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Galliano's New Digs 4th Annual WOMEN’S DRIVES COLE HAAN/14 GOOD TO GROW/2 AwardsCFDA Preview FashionInside: WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’MONDAY Daily Newspaper • June 2, 2003 Vol. 185, No. 110 $2.00 Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear Galliano’s New Digs PARIS — “The clothes have waited to be shown like this for a long time,” John Galliano said of his new, 1,700-square-foot store, which opened here last week and is his first in the world. Galliano describes the space as “high tech romance” for its completely see-through design, plasma screens and silver mannequins. For more on the store and the designer, see page 6. PHOTO BY PHOTO STEPHANEBY FEUGERE 2 Luxe Retailers Get Pragmatic WWDMONDAY Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear By David Moin Chanel or Dolce & Gabbana’s the rate of consumer spending growing D&G line. says slow down. Private compa- NEWYORK — Beyond the chic An expansion-minded Calvin nies such as Chanel and Ferra- GENERAL limestone facades and Italian Klein, with new owner Phillips- gamo are already taking cautious FASHION: Resort is all about showing a little — or a lot — of leg, as ONDAY, JUNE 2, 2003 ONDAY, marble selling floors, difficult Van Heusen, is pushing his jeans retail routes. Yet any retailing 4 designers show off gams with colorful dresses and cool skirts. M , decisions are being made in the collection. He’s scouting sites for a strategy must adapt in an age of Everything about John Galliano’s first store, located in Paris, is generating D back offices of designer retail Calvin Klein Jeans store in Paris economic uncertainty. 6 buzz, even the bathroom and its embroidered wall panels. W operations. and opening others this summer “It’s called full-court press W Call it a new restraint. Call it and fall in Hong Kong and Seville time,” said Arie Kopelman, pres- With the weak economy and luxury sales sagging, designer retailing has pragmatism. For many upscale and Marbella, Spain, following the ident of Chanel Inc. 2 become a tougher proposition. Here’s how brands are adapting. brands that waged store expan- recent openings in Amsterdam, For some designer stores, time Prada has quietly put its 22,500-square-foot retail property at 185 Post sions in the Nineties, both Moscow, Sydney, Melbourne and has expired. Tommy Hilfiger re- 16 Street, a block from Union Square in San Francisco, on the market. American and European, it’s Chongquing in China. cently decided to close 38 spe- time to cut the losses and rein in With the world’s luxury sales cialty stores, and earlier closed EYE: Little sisters get into the act; partying around town with Alexander the real estate, press for higher slipping, designer brands are its glitzy flagships in London and 20 McQueen and Calvin Klein, and searching for baubles at Christie’s. productivities, market locally — reaching for business outside the on Rodeo Drive. The Beverly New Waves, the Council of Fashion Designers of America’s 4th Annual and less so to the slumping core ready-to-wear collections Hills site got swooped up by Fashion Awards preview, is included in this issue. tourist trade — and stock up on that have long been their founda- Brooks Bros. about a month ago. items and categories that appeal tions. Product diversification and However, at Polo/Ralph Lauren, Classified Advertisements ..................................................................18-19 to wider demographics. Most new ideas are critical. So is retail “We are bullish over the long term To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is often, those wider demographics expansion, particularly for public on vertical retail,” said Roger [email protected], using the individual's name. spell accessories, shoes and companies pushed by Wall Farah, president and chief oper- SUBSCRIPTION RATES U.S. and possessions, Retailer, daily one year, $99; Manufacturer, daily one year, $135. lower-priced, sportier items like Street’s lust for growth, like ating officer. He acknowledged All others U.S., daily one year $195. Canada/Mexico, daily one year, $295. All other foreign (Air Speed), daily one year $595. Polo’s Blue Label bridge line, Polo/Ralph Lauren and LVMH- that, “in the short run, the market Please allow 6-8 weeks for service to start. Individual subscription information/Single Copy Sales : (800) 289-0273; outside U.S. (818) 487-4526; new group subscription information 212-630-4196 Karl Lagerfeld’s ski parkas for owned Donna Karan, even when Continued on page 10 Postmaster: Send address changes to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. WWD (ISSN #0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue every month except July, and two additional issues in April and August, by Fairchild Publications, Inc. a subsidiary of Advance Publications Inc., 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001-8191. WWD is a registered trademark of Fairchild Publications Inc.© 2003 by Fairchild Publications Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications Inc. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying or recording, or by any information storage or retrieval system, except as may be expressly permitted in writing by the copyright owner. Editorial Reprints: (212) 221-9595 D&G Scores $1.1M at Shows Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and other offices. Mailed under Publications Mail Sales Agreement No. 517054. Canada Post Returns to: P.O.Box 1632, Windsor, ON N9A 7C9 GST # 88654-9096-RM 0001 Canada Publications Agreement # 40032712 This type of special attention in the form of seat- Printed in the U.S.A. By Rosemary Feitelberg All signed articles published in the paper represent solely the individual opinion of the writer and not those of ed fashion shows is something Dolce & Gabbana WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY. NEWYORK — Instead of staging a typical trunk plans to carry out in all its freestanding stores. For Web site access, log on and subscribe to www.WWD.com. show, Dolce & Gabbana flew in some one-of-a-kind Thus far, it has worked well to get women to make pieces and runway looks for some “serious preorders,” fashion shows at its Madison Forte said. MONDAY: 2003 CFDA Fashion Awards, New York Avenue and Los Angeles stores “Usually at this time of year, New York women’s resort apparel market (through last month. we preview new arrivals. But June 13). The unusual approach ap- this year, we felt we needed to parently worked, because the do a more specialized atmos- WEDNESDAY: Neiman Marcus Group reports third- collection pulled in a com- phere,” she said. “Many women quarter earnings. bined $1.1 million in sales. are used to looking at clothes Women are more interested on a rack, and they don’t come THURSDAY: Tommy Hilfiger Corp. reports fourth- in learning about shapes and to Italy for our show.” quarter earnings. fabrics, said Gabriella Forte, And sometimes the ones Retailers report sales results for May. the company’s U.S. president, who do are put off by the run- noting that’s not something way looks. “We wanted to show FRIDAY: The Labor Department releases the employ- that always resonates while ri- them the collection is very ment report for May. fling through a trunk show. wearable and can be mixed Wal-Mart Stores annual meeting, Fayetteville, Ark. How else would attendees and matched in many ways,” Chicago Apparel Center’s fall II market (through know the “piece of Pop Art was Forte said. “We’re always cater- June 9). actually a fake Mongolian jack- ing to the customer.” Los Angeles fall II market week at the California et with fur trim and a floral lin- As soon as the show closed, Market Center and The New Mart (through June 10). ing, and is ideal for anyone guests garnered special atten- The Annex by Designers & Agents trade show, Los with a schizophrenic attitude tion from sales associates who Angeles (through June 9). toward art and fashion?” had been waiting in the wings. Chibidue and Chibimart jewelry and accessories Stefano Galli, worldwide Even with that extra push, a show, Milan (through June 9). fashion coordinator who flew Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana few attendees left with only in from Italy for the event, said, “What you’re see- the goody bag from Dylan’s Candy Bar. COMING THISSATURDAY: WEEK Vicenzo Oro 2 jewelry show, Vicenzo, Italy ing now is not falling apart. It’s the evolution of the When one shopper’s interest was piqued by an (through June 12). bomber jacket,” referring to a leather number with outfit, a saleswoman said, “That’s coming. But you sleeves and a hem that can be zipped off. can’t have it now.” In Brief WTO Tariff-Dropping Plan Gains Little Support ● SANTO RESPONDS: Italian financial magazine Il Mondo has spurred Santo Versace, president of Gianni Versace SpA, to write the publication threatening legal action. That letter was backed up By John Zarocostas tariffs, as well as the elimination was not ambitious enough.” by one from the company’s auditors. An article, published Friday, of other trade barriers, senior Supachai Panitchpakdi, WTO stated that Versace’s auditors will not approve its business plan and GENEVA — The proposal to fur- trade diplomats said. director general, expressed dis- are worried the company’s results have stalled. It also said the ther liberalize global trade by Saturday had been set as a appointment that governments three auditors were concerned that Versace’s general director post dropping tariffs on industrial deadline for developing a frame- had not been able to meet the remained vacant after Giovanni Galbiati left in March, and they be- goods met with little support, work for discussing the issue.
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