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A Symphony of Movement

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A Symphony of Movement TRAVEL A day trip to Saint-Émilion, a medieval town in wine country, offers many unique views, such as this winding street viewed through a vine-covered archway. A tram glides through Bordeaux’s historic city centre as skateboarders and pedestrians go about their daily routine. A symphony of movement Bordeaux offers STORY AND PHOTOS BY LYNN HADDRALL life in this French city, where an opera the appeal of Paris house, palatial hotel and busy pedestrian he gentle ding of an advancing train boulevard intersect. on a smaller scale tells pedestrians to clear the tracks. Inspired rail transit is just one reason People, bicycles, skateboards and beyond wine to visit this old port city. scooters make way for the electric Bordeaux traces its beginnings, and the Ttram that glides into the historic centre of wine industry, to Roman times. It has a Bordeaux. It passes and within seconds the turbulent history of invasions stretching bustle of street life spills over the tracks from Huns and Visigoths to Vikings. France again. and England sparred there for sovereignty. I watched this symphony of movement The city prospered in part on the slave and I marvelled at the soothing flow of trade. 136 GRAND NOVEMBER I DECEMBER 2017 NOVEMBER I DECEMBER 2017 GRAND 137 History you can climb For a view of Bordeaux from on high, climb the 233 steps of Tour Pey Berland next to the Cathédrale Sainte-André. The bell tower was built beside the cathedral to protect the cathedral from bell vibrations. Another impressive view is from the top of La Fleche, a bell tower dating from the 15th century. It’s billed as the second tallest bell tower in France with a viewing area 47 metres high. Not that long ago you could view about 60 naturally mummified bodies there. Visiting author Victor Hugo is among many to reference the macabre Saint-Michel mummies. In 1990, the mummies were given a more dignified resting place in a corner of La Chartreuse cemetery. You can now view video in the tower about the Mummies of Saint-Michel. Reminders of military fortification dot the city and provide more opportunities to walk through history. The Cailhau Gate offers a view 23 metres above the river. The structure was dedicated in the 15th century Today, Bordeaux is a cosmopolitan capital Public spaces to French King Charles VIII. The Grosse with the appeal of Paris but on a smaller, Cloche has an older pedigree, dating to the livable scale. Former merchant mansions I love visiting cities that invest in public 13th century. The bell was rung regularly along the shore of the Garonne River spaces. Bordeaux has gone a step further by to mark special events up until the French provide living, eating and retail space. adding interactivity to many open spaces. Revolution. It was produced in 1775 and is There’s a massive new soccer stadium and Miroir d’eau is a massive reflection pool in rung just a few times a year now. a stunning new shrine to wine. Electric front of the Place de la Bourse, a key piece trams run through the historic centre of waterfront redevelopment. Food without unsightly overhead cables, a costly You can cool down on a hot day by option matching the city’s designation as a running through its water streams or For a different dining experience, head to UNESCO site. All this plus shopping, food, basking in its mist. It juxtaposes modern the Bastide Quarter on the right bank of the museums and the potential for day trips to urban design against the grandeur of Garonne (by car, tram or water taxi) to see wine country. It’s why several travel sites, Versailles-style buildings that are well how Bordeaux is regenerating old buildings such as Lonely Planet, picked Bordeaux as a preserved. and space. top destination to visit in 2017. Parks and neighbourhood squares offer Your destination is Darwin, a trendy area I’ve been fortunate to experience Bordeaux abundant green space and spots to enjoy a that’s a short walk from the Stalingrad tram in the fall and in the spring, visiting baguette and cheese. stop. The rehabilitation project with an en- tourist sites and lesser-known attractions. Enter Jardin Public through its golden vironmental focus started as a local business I’m impressed that the city pays special gates to enjoy quiet time by the pond incubator. Office space and eateries now attention to aesthetics in developing old and towering trees. The English-style occupy the warehouses of a former military dock lands. Here are a few treats to be park covers 11 hectares and dates back to barracks. The Magasin General restaurant savoured on a Bordeaux vacation. 1746. and food market bustles. You can browse ABOVE: Old meets new at the world's largest reflection pool, across from historic Place de la Bourse. Magical streetscapes, like a view of the Porte RIGHT: The Grosse Cloche dates to the 13th century. The 1775 bell weighs 7,800 kilograms. Cailhau, await you around every corner in Bordeaux. 138 GRAND NOVEMBER I DECEMBER 2017 NOVEMBER I DECEMBER 2017 GRAND 139 Medieval streets offer sweet delicacies, like macarons, but different sections – epicerie, fromagerie, in Europe. I don’t doubt it after walking also tricky footing. Be sure to snacks – in an open concept setting with the full length. It’s a lively street scene with wear good shoes if you visit picnic bench seating. chain stores, boutiques and larger depart- Luxury • Contemporary • Vintage Saint-Émilion. Outdoor benches are placed near an ment stores such as Galeries Lafayette. intriguing wooden structure that connects You can get a welcome tax refund on two buildings. As a visual reminder of purchases made in one store if your total energy conservation, this art piece has bill there is more than 175 Euros. If you streaming lights indicating electricity plan to make large purchases or get gifts, it consumption at that moment. makes sense to do it in one place. The store Walk around the complex to see skate- fills out the paperwork (you will need to board parks, temporary housing modules show your passport at the store) and you known as tétrodons, and chicken coops. file for the refund at the airport customs There’s talk of more development at this office on your return flight home. This is spot, which provides a stunning view of old easier to do from a smaller airport such as Bordeaux across the river. Bordeaux compared to the lineups you can You know a restaurant is good when expect at customs offices in Paris airports. there’s only one thing on the menu and High-end designer stores are clustered on locals still line up for it. L’Entrecôte, a Cours de l’Intendance, near the city centre, steakhouse in the city centre, is renowned and on nearby side streets with inner malls. for serving one main course on a set menu French brands mingle with international Where authenticity is always guaranteed. with a salad and fries. It’s a simple formula labels on the wide, elegant boulevard. It’s 640 King St., East Cambridge ON (Preston Town Centre) and highly successful based on reviews I worth a visit even if you are only window 519-212-6824 | www.luxetouchconsignment.com got from locals who are willing to wait for shopping. a table. Smaller neighbourhoods feature lovely Peppone, on Cours Georges Clemenceau, boutiques. One of my favourite shopping specializes in pizzas and pastas. I got a walks is Rue Notre Dame in the Chartrons streetside table early one evening. Lineups district, near the waterfront. This is where later at night are to be expected. The fresh wine merchants built beautiful limestone pasta was divine, the dessert platter even buildings in the 18th and 19th centuries. more so. They now house apartments, funky You can’t leave Bordeaux without trying a boutiques, antique stores, bistros and cafes. canelé. This rum-flavoured pastry origi- For truly French purchases, drop by Do nated here and can be found on breakfast, You Speak Français?, a concept store that lunch and dessert menus. Patisseries spe- only sells goods made in France. cialize in original flavours and new variants. To stroll the waterfront while shopping, Locals are quick to recommend that you head to the Quai des Marques, a pedestrian sample these little fluted cakes that feature a promenade along the Garonne River. caramelized crust and chewy interior. Take You will find discount retail outlets and a few home for gifts. coffee shops plus views of the river and its bridges. You’ll be joined by joggers who Shopping are running eight kilometres between the bridges, cyclists and skateboarders. There Bordeaux is a shopper’s dream with may be a cruise liner docked nearby. high-end designer stores, funky indepen- dent boutiques, large department stores and street markets. Sports Rue Sainte-Catherine is said to be the If you can’t see a soccer game while in longest outdoor pedestrian shopping street Bordeaux, you can get an insider’s tour of 140 GRAND NOVEMBER I DECEMBER 2017 NOVEMBER I DECEMBER 2017 GRAND 141 The Monument aux Girondins is the towering used to driving around them. centrepiece of a massive city square known as Garonne River Transit utopia It’s just a one-hour flight to Bordeaux from Place des Quinconces. While quadric horse-fish and its bridges spray water from their noses, the nearby transit hub I rode the electric train (known as the Paris. The Bordeaux train station provides offers affordable quick transit for the area.
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