Lynn Peak Lookout (April 19 2015)

BMN HIKE REPORT Lynn Peak Lookout (April 19 2015) by Mark Johnston Lunch stop at Lynn Peak Lookout. Chloe Tu photo. When driving north over the Iron Workers Memorial Bridge, you see before you a well-timbered ridge separating the valleys of Lynn Creek and the Seymour River. At the southern end of this ridge, there are a couple of high points of virtually the same elevation which topographical maps identify as Lynn Peaks. Farther north along the ridge is a series of three bumps, collectively known as The Needles. Our objective on this hike was to climb to the panoramic lookout near the top of the first high point and then, as time and interest allowed, to go beyond the viewpoint to the first “summit.” On a clear, sunny morning, nine of us carpooled to Lynn Headwaters Regional Park in North Vancouver. We parked in the second parking lot and, when ready, dropped down a flight of wooden stairs to the Varley Trail below. This beautiful trail, named after Group of Seven artist Frederick Varley, runs along Lynn Creek and links with the park entrance. Varley lived in upper Lynn Valley in the 1930s and over a five-year period painted such local features as Lynn Peak, Rice Lake, Grouse Mountain and Mount Seymour. As we walked the wide path along the creek beneath sheltering cedar and hemlock, and delighted in glimpses of the water rushing over bleached rocks and gathering in transparent green pools, it was easy to understand why Varley had found this place so enchanting. Past the entrance we crossed Lynn Creek at its ruined waterworks and headed counterclockwise on the Lynn Loop Trail. We stayed with this trail for 1.2 km—already gaining elevation—and then turned off onto the Lynn Peak Trail. This latter trail rises steadily to the ridge top, mostly in one long traverse, only switchbacking just before reaching the crest. The route is very rocky and the possibility of turning an ankle ever present. With the latter possibility in mind, we took our time, hiking at a measured pace. But our slowly-but- surely approach paid dividends, and upon reaching the ridge top we had our first distant view, in this case east toward the communication towers on the lower slopes of Mount Seymour. Hiking the rocky route to the ridge top. Chloe Tu photo. Now that we were on the ridge top, we found that the grade eased a little, and we soon entered what has been called the “Enchanted Forest.” This section of forest, which was spared the logger’s saw, contains fine specimens of old-growth fir and cedar. We saw a couple of Douglas-fir trees that are more than two metres across, one of them right on the trail. This trailside fir is growing beside a cedar of similar diameter. We spent several minutes in their company, imagining what the coastal forests of yesteryear must have been like. Approaching the "Enchanted Forest." Chloe Tu photo. Just beyond the old growth we entered its opposite, a relatively recently logged area. In the early 1960s Hurricane Frieda blew down a number of trees here, and soon thereafter logging operations were underway in an effort to salvage some of the windfall. In the middle of this recovering forest, we arrived at the “Blimp Lookout.” Due to the steep slopes, the logging had been done with the use of a dirigible. What is now the lookout was formerly the place where the balloon had been tethered. Although new growth has begun to obscure the view, we could see across the Seymour Valley to Dog Mountain, Suicide Bluffs, and the snow- covered peaks of Seymour Mountain. Farther up the trail we drifted over to the west side of the ridge top and had good views across Lynn Creek toward Mount Fromme and the Kennedy Creek drainage below Thunderbird and Goat ridges. From the west side of the ridge top, looking across Lynn Creek toward Mount Fromme and Thunderbird and Goat ridges. Terry Puls photo. As we neared our initial destination, we re-entered old growth and marvelled at the large amabalis fir and mountain hemlock. Being at the transition zone between western and mountain hemlock, I remembered that there had been speculation as to whether an apparently record-sized “mountain” hemlock growing on the slopes of Mount Strachan might actually be a hybrid. I wondered whether some of the trees we were looking at might be hybrids as well. Moments later we reached the lookout. A few parties had already staked out spots to sit and have lunch, but we had no trouble finding places of our own on the spacious rock bluff. We were treated to an expansive view looking back across the Ironworkers Bridge and out over much of Greater Vancouver, and then beyond the city to the San Juan and Gulf islands and the distant Olympic Mountains. Trees blocked any prospects east and west toward neighbouring ridges, except if one walked toward the edge of the bluff, where limited views might be obtained. As we lunched a raven spoke in guttural tones. Nearing the summit of "South Lynn Peak." Chloe Tu photo. Satiated with the views, seven of us decided to push on farther up the ridge to see what we could see. We quickly attained the summit of the first high point, sometimes referred to as “South Lynn Peak.” The summit is treed, but by seeking out sight lines we were able to make out the general contours of the ridge all the way to The Needles. From where we stood, our route would have taken us steeply down to a col between the two Lynn Peaks, and as further travel along the ridge would have meant substantial cumulative elevation gain, we decided not to continue in our northward direction but reverse course and head down the mountain. Although our descent took less time, it was by no means speedy. We paused at each of the lower viewpoints for one last look. We also took considerable care on the rockier sections of trail. Even after regaining the valley bottom, we were in no particular hurry, deciding to forswear the shortest route back and retrace our steps along the Varley Trail, now with new appreciation for the wonders that had captured the celebrated painter’s imagination three-quarters of a century before. For some of us it had been awhile since we had been to Lynn Headwaters. Given our latest experience of this special place, it won’t be nearly as long before we return! .

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