Brave New World

VIEW STYLE BRAVE NEW WORLD The fashion-forward cities of Antwerp and Tokyo are taking over as the new style capitals, À LA MODE says SAHAR KHAN The ModeNatie houses the Flanders Fashion Institute and the fashion museum. Left: the ANTWERP standout piece from For her graduate show collec- D’Heygere’s collection tion, a fanciful amalgam of man and beast called Human- imalus, Stephanie D’Heygere, front of that undecipherable Veronique Branquinho, creative direc- recent alumnus of the prestig- style. Margiela became both a tor of Delvaux, the world’s oldest luxe ious Royal Academy of Fine mainstream magnet and cult leather goods company, says, “In Antwerp, Arts in Antwerp, included a icon. Maison Martin Margiela, you can find the facilities of a metropolis chocolate blouse with a leath- now headed by a design team, with the cosiness of a charming village.” er sleeve fashioned into a bird continues his eccentric vision. Much of Antwerp’s talent has been ex- head, with a wooden beak and For spring, they presented a ported. Raf Simons designs for German black and yellow feathers. flat, square trench coat, tuxe- fashion house Jil Sander. Its reductionist “Antwerp style is eclectic,” do jacket and Oxford shirt, philosophy plays well with Simons’ clean- says D’Heygere, head designer stiff as a cardboard and appar- cut concepts, like the T-shirt-gown com- of leg wear line BEEN. “It’s ently stitched upon one. binations he presented for spring. Dior about expressing individuali- This quirky, postmodernist Homme’s artistic director Kris Van Ass- ty.” D’Heygere is one in a long glamour is melded with a clas- che presents in Paris, but his look is Bel- line of designers who have bro- sic sensibility in this city of gian. He is a fan of monotone shades and ken boundaries and put Ant- Gothic architecture, art and a severe cuts, a mark of Antwerp. werp on the forefront of global fashion. thriving diamond trade. Stylish locals, There is still a lot of talent in the city. It began in the early ’80s, when the re- lauded on blogs like Antwerp Fashion Alexandra Verschueren, another Royal nowned Antwerp Six—an avant-garde Observer, drive home this aesthetic. Academy graduate, won the Hyeres Fes- group of designers who tival Award for her debut graduated from Royal Acad- collection, an origami-esque emy—ushered in a decon- set of paper-thin pieces. She structed and reassembled presented standout pieces, look. Ann Demeulemeester, like a sand-coloured cape and Dries Van Noten, Walter fairy white dress unfolding Van Beirendonck, Marina in cut-outs. “I think the city Yee, Dirks Bikkembergs and has a realistic look towards Van Saene challenged the life,” says Verschueren. rule of New York, Paris, Mi- Perhaps it’s that very real- lan and London. ism that drives homegrown Over the next three dec- TOP DESIGNERS designers to make fantasti- ades, the competition only cal yet unexpectedly practi- intensified. Antwerp’s cloth cal clothes as an escape. > is cut with an innovative ANN spirit, a calculated whimsy. DEMEULEMEESTER JIL SANDER KEY LOOKS: Notable resident Martin ALTERNATIVE GLAMOUR MAISON MARTIN Margiela was at the fore- WITH CLASSIC ELEMENTS DINODIA; KIM WESToN-ARNOLD MARGIELA 118 VOGUE INdIA ApRIL 2011 www.vogue.in VIEW STREET TALK The Harajuku girls are a constant source of inspiration. TOKYO We all know the story by now: Tokyo is scene. Designer Limi Feu, daughter of capacious cotton in moonlit shades. the hub of Asian fashion, the city that iconic fashion cultivator Yohji Yamamo- Seemingly sending down creatures of the veers on the edge of avant-garde. It to, is an instigator of that energy. Her night, her work palpitated with ferocity, spawned the Gothic Lolita, the androgy- dark, unstructured looks exude that a mix of history, fiction and a forthcom- nous Visual Kei, and looks inspired by the particularly indefinable quality that ing reality yet to be seen. ubiquitous Hello Kitty, modelled in the symbolises Tokyo style. Her usual pal- “Tokyo is one of the rare places on neighbourhood of Harajuku. It’s made an ette of black and white was resurrected earth you can feel the past and the future art out of meshing discarded, outré ideas. for spring. Jumpsuits with asymmetri- beating together,” says Marras. His new- There is no more endearingly bizarre con- cal necklines, fringed trousers and est translation of this sartorial aspect tender for fashion’s wackiest title. So why densely pleated frocks paid homage to took voluminous form with billowy dress- has it made our list now? The fashionably the mysterious, layered mood of Japa- es, pants, shirts and skirts cut in chiffon evergreen city is in continual evolution nese fashion. printed with springtime flowers. and pushes boundaries. Tokyo speaks a Another common connection of Tokyo Eccentricity, thus, is the keyword. To- visceral language that, though untrans- fashion is intensity. Legendary designer kyo is an avalanche of disparate ideas and latable in the words of mainstream fash- Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garçons ideals. This might endanger another city ion, is a poetic tongue. harnesses that force each season. Her into obscuring its defining characteristic. A jack-of-all-trades, Tokyo is an eclec- spring show was a fusion of leather and Tokyo, however, becomes defined by its tic rake as well, dashing in helter-skelter looks, an amal- a sea of colourful prints and gam that identifies itself as a jumbo skirts, cropped jack- whole. It’s a cacophony that ets and torn tees. The com- works well together. It may binations, adhering to no seem like Tokyo designers rules whatseoever, are end- have fallen down the rabbit less, a well of creativity that hole, but in truth, they jumped has made a guessing game down intentionally. They are out of what style Tokyo will burrowing through to exactly generate next. where they want to go. “Everything is translated Because, as Marras ex- in a different dimension [in plains, “It is the last wonder- Tokyo],” says Antonio Mar- TOP DESIGNERS land where anyone can feel ras, artistic director at sem- like Alice.” n inal Japanese fashion house Kenzo, which celebrated its KEY LOOKS: 40th anniversary last year. ECCENTRIC MISHMASH LIMI FEU KENZO An electric current runs OF PRINTS, LAYERS AND through Tokyo’s fashion LENGTHS KIM WESTON-ARNOLD ALAMY; COMME DES GARÇONS 120 VOGuE INDIA APRIL 2011 www.vogue.in .

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