4th Annual WOMEN’S DRIVES COLE HAAN/14 GOOD TO GROW/2 AwardsCFDA Preview FashionInside: WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’MONDAY Daily Newspaper • June 2, 2003 Vol. 185, No. 110 $2.00 Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear Galliano’s New Digs PARIS — “The clothes have waited to be shown like this for a long time,” John Galliano said of his new, 1,700-square-foot store, which opened here last week and is his first in the world. Galliano describes the space as “high tech romance” for its completely see-through design, plasma screens and silver mannequins. For more on the store and the designer, see page 6. PHOTO BY PHOTO STEPHANEBY FEUGERE 2 Luxe Retailers Get Pragmatic WWDMONDAY Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear By David Moin Chanel or Dolce & Gabbana’s the rate of consumer spending growing D&G line. says slow down. Private compa- NEWYORK — Beyond the chic An expansion-minded Calvin nies such as Chanel and Ferra- GENERAL limestone facades and Italian Klein, with new owner Phillips- gamo are already taking cautious FASHION: Resort is all about showing a little — or a lot — of leg, as

ONDAY, JUNE 2, 2003 ONDAY, marble selling floors, difficult Van Heusen, is pushing his jeans retail routes. Yet any retailing 4 designers show off gams with colorful dresses and cool skirts. M

, decisions are being made in the collection. He’s scouting sites for a strategy must adapt in an age of Everything about John Galliano’s first store, located in Paris, is generating D back offices of designer retail Calvin Klein Jeans store in Paris economic uncertainty. 6 buzz, even the bathroom and its embroidered wall panels. W operations. and opening others this summer “It’s called full-court press W Call it a new restraint. Call it and fall in Hong Kong and Seville time,” said Arie Kopelman, pres- With the weak economy and luxury sales sagging, designer retailing has pragmatism. For many upscale and Marbella, Spain, following the ident of Chanel Inc. 2 become a tougher proposition. Here’s how brands are adapting. brands that waged store expan- recent openings in Amsterdam, For some designer stores, time Prada has quietly put its 22,500-square-foot retail property at 185 Post sions in the Nineties, both Moscow, Sydney, Melbourne and has expired. Tommy Hilfiger re- 16 Street, a block from Union Square in San Francisco, on the market. American and European, it’s Chongquing in China. cently decided to close 38 spe- time to cut the losses and rein in With the world’s luxury sales cialty stores, and earlier closed EYE: Little sisters get into the act; partying around town with Alexander the real estate, press for higher slipping, designer brands are its glitzy flagships in London and 20 McQueen and Calvin Klein, and searching for baubles at Christie’s. productivities, market locally — reaching for business outside the on Rodeo Drive. The Beverly New Waves, the Council of Fashion Designers of America’s 4th Annual and less so to the slumping core ready-to-wear collections Hills site got swooped up by Fashion Awards preview, is included in this issue. tourist trade — and stock up on that have long been their founda- Brooks Bros. about a month ago. items and categories that appeal tions. Product diversification and However, at Polo/Ralph Lauren, Classified Advertisements ...... 18-19 to wider demographics. Most new ideas are critical. So is retail “We are bullish over the long term To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is often, those wider demographics expansion, particularly for public on vertical retail,” said Roger [email protected], using the individual's name. spell accessories, shoes and companies pushed by Wall Farah, president and chief oper- SUBSCRIPTION RATES U.S. and possessions, Retailer, daily one year, $99; Manufacturer, daily one year, $135. lower-priced, sportier items like Street’s lust for growth, like ating officer. He acknowledged All others U.S., daily one year $195. Canada/Mexico, daily one year, $295. All other foreign (Air Speed), daily one year $595. Polo’s Blue Label bridge line, Polo/Ralph Lauren and LVMH- that, “in the short run, the market Please allow 6-8 weeks for service to start. Individual subscription information/Single Copy Sales : (800) 289-0273; outside U.S. (818) 487-4526; new group subscription information 212-630-4196 Karl Lagerfeld’s ski parkas for owned Donna Karan, even when Continued on page 10 Postmaster: Send address changes to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. WWD (ISSN #0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue every month except July, and two additional issues in April and August, by Fairchild Publications, Inc. a subsidiary of Advance Publications Inc., 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001-8191. WWD is a registered trademark of Fairchild Publications Inc.© 2003 by Fairchild Publications Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications Inc. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying or recording, or by any information storage or retrieval system, except as may be expressly permitted in writing by the copyright owner. Editorial Reprints: (212) 221-9595 D&G Scores $1.1M at Shows Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and other offices. Mailed under Publications Mail Sales Agreement No. 517054. Canada Post Returns to: P.O.Box 1632, Windsor, ON N9A 7C9 GST # 88654-9096-RM 0001 Canada Publications Agreement # 40032712 This type of special attention in the form of seat- Printed in the U.S.A. By Rosemary Feitelberg All signed articles published in the paper represent solely the individual opinion of the writer and not those of ed fashion shows is something Dolce & Gabbana WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY. NEWYORK — Instead of staging a typical trunk plans to carry out in all its freestanding stores. For Web site access, log on and subscribe to www.WWD.com. show, Dolce & Gabbana flew in some one-of-a-kind Thus far, it has worked well to get women to make pieces and runway looks for some “serious preorders,” fashion shows at its Madison Forte said. MONDAY: 2003 CFDA Fashion Awards, New York Avenue and Los Angeles stores “Usually at this time of year, New York women’s resort apparel market (through last month. we preview new arrivals. But June 13). The unusual approach ap- this year, we felt we needed to parently worked, because the do a more specialized atmos- WEDNESDAY: Neiman Marcus Group reports third- collection pulled in a com- phere,” she said. “Many women quarter earnings. bined $1.1 million in sales. are used to looking at clothes Women are more interested on a rack, and they don’t come THURSDAY: Tommy Hilfiger Corp. reports fourth- in learning about shapes and to Italy for our show.” quarter earnings. fabrics, said Gabriella Forte, And sometimes the ones Retailers report sales results for May. the company’s U.S. president, who do are put off by the run- noting that’s not something way looks. “We wanted to show FRIDAY: The Labor Department releases the employ- that always resonates while ri- them the collection is very ment report for May. fling through a trunk show. wearable and can be mixed Wal-Mart Stores annual meeting, Fayetteville, Ark. How else would attendees and matched in many ways,” Chicago Apparel Center’s fall II market (through know the “piece of Pop Art was Forte said. “We’re always cater- June 9). actually a fake Mongolian jack- ing to the customer.” Los Angeles fall II market week at the California et with fur trim and a floral lin- As soon as the show closed, Market Center and The New Mart (through June 10). ing, and is ideal for anyone guests garnered special atten- The Annex by Designers & Agents trade show, Los with a schizophrenic attitude tion from sales associates who Angeles (through June 9). toward art and fashion?” had been waiting in the wings. Chibidue and Chibimart jewelry and accessories Stefano Galli, worldwide Even with that extra push, a show, Milan (through June 9). fashion coordinator who flew Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana few attendees left with only in from Italy for the event, said, “What you’re see- the goody bag from Dylan’s Candy Bar. COMING THISSATURDAY: WEEK Vicenzo Oro 2 jewelry show, Vicenzo, Italy ing now is not falling apart. It’s the evolution of the When one shopper’s interest was piqued by an (through June 12). bomber jacket,” referring to a leather number with outfit, a saleswoman said, “That’s coming. But you sleeves and a hem that can be zipped off. can’t have it now.” In Brief WTO Tariff-Dropping Plan Gains Little Support ● SANTO RESPONDS: Italian financial magazine Il Mondo has spurred Santo Versace, president of Gianni Versace SpA, to write the publication threatening legal action. That letter was backed up By John Zarocostas tariffs, as well as the elimination was not ambitious enough.” by one from the company’s auditors. An article, published Friday, of other trade barriers, senior Supachai Panitchpakdi, WTO stated that Versace’s auditors will not approve its business plan and GENEVA — The proposal to fur- trade diplomats said. director general, expressed dis- are worried the company’s results have stalled. It also said the ther liberalize global trade by Saturday had been set as a appointment that governments three auditors were concerned that Versace’s general director post dropping tariffs on industrial deadline for developing a frame- had not been able to meet the remained vacant after Giovanni Galbiati left in March, and they be- goods met with little support, work for discussing the issue. Saturday timetable. lieved the company would not be able to pay back a 100 million with negotiators at the World The Swiss chairman of indus- Nevertheless, he contended euro bond to Morgan Stanley by the July 2004 deadline. In re- Trade Organization failing to trial market-access negotiations, “good progress” had been made sponse, Santo Versace wrote to the director of Il Mondo saying the meet a self-imposed deadline to Ambassador Pierre-Louis Girard, and stressed, “we should not be article was totally false, and that he reserved the right to pursue agree on a package of terms that told reporters that, in a recent downcast…agreeing on the legal action. The auditors’ letter also stated that the information in would govern the phaseout of WTO discussion on the matter, modalities is perhaps the most Il Mondo was untrue, and that they hadn’t finished compiling the more than 50 countries took the difficult part of the negotiations.” company’s results. Versace said it hadn’t had a response from Il floor and expressed “divergent Nancy Adams, the lead U.S. Mondo, and Il Mondo officials could not be reached for comment. views” on the issue. negotiator for market access in Girard, who in mid-May circu- goods, told delegates the struc- ● CALLING ALL SHOPPERS: Rumors that Harrods is on the block lated a draft proposal of how tar- ture of the draft formula for tariff continue to swirl. The Observer newspaper in London reported iffs could be lowered, said he did cuts was “seriously flawed.” Sunday that Dickson Poon, owner of Harvey Nichols, has private- not intend to prepare a revised Adams’ comments were made in ly expressed an interest in buying Harrods. Neither Poon nor draft for the group’s next meeting a written statement distributed Harrods could be reached for comment. in July. His draft called for the during the closed-door committee elimination of all duties in seven meeting. The comments were not sectors, including textiles, cloth- distributed to the press, but WWD ing, footwear and leather goods. obtained them through sources. Corrections Illustrating the depths of dis- According to the statement, agreement on the matter, Girard Adams also said the draft would In “WWD: New Waves,” a supplement in today’s WWD, André said some diplomats considered not achieve genuine global market Leon Talley’s name was misspelled on page 28, as was Kelly his draft framework “too ambi- access, “including market access Gray’s name on page 42. tious,” while others thought “it Continued on page 17 3 Fashion Scoops MONDAY,WWD, 2003 2, JUNE SERVING SARAH: Clothes horse Sarah arrived at a cocktail party in her Jessica Parker plans to do more than honor Thursday night at Hélène serve as emcee for tonight’s Council Hellsten’s Madison Avenue shop, of Fashion Designers of America’s Clearly First. Nina Ricci designer Fashion Awards. Reprising her Lars Nilsson had flown in from Paris multi-outfit-a-thon from back in the to host the event and made a round days of hosting the VH1-Vogue of introductions on her behalf, Awards, Parker is said to be wearing pointing out the one-of-a-kind Op- looks from the evening’s three chairs Art blankets she had designed that — Calvin Klein, Carolina Herrera and cost up to $15,000. One of them, Vera Wang — at different points in made of panels of mink and metallic the night. What’s more, she’s also lace, had a greenish border that reportedly got looks cooked up from matched the Liljedahl’s greenish Oscar de la Renta and Narciso jacket, which, when asked, she Rodriguez, so that should keep revealed was designed by Steven heads spinning from appetizer to Slowik. (Slowik was Nilsson’s entrée to dessert. predecessor at Bill Blass, where both were eventually canned.) JOOP, THERE IT IS: What’s Wolfgang Joop been up to while on hiatus HICKS’ NEW DIGS: The Italian-born from his signature brand? He’s been fashion and textile designer Allegra writing a book. The designer, who Hicks, known for her delicate, Tamara and Natasha Surguladze unveiled an 11-day exhibition of his feminine patterns, plans to open a historic sketches at Sotheby’s store at 28 Cadogan Place in Thursday night, said he has just London in mid-September. Hicks, finished a novel, which he wrote whose designs range from carpets Tata Naka’s Free Association entirely by himself. “It’s half to caftans to a ready-to-wear autobiography and half fiction,” collection that bowed on London’s By Sarah Harris respective nicknames, immedi- “We have learned a lot on the Joop said. “It’s all about fashion fall 2003 runways, will shutter her ately upon leaving school and, way,” said Tamara. “When we talk, photographer talk, model talk. I current Cale Street store before LONDON — There are worse within three years, the line has had just begun, we suddenly called it ‘In Wolf’s Coat.’” moving into the new, 3,000-square- problems an upstart fashion label been sported by Cameron Diaz, had all these orders from The book will be published in foot corner unit overlooking Pont could face, but the designers be- Julianne Moore and Reese Barneys in New York, and we Germany in August, he said, and Street, a spokesman said. Husband hind Tata Naka have found their Witherspoon and picked up by had to paint 200 skirts practical- could come out in an English Ashley Hicks, an architect and showroom nearly bare recently, prestigious global accounts, in- ly overnight. Our friends there version after that. furniture designer, is designing the thanks to “Sex and the City.” cluding Harrods and Selfridges were so excited they called us new space, which includes the Almost every sample was up and said, ‘Write us notes and FRESH PRODUCE: The curtain was ground floor and lower ground called to New York this month, A Tata hide them in the pockets, then held up while the Hankses and floors, and which will look more like pulled by stylist Patricia Field Naka look we’ll go in and get them.’ ” Spielbergs navigated the red carpet, a home than a store with a drawing for Sarah Jessica Parker to con- for fall. As the skirts didn’t have but that didn’t stop Goldie Hawn, room, dining room, bedroom and sider for the show. Considering pockets, Tamara and Natasha Christina Applegate and Carrie Fisher library. Besides the rtw, home it’s filming its final season, the painted the skirts with the from laughing it up at the opening textiles and accessories, the store designers Tamara and Natasha names of their friends instead. Thursday night of “The Producers” will sell Ayurvedic products from Surguladze weren’t about to miss “I think they liked that even bet- in Los Angeles, starring Jason India — a place where Hicks finds the opportunity, even if the no- ter,” Tamara said. Alexander and Martin Short. “I want much of her inspiration. tion of dressing Carrie Bradshaw Although the sisters work to- to get up there and dance,” gushed and Co. might have once seemed gether to design one collection, Kate Hudson to hubby Chris GENDER BLENDER: London’s Victoria a little far-fetched to the identi- the label is broken down into Robinson during the intermission. & Albert Museum played host to cal twins born in the former two parts but under the umbrel- Later at the Palladium’s grand Jean Paul Gaultier’s first-ever U.K. Soviet Republic of Georgia. la of Tata Naka. Tamara de- ballroom, Mel Brooks held court retrospective Friday. In a one-off “Because we come from a signs “Stolen Memories,” the until after midnight. series of catwalk shows, Gaultier communist country, fashion was eveningwear element of the flaunted 42 looks, from his spring never seen as a business,” said line that concentrates on sur- CRAZY IN LOVE: Beyoncé Knowles 1981 collection to his latest, fall Tamara, who’s older by 15 min- face decoration. knows what she likes. The diva was 2003. The show was a part of the utes. “We always knew we want- “Because this part of the col- at Industria posing for Vogue on museum’s Fashion In Motion ed to do something creative and lection is handmade, every item Wednesday when she spotted series, in which designers are we were lucky our parents en- is individual,” she said, noting entertainment editor Jill Demling’s invited to put on catwalk shows. couraged us.” that a woman in Harrods Hogan bag and knew she had to Men wore skirts as trouser suits, At the age of 25, the route bought six of the same model have one just like it. A selection women wore coats as skirts and from Russia to London was a skirt, because they were all a was rushed over to the studio and underwear was outerwear. The short one. The sisters arrived in the U.K.; Dernier Cri, Fred little different. Knowles left with the bright yellow earliest look was a satin, corset here in 1996 to study at Central Segal Flair and Barneys New Natasha, who concentrates Bisaccia bag on her arm. She’s dress with conical implants — à la St. Martins College of Art, took York in the U.S.; Biffi in Milan; on the cut and prints of day been wearing it ever since. Madonna — and the most recent internships on Savile Row and Boutique Onward in Paris, and pieces, designs the rest of the was a haute couture trouser suit. graduated in 2000. They set up other stores in Japan, Saudi collection. Having an in-sync WHICH CAME FIRST?: Swedish home There were plenty of leather fetish- the Tata Naka label, after their Arabia and Sweden. Continued on page 19 furnishings designer Ulrika Liljedahl wear, sequins, feather hats and made a bit of a faux pas when she boleros in between. Marty Staff Denies Report of Sexual Harassment PEI and European Design NEW YORK — Marty Staff has vig- in Germany. tor of worldwide communica- orously denied a German news- The story said that, after leav- tions, said, “Hugo Boss is not able paper story that implied he sexu- ing Boss, the woman moved to the to comment under the current To Do Women’s Suit Line ally harassed Hugo Boss employ- West Coast and started her own circumstances because of legal ees. The Stuttgarter Zeitung business. A former Boss employee agreements between the compa- NEW YORK — Perry Ellis Inter- modern and upscale in attitude.” story, which ran Saturday, said a who fit the profile, according to ny and former employees.” national Inc. said Friday it had Miami-based PEI has been on former Boss employee received one WWD industry source, was Boss’ chairman and chief ex- inked a licensing deal with Euro- an expansion run in the women’s $250,000 to avoid potential scan- Meg Kalhammer, who designed ecutive Bruno Salzer was vice pean Design Group Inc. to pro- area this year. This spring it dals and lawsuits. Boss’ opulent U.S headquarters chairman overseeing Boss inter- duce a women’s suit line under launched a better-priced women’s As reported, Staff, former on West 26th Street in New York. national operations during most the Perry Ellis and Perry Ellis sportswear line at retail and in chief executive of Hugo Boss However, Kalhammer was of Staff ’s tenure. The article Portfolio brands. April it brought in Patrick Robin- USA, last week was named chief not named in the Stuttgarter also quotes anonymous sources The lines are to be launched son to serve as creative director executive of Penthouse maga- Zeitung story. that Salzer was aware of Staff ’s for spring 2004 retailing. for the line. zine’s licensing operation, PH Staff described the allegations reputation for wild parties at Oscar Feldenkreis, president PEI executives have sketched Brand Management LLC. of sexual harassment as “without Boss’ U.S. division. and chief operating officer of PEI, out aggressive growth plans for The Stuttgarter Zeitung, a re- merit.” “There is no sexual ha- Staff was at Hugo Boss USA said of the suit deal, “This agree- the brand, planning to grow dis- gional paper based near Boss’ rassment suit that happened,” he from 1998 until May 2002. He ment follows our plan to make tribution from an expected 500 headquarters in Metzingen, said said. When asked specifically grew the business dramatically, women’s clothing a major compo- retail doors — primarily depart- Boss paid the money to an inte- about Kalhammer, he described but then took leave as the nent of the Perry Ellis brand.” ment stores — to more than 800 rior designer who left the com- her as an excellent employee German office investigated ac- John Ward, president of Euro- stores by spring 2004. PEI last pany in October 2000. who “left to do her own thing.” counting in the U.S. business. pean Design’s DHG Inc. sub- year recorded earnings of $10.8 According to anonymous Reached by phone in Santa Staff, along with chief financial sidiary and a former Leslie Fay million on sales of $305.8 million. sources quoted in the article, the Monica, Calif., Kalhammer said, “I officer Vincent Ottomanelli, left Cos. chief executive, explained, European Design Group, a woman chronicled allegedly in- don’t want to talk to you about any the company and Hugo Boss dis- “We see two distinct price points 13-year-old company, has previ- appropriate behavior by Staff of this, thank you,” and hung up. closed accounting errors it rec- between Perry Ellis Portfolio and ously concentrated on manufac- and then had her lawyer send Reached by phone in Europe, tified with a $6 million charge. Perry Ellis, consistent with the turing private label merchan- the report to Boss’ top executives Philipp Wolff, Hugo Boss’ direc- — Thomas Cunningham brands’ positioning. Both will be dise for moderate-priced stores. 4

WWD, MONDAY, JUNE 2, 2003 WWD, MONDAY, The Legs Jil Sander Have It NEW YORK — Resort is all about showing a little — or a lot — of leg, as designers display gams with colorful dresses and cool skirts. At Oscar by Oscar de la Renta, embellishment is key with such looks as a sleek dress featuring a glass- beaded collar or a suede skirt with coin details. Edward Wilkerson, meanwhile, turned the Chinese charm up at Lafayette 148, topping a mini with an Asian-inspired top or vamping up a ruched dress with lacquer-hot red. And for Milan Vukmirovic’s last collection for Jil Sander, he created a line full of satin, splashed with green and pink or foliage prints and including a sexy wrap dress or two.

Jil Sander Lafayette 148 Oscar by Oscar de la Renta Oscar by Oscar de la Renta 5 WWD, MONDAY,WWD, 2003 2, JUNE

Lafayette 148 PHOTOS BY THOMAS IANNACCONE AND ROBERT MITRA ROBERT AND IANNACCONE THOMAS BY PHOTOS 6 The Transparent John: G WWD, MONDAY, JUNE 2, 2003 WWD, MONDAY,

Interiors of John Galliano’s first flagship, which opened last week in Paris.

coats perched on the mezzanine – is visi- Saint Honoré before he was arrested by By Miles Socha JJohnohn Galliano ble from the street, stopping pedestrians police and, ultimately, guillotined. PARIS — There’s nowhere to hide in the in their tracks. Even the plasma screens, More recently, the space was the shop arresting fishbowl of a boutique John stretching the length of the two-story atri- and atelier of Beresford, a blouse firm Galliano opened here last week — ex- um, blasts a video remix of Galliano’s that served the likes of Grace Kelly, and cept, of course, the spacious bathroom, greatest runway hits until midnight daily. later the outlet for Italian sportswear re- which is already generating buzz for its Hermann said the long-term plan is to tailer Caractere. lavishly embroidered wall panels. open similar boutiques in major cities, in- For Galliano and Hermann, the shop is “That’s very, very interesting that the cluding London, Tokyo and New York, but a major statement about how far they’ve girlies would start gossiping about the she set no timelines. In-store boutiques, in- come in defining the Galliano brand, espe- ladies’ room,” the designer said with a cluding ones in Galeries Lafayette in Paris cially since 1996, when the designer took laugh. “We like that.” and Bergdorf Goodman in New York, will up the reins at Dior. To be sure, curiosity has been at a be made over to the new design concept. “When I went to Dior, there were al- zenith for months about Galliano’s first Even though the store bowed less than ready codes to spin off and evolve, retail outpost in the world, which comes five weeks before Galliano will present his whereas we had to sit down and decide almost 20 years after the acclaimed debut men’s wear line and a couture col- what the codes were and what John British designer launched his own label. lection for Christian Dior in rapid succes- Galliano would stand for for the next 100 “High tech romance” is how Galliano sion, the designer oversaw every detail, years,” the designer said. “I think it’s describes the triangular, 1,700-square- from the wooden hangers engraved with going to be a great learning process for foot store on Rue Saint Honoré, which his logo to the unusual fragrance wafting us. We’ll get incredible feedback, and I juxtaposes gleaming silver with ancient from candles. He concocted the scent with think it’s going to be a growing experi- stone and plasma-screen televisions with Dyptique to distill the essence of Galliano. ence for this company.” elaborate Belle Epoque mouldings. The store aims to do that as well, with Sales at John Galliano totaled $29.7 mil- “The clothes have waited to be shown silver mannequins oozing fashion atti- lion last year, according to the annual re- like this for a long time,” Galliano told tude and fitting rooms equipped with port of its parent company, Christian Dior WWD during an exclusive preview of the gentle, flattering light and sensual croc- SA. Hermann and Galliano declined to re- store. “We are all super excited.” stamped leather on the floors. “You’re veal sales projections for the new flagship. And perhaps no one more so than very gently looked after here,” Galliano However, the 6,500-square-foot Kenzo bou- Galliano president Valerie Hermann, who said. “It’s a brand new concept and this is tique that recently opened in Rue de gleefully reported that more than 20 items, our flagship.” Rivoli is expected to have first-year sales from trenchcoats and evening gowns to lin- The designer collaborated with of $11 million, indicating the Galliano gerie sets, sold on the first day it opened, renowned French architect Jean Michel store should do slightly less than $10 mil- without any announcement or fanfare. Vilmotte to overhaul a space that boasts a lion annually. Dollar figures are converted Not that the boutique is discreet. rich history. During the French from euros at current exchange rates. The entirety of its contents — from the Revolution, Robespierre is said to have Hermann said Galliano sales are cur- bias-cut dresses suspended on a rail de- lived in the attic of the building, at 384 Rue rently growing at about 25 percent per scending from the ceiling to the silver Saint Honoré. Slipping out one evening, year and she expects the double-digit mo- mannequins in voluminous black trench- Robespierre made it only as far as 400 Rue mentum to keep up for the foreseeable 7 Galliano Opens Flagship MONDAY,WWD, 2003 2, JUNE

future. She added that the company has been profitable for the past five years. “I think we still have market share to gain,” she said. “[John] has great potential to take share in the feminine, luxurious mar- ket, because no one does it better.” Ready-to-wear, sold in about 175 doors worldwide, still accounts for about 80 per- cent of the Galliano business, but the last four years have seen the designer expand into handbags and small leather goods, footwear and, more recently, eyewear and lingerie. Next up: Galliano’s hotly anticipated men’s collection, slated to be unveiled on June 27 during men’s fashion week here. Pressed for details about the collection, the designer demurred, describing it as a “soft launch” rather than a runway blowout. But he promised “very selective” distribution, the same quality and finishing as his women’s collection and “perfect tailoring.” Galliano’s big project after that will be a signature fragrance, but he and Hermann declined to set a time frame for the launch, stressing that quality is more important than speed in developing a de- signer brand over the long term. In the meantime, the Paris boutique is bound to raise Galliano’s profile even more, and open the consumer’s eyes to the breadth of his product offering. Hermann said it was important to be able to offer af- fordable items, like sunglasses and lin- gerie, to more fantastic pieces like sari- style chiffon dresses decorated with gold coins. Retail prices range from about $175 for sunglasses up to about $3,500 for evening dresses. Shoes run from about $210 for pumps up to about $1,200 for em- broidered knee-high boots. Everything is packaged in boxes and tissue decorated with the designer’s now- famous Galliano Gazette newsprint, with a fabric flower tied on the rubber-band han- dle of every shopping bag. “It’s the first time we can express our- selves from A to Z,” Hermann said. “We are known for our chiffon dresses, of course, but we want people to know we also have suits for working women and things for young girls, like a camisole she can put with jeans.” Indeed, Galliano even interpreted some of his greatest hits in black — the “pirate” jacket, kilt skirt and bias-cut dress — and displayed them on the main floor as a visual crash course to his fit, styling and attitude. “I felt that it was a nice way to introduce new clients to Galliano. It’s all about the cut and the styling. I’m all about the leather coat with the floral chiffon dress,” he said. Scanning the outfits lining the wall, he prescribed the leather jacket and lingerie- style slipdress to a Kate Moss type and the cropped military jacket over a lace and chiffon column to a woman of Stella Tennant’s ilk. Then he plucked a delicate- ly shirred camisole from the rack and de- clared, “Something like that with jeans would be heaven.” The store opened with a mix of pre-col- lection and runway looks, but Galliano is eager to introduce new items every two weeks to keep the store looking “fresh and appealing.” Clothes are hung sparsely to give them a proper showcase. Hermann is planning some newspaper advertising this month to announce the opening of the Paris store. Also, Galliano said he plans to fete the story during cou- ture week in Paris, but on a small scale, hosting a dinner elsewhere and then tak- ing editors and retailers on a personally guided tour. Transparent as the store is, he doesn’t want anyone to miss all the small details. “I think it’ll be more meaningful to show it this way,” he said. “At those big opening bashes,

you never see the clothes — or the store.” FEUGERE STEPHANE BY PHOTOS 8 Cannes Watch

Penélope Cruz in Isn’t It Rich? Dior. The only thing shining brighter than the Mediterranean sun at the recent Cannes Film Festival was all the glittering jewelry. Hollywood’s

WWD, MONDAY, JUNEWWD, MONDAY, 2, 2003 finest stepped out dripping in jewels — especially diamonds — with plenty of gold to match. Penélope Cruz and Nicole Kidman made dramatic — but separate — entrances: Cruz in an intricate jade Dior look and Kidman in a Bulgari necklace that held up her Pucci gown. Monica Bellucci traded in the Latex number she wore in “Matrix Reloaded” for a frilly Dior gown topped with a sparkling Cartier piece. Meanwhile, Indian film star Aishwarya Rai Andie MacDowell and Clint Eastwood wore Fay at the Cannes Film Festival. went for traditional gold Indian drop earrings and necklaces to match her saris. Fay Preps for U.S. Debut Iman in De Beers. MILAN — Fay might not be a household name in the U.S., but it’s increasingly garnering devotees in Europe. And, with Diego Della Valle behind this brand, it stands a good chance of becoming as well known as the entrepreneur’s two other brands, Tod’s and Hogan. Della Valle plans to launch Fay in the U.S. next year, but through the popu- larity of Tod’s and Hogan among the Hollywood set, he already has an in with such celebrities as Clint Eastwood and Andie Mac- Dowell, who were wearing the brand at the Cannes Film Festival last month. Kevin Costner and Antonio Banderas also have been spotted wearing the label. Fay’s growing impor- tance within the group is con- firmed by the first-quarter financial figures released last month. While Tod’s remained the group’s leading brand, accounting for 57.3 per- cent of total sales, which were $119.3 million, Fay made the strongest contribution to the sales growth: a 29 percent in- crease compared with the year- ago period, accounting for 14.9 percent, or about $17.8 million, of the group’s revenues. Dollar

BARSON; SMITH AND KIDMAN: JEFF VESPA JEFF KIDMAN: AND SMITH BARSON; Nicole Kidman in Jada Pinkett Smith figures are converted from euros Bulgari and Pucci. inin ChopardChopard jewels.jewels. at current exchange rates. “We are happy to see Fay is Monica appealing to the most impor- Bellucci in tant buyers in the industry, ” Cartier said Della Valle. “This is a necklace good basis on which to pro- mote the brand in the U.S.” and Dior Though launched in 1987 dress. dress. as an outerwear brand and Looks from Diego Della Valle’s Fay line. best known for its four-hook jacket, Fay has evolved into a full ready-to-wear collection aimed at an up- scale market. This year, the company further expanded its range with handbags for spring, and for fall, Fay showed soft napa or calf bags featur- ing the signature hook. “The four-hook jacket was conceived for outdoor activities, but we made it into a functional, all-day garment that can be worn to work or to a dinner,” said Martino Scabbia Guerrini, brand manager. “We want Fay to be timeless, long lasting and not too trend oriented, and we want our cus- tomers to feel comfortable but elegant at the same time.” Hits for fall are velvet jackets with detachable zipped vests, fitted jackets in water-resistant linen or natural soft leather with two wide buck- les on the waist that adjust the fit. Jackets and bombers retail between $400 and $800. The company also is broadening its retail network, which now counts a boutique on Via Spiga here, designed by the American architect Philip Johnson and inaugurated late last year, and a boutique that will open in Naples this fall. Later this year, Fay will be available at the group’s new building in Tokyo’s Omotesando district, and next year, Fay will open bou- tiques in Paris and Munich. Elizabeth The line also is available at 500 sales points in Europe and at the Hurley group’s 11 Dev stores, the multibrand retail concept launched last year by wearing Della Valle, which sells all the group’s brands under the same roof. Chopard Fay is produced in-house in Tuscany and the Marche region, where jewelryjewelry andand Della Valle’s company is based. Versace Aishwarya Rai in — Luisa Zargani dress. traditional Indian gold. ALL PHOTOS FROM WIREIMAGE.COM; CRUZ: DAVE HOGAN; EASTWOOD, IMAN AND AISHWARYA: JEAN BAPTISTE LACROIX; BELLUCCI AND HURLEY: TONY HURLEY: AND BELLUCCI LACROIX; BAPTISTE JEAN AISHWARYA: AND IMAN EASTWOOD, HOGAN; DAVE CRUZ: WIREIMAGE.COM; FROM PHOTOS ALL

10 Good to Grow Brands are taking on the tough times by keeping a close eye on store expansions and diversifying products for wider audiences.

Continued from page 2 surprising the customer so they come into our stores or the WWD, MONDAY, JUNE 2, 2003 WWD, MONDAY, is choppy. But our orientation is really the long term. corners and boutiques we sell to, expecting one thing and We’re putting in the building blocks for what will be an getting surprised by the diversification and new divi- important growth phase. It’s a worldwide opportunity.” sions,” including watches. “We’re known for silver and With 255 owned stores and 85 licensed stores around gold with colored stones, then we did silver with dia- the world, and retailing generating 40 percent of the monds, which is very new and very unusual. So are our company’s $2 billion in annual sales, Polo’s new growth major chain collections — necklaces and bracelets with phase will center on the Blue Label line. Three stores flexible soft woven handmade chains, from about $300 to were converted to the format last fall, and 4,000- to 5,000- $2,500 in silver, and in gold, up to $6,000.” square-foot Blue Label sites are expected to be “Everybody is rethinking the product line, rethinking the launched soon, possibly this fall, in the U.S. and abroad. distribution, working much closer with their business mod- About a month ago, another new concept, Ralph Lauren els and trying to home in on their core competencies, rather Baby, launched on Madison Avenue, and Farah believes than just trying to sell 10,000 square feet of stuff,” said Robin there are still opportunities to open additional full-blown Kramer, of Kramer Design Group. Polo luxury stores in the U.S. and abroad. He’s traveled to “Efficiency is the name of the game,” said Massimo Russia, Asia and Europe to determine the interest. Ferragamo, chairman of Salvatore Ferragamo USA. “You “We are strategizing the retail rollout,” Farah said. must be able to relook at business, cut costs in some cases, At Donna Karan, retail growth won’t be as quick. but not to the detriment of the customers.” According to Fred Wilson, chief executive, “We are going to Squeezed by the rise of such shoe brands as Jimmy Choo, have a slow and steady expansion of our retail stores. There Stuart Weitzman and Manolo Blahnik, Ferragamo has is major potential for our own retail stores and retail expan- adapted its retail strategy. With the exception of a Fifth sion,” though not right away. “It will be a slow and steady Avenue flagship opening in August, new stores will be small- expansion beginning in 12 to 18 months, depending on the er and skewed toward accessories, with reduced space for economy. The strategy is not changing, but the timing is.” rtw. Recently, Ferragamo’s SoHo store was consolidated by At Diane Von Furstenberg, “our retail sector is so new closing the lower level, leaving just the main level. right now that there is an enormous opportunity for “We have a new concept [for retail stores] that we growth since we are really in the beginning stages,” said have been working on with slightly less space with a Paula Sutter, president. DVF has a store in the West greater presence of our core business — accessories, Village and in Merrick Park, in Coral Gables, Fla., and a leathers and silks. We are adapting well,” said London shop will be opening soon. “The DVF brand is so Ferragamo. “In smaller cities, obviously we don’t need a strong globally right now that it is actually a perfect time full-blown store,” he said, noting that the Atlanta store for us to be maximizing that brand recognition,” she said. opened in early May is only 3,500 square feet, with 2,500 Designers are paying greater DVF, Sutter assured, won’t make the mistake that other square feet devoted to selling space. Previously, attention to boutiques like Tender. designers made by opening big, bold, costly flagships that Ferragamo would build stores with 50 percent of the did more for brand image than for the bottom line. “Our space for selling; 50 percent for nonselling. Though Realty Advisors LLC. philosophy for our retail business is really to keep the stores of the future might be smaller, meaning lower Other sources indicated to WWD that there’s plenty of stores small and special — they will never feel like a cook- rents, the company, Ferragamo maintained, can keep turbulence on the designer real estate front. For instance: ie cutter.” She sees them as “tiny, glittering jewel boxes, all growing by becoming more efficient in turning over the ● Prada has put up for sale the site for its long-awaited sharing the image of DVF, but reflecting the mood of the merchandise and replenishments through improved sys- 22,500-square-foot flagship in San Francisco, which was to city they are in. Therefore, the customer will have a slight- tems and data. As the balance shifts to accessories, and have been designed by Rem Koolhaas. ly different experience in each of our shops.” reduced rtw in men’s and women’s, Ferragamo said the ● Hugo Boss this spring closed two stores, in Atlanta Sutter added: “We have a great number of brand company can recover rtw sales through trunk shows, and West Palm Beach, but the company denied rumors its licensing opportunities right now, such as the launch of where the full rtw collections are shown. Fifth Avenue flagship is also on the chopping block. To our beauty-fragrance, sunglasses and tenniswear — so it According to real estate brokers and landlords, lease save costs, the Hugo Boss retail operations team was shift- is important for us to keep expanding our retail locations. activity is decelerating and reports of brands abandoning ed from New York offices to its new Savannah, Ga., distri- “As far as the economic climate is concerned, we locations, or reversing decisions about store openings, are bution facility, but the sales staff remains. The German believe that, even in an uncertain economy, you must on the rise. “People are committing to fewer stores and firm is proceeding with its 10,000-square-foot store in the stick to your plan and really learn to go a bit slowly.” doing it with more diligence on the due diligence. They are AOL/Time Warner complex on Columbus Circle, slated to That seems to be the prevailing mood. “We started our not that aggressive or bullish because of the current econo- open sometime between August and October. company by borrowing $500, and we still have a philoso- my,” said Nate Forbes, managing partner of The Forbes Co., ● Nars, a niche color cosmetics division of Shiseido, phy to do things in a prudent manner,” said Sybil Yurman, which operates The Gardens of the Palm Beaches in Palm has put its previously announced SoHo store “on hold,” president and co-founder of jeweler David Yurman, which Beach, Somerset Collection in Troy, Mich., and The Mall at according to the company. has just two stores, on Madison Avenue and in Costa Mesa, Millenia in Orlando, Fla., shopping centers where 10 to 15 ● Chanel is pouring money into renovating existing Calif., and no others on the drawing boards currently. percent of the tenants are purveyors of luxury merchandise. stores, and plans to convert the third floor “suite” at its 57th “Bigger isn’t always better, but this is no time to be coast- “Designers need to maximize those stores that are Street flagship into selling space, though officials acknowl- ing,” Yurman said. “It’s really time to use all your thinking performing, and not suffer with those that aren’t. They edge few opportunities for additional full-line sites. Its power and talent. We stay one step ahead of our customers are more likely to sublet their space, and willing to bite smaller, accessories-only format has legs, however. with product diversification. We are always involved in the bullet,” said Laura Pomerantz, co-principal, PBS ● Tod’s plans to launch its lower-priced Fay line in the U.S. next year and is reportedly looking for store sites in New York to roll out the sub brand. (For a sepa- rate story on Fay, see page 8.) ● Burberry’s lower-priced Thomas Burberry collec- tion is coming to America this fall, and the first stop will be Bloomingdale’s in SoHo, opening this November. The line is currently only sold in Europe. ● Shanghai Tang, which has come and gone and returned to Madison Avenue, is reportedly again looking to get out of its space at 714 Madison, between 64th and 65th Streets. However, Anna Brjevskaia, assistant to the store manager, said, “We are not closing or relocating.” It’s not only a matter of relinquishing a site when the return on investment falls short. It appears that some designer brands are getting pragmatic by changing tac- tics to save costs and curtail risk. Nautica-owned Earl Jean, which has a new store format that appeared in SoHo last year, has yet to roll it out to other markets as planned. In addition, H. Stern intended to open a store in SoHo but backed out, and Cartier closed its SoHo store, though the company always said from the start it could be just temporary. In Midtown, the Nautica flagship is up in the air. The company has already admitted it is rethink- ing its strategy for the site in Rockefeller Center. As one international store builder said, “We are just seeing so much less work, and whatever is around is so incredibly price sensitive. The pressure on the construc- tion side is worse than I can ever remember it.” Nowadays, the builder lamented, it’s more common to see construction jobs getting bid out. Before, brands would not think twice about hiring the builder it worked with before, one with a track record for quality and get- At Ferragamo, assortments will be weighted more toward accessories and shoes and less toward ready-to-wear. ting jobs done on schedule and in time for the selling sea- son. “Designers are looking to get the same thing done for 11 WWD, MONDAY,WWD, 2003 2, JUNE and Madison,” said Jeffrey Paisner, executive managing director of The Lansco Corp. “They own the building, but they decided not to use it. Montblanc [which is owned by Compagnie Financière Richemont SA] took over the space. The fact they didn’t use it was compelling. At stores like Burberry and Montblanc, you get the satisfac- tion of purchasing a luxury item, a bag, a key chain or a scarf, without spending a luxurious amount of money. Montblanc is certainly moving ahead. Burberry is not act- ing scared in terms of expansion. They’re generating the capital they need to justify opening new doors. “But many brands aren’t in an expansion mode right now,” Paisner added. “They want to keep the fleet afloat, rather than launching new ships. The drop in tourism has really hurt luxury brands.” It’s also affected shopping centers that have long catered to affluent tourists, among them the 500,000- square-foot Bal Harbour Shops center in southeast Florida. “In my budget, I am focusing on the local drive market,” said Cheryl Stephenson, director of marketing. “We’re advertising heavily in Naples,” which is about a two-hour drive west of Bal Harbour. “We dropped 5,000 cat- alogs in the Naples market and we’re getting phone calls every day asking for directions. The city does not have the boutiques we have, such as Roberto Cavalli or Dolce & Gabbana.” She also said the center has put up billboards in Fort Lauderdale, about a half hour north of Bal Harbour, A rendering of the first Ellen Tracy store, opening in August in the Americana Manhasset. for the first time, and overall the marketing dollars have shifted. Sixty to 65 percent of the budget is directed at con- sumers in the Miami-Dade area and those who are a cou- ple of hours away by car; 35 to 40 percent is directed at tourists. Before, it was just the reverse, Stephenson said. Marketing dollars might best be spent on successful upscale brands that fall into the sub-luxury zone by cre- ating a designer aura, but without charging the designer price points. Coach, Stuart Weitzman, Lilly Pulitzer, Burberry, and Max Mara are in this league. There’s also Ellen Tracy, a bridge designer business with a mature business at Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue and Bloomingdale’s. Nevertheless, the company said it has plenty of growth opportunities and four main strategies: launching Ellen Tracy stores, international dis- tribution, licensing and accessories. Though it operates outlets, it’s one of the few high-profile designer brands that has resisted opening regular-priced retail stores, until now. The brand will be supported in the expansion by its new owner, Liz Claiborne, which purchased Ellen Tracy last year. The first Ellen Tracy store is expected to open at the Americana Manhasset shopping center this August. Like other brands moving beyond their core rtw collections into different merchandise, Ellen Tracy will be launching hand- bags and jewelry for fall 2003. It’s also “reemphasizing the luxury element in the product” through new national advertising, stated Glenn McMahon, president. “Despite the fact that we do have strong relations with Neiman’s, Saks and Bloomingdale’s, we think there Bal Harbour Shops has shifted marketing dollars to locales within a couple of hours away. are tremendous growth opportunities,” McMahon said. “In a competitive market area that’s been challenged, we less, without messing with the aesthetic,” he said. Hugo Boss has been streamlining. “Considering the are happy to say we are holding our own and are on plan. Gucci, for example, decided to use Price Woods, a contrac- money they put into their stores, they were expecting a We think that in this difficult environment, the strong get tor from Arizona, to work on its new flagship at the Americana larger payback,” said a source close to the company. “But stronger. We’re looking for increased market share,” Manhasset on Long Island, a unique shopping center with an the problem is that they are vendors, not retailers. A including at its three key retailers. As far as additional unusually high proportion of luxury brands. “They can send in retailer understands each market and understands the retail stores, the strategy for now is to concentrate on supervisory people from Arizona and that’s a lot cheaper than need for advertising and promotion. Hugo Boss does not finding sites in the New York metro area “for the time using people from New York,” said a source. believe in advertising and promotion for their stores, but being,” McMahon said. Meanwhile, Claiborne is closing Tomaso Galli, Gucci’s director of communications, said they will have to adapt to stay in the American market.” its 22 remaining Liz Claiborne stores, reflecting how dif- Gucci has used this contractor in at least four locations Buying decisions for the individual stores, said the ficult it can be for vendors to become retailers. before, from Honolulu to Texas and Florida. “We’re look- source, are too centralized. A 3,500-square-foot store in Yet, it is important for them to understand retailers’ ing at all our costs very carefully and staying on top of Denver, for example, “didn’t even do a million [dollars] in needs, and try to accommodate their retail customers them for about the past year.” But, as other sources said, sales. You can’t make a profit off that,” the source said. more. For example, at Tuleh, a growing designer brand, with consumers holding back on spending, com- “we don’t take things back, but if we see a coat panies have to work twice as hard to keep costs at Bergdorf Goodman that hasn’t sold, and I down and still entice spending. know I have a customer, I’ll take it back,” said The trick is to do that without losing the com- Designer brands have broadened their Tuleh’s Bryan Bradley. Consignments are out of petitive edge. “There are things you can do to “ the question, he stated. make your business a little smarter, a little faster appeal in anticipation of the shrinking urban, In any case, bending to please smaller retail in tough times; maybe hold back in certain areas, accounts could be beneficial and some boutiques and no doubt sharpen the pencil. However, you older customer. They’ve targeted those with are noticing a difference. For example, at recent must plan for the future,” advised Chanel’s buying appointments with Miu Miu in Milan, Kopelman. “You still tighten the belt, with such $150,000 incomes and higher. Now, it’s Karen Daskas, co-partner in Tender, a 3,000- things as advertising or promotions, but you don’t square-foot designer shop in Birmingham, Mich., want to cut back to the point so when business dropped to $100,000 and up. also selling Pucci, Blumarine, Etro and Paul does turn around, you are at a competitive disad- — Nate” Forbes, The Forbes Co. Smith, has been surprised by what she got — vantage because others have been investing.” some time and attention. At Chanel, “We are heavily investing in our “They were sitting with me, watching me buy, boutiques to modernize them,“ Kopelman added. “Peter Asked if the Fifth Avenue flagship could close, Katja everyone from Jay Sternstein to Joh Siff,” respectively, Marino [the store designer] has done a whole new look, Dovedari, Boss’ vice president of marketing and public rela- the rtw sales manager, and senior vice president of sales which we did in Honolulu early this year. The results have tions, stated, “That’s not true. We make money there, but and marketing of Prada. “They sit there with paper and been so good that we are accelerating our plans to redo all who on Fifth Avenue makes a fortune? No one. We’ll make pen, and it’s been that way increasingly in the last two of our stores. Frankly, they were getting a little dated. They a lot of money at AOL.” With the AOL complex, the question years. They are watching. There is a new appreciation of were beautiful stores, but we needed an environment where is whether stores will draw enough traffic to support the the specialty store in the U.S. because of the growing products were the stars, not the bones. This is a big financial rents, which, on the ground floor, are more than $300 a demand put on designers by department stores. There’s commitment. This is not redecorating. A lot of companies square foot. Stores must also pay huge common-area main- co-op, markdown money, guarantees and the new thing would have pulled back from this kind of rapid rollout.” tenance charges, at more than $40 a foot, though rents drop is consignment. It’s really happening.” Chanel will be building more accessories-only shops, to $110 to $135 a square foot on the second or third floors. “Over the last 24 months, strong luxury brands have including one in the Mall at Short Hills, in New Jersey, Asked about sales at the Hugo store in SoHo, which focused on continuing to build their brand, like Vuitton, and probably other locations, in addition to the two oper- sells younger, more contemporary styles, Dovedari said, Burberry, Gucci and Tiffany,” observed developer Nate ating on Madison Avenue and in Orlando. However, as “It’s not an easy thing in SoHo.” The Beverly Hills Hugo Forbes. “They’ve really contemporized their businesses, far as full-line Chanel stores, “If we did one or two more, Boss store on Rodeo Drive, she added, will undergo a in the marketing and the merchandising. They’ve broad- that would be it. Basically, we have a mature distribution six-week renovation this summer. ened their appeal in anticipation of the shrinking urban in this country, both at retail and wholesale,” Kopelman There are other signs that designer brands are adapt- older customer. They’ve gone younger in age, and in the said. However, “we are never going to have a second-tier ing their retail strategies. “The perfect metaphor for old days, they targeted those with $150,000 incomes or line. A diffusion line would have diluent impact.” what’s going on is LVMH on the [northwest] corner of 57th higher. Now, it’s dropped to $100,000 and up.” 12 NEW YORK — Paul Van Doren started his Vans sneaker company in 1966 out of a corner shop in Anaheim, California. The store offered three canvas styles of vulcanized-rubber-soled shoes, at prices rang- ing from $2.49 to $4.99, but when a dozen customers tried to buy them on opening day, they found that only display models had been made. Van Doren and his partners had to close the shop for a few hours to have the shoes made at their nearby factory. Later that afternoon, when the customers returned to pick up their orders, Van Doren re- alized he had forgotten to have cash available for change. Vans Glam It didn’t take long for the sneakers to become cult favorites among skateboarders, BMX riders and beach kids in Southern , MONDAY, JUNE 2, 2003 , MONDAY,

D California. But after Sean Penn’s iconic depiction of Jeff Spicoli in

W “Fast Times at Ridgemont High,” the shoes became a more wide- W spread trend. For “alternateens,” Vans were a cultural phenome- non on par with MTV — a brand keyed into skating, music and the cult of cool. And, again like MTV, the company has kept a loyal fol- lowing among the adults who grew up with it, and has managed to 1 stay current at the same time. Despite, or maybe because of, its lackadaisical beginnings, the company has grown into the domi- nant brand for the alternative-sports crowd. But the shoes are also sported by the likes of Gwen Stefani, Avril Lavigne and Pink. Meanwhile, discontinued styles can command as much as $300 on eBay or in vintage stores such as L.A.’s Resurrection. Seeking to 2 capitalize on this, the firm will introduce the Vans Vault in June, a shoe line that features unique twists on the popular classic styles, luxury materials and collaborations with fashion designers. “English girls who go to New York make a special trip to Magic Shoes on Bleecker Street to buy Vans,” says Luella Bartley, who created Vans high-tops for her spring collection. “Their essence is based on kids knocking about. They’re like a best mate.” Steve Mills, head designer of the Vault collection, says, “Ten years ago, fashion was a taboo word, but now that world has intersected ours.” The new collection riffs on the firm’s classics. Mills and his team went to town with unpredictable but infectious colors that range from citrus green to bright fuchsia as well as brown and tan. Women’s, men’s and unisex styles are being carried at such stores as Classic Kicks in New York and Conveyor at Fred Segal and American Rag in L.A.; retail prices range from $65 to $110. Mills projects that 32,000 to 38,000 units will sell globally for fall, and is projecting 200 to 228 retail accounts for the season. A 3,500-square-foot Vans flagship is slated to open on London’s Carnaby Street for fall 2003. It will feature women’s and men’s footwear, clothes and accessories. Meanwhile, at Manhattan’s 99X, a specialty athletic footwear shop, a waiting list has been growing for the Vault line since cus- tomers had a glimpse of them at the Luella Bartley show in 3 September. Says Amy Stevons, manager and buyer, “They stand out from everything else, and in New York people want what is dif- ferent. More than a few people end up bummed out when limited styles sell out.” Mazik Saevitz, who owns Conveyor at Fred Segal, says, “I had to hold back when I was ordering, but in the end I couldn’t resist. I wish all of the shoe companies could look like this. They are the freshest styles, and there is a real buzz surrounding them.” While shoe designer Edmundo Castillo creates ultrafeminine women’s shoes for his own collection, he’s also a self-proclaimed Vans fanatic who scours boutiques in London, Milan and New York for un- usual styles. “I nearly crashed my car the other day when I saw a guy wearing a style I’d never seen,” says Castillo, who owns more than 30 pairs. “Their whole attitude makes you relaxed and easy. Even when you’re stressed out, you’re still just chillin’ in Vans.” 4 “It’s not unusual to find these ‘sneakerologists’ whose obses- sions help to set trends,” says Mills. In fact, Rebecca Taylor — who, like Luella Bartley, is collaborat- 1. A ponyskin Skate-high ing with the company — had her interest sparked by her husband’s collection of Vans. Taylor’s designs include suedes perforated with 2. Rebecca Taylor’s suede and canvas floral motifs and multicolored pointelle dot slip-ons. “The beauty of Slip-ons these shoes is that they bring out your inner tomboy,” Taylor says. Taylor and Bartley will continue to contribute designs to Vans 3. Ponyskin checkerboard Slip-ons Vault. Taylor finds that working with the firm makes her feel cre- ative and relaxed. Says the New York–based designer, “There is re- 4. Luella Bartley’s canvas Skate-highs ally nothing like having them call you up and say, ‘Dude, I’m really stoked about the sneakers.’ ” — Jeannie Chen

t’s cool to see girls in One Vans,” said pro skater flirty Tony Trujillo, surrounded “I look. by a gaggle of downtown divas at Viva le Vault the launch party for the Vans Vault line Thursday night. “The shoes work for fashion or skating — they go both ways.” That neatly summed up the Sky Studios bash, where the iconic sneakers were seen on beefy-armed bartenders, down- town hipsters and a handful of California dudes sporting long, sunbleached locks. Added to the mix were skating legend Steve Caballero, Claire Danes, and mu- sician Ben Lee, who deejayed for the party before he began a set with his band. Mark Haskins, a designer for the Vault collection, made the rounds in a pair of Vans he had handpainted to Rajiah Williams, Tatyana Volokitin and Chioma Nnadi. match the floral print of his Ben Sherman shirt. Ben Lee and Claire Danes Amy Gunther and Josie Perez PHOTOS BY STEVE EICHNER ANDEICHNER STEVE BY PHOTOS TURNER DAVID WWDAccessories Issue Date: August 4 Close: July 6

The ultimate consumer shopping guide for accessories from the most plugged-in editors in fashion.

Timed to the fall shopping season, arriving to consumers just as the best fall handbags, sunglasses, scarves, shoes, belts, hats and wallets hit the stores.

For more information on advertising in this special WWD coated stock supplement, WWDMediaWorldwide® contact Ralph Erardy, SVP Group Publisher at 212/630-4589, or your sales representative. 14 Accessories Report Cole Haan’s Face of a Woman

By Marc Karimzadeh ture fashionable women in dynamic movement — and wearing Cole Haan shoes, outerwear and handbags. WWD, MONDAY, JUNE 2, 2003 WWD, MONDAY, NEW YORK — Cole Haan wants to “It was important to reveal the Cole Haan woman emphasize its emotional and femi- with the full exposure of the bag, the shoes and the coat nine side. to get the look,” Thompson said. “For a long time, Cole Where once the 75-year-old brand Haan has been a shoemaker. We are hoping consumers was considered a traditional, some- have a bigger view than shoes.” what sleepy, men’s footwear business, Holding the new creative next to last year’s image of Matt Rubel, chairman and chief execu- a concealed woman relaxing in a red Mercedes convert- tive officer, has turned the company in a ible, Rubel noted, “It’s the same lady, but she’s a little new direction, and now, the momentum more stylish with a shorter jacket. We have evolved into of its upscale women’s business is in- a fashion brand, got her out of moccasins, into heels and creasingly the driving force at the Nike into fashion. We believe that, as we become a full fash- Inc.-owned firm. ion brand, it is important to start to allow the woman to Rubel said this is a result of bringing picture herself.” an emotional rather than rational per- The new ad images will launch in September books spective to the overall design, as well as such as Vogue, W, In Style and Vanity Fair, with an esti- building the women’s handbag and out- mated budget of $8 million, according to industry sources. erwear segments, while successfully “Over the last couple of years, under the leadership launching the sub-brand, G-Series, of Matt Rubel, the brand has been reenergized and refo- which is projected to surpass Cole cused and it is apparent in today’s business,” said Gail Haan’s volume in the next five years. Pisano, executive vice president of merchandising at Rubel declined to give sales informa- Saks Fifth Avenue. “We have seen significant growth, tion, but industry sources estimated not only in the men’s business. [Rubel] reenergized the Cole Haan’s business at more than $300 total brand and then focused on the opportunity that ex- million in wholesale and retail. isted in the women’s classification. He expanded his “We were a men’s fine leather goods customer base and captured a more modern and company that stood for quality and tra- A boot from the G-Series, launched last younger-in-attitude customer.” dition,” said Rubel, who took the helm at February; the company’s new ads unveil Meanwhile, Rubel added that Cole Haan’s G- Cole Haan in 1999. “We looked at the company, and the face of the Cole Haan woman. Series footwear brand, which was launched evolved it into a women’s and a men’s company through last February and combines fashionable branding and product, and by understanding the dy- 4,500-square-foot unit at the new AOL designs with innovations from Nike’s namics of the luxury accessories market, with fine ma- Time Warner Center on Columbus Circle technology lab, is slated to grow as large terials and reachable pricing.” in Manhattan this September which, for as the core brand. Gordon Thompson, executive vice president and cre- the first time, will make the women’s “Cole Haan’s strategy has been to ative director, said, “Cole Haan had great ingredients, assortment the centerpiece. grow both the core customer, and they but a lousy recipe…it’s been a very rational brand with- “The entire main floor will be a have introduced a whole new fashion out a lot of emotion. The last three years have been de- women’s salon,” Rubel said. “Walking customer, specifically with their G- voted to reengineering, and reintroducing a lot of emo- into the store, customers will find a Series,” said Klein at Bloomingdale’s. tion in women. women’s salon with handbags and small According to Rubel, plans include a G- “It’s been a lot of fixing, and now we are done fixing leather goods.” Series in-store concept and a full line of and are ready to grow,” he added. The handbags, which were launched four accessories by the end of 2004. Thompson Cole Haan began in Chicago in 1928 as a men’s years ago, are also distributed to such special- said he expects to raid Nike’s sports tech- footwear label created by Trafton Cole and Eddie Haan, ty and department stores as Neiman Marcus, Cole Haan’s Gordon nology for handbag inspiration. and was purchased by Nike Inc. in 1988. Today, Cole Saks Fifth Avenue and Bloomingdale’s. Thompson and Matt Rubel. “[The G-Series] combines beauty with Haan has 67 stores in the U.S. and is planning to add six “The Cole Haan handbag business is technology,” Thompson said. “For bags, it more in the next 18 months. growing very quickly,” said Francine Klein, senior vice will be the same way…taking inspiration from the sport Until recently, men’s accounted for 60 percent of sales, president and general merchandise manager at category, looking at nuances and technologies and inter- while women’s took up the remaining 40 percent. For the Bloomingdale’s. “We have expanded it to all of our doors esting designs and applying those. But it will probably first time in the company’s history, the ratio flipped this at this point and the business is terrific. They have been be more from the materials lab at Nike. It would be fas- year, with women’s making up 60 percent. That would able to blend fashion and color with a classic twist.” cinating to combine some of their proprietary materials bring the total women’s business to $180 million. For fall, Cole Haan’s handbag assortment continues with leather for handbags.” Besides footwear, women’s categories are handbags, to home in on soft, structured shapes, with top handle Rubel added: “[The G-Series] creates a strategy of which are produced in-house; outerwear, licensed to G- bags in pebbled leather and colors such as plum, pink, growth, with multiple platforms and multiple con- III Apparel Group, and watches with Fossil. Accessories beige and red. sumers. We are also studying entering Europe with account for 25 percent of the women’s business or about The emphasis on women is also key in the company’s Cole Haan and G-Series. We will further drive the $45 million. new ad campaign, which was created by Lloyd & Co. In women’s handbag business. We are looking at cate- These days, the Yarmouth, Maine-based company’s recent seasons, Cole Haan typically made product the gories like eyewear, fragrance and home. Cole Haan’s strategy is to capitalize on the strength of the women’s star of the ads — also created by Lloyd — and featured strategy is to create a women’s brand and also drive the business. To that end, Cole Haan is planning to unveil a models only with concealed faces. The new images fea- men’s business.”

duo, Michele Quan and Robin Renzi, creative design show originality at its best.” reintroducing. The line includes cotton and celebrated the opening of their new store at Monica Russo won for handbag design, nylon blends, as well as wool offerings. It FINDINGS 241 Elizabeth Street in Manhattan last month. Hiroko Sasaki for costume jewelry, Noriko consists of four bags and three pouches, EPI EVOLVES: It took 18 At 750 square feet, the new space is 250 Sugawara for fine jewelry, Esi Akaah for belts which retail from $35 to $395. years, but Louis Vuitton’s square feet larger. First-year sales projections and Anne Sung for footwear design. The Since it is a design project between the signature Epi grained are about $2 million. Seventeen Award for Emerging Talent went to accessories designer and the home textile leather has finally “Our lease was up in eight months in the old Aram Lee. firm, it was unveiled recently at the softened up. Come store,” Renzi said. “The space next door is an John Hardy, who kept himself busy at the International Contemporary Furniture Fair in September, four amazing space and it’s the center of the block.” reception pinning silver heart pins onto Manhattan. signature Vuitton bags Me & Ro also is launching belts, which are people’s jackets, had some hearty advice for also will be available in a a modern take on Sixties bohemian flower students. “Make what you believe in because KEEP ’EM COMING: Another jewelry store has more supple version of power in tan, brown and red leather with a if you are passionate about it, you will sell it,” hit Manhattan shores. Canadian jeweler the leather. floral buckle. The belts are exclusive to Me & he said. Kaufmann de Suisse has opened a 2,500- A yoga bag called the Louis Vuitton’s Ro’s New York and Miami boutiques and retail square-foot boutique on East 66th Street and “Dhanura” also is being new yoga bag. for $385 to $810. ANDY’S DESIGN PROJECT: Madison Avenue, next door to Bulgari. added. The largest Designer Andy Spade It is the third location for the Montreal- version comes with a yoga mat, quilted with FUTURE DESIGN: The Accessories Council and has just launched a based company, after Palm Beach, Fla., and iconic Vuitton patterns. It retails for about Seventeen magazine teamed up last month to unisex line of Jack Montreal. The new store has white walls and $1,325. Dollar figures have been converted honor the 2003 the Fashion Institute of Spade bags featuring a mauve carpeting, and the display cases have from the euro at current exchange rates. Technology’s graduating class in accessories range of fabrics not limestone touches. A fountain is placed Supple Epi is even getting its own and jewelry design. usually associated with strategically on the selling floor. campaign this fall, which was recently shot in Six awards were handed out and each accessories. “We are trying to slow people down here,” Chile by Jean Lariviere, the original winning student received a check of $1,000. Produced in Jack Spade launched said Charles Kaufmann, vice president of the photographer of Vuitton’s “spirit of travel” The awards were underwritten by Kate Spade, collaboration with bags with Maharam. company. institutional ads. Miriam Haskell, John Hardy, Polo Leathergoods, textile company The jewelry includes 18-karat gold and Cole Haan and Seventeen magazine. Maharam, the collection is made of fabrics diamond offerings, as well as gemstones and ME & RO MOVE: No pun intended, but Me & “We are supporting tomorrow’s designers and patterns by the late modernist architect cuff links for men, with prices ranging from Ro’s new boutique is just a stone’s throw away and stars,” said Sheila Block, the council’s and designer Alexander Girard, which the $3,000 to $20,000. Sales are projected to from the old one. The jewelry label’s design executive director. “Your hard work and New York-based textile company is reach $5 million within a few years. VUITTONBY PHOTO MITCHELLIANNACCONE THOMAS BY RUBEL AND THOMPSON FEINBERG; 15 Innerwear Report MONDAY,WWD, 2003 2, JUNE Advice From Victoria’s Secret By Karyn Monget nesses and some sleepwear companies, and merchants who manage the growth, a we do four collections a year. For every director, a designer, and an associate de- NEW YORK — The graduates of intimate 300 pieces we get into the stores, we signer and a merchant, who help develop apparel design at the Fashion Institute of probably do 1,200 styles every season. and drive the business.” Technology have high hopes for 2003. “There are 80 people working in all de- Currently, the number one selling item With an eye on breaking into the inti- partments of the business who have to be at Victoria’s is the Very Sexy Push-up Bra, mates business at Victoria’s Secret, a cap- responsible for the one vision of the store,” he said. CENTENO TALAYA BY PHOTO sule group of 14 new designers recently said Caleo, noting that it is essential for the One student asked if the panties busi- John Cadeo of Victoria’s Secret. showed their concepts and styles to John creative crew to work in a “very interactive ness has a best-selling style. ers work with technical renderings. Caleo, vice president of design at Victoria’s environment” when working for a retailer. “Our lace tanga is a huge business “It’s been a really great year for us Secret. Caleo, who over the past five years “When you work for a manufacturer, you that no one imagined,” he said. “It start- with some big promotions and assistants has overseen the development of best-sell- can pretty much do what you want.” ed at three units per store to 120 units being named designers,” he added. ing ideas at Victoria’s Secret such as Body However, Caleo said the creative effort per store. It turned into a huge volume Regarding employment opportunities at by Victoria and Very Sexy foundations. is not exclusively in the design arena. business no one suspected.” Victoria’s Secret, Caleo said: “We’re wide “The business is all segmented,” said “We do Santoni [seamless knit] and we Caleo noted that when it comes to fash- open for new entries and we would love to Caleo, at an impromptu show-and-tell do sub-brands that fall into the body labo- ion drawings, the process at Victoria’s have internships along the way. Not every- session at FIT’s intimate apparel design ratory, such as lifestyle, which is almost Secret is split into two areas: senior and body is interested in lingerie, so we are in- room. “Basically, because we produce like having a separate company,” contin- associate designers create and work di- terested in a capsule of the [design] popu- differently than other foundations busi- ued Caleo. “There is a team of designers rectly with drawings, while junior design- lation to intern with us and nourish them.” Escada Leaves Intimate Apparel By Melissa Drier BERLIN — The Escada lin- gerie collection is being dis- continued. The German fashion house and its lingerie licens- ee, Huber Holding AG, based in Gotzif, Austria, have mutu- ally decided to terminate their agreement, ending a two-year run. The collection of eight basic and fashion lines a year, which included bras and coordinating panties, as well as corselettes New York, August 3-4-5 2003 and bodysuits, was produced by Rorschacherberg, Switzerland- th based Hanro, a Huber sub- 135 West 18 Street sidiary. The designer brand was th th introduced at the Salon (between 6 & 7 Avenues) International de la Lingerie in Paris for fall 2001 selling. A spokeswoman for Huber said Hanro said the collection will not be shipped after the spring-summer 2003 season. However, the basics program bearing the Escada name is The Premier Venue in New York still available for reorders. Officials at Escada and Hanro would not give current for Intimates and Swimwear Professionals annual wholesale sales. But in January 2001, a spokesman New and Hipe Intimate Apparel Brands for Hanro said the intimates was projected to generate first-year volume of $12 mil- New Spring Summer 2004 Collections lion worldwide, one-quarter of which was expected to be posted in the U.S. New Fashion Events Contacted at the Hanro USA headquarters in Eaton- New Opening Hours town, N.J., Cindy Kelly, presi- dent of the U.S. operation, said, “The Escada line really was quite successful. But what’s happening now is Sunday: 8:00 AM to 7:00 PM Huber decided the opportu- nity for growth is in its own brands, Hanro and Skiny. Our Monday: 8:00 AM to 7:00 PM target going forward is to fur- ther position Hanro in the U.S. market.” Tuesday: 8:00 AM to 5:00 PM Kelly said Hanro will be launching a lifestyle collec- tion of lightweight silk and wool rib-knits and a blend of silk and wool for fall called Style de Vie. “We are aggressively plan- ning to grow our business in daywear and sleepwear. The CONTACT new lifestyle collection will LINGERIE AMERICAS Inc. feature fabrics that cus- www.lingerie-americas.com tomers know and expect from Tel # 203- 618 0092 Hanro,” said Kelly. Fax # 203- 629 5248 [email protected] — With contributions from Karyn Monget, New York 16 Financial Prada Selling San Francisco Site Weekly Stock Index 52-Week Sales Amt High Low P/E (00’s) Last Change By Diane Dorrans Saeks modernist building and an- commission, but the company’s Broadline Retailers nounced its ambitious plans at a financial woes, a tourism down- 5.28 3.37 Bon-Ton Stores 6.0 620 4.75 0.57 SAN FRANCISCO — Prada has time when the Northern turn after Sept. 11, 2001, and 31.20 12.32 Dillard Dept. 10.9 22972 13.36 0.31 quietly put its 22,500-square-foot California economy was hot and San Francisco’s high tech melt- 42.60 23.51 Federated 10.5 85360 32.50 1.56 retail property here on the mar- tourism was booming. The Milan- down kept the project on hold. WWD, MONDAY, JUNE 2, 2003 WWD, MONDAY, ket. The company acquired 185 based firm commissioned archi- Signs on the hoarding an- 3.58 0.94 Gottschalk’s - 1416 1.50 0.09 Post Street, one block from tect Rem Koolhaas, who designed nouncing Prada’s future opening 25.55 14.07 J.C. Penney 14.3 158939 17.32 0.65 Union Square, for $18.5 million Prada’s SoHo store in New York, were eventually painted over. 35.98 17.81 May Dept. Stores 12.7 65124 21.69 0.94 in 1996 but never developed it. to create a retail-cultural space The company also closed its Jil 14.49 6.66 Saks 20.2 21002 9.38 0.34 “We will list the building un- that would attract theatrical and Sander unit on Maiden Lane. 59.90 18.25 Sears 6.4 193072 29.98 0.57 priced and let buyers make of- literary groups and musicians, as The future of Prada’s tempo- 41.99 24.90 Target 19.4 205959 36.63 3.57 fers,” said a spokesman for well as retail customers. rary retail space on Geary Grubb & Ellis, the brokerage Koolhaas’ proposed plan, a Street has not been disclosed. 4.35 1.48 Value City 290.0 4766 2.97 0.47 firm which has been hired by steel-sheathed structure with Despite Prada’s move, many 58.88 43.72 Wal-Mart 28.4 453972 52.61 0.61 185 Post Street LLC to market round windows, which some said remain optimistic about the fu- and sell the building. looked like a giant cheese grater, ture of Union Square retail. Softline Retailers “This would be one of the best was welcomed by the architec- While Eddie Bauer is reported- 30.07 17.05 Ann Taylor 14.0 39171 25.57 2.54 pieces of real estate in downtown ture and design community who ly closing its large Post Street 1.82 0.55 Bluefly - 13461 1.35 -0.06 San Francisco,” said the realtor. admired its innovative design. operation, Sephora and Hermès “It’s an unbeatable location.” Prada won approval for the are opening new units in the 23.00 15.40 Burlington Coat 10.2 2707 17.05 1.20 Prada bought the six-story project by the city planning Union Square area in June. 8.67 2.70 Charming Shoppes 12.9 13165 4.72 0.54 24.49 13.02 Chico’s FAS 24.4 97341 21.40 0.41 17.50 11.06 Dress Barn 15.6 2226 13.82 0.73 16.00 8.20 Foot Locker 11.6 45011 13.45 0.84 18.03 8.35 Gap 22.7 185797 17.00 0.50 Loehmann’s Net Drops 34.5% 75.99 44.00 Kohl’s 27.0 184259 52.35 1.13 21.84 10.88 Limited Brands 15.7 109449 15.26 1.46 NEW YORK — A weak retail envi- who do not share such exposure].” Costs related to the new 38.83 23.75 Neiman Marcus Group 12.3 5971 34.70 2.05 ronment cut Loehmann’s Holdings The sluggish retail scene, stores contributed to the firm’s 25.23 15.00 Nordstrom 17.1 50672 18.65 1.31 Inc.’s first-quarter profits by a third, though, has produced excess in- 310-basis-point rise in first-quar- 24.45 10.81 Pacific Sunwear 19.7 66801 22.34 1.56 but the off-price retailer hopes to ventory across the sector, and ter selling, general and adminis- 47.77 31.85 Ross Stores 15.4 25607 42.22 2.14 benefit from excess inventory in the Friedman said Loehmann’s is trative expenses, as a percentage 8.40 5.77 Syms - 1261 7.32 0.02 marketplace in upcoming months. Net income sank 34.5 percent 39.64 20.59 Talbots 13.9 9586 28.94 1.99 to $2.8 million, or 37 cents a di- There have been terrific opportunities 21.48 15.30 TJX 17.3 136843 18.20 0.56 luted share, from $4.2 million, or 60 cents, a year ago. “to take advantage of in the marketplace Vendors Sales for the 13 weeks ended 53.85 41.55 Alberto Culver 19.5 7564 51.10 0.72 May 3 dipped 3.2 percent to and hopefully the consumer will return. 60.95 43.49 Avon 25.9 55594 60.94 1.55 $90.4 million from $93.4 million a year ago. Comparable-store — Robert Friedman, Loehmann’s” 22.66 13.65 Cherokee 11.2 964 17.92 1.49 sales fell 7.7 percent. 49.25 17.19 Coach 31.5 45919 49.13 4.44 Loehmann’s joined a chorus 50.31 27.46 Columbia Sptswr 17.8 21257 49.84 3.78 of other retailers who attributed taking advantage of better buy- of sales, to $29.2 million. 38.30 25.20 Estée Lauder 35.7 61678 33.32 -1.45 poor first-quarter results to re- ing opportunities this spring Going forward, Friedman said, 24.61 14.99 Fossil 16.9 8257 22.41 1.91 duced traffic — a product of un- than were available a year ago. “We are obviously cautious about 8.40 4.49 G-III 101.7 647 6.73 0.73 seasonably cool weather, the war Reflecting these opportunities the economy and the retail busi- 99.35 82.53 Gucci 35.1 9797 97.65 0.43 in Iraq and the weak economy. and new stores, the firm’s invento- ness, especially in women’s appar- “Loehmann’s does approxi- ries at the end of the quarter stood el over the next two or three quar- 7.31 3.30 Guess - 4333 5.07 1.07 mately 45 percent of its business in 25.8 percent above year-ago levels. ters, but we are buoyed by the fact 40.39 25.61 Jones Apparel 11.1 58569 29.36 1.21 the Northeast corridor between The 46-store chain opened that there have been terrific op- 32.50 19.70 Kellwood 74.6 13877 30.70 2.06 Connecticut and Washington, three doors during the quarter, portunities to take advantage of in 29.95 16.00 Kenneth Cole 14.3 8219 20.20 0.21 D.C.,” noted chief executive Robert which have performed better than the marketplace and hopefully 34.43 23.55 Liz Claiborne 14.3 32427 33.89 1.57 Friedman in a telephone inter- expected, and closed one. For the the consumer will return, based 12.19 3.40 Mossimo 4.8 4395 3.87 0.27 view. “So the weather had more of rest of the year, Loehmann’s is set on the quality and value of what a negative impact on our sales to cut the ribbon on one more will be in our inventory.” 25.15 14.60 Movado 13.5 1180 22.98 0.31 [than it did with other retailers store and expand two others. — Evan Clark 13.75 8.06 Nautica 16.5 5122 10.55 0.64 40.90 19.50 Oxford 13.7 4025 40.80 3.85 15.99 10.80 Phillips-Van Heusen 15.7 3390 14.11 0.85 26.73 16.49 Polo Ralph Lauren 13.8 17237 26.47 1.23 18.25 8.63 Quiksilver 19.3 14718 16.93 0.53 Finlay, Whitehall Finish Up Tough Quarter 6.17 1.85 Revlon - 2552 2.95 -0.04 20.10 13.14 Russell Corp. 13.4 4213 19.98 0.50 6.50 3.27 Tarrant Apparel - 104 3.60 0.06 NEW YORK — Lower net and comfortable with our previously matic sales drop-off in late 15.71 5.61 Tommy Hilfiger 10.5 25727 8.50 0.72 same-store sales prevented stated guidance of earnings per February and throughout 26.35 4.14 Tropical Sptswr - 3362 5.84 -0.25 Finlay Enterprises and White- share in the range of $2.35 to March, which we believe relat- 43.07 31.50 VF Corp. 10.7 25707 38.07 1.70 hall Jewelers from posting first- $2.45 for the full year.” ed in large measure to the war 14.10 8.80 Warnaco - 52270 12.74 1.06 quarter profits. Last year, Finlay had full- in Iraq and heightened con- For the three months ended year earnings of $2.37 a share. cerns about terrorism.” May 3, Finlay posted a net loss As for the second quarter, Patinkin added that White- Textiles of $1.5 million, or 16 cents a di- Reiner said Finlay anticipates a hall also incurred certain ex- 3.85 1.21 Cone Mills 5.3 808 1.60 -0.02 luted share. That compares with loss per share of between 12 and penses related to the launch of 6.15 1.75 Delta Woodside 12.1 43 3.14 -0.03 last year’s much greater loss of 17 cents on flat comparable- several new sales programs, the 0.10 0.00 Galey & Lord - 120 0.03 0.00 $17.2 million, or $1.78, which, store sales. opening of 16 stores and higher 8.00 2.25 Guilford Mills - 216 6.65 0.91 excluding an accounting change, In the first quarter ended professional fees. would be reduced to a loss of April 30, Whitehall posted a — Dan Burrows 11.47 4.25 Unifi 233.0 23725 6.91 0.95 $33,000, or 0 cents. net loss of $2.7 million, or 19 Sales for the period declined cents a diluted share. By com- fractionally, or 0.6 percent, to parison, the firm recorded Biggest Percentage Changes WWDStock Market Index for Week Ending May 30 $186.2 million from $187.4 mil- profits of $369,000, or 2 cents, For Week Ending May 30 lion last year, and comparable- in the year-ago quarter. Gainers Close Change Composite: 105.28 Broadline Stores: 104.98 Softline Stores: 101.88 store sales slid at the same pace Earnings per share missed the Guess 5.07 26.75 of 0.6 percent. Wall Street consensus estimate Galey & Lord 0.03 20.00 “During these uncertain times by 5 cents. Value City 2.97 18.80 we continue to focus on manag- Sales for the period declined Unifi 6.91 15.94 ing inventory efficiently and con- 7.3 percent to $69.1 million from Guilford Mills 6.65 15.85 2.67 2.49 4.43 trolling operating expenses,” $74.6 million, as same-store Losers Close Change Vendors: 107.65 Textiles: 91.93 said chief executive officer sales dropped 8.7 percent. Bluefly 1.35 -4.26 Arthur Reiner in a statement. In a statement, chief execu- Estée Lauder 33.32 -4.17 Index base of 100 is “Although we are conservative in tive Hugh Patinkin said, “First- Tropical Sptswr 5.84 -4.11 keyed to closing prices our outlook for the near-term, we quarter results were signifi- Revlon 2.95 -1.34 of Dec. 31, 2002. 1.94 4.38 are cautiously optimistic about cantly affected by the economy Cone Mills 1.60 -1.23 the full year. As such, we remain and, more particularly, a dra- 17 with Marchpole. The spokeswoman MONDAY,WWD, 2003 2, JUNE said a women’s wear collection is in the works, but will not debut before BJs Looks to Lower Prices EUROPE WATCH December 2004. — Ellen Burney GUESS WHO’S COMING?: Guess U.S.A. opened its first freestanding store in And Gain Upscale Brands Spain last month, in Madrid’s shop- NOT SO RESERVED: Economic growth who expects net sales of at least $3 heavy Salamanca area. The 2,000- By Katherine Bowers the same period a year ago. rates well above those seen million in the first year, with a 20 square-foot, single-story location Wedge cited a Polo Ralph elsewhere in Europe are giving percent increase annually thereafter. features a new interior concept, said NATICK, Mass. — When Sam’s Lauren shirt hanging at the fashion retailers in Central Europe a The company plans to produce Beatriz Rojo, the store’s manager. Club decides small business cus- Framingham, Mass., store for boost and helping the region’s first between 300,000 and 400,000 “No more red and black,” she said. tomers are its nirvana, what’s a $29.99. “That shirt starts at homegrown brands get off the pieces a year. This is the first Designed by Italy-based architect smaller competitor to do? $52.50 at a department store. ground. Poland’s LPP, trading under license for Diana SpA, which also Massimo Materase, the store Become the consumer club We won’t make the kind of the brand name Reserved, has produces accessories under the Nuti combines a neutral palette of sand of choice, according to BJs margin we make on a [generic] emerged as a leader with pan- label. — Luisa Zargani and beige with washed and lacquered Wholesale Club president and brand but we believe in invest- regional ambitions. The company’s finishes and contemporary texture chief executive Michael Wedge, ing in these products to make casual wear targets the 17- to 27- FINDING FIORUCCI: Fiorucci fans may mixes such as wood, chrome and who laid out steps for reaching sure we have the right quality age bracket with affordable and stop mourning. A few weeks after glass. The new locale carries a full that goal to a smattering of and taste level.” smart designs selling at some 50 Elio Fiorucci’s decision to close his range of Guess women’s, men’s, shareholders at the annual BJs carries Tommy Hilfiger, proprietary outlets in Poland. With store in Milan, the designer is children’s and accessories. Rojo meeting here last week. Polo, Nautica and other brands, their bright and spacious store looking for a new location. declined to give first-year projections The 143-store chain, which focusing mostly on basic styles design, Reserved is a retailer that is “Customers have been calling and but said Guess is scouting additional has its stronghold in the North- and offering merchandise well helping set new standards in this demanding that we reopen,” said Spanish locations. — Barbara Barker eastern U.S., has given itself a ahead of season. A relocated rapidly developing market place. Fiorucci in a phone interview. “And tall order: lower prices while be- staffer now works directly with Reserved expects to open 20 I was unhappy at the thought of WOOLY, MAMMOTH: Horses and coming more upscale in club ap- California manufacturers, cut- additional stores in Poland this year, losing my customers.” sheep usually don’t mix, but Sergio pearance, selection and market- ting out fees paid to jobbers. at a time when competition is As reported, after 36 years in and Pier Luigi Loro Piana brought ing. It’s putting its eggs, essen- The company does not heating up in earnest with business, in July Fiorucci will hand both together for a weekend of sport tially, into the basket of the shop- break out apparel sales. international retailers, such as over its space to the first Hennes & and pride. For the third year in a ping mom, hoping that visually Asked by a shareholder why H&M, entering the market. On the Mauritz store in Italy. row, the brothers behind the Italian pleasing displays and more na- the company lowered its earn- back of this continued expansion Meanwhile, Fiorucci is keeping luxury brand feted some of New tional brands will breed loyalty. ings per share guidance during the company reckons that its busy. He just designed the interior Zealand and Australia’s most prized “We believe we can win its first-quarter conference call, turnover will hit the $100 million of Citroen’s Berlingo model, “Loved wool farmers. with our low-cost expense Wedge said BJs needs to invest mark this year. Beyond Poland, by Fiorucci,” in fluorescent yellow During an intimate dinner at the structure and a much higher capital in lowering sourcing Reserved is now present with 12 and anthracite. — L.Z. Regency Hotel here last week, the taste level,” Wedge said. costs and sharpening prices to outlets in six other Eastern brothers presented Gary and Kay The company, which tallied undercut competitors. European markets, including the MORE PUCCI: Saint Tropez is even Wilson with their 2002 World Wool $5.7 billion in sales in 2002, “We’ve been looking not just Czech Republic, Hungary and more glamorous now, with the Record Challenge Cup. carries more stockkeeping at taking care of threats today, Russia. Over the next two years, opening of a Pucci boutique, The Wilson’s farm in New South units than Sam’s or Costco, but as seen in our declining comp- Reserved wants to triple the number inaugurated Friday. While in line Wales, Australia, cranked out a builds stores that are 10 to 20 store sales trend, but also look- of its international stores to around with its other stores recently opened 207-pound bale of wool that had an percent smaller. These stores ing to the next three years to 35, concentrating mainly on Central in Paris and Florence, the boutique, average measurement of 12.1 are less expensive to construct try to understand what other and Eastern Europe for the designed by Lena Pessoa & microns — or a fiber actually finer and operate, and easier to threats we will face,” he re- foreseeable future. — Poul Larsen Vudafieri Partners, has a local than cashmere. “It’s really about make profitable, the company sponded. “Our 20 to 22 percent atmosphere: lights in aqua tones genetics,” said Gary Wilson, who claims. price advantage against a Wal- PLAYBOY, ITALIAN STYLE: There’s a and a vaulted ceiling, typical of the with three other couples runs the The company’s Kissimmee, Mart Supercenter is probably touch of Italy in the new Playboy city’s cantina-style construction. elite Highlander farm. “Our sheep Fla., store, slated to open in not going to be good enough accessories. Playboy Enterprises This is the ninth Pucci boutique live inside, wear a protective nylon October, will serve as a labora- because you need to pay [a and Diana SpA, based outside worldwide. — L.Z. coat and listen to classical music tory, testing a bevy of new membership fee] to shop BJs. Vicenza, in northeastern Italy, when they are fed,” he joked. member services before You don’t need to pay to shop a signed a five-year licensing BOATENG’S BIG YEAR: Savile Row Loro Piana paid just over $100,000 rolling them out. “We’re look- supercenter.” agreement for production and tailor Ozwald Boateng, known for his for the bale (converted from euros at ing for services that consoli- The company will not enter distribution in the U.S. and Canada punchy colors and funky takes on current exchange). Since a finer lot date errands,” said a spokes- new markets until at least of Playboy bags, belts and small the classics, is set to expand in more has replaced the Highlander bale woman, citing dry-cleaning as 2006, Wedge said. The dozen or leather goods. The line, a spin-off of ways than one. The bespoke men’s this year, it can now go into an example. In the Southeast so clubs expected to open this the men’s magazine, bowed for wear designer who is a favorite with production and will be used to — where competition from year will back-fill existing spring and is distributed in about soccer players and film stars, will create 50 made-to-measure suits. Sam’s Club is intense — BJs New England and Mid-Atlantic 2,000 sales points, such as launch his first signature fragrance The prize, developed by Loro might drop its small business markets. Gadzooks and Hot Topic, retailing in the U.K. this fall. Fall 2003 will Piana to encourage wool farmers to goods altogether in favor of For the first quarter ended between $25 and $60. “There is a also see the opening of his first store push the fineness envelope, is faster-moving consumer items, May 3, BJs net income plummet- huge graphic archive to draw outside the U.K., on Madison awarded each year to farmers from the spokeswoman said. ed 51 percent, to $12.7 million inspiration from and we keep an eye Avenue. A larger retail opening will New Zealand and Australia. The firm already has seen versus the year-ago period. Net on fashion trends, but the logo and follow in Moscow next year, although The following day, the farmers some positives from its strategy. sales rose 15.7 percent over the the Playboy rabbit must always be a spokeswoman for Boateng attended the very blue blood Piazza Apparel, particularly men’s, 2002 quarter to $1.4 billion, visible,” said Federico Nuti, who declined to give further details about Di Sienna equestrian competition at has performed well, tripling while comp sales rose 5.7, fu- owns the company with his sister the stores. Boateng is also in talks the Villa Borghese here. They sipped sales of designer labels from eled mainly by gasoline sales. Ilaria Nuti. The accessories are for a Tokyo unit. Next month, the Bellinis alongside Roman nobility aimed at ages 14 to 25. “There is a designer will launch his first range of and watched Loro Piana’s team great growth potential because it’s a men’s casual wear, to hit Britain in compete in the national jumping universally known label,” said Nuti, July, the result of a licensing deal event. — Courtney Colavita Tariff Plan Deadline Passes Continued from page 2 tion on a range of nonagricultural for north-north trade, north-south products would “lead to greater STATISTICAL SNAPSHOT trade and south-south trade.” reductions in tariff commitments Consumer Attitudes About Buying & Wearing Apparel Similarly, a Japanese statement from developing countries” than said the draft formula became from developed nations. (Men and Women, Ages 18+) counterproductive “by not suffi- Brazil also fears the proposal ciently addressing issues of higher could undermine the principle tariffs in developing countries.” of less-than-full reciprocity in ATTITUDE AGREE DISAGREE The EU’s lead negotiator, Her- tariff reduction for developing Dec. ’02 Aug. ’00 Dec. ’02 Aug. ’00 ve Jouanjean, said Brussels was countries, which was agreed on pleased that the proposal called during the Doha round of talks. I’d rather wear casual clothing than business attire to work. 32% 40% 7% 8% for an end in tariffs on textiles, But the U.S.’s Adams said in I generally wear casual apparel to work. 30% 32% 12% 16% clothing and footwear and that the statement obtained by WWD the proposal called for all WTO that “even some of the poorest I like to have different apparel for different moods and occasions. 25% 28% 11% 9% members to drop tariffs. members are globally competi- My clothes are an expression of who I am. 21% 27% 10% 10% “We attach great importance tive in some of these sectors, to making progress on this ini- and thus believe where they are When I go out at night, I like to dress up. 21% 25% 11% 11% tiative,” he said. competitive, they should also I like to create my own style. 20% 28% 11% 9% However, India and other contribute,” sources said. major developing countries Girard said he still held out I like guidelines for how to dress at work. 10% 12% 26% 31% stressed that the sectoral tariff hope that the issue could be I like to mix expensive items with bargains. 9% 14% 33% 26% elimination should be voluntary raised at the September round I think I’m taken less seriously at work when I dress casually. 7% 9% 29% 32% and kept to a minimum. of talks in Cancún, Mexico, call- India’s statement claimed that ing that event “the big date for I spend a lot of time shopping for clothes. 6% 8% 41% 42% any call for all nations to drop me.” The proposed rollback of NOTE: PERCENTAGES DON’T TOTAL 100; THEY SIMPLY REFLECT THE SHARE WHO “COMPLETELY” AGREED OR DISAGREED. tariffs in specific areas “is tilted tariffs is a separate issue from SOURCE: ROPERASW, BASED ON REPRESENTATIVE SAMPLES OF 1,000 MEN AND WOMEN, AGES 18 AND UP. against developing countries.” the scheduled ending of quotas In a similar vein, Brazil’s state- on textiles and apparel among People’s mind-set about apparel illuminates its shrinking share of wallet: The fewest of those surveyed, or 6 percent, ment argued that tariff elimina- WTO members on Dec. 31, 2004. spend a lot of time apparel shopping, down from 8 percent two years earlier. 1 8

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and officeduties.CallSusan:212-391-2370 Fax resumeto212-221-4399Attn:Eric Office Assistant-P/T Leading IntimateApparelco.seeking individual forlightbookkeeping,phones Textile DesignStudioseeksversatile nnilysrn opn a nex- an has company strong inancially Fax resumetoRobert(718)649-9474 Fax resumeandsalaryrequirements E-mail [email protected] Production Assistant s.Koldeo hns language, Chinese of Knowledge sst. QUIKSILVER/ROXY Production Manager fe eia,dna,lf,and life, dental, medical, offer e Knitwear Production Purchasing/Production/to $55k+ PATTERNMAKER/ [email protected] FaxResumeto:212921-5064 Fax resumeto:212-382-3623 to Attn:Rosie212-481-7498 or e-mailerics@ca Call Sionat(718)382-1777 Store Manager MARKERS Design Associate Manager Cad Artist Oilily y re.com y 1 f / 19 Guess Issues Soar Tata Naka’s Free Association MONDAY,WWD, 2003 2, JUNE Continued from page 3 huge part of our own memories rent exchange rates. As CEO Ups Stake twin to design the other half of from childhood.” As well as designing two col- the collection has its advantages. The fall collection was in- lections a year, Tamara and NEW YORK — Shares of Guess Inc. skyrocketed on Friday “Because we have similar spired by “Life: A User’s Natasha launched a baby and after co-chief executive officer Paul Marciano fractionally tastes, we usually come up with Manual,” by Georges Perec. children’s wear line last winter increased his stake in the Los Angeles-based lifestyle brand. the same concepts and ideas, but Based on an apartment block in called Tata Naka Shrunk. The According to a filing with the Securities and Exchange our styles can be different,” Paris, the book is about the vari- line is an exact miniature repli- Commission, Marciano acquired 200,000 shares of Guess Natasha said. “Our research is al- ety of people living under one ca of the mainline collection, common stock for $800,000, or $4 a share. That increased ways the same, though.” roof, the many faces of which are down to the detail, appliqué and his stake in the firm to 13.2 million shares, or 30.6 percent The spring 2003 collection referenced in the eclectic collec- all. Prices range from $100 for a of the shares outstanding. Previously, he held 13 million was inspired by a Russian film, tion with elements of sport, rap halter top to $530 for a parka. shares, or 30.1 percent. translated as “Cranks,” which is and prep. Key items include mint There’s also an accessories line The purchase, however, still leaves Marciano as Guess’ about an eccentric man writing a jacquard parkas, oversize of bags, shoes and belts and a second-largest shareholder after his brother, co-ceo formula for love. He builds a fly- jumpers, pink lace skirts and gray made-to-order homewear collec- Maurice Marciano, who owns 17 million shares, or 39.6 ing machine and falls in love jersey sweatshirts with colored tion of handmade bedspreads. percent, of the company. with a girl named Margarita, and diagonal zips. Clusters of Soviet Tata Naka lingerie is sched- At the end of Friday’s New York Stock Exchange session, somewhere along the line, medals and antique broaches uled for next summer and a shop Guess shares added 96 cents, or 23.4 percent, to close at leaves a chicken behind. adorn the waistbands of skirts is also on the cards, set to open in $5.07, making Paul Marciano’s company holdings worth Colorful images of Margarita and necklines of slouchy tops. Chelsea’s Brompton Cross dis- $66.9 million, and Maurice Marciano’s worth $86.5 million. with a bow in her hair, the air- “These are like pieces of life, trict alongside Chanel, Paul & Meanwhile, as reported, Paul and Maurice’s brother plane and even the chicken were from another time that meant Joe and Joseph stores. Armand Marciano, formerly senior executive vice president sketched in a childlike manner something to someone,” said In developing their brand, of the firm, has sold more than 1.4 million Guess shares and appliquéd and embellished Tamara. the sisters claim to have discov- since the beginning of December 2002, including 1 million with sequins and lace on pastel Tata Naka’s annual volume is ered the rule of a happy work- that were purchased by Maurice. The divestitures have led silk chiffon dresses, full floor- about $2.5 million. Retail prices ing twin relationship: fashion some observers to speculate that Armand, who resigned length skirts and cotton draw- for the collection, which is man- boundaries. from the firm’s board in December 2001, wants to cash out of string pants. ufactured in the U.K., range “We have rules about what we the company. As of May 19, Armand Marciano still held 5 “The collection is incredibly from around $300 for a zipped T- can borrow from each other and million shares, or 11.6 percent of the company’s stock. aesthetic,” said Natasha. “It’s shirt to $1,300 for a jacquard what we can’t,” said Tamara. about the surreal and crazy parka. Dollar figures have been “Most clothing is fine, but we — Dan Burrows things you do for love, it’s also a converted from the pound at cur- never borrow each other’s shoes.”

SHIPPING COORDINATOR ROSETTI HANDBAGS Super Sales Account Large clothing mfg in Kearny, NJ seeks energetic person to prepare ship- RARE OPPORTUNITY Exec Opportunity ping documentation based on combin- Actively seeking professional sales ing information provided by sales & person to sell & service established An aggressive, fast growing Manhat- production depts. 3 yrs experience in mass market account. Experienced in tan based Top Trend merchandising industry required. Computer knowl- the following: company seeks a Sales & Marketing edge & good communication skills a Private Label Sales 1) Mass market or dept store sales Manager with 3-5 years experience. must. Exc. opportunity for right candi- Established importer with broad and deep capabilities in 2) Retail & math planning The company’s focus is in branded / SENIOR RETAIL date. Fax resume & salary rqds to: 3) Ability to project stock levels, gross contemporary licensed hard lines & Mr. Benson 201-246-9029 ladies’ sportswear seeks an experienced seller / merchandiser margin & sales accessory products. Fashion aspect of the business lends itself to consistently PLANNER to develop new private label business. The ideal candidate 4) Domestic travel fresh and exciting product. SPEC TECH will have strongcontacts in the dept store / specialty store / 5) Excellent P/C skills (Excel) PLUGG, a leader in Young Ladies dress & sportswear co seeks 6) Industry background The position will report directly to the Mens/Boys and Juniors/Girls individual w/min. 3 yrs experience. catalogmarketingchannels. Demonstrated product develop- Fax resume to: 212-279-3224 Head of Sales and will include the Technical garment construction ment and business development skills are essential. We are a management of existing accounts, sportswear is seekinga w knowledge, especially silk chiffon bias Sales $100-120K ++. Current exp. in boys expansion and opening of both ne highly qualified individual to dresses A MUST. Experience with flexible and highly entrepreneurial Hong Kong based compa- accounts and entirely new channels of sportswear selling to Wal-Mart or Target or distribution. join our team in a newly fittings, grading specs, and e-mailing ny with strongfinancial and operational capability. We are Federated or Mayco. or Mid-tier stores. created position of Senior comments overseas is required. Excel West 33rd. Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Agcy56 and Word knowledge also needed. offeringan outstandingopportunity for the dynamic self- The candidate should have enthusi- Retail Planner. Fax resume to Jeff at 212-471-8024 or starter who can help us unlock the value in our infrastructure. asm, be a self-starter/ team player and [email protected] SALES EXECUTIVES willing to work in a fast moving and This is an excellent opportunity E-mail resume in strict confidence to: casual environment. Candidate should for a take charge type of Accessory co seeks showroom Sales be flexible and willing to travel as [email protected] Exec and/or road reps. Wholesale exp necessary. Salary and benefits to be person to work with the sales in home furnishings/domestics or costume competitive. team and key retail accounts Spec Technicians (2) jewelry req’d. Benefits/salary/comm. Mjr Women’s Sptswr Mfr. Immed Hire. Email resume & sal req: [email protected] to maximize growth and prof- Apparel Staffing, Ltd. Fax (212) 302-1161 ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE/ Please fax all resumes to 646-638-1242 itability. Qualified candidate MERCHANDISER LA PERLA Attn: Head of Sales must have 5+ years experi- SALES - Handbags Technical Design (2) $50-65K 2 Positions-Handbag and Diaper Bag Salesperson/Merchandiser Established importer of popular priced ence in planningwith prior Kids & womens. Knits/wovens. Comp. skills Seeking highly motivated individual handbags seeking experienced sales Jennifer*Just Mgmt. * 800-544-5878 Leading, high-end hand-bag company experience workingwith [email protected] w/ good communication and computer person. Must be highly motivated, dept. stores in apparel. is currently seeking two sales reps/ skills. Swimwear & Lingerie sales strong organizational and detail skills, merchandisers for our NY office. Must background a plus. active accounts available. Stronganalytical ability and have a minimum of 5 years exp with ei- Fax resume to: (212) 459-3413 Please fax resume to (212) 629-3123 TECHNICAL DESIGNER ther diaper bags or hand bags. Some computer proficiency are Intimate apparel company seeks travel required. We offer a great com- Sales $ High Open. Current exp. in essential. Excellent interperso- Technical Designer experienced in pensation along with an excellent pattern making and draping, garment LUNAIRE extreme sport or activewear. Mens or nal and communication skills work environment. womens or kids OK. Must hang construction, fitting, technical sketching Email/Fax resumes to: Jewelry Rep / L.A. are a must. Salary based and spec writing. Account Executive w/ Northface, Columbia, Burton, [email protected] or fax to: 732-345-0984 Bilibong, Quicksilver, etc. Very hot Co. NY Designer seeks exp’d sales rep for upon experience. Please fax resume to (978) 462-4280 or Are you born to sell? Intimates Co. contemporary silver/leather line. Must email to [email protected] seeks AE with a passion for sales. Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agcy Please forward resumes to Must be comp. lit. w/ good comm. have L.A. contacts. 917-520-6684. Account Executive skills. Travel req’d. Int. apparel exp. [email protected] or fax to pref’d but not nec. Email your pitch: 212-840-6714, Attn: Terri. Well Established sportswear company [email protected] Technical Designer seeks an energetic sales professional Swimwear manufacturer seeks F/T with following in Junior, Missy, and/or Senior Sales Forecasting/ Tech Designer with min. 3 yrs. exp. in Plus size. We offer a great salary plus Retail Planner swim or intimates. Must be able to in- commission and a fun work environ- Sales Manager ment. Fax resumes to: 212-768-9058 Manhattan Beachwear Fast paced costume jewelry company terpret design sketches into complete package for overseas production. Re- SALES OPPORTUNITY/N.Y. BASED (Corporate) seeks retail planner to manage replen- Seeking an experienced professional ishments forecasting, perform weekly sponsible for following garment from Leading swimwear Co. has an excellent development through production. Independent Sales Reps opportunity for a highly motivated and to manage & grow business to the next retail sales analysis and keep us in- level in our Miami corporate office. ***APPAREL EMPLOYERS *** stock and delivering on time. 4+ years Patternmaking skills, knowledge of Radiant Group dynamic Sales Executive to handle major Do you need exp’d DESIGNERS, PRODUC- garment construction and graded Dept. and Specialty store accounts. Must Qualified candidate must be detail & experience required, experience with Leading apparel mfg in China seeks pro- results-oriented w/ excellent communi- TION, ACCOUNTING, TECHNICAL etc. staff? mass merchants a plus, great organiza- specs required. Knowledge of Excel, Il- fessional Sales Reps throughout US & be a team player, detail oriented and **CALL 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agcy.** lustrator, and comparable software al- have excellent working relationships cation (written & verbal), organization- tional and communication skills a Canada with dept. stores / private label al, & computer skills. Travel required. so necessary. Salary commensurate background. High commission offered. with major stores. Fax or email resume: must. We offer a great environment (323) 887-1838 Please send resume and salary require- and competitive salary. with experience. Visit www.radiantdevp.com Fax resume to: 212-840-3318 and contact radiantdevp@ [email protected] ments to fax: 305-253-1286 / email: Please fax resume to (212) 764-6026. yahoo.com [email protected] Sales $$ open. Current exp in selling branded sweaters to specialty or dept. stores or mid-tier stores. Midown co. Production Pro Seeks Change Call 973-564-9236. Jaral Fashion Agcy A to Z - Dominican Republic; Mexico; Sales $ Open. Current exp. in womens Russia; Leave message @ 201-894-8754 better casual sportswear. Selling to catalogs or dept stores or JCPenney or SOURCING PROBLEMS? specialty stores. Call 973-564-9236 Agcy Global sourcing professional with 14 years experience, interested in new SALES REP opportunity with stable company. Exclusive Women’s Wear Italian Designer Expertise in budget and moderate, Collection launching in USA Spring wovens and knits. Experienced 2004 seeking est’d. Sales Rep w/min. 5 manager. Excellent factory contacts. yrs. exp. Est’d. relations with high-end Email [email protected] specialty retail & department stores Talented, experienced designer seeking and ability to travel a must. Looking to Part-time or full-time position. Complete fill position immediately. Fax / Email to: knowledge of specing, sketching, forecast- 305-668-7105 ing trend/colors and CAD design. Call or [email protected] E-mail: 914-665-6713 / [email protected] 20 Janet had Michael to Solange Knowles Big Sis: Beyoncé thank, but the Age: 16 Jacksons aren’t the eye® Home Base: Houston Rising Signs: Her recently released debut album, “Solo Star,” features Hey only multitalented tracks produced by the Neptunes and Beyoncé herself, and “Naïve,” family around. Some of today’s a sisterly duet. Dynamic DNA: Solange will take the stage with her famous sister in biggest young pop stars have Detroit on June 14 during the live broadcast of “Beyoncé Knowles, paved the way for their talented Friends & Family,” a concert to celebrate the Ford Motor Co.’s 100th anniversary. siblings. Thing is, those little Crush: Yes, she has a boyfriend, but we can’t say who. WWD, MONDAY, JUNE 2, 2003 WWD, MONDAY, Little sisters aren’t so little anymore. Sweet or Salty?: Cheetos is her favorite snack. Sidekick: Shuggie, a miniature chihuahua. This new school bunch is ready She’s Feeling: Coldplay, Incubus and Aretha Franklin. to climb the charts and set the Diva Alert: While friends say Beyoncé is sweet and innocent, Solange is straight forward. She knows what she wants and she’s not afraid to fashion world spinning with a ask for it. Sister style all their own. Look: Fifties-style flirtatious. She’s into full skirts and high heels, but also loves bright sneakers. Is currently on the prowl for a splashy new pair of Vans. Jamie Lynn Spears Big Sis: Britney Dannii Minogue Age: 12. Will join the cheerleading squad, Big Sis: Kylie basketball team and softball team as a seventh Age: 31 grader at Park Lane Academy in Mississippi. Home Base: London Dynamic DNA: Played a young Britney in teen Dynamic DNA: An flick “Crossroads” and had a cameo in Aussie sensation in Britney’s Pepsi commercial. the late Eighties, she Rising Signs: Joined the cast of Nickelodeon’s gained fame as a TV “All That,” a miniature “Saturday Night show host and soap Live,” last year. According to her brother opera star before re- Bryan Spears, acting is her true calling. “She leasing her debut has a great comedic flair. She won’t be album in 1990. entering the pop world.” “Neon Nights,” her Crush: Will Smith fourth pop/dance Sweet or Salty?: Pizza album, was recently Sidekick: Izzie, her Pomeranian. released in London, Famous Last Words: “I wanna be like Britney, and is zipping up the but maybe better — but I don’t wanna club charts there. outshine her!” she told Oprah Winfrey. New York’s own Look: Capri pants and newsboy caps, but is a 102.7 FM honors jeans and T-shirts kind of girl at heart. Minogue requests. Fountain of Youth: A Ashlee Simpson big fan of Tae Bo Big Sis: Jessica and Botox, Dannii Age: 18 keeps her diet Home Base: Los Angeles wheat- and dairy- Rising Signs: Currently free. recording her first album, Sidekicks: Her cats, but already has over 50 Web Floyd and Rabbit. sites devoted to her. Look: Sexy clubkid at Dynamic DNA: The Dallas na- heart. Likes Dolce & tive attended School of Gabbana, Boyd and Mónica Cruz American Ballet before Gharani Strok. Her Big Sis: Penélope dancing professionally on off-duty gear in- Age: 26 her sister’s tour. Landed a cludes Earl Jeans, Home Base: Madrid starring role on the WB’s Replay and Juicy Rising Signs: In Spain, Monica is becoming muy “7th Heaven” in 2002. Also Couture. A former famosa. She stars in TV’s “A Step Forward,” a appeared in “The Hot Chick” fashion designer, she Spanish style “Fame,” and is currently touring with and costars in the upcoming had a kiddie clothing her band, UPA Dance. She’ll make her film debut op- “Standing Still” with James line in Australia, posite Patrick Swayze in “Camino Flamenco.” Van Der Beek. called Dannii, and Dynamic DNA: Both Cruz sisters trained as dancers, Look: Knows how to work later a clubwear line with Penélope studying ballet and Monica flamenco, vintage. in England. before kicking off their acting careers.

ROAD SHOW: Old fans, new fans and Dayssi Hilary Alexander those seeking an audience with Olarte de Dick in McQueen inspects Earlier in the day, Nathalie Alexander McQueen turned up at Kaplan and Kalliope Karella sat Kanavos Calvin Lillian von his boutique Thursday evening for bent over a Christie’s jewelry Stauffenberg’s the designer’s first New York Klein. Stauffenberg’s catalog as members of the trunk show. The most serious corset. Valentino cult, including Jennifer shoppers hardly noticed when Creel, Dayssi Olarte de Kanavos McQueen entered the shop and and Tara Rockefeller, arrived at made for the stock room. But the auction house for a luncheon when the notoriously shy designer and fashion show to kick off the emerged, he was cornered in the jewelry sale. dressing room by Lillian von “I’ve found a very big Stauffenberg, Renee Rockefeller diamond,” Karella announced. and Helen Schifter, all gussied up No doubt. in his fashions. McQueen beat a At lunchtime on Wednesday, quick retreat to the stock room Carolina Daryl those Memorial Sloan-Kettering again, then sailed out of the shop Zapf at Kerrigan philanthropists Eugenie Niven, after clocking a full 20 minutes on Christie’s Tory Burch, Anne Grauso, Hilary the sales floor. . Dick and Alexis Waller were at it “He’s so British,” said Schifter. again. This time, Calvin Klein “He kept telling me it needed hosted an elegant lunch and to be tighter,” said von fashion show, putting in a quick Stauffenberg, examining her appearance at his Madison McQueen corset. Avenue boutique and topping it But if McQueen himself all off with a $20,000 donation to couldn’t bear to stay, local fashion the cancer center. types made the sales for him. But Muffie Potter Aston “He’s one of our real talents,” recalled meeting Niven, the Daryl Kerrigan proclaimed. “He’s associate committee’s chairman, to be cherished.” at a decidedly less venerable With designer Bryan Bradley at Nathalie event — a wild high school party a Tuleh trunk show in Dallas, Kaplan and thrown by her 14-year-old Amanda Cutter, the label’s Renee stepdaughter. “I was 26 and creative director, snuck out in Rockefeller married to my first husband,” said McQueen. “Tuleh is not a cult!” at Christie’s. Aston. “We’ve all come a long way she reported. since then.” CALVIN KLEIN AND VALENTINO LUNCHES BY ROBERT MITRA; MCQUEEN BY STEVE EICHNER; LITTLE SISTERS BY WIRE IMAGE WIRE BY LITTLESISTERS EICHNER; STEVE BY MCQUEEN MITRA; ROBERT BY LUNCHES VALENTINO AND KLEIN CALVIN