© Phovoir/CDT Gironde le littoral médoc nord le littoral médoc sud le tour du bassin d’arcachon du bassin d’arcachon au canal de garonne de bordeaux à lacanau de bordeaux à sauveterre-de-guyenne © Philippe ROY / CIVB / ROY Philippe © BORDEAUX OPT LE DR Sommary BoRDEAUX Page 3 Arcachon bay & the Médoc coast Page 6 Wine tourisme Page 13 Wanderings Page 17 UNESCo & heritage Page 20 Estuary Page 23 Events Page 28 Contact : Photo de couverture : Couple dans les vignes - Phovoir/CDT Gironde Karin LABARDIN Anne QUIMBRE Réalisé par le Comité Départemental du Tourisme de la Gironde. + 33 (0)5 56 48 91 27 + 33 (0)5 56 48 68 16 Directeur de Publication : Jean-Marie Darmian, Président délégué du Comité Départemental du Tourisme de la Gironde. [email protected] [email protected] Rédaction : Les Pipelettes Conception graphique et cartographie : E. Parent Impression : Graphit’s © Phovoir/CDT Gironde © Phovoir/CDT Bordeaux “A Sunday morning on the Quais des Chartrons. The weather is good, it’s a market day. People everywhere: along the stalls, on the quays, roller-skating or cycling along the quays. Oyster farmers offer tasting sessions: I wait for my oysters, bathed in sunshine, listening to a small jazz orchestra. A holiday feeling.”. Bordeaux is a rebirth – just like its quays given back to the Bordelais, its river rediscovered, classical façades that have regained their fairness. A miracle of elegance that, since 2007, has been on the UNESCo World Heritage List: a listed area of 1,810 hectares, the 18th- century heart of the city, the stalls quarter, the Mériadeck quarter and its 1970s buildings, and wet docks. As well as a record number of 350 buildings listed as Historical Monuments. Favourite . 3:00 p.m.: the barge casts off form the Quai de Queyries. The camera is ready – we’re going to be dazzled! There, the Pont de Pierre and the spires of Saint Michael’s Church, then 18th-century Bordeaux, the Place de la Bourse laid out by Gabriel, the Place des Quinconces; here, Les Chartrons, the quarter formerly inhabited by wine merchants, today home to antiquaries and artists. Cruises with “Burdigala”, “Aliénor II”, and “Sorellina”. Reservations via the Tourist Office web site www.bordeaux-tourisme.com or via the Gironde Tourist Board Tel. +33 (0)5 56 52 61 40 P. 3 Portrait The best time to meet Michel Portos? In the morning, before the kitchen Michel Portos rush: the chef of the Saint-James, holder of a Michelin star, voted Chef of the Year 2012 by Gault et Millau, is a man in constant movement. He the musketeer of Bouliac has the tight physique of a marathon runner, mischievous eyes behind slim glasses, and he admits to liking change and the ephemeral: ‘A dish never remains on the menu for more than two months, and it never returns. We have put together 380 recipes in five years!’ This Marseillais draws inspiration from the countries that he crosses in a frenzy: Asia, North Africa, Mexico, etc. A mixture of flavours that he uses to sprinkle on his inventive and inspired cooking: watermelon with chorizo, foie gras Moroccan-style, red kuri squash, wakame with sesame and caviar… It causes a shudder to think that Michel was intended for another calling: his father wanted him to become a chartered accountant, he dreamt of motorcycles… It was his mother’s bouillabaisse that gave him a taste for cooking. What a relief! That’s clever The Saint-James, Allow yourself a three-day break 3 place Camille Hostein, to get to know the capital of the Gironde region. 33270 Bouliac. The programme includes a city tour, a free pass for main Tel. +33 (0)5 57 97 06 00. museums and monuments, an escapade to a vineyard with www.saintjames-bouliac.com. a tasting session. A practical touch: five free journeys on the M : €45 (lunch), €65, €132. city’s public transport. And a nice touch: a tasting at the€ 105CIVB in wine bar. Forfait Découverte for 3 days / 2 nights: from a double room in a 2-star hotel. Valid all year round. The CAPC museum Head for the museums they’re free! The Musée des Beaux Arts with its Gallery, and paintings by Brueghel, Corot, Matisse, Albert Marquet, etc., the Musée des Arts Déco in the beautiful Lalande building, the history of Bordeaux told at the Musée d’Aquitaine, and the CAPC’s collections of contemporary art, installed in a former warehouse for foodstuffs from the colonies. www.bordeaux-tourisme.com © Philippe ROY / CIVB / ROY Philippe © © CAPC Going away with... favourite Time for a coffee break? A Oh, for the taste of a A cocooning break: my choice is the Hôtel Particulier, a can(n)elé (with one brand new address in a classy 19th- “n” or or two, just as century house. Three rooms named for musicians, 2 suites and 3 apartments, you please). Inimitable all with a decor that is at once classic, chic, and minimalist. Pascale Daney and never equalled, it and her daughter spoil me at breakfast on the terrace and at the table d’hôtes. was born in 18th-century Bordeaux. You can recognise Right in the heart of Old Bordeaux – practical for tours and shopping! it by its cylindrical shape, its filling, soft inside, From €160. 44 Rue Vital Carles. crunchy outside, flavoured with rum and vanilla: it’s Tel. +33 (0)5 57 88 28 80 – all because of whites of egg being used to “filter” wine, www.lhotel-particulier.com which left lots of unused yolks! Pick them up in all the best patisseries. Le cannelé, ce mystère nommé désir, Isabelle Bunisset, éditions Féret, 2008 P.4 Wine bar Go there with... François, Anne and Ludo every day at the CIVB* bar,they offer about thirty wines priced at between €2 and €8 a glass. Snacks are available – and the setting is first-class: a handsome 18th-century building given a minimalist makeover. Become experts on the wines of Bordeaux! CIVB © 3 Cours du XXX Juillet, Bordeaux – Tel. +33 (0)5 56 00 43 47 *Conseil Interprofessionnel du Vin de Bordeaux (Interprofessional Council for Bordeaux Wine) ©Bordeaux Monumental ©Bordeaux A family outing: roller-skating along the quays and the pedestrianised ©Assoair streets in the heart of the city. Moreover, the kit is on Bordeaux is amazing loan and an introductory session is provided. It’s on the first Sunday of each month at 11:00 a.m. At the bottom of the Allées de Tourny www.assoair.com is a bronze relief map: Allow yourself a three-day break Children the city has another two. The relief maps were put in place for the use of sight-impaired visitors, who, at the Tourist 28 rue des Argentiers, Office, can also obtain a tourist guide in Braille. For visitors who are mobility- and hearing-impaired, three city tours in front of Bordeaux Monumental are on offer. In addition to the “Tourisme et Handicap” label, Bordeaux is the pilot city for the future “Destination Burdigalo awaits. A leading figure, Burdigalo is a corsair, a friend to children and a specialist in treasure pour Tous” label, which aims to raise consciousness hunts. Follow him through historic Bordeaux: Saint- amongst all the actors of the tourism sector. Pierre quarter, Saint Michael’s Basilica, the ramparts, Cailhau Gate… Each stage offers a mystery for all the Head for the museums family to solve – with a surprise at the end! A hearty appetite € 5 for a two-hour visit. Place de la Bourse, opposite the In James’s footsteps: ornamental pond. a booklet just for 7-to-12-year-olds, with pictures to On the second floor of the old Chamber colour in, charades, and crosswords. On the trail of of Commerce building are a set of 18th- James, a young pilgrim on the Ways of Saint James. century rooms with views over the Garonne: Published by the Heritage Department, a little guide Gabriel is THE restaurant for gourmands. The set out in 13 clever, playful sections: €1. kitchen is run by François Adamski, a winner for Bordeaux Monumental, Tel. +33 (0)5 56 48 04 24 the Bocuse d’Or, holder of the MOF (Meilleur Ouvrier de France) title, trained at the Ritz and at Other tours available from the Tourist Office web site: Bordeaux is the first city to have been awarded the the Plaza Athénée. Dishes include products from “Famille Plus” label. South-Western France: oysters from Cap Ferret, caviar from Aquitaine, foie gras, all emphasised by the proven talent of this Michelin-star holder. Menu: from €50 to €95. If you don’t want to break your piggy bank, head for the Bistrot and its brasserie atmosphere on Memo the first floor – an excellent menu is on offer for - Go antique-hunting in the €28. You must book, because it’s packed! - It’s the first Sunday of Village des Antiquaires, about In the morning, 10 Place de la Bourse, Bordeaux. the month. sixty shops set around the Rue blend art and wine at the Notre-Dame, in the heart of Tel. +33 (0)5 56 30 00 80 www.bordeaux-gabriel.fr Grand Théâtre: a jazz or the Chartrons quarter. classical concert, followed by a tasting of a Bordeaux wine - Give yourself half a day Saturday morning in Bordeaux’s appellation. € in the vineyards: discover €6. Tasting pass: 4. oldest gastronomic restaurant. Concert: appellations, visit estates A studious atmosphere in the kitchens, which Tel. +33 (0)5 56 00 85 20 that produce grand cru classé revolve around Nicolas Frion, who was formerly wines, visit family-owned with Thierry Marx.