COPYRIGHTED MATERIAL 05 519806-Ch01.Qxp 8/11/086:44Pmpage6

05_519806-ch01.qxp 8/11/08 6:44 PM Page 5

The Best Full-Day 1 Tours

COPYRIGHTED MATERIAL 05_519806-ch01.qxp 8/11/086:44PMPage6

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e n 6 mh k str. ar b ann Monbijou- d ie um The Best Full-DaySt ToursL ch Ziegelstr. Pl ircksenstr r. . S D . K The BestofBerlin Albrechtstr.A . r K . A K l t l le ap . b ZirkusZ AmA .p x e str i s m a l dt r r m S rä n lu ar u tr o d rr.. f inh e k . s rrom.S ALEXANDER-ALEXANDER- er t e Reinhardtstr.Re c u jo id P P InformationS r h s Weiden-Weiden- pree i l r Washington-Washington- SpreeS b BodeBode . PLATZPLATZ e t - e HACKESCHERHACKESCHER str.str. s Dammer-Dammer- n u rg PlatzPlatz ien t BerlinerBerliner o MuseumMuseum e Gontardstr.G S arienr r MARKTMARKT o S u Post Office M lpl MMa . M NeueN P n b c r BrBr e o KarlplKa EnsembleEnsemble ta n lttk h r k i 7 d ü e f L Luisenstr.L s sts f b FRIEDRICH-FREIDRICH-FREIDRICH- t S S-Bahn tr FürstFürst u Pergamon-Pergamon- NationalgalerieNationalgalerie r. . a e i s m e r u STRASSESTRASSE r BismarckBismarck e m Fleming- fe e a S MuseumMuseum p n d . U U-Bahn S u r r U tr s e n Str.Str. d u S f Str. t a e a b NeNr o r. ff r iff e h SpandauerS St t . m h f Charlottenstr.C Sc e u s ie n u n - a p s l e h BauhofB m g u e h elt ta Georg tr. a MITTEMITTE au a . Sc Z e PaulPaul LLöbeöbe S Str.tr. hs sst Str.S tr 8 n thausstr.th . t r le ic Friedrichstr.F tkin S r. d a äädt Ze D l l a Z e aUniversit-U r t a r l . a Marshall-Marshall- R o CCl S RaR I d Lust-Lust- r i u e n t Ätsstr.Ä t e e t t h BrBr d i r KongresshalleKongresshalle uuer PlatzPlatz dderer e t v GartenGarten c MarxMarx E Engelsngels RotesRotes r s e S q ReichstagReichstag n e HumboldtHumboldt n . i t s r K c k r rr. eeq s t r. t b . RathausRathaus RepublikRepublik St s h n i t ForumForum s s e 1 the r e ro r UniversitätUniversität i r o r i DorotheenD Str. . s s t L chstr.c CarillonCarillon Str. . . e - t 10 o h ittel- K.K Liebknecht Str. n rros Mittel-M r Str. r. u . annstr. s t r G Scheidem UNTERUNTER D DENEN s t Schloss-Schloss- s Grunerstr.G hn Fost r u Jo er Dulles Allee LINDENLINDEN . ausstr.a S PlatzPlatz th S 9 en a p 4 Den Lind RatR r UnterUnter Den Linden e KLOSTER-KLOSTER- U BrandenburgBrandenburg eu STRASSESTRASSE 2 fer TIERGARTENTIERGARTEN GateGate 5 KomischeKomische O Operapera B reitesre Str GlinkasG r. a erst it lauer St ni l FRANZÖSISCHEFRANZÖSISCHE rd e r. 17 Ju i e s n W s m trasse De enstr. U t StrasseS Des 17 Juni r k STRSTR R Behrenstr.Beh Kurstr.K r.r. m olandufer a Str.Str. Brüderstr.B a Weg isischeche FranzFranz u r er s zös d BremerBrem Weg FranzösFran r ü n tr.t s d Wilhelmstr.W r EntlastunE FriedrichstFriedrichst t le . e BellevuealleeB n r r h e i . s ll t . l CathedralCathedral ü e r h t v l 3 r

a in OneDay t MühlendammM ue TiergartenTiergarten e . F s s a l r. isi Otto-nagelOtto-nagel t rst s lle t m Jägerstr.Jäge 6 HAUSVOGTEIPLHAUSVOGTEIPL cherinselc e u r U h MÄRK.MÄRK. e s HausHaus n t J e eerusalemer ggsstr. b r r KurK i MUSEUMMUSEUM . r NieN s Ebertstr.E u n str. u ie r s s Taubenstr.Tauben derwd sstr.t e s U 1 t e r. l r Markgrstr.M I Reichstag a r . n . w r l aallst t . s a e r lls s Insel-Insel- lst e MOHRENSTRASSEMOHRENSTRASSE str. r m tr.r n al ls n k 2 Brandenburg Gate U Mohrenstr.Mohre . e N.N Rossstr.Wallstr.W t g e BrBr sser Weg str. d . r. Gro ne tr. r r u U R b s s en ss a o o SStr. Lennestr.L KollonadeK Vossstr.V r o k 3 enstr. t t a AnA Der on r t s Holocaust Memorial o Kronenstr.Kr r J . . r e s n e r . eu t l SPITTELMARKTSPITTELMARKT s N ns l U Gertraudenstr.G te o STADTMITTESTADTMITTE t ar D r. 4 rg n tr. ie e er S Unter den Linden Tiergartenstr.T a pzig Friedrichstr.F LeipzigerLei Str. r d S r e . e i yd r 5 PhilharmoniePhilharmonie e elst st Café LebensartKunstgew-Kunstgew- d Krausenstr.Krausenstr. r. b tr. Wilhelmstr.W r StaS o er S i k ipzig c t a MuseumMuseum LeipzigerLe Str. i KommandantenK Str.a J S l Post-Post- h o 6 h m llschreibell e Jakobstr. Gendarmenmarkt s m s t Kammer-Kammer- e a l t c l MuseumMuseum . n AltA

r tr Markgrafenstr.M E

E s h . m tzen d . ü a

r Schützenstr.Sch n r i MusikaalMusikaal i . U

t r POTSDAMERPOTSDAMER t e c Gadenkstättetätte7 c t s a e

s s n i

h Pergamon Museum h r t r S b ChC g Sigismundstr.S PLATZPLATZ r k t e i h e . . r r g rstr . Deutscher Widerstandderstand i g e sm m h imm r o Zimmerstr.Z D e u a r nd S arlottena 8 r r b s d t a Berliner Dom t r e r. Staats-Staats- n s r t tr. f n . ers l s e m e s o Zimmerstr.Zim o e Potsdamerstr.P s d t n f BibliothekBibliothek e rstr. t 0 1/4 mi e f r e NewNew chn t OranieO 9 . m rkir s r r.. Nikolaiviertel . ede e a n t u Niederkirchnerstr.Ni S r t ni e t R a n r e d e a NationalNational t MartinMartin hsstrtr. nstrn y t s n KocKoc . s r He ic str.s tr Waldeck-Waldeck- . h Stauffenbergstr.S k n . S .D 10p s t V ie GalleryGallery n Gropius-Gropius- U r t Zumtsc Nussbaum i t KOCHSTRASSEKOCHSTRASSE . 0 0.25 km r hufer L r. ParkPark . BauBau h c . i r r r fe Sc . tr.t u h r . n ö B t s . ow n Sch Rei er r tr i z e ö ch S n t n e t b ne p b S ü e b ie ur S tr. e L rg e t g S H er r r s er er Ufe g c S lt d e h tr. a r h n u n i U f A L f e e r r r r e . e r u t n e a S s h r. r t s t e e S ö er m K D g a er d b s e t n o hö P Sc 05_519806-ch01.qxp 8/11/08 6:44 PM Page 7

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t P f The Best of Berlin

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r u

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u J h e

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c r d a t

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n n r his whirlwind tour takes in Berlin’s blockbusters from the e

a a

k e

a r l . n b

r u h

t t e c x i

e o r

i d

s e

l n i

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l R e e e .

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s N

K A n D Reichstag’s crystalline bubble, rising high above the city, to a . I

r l

t T -

s e

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e g E

. n classic stroll down Unter den Linden boulevard. Then it’s over to the r s

- t u a Z

D r E

s u . R

T G

r n S . N

d .

E a t r

r r A S t

t T S A

a o

H s

t s . A t l Nikolaiviertel to tread the cobbles and see the sun plop daintily into S

X r s d P n l t t

s R

E r u s O

o a s . M

T L a

L a s u

G O s

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S o U

h K A e a

t R

R t E the River Spree, rounding out with a cool Berliner Kindl in Zum Nuss-

a . m h .

S r R N o t Ä e t

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a R

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M m

. R T o

M START: r m l - baum. Wunderbar. S-Bahn Unter den Linden.

l k

t a e

T d s s J e

. n n

I i n r e

s .

t e r B t l

r e S e l

t h n

r h A s r

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F R e - r d

. u r i e

n r A h . k

a t e R D r c

g p s

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m E S s r l k ★★★

L s .

p a e u 1 l r r Reichstag. Head to the

u t T S E E

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h S

. d t r

S x

o .

. T R

r t P

r a a I y

r s n

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A s Reichstag (Germany’s Parliament) for s

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P e

K e

. e n t W

r t S . d S

e i e M

i t e ü n d

m r M S r r

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B u

r B

a a knockout view over the city as it t d e

H P r

- t

h n

e s

a c

e a

u z e s e

g G

n m l

N o . wakes up. A lift rises to architect Nor- l k a r

l t m

b h s r. P n L .

e o .

c i r t

r r

- P L K t t

o u s

. S I l man Foster’s striking glass cupola,

d . l s

i s K

t s E r

ä K a n

T a r e w ie p G r

l. N d n which revamped Berlin’s architec- . r e O r n -

K t - d a e r V t e u S r. ie

t t S

s O W s o r

r u j K N tural landscape in 1999. There’s noth-

U i

a .

b r A L

n t tr. P tr.

. s G

n n

m H

o r

. e

t o r d

u . ing like the moment you step inside n

t i

s r m L

M n

a r. t r s r S

eme S l e m

rusa

g e e

u s

e the kaleidoscopic shell, where a mir-

r u r t

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d e e e

l M

. ä

a r d s

P g

f a t

. r

l m r i i

t i

s h r

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z u B K rored funnel creates an optical illu- s

z o

Z o

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S n

i b M

u r e e

n tr. a

n n s e

a fen i a

o r

v g

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L M i

B sion; it’s like being trapped inside a k

t r

M F

e u

t t

. n i a

r r.

st s e gr r

t H Mark

U . C

n Z

S r F E

giant glass spider’s web. The 360° e

a H r. t

z s

S en r

e t

rlo t

C ha

it- C

rs a

ive

e l S U ü

h panorama of Berlin from the platform C

. S r

. tsst h

p Ä . r

c Ö r

S E

S t

Z s

l s

- r.

t - is ideal for getting your bearings. s .

n N

te s

r t

rlo S

e n a r

Ch . -

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R e e A

g str.

t ch z

T ri s

e d n n T

R Frie

R e n

r S

T i n

m h

F S

d e @

I 45 min.; best before 10am. Platz

Z - c a

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d S

m r

r M

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a i a

C K .

str t

h C

c I i L

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e der Republik 1. 030-22-73-21-52. r

F D s

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l n A n G A l m

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R e .

n S

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T D Admission free. Daily 8am–10pm. s t

t e

m i e m h

m i

A S i l

r s s

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o The Doric columns of the Brandenburg

r r

s F

u e M u

k P

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s t r e i e

Z tr. M

s a

c a n S-Bahn: Unter den Linden.

n link g B

G M T

s ä Gate soar above Platz des 18 März.

E . str U

h i

r irc K J

eustädt . e N r

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r S

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r. . s ★★★

m i r

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s a 2 In

K e Brandenburg Gate.

t . t

t i u

t h

h il e r

c .

r t s

m W

e S t

a l

r r p

b a

l t a s

A . B

o he did. Just a few paces from the

c r

d s

r r

h i

r r 1987, Ronald Reagan stood at this

t t E

e M t n

n e

. e

s S

n r

A s u

n S

r n

s h

a Reichstag, the Doric columns of the s

n A

c i

t spot and cried: “Mr Gorbachev,

. o

b r

r t

a R

s r i

d e

f m D

r a l r T

i B n

e A k

m lh

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h W e Brandenburg Gate stop you dead in M d

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n h open this gate! Mr Gorbachev, tear

D o N l

l l N

h Ko d

n E

E p i c

N e

R .

i e S r D

. r your tracks. Crane your neck to E

. t

H r a

R r down this wall!” And two years later,

N t R t S D

s K O

r. r

t E n s S

sen .

ui N L

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M r l r

a t t glimpse Victoria, goddess of victory, g

l S L

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r e u

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r a A close-up view of Sir Norman Foster’s s

s charging forth on her two-wheeled

. n t s B

R g

r e

m r S

ö r D

e u h

m s . r t s t

c r e Z b glass cupola at Reichstag. M

a E L b

d M S chariot, Quadriga. Conquering

er T

u A n

a n .

b r

f t

f g r

i S

h a

c L e a g

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s n r .

u e e

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b K

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c . l r e

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e r fancy to this feisty beauty in 1804

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c d r e a R

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K n h L n m and whisked her off to the Louvre in

r a

k c

l a

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B s

t e b a k e i

i o Paris; she now stands triumphant

P c u z p t P r n t

. h s p r a r o r

a c

t e

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S above Pariser Platz (Paris Square). r. e U m R

P t F

s E s r . ichhorn

i R

r e

t a

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- Nip back after dark to see the city

e e l tr. n

s i

s s

h b g e n

un t t t

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r ast e l r o

t t a i

n o

P n

l E lights soften the edges of this neo- s a

l a n

l e ö

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t g

k r n e r u

e h

t l b

f S

l e l

a c

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a l i

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n @ 20 min. Pariser

B classical landmark.

u C

q e

M e

s f

s t f

e 1 o

r l

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r G

e .

r r

i a

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s t Platz 1. S-Bahn: Unter den Linden.

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S a e

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e a e r

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S d

D i r

W e g

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s l

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s N

m a o

n 3 A i s Holocaust Memorial. s K P

M u G

n s

m o a

i N

e s

t r e u

r g

e M

z t

r i

g .

t r K

g l

S e t

s S B This life-sized jigsaw puzzle pieces

n g

N r a

u e

i e n

l l b n

l e

h f D f o

P E u

a a s t r S K e

a together Berlin’s troubled past. T

e u r

r. t r

t v e W

S s R

f e

f r l

o l

e Peter Eisenman, born in New Jersey u F e A

g r

r B h n

u c e

b h s g

e d t r in 1932, completed the walkable o

n R

J e e n

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b L E

a p e t I h n monument to commemorate the e s ic t T r ö

t e h e g R ä c murdered Jews of Europe in 2005. d

e t S

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. r n r r n

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. V 05_519806-ch01.qxp 8/11/08 6:44 PM Page 8

8 Full-Day Tours Full-Day A field of grey stelae at Peter Eisenman’s labyrinthine Holocaust Memorial.

Enter the concrete labyrinth at any 6 ★★ Gendarmenmarkt. Take point and you soon feel lost: row a right off Unter den Linden onto The Best upon row of wavy stelae (upright Berlin’s grandest square and try to stone slabs) appear to ripple off to figure out what’s unusual. Yep, infinity. It is chilling yet quite beauti- you’re seeing double. Gendarmen- ful in its austerity. Be sure to visit markt is dwarfed by the baroque the Ort der Information (Infor- Deutscher Dom and Französischer mation Center), particularly room Dom, two churches that are the spit- 3 that reveals the identity of many ting image of each other. Both were Holocaust victims. @ 30 min. Cora- built in 1705. At the center of the Berliner-Strasse 1. y 030-26-39-43- square, German poet Friedrich 36. www.holocaust-mahnmal.de. Schiller (1759–1805) rises proudly in Admission free; donations welcome. front of the columned Konzerthaus. S-Bahn: Unter den Linden. The square is fringed by cafés and 4 ★★★ = Unter den Lin- glorious Art Nouveau townhouses (number 38 is a fine example). When den. Watch daily life unfold as you the evening sun hits the cobbled saunter down this sublime boule- streets it’s as if they are, quite liter- vard. It’s easy to fall for this grand ally, paved with gold. @ 45 min. avenue flanked by linden trees, Gendarmenmarkt. U-Bahn: Franzö- which Germans nickname Bäume sische Strasse. der Liebe (trees of love) because of their heart-shaped leaves. The clip- Airbrush paintings grace the walls at clop of horses’ hooves recalls the Café Lebensart. days when it was a bridle path for Prussian kings. Look out for the marble façade of the Russian Embassy, the vine-clad courtyard of the Staatsbibliothek zu Berlin (Berlin State Library), and Humboldt Univer- sity, where Einstein taught. @ 45 min. S-Bahn: Unter den Linden.

5 ★ Café Lebensart. Pause at this gallery-style café near the Brandenburg Gate for moist poppy sponge and hot chocolate on the terrace. An airbrush painting of 1920s cabaret diva Valeska Gert graces the pepper-red walls. Unter den Linden 69. y 030-44-72-19-30. $. 05_519806-ch01.qxp 8/11/08 6:44 PM Page 9

9 The Best of Berlin 7 ★★★ Pergamon Museum. This cavernous treasure-trove pres- ents a romp through Ancient Greece, Rome, and Babylon. Though its scale is overwhelming, the star exhibits cluster in one area. You start in the Antiquities Collection, harboring the original-sized, recon- structed Pergamon Altar, which cat- in One Day apults you back to 160 BC Greece with its frieze of burly gods doing battle with the Titans. Steep marble steps lead to the Altar Court, where sacrificial rituals took place in the 2nd century BC. If you can tear yourself away from Athens, pop next door to Babylon to marvel at a gate fit for an Assyrian goddess— her name is Ishtar. A close-up of the The Hohenzollern coat of arms in the glazed tiles reveals prancing uni- crypt of the Berliner Dom. corns and a mythical creature, the symbol of Babylonian god Marduk, 9 ★★ = Nikolaiviertel. Edg- with a snake’s head, lion’s legs, and ing south, the laid-back Nikolaiviertel scorpion’s tail. Step back to appreci- quarter is a great escape from the ate the gate’s magnitude. Time per- central bustle. Its cobbled lanes and mitting, venture upstairs for some hidden courtyards time-warp you 1 elaborate oriental carpets. @ 1 ⁄2 hr. back to the Middle Ages. Allow at Am Kupfergraben 5. y 030-20-90- least an hour to explore its cafés and 55-77. www.smb.spk-berlin.de. boutiques. For unique teas, visit € € Admission 8 adults, 4 students, Teeladen (p 92); young kids won’t free for children under 16. Daily want to miss the cuddly critters and 10am–6pm, Thurs until 10pm. dolls in Die Puppenstube (p 94). U-Bahn: Friedrichstrasse. Note the enamel signs above many 8 ★★★ Berliner Dom. This neo- shops: a pipe for the tobacconist, a Renaissance cathedral built in 1895 pretzel for the baker. Dominating the grabs your attention; its voluptuous square is the twin-spired, 13th-cen- cupolas contrast with the needle-thin tury Nikolaikirche (p 157, bullet 2); Fernsehsturm (Television Tower) in come in late afternoon to see its the background. Its centerpiece is a bricks blush. @ 1 hr. U-Bahn: 70m dome. Each of its intricate Alexanderplatz. mosaics depicting Biblical scenes is inlaid with 500,000 stones in myriad 0 ★★ Zum Nussbaum. Once colors. For a different perspective, the sun starts dropping, kick back climb 267 steps to the upper gallery. with a beer on the terrace at one The view stretches across Museum- of Berlin’s oldest watering holes. sinsel to the Reichstag and flame-red Right opposite Nikolaikirche, this Rotes Rathaus (Red Town Hall). @ 45 y bar oozes musty charm in rooms min. Am Lustgarten 1. 030-20-26- filled with the hum of chatter and 91-36. Admission 5€ adults, 3€ stu- whiffs of Berliner Eisbein (pork dents, free for children under 16. knuckles). Am Nussbaum 3. Mon–Sat 9am–8pm, Sun 12pm–8pm. y 030-242-30-95. $. U-Bahn: Friedrichstrasse. 05_519806-ch01.qxp 8/11/086:44PMPage10 W i ls n a Ze c S H B h . d r k c r e o r. - e t t 10 e h S r n e s r e ic s r W w s l- s d k B S e ö en i m i g i r r r S a s g k e t e tr. h . n S e e r c l c t r s s Ther Best Full-Day Tourst n . h S t a r r g k st r z h c t c S . r. . e ire B e S r T . m r The BestofBerlin To . NovalisN RosenthalerR r S RathenowerR Str. tr.tr o tr . s o .

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r HamburgerHamburger a n nstr. G r Linienstr.Linie t t e v s t Fritz- d Kl.K Hamburger

Bu s Fritz-h li a l. e l ge 0 s 1/4 mi BanhofBanhof a nhagenstr. e l r. H Koppen-Koppen- Fritz- v i t Str.SStr. n e Schloss-n Schloss-Schloss- 6 InvalidensIn FriedhofFriedhof s S a m Dreysestr. Dreysestr.Dreysestr. or m t t Walker S

d str.s h WalkerW S o TorT Str. b PlatzPlatz r o Sandkrug- . Sandkrug-Sandkrug- t Str.S a n Str. . PritzP w LehrterL l u Park ParkPark P r t Gipsstr.G r a e Hamburger R. Koch . r r G l a g i r . t e Br H p e 0 0.25 km l BrBr an . e r.r Hamburger Str. i h tr . s

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B Bandelstr. Bandelstr. r . S r r t Str.omstr. SStr.omstr. o s r Banhof r ve he st . . t e C z t r r t s n st r. Humboldt-Humboldt- S ie t H r s S LesserL e r Phhiilipppp n . UryUUry WegWeg L Linienstr.Li gu r t t e r ORANIEN-ORANIEN- u a WEINMEISTER-WEINMEISTER- S e . r s r u Auguststr.A Sophienstr.S f r ORANIEN-ORANIEN- o . tz s Str. hafenhafen U m r. y isi t p urmst li s S F OranienburgerO Str. WEINMEISTER-STRASSESTRASSE Turmstr.T s d u ORANIEN-BURGERBURGER TTOROR ra hi e t riedr SStr. BURGERBURGER r n ORANIEN- b e y W r eenstr. i S n i e U e r . S n STRASSE BURGER TOR e e u s InformationKl Tiergarten Seydlitzstr.S n b U . DeutschesDeutsches u BURGERSTRASSESTRASSE tr r e d r . t d r KlKl TiergarteTiergarten HôpitalHôpital s g B S 5 g e g t rrichstr. r STRASSE TURMSTRASSETURMSTRASSE ix . n TheaterTheater . LEHRTERLEHRTER o r . r e D t iJohannisstr. r

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h l s r h Schützenstr. d Rauch-Rau r l Gedenkstätte n 1 10 ch h e a A CorneliusC Str.- Bibliotheko U Siegessäule GadenkstätteGadenkstätte Staats-Staats- s n Berlin Zoo o e Str.Str. e MuseumMuseum tent l o e r m BerlinBerlin ZooZoo r Deutscher Widerstandf t n K f

n n a LützowuferL ü ö rr. trstr.r. ü e f b SiS errstr.s t DeutscherDeutscher WWiderstandiderstand igismundstr.g BibliothekBibliothek d . Zmimme t e i immem z l s u is s s Z o iu S s m t 11 r t t w s r a un r. Schloss Bellevue . r otsdamero t u S s t d ers f st . P Zimmerstr.Zimm e t t r r r StauffenbergsS . . r Kaiser- tr. . tr.. Re New chstr. O S t S ic . Ko ra er yd hp Rei r n Wilhelm st .He ie National chp t ien pe .D tsch iet s st da V ufer sc k r. u Gallery h n Gedächtnisk B u i fe L r

. r t S r e m a d s t o P 05_519806-ch01.qxp 8/11/08 6:44 PM Page 11

. s 11

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e s n your second day, make a date with Rembrandt first thing,

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T a l m e

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i Sp M S and then discover the heart of 21st-century Berlin in Potsdamer

n .

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c around the Scheunenviertel, pausing to ogle the simply Moorish Neue

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e a Church (1437–39). At the gallery’s R

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t s ping, and people-watching. Art

e P . t redbrick Kollhoff (boasting Europe’s

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o The biggest head-turner, though, is n n i

K n S l u r i G e e e E T ü

b e T r .

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a e unique gifts from handmade soaps

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A m theaters such as Chamäleon cabaret

l u divided (before 1989), check out the

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s (p 135). 1 hr. Hackesche Höfe.

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r graffitied fragments of the Berlin Wall

R s

s e d o

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H S-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz. Hackescher Markt.

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B 05_519806-ch01.qxp 8/11/08 6:44 PM Page 12

4 ★ Anatre. Grab an espresso and snack at this café, with a patio facing the prettiest courtyard in Hackesche Höfe. The ciabatta sand- wiches and antipasti are delicious. Hof I. y 030-28-38-99-15. $. Full-Day Tours Full-Day

5 ★★★ Neue Synagoge. This neo-Byzantine synagoge, originally built in 1866, was inspired by Andalu- The Best sia’s Alhambra Palace. Bombed in World War II, it emerged like a Henry Moore’s Big Butterfly sculpture in phoenix from the ashes in 1995. Its front of the Haus der Kulturen der Welt. trio of bulbous domes feature intricate gold ribbing and appear to glow Lichtenstein. Keep an eye out for in the dusk light. The Star of David is Warhol’s silk-screen of smirking a reminder that the now hip Sche- Chairman Mao (1975), Joseph unenviertel neighborhood was tradi- Beuys’ classic Tram Stop (1976), and tionally Berlin’s Jewish quarter. Today Damien Hirst’s pharmaceutical it’s on the up, with a growing crop of frenzy The Void (2,000), exhibiting kooky bars and boutiques. @ 20 min. hundreds of pills in kaleidoscopic Oranienburger Strasse 28–30. y 030- shades of color. @ 1 hr. Invaliden- 88-02-84-51. S-Bahn: Oranienburger strasse 50–51. y 030-39-78-34-11. Strasse. www.hamburgerbahnhof.de. Admis- sion 5€ adults, free for children ★★ 6 Hamburger Bahnhof. under 16. Tues–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat With its twin clock towers, graceful 11am–8pm, Sun 11am–6pm. S-Bahn: arches, and echoing halls, there’s no Hauptbahnhof. hiding the fact that this gallery was ★★ once a train station. Hamburger 7 Haus der Kulturen der Bahnhof now makes tracks with its Welt. Whether or not you agree peerless collection of contemporary with locals that this contemporary art, including works by 20th-century arts center resembles a schwangere Pop Art stars Andy Warhol and Roy Auster (pregnant oyster), there’s certainly something shell-like about See the curvaceous domes of the Neue it. It’s best surveyed from the front, Synagoge blush at dusk. where the Spiegelteich pond mirrors the edifice; the rippled reflection gives you the sense of being under- water. Have your camera handy for the shimmering centerpiece—Brit Henry Moore’s bronze sculpture, Big Butterfly (1984). @ 30 min. John- Foster-Dulles-Allee 10. S-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof. 8 ★★ = Carillon. The oyster’s lesser-known neighbor is this 42m carillon (free-standing bell tower) of smooth black granite, whose soaring lines force your gaze up. Containing 68 bells, the glockenspiel (a chiming 05_519806-ch01.qxp 8/11/08 6:44 PM Page 13

13 The Best of Berlin On the Buses

Save your spending money with a self-guided city tour on public double-decker bus route 100, running every seven minutes between Zoologische Garten and Alexanderplatz. For the price of a single ticket (2.10€ adults, 1.40€ children under 13), you can take in many of Berlin’s most iconic sights including Tiergarten’s Siegessäule in Two Days (p 13), Bundespräsidialamt (p 38), and Schloss Bellevue (p 13). Keep an eye out for landmarks such as the Reichstag (p 7), Brandenburg Gate (p 7), and Fernsehturm (p 49) as you trundle through Mitte district. Grab a seat at the front of the upper deck for the best views. For more ticket information on Berlin’s buses, see p 168.

percussion instrument) is the way. Its most eye-catching feature is world’s fourth largest. Continue the angelic Victoria, the same figure your stroll through crowning the Brandenburg Gate the adjacent (p 7), whose golden wings frame sculpture gar- the sky and give the impression den. This serene that she’s about to park is a great take flight. Berliners approach to the nickname her Golden Reichstag (p 7, Else because she shines bullet 1), as the open gold in the sunlight. The surroundings amplify its memorial commemorates vic- dimensions. @ 15 min. tory in the 1864 Prussian– Concerts May–Sep Sun 3pm. Danish war, with reliefs depicting y 030-851-28-28. Free scenes of this battle and two public access. S-Bahn: others: the 19th-century Hauptbahnhof. Franco-Prussian and Aus- tro-Prussian wars. Puff Victoria stands proud atop up 285 steps to the plat- Siegessäule - Berliners call her form for far-reaching views over Golden Else. Berlin. @ 30 min. Grosser Stern 1. y 030-391-29-61. Admission 2.20€ € 9 ★★ Zollpackhof. Cold beer, a adults, 1.50 students, free for chestnut-shaded garden, and some children under 6. Apr–Oct Mon–Fri of the finest views of Haus der Kul- 9:30am–6:30pm, Sat–Sun 9:30am– turen der Welt this side of the Spree 7pm; Nov–Mar Mon–Fri 10am-5pm. keep locals and tourists coming back S-Bahn: Bellevue. to this beer garden. Elizabeth-Abegg- ! ★★ = Schloss Bellevue. Strasse 1. y 030-33-09-97-20. $. Try a gentle amble to Schloss Belle- vue. Manicured lawns guide the 0 ★★★ = Siegessäule. The eye to this Prussian palace built in 1786, where the German and EU Siegessäule (Victory Column) pops @ up like a gigantic telescope, and hits flags flutter. 30 min. Spreeweg. you in a wow-I’m-in-Berlin kind of S-Bahn: Bellevue. 05_519806-ch01.qxp 8/11/086:44PMPage14 . tr s k S c g a o e G l e t z s w l h . i

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15 - The Best of Berlin o

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i L 05_519806-ch01.qxp 8/11/08 6:44 PM Page 16

16 Chip off the Old Bloc

From 1961 to 1989, the 155km Berlin Wall was a potent symbol of the Cold War, an impenetrable physical and psychological barrier between East and West Germany. On November 9, 1989, the Com- Full-Day Tours Full-Day munist East German government announced the opening of the border to West Berlin. Thousands of jubilant Berliners flocked to the Wall and began chipping away at it with hammers, eager to keep a chunk of history; they were nicknamed Mauerspechte (wall wood- The Best peckers). Today, wherever you go in Berlin you encounter souvenir shops where you can purchase your own bit of Wall to treasure or send home on a postcard for as little as 2€. If you’ve been wonder- ing where the Wall went when it crumbled, now you know. Genuine? Maybe. Lucrative? Most definitely.

5 ★★★ Jewish Museum. This Upstairs traces German-Jewish life zinc-clad building, brainchild of Polish- from the Middle Ages to the present. 1 American architect Daniel Libeskind, @ 1 ⁄2 hr. Lindenstrasse 9–14. y 030- resembles a bolt of lightning. Zigzag- 259-93-300. www.juedisches-museum- ging tunnels bring you to the Axis of berlin.de. Admission 5€ adults, 2.50€ Holocaust, where the spotlight is on students, free for children under 6. individuals; particularly moving is the Mon 10am–10pm, Tues–Sun 10am– toy monkey of a boy whose parents 8pm. U-Bahn: Hallesches Tor. were murdered at Auschwitz. It’s 6 ★★ Riehmers Hofgarten. hard, too, not to feel a lump in your Pass through a wrought-iron gate throat when the iron door closes, into this Art Nouveau courtyard, trapping you inside the Holocaust an oasis of calm in the heart of Tower. Other poignant creations Kreuzberg. I love to amble through include Menashe Kadishman’s the chestnut-shaded square to gaze Shalechet (Fallen Leaves), a triangular upon townhouses draped in vines, void filled with 10,000 screaming iron so perfect they resemble overgrown faces that clank as you cross them. dolls houses. It’s particularly magical as night falls, when lanterns caress Menashe Kadishman’s Shalechet (Fallen Leaves) at the Jewish Museum. the cobblestoned courtyard with subtle light. @ 30 min. Yorkstrasse, Hagelberger, and Grossbeeren- strasse. U-Bahn: Mehringdamm.

7 = ★★★ Curry 36. The hum- ble Currywurst (curried sausage) is king at this sidewalk joint marked with a red sign. Chow down on your classic Berlin dish with fries or cab- bage salad. Be prepared to queue with hungry locals. Mehringdamm 36. No phone. $.