Yúnnán Province (China) 云南 YÚNNÁN PROVINCE (CHINA)
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447 © Lonely Planet Publications Yúnnán Province (China) 云南 YÚNNÁN PROVINCE (CHINA) YÚNNÁN PROVINCE (CHINA) RICHARD I’ANSON 448 Yúnnán Province (China) 云南 ‘The mountains are high and the emperor is far away.’ So goes a Chinese proverb, which well describes this diverse province so far removed from the comparative monoculture prevailing in many other parts of China. A liminal zone in the truest sense, Yúnnán is a land of fusion where hybrids of faith and culture coexist, offering the traveller a plethora of experiences, the likes of which you’ll not find elsewhere in either Southeast Asia or the Middle Kingdom. For the spiritual traveller, Yúnnán is a place where you can drink yak-butter tea with monks on the grounds of a sacred Tibetan monastery and view Buddhist frescos in temples reminiscent of those found hundreds of kilometres south in Thailand. To the naturalist, the province offers a stunning variety of ecological zones, from the high peaks and rarefied Himalayan air of the northwest to the rolling green hills of Xīshuāngbǎnnà and the near-sea- level jungles in the southeast. And for those more interested in staying on the beaten path, Yúnnán is where you’ll find some of the most oft-visited spots in southern China – touristy, no doubt, but still infused with charm and even a little magic. For readers of this book, which is, after all, devoted to following the tribes and nations connected by the mighty Mekong, a trip to Yúnnán is an indispensable way to truly get to know the river’s character. Though born in the frigid highlands of Tibet, it’s through these lands that the Mekong (Láncāng Jiāng in Chinese) passes from childhood into adolescence, winding and warming slowly under the Yúnnán sun as it passes through gorges and canyons before exiting to the south into the sweltering jungles of Laos, Cambodia and Vietnam. As diverse and defiant of labels as the people who call her home, Yúnnán is where the Middle Kingdom meets – and merges – with Southeast Asia. FAST FACTS Area 394,000 sq km Capital Kūnmíng Country Code%86 Population 44.8 million Money US$1 = Y6.83 (yuan) Seasons high May-September & all national holidays; rainy May-September (especially June-August) Phrases nǐ hǎo 你好 (hello), zàijiàn 再见 (goodbye), xièxie 谢谢 (thank you) YÚNNÁN PROVINCE (CHINA) YÚNNÁN PROVINCE (CHINA) lonelyplanet.com YÚNNÁN PROVINCE (CHINA) •• Highlights 449 HIGHLIGHTS before moving on to Lìjiāng ( p473 ) for Shāxī ( p471 ) Live in a traditional Bai a day or three of chilling in the old town valley village and hike the surrounding and cycling in the countryside. From here, mountains. head south to Dàlǐ ( p467 ) for a few days of Xīshuāngbǎnnà ( p458 ) Experience tribal slacking among backpackers before mov- life and trek through dense jungle. ing on to Kūnmíng ( p452 ), where you’ll Lìjiāng’s old town ( p475 ) Feel like a charac- want to experience the creature comforts ter out of Romance of the Three Kingdoms and culture of the provincial capital and in these cobbled lanes. ditch your winter coat and long johns Shangri-la ( p480 ) Stroll among yaks and (mailing them back home is a definite op- beneath Tibetan prayer flags in Shangri- tion). From Kūnmíng, it’s an overnight la’s rarefied mountain air. bus to Xīshuāngbǎnnà ( p458 ) for a week Tiger Leaping Gorge ( p478 ) Hike the high to 10 days of tribal living and jungle trek- and low trails of China’s still-spectacular king in the warmth and dry of southern gorge. Yúnnán in early January. ITINERARIES CLIMATE & WHEN TO GO 10 days (Tribal Trek) China’s most ethni- Varied topography and altitude make this cally diverse province offers myriad op- Tropic of Cancer–straddling province a portunities to experience the hospitality veritable wealth of weather. Yúnnán’s south- of many of the tribal groups that make ern lowlands, especially Xīshuāngbǎnnà, are up around a third of Yúnnán’s popu- tropical nearly year-round, offering a rainy lation. Begin in Kūnmíng with a few season from May to October and a dry season hours at the Yúnnán Provincial Mu- from November to May. Winters (December seum ( p454 ) to get a grasp on the eth- to February) are mild and dry, and sum- nic diversity of the province. Next head mers hot and humid; daily summer rains are down to Xīshuāngbǎnnà ( p458 ), where usually intense and drenching rather than you can trek in dense jungle and visit all-day affairs. the villages of Dai, Yi, Lahu and Bulang. As you head north to northwest through You could easily spend the full 10 days the province, the altitude increases with lati- in Xīshuāngbǎnnà, otherwise head back tude, meaning increasingly colder and longer north and visit the valley of Shāxī ( p471 ), winters. Shangri-la in early December is just where you’ll experience the hospitality of entering winter hibernation, so you’ll see the Bai people beneath the unparalleled cheaper hotel rooms and far less crowded beauty of the Stone Treasure Mountains. streets; by the time January rolls around From Shāxī head north again to Lìjiāng some restaurants are shuttered. If you plan ( p473 ), using the heavily touristy town as on travelling anywhere north of Dàlǐ from a base from which to explore the area’s mid-November to April, you’ll want to bring surrounding Naxi settlements. a good jacket (though you might not wear it 20 days (South for the Winter) Preparing every day). yourself for the high, cool and dry condi- tions, begin your trek in early December HISTORY at the furthest point north in this chapter, The mountains’ elevation and remoteness Shangri-la ( p480 ), where you’ll experi- from the ruling monarchy have been major ence the beauty and mystery of the an- cient town and surrounding area. Hike YÚNNÁN PROVINCE (CHINA) amongst fluttering prayer flags in the YÚNNÁN INDEX surrounding hills, visit the Ganden Sumt- seling Monastery ( p483 ; far less crowded Steamed bun Y0.50 with tourists at this time of year), drink 500ml bottle of water at a shop Y5 yak-butter tea with monks and soak away the cold at the amazing Stone Bridge Hot Dali beer Y10 Springs ( p483 ). After three or four days, Souvenir T-shirt Y40 head south for a one- to two-day hike Hotel room with air-con Y80-200 through Tiger Leaping Gorge ( p478 ) 450 YÚNNÁN PROVINCE (CHINA) •• History lonelyplanet.com 0 200 km YÚNNÁN 0 120 miles To Markam To L¨táng (130km); (50km); Lhasa Xiƒngchéng Chéngd¥ (760km) (1100km) Luzhou Derong 108 TIBET Kawa SÌCHU„N Yíb¸n Karpo (6740m) Déq¸n Dhondrupling Gompa B‰nzìlán Bingzhongluo Baima Mountains Jiƒng) Shangri-la Lúg¥ Xichang Valley Gòngshƒn Hú g Tiger n u Leaping r (J¸nshƒ Putao D W‰ix¸ Gorge Nujiang Valley Nínglàng ZhƒotŸng Bijie W‰iníng To Guìyáng Fúgòng Lìjiƒng GUÌZH±U (5km) 213 Liupanshui Jiànchuƒn Hèqìng Pƒnzh¸huƒ Xianwei J¸zú Shƒn (Jinjiang) Shƒx¸ (3240m) Anshun ha River DŸngchuƒn Liùkù Dàl¨ Jins ¦rh†i Panxian (Old City) Hú B¸nchuƒn Cángshƒn Dàyáo Yuánmóu Yúnf‰ng Y¡ngpíng Xiàguƒn (Dàl¨ City) Myitkyina Shƒn 108 Q¥jìng (3005m) W‰ishƒn TéngchŸng B†oshƒn K§NMÍNG Mekong Ch©xióng X¸ngyì Yíngjiƒng Diƒn Chí B‡OSH„N Lùnán Shílín Mángshì Chéngjiƒng (Lùx¸) Ri Lúx¸ GU‡NGX¹ ver Tianlin DÉHÓNG 214 Yùx¸ Jiƒngchuƒn Ruìlì W†nd¸ng TŸngh†i Mu-se Líncƒng Gu†ngnán Jiànshu¨ To Nánníng Shípíng Ka¸yuán (280km) (Lá 323 Gèjiù Wénshƒn n Hónghé c M›ngzì Thanlivin River Thanlivin ƒng Yuányáng 326 Lashio Jiƒng) L«ch¥n Yuanyang S¸máo Rice Terraces Ha Giang Hék¡u Láncƒng Jiƒngchéng X¹SHU„NGB‡NNÀ Lao Cai Menga Mènglián Sapa VIETNAM J¨nghóng Red River MYANMAR M›ngh†i M›ngh†n Phongsali Black River (G†nl†nbà) (BURMA) Dàm›nglóng LAOS Dien Bien M›nglà Phu Móhƒn To Hanoi Kengtung (60km) Boten factors in making China’s sixth-largest established during the Warring States Period province somewhat troublesome to govern (453–221 BC). In the 2nd century BC, Chinese for much of its history within the Middle forces conquered the Red River Delta in mod- Kingdom. Closer geographically to Hanoi ern Vietnam, beginning a millennium of Han and Yangon (Rangoon) than Běijīng or cultural (if not always political) domination of Guǎngzhōu, Yúnnán has been pulled politi- the region. Chief among the Chinese exports cally and economically more by its Southeast were Confucianism, Taoism and Mahayana Asian neighbours than by dynasties to the Buddhism. While Vietnam gained much from north or trading cabals of the east. Its ethnic the Chinese, it would struggle for centuries make-up plays a major role as well, with many to throw off the yoke of its larger neighbour, of the province’s southern tribal groups having finally succeeding after the fall of the Tang strong kinship with tribes found in Thailand, dynasty in the 10th century. Laos, Vietnam and Myanmar (Burma) and The Indianised Cambodian kingdom of regarding the Han Chinese officials as carpet- Funan had cultural and quasi-diplomatic baggers at best. ties with Yúnnán’s chieftain leaders from Yúnnán’s first kingdom, the kingdom the 1st through 6th centuries AD. Later, of Dian, near present-day Kūnmíng, was Qin Shi Huang (China’s ‘first’ emperor) and YÚNNÁN PROVINCE (CHINA) YÚNNÁN PROVINCE (CHINA) lonelyplanet.com YÚNNÁN PROVINCE (CHINA) •• People & the Population 451 subsequent Han emperors held tentative im- In the early 21st century, Yúnnán has perial power over the southwest and forged again found itself in a position of great southern Silk Road trade routes to Burma, strategic importance, this time for economic but by the 7th century the Bai people (among rather than military reasons.