJtions are warts, with a h&aio y©llow undor- tone to the ©kin. Other complexions have r blue jr»dertone 132

and are conaidered to he cool* Which ty>e are you? (Have til© laesiher© of the audienee decide which tyxi© they are.) «© »tt©t wear color© which will eahance that booio under* tone, and avoid those whieh reflect unhe©

TOU AMD OL&tilZS UHOtC

Ohjeetlvea; to develop an utuderis^tanding of Isaalc imrdrobo planning;, la order to (1) coordinate part© of wardrobe for A^ullest use (2) ©hooee ©lothe© appropriate tor occasion (3) Ijwdget :jptiidlng for fas&lly clothlnit to Inclu^ jaalntenanoe a© well a© new clothea (%} purchJtse clotaiag and fal>riy© wi©#Xy. fo create an interest in caring for and repairing cloth­ ing ia order to receive full v^lue for each article* to create an interest in re-isaieing unused article© in order ^o «tretell th© clotuiiig dollar* 3i;qpplie© m^d e^uipuient n^^dOiU Household finance, M^iey management filisatrip - "Manag- lnn Your Clothing Dollar* Projector l$©reen 1?al»l« for projector Eartcfisioii cord Mand-cut hullttiaat •felea Hueva©.* # MF-€^6. Texas AIM diversity, foxo& Agricul­ tural li^xtension Sarvlce, Collet© Stallion, texas* (5«e pocket) «»A aood Fit in Your Preaa,** TUE. 2-901 (Filiias eode l$-l). Uni­ versity of Kentucky, Cooper­ ative Extension Service. Agri­ culture and ilom© Economics, l^exington, Kentucky. (See pocket) •Are You Buying a Coat or Suit?,* M.E* a-90^ (Filing code 16-1-5)» Pnivereity of Kentucky, Cooper­ ative ExteneloA Service, Aijrl- culture and Mot&e Economic©, IsCEinfet^t ^ntucky. (S«« P' Clothe© and accessorieti Dit^ ©tore accessorie© cf good taste and simple ©carve© and accessorie© to siaKe yourself. Coordijnate© (solid color ©kirt© with blouses and top© which eon bo coordinated Sampleti to show idea© for renovation: Shirt with elbow patch ^ock with iron-on knit patch lit

Ihirt - nlria*^d for i-e-cuttl . * tto chilr!'»i shirt Coat - pinned for re-cutting into chile*© coat "Wardrot» Survival Kit* (repair rmterials Includli:^ needle©, thread, lru a;irliv; or cc^'iservatlv©? Your clothe© can tell others all these things. Are your clothe© ©aying to other© what you would Xiko th-*m to say? XX* Ftlustrip IXX* Ho-4 clothe© 0iscuasio?j of '^J:Ar6robo planning {l>eginnlag with what you have, mnor^ you go, *^h»t you do, r.-id what you need) A. Planning Simplicity 1* one of tm greatest: virtues of n well-tel^'^ct^d -•/ar^lroba. It yoa ii.@liact aac^i ite?a with aarc, you will naaa only a few pieces to look well-dressed. It*a not th« quantity y:u have, hut ttit ooordiaation and u©e you ssaiee of the one© you do have. Am you actiially using ev€«ry iileee of clothing hanf^lng In your oloset? Ta>t© a look at your clothea. What do you hfcve you can use a© it i»? iJj&t could be rsa-mndej what mu©t be discarded {don*t keep it if it cajii*t he used—it Just ta#:©© up valuable space). ^ow you can corialder what you n^od to huy new. Conilder upkeep (cleunin^j, repair, r^placeaerit), fit ijuality of fabric, smil worksannahlp* (Go over these points, uains hand-outs.) 0. W'ardroli© coordination (3hoi^ now a £»asic droes can be made to go different place© and look different by varied uee of accessorle©. Show ho?, well-chosen coordinate© can stretch the wararot>e aiid the budcet.) IV. Hevlval t'jchnli'.aea A. Glothija^?; repair and care (patchifsg and d^coratin^ with Iren-^n tap??, tumin.f> collar© of shi;^ts, u^lng detachahle collars or hrald or old ©oat©, elhow pitssh'Sa, .ttc—a?ik n^jlloncc ^or Idtafj) B* Benovatlon of clothing (show how lart© shirt© and coatfi at ill in good condition can b« made into children*© clothes, dro^ooo &on bo rs-^ad© with skirt aad p^rt af top with eontrtsatlng nat^rlal, cutting off ©leave© on ©iilrt©, dresses, re-^ake ijaa»0 ©uit into little hoy*®, etc.—©s'^c audlaac« for ideas) ?* Sunsmary &&d questions (fuffestion© for f-iture clasaea in renovation) 13B

YOU mp HOW (y^fmm SK:; YOD Hair Care and Qrooming

Ohjectivesi To create sow© Interet^t in iroo©lng hy showln^; no.i wowen can care for ©nd style their own hair, thereby laprovlng thair porr-cnsil appearance with the resources they rilresdy hrive. To create Interest in i^provln^^ personal grooi^lag throu^ knowledge about care of si:ln, hody, hands, and nail©. An instructor froa Ishell-Fowell Snautv Co:ilege, Juanlta Kellberg, cave this lo»©on for the firat serie© of classes* She gave the ladies a nl^-seos-raphed sheet entitled "Cut Yourself a Piece o** Parser^1 tjsiproveHj^jnt*' (see at end of outline), and talked about personal hy/ilene In reicard to the hody, ©kin, hands, nail®, heir mxd clothes. She alao laentloned the Importance of ooBtur^. Mrs. Hellfoerg empha- al«ed car© of th-^ skin tYtnynrh cle?inln?!j nnd correct use of coi^metlcsi anle^ B. ^rash fruits (\ *^^©t, fish. Of^^8 or c^;ce*?e r. Milk E. Cereal F. Fat (hutter, hnnnn) (If sfctn lat oily, •^v-id fatt- fco-!??. nrlnlt water to prevent dehydration.) 1.-

II. «3ath—stay noat arid swaet. A dally hath 1© ^ wu^^^tt Xt Ray he a britamif\*x tub, a ©hower, or a ©ponf-eT^Ja© a ml Id ©oap and rinaijs th© skin well. Then apply a deodorant* ilosie rcaedie© for deodorant© (sjay be used on f«et a© wall as under finm); A. aoda ?.. r»od-ii and tiilcu??. powder—f:iua 1 parts (Keep underarms shaved clean.) III. Cleansing your '":^c« A. Use miXd BOO^ mxd wara w?itf»r. Mr*^i©agc v«ith upward stroke© to hairline—erevlce?$ around nose ond mouth. D. Kinae fac© with war® water, tnon cold* Dry tnor- ou/hly. C. For dry ©kin use baby oil. 'So%-> charaoteriatics of dry ©kint I. Feeling of tfiihtncun—pulls 3. i?->-'lfi tight erter soa;)-and-Kator irfajhln^ 3. Chop© easily 5. Itay hav0 iclosiv;-- app©aranc^ D. Car© of dry skins 1. Avc'ld use of soap an-:' water on face 2. Don^t scrub the skin—waah gently (vrill flake) 3* Creaia—cleanse for thr*>y silnut-f^s nlti^ht and jiom- i;it 4. U©e ©kin fr«]»©hencr—'"tv.sturl^er H. Oily akin—some ch-ractei"l;'tl<^'^ 1. Enlarged pores 2. Skin oninoB eue to pe^r^plr;>ticn fm C^ro of oll*.^ $Hln 1. CX^B'^^o f&.^e wlt'i oreart?,, t-ut quickly ro;^ove. Follow ^)y a aoap-and-water washing. :?• Clean ^kXn thr^o tl^s a day 3. tJ©© ©kin freshener or astrlnp^nc—.?Ucohol or witch ua^sl (froja druf ©tore) ^. Cljafigc make-up at tiiddt^y and e^/onlne. ^n't Just repowder (cakes tha r^a':)-up and cloi^s the pores). last^^a^ blot «hlriy area 'dita tissue* CI. aeneral •'skln car© 1. 'iQino-m sake-up with cleanalag creaks is a fore washlni; it 2. Cl^anst facif befor-3 ^^oinr to tJ-^-i 3. In tfc€ r?»cmlng, usa \iot^r on face to restore nonaal balance du-^lng; SI'-J^P IV. Hake-up—It ahould Icok natural m^i net pslnfs^. Use good powvler has:*-. Spr^?ad It on thlnl; md s'^oothl-;. *5-a*^cfc color or 15?»tlc>^ thit Ulen^'! rflth your sitln. A. Foundatlont (I) put llt.,le da?^? ovir ikin of face end throat J (2) spr^iai It rlth ouaalcn^J cf flnj^ers 14

in upward ©troke© till iiicln i© si^oothiy covered, don't rub; (?) remove excess foundaiiion. ^. Apply al;*o on throat ana u^ok—double chiri 5* ro ©elect foun with lip color. Should give natural ©lush and rmalthy IOOK. I. Start with dot on cheek uritMr center of the eye onn aXond toward outside -^f face la half-moon ©hat^e 2. Keep color Ui?pi and to outside of the face 3» Do not use lipstick: a© © ©u^stitace for roui^e Lfjose powder—should always be used 14 first isRK€?-un of the day. live© tno mii\ a fine texture and add© a dainty toucj-* to cosspiexion. if «|>plleci well, it «ay not need to huve any toiiohi-ups. 1. Lightly pat on loose oowder witti a puff till you look a© ir fac^ ha© boon in barrel of flour 31* ipush or wi^e off exce«»a wit * n brush—paint brush 3. Select rignt color for your ©icln 01 iiyeb row©—(p luck in Ii) 1* Follow line of arch 2. Fluek orUy on under ©Id^ *«

5* Typo© of rrlleirs—larfo for soft look (demon­ strate) 6. rj&t dry C. Comb-out 1. Brua^ %mlX for a Rslnute or two 2. Arrange with oomb (dcf^onatrate) D* n^ir J3t:?llni? 1. **^M ©tyio give© you a lift 2. fry sstyling when &hn,mpooXnt^. 3. Befit ©tyle for you a. Xhin ©tr-^.lf^ht hair can bo long b. 'fhicJc curly hair be©t shorter—scmetimes appear© bushy If too Xongi c. Lons ©tralfht hair moko-^ tall, thin person taller and thinner d. Loti^ full hair nay moko short person look shorter ©, Too ahort mn.kon -jou X^ok scalped f. Hediu^t short is good on monj people (cool an*? ea^y-carr?) I. liair ©lioald be cut or trl^^nel regularly to cut off -dead dry er^d© E. Brush dally—brush throu^i hair 11 r.^tly—don't ©crapo scalp off, (3oft'nnd "'hiny) ?X. Hani cure A. Clip nail© when too Xoms or ©plit 5. Clip When dry—will split if wet or soft C. Saery board—ft 1^ In r>n*t illi»ectIon—softly 0. For?a soft oval of nail tip (dmmnBtrot^) E* Push back cuticle after wa-^hlng dishes when hand© ©oft. VMO cotton over fin.gernall. 142 \C!r I **. ^ t p ' > f\^ Kb 3] \* / Livitra

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YOU AHD jiow cyrnsRS SEX. YOU l»o©ture, Pole©, ©nd ictiquctte

Objective©! To develop 8o»e s©lf-confid©nee in wo»en throught (1) better poetur© and sfiore r,f«ceful carriage. (2) Knowledge of ao9©e social rules. During the first ©erie© of elasaes, this leeson was given by Connie ^illia«©, instructor fro»i the Robert Spence School. She talked about the ©even keys to poiset postuz^, walking, diet and exercise, social graces, make-up, hair care and styling, and dress* After deTnonstratlnpi: exercises for walking, ©tending correctly, and sitting, Jrs. Williaias helped each woman Individually to practice tnese exercise©• During the seeond serle©, Janet Maupln and Carolyn Andree, Tech student©, gave the lesson. The following 1© tlwir outlines X. Introduction A. ie would like to talk about two types of women who attract attention— 1. took unusually attractive a. Look unusually unattractive or ©loppy a. ^o are all interestod in looking our best—for men in our lives and our own ©ati©faction C. Qualities of good appearance I. Pleasant expressiiwi (smile) a* Interest in other© (look into eyes) 3. Cleanliness #. Maintenance of optimum welj'^ht 5* Oood manner© 6. Oood grodsinK 7. Qood posture TI Posture A. All of the©© point© are inportant, but perhaps postur« Is as iKtportant as any of them B. Posture i© the frantework around which the rest of you is built. It affects the way you feel, look and think 14 i

C. What eonstitutes vood posture? I* ^bon sitting a. Back straight b. Shoulders back but not ©tiff c. Head up d. Knees to^iether e. May or sMiy not cross leg© at knee or ankle but not at calf f. iiand© in lap (Janet demonstrate) 5?. Standing posture a* Head held high b* Shoulder© relaxed - ©houlder blade© flat ©, Back straight d. Tumaiy pulled In e. Knee© flexed f. Feet ©traiifht ahead (Carolyn demonstrate) 3. Check your posture and see if you can do sowe- thinjg about it. a* Stand with your back to wall, heel© 3 - M inches froai wall and feet parallel, b. Head and shoulder© should touch th© wall and th© hottest should be preesed ©i^ainet the wall* e* Full in tuiaiiy muscle© (thi© lift© the chevt and straightens the curve in the beck). d. Practice the beat posture for you. Look your best at all tiseeei (Exerci©es walk ©round the room as nearly in t'lls position a© possible) M. Do's and doii*t3 about ©tandin^ a* t>o - stand with feet together b. DonH - wake a Mabit of standing with leg;© apart* Xt*s masculine and makes hlp3 look larger. e. Don't - round shoulders and stick out your tumsiy (ungraceful and uncomfortable). d. DoriH - stand In sway-backed position with bust protruding in front and rear protrud­ ing in back with stiff knees. (Walk around the roois as nearly in thi© position ss possible) 5* Malkins a. Walk a line. Follow two ©trings, 2 Inches apart* The Inside of each foot falls on the ©trlnr^. Keep your feet stralgnt ©head. b. Measure your stride—too long steps tnrow your body off balance. Too short steps :7?ake pitter patter. c. Move with a swing movement from rib cage, Stt)p—heel© fir«t then ©hift weii^ht to ball of the foot. \Srinn toot down lisrhtly. Xeep knee© firm, ©lightly flexed but not rigid. d. Hand ©winp^^ no more than from front to th© back of the body. e. Walk with confidence ond ease* All motion in a r?raceful walk coi^es froa the hip Joint down. f. X»afine a bowl of ©oup on your head. Try not to ©pill a ©ingle drop, and in the proceaa you will develop the smooth, $trace- ful carriage of a model. e* Hand©—keep palm© toward body and elbows in. 6. A »i»ple exercise - to help improve posture a. Oraap a firs« t^^ect b. Stretch arfi© forward c* Stand erect with feet flat on floor d. 0o a slow knoo bend, lifting heels from the floor e. Koop back ©tralfht, hip© tucked under f* Stand up ©IcHffly 7* ^ooi^e conscious of good posture and practice it dally—©itting and atandiaif 8. Stooping and bending - a. 0©n*t bond over from the waist b. Bond the knee©, keep back ©trai^it c. 0«t up by pushing with roor foot ^* Carrying? a* Try to maintain ^ood posture. Carry baby hi#4 and not on hip bone. b* Switeh artt© ©o you won*t .have a constant pull on MaM«inaMikHHMi«A>aMinMiiMMMiMiMM XY, Introduction© - Better posture is one aspect of a char»inr appearance. Another aspect is the way you raeet end tslk to people* A* Shaking hand© 1. FIFIB I* Mot too strong, not too weak 3* Look directly into person's eye© and smile B* Swilin^ 1. Lift the comers of your nouth 2. Take deep breath and asille, no laatter how dlffi cult it 1© 3. Opon your mouth when you ©peak C. Have bright eyes, "thoy reflect your happiness. Warm flowing eye© win favors* D* Xntrodueinc your©elf I. "Hhon you oro ot a party or gathering 2* When you ©ee ©oiMione you hav© seat before 3* gever greet a person with a negative atatement-' *Yott don*t repseaiber ise, do you?" H« Heplies I. How do you do 3. ^^ello 3. Smile I* X*m very glad to meet you F. Preaeatation© 1. Same af© and ©ex 2* Han to woman 3. Young person to adult 0* Conclusiont to end thi© ©esaion, we thought it would be nice if each of u» could isseet everyone in the ro^i before we leave. If you are sitting by ao8!Cone you doa*t know, introduce yourself. Or if there 1© a new-eos^r in the crowd, see that ©he get© Introduced to the people around you. n7

Objective©1 to create an awarenes© of the Ij^jportanoe of proper care of clothing* To develop an understanding of how to properly uae laundering equipment and suppliea. To ©timulate desire to care properly for clothing daily in order to receive optitsuie wear froai garments. !Hii» le©»on wa© given by student© fro© fexa© '2'ech. during the firct ©erics, it wa© given by Sue iollingsworth and Karen foisl^orde, student© enrolled in the advanced equip- sient course* Catherine McCarty, a graduate student in the DepartJsetit of Clothing and textile©, e^ave the leason duzrinj^ the seeond series* fhe ©ai©© outline was used both time©, and a Proctor and CaMble fil^strip, •Foou© on the Family Wa©h,* wa© uood* A hand-out bulletin, *Focua on Fasiily Waah," wa© given to each woisan* The foUowlftg i» th© outline u©ed? I* Introductions Mow many have done a family wash? Silly <|ue©tion Every hosMiisaker must Some are experienced—sosse are not Confused by ®aiiy product© and boxes in ©tore? XI, How x-iany Have washers? Three type© of washers - non-automatic or automatic III, %ree basic ingredientsj detergent, hot water, agita­ tion or action X?* Six atepa - to get really clean i« not accidentt can't dusip ia clothe©, pour In detergent, and put money in ©lot and expect good result© A* Sorting Ended up with pink sheet? Bundle of clothest I* White and color fast 2* Waah and wear 3* Delicate and lightly ©oiled ©* Heavily soiled \thy do you think it is necessary to sort in ,:roupsT 1*8

9. Fre-treatlnij 1. Certain thing© to do before waehingt a. ©ipp©re b. pocket© c. tear© d. greaae and other ©pot© e. extra dirty cireas—collar 3* Demonstrate collQr and cuff© (shirts stay white loficsr) C* Select proper water temperature 1* ilo«30n used to boil—not necessary—han^s cloth 2. Very hot for heavily soiled work clothe© and white thinc^s 3. Wat«r too hot to touch 4* Warm water for nylon© and wash and wear 5* Hinse in cool or warm a* keep© clothe© from wrinklln: and eaaier to iron b. save© hot for other washing: D. Select correct detergent 1. Cocifused in eJ^od®*^ ©tore? 2. ISav© special detergent for special jobs 3* Buy all-|>urpo©e detergrent—used for all our laundry ^. L«»f-©udeln^: and hi^h sudsing (which machine)- (©how exaii^ples) 5* Afsount of detergent to uset (laeasur© 1/2 C— then 1 C) (which type saachlne) 6. ^lay use extra detergent for very dirty loada 7, Less detergent for ©mail load 1. ""tised to kill f-erm© left in saachine (ersphasixe public laundry) 2* Also unod to get noro ©oil out of clothes and make thess whiter 3. Bloat oomf^on t/pe—liquid chlorine %. Hot uaed cm all clothes—colored (will fade) 5* Safe on white clothes 6» Amount to uae—tseasur® 1/2 C and 1 c 7. Whioh washer for eaoh ataoant $• Put ia bleach before clothes are in washer (Have yott ever poured bleach directly into the washer?) 9. Xf clothea are in first, mix bleach with a quart jar of water before pouring onto the clothe©* 10. 3how how to adx 11* Xf pour pure bleach on clothe©—eat a hole 149

Bitting A* 'Hot neoe»©ary if you u©e hot water and good detergent 2. Only suOce© clothes look whiter S« Waahing action ia next 8t©p 1* Action of waoher fore©© watar throui^ the clothe© to wa©h out ©oil and dirt 2* Can^t control in coin-operated laundry 3* Can cofitrol how well water move© through clothes 4. 00 not pack clothes in*—place in lightly 5* Over-loading keep© water from moving easily through clothe© F. Final ©tept rinsing 1* Heaoves ©oil©d water and deteri^nt 2* Xn wringer—rinae two tisie© 3» Can uae cool or wares water Follow alx ©tap© and have a aucce©©ful and cleaner waah* Before we ©how you a filsiatrip, are there any Questions? 3ee filsi©trip—©how thing© we have been talking about* Filsiatrip—"Focu© on Family Waah* (the ©cript waa r©-word©d to ©ii^^lify for the level of audience) 1* A© we have already ©een, there are ©ix ©teps to follow in order to get clothe© really clean and to keep thea in good shape* These ©top© ar©t a* ©orting clothe© carefully b. pre-treating the clothea o. ©eleating proper water temperature d* the right amount and kind of waehlng product e* correct amount of waehing action f, rinaing item© well 2. We sort clot^ie© according to whether thoy will fad© or not* Xf they will not fade they are called color faat* We also consider the type of fabric, whether it i© h©avy and ©trong as in work clothe© or whether it is nylon and very d«licate« tno amount and kind of soil or dirt on the clothing iau«t alao bo considered, wh©n sorting the clothe©. 3* We ©orted the elothinn into four groups; whit© and color faot items, heavily soiled, wash and wear, and delicate and Uightly soiled* *• A 5* In the white and color fast group we put sheets, pillo'tf case©, light ©hirta, blou«e©, and towels. 6* Xn the haavily ©oiled rtroup we have dark soaks, work clothes, and SOJ»© children^© play clothea auch a© th© ba«k«tball unifom we ©ee in the picture* 7* Which group would we place the©© thing© in? D©licat©l Xn thia group we include ©ofse dresay dr«s»es as well a© nylon slip© and i^own©* 150

Skip a slide— 3. So»eti&ie« we want to i^ash curtains and bed5pr«ad8. Theae thini^s should i^i washed in wara water usually. You must be ©specially careful not to overload or crowd t »* waaher or they will not coaae clean, and they are large articles. 9. the ©econd steps we talked about were pre-treating the clothes b«for'urpos« detergent is usually the bi^st to buy. 22* How uuoh dotoru^out should you use? Again we must reneet- bar that thi£i ho]^i^4k<»r i© using a top loader. Ho«r lauoh deteri^ent should ©he u©e7 (I C for top loader) 23* ^^ directions artu usually on the box* 24. But, you may want to uae a little more if your clothes are very dirty. You moy alao want to use a little lea© if you do not itave a full load of clothes. 25* Xt i© ii^ortm^t to ijseaaure carefully using a plaatic or tin meauiurlng cup ao that you will be ©ure to use enoug^i detergent* 26. "^le next step is chooeing the proper action* When wash­ ing at the laundry you cannot control the action of the voobor* Sut, you can 27* Fut too mony thlnr,^ in one load whicti will k©ep the clothes from coMng clean* 23* the clothe© should be lightly placed or dropped into the washer—and not packed* 29* l^ew, autusiatic washer© are helpful in ©electing water temperature, type of action or agitation, and the amount of washing tlM© but most of u© don*t hav^ the newest i^achine and need to know how we can make the best use of the i%ftchine we uoo^, SO* Here again w^ see the type© of machine© { the top loader, and the front loader* 31* Thi© 1© a picture of the action or agitation of the top loader* Thi© laovement cause© the water to move through the clothe© and wash away the dirt. 32. ^hia i« the action of th© frwit loader* 33. We have alao montitmod taat the water and the deter^ient should be added before the clothe© are put in, if possible* 34* We are now ready to put tho ^lottmo in* Skip- is. Xf you have a wringer type washer, the ©aite rules and step© Should be followed. Xn using the wringer waaher, it is important to w»ah moat of the clothe© only 10 - 25 minutes. If they ©tay in the water much lon^-jer, the dirt in the water, will begin to KOt back into the clothe©. 37, Delicate fabrics should wash ofily ^ - 5 alnutes ©inc© they are not aa strong e© other clothes. 38* the final ©tep ia rln«in^ or washing away soiled *iash water and deteri^ent* 152

39» Rinae water stay be cool or wartu. 40* Warn or cool rinse water keep© cloth©© from gettinf; so wrinkled and siakes the« eaaier to iron* ©1* U©lng cool wat©r ©ave© the hot water for other waah loads* 3klp— Il2* When using a wringer washer, you »uat do the rinsinf; by ha^d* 43* Clothe© ©hould be loosened a© they co@e from the wrin^r* 4i|* Two rinee© in fr©«h water are needed for a good rinse when using the wrlnner washer* Another thing that will helfi gat clothe© cleaner when ueinr the wringer waaher i© if you uae the ©ai»e wa»h water for two load©, be ©ure to waah the cleaneat load firat* Xn oth©r word©, waah white thini$© first, and then if the water is not very ©oil©d you any add »ore detergent to it and put in another load* But, be ©ure to add «ore detergent the ©econd titte* Skip 2— Xf you follow the ©Ix siain ©tep© carefully, you ©hould if;et a ©leaner, whiter, lea© wrinkled, and briishter waah* Question©? Mow we have a clean, bri|0t wash and are ready to dry the clothes (a few p^ilnt© on u©e of drier)*