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St Petersburg 7 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 243 Behind the Scenes SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – and the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/privacy. amazing children for making me feel at home OUR READERS during my stay, and also for organising my Many thanks to the travellers who used the accommodation. Thanks also to such reliable last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, comrades as Nikita Yumanov, Gena Bogole- useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Jane pov, Alexei Dmitriev, Alexei Chernov, Nikita Charlotte, Dave Coenen, Sonia Conly, Maria Slavich, Dima Dzhafarov, Sasha and Andrey, Cooper, Jean-Robert Franco, Philip Glover, Greta Peter Kozyrev and Nastya Makarova. At Grishanova, Andras Havas, Nina Hoor, Alan Hu, Lonely Planet big thanks to Simon Richmond, Tadek Huskowski, Nikolai Iakovlev, Daniel Just, Anna Tyler, Brana Vladisavljevic and all the in-house eds and cartos for their hard work Peter Kozyrev, David Lewis, Chiara Manenti, on this title. Baudouin de Marsac, Atindra Mazumder, Matt McAllister, Ana Mendes, Bill Miller, Peter Miller, Simon Richmond Serhat Narsap, Thomas Sarosy, Annie Schulz Many thanks to Sasha and Andrey for a lovely Begle, Raymond Shamash place to stay, the ever knowledgeable Peter Kozyrev, Chris Hamilton, Adelya Dayanova, Polina Adrianova, Dimitri Ozerkov, Vladimir AUTHOR THANKS Stolyarov, Yegor Churakov, Oksana, Max- Tom Masters im Pinigin, Alexander Kim, Maria Isserlis, Yevgenia Semenoff and Polina at the Street Huge thanks to my many friends in St Art Museum. Petersburg, but especially Anatoliy Buzinskiy at Dozhd, Biblioteka Gogolya and Letovpitere for making such huge efforts to help me with ACKNOWLEDGMENTS contacts and introductions. Thanks to my Cover photograph: Church on the Spilled old friend and tireless Petersburger Simon Blood (p77), Walter Bibikow/AWL. Patterson, his wife Olga Dmitrieva and their Illustration p567 by Javier Zarracina BEHIND THE SCENES THIS BOOK Destination Editor Branislava Orr, Gabrielle Stefanos, Vladisavljevic Jeanette Wall This 7th edition of Lonely Planet’s St Petersburg Coordinating Editor Nigel Chin Cover Researcher Naomi guidebook was researched Product Editor Kate James Parker and written by Tom Masters Senior Cartographer Valentina Assisting Book Designer and Simon Richmond, who Kremenchutskaya Virginia Moreno also wrote the previous Thanks to Sasha Baskett, edition. This guidebook was Book Designer Jessica Rose Anna Harris, Claire Naylor, commissioned in Lonely Assisting Editors Charlotte Planet’s London office, and Karyn Noble, Angela Tinson, produced by the following: Anna Tyler ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 245 See also separate subindexes for: 5 EATING P249 6 DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE P312 3 ENTERTAINMENT P250 7 SHOPPING P251 2 SPORTS & ACTIVITIES P251 Index 4 SLEEPING P251 1-y Inzhenerny most 87 Anna, Empress (Ioanovna) Matyushin, Mikhail 149 bathrooms 234 191, 206-7 Michelangelo 61 Bely, Andrei 222-3 Anna Akhmatova Monet, Claude 69 bicycle travel 229 A Monument 117 Nesterov, Mikhail Birch House (Gatchina) 170 Academy of Arts Anna Akhmatova Museum at 211, 216 Blok, Alexander 222-3 Museum 137 the Fountain House 118 Novikov, Timur 218 boat tours 12, 31-2, 228, 12 accommodation 15, 174-84 Annunciation Church 115 Peredvizhniki 71, 137, Bolshoy Dom 117 costs 175 apartments 174 194, 216 Bolshoy Gostiny Dvor Historic Heart 177-80 architecture 22-3, 206-12 Perov, Vasily 75 96, 209 language 236-7 contemporary 212 Petrov-Vodkin, Kuzma 76 books 186, see also Petrograd & Vyborg neoclassical 207 Picasso, Pablo 69 literature Sides 184 Petrine baroque 206 Raphael 61 architecture 210 Sennaya & Kolomna 180-1 Russian Empire 210-11 Rembrandt 57, 63 culture 217 Smolny & Soviet 211-12 Renoir, Pierre-Auguste 65 history 188, 192, 194, 197, Vosstaniya 182-3 Style Moderne 210 Repin, Ilya 75, 76, 216 199, 203 Vasilyevsky Island 183-4 Armenian Church of St Reynolds, Sir Joshua 63 bookshops 47, see activities 24-5, see also Catherine 84 also Shopping subindex Sports & Activities Ribera, Jose de 61 art, see artists, visual arts Botanical Gardens 148 subindex Rodin, Auguste 65 art galleries, see galleries & Roerich, Nikolai 216 bridges 86-7, 229 Admiralteyskaya metro exhibition halls station 151, 150 Savitsky, Konstantin 75 Brodsky, Isaak 84 Artillery Museum 148 Admiralty 82 Semiradsky, Genrikh 73 Brodsky, Josef 118, 140, artists 202, 224 air travel 33, 226 Shishkin, Ivan 75 Antokolsky, Mark 75-6 Brodsky House-Museum 84 Akhmatova, Anna 117, 118, Smirnov, Vasily 73 Borovikovsky, Vladimir 73 223-4 Surikov, Vasily 75, 216 Bronze Horseman 81, 22 Brodsky, Isaak 84 alcohol 40-1, 187, see Titian 61 Buddhist Temple 153 Bryullov, Karl 60, 73, 78 also vodka Trubetskoy, Paolo 80 Bulla, Karl 83 Bulatov, Erik 217 Alexander I 192, 193, 210 Van Gogh, Vincent 69 bus travel 18, 227, 228-9 da Vinci, Leonardo 57, 67 Alexander III 80 Velázquez 61 business hours, see opening Delacroix, Eugéne 68 hours Alexander Column 79, 67 Vrubel, Mikhail 76, 216 di Tedice, Ugolino 60 Alexander Garden 82 Wanderers 71, 137, Alexander Nevsky El Greco 61 194, 216 C Monastery 114-15, 114 Falconet, Etienne 81, 207 arts 213-19 Flavitsky, Konstantin 73 C-189 Submarine Alexander Palace Arts Square Winter Museum 137 (Pushkin) 167 Gainsborough, Thomas 63 Festival 25 canals 12 Alexander Park Gaugin, Paul 69 ATMs 17, 233 (Pushkin) 167 castles, see palaces & Ghe, Nicholas 73, 75, 216 Au Pont Rouge 85 castles Alexandrovsky Park 148 Giorgione 61 Avtovo metro station Cathedral of the Amber Room (Pushkin) Goncharova, Natalya 151, 151 Transfiguration of Our 166, 166 76, 216-7 Saviour 116 ambulance 231 Ivanov, Alexander 73 cathedrals, see churches & Anichkov most 87, 86 Knave of Diamonds 216 B cathedrals Anichkov Palace 85 Kustodiev, Boris 76 ballet 10, 43-4, 109, 213-4, 5 Catherine Building Larionov, Mikhail 76, 216-7 Baltiyskaya metro (Peterhof) 163 Makovsky, Vladimir 75 station 151 Catherine Palace (Pushkin) Sights 000 Malevich, Kazimir 69, 76, Bankovsky most 87, 86-7 165-6, 166, 173 Map Pages 000 217, 219 banya 11, 44, 111, 131, 156, 11 Catherine Park (Pushkin) Photo Pages 000 Matisse, Henri 69 Bath Building (Peterhof) 163 166-7, 10, 166, 173 246 Catherine the Great 64, Monastery) 115 Erarta Museum & Galleries Gergiev, Valery 215 165-7, 192, 207 Trinity Cathedral of Contemporary Art German, Alexey 218 cell phones 17, 234 (Sennaya) 103 135, 135 Glinka, Mikhail 214 Central Naval Museum Vladimirsky etiquette 15, 19, 44, 125 Gogol, Nikolai 222, 223 13, 103 Cathedral 120 events 24-5 Gorbachev, Mikhail 204 Chaev Mansion 149 cinema 218, see also films exhibition halls, see Gorky, Maxim 219 INDEX galleries & exhibition Chaliapin, Fyodor 149 City Day 25 Grand Choral halls Chaliapin House City Electrical Transport Synagogue 103 Museum 149 Museum 138 Great Palace Chekhov, Anton 219 climate 15, 24-5 C (Oranienbaum) 13, - F H chemists 232 clothing 16, 44, 46, 47 171, 172 Fabergé, Peter Carl 82 Chesme Church 119 clubs, see Entertainment Grotto Pavilion Fabergé Museum 13, 82 Chesme Column subindex (Pushkin) 167 (Pushkin) 166 consulates 231 fashion 46, 47 guided tours 29-30 children, travel with 26 costs 14, 27 festivals 24-5, 45 Chkalov, Valery 147 accommodation 175 films 186, 201, 218 Chkalovskaya 147 discounts 27, 230 Finland Station 153 H Church of St John the food 37 fire 231 health 231, 232 Baptist 152 credit cards 233 food 36-9, see also Hermitage 7, 54-67, 58, 62, individual neighbour- Church on the Spilled Cruiser Aurora 148-9 7, 54, 56-7, 65 hoods, Eating subindex Blood 9, 77, 9, 31, 77 cruises, see boat tours Hermitage child-friendly options 26 (Peterhof) 163-4 churches & cathedrals culture 23, 217 costs 37 Hermitage Storage Annunciation Church 115 currency 233 language 237-8, 242 Facility 152 Armenian Church of St customs regulations 230 Catherine 84 opening hours 37 Historic Heart 51, 52-97, cycling 229 Cathedral of the vegetarian 38 52, 256-7 Transfiguration of Our free attractions 27 accommodation 177-80 Saviour 116 activities 97 D Freud, Sigmund 149 Chesme Church 119 drinking & nightlife dangers 16, 324 Church of St John the 53, 91-3 day trips 159-71, Baptist 152 159 G entertainment 93-5 Decembrists 81, 193 galleries & exhibition Church on the Spilled food 53, 85-89, 91 Derzhavin, Gabriel 121 halls 34-5 Blood 9, 77, 9, 31, 77 highlights 7, 8, 9, 52, Erarta Galleries 135 Kazan Cathedral 79 Derzhavin House- 54-78 Museum 121 Karl Bulla Photography Lutheran Church 83-4 shopping 53, 95-7 Diaghilev, Sergei 213 Studio 83 Nikolsky Cathedral 104 sights 54-85 disabilities, travellers K-Gallery 120 Pavlovsk Cathedral transport 53 with 234 Manege Central (Gatchina) 170 walks 88, discount cards 27, 230 Exhibition Hall 105 88 Pokrovsky
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