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amazing children for making me feel at home OUR READERS during my stay, and also for organising my Many thanks to the travellers who used the accommodation. Thanks also to such reliable last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, comrades as Nikita Yumanov, Gena Bogole- useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Jane pov, Alexei Dmitriev, Alexei Chernov, Nikita Charlotte, Dave Coenen, Sonia Conly, Maria Slavich, Dima Dzhafarov, Sasha and Andrey, Cooper, Jean-Robert Franco, Philip Glover, Greta Peter Kozyrev and Nastya Makarova. At Grishanova, Andras Havas, Nina Hoor, Alan Hu, Lonely Planet big thanks to Simon Richmond, Tadek Huskowski, Nikolai Iakovlev, Daniel Just, Anna Tyler, Brana Vladisavljevic and all the in-house eds and cartos for their hard work Peter Kozyrev, David Lewis, Chiara Manenti, on this title. Baudouin de Marsac, Atindra Mazumder, Matt McAllister, Ana Mendes, Bill Miller, Peter Miller, Simon Richmond Serhat Narsap, Thomas Sarosy, Annie Schulz Many thanks to Sasha and Andrey for a lovely Begle, Raymond Shamash place to stay, the ever knowledgeable Peter Kozyrev, Chris Hamilton, Adelya Dayanova, Polina Adrianova, Dimitri Ozerkov, Vladimir AUTHOR THANKS Stolyarov, Yegor Churakov, Oksana, Max- Tom Masters im Pinigin, Alexander Kim, Maria Isserlis, Yevgenia Semenoff and Polina at the Street Huge thanks to my many friends in St Art Museum. Petersburg, but especially Anatoliy Buzinskiy at Dozhd, Biblioteka Gogolya and Letovpitere for making such huge efforts to help me with ACKNOWLEDGMENTS contacts and introductions. Thanks to my Cover photograph: Church on the Spilled old friend and tireless Petersburger Simon Blood (p77), Walter Bibikow/AWL. Patterson, his wife Olga Dmitrieva and their Illustration p567 by Javier Zarracina BEHIND THE SCENES THE BEHIND

THIS BOOK Destination Editor Branislava Orr, Gabrielle Stefanos, Vladisavljevic Jeanette Wall This 7th edition of Lonely Planet’s St Petersburg Coordinating Editor Nigel Chin Cover Researcher Naomi guidebook was researched Product Editor Kate James Parker and written by Tom Masters Senior Cartographer Valentina Assisting Book Designer and Simon Richmond, who Kremenchutskaya Virginia Moreno also wrote the previous Thanks to Sasha Baskett, edition. This guidebook was Book Designer Jessica Rose Anna Harris, Claire Naylor, commissioned in Lonely Assisting Editors Charlotte Planet’s London office, and Karyn Noble, Angela Tinson, produced by the following: Anna Tyler ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 245 See also separate subindexes for:

5 EATING P249

6 DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE P312 3 ENTERTAINMENT P250 7 SHOPPING P251 2 SPORTS & ACTIVITIES P251 Index 4 SLEEPING P251

1-y Inzhenerny most 87 Anna, Empress (Ioanovna) Matyushin, Mikhail 149 bathrooms 234 191, 206-7 Michelangelo 61 Bely, Andrei 222-3 Anna Akhmatova Monet, Claude 69 bicycle travel 229 A Monument 117 Nesterov, Mikhail Birch House () 170 Academy of Arts Anna Akhmatova Museum at 211, 216 Blok, Alexander 222-3 Museum 137 the Fountain House 118 Novikov, Timur 218 boat tours 12, 31-2, 228, 12 accommodation 15, 174-84 Annunciation Church 115 Peredvizhniki 71, 137, Bolshoy Dom 117 costs 175 apartments 174 194, 216 Bolshoy Gostiny Dvor Historic Heart 177-80 architecture 22-3, 206-12 Perov, Vasily 75 96, 209 language 236-7 contemporary 212 Petrov-Vodkin, Kuzma 76 books 186, see also Petrograd & Vyborg neoclassical 207 Picasso, Pablo 69 literature Sides 184 Petrine 206 Raphael 61 architecture 210 Sennaya & Kolomna 180-1 210-11 Rembrandt 57, 63 culture 217 Smolny & Soviet 211-12 Renoir, Pierre-Auguste 65 history 188, 192, 194, 197, Vosstaniya 182-3 Style Moderne 210 Repin, Ilya 75, 76, 216 199, 203 183-4 Armenian Church of St Reynolds, Sir Joshua 63 bookshops 47, see activities 24-5, see also Catherine 84 also Shopping subindex Sports & Activities Ribera, Jose de 61 art, see artists, visual arts Botanical Gardens 148 subindex Rodin, Auguste 65 art galleries, see galleries & Roerich, Nikolai 216 bridges 86-7, 229 Admiralteyskaya metro exhibition halls station 151, 150 Savitsky, Konstantin 75 Brodsky, Isaak 84 Artillery Museum 148 Admiralty 82 Semiradsky, Genrikh 73 Brodsky, Josef 118, 140, artists 202, 224 air travel 33, 226 Shishkin, Ivan 75 Antokolsky, Mark 75-6 Brodsky House-Museum 84 Akhmatova, Anna 117, 118, Smirnov, Vasily 73 Borovikovsky, Vladimir 73 223-4 Surikov, Vasily 75, 216 Bronze Horseman 81, 22 Brodsky, Isaak 84 alcohol 40-1, 187, see Titian 61 Buddhist Temple 153 Bryullov, Karl 60, 73, 78 also vodka Trubetskoy, Paolo 80 Bulla, Karl 83 Bulatov, Erik 217 Alexander I 192, 193, 210 Van Gogh, Vincent 69 bus travel 18, 227, 228-9 da Vinci, Leonardo 57, 67 Alexander III 80 Velázquez 61 business hours, see opening Delacroix, Eugéne 68 hours Alexander Column 79, 67 Vrubel, Mikhail 76, 216 di Tedice, Ugolino 60 Alexander Garden 82 Wanderers 71, 137, Alexander Nevsky El Greco 61 194, 216 C Monastery 114-15, 114 Falconet, Etienne 81, 207 arts 213-19 Flavitsky, Konstantin 73 C-189 Submarine Alexander Arts Square Winter Museum 137 (Pushkin) 167 Gainsborough, Thomas 63 Festival 25 canals 12 Alexander Park Gaugin, Paul 69 ATMs 17, 233 (Pushkin) 167 castles, see & Ghe, Nicholas 73, 75, 216 Au Pont Rouge 85 castles Alexandrovsky Park 148 Giorgione 61 Avtovo metro station Cathedral of the (Pushkin) Goncharova, Natalya 151, 151 Transfiguration of Our 166, 166 76, 216-7 Saviour 116 ambulance 231 Ivanov, Alexander 73 cathedrals, see churches & Anichkov most 87, 86 Knave of Diamonds 216 B cathedrals 85 Kustodiev, Boris 76 ballet 10, 43-4, 109, 213-4, 5 Catherine Building Larionov, Mikhail 76, 216-7 Baltiyskaya metro (Peterhof) 163 Makovsky, Vladimir 75 station 151 (Pushkin) Sights 000 Malevich, Kazimir 69, 76, Bankovsky most 87, 86-7 165-6, 166, 173 Map Pages 000 217, 219 banya 11, 44, 111, 131, 156, 11 (Pushkin) Photo Pages 000 Matisse, Henri 69 Bath Building (Peterhof) 163 166-7, 10, 166, 173 246 64, Monastery) 115 Erarta Museum & Galleries Gergiev, Valery 215 165-7, 192, 207 Trinity Cathedral of Contemporary Art German, Alexey 218 cell phones 17, 234 (Sennaya) 103 135, 135 Glinka, Mikhail 214 Central Naval Museum Vladimirsky etiquette 15, 19, 44, 125 Gogol, Nikolai 222, 223 13, 103 Cathedral 120 events 24-5 Gorbachev, Mikhail 204 Chaev Mansion 149 cinema 218, see also films exhibition halls, see Gorky, Maxim 219

INDEX INDEX galleries & exhibition Chaliapin, Fyodor 149 City Day 25 Grand Choral halls Chaliapin House City Electrical Transport Synagogue 103 Museum 149 Museum 138 Great Palace Chekhov, Anton 219 climate 15, 24-5 C (Oranienbaum) 13,

- F

H chemists 232 clothing 16, 44, 46, 47 171, 172 Fabergé, Peter Carl 82 119 clubs, see Entertainment Grotto Pavilion Fabergé Museum 13, 82 Chesme Column subindex (Pushkin) 167 (Pushkin) 166 consulates 231 fashion 46, 47 guided tours 29-30 children, travel with 26 costs 14, 27 festivals 24-5, 45 Chkalov, Valery 147 accommodation 175 films 186, 201, 218 Chkalovskaya 147 discounts 27, 230 Station 153 H Church of St John the food 37 fire 231 health 231, 232 Baptist 152 credit cards 233 food 36-9, see also Hermitage 7, 54-67, 58, 62, individual neighbour- Church on the Spilled Cruiser Aurora 148-9 7, 54, 56-7, 65 hoods, Eating subindex Blood 9, 77, 9, 31, 77 cruises, see boat tours Hermitage child-friendly options 26 (Peterhof) 163-4 churches & cathedrals culture 23, 217 costs 37 Hermitage Storage Annunciation Church 115 currency 233 language 237-8, 242 Facility 152 Armenian Church of St customs regulations 230 Catherine 84 opening hours 37 Historic Heart 51, 52-97, cycling 229 Cathedral of the vegetarian 38 52, 256-7 Transfiguration of Our free attractions 27 accommodation 177-80 Saviour 116 activities 97 D Freud, Sigmund 149 Chesme Church 119 drinking & nightlife dangers 16, 324 Church of St John the 53, 91-3 day trips 159-71, Baptist 152 159 G entertainment 93-5 Decembrists 81, 193 galleries & exhibition Church on the Spilled food 53, 85-89, 91 Derzhavin, Gabriel 121 halls 34-5 Blood 9, 77, 9, 31, 77 highlights 7, 8, 9, 52, Erarta Galleries 135 Kazan Cathedral 79 Derzhavin House- 54-78 Museum 121 Photography Lutheran Church 83-4 shopping 53, 95-7 Diaghilev, Sergei 213 Studio 83 Nikolsky Cathedral 104 sights 54-85 disabilities, travellers K-Gallery 120 Pavlovsk Cathedral transport 53 with 234 Manege Central (Gatchina) 170 walks 88, discount cards 27, 230 Exhibition Hall 105 88 Pokrovsky Cathedral history 23, 188-205 Divo Ostrov 153 Marina Gisich (Gatchina) 170 books 188, 192, 194, 197, Dostoevsky, Fyodor 102, Gallery 120 Sampsonievsky 199, 203 120-1, 220-1, 222 New Exhibition Hall 115 Cathedral 153 Catherine the Great 64, Dostoevsky Houses 102 Pushkinskaya 10 119 Smolny Cathedral 165-7, 192, 207 Rizzordi Art 116, 128, 208 Dostoevsky Foundation 120 Decembrists 81, 193 SS Peter & Paul Museum 120-1 Rosphoto State Great Northern War 189 Cathedral 144-5, 12, drinking & nightlife 40-2, Photography Leningrad purges 201-2 49, 144 see also individual neighbourhoods, Centre 83 Peter the Great 81-2, St Isaac’s Cathedral 8, Drinking & Nightlife Treasure Gallery 63 188-91 78, 29, 78 subindex gardens, see parks & St Peter & Paul gardens 195-9 Cathedral (Peterhof) Gatchina 169-70 164 E Gatchina Great Palace 202-3 Temple of the electricity 230-1 (Gatchina) 169-70, 172 War of 1812 193 Assumption 137 Elizabeth, Empress 191-2 Gatchina Park holidays 233-4 Trinity Cathedral embassies 231 (Alexander Nevsky (Gatchina) 170 homosexuality, see gay emergencies 231, 239 gay travellers 15, 16, travellers, lesbian entertainment 43-5, see 186-7, 231 travellers also individual General Staff Building 13, hostels 174 Sights 000 neighbourhoods, 68-9, 67, 68, 208 hotels 174 Map Pages 000 Entertainment subindex Geological Museum 138 House of Music 105 Photo Pages Erarta Galleries 135 000 House of Soviets 119 247 Leuchtenberg House 147 Moscow, travel to/from 33 Menshikov Palace 136-7 I literature 23, 220-4, see Mosque 147-8 Metro Museum 138 Icebreaker Krasin 137 also books Most Lomonosova 84 Mikhailovsky Castle 80 icons 23 Liteyny 112-131, 112, 260-1 Museum of Decorative & Museum of Decorative & internet access 232 drinking & nightlife 126 Applied Arts 117-18 Applied Arts 117-18 internet resources, see food 121-2 Museum of Ethnology & Museum of Political websites sights 116-18 Anthropology, see History 147 INDEX Iskusstv, Ploshchad 84 Kunstkamera Loft Project ETAGI 120 Museum of Railway itineraries 20-1 Museum of Political Technology 104 Lomonosova, Ploshchad 84 History 147 Museum of Soviet I

Lutheran Church 83-4 -

Museum of Railway Arcade Machines n J Lviny most 87, 87 Technology 104 13, 85 Jewish community 103 Museum of Soviet Arcade Museum of the Defence Jordan Staircase 59, 65 Machines 13, 85 & Blockade of M Museum of the Defence & Leningrad 118 magazines 230 Blockade of Museum of the History K Malevich, Kazimir 69, 76, Leningrad 118 of Political Police 83 Kamennoostrovsky 217, 219 Museum of the History of Museum of the Imperial Palace 152 Manege Central Exhibition Political Police 83 Porcelain Factory 129 Kamenny Island 152 Hall 105 Museum of the Imperial Museum of Zoology 136 Karl Bulla Photography 80 Porcelain Factory 129 Nabokov Museum 104 Studio 83 Mariinsky II 13, 186, 211 Museum of Zoology 136 People’s Will D-2 Kazan Cathedral 79 Mariinsky Ballet Festival 24 museums 34-5, see Submarine K-Gallery 120 Mariinsky Theatre 10, 101, also galleries & Museum 137 exhibition halls Kirov, Sergei 148, 201-2 109, 213-14, 11, 43, 101 Petersburg Avant-Garde Academy of Arts Museum 149 Kirov Museum 148 Marina Gisich Gallery 120 Museum 137 Pushkin Flat-Museum 83 Kirovsky Islands 149, Maritime Victory Anna Akhmatova 152-53 Park 152-3 Pushkin House 138 Mars Field 83 Museum at the Railway Museum 102 Kirovsky Zavod metro Fountain House 118 station 151 marshrutky 18, 228-9 Rumyantsev Artillery Museum 148 Kolomna 51, 98-111, , measures 230 Mansion 104 98 Brodsky House- medical services 232 9, 70-6, 264-5 Museum 84 Mendeleev, Dmitry 136 72, 74, 8, 70, 73 accommodation 180-1 C-189 Submarine Russian Museum of drinking & nightlife 99, Mendeleev Museum 136 Museum 137 Ethnography 81 108-9 Menshikov Palace 136-7 Central Naval Museum Russian Vodka entertainment 109-10 menus 37 13, 103 Museum 105 food 99, 106-8 metro 18, 138, 228, see also Chaliapin House Sheremetyev Palace 118 highlights 10, 98, individual stations Museum 149 Sigmund Freud Museum 100, 101 metro art 150-1 City Electrical Transport of Dreams 149 shopping 110-11 Metro Museum 138 Museum 138 St Petersburg State sights 100, 101, 103-5 Cruiser Aurora 148-9 Metropolitan’s House 115 Museum of Theatre & sports & activities 111 Meyerhold, Vsevolod 219 Derzhavin House- Music 83 Museum 121 transport 99 Mikhailovsky Castle 80 Street Art Museum 13, 154 Dostoevsky Konyushennaya Mikhailovsky Gardens 82-3 Toy Museum 149 ploshchad 84-5 Museum 120-1 music 44, 214-15, see also Erarta Museum & Kramskoy, Ivan 216 70-6, 73 individual composers Galleries of Contem- Krasny most 85 Milonov, Vitaly 186-7 porary Art 135, 135 Krestovsky Island 152-3 Mini St Petersburg 148 Fabergé Museum 13, 82 Kunstkamera 66, 134, 3, mobile phones 17, 234 N General Staff Building 13, 66-7, 134 Molokhovets, Elena 123 Nabokov, Vladimir 104, 223 68-9, 67, 68, 208 Kuryokhin, Sergei 217 monasteries 114-15 Nabokov Museum 104 Geological Museum 138 money 14, 17, 27, 230, 233, Narvskaya metro Hermitage 7, 54-67, , see also costs 58 station 151, 150-1 62, 7, 54, 65 L Monplaisir (Peterhof) Naryshkin Bastion 145 language 17, 18, 236-42 161, 163 Hermitage Storage National Library of Facility 152 Lazarus Cemetery 115 Montferrand, Auguste 78 84 Icebreaker Krasin 137 legal matters 232 Monument to the Heroic Panorama 145 Lenin, Vladimir 197-9, 201 Defenders of Kirov Museum 148 Nevsky Prospekt 96 Leningradsky Zoo 148 Leningrad 119 Kunstkamera 66, 134, 3, New Exhibition Hall 115 , lesbian travellers 15, 16, Monument to the Victims of 66-7 134 New Holland 105 Mendeleev Museum 136 186-7, 231 Political Repression 117 newspapers 230 248 Nicholas II 59, 194-5 54-67, 79, entertainment 157 Rimsky-Korsakov, nightlife 40-2, see also 207, 3, 65 food 143, 154-7 Nikolai 110, 213, 214 individual neighbour- Winter Palace of highlights 12, 142, 144-6 Rizzordi Art hoods, Drinking & Peter I 81-2 shopping 158 Foundation 120 Nightlife subindex Yelagin Palace 152 sights 144-53 Romanov, Grigory 204 Nikolsky Cathedral 104 Yusupov Palace 100, 100 sports & activities 158 Romanovs 200

INDEX INDEX Nikolsky Cemetery 115 Panteleymonovsky most 87 transport 143 Rosphoto State Photography Centre 83 Park Alexandria walks 155, 155 (Peterhof) 164 Rossi, Carlo 210-11 Petrogradsky Island 147-9 O Rückert, Fyodor 82 N parks & gardens 23 opening hours 233 pharmacies 232 - Rumyantsev, Nikolai 104 S Alexander Garden 82 Piskaryovskoe bars 41 Rumyantsev Mansion 104 Alexander Park Cemetery 153 museums & galleries 35 (Pushkin) 167 Russian Ark 61 restaurants 37 Pl Vosstaniya metro Alexandrovsky Park 148 station 151 236-42 shops 47 Botanical Gardens 148 Planetarium 148 Russian Revolution 195-9 opera 43-4, 214-5 Catherine Park planning 16-17, see also Russian Museum 9, 70-6, Oranienbaum 13, 170-1 (Pushkin) 166-7, individual 72, 74, 8, 70, 73 Oranienbaum Park 166, 173 neighbourhoods Russian Museum of (Oranienbaum) 171 Gatchina Park budgeting 14, 27, 37 Ethnography 81 Orthodox Academy 115 (Gatchina) 170 children, travel with 26 Russian Vodka Ostrovskogo, Ploshchad 84 Maritime Victory festivals & events 24-5 Museum 105 Park 152-3 itineraries 20-1 Mars Field 83 repeat visitors 13 P Mikhailovsky S Palace Square 79, 67 Gardens 82-3 St Petersburg safety 16, 234 basics 14-15 palaces & castles 172-3 Oranienbaum Park Sampsonievsky St Petersburg’s (Oranienbaum) 171 Cathedral 153 neighbourhoods 50-1 (Pushkin) 167 Park Alexandria Sennaya 51, 98-111, 98, travel seasons 15, 24-5 Anichkov Palace 85 (Peterhof) 164 264-5 websites 14, 15, 175, 179 Catherine Palace Pavlovsk Great Park accommodation 180-1 Pokrovsky Cathedral (Pushkin) 165-6, (Pavlovsk) 168 drinking & nightlife (Gatchina) 170 166, 173 Summer Garden 80-1 99, 108 police 231 Gatchina Great Palace & entertainment 109-10 politics 186-7 (Gatchina) 169-70, Gardens 116 food 99, 105-6 population 187 172 University Sculpture highlights 98 Garden 136 ports 32, 227-8 Great Palace shopping 110-11 (Oranienbaum) 13, Yusupov Gardens 102-3 postal services 233 sights 102-3 171, 172 Pavlovsk 165-8 public holidays 233-4 sports & activities 111 House of Music 105 Pavlovsk Cathedral puppet shows 26, see transport 99 Kamennoostrovsky (Gatchina) 170 also Entertainment Sennaya Ploshchad 102 Palace 152 Pavlovsk Great Palace subindex Marble Palace 80 (Pavlovsk) 167 Pushkin, Alexander 83, 138, Sheremetyev Palace 118 Menshikov Palace 136-7 Pavlovsk Great Park 153-4, 220 shopping 46-7, see also individual neighbour- Mikhailovsky Castle 80 (Pavlovsk) 168 Pushkin 165-8, 168 hoods, Shopping People’s Will D-2 Pushkin Flat-Museum 83 Pavlovsk Great Palace subindex (Pavlovsk) 167 Submarine Museum Pushkin House 138 137-8 Shostakovich, Dmitry 215 Peterhof 160-4, 162, 3, Pushkinskaya 10 119 Peter II 191 Siege of Leningrad 202-3 17, 160, 163, 173 Pushkinskaya metro Sigmund Freud Museum of Sheremetyev Palace 118 Peter & Paul Fortress 12, station 151, 150 144-6, , , Dreams 149 146 12 144 Putin, Vladimir 205 Singer Building 96, 209 79-80, 21 Peter the Great 81-2, 188-91 Peterhof 160-4, 162, 3, 17, Site of Pushkin’s Tauride Palace & Duel 153-4 Gardens 116 160, 163, 173 R Railway Museum 102 Small Synagogue 103 Tsarskoe Selo 10, 165-7, Peter’s Cabin 147 Raketa Petrodvorets Watch smoking 41, 187, 230 10, 165, 173 Petersburg Avant-Garde Factory (Peterhof) 164 Smolny 51, 112-31, , Vorontsov Palace 85 Museum 149 112 Petipa, Marius 213 Raskolnikov House 102 260-1 Petrograd Side 51, 142-58, Rasputin, Grigory 196 accommodation 182-3 Sights 000 142, 268-9 Rastrelli, Bartolomeo 64, drinking & nightlife 206-7 113, 126 Map Pages 000 accommodation 184 Red Banner Textile entertainment 127-8 Photo Pages 000 drinking & nightlife 157 Factory 147 food 113, 121-2 249

highlights 112 theft 234 galleries & exhibition 5 EATING shopping 128-31 Tikhvin Cemetery 114-5 halls, museums sights 116-18 time 234 Vladimirskaya 112-31, 112, 19th Century Restaurant (Pushkin) 166 sports & activities 131 tipping 17, 37, 41, 175 260-1 transport 113 toilets 234 drinking & nightlife 126-7 Smolny Cathedral 116, 208 tourist information 234 food 122-5 A Smolny Institute 116 tours 29-30, 31-2 sights 119-21 Arka 90 INDEX Sobchak, Anatoly 204 Toy Museum 149 Vladimirsky Cathedral 120 Sokurov, Alexander 218 train travel 33, 227 vodka 40, 105, 125

B EATING souvenirs 46, 47 trams 18 Vorontsov Palace 85 BabJib 156 sports, see Sports & travel to St Petersburg Vosstaniya 51, 112-31, 112, Activities subindex 15, 226-8 260-1 Baku 91 squares travel within St Petersburg accommodation 182-3 BGL Cafe & Market 122-3 Ploshchad Iskusstv 84 18-19, 228-9 drinking & nightlife 113, Biblioteka 89 Ploshchad Treasure Gallery 63 126-7 Bistro Garçon 125 Konyushennaya 84-5 Trinity Cathedral entertainment 127-8 Blizkie Druzya 154 Ploshchad (Alexander Nevsky food 113, 122-5 Botanika 121-2 Lomonosova 84 Monastery) 115 highlights 112, 114-15 Brynza 123 Ploshchad Trinity Cathedral shopping 128-31 Buter Brodsky 140, 141 (Sennaya) 103 Ostrovskogo 84 sights 114-15, 119-21 Troitsky most 87 Ploshchad Sennaya 102 sports & activities 131 trolleybuses 18 C SS Peter & Paul Cathedral transport 113 Trotsky, Leon 198 Café King Pong 91 144-5, 12, 49, 144 Vyborg Side 51, 142-58, Cafe Singer 96 St Isaac’s Cathedral 8, 78, Trubetskoy Bastion 145 142, 268-9 Cardamom 138 29, 78 Tsaritsyn & accommodation 184 Olgin Pavilions Casa del Myaso 140-1 St Peter & Paul Cathedral entertainment 157 (Peterhof) 164 (Peterhof) 164 Cat Café 125 food 143, 154-7 St Petersburg State Tsarskoe Selo 10, 165-7, 10, Chaiki 89 highlights 142 Museum of Theatre & 165, 173 Chak-Chak 154 shopping 158 Music 83 TV 230 Chekhov 156 sights 153-4 Stalin, Josef 201, 212 Twelve Colleges 136 City Grill Express 121 sports & activities 158 State Museum of Theatre Clean Plates Society 89 & Music, see transport 143 Crocodile 108 Sheremetyev Palace U Stieglitz Museum, see University Sculpture Museum of Decorative Garden 136 W D & Applied Arts walks Dekabrist 106 State Hermitage Musem, Historic Heart 88, 88 Dom 106 see Hermitage V Petrograd Side 155, 155 Dom Beat 123-4 Stravinsky, Igor 215 vacations 233-4 Vasilyevsky Island Duo Gastrobar 121 Street Art Museum 13, 154 Vaganova School of 139, 139 Strelka 136 Choreography 84 Walrus Club 145 Stroganov Palace Vasilyevsky Island 51, 132- water 232 E 41, , 79-80, 21 132 270-1 weather 15, 24-5 Entrée 107 accommodation 183-4 Summer Garden 80-1 websites 14, 15, 175, 179 drinking & nightlife weights 230 133, 141 F White Nights 7, 25, T entertainment 141 6-7 Flamand Rose 157 Tauride Palace & food 133, 138-41 wi-fi 17, 232 Francesco 122 Gardens 116 highlights 132, 134, 135 Winter Palace 54-67, 79, Funky Kitchen 154, 156 207, 3, 65 taxes 17 shopping 141 Winter Palace of taxis 18, 229 sights 134-8 Peter I 81-2 G Tchaikovsky, Pyotr 214 transport 133 women travellers 235 Gin no Taki 122 Tekhnologichesky Institut walks 139, 139 metro station 151 Gintarus 140 vegetarian travellers 38 telephone services 234 Gosti 90 Venus Pavilion Y Grad Petrov 140 television 230 (Gatchina) 170 Yelagin Island 152, 158 Graf-In 107 Temple of the Victory Day 24-5 Yelagin Palace 152 Assumption 137 Grand Cafe visas 28, 31, 234-5 Yusupov Gardens 102-3 theatre 219, see also Mikhailovsky 73 visual arts 22, 47, 215-18, Entertainment subindex Yusupov Palace 100, 100 Grand Cru 125 see also artists, 250 Grand Orangerie Troitsky Most (Historic (Peterhof) 163 O Heart) 89 F Green Room 124 Obed Bufet 121 Troitsky Most (Petrograd Freedom 126 Grey’s 123 Oh! Mumbai 106 Side) 154 Okhota (Oranienbaum) 170 G I U Golubaya Ustritsa 93 INDEX INDEX Idiot 107-8 P Ukrop 89 Grad Petrov 141 Imperator Restaurant Palkin 122 Griboyedov 127 138, 140 Patisserie Garçon 91

DRINKING &NIGHTLIFE V Pelmeniya (Historic H Heart) 89 Vinostudia 123 J Hat, The 126 Pelmeniya (Petrograd Volna 156 Jack & Chan 85 Side) 154 Helsinki Bar 141 Jakov 121 Pelmeny Bar 90 Jean-Jacques (Petrograd W Pirogovoy Dvorik 90 Side) 157 White Rabbit (Pushkin) 166 K Podvorye (Pavlovsk) 166 Jean-Jacques Kofye na Kukhnye 92 (Vosstaniya) 124 Polyanka 124 Kopen 92 Pot Arthur 125 Y Potatoes with Yat 90 K Mushrooms 89 Yerevan 90 M Kafe Piramida Probka 157 Yuzu 125 Mayakovsky 108-9 (Gatchina) 169 Pyshki 90 Miracle 92 Karavan 106 Mishka 126 Khochu Kharcho 106 Z MiXup Bar 92-3 R Kilikia 91 Zig Zag 124 Mod Club 93 Restoran 140 Koryushka 156 Zoom Café 89 More 93 Romeo’s Bar & Kitchen 107 Russian Vodka Room L No 1 108 P Le Menu 154 DRINKING & 6 NIGHTLIFE Piff Paff 92 Leningradskoye Kafe 145 S Poison 93 Sadko 107 M Sakartvelo 140 B R Makaronniki 156 Salkhino 156 Bar 812 126 Radiobaby 92 Mamaliga 90 Samadeva 89 Barakobamabar 93 Real Deal’s Old School Mansarda 108 Schastye 124 Belochka & Mielofon 92 Bar 109 Mari Vanna 157 Schengen 121 Bermudy Bar Disco 93 Marketplace (Historic Birzha Bar 141 Semeinye Traditsy 156 S Heart) 85 Shtandart Restaurant Bootlegger’s 141 Schumli 108 Marketplace (Vasilyevsky (Peterhof) 163 Borodabar 91 Sidreria 92 Island) 138 Sinhoto 91 Brimborium 127 Sky Bar 127 Mechta Molokhovets 122 Slavyansky Dvor Brúgge 141 Smalldouble 108 Mesto (Petrograd Side) 156 (Gatchina) 169 Buter Brodsky 140, 141 Mesto (Smolny) 122 Soup Vino 89 Stirka 40 108 Miga 107 Staraya Derevnya 154 Mimino (Oranienbaum) 170 Stolovaya No 1 Kopeika 90 C Cafe Mitte 127 T MiX in St Petersburg 91 Stroganoff Steak Terminal Bar 127 Mops 124-5 House 107 Cafe-Bar Produckty 93 Moskva 122 Sumeta 106 Central Station 93 Sunduk 122 Coffee Room U St Petersburg 157 Union Bar & Grill 126 N Coffee Station 126 Na Kukhnye 140 T New Peterhof Hotel Tandoori Nights 91 V (Peterhof) 163 Taste to Eat 124 D Volkonsky 157 Tbiliso 156 Dead Poets Bar 126 Teatr 90 Dom Beat 123-4, 126 Z Sights 000 Teplo 106-7 Double B 92 Ziferberg 92 Map Pages 000 Terrassa 90-1 Dyuni 127 Ziferblat 126 Photo Pages 000 Testo 105-6 251

3 ENTERTAINMENT Military Shop 95-7 Art-Hotel Kontrast 184 P Mir Espresso 110 Artway Hostels Sleepbox Palace Theatre 94 Model Shop 158 Malaya Sadovaya 177 A Petrovich 127 Nevsky 152 131 A2 157 157 Nevsky Centre 130-1 B Priyut Komedianta Alexandrinsky Theatre 94 Northway 110 Baby Lemonade Hostel 177

Theatre 94 INDEX Avrora 94-5 OFF 129 Baltic Star Hotel 184 Parfionova 130 Belmond Grand Hotel R Passage 96 Europe 180 B Red Fox Jazz Café 128 Perinnye Ryady 95 Belvedere-Nevsky 178-9 ENTERTAINMENT Baltic House 157 Rimsky-Korsakov Phonoteka 129 Brothers Karamazov 182-3 Bolshoy Drama Theatre 94 Conservatory 110 Pionersky Magazin 95 Bolshoy Puppet Russkaya Starina 130 Theatre 128 C S Russky Lyon 131, 158 Casa Leto 178 Shostakovich Sennoy Market 110 Cuba Hostel 177 C Philharmonia 93 Sewing Corp 95 Cabaret 128 Sibur Arena 157 Singer Building 96 Cosmonaut 128 Smolny Cathedral 128 Sol-Art 129 D St Petersburg Opera 110 Staraya Kniga 95 Dostoevsky House D St Petersburg State Sytny Market 158 Hotel 181 Circus 95 Demmeni Marionette Taiga 95 Theatre 95 Tkachi 129 F Dom 7 95 Y Tula Samovars 130 FD Hostel 178 Dom Kino 95 Yusupov Palace Udelnaya Fair 158 Theatre 110 Fortecia Peter 179 Vinissimo 97 Four Seasons Hotel Lion F Wagner 129 Palace 180 Feel Yourself Russian Yakhont 97 Friends by the Folkshow 110 7 SHOPPING Hermitage 177 Fish Fabrique 128 8 Store 95 Friends Hostel on Anglia 129 2 SPORTS & Griboedov 177 ACTIVITIES G Apraksin Dvor 97 Friends on Bankovsky 177 Friends on Chekhova 177 Glinka Capella House 94 Art Re.Flex 130 Anglo Tourismo 97 Friends on Kazanskaya 177 Auchan 131 Degtyarniye Baths 131 Friends on Nevsky 177 H Bat Norton 130 Kazachiye Bani 111 Bolshoy Gostiny Dvor Friends on Vosstaniya 177 Hermitage Theatre 94 Krugliye Bani 158 96, 152 Lavrushka 97 Books & More 95 Mytninskiye Bani 131 G J Borey Art Centre 129 Piterland 158 Golden Age Retro Hotel 181 Jazz Philharmonic Hall 128 Collection 95 Rentbike 111 Green Apple Hotel 183 JFC Jazz Club 127 Day & Night 158 Skatprokat 131 Guest House Nevsky 3 178 DLT 97 Yelagin Island 152, 158 K Dom Knigi 95 Kamchatka 157 Erarta 141 H Hello Hostel 180-1 Kino&Teatr Angleter 94 Freedom Store 96 4 SLEEPING Helvetia Hotel & Suites 182 Komissarzhevskaya Galeria 130 Theatre 94 Gallery of Dolls 111 3MostA 178 Hostel Life 182 Kuryokhin Modern Art Grand Palace 97 Hotel Astoria 180 Centre 141 Imagine Club 130 A Hotel Aurora 184 Imperial Porcelain 131 Alexander House 181 Hotel Azimut 183 M Imperial Porcelain factory All You Need Hostel 182 Hotel Domina Prestige 181 outlet 129-30 Hotel Gogol 181 Maly Drama Theatre 128 Andrey & Sasha’s Knizhnaya Lavka Hotel Indigo 182 Mariinsky II 13, 186, 211 Homestay 181 Pisatelei 97 Mariinsky Concert Hall 109 Angleterre Hotel 180 Kosher Shop 110-11 Mariinsky Theatre 10, 101, Anichkov Pension 178 K Kupetz Eliseevs 13, 96 Apart-Hotel Kronverk 184 109, 213-14, 11, 43, 101 Kempinski Hotel Kuznechny Market 130 Mikhailovsky Opera & Arbat Nord Hotel 183 22 180 Ballet Theatre 94 Manufactory 812 97 Architector Hostel 177 Mariinsky Art Shop 110 Art Hotel 183 252

L P S V Location Hostel 182 Petro Palace Hotel 178 Simple Hostel 177 Vodogray Hotel 178 Pio on Griboyedov 179 Sokos Hotel Vasilyevsky 184 N Pio on Mokhovaya 182 W Soul Kitchen Hostel 180 NasHotel 183-4 Polikoff Hotel 179 W Hotel 179-80

INDEX INDEX Stony Island Hotel 179 Nevsky Breeze Hotel 181 Pushka Inn 178 Nevsky Forum 183 Nils Bed & Breakfast 182 R T SLEEPING Rachmaninov Antique Tim Club 179 Hotel 177-8 Tradition Hotel 184 O Red House Hostel 182 Trezzini Palace Hotel 184 Official State Hermitage Hotel 183 Rossi Hotel 179

Sights 000 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 253 NOTES ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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