THE BUSINESS OF BEAUTY

HOW THE VERY DRIVEN PHILIP SHEARER IS POWERING CLARINS FORWARD ...

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CHINA’S METROSEXUAL MANIFESTO MEETING OF THE MINDS KEY TAKEAWAYS FROM THE WWD BEAUTY CEO SUMMIT THE NEW WAVE photographed by Peter Gabriel WWDBEAUTY INC 3

FEATURES 20 D r i v i n g Force Putting the pedal to the metal, seasoned ceo and race car enthusiast Philip Shearer is fueling CONTENTS Clarins towards the number-one spot in the global prestige skin care market. 26 C l e a n Cut In China, the metrosexual is alive, well and extremely interested in personal grooming. Casey Hall reports from Shanghai on the new dynamic that’s having a profound impact on the beauty industry. 30 N e w Day Dawning Dealing with the challenges of a rapidly changing world was a key theme at the WWD Beauty CEO Summit held in May. Here, the top takeaways from beauty’s foremost meeting of the minds. DEPARTMENTS CORNER OFFICE 6 M a s t e r Class: Natural Wonder With her namesake beauty brand, entrepreneur Jane Iredale has helped propel mineral makeup from a product into a powerhouse. 8 M y First Job: Joan Lasker The TouchBack creator shares lessons learned from her beginnings as a beauty editor at Vogue. 9 B l a c k Book: Lori Singer The group vice president of global marketing at Coty Prestige reveals her favorite business and pleasure picks. BEAUTY BULLETIN 12 W e l l Rounded Whether for skin, hair or body, oils have been anointed as this summer’s hottest format. 13 L a u n c h Window The coolest products currently launching. 15 P a r i s Attractions Jennifer Weil visits the newest beauty boutiques in the City of Light. CONSUMER CHRONICLES 16 F r o m Sin City to Shopping Mecca Rachel Brown hits Las Vegas’ Fashion Show Mall in search of a new look. 18 S h o p p e r Stalker Who’s buying what—and why. MISC Jenna, Virginie, Prisca and 34 P e r f o r m a n c e Goals Talking star power with Face Claire Courtin- Stockholm’s Martina Arfwidson. Clarins, the third generation of the storied beauty dynasty. To discover where ceo Philip Shearer ON THE COVER: Philip Shearer photographed exclusively is taking the for WWD Beauty Inc at Le Castellet by Lorenzo Agius. Grooming company, turn to by Delphine Boyer. Production by Atelier Management. page 20. PHOTO BY STEVE EICHNER STEVE BY PHOTO

WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2012 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. a"er the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 203, NO. 124. Saturday, June 16, 2012. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with new subscription will be mailed within four weeks a"er receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 one additional issue in May, June, October and December, and two additional issues in February, March, April, August, September and November) by Fairchild Fashion Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax the request to 212-630-5883. For reprints of articles, please contact The Media, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S.I. YGS Group at 800-501-9571 or via e-mail at [email protected]. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive O!cer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, Chief Operating O!cer & Chief Financial on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that o#er products and services O!cer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative O!cer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing o!ces. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these o#ers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P.O. Box 503, RPO 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615 5008. UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. Subscribers: If the Post O!ce alerts us that NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE.

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EDWARD NARDOZA EDITOR IN CHIEF, WWD

EDITOR’S LETTER PETE BORN EXECUTIVE EDITOR, BEAUTY JENNY B. FINE EDITOR

JENNIFER WEIL EUROPEAN EDITOR JULIE NAUGHTON SENIOR PRESTIGE MARKET BEAUTY EDITOR The Need for Speed MOLLY PRIOR BEAUTY FINANCIAL EDITOR FAYE BROOKMAN CONTRIBUTING EDITOR BELISA SILVA BEAUTY MARKET EDITOR, MASS hen Philip Shearer agreed to be photographed with his JAYME CYK EDITORIAL ASSISTANT new $225,000 Radical Sportscars racer, capable of going TIFFANY MEGNATH EDITORIAL INTERN KATIE KRETSCHMER COPY EDITOR from zero to 60 m.p.h. in 2.7 seconds, the opportunity ART was irresistible. The car presents the perfect metaphor for BARBARA SULLIVAN ART DIRECTOR Shearer’s career track. Currently the chief executive officer CONTRIBUTORS Wof Groupe Clarins, Shearer is a seasoned industry executive, one for whom SAMANTHA CONTI AND NINA JONES (London), MILES SOCHA (Paris), speed, agility and a firm fixation on the finish line (not to mention the KERRY OLSEN (Milan), MARCY MEDINA AND RACHEL BROWN (Los Angeles), MELISSA DRIER AND SUSAN STONE (Berlin), AMANDA KAISER (Tokyo) bottom line) have become hallmarks of his approach to business. His tenure at Clarins, which he joined four years ago, has already been PHOTO CARRIE PROVENZANO PHOTO EDITOR marked by a number of milestones: strategic expansion of the company’s digital LEXIE MORELAND ASSOCIATE PHOTO EDITOR operations, significant paydown of a $1 billion loan incurred when Clarins went JENNA GREENE ASSISTANT PHOTO EDITOR ERIN FITZGERALD STUDIO MANAGER private in 2008 and a reconception of the product line that has led to a jolt in sales. EILEEN TSUJI PHOTO COORDINATOR ROBERT COHEN PHOTO FACILITATOR Now, Shearer has set a bold goal: to make Clarins the number-one brand JOHN AQUINO, GEORGE CHINSEE, STEVE EICHNER, KYLE ERICKSEN, in the global prestige skin care market. To achieve that, Shearer and his team THOMAS IANNACCONE, ROBERT MITRA PHOTOGRAPHERS will have to power the brand to at least $1.6 billion in sales for 2012, CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS 30 percent higher than three years ago. Shearer slowed down recently to RUVEN AFANADOR, KENJI AOKI, DAN BORRIS, NIGEL DICKSON, BEN HASSETT, HENRY LEUTWYLER, MARK HANAUER, MICHAEL NAGLE, reveal to Pete Born how he plans on powering the company to that goal. JEFF RIEDEL, PHILIPPE SALOMON, DAVID LEWIS TAYLOR, YASU+JUNKO Read about his strategy in “Driving Force” on page 20. Shearer isn’t the only driven executive in the beauty business. At the 2012 BEAUTY INC ADVERTISING PAUL JOWDY VICE PRESIDENT, PUBLISHER, WWD WWD Beauty CEO Summit, held at The Breakers in Palm Beach in May, the JILL BIREN WEST COAST DIRECTOR COURTNEY HAZIRJIAN WEST COAST ACCOUNT MANAGER message was clear: Beauty’s top leaders are clearly focused on capitalizing on ODILE EDA-PIERRE ACCOUNT MANAGER, PARIS the opportunities created by the sociocultural, digital and economic revolutions MARKETING/CREATIVE SERVICES that have rocked the world over the past three years. “Our world has changed JANET MENAKER EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, MARKETING very profoundly and very quickly,” said Jean-Paul Agon, ceo of L’Oréal, as he laid EMILY CORTEZ CREATIVE SERVICES DIRECTOR KRISTEN M. WILDMAN EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, EVENT MARKETING out his manifesto for meeting the changes head-on. For insight into the six key MARJORIE KEATING PUBLIC RELATIONS DIRECTOR DANIELLE MCMURRAY DIRECTOR, INTEGRATED MARKETING AND SPECIAL PROJECTS takeaways from our biannual meeting of beauty’s most strategic thinkers, turn JENNIFER PINCUS DIRECTOR, INTEGRATED MARKETING to “New Day Dawning” on page 30. FABIO SALLES CREATIVE DIRECTOR JULIA DONAHUE COPY DIRECTOR Naturally, China was top of mind at the BRIANNA LIPOVSKY SENIOR MARKETING MANAGER summit, and on our minds this month JENNIFER BORCK SENIOR MANAGER, INTEGRATED MARKETING KRISTIN MOONEY MANAGER, EVENT MARKETING KEY POINTS as well. Specifically, an emerging group JAMIE RUDOLPH MANAGER, EVENT MARKETING FROM THIS ISSUE of beauty converts caught our eye—the ALISSA GROSS ASSOCIATE MANAGER, INTEGRATED MARKETING 5 JESSICA CASEY ASSOCIATE MANAGER, INTEGRATED MARKETING du shi yu nan, or “city jade men.” In the DANIELLE K. STEWART COORDINATOR, INTEGRATED MARKETING 1. TAKING ADVANTAGES LEIGH ALCOTT MARKETING COORDINATOR The enormous sociocultural U.S., we would call them metrosexuals, a group of young men for whom good PRODUCTION changes of the recent past have GENA KELLY VICE PRESIDENT, MANUFACTURING created myriad opportunities for grooming is a key means of getting CHRIS WENGIEL GROUP PRODUCTION DIRECTOR the beauty industry. Page 30 ahead, both in their love life and their KEVIN HURLEY PRODUCTION DIRECTOR JILL BREINER ASSOCIATE PRODUCTION MANAGER professional métiers. Collectively, these 2. THINKING BIG CIRCULATION Clarins’ ceo Philip Shearer is guys are helping fuel growth in China’s ELLEN DEALY SENIOR EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR looking to make the company men’s market, which is increasing at JOHN CROSS PLANNING AND OPERATIONS DIRECTOR PEGGY PYLE MARKETING DIRECTOR number one in global prestige three times that of its female counterpart. SUZANNE BERARDI SENIOR ONLINE MANAGER skin care. Page 20 In “Clean Cut” on page 26, Casey Hall ALISON CHRISTIE ASSISTANT MARKETING MANAGER meets some of Shanghai’s resident hunks, 3. THE METROSEXUAL LIVES FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA Men’s grooming products have and reports on how the grooming market WILL SCHENCK CHIEF REVENUE OFFICER SUZANNE REINHARDT VICE PRESIDENT, FINANCE & OPERATIONS become a key business driver in is expected to develop. Elsewhere in this DAN SHAR VICE PRESIDENT, GENERAL MANAGER, DIGITAL China. Page 26 issue, we have an in-depth interview with MELISSA BRECHER VICE PRESIDENT, MARKETING & COMMUNICATIONS MICHAEL ATMORE EDITORIAL DIRECTOR, FOOTWEAR NEWS & DIRECTOR OF BRAND DEVELOPMENT mineral makeup pioneer Jane Iredale 4. DRILLING FOR OIL DEVON BEEMER FINANCE DIRECTOR and an undercover visit to the Fashion TANYA DAVIS BUSINESS ANALYST Thanks to the success of argan JANET JANOFF BUSINESS MANAGER oil, the hottest new product Show Mall in Las Vegas. In August, format is slick indeed. Page 12 we’ll return with our annual ranking NANCY BUTKUS CREATIVE DIRECTOR of beauty’s top 100 companies. In the 5. OPENING THE JEWEL BOX PETER W. KAPLAN EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Paris’ newest beauty boutiques meantime, I welcome your feedback and are small, charming and stocked views on our industry at jenny_fine@ GINA SANDERS PRESIDENT & CEO with hard-to-find lines. Page 15 fairchildfashion.com. —JENNY B. FINE

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“There’s a lot less stress in our company MASTER CLASS because we don’t have someone looking over us. If we want to try something and it doesn’t work, no big deal. Natural Wonder We just move on to the next thing.” With a firm belief in both independence and -JANE IREDALE innovation, mineral makeup maven Jane Iredale has built a beauty empire. BY MOLLY PRIOR PHOTOGRAPHED BY MICHAEL NAGLE

ane Iredale describes her modus operandi in one word: improve. It’s an impulse that drove her to formulate a mineral foundation back in 1994 when she was a film producer and noticed that many actresses were having skin issues. In so doing, she not only launched her business, but also a Jcategory—mineral makeup—which has since exploded into a key color segment. Improvement has also propelled her to funnel a passion for health and wellness into an estimated $135 million mineral makeup empire, which grew 15 percent over the last two years, according to industry sources. Today, her namesake line includes some 400 products sold in boutiques, salons and spas across more than 50 countries around the globe. The company continues to go it alone, eschewing outside investors, in what Iredale calls “a sea of icebergs.”

There was an explosion of mineral makeup in 2007. Where do you see the category headed now? It’s had an evolution since 1994, when we brought out our line and Bare Minerals introduced its line the same year. We were considered to be a niche brand. And then we became the trend. With the explosion in 2007, we became a category. Now, we’ve become mainstream. Almost every brand is incorporating mineral makeup into their line. It’s now being used as a marketing term to interest the consumer. Mineral makeup is just part of the makeup [category] in general. It’s confusing for consumers because they don’t really understand what is a true mineral makeup. I wish consumers read ingredients and labels more.

What is your assessment of the industry overall? We are in a period of real change, and I believe the mineral makeup category has helped to affect that change. The industry is being forced to innovate to satisfy consumer demands. That’s a really good thing, because it has forced us to be more transparent and make sure everyone can access our ingredients quickly and easily. On our Web site, Jane Iredale attended New York University, and later obtained her master’s degree in every product has the ingredient list next to it. We’ve done IN BRIEF English and Philosophy at the University at Albany-SUNY. She started her career in that right from the beginning, because we are very proud of the entertainment industry, working first as a casting director and then as a writer and producer in both our ingredients and the way we formulate. The industry is New York and Los Angeles. She le! film, television and theater behind, though, to introduce the mineral starting to have to move toward that sort of transparency. foundation Amazing Base in 1994. She currently runs her independently owned business from the quaint town of Great Barrington, Mass., where the company’s campus comes complete with organic gardens and What opportunities excite you the most and why? a dog-friendly policy. She lives in town with her husband and two dogs, Ceilidh and Christmas Cookie. Technology and the science that’s now available to us—for

example, products can now actually adjust to your skin’s CHINSEE GEORGE BY PHOTO

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needs—that’s very exciting. The other thing that I their profession want to make sure their clients are People respond to that. They like to know a good find rewarding every day is the ability to interact leaving the spa or salon with home care products. job is appreciated. It inspires other people as well. with our consumers. It used to be through focus We just launched our new beauty gallery, which for I tend to be noncombative. I don’t like a lot of groups. With our brand, we were always selling the first time puts all of our line on one display. It’s a controversy. I work better in a peaceful, harmonious through aestheticians or makeup artists or doctors little retail magnet, and we’ve seen sales at accounts environment. We live in a tiny town with 6,800 to the consumer. So, we didn’t really have feedback double in a short period of time. people. We are surrounded by organic farms. We from the customer. Now, we get feedback 24 hours have gardens all over our company campus. We are a day from all over the world because we sell in 50 Your company is an independent in a sea of giants. a dog-friendly company. We have an environment countries. What I’ve learned is that the consumer How does that impact how you run your business? that is fairly relaxed. I think of myself as one of the wants to be herself, only better. Makeup is her I see it as a sea of independents floating around gang, but I also know the buck stops here. After private ritual, and she wants to look the best she can. some great big icebergs, and we are sort of chipping the discussions take place, I don’t have any trouble The confidence that the right makeup gives her is away at the ice. We’re able to move much faster making a decision. such an important part of it. Recently I was doing and be more nimble so I can respond to consumer a seminar in Sweden and I was talking about these How do you stay close to the needs and wants scientific studies on how the better we feel about the of your consumer? way we look, the better our immune systems are. I I do a lot of traveling. I recently went to six was approached afterward by a woman who said she Some recent countries, including Russia and all of Scandinavia launches from had had a double mastectomy. She said, “When I put Jane Iredale. and China, where I did seminars and events and met my wig and makeup on, I feel ready and open for with distributors and the press. I got a lot of input anything.” Appearance plays such an important part from that. Through our social media site, we get a in the way we feel physically. lot of reviews on our products and I read them all. We also get a lot questions through the Internet and What do you think the industry needs to pay I try to answer every one. I like to think of our town attention to in the year ahead? as a walking focus group because wherever I go, I sit on the board of the Independent Cosmetic someone will approach me and say, “Have you ever Manufacturers & Distributors. The industry needs thought of making this?” or say, “I didn’t like this.” to pay attention to what’s happening with product It’s reached the point now where if I want some regulation. That’s the number-one issue. Both peace I put on dark sunglasses and a hat and try to the Personal Care Products Council and ICMAD go incognito. I have input coming at me from all are at the forefront of making sure the industry directions and at all times. is represented properly. Regulations that are too limiting are going to curtail innovation and vastly Do you believe in mentors? impact small companies. Some of the regulations I’ve never had a mentor. There are some people who want ingredients to be listed down to parts per do well with mentors. I tend to be inspired by people million. Natural products are much more complex who I admire. Someone who I find totally awe- than synthetic products. They may have 20 to 25 inspiring is Meryl Streep. She’s said, “I’ve always more aspects of an ingredient that have to be listed been my own tower of strength.” I think about on a product label. As well-meaning as some of that phrase a lot. In that sense, she’s been a long- these bills are, there isn’t always a full appreciation distance mentor. Also, my mother was always very of what it means to the industry as a whole. demands, if I hear them often enough, very quickly. encouraging and didn’t push me to get married and There’s a lot less stress in our company because we have children. When I was a teenager, I remember What do you make of the current distribution don’t have someone looking over us. If we want I was looking in the mirror—probably worrying landscape, and what retail opportunities are most to try something and it doesn’t work, no big deal. about a zit—and my mother was telling me to do significant for the brand? We just move on to the next thing. I hope we can something, and I turned around to her and said, The smaller retail opportunities, where they have stay this way, and do our own thing. It seems to be “Mother, let me make my own mistakes.” And I an aesthetician or makeup artist on staff, interest working so far. I started the company with $10,000, think I have learned from my mistakes. me most. Our brand is better off in the hands of and all of our growth has been supported from sales. people who know skin and that’s why we started out We haven’t had to go outside for help. I am hoping What do you like to do for fun? in the professional world. But there are more and we can keep innovating and bringing out new I like to garden, and cook the produce from the more places that incorporate [service]. Ulta does products… and do it our way. garden. I am a very big fan of Alice Waters and I love that, for example. And there are smaller versions, the slow food movement. I also walk my dogs, which like Pharmaca in California. Retail is becoming so How would you describe your management style I adore. I do play some golf. And I like to travel. much more a part of peoples’ lives no matter where and how has it evolved? Another thing that I really love to do is renovate they are. It’s such a moneymaking opportunity for I think I started out running everything old buildings. Part of that came out of building our the spa, the salon or the clinic, partly because what democratically. First of all, there were only two company’s little campus. As we needed more space, a woman does when she goes home is even more of us. Now, I like to think of my style as more of a we’d take on an old building and renovate it. I love

PHOTO BY GEORGE CHINSEE GEORGE BY PHOTO important than at the spa. People dedicated to meritocracy, where you need to earn your place. improving things.

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AHA! MOMENT ON THE MOVE

1994 JILL GRANOFF has been named chief executive MAC Viva Glam o!cer of Kellwood Co., where she will oversee brands such as Vince, Rebecca Taylor, Created by Frank Toskan Phat Farm and Sag Harbor. Grano" was most By the early Nineties, AIDS and its impact had cast a shadow on the recently ceo of Kenneth Cole Productions beauty industry. and spent 17 years in the beauty “Several people in the industry had contracted AIDS, and few industry. At Kellwood, she will were doing anything about it,” recalls Frank Toskan, who cofounded report to CHRISTOPHER T. METZ, MAC Cosmetics with Frank Angelo. “We couldn’t turn our head managing director of Sun Capital away from it. It was right in front of us.” Partners, which bought the JILL GRANOFF The pair brainstormed how to raise funds to fight the disease, and company for $762 million in February 2008... turned to their bestselling item—lipstick—for the answer. Thus was LIONEL DE BENETTI has le! his post as director born Viva Glam. Every cent of the $14.50 selling price is donated to of research and laboratories at Groupe Clarins. the MAC Aids Fund, which serves people affected by HIV and AIDS; A!er 36 years at the company, he’s become today, the franchise consists of 10 products, the latest a bold pink president of the scientific commission within lipstick and lip conditioner fronted by Nicki Minaj and Ricky Martin. Clarins’ supervisory board. Meanwhile, ERIC Toskan patterned the first Viva Glam lipstick after MAC’s most GOORIS has become director of research. He Frank Toskan in the early popular shade, Russian Red, and tapped an unlikely spokesperson was formerly director of Clarins’ laboratories... Nineties, above, to promote it: drag queen RuPaul. “I created the best color I MARTIN KAUFMANN has been named and the original possibly could,” says Toskan. general manager of Aveda North Viva Glam, at right. But the concept wasn’t wholeheartedly embraced by all, at first. Some of MAC’s America, replacing EMMANUEL REY, retail partners were leery of linking their nameplates with AIDS. Plus, MAC who has le# the company. Most demanded retailers forgo their share of the profit on Viva Glam lipsticks. “We said recently an industry consultant, MARTIN to them, ‘You have to take what we offer, otherwise you strip us down and we no Kaufmann has also served as KAUFMANN longer have a conscience,’” says Toskan. “Sometimes you just have to take a stand.” managing director for Procter & That stand has since grown into a movement—continued today by MAC’s parent Gamble Professional Care North America... company, the Estée Lauder Cos.—that has generated nearly $250 million. ARTEMIS PATRICK, most recently vice president “I never dreamed that it would be so successful. It gives me faith,” says Toskan. of e-commerce merchandising at Sephora “I learned that people are naturally willing to help. They just may need someone to Americas, has been named general manager of nudge them once in awhile.” —MOLLY PRIOR Sephora inside J.C. Penney. E CHINSEE RG EO G ODUCT PHOTOS BY BY PHOTOS ODUCT

MY FIRST JOB R Joan Lasker: From Editorial Assistant to Entrpreneur My first real job was at Vogue in 1974, as secretary to the the Vogue shoe closet. After each season was marketing director. Multiple times a day, my boss presented photographed, we were allowed to take a few Vogue’s “point of view” for the coming season to department pairs home. For everything else, we went to all HEADSHOT BY STEPHEN LEEK; P STEPHEN BY HEADSHOT store executives and buyers. In my third week, my boss got the sample sales and bought the same things, R JOAN LASKER the flu. I volunteered to give the presentations. Within the which sometimes made it seem like there was a

founder, TouchBack LASKE ES;

year, I was promoted to editorial credits editor and then signature Vogue “uniform.” My favorite collection G A beauty editor. (Vera Wang was on the other side of the was YSL’s Russian collection in 1976. Huge IM room, assisting senior fashion director Polly Mellen.) Some lessons learned swaths of opulent fabric. Full skirts. Fur. ES/GETTY ES/GETTY in my five years there: Arrive early. Stay late. Take chances. Persist. On the opposite side of the spectrum, I R ICTU I was a beauty editor at Vogue from 1977 to 1979. My first assignment as also liked Halston—elegant and simple. P IFE beauty editor was to report on all the different types of massages. I spent In 1980, I was recruited by L’Oréal to L E & M

Lakser in her Vogue days, I

the next two weeks getting massaged. Naturally, I thought I had just become head of public relations. I had T above. Her most recent landed the greatest job ever. After those two blissful weeks, it was no PR experience, so it was risky, but it creations, le!.

down to business, and I spent the majority of my time attending led to 16 great years before I retired. BY UPAUL R A;

presentations for product launches and reporting on trends. L’Oréal gave me a pair of cowboy boots. I put them on and walked R

into the next chapter in Santa Fe. Gray roots were part of my future. T MIT

Forget any stereotypes about what a workplace full of women R might be like—there was actually a great level of camaraderie. We Unglamorous? Sure. Uncommon? Definitely not. I developed a marker were all in our 20s. (The “older” senior editors were between the that delivered real hair color for instant root touch-ups. After some ages of 30 and 45.) trial and error, the TouchBack collection—featuring a marker, I wore everything that was in fashion. I particularly loved brow marker and color shampoos and conditioners—was born. TOSKAN PHOTO BY ROBE BY PHOTO TOSKAN

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LORI SINGER PHOTO BY JENNA GREENE; VERA WANG BY ROBERT MITRA; 11 MADISON PARK BY FRANCESCO TONELLI; COCODOT CARD COLLECTION CRE ATED BY ERIC BUTERBAUGH 30 East33rdStreet;212-889-2208 35 East18thStreet;212 neighborhood go-to spot. Sushi Sen-nin is my pressed for time, Kitchen, but when cafés, Tokyo style. forstreet Paris for the museums and Bergdorf Goodman. Bergdorf 11 Madison Avenue;212-889-0905 42 East20thStreet;212-477-0777 MadisonEleven Park. Business iPhone for everything else. Blackberry for work e-mails, Saks Fifth Avenue.Saks Fifth manicure. a preflight massage or lounge—it’s perfect for live in the Heathrow DINNER: RESTAURANT FOR BUSINESS LUNCH: FOR BUSINESS RESTAURANT MOBILE DEVICE: BUSINESS TRAVEL CITY: EVENING: CLOTHING STORE/ BUSINESS: CLOTHING STORE/ AIRLINE: Coty Prestige Coty global marketing, group vice president, LORI SINGER, ABC Gramercy Tavern or Virgin. I could Vera Wang, Marc Jacobs,

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VIRGIN ATLANTIC CANYON RANCH  11 MADISON PARK Lori Singer successful. Here, herfavorite resources for work andplay. her personal and professional lives—and is as stylishand asKenneth she is Cole. A busy mother of two, Singer adeptlyLori balancesSinger oversees such tony brands as VeraAs Wang,group Marcvice presidentJacobs of global marketing at Coty Prestige, did my wedding makeup and I have been Health &Beauty AKS, etc., etc. anywhere—Dry Bar, Salon I go everywhere and the queen of the blowout 227 East57th Street;212-688-3180 has a nice, low-key vibe. with my thick, difficult hair and the salon Eugene at Ayervais. Eugene is a genius 145 East32ndStreet;212-684-2626 Dr. Francesca Fusco. DERMATOLOGIST: BLOWOUTS: MAKEUP ARTIST: HAIR STYLIST: BLACK BOOK My girlfriends in a pinch! if I have time to plan ahead. Bergdorf Goodman, 212-229-1070 421 East 73rd Street; treat. a is pedicure Honey The Breath of Milk and to my apartment. Zen and right next door Hand and Foot Spa. Very 212-570-5477 Lexington Avenue; 1044 my son’s Bar Mitzvah, etc. my CEW Achiever Award, occasions— momentous my has continued with me for all Spagnolo from Laura Geller a fan ever since. Carrie STYLIST: MANICURIST: Since I am Color and blowout by CORNER OFFICE Laura Geller. Laura

Danielle at Jin Soon COCODOT.COM Intermix, Shopbop.com. Intermix, latte. Always iced, even in winter. Street; 212-759-9057 whites. Garment Care. Amazing stationery. makes beautiful notes; Vera Wang big fan of handwritten cocodot.com, but I’m a with the girls. annual spa weekend Canyon Ranch for my island-hideaway.com with my husband. a shoot. I would love to go back island in the Maldives for I just went to a remote Hub—so quick and easy. 212-254-8703 134 FifthAvenue; 212-585-2205 1319 FirstAvenue; there. it love boys my The TVs always show sports— extension of my living room. away from Snickers and Peanut M&Ms! decadent champagne truffles, but keep me VACATION SPOT: VACATION TICKET BROKER: STATIONER: HIDEAWAY: FLORIST: DRY CLEANER: DINER: COFFEE ORDER: CLOTHING STORE/WEEKEND: CHOCOLATIER: CHAMPAGNE: 60 East65thStreet;212-288-0033 name (same as my son Danny!). Daniel. Incredible food and love the 245 East57th Café Luka. It’s like an Belle Fleur. I’m aJersey girlatheart! Pleasure RESTAURANT: CELEBRATION BAND: APP:

Online, DomPérignon Rosé. WWD Meurice Teuscher has the most Scramble with Friends.

Iced skinny vanilla Stub Bruce—  BEAUTY INC Restaurant

VERA WANG

9 $0 10 WWDBEAUTY INC  CORNER OFFICE

FLASH POINT

The Fragrance Foundation Fifi Awards MONDAY, MAY 21 As she surveyed the audience of 800 at the 40th annual Fragrance Foundation Awards, host Jane Lynch—star of the hit TV series Glee—said dryly, “Selecting me as host makes perfect sense, because when you think of a sexy, delicate and floral fragrance, you think, ‘Jane Lynch.’” Lynch’s trademark humor Patrick Firmenich opened an evening that had its comic moments—“Because I play Sue Sylvester on Glee, I think people must think I smell like a boys’ locker room,” she said later in the program. “I would Trudi Loren and Fabrizio Freda Ann Gottlieb have loved to have made that fragrance, but unfortunately Kim Kardashian owns the copyright.” The night also proved to be unusually moving. When an emotional Leonard Jessica Stam Lauder watched a video tribute to his late wife, Evelyn Lauder—who was given the Legacy of Excellence award honoring her contributions to the industry as senior corporate vice president of the Estée Carlos Benaim Lauder Cos. and founder of the Breast Cancer Research Foundation—he choked up, saying to the crowd, “You are carrying on her legacy. You are making women Dennis McNeill and Robin Burns feel beautiful and be beautiful.”

“You are

Jane Lynch Nicolas Mirzayantz and Camille McDonald Pamela Baxter carrying on her legacy.” —LEONARD LAUDER

Mariska Hargitay Aerin Lauder and Jane Lauder Jill Scalamandre Theo Spilka Leonard Lauder

CEW Insiders’ Choice Awards FRIDAY, MAY 18 Mario Cantone was characteristically fearless as host of CEW’s 18th annual Insiders’ Choice Awards, but it was the bloggers who were the real stars. A dozen of the top online scribes were enlisted to present this year’s awards, underscoring their NO considerable influence with consumers. “Bloggers I and online influencers are today’s superconsumers,” Lev Glazman, Laura Geller and Alina Roytberg noted CEW’s president Carlotta Jacobson. “They Susan Sweet Jane Lauder Gisela Ballard JOHN AQU BY are in constant contact with their readers and their followers value their opinion.” This year’s awards

certainly gave them much to write about. Big PHOTOS W

winners included Shiseido, Clinique, Lancôme and CE Estée Lauder in the prestige arena, while L’Oréal CHNER;

Paris, Neutrogena, Sally Hansen and Cover Girl all EI took home honors on the mass side. The ceremony TEVE wasn’t dominated only by big brands. Up-and- S comers like Ojon, Rita Hazan and Supergoop also received coveted crystal statues at the standing- Mario Cantone Muriel Gonzalez Charisse Ford Liz Kaplow and Claudia Poccia Jean Hoehn Zimmerman

room-only event. BY FIFI PHOTOS

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www.mane.com

2011 12 WWDBEAUTY INC BEAUTY BULLETIN

Well Rounded Call it the argan e"ect. A!er the incredible success of the hair care line Moroccanoil, oils are beauty’s buzziest new format. Whether for hair, skin, face or sun, myriad brands have superslick launches on the docket for the summer. And no wonder—while still small, sales are booming in the prestige category. “Overall, every oil format has grown,” says Karen Grant of the NPD Group. “In U.S. prestige beauty, sales of argan oil have experienced double-digit growth each year since 2008, rising an additional 28 percent in 2011. Since 2008, argan oil sales have increased by 63 percent, to amount to estimated sales of $20 million in 2011.” While argan’s popularity shows no signs of waning, the new oils are derived from a variety of sources—kukui nut, olive, jojoba, macadamia nut, sweet almond, coconut, grapeseed—with an equally wide range of e"ects. “Companies are looking to develop their own niche in the market,” says Donna Barson of the Kline Group. “There’s definitely an oil boom out there with a multitude of types. But argan is taking first place.” —JAYME CYK

Klorane Darphin Bumble Josie Maran Mango Oil Ramy Nourishing and bumble Argan Hot Beautannia Bobbi Brown Nourishing Beauty Satin Oil Hairdresser’s Oil Self- Brighton Soothing and Repairing Therapy With Red Invisible Oil Heating Hair Bath Oil Cleansing Oil UV Filter Lip Oil Ginger For Sublime Spray Treatment Essential Oil So!ness

PHOTOGRAPHED BY TERU ONISHI

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PHOTOS BY GEORGE CHINSEE $27 and allantoin. contains chamomile six shampoos, Calming treat the scalp. One of chemistry to specifically combines botanicals with the Australian company For its first hair care line,SHAMPOO AESOP $30, $45 and target frizzy hair. assist in manageability binding the cuticle to between hair fibers, acts as a barrier Seriseal silk protein MASQUE TEXTURE REFINE SMOOTHING SHAMPOO and SUBLIME SMOOTHE TIGI debut color collection. CALMING HAIR REBORN Lush’s $22.95 each a mood, with names that match.to create colors that correspondwith a strategic to behavioral therapistcofounder Rowena Bird collaboratedFor Lush’s first makeup LUSH line, brand ÉCLAT LE TEINT TOUCHE YVES SAINT LAURENT $55 powders. In16shades. free of traditional opaque launches, a so"-focus gel spin-o! foundation Éclat. In June, the first facial highlighter Toucheago, YSL launched the $16.50 against humidity. to tame frizz and protect protective barrier works heat- this structure, that relaxes hair’s naturalcysteine, an amino acid With the help of LEAVE-IN SMOOTHER LOCK HEAT GLIDE REDKEN $26 highlighted hair. to nourish and illuminate soybean proteins help extract derived from vitamin E and okara Acacia honey extract, FLUID ACTIVATING LEAVE-IN PARIS RENE FURTERER HANDMADE COLOR Twenty years LIGHT SMOOTH in Provence. by summers Inspired skin. restructure and firm lotus leaf extract to L-carnitine and formula that combines has a concentrated cellulite, this serum appearance of To reduce the CELLULITE SERUM NIVEA style. style. her burlesque, sultry Bon Bon—that match Art Couture Lipstick in featuring shades—like makeup collection, Artdeco for her first collaborated with Dita Von Teese TEESE CLASSICS ARTDECO Provence. Provence. summers in sunny Baussan’s childhood by founder Olivier bergamot inspired contain top notes of Each of these splashes EAU CAPTIVANTE UNIVERSELLE and RAVISSANTE, EAU L’OCCITANE $15.99 $19 SKIN FIRMING $47 DITA VON EAU  What’s InStore products. A guide to this month’s eye-catching LAUNCH WINDOW roses. roses. currant buds and English honeysuckle, black hyacinth, green apples, countryside with captures the English by beloved cities, DKNY Part of a quartet inspired LONDON WORLD BE DELICIOUS DKNY $65 percent. 37 by lines and wrinkles said to instantly reduce extract, this serum is and chlorella vulgaris extract, whey protein Packed with artemia [CPR-75] PERFECTIONIST LAUDER ESTÉE pores and controls foundation minimizes this eight-shade absorbing minerals,oil- with Formulated FOUNDATION FINISH MATTE LONDON RIMMEL $3.97 shine up to 12 hours. [HEARTS] THE $65 CLEAN BY JAYME CYK JAYME BY

BEAUTY BULLETIN launching in A hit in Asia, this is now the U.S. are free of petroleum, sweet almond oils and meadowfoam seed and extract, jojoba seed, grosvernori fruit gels contain momordica These moisturizing lip MIGHTY SHINY LIP GEL YOUNGBLOOD $25.50 each fragrance and mineral oil. $60 musks to spray allover. amber, so" woods and ylang ylang, jasmine, scent encompassing Normant developed a their hair, stylist Sergespraying fragrance in A"er noticing women AVAH EAU DE PARFUM SERGE NORMANT $65 ingredient. of melanin, is the key inhibits the production an antioxidant that Peony root extract, launching in the U.S. this brightener is now A big success in Asia, WHITENING ESSENCE FRESH PEONY

$24.99 each and re-firm skin. acid to repair, re-densifyfragmented hyaluronic contains Pro-xylane and Revitali"’s latest formulaTREATMENT SERUM and EYE POWER CONCENTRATED REVITALIFT TRIPLE PARIS L’ORÉAL Launches inAugust. recurrent inspiration of polkahis newest dots. fragrance a"erdesigner his Marc Jacobs modeleddragon fruit and honeysuckle,Fusing a juicy mix of red MARC JACOBSberries, and botanicals to even makeup contains silk lightweight cream fragrance- and oil-free, shades, this Available in 12 MAKEUP WHIPPED CRÈME REVLON $13.99 out skin tone. COLORSTAY DOT

$89 WWD of awoman. and di!erent dimensions to evoke the experiences plum and succulent peach Italian bergamot, luscious Kim Kardashian layered In her newest fragrance, TRUE REFLECTION KIM KARDASHIAN $68 CREAM GENTLE HYDRATING VISIBLE DIFFERENCE ELIZABETH ARDEN hydration. hydration. as a catalyst to provide botanical extracts that actcomplex, a blend of of advanced filagrinol this moisturizer consistingrevamped line includes  BEAUTY INC Arden’s recently $39.50

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30 14 WWDBEAUTY INC BEAUTY BULLETIN

TOOL KIT The Machine Age Appearances are paramount in Japan, and electronics companies are cashing in on people’s desire to look good on the go by o!ering a wide range of mobile beauty devices, from basic functional items like travel hair dryers to more unconventional products like eyebrow shavers and scalp massagers. Panasonic has been leading the way in the “moba beau” segment (short for “mobile beauty”) since establishing its Panasonic Beauty division in 2008. Here, some of the newer and more interesting moba beau products to hit the Japanese market. BY KELLY WETHERILLE

PANASONIC HEAD SPA SHARP PLASMACLUSTER IONIZER Panasonic realized it had a hit when it sold 200,000 of these Sharp sells air sanitizers and ionizers using its devices in 2011, so with this year’s release it added a version for men. “plasmacluster” technology in markets around Designed to be used in the shower, it has rubber nubs that rotate the world, and last summer it released a travel- and vibrate while lathering shampoo, imitating a professional size version in Japan. The company claims the massage and stimulating the scalp. 12,800 yen (about $160) device improves skin’s texture by bringing out its natural elasticity and glow, while also boosting one’s mood. 6,500 yen (about $81)

KOIZUMI FACE SHAVER AND NOSE CARE This pen-size gadget takes a normally embarrassing product PANASONIC ROTATING EYELASH COMB and reinvents it as Designed to curl even the most stubborn downward-pointing lashes, this battery- something sleek and powered device has a comb that rotates 360 degrees, separating lashes as it curls. discreet. It includes Panasonic claims it is especially e!ective at curling lashes of single-edged lids, a key two head attachments concern in Japan and other Asian countries. 3,980 yen (about $50) that can be used for trimming nose hair or shaving unwanted facial hair. To up the cuteness factor, it comes in Barbie-branded versions with pink polka dots or leopard print. 1,980 yen to 2,480 yen (about $25 to $31)

PANASONIC HANDY MIST This slim metal can easily fits into a purse or briefcase PANASONIC NECK and can be used to di!use REFLEXOLOGY a fine mist of moisturizing This pocket-size machine provides TANITA BREATH CHECKER lotion on the face, giving relief to the sti! necks and For those who want to judge the complexion a pick-me- shoulders of multitaskers without whether or not they need a breath up any time of the day. taking time out of the day for a mint, Tanita has just the thing. Shiseido teamed up with massage. Panasonic’s promotional Users blow onto this device and Panasonic to o!er one of material shows images of women within five seconds a cute drawing its best-selling lotions in a wearing the necklacelike massager and a number from one to six lets special size designed to be on the train, in the o"ce and them know how badly their breath used in the device. while chatting with friends. is likely to o!end those within close 13,000 yen (about $163) 6,980 yen (about $87) proximity. 4,200 yen (about $53)

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RETAIL REPORT SLA PARIS “We wish to open this brand to the Paris Attractions general public,” says Laurent Scalbert, Visiting the newest bijoux beauty boutiques in the City of Light. BY JENNIFER WEIL executive director of SLA Création, whose makeup artist line SLA (short for Serge Louis Alvarez) has catered to professionals for 20 years. “Our concept store is a place in which consumers can come to discover makeup, test it, use it, amuse themselves with the colors.” The 667-square-foot SLA Paris store opened on the Right Bank last October and sells three lines of makeup—professional, organic and natural. Prices range from $6.55 for an applicator to $52.25 for foundation. Classes are available, too. Though this is SLA’s first store, it’s far from the last: A Paris flagship opened in April, and Scalbert hopes to franchise the retail concept globally. SLA makeup is distributed in about 20 countries, including Australia, Kuwait, Spain, Portugal and Poland. 28 Rue Pierre Lescot, 75001 Paris. Tel.: +33-1-5340-8424

EVIDENS DE BEAUTÉ Tucked away on a street in the 16th arrondissement comfy leather chairs and a fireplace. The store’s blue is Evidens de Beauté’s first freestanding store, which color scheme echoes Evidens’ packaging, and its opened earlier this year. The six-year-old beauty brand, walls’ organic motif has an eastern flair. Products are whose antiaging skin care products are formulated presented primarily in glassed-in cases. “I wanted to for sensitive skin, is available in 450 points of sale, show the product like jewelry,” says Barthes. Evidens’ JOVOY including spas, in 14 countries. entire line of 30-plus products—including skin care, Just a hop away from the Place Vendôme is “We wanted to have a place where we can show our candles and fragrance—is available, ranging in price Jovoy, described by founder François Hénin as an products and receive clients,” says founder and chief from $72.20 to $525.25 at current exchange. The “embassy for hard-to-find perfumes in Paris.” The executive Charles-Edouard Barthes. “I had this idea of natural skin care brand Precellence is also on o!er. 1,944-square-foot location opened in late February a little boudoir here in Paris.” Next up: a second freestanding store, with a treatment stocked with nearly 60 brands including Clive Indeed, walking into the approximately 167-square- room, in Madrid, as well as additions to the line itself. Christian, Andy Tauer, Heeley Parfums, Parfums foot boutique is like entering a private home with 25 rue Boissière, 75116 Paris. Tel.: +33-1-4704-0073 d’Orsay, Parfums de Marly, Parfums MDCI, Poiray and Jovoy’s signature line. Designed with interior architect Géraldine Prieur, the store has red walls SENS UNIQUE and wooden floors. If Jovoy is an embassy, then its “The idea was to gather together independent fragrance innovative fragrance trunks, created by the luxury [brands],” says Renata Faizutdinova of the concept behind maker T.T. Trunks, are its “consulates,” says Hénin. Sens Unique, the boutique she cofounded. Altogether, there Starting in June, trunks containing Jovoy’s bestsellers are about 30 brands and approximately 350 stockkeeping from 16 brands will be placed in upscale hotel rooms units in the 278-square-foot store that opened last (think minibars for fragrance). He foresees the trunks, June, including Parfumerie Générale, Phaedon, By Kilian, Laboratorio Olfattivo, Maison Francis Kurkdjian, Honoré des which can be purchased for upwards of 25,000 euros Prés and Susan Tabak. There’s also a smattering of skin care, empty (about $32,000 at current exchange), possibly such as Bakel. Some products are displayed in large frames— being placed in hotel gift shops and perfumeries, as one Baroque and the other more modern in style, as well as well. “We have in the trunk vials of all the references on a central table and other varied merchandising units. A of the brands, so that they can show the full range,” chandelier hangs overhead, and one wall reveals rough-hewn says Hénin. “We have invented a new way of stone. Unique, indeed. introducing more widely our [fragrance] universes.” 13 Rue du Roi de Sicile, 75003. Tel.: +33-1-7150-3009 4 Rue de Castiglione, 75001. Tel.: +33-1-4020-0619 EVIDENS PHOTO BY GUILLAUME BOYNARD GUILLAUME BY EVIDENS PHOTO

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SAKS: The Fashion Show Mall DILLARD’S: The Fashion Show Mall

UNDERCOVER SHOPPER From Sin City to Shopping Mecca RACHEL BROWN rolls the dice on finding a new look in Las Vegas.

as Vegas never ceases to amaze me. It’s noon on can’t judge a book by its cover,” seriously. an ordinary Wednesday in May, and the Fashion I’ve seen couples in Las Vegas wearing Last year, nearly 5 million Show Mall is bustling. There’s a line at Starbucks flip-flops and cowboy boots spending people attended one when I attempt to get a green tea latte (yes, I’m thousands. Las Vegas, of Las Vegas’ 19,029 Nevada from the Left Coast,) and the Apple store, like Apple I’m about to put Las Vegas conventions. That’s a stores everywhere, is full of customers gazing at the customer service to the test. In the small percentage of the LiEverything devices. Shouldn’t these people be at work or at school? spirit of this test, I’ve assumed a almost 39 million visitors Even though I’m at the mall, I’m working. Like around Las Vegas persona. Outwardly, I’m a to the city in 2011. No 30,000 others, I’m in Las Vegas for the International Council schlub—my Anne Taylor Loft sweater and wonder that the city of Shopping Center’s annual convention. As I walk around the Old Navy jeans are emphatically not up to high-roller boasts at least three of mall, I hear German, Spanish, Chinese and English. It’s a virtual standards—but I imagine myself to have just hit the jackpot. America’s top-performing United Nations of shopping. Saks Fifth Avenue seems as good a place as any to spend malls within a few square I must admit, Las Vegas is a pretty great place to shop. The a mini fortune. As I walk into the store, I’m busily typing on miles, including the range and concentration of stores is incredible. The stores my cellphone, jotting down notes on what’s in the cosmetics 2-million-square-foot themselves are often spectacular. And, usually, the customer department—an array of upscale brands—when a neatly dressed Fashion Show Mall. service is exceptional. Salespeople tend to take the adage, “You salesperson asks me if I’m interested in anything in particular.

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When people are engrossed in their phones at are declined in Las Vegas all the time. the store, she says, she thinks they’re scrolling for I may not be rich, but I can still have fun, right? My JOIN information on something in particular. next task is to search for affordable makeup to ready Actually, I’m not shopping with a specific product me for a carefree night on the town, Vegas style. I’m in mind. But it’s Las Vegas, and the heat is searing my thinking long eyelashes, glittery eye shadow, bright skin. I ask for a moisturizer to combat dryness. She nail polish and shiny, come-hither lip gloss. I head to happens to be a specialist for SK-II and brings me to Dillard’s. I’m intrigued by The Edge Beauty, which the counter where its star products are arrayed. Dillard’s describes as a one-stop shop for cutting-edge CEW The associate singles out Facial Treatment Essence beauty trends. The Edge Beauty sits at the front of the as the heart of the brand. This treatment is the store, and I estimate by walking the length and width TO GET foundation upon which everything else is laid. In of the section that it is nearly 400 square feet. I guess order to demonstrate that to me, she applies the black is supposed to indicate cutting-edge because Essence beneath the Skin Signature facial moisturizer that’s the primary color here, while the rest of the on my left hand and only the moisturizer on my right. Dillard’s beauty department is mostly white. MEMBER My left hand is undeniably softer, but adding the The Edge Beauty contains a number of brands product to my moisturizer purchase means spending across cosmetics, skin care and devices. Too Faced, another $155. The moisturizer is already $205. Murad, Napoleon Perdis, StriVectin, Osmotics, ONLY I’m feeling rich, however, I’m really not. Delighted Tanda, Xen-Tan, Butter London, DDF, DuWop, by the moisturizer’s lightweight texture, I tell the PürMinerals, Paula Dorf, T3 and Studio Gear saleswoman that I’ll take just that and leave the Cosmetics are some of them. There is a cash register Essence for my next visit in the dedicated to the area, and I BENEFITS hopes that my fantasies of wealth “To further petrify me, the assume a staff person separate might turn into reality. from the larger Dillard’s beauty The associate, an aesthetician analysis simulates my face department is supposed to be who has passed my customer service five years from today... there. This person is alluded to test with a soft, nonjudgmental Yikes! I have got to stop the in a sign that mentions I should CEW MEMBER DIRECTORY approach, seems fine with that, wrinkles before they conquer see The Edge Beauty advisers but she has another trick up her for a gift with the purchase of a Access to Over 4500 sleeve to get me interested in more my entire face.” qualifying cosmetics line. There products. She suggests I submit to is no one in sight. Who’s Who in Beauty a skin consultation using SK-II’s Even without a salesperson, I U Beauty Imaging System. She tells me the consultation can effortlessly sort through the section. List-oriented CEW MENTORNET will be similar to one I could receive at a doctor’s office displays highlighting key products help guide me. The and covers, among other horrifying skin issues, pores, largest of these displays features “The Edge Beauty Find Industry Leader Mentors wrinkles and dark spots. Honestly, there are some Eight” that includes Xen-Tan’s E! Live From the Red U things I’d rather not know. But, I’m a journalist and, as Carpet Perfect Blend, an Anastasia Beverly Hills such, I am occasionally forced to dig deeper to find the Brow Kit, Scott Barnes Body Bling, DuWop’s Private WOMEN & MEN IN BEAUTY truth. I insert my head into the machine and it quickly Lipstick, Butter London polishes and Clarisonic’s EVENTS takes pictures of my face. Sonic Skin Cleansing System. There is also a lash I soon discover one thing that I’d rather not display spotlighting items from Too Faced, Dior, Network & Learn from know: Wrinkles are forming underneath my eyes. Clinique and Lash Allure MD, and a primer display Industry Leaders I always thought hyperpigmentation was my main with products from Napoleon Perdis, Lancôme, Paula skin problem—now I have wrinkles too. She informs Dorf, Studio Gear, Too Faced and PürMinerals. Deals U me that the skin analysis compares me to 100 other abound, as small signs throughout the section inform EXCLUSIVE BEAUTY NEWS women. I score above average on every issue except me. I can get from DuWop, for example, a free full- lines and wrinkles. In a booklet charting my analysis, size Doubleglow7 with a $50 buy. from CEW Beauty Insider the associate draws lines underneath my eyes to For a sum that I could probably manage, jackpot U show me the lines that have formed or are forming. or no jackpot, I can suitably fulfill my Vegas look To further petrify me, the analysis simulates my face requirements at The Edge Beauty. Butter London’s CEW BEAUTY CAREER CENTER five years from today—the wrinkles worsen and the cobalt blue Blagger lacquer would give my nails a pop, Find Talent and Jobs skin around my jaw line is getting droopy. (I should and the DiorShow Black Out Mascara would intensify contemplate a firming product, she advises.) my lashes, but I can’t seem to easily buy these Yikes! I have got to stop the wrinkles before products with no adviser present. I wait for close to they conquer my entire face. The skin analysis an hour at The Edge Beauty for someone to show up has convinced me to buy an eye cream as well as to serve me. As I wait, the phone goes unanswered. NOT A MEMBER? moisturizer. The total bill is $340.51. My moneyed People wander in and out of the section. Not a single alter ego pulls out a debit card. It is declined. Reality associate appears. I exit empty handed. Too bad. I’ll is crushing my champagne wishes and caviar dreams! definitely gamble on a return visit to The Edge Beauty JOIN TODAY I guess this purchase has to go on credit. The associate when I return to Las Vegas, though—and hopefully, is very nice about the whole episode. She says cards I’ll have better luck in the service department. CEW.ORG

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MOTHER’S DAY REVLON JUST EXCLUSIVE GREAT BITTEN LIPSTAIN IN STARTS SET: FORBIDDEN $9.79 Starting Over Age- Kaczynski has used this Erasing Moisturizer before and likes that with Mimosa, Age- it’s a gloss on one side Erasing Eye Cream and a stain on the other. GOT2B DEFIANT SHINE with Mimosa, “I apply the stain and POMADE $6.89 Plantscription Anti- then the gloss, which As a lab supervisor, Aging Serum $57 keeps it from coming Kaczynski usually pulls Robideaux liked the o!. That’s what I hate back her hair. “It pieces lightweight texture about lipstick—it comes my hair together,” says of the moisturizer o! onto things,” says Kaczynski. “And it gets and eye cream. Kaczynski. EYESHADOW IN rid of the frizz.” COPPER PENNY “The serum came AND NUTCRACKER with the set, but I’ll definitely use it,” $15 each SOFTSOAP JUICY Robideaux was she says. STAY TUNED POMEGRANATE & searching for a natural BALANCING FACE MANGO INFUSIONS look for her wedding, L’ORÉAL PARIS MAKEUP $22 MOISTURIZING BODY and felt these shades VOLUMINOUS “I’ve experienced a WASH $4.49 weren’t over the top, SMOLDERING bit of damage from “I really like the little but still added an EYELINER IN BLACK the sun and this seeds. They help element of glamour. exfoliate,” she says. NOIR $9.89 really evened out Since L’Oréal no my skin tone,” says longer o!ers her go-to AUTOMAGICALLY EYE Robideaux. eyeliner, she decided LINING PENCIL $15 to try the revamped “I like the pencil because version. “The eyeliner I can create di!erent I used to use applied characters with my eyes,” smoothly and was long says Robideaux. lasting, so hopefully this will do the same,” says Kaczynski. FLOWER FUSION LIP COLOR IN TEA L’ORÉAL PARIS AGE BRUSH ON COLOR ROSE $16.50 PERFECT DAY/NIGHT IN PINK PETAL $21 “I love how this CREAM $17.99 “The color looked subtle color gives Kaczynski loves the great on my skin a little punch to consistency and light tone and it wasn’t the face,” says texture. too garish,” says Robideaux. the bride-to-be.

$161.50* $49.05* Total Spent Total Spent

PRINCETON, NJ SHOPPER STALKER * Pre-tax totals What’s in Ann’s Bag What’s in Lisa’s Bag 40-year-old bride-to-be Ann Robideaux It’s not every day one meets a person who stopped into Origins for a makeup consultation jumps over fire and crawls under barbed for her upcoming nuptials in the Catskills. “I wire. But Lisa Kaczynski, 38, whose day job was looking for natural cosmetics and my friend is lab supervisor for a pediatric practice, is a recommended the manager as a stylist,” says devoted obstacle-course competitor in her Robideaux. A choreographer for contemporary spare time. Citing convenience and price, and commercial dance, Robideaux opts for a Kaczynski stopped in to CVS for a couple natural regimen and little makeup unless she’s of necessities before a big night out. “I’m going out at night or performing on stage. going on a first date with an old friend from “I wash my face, moisturize, apply sun block high school, so I needed to refill a couple of and leave,” she says. “I like to buy products products I use daily,” says Kaczynski. She from natural spas and really enjoy skin care has participated in 18 Spartan obstacle series products from Dr. Hauschka.” Today, Robideaux races this past year. “It’s really important appreciated the fast and e!cient service Shopper: Ann Robideaux that I take care of my skin since I am Shopper: Lisa Kaczynski from the store’s manager. “I don’t like being Date/Time: 5.11.2012, 12:24 p.m. competing outside,” she says. “I wash my face Date/Time: 5.11.2012, 2:03 p.m. pressured to buy stu" and being asked a ton of Store: Origins every morning and I use Olay Daily Moisturizer Store: CVS Location: 56 Nassau Street Location: 172 Nassau Street questions,” says Robideaux. “I have to answer with SPF 15 for my face. For my body I use to people a lot and I’d rather shop on my own.” Coppertone Sport Sunscreen Lotion SPF 30, Luckily, she won’t have to answer to too much in terms of her wedding since her Ultra Sweat-proof. Also, since tan lines are inevitable, I use Jergens Natural

fiancé is in charge of the planning and she’s arranging the honeymoon. Glow Daily Moisturizer in the strap areas on my shoulders to help even it out.” CHINSEE GEORGE BY PRODUCTS JOHN AQUINO; BY SHOPPER PHOTOS

%%3*;&&6KRSSHU6WDONHUDLQGG $0  ADVERTISEMENT Recognizing Excellence in Luxury Service MEET KARLA PATTON, YVES SAINT LAURENT PRODUCT SPECIALIST Karla Patton has provided AT NEIMAN MARCUS, ATLANTA outstanding service to Yves Saint Laurent clients at Neiman Marcus, Atlanta, for 3 years. WHAT INSPIRED YOU TO BECOME A PRODUCT SPECIALIST? My gosh, makeup! I just love the makeup and the aesthetics of makeup. I’m inspired by the face.

WHAT’S YOUR FAVORITE PART ABOUT BEING A PRODUCT SPECIALIST? I’m a licensed cosmetologist and esthetician, and I love pampering my customers. Changing how people feel about themselves makes me really, really happy.

WHAT ADVICE WOULD YOU OFFER AN ASPIRING PRODUCT SPECIALIST? Learn as much as you possibly can and offer every customer to “take a seat.” That way you can give them your undivided attention.

WHAT ARE YOUR CAREER ASPIRATIONS? I’d love to make a difference with YSL and feel like I’m part of a brand with such an immense history.

DO YOU HAVE A MEMORABLE STORY ABOUT A CLIENT YOU CAN SHARE WITH US? A woman said, “I just need some foundation.” When I asked if she had time for a makeover, she agreed. When I fi nished she started crying. She said for the fi rst time in her life she felt really beautiful. She said, “You made me feel so good that I want two of everything!” It was a such a personally rewarding day for me.

WHAT ARE SOME OF YOUR FAVORITE BEAUTY PRODUCTS? Touche Éclat – I can’t live without it. Faux Cils Mascara, Faux Cils Radical with that extra black pigment. And Temps Majeur Eye, I love that product.

WHAT DOES THE YVES SAINT LAURENT BRAND MEAN TO YOU? “Yves Saint Laurent The history, the designer. But also, three simple French words: savant, is savant, sophistiqué, sophistiqué, sexy. sexy.” WHO ARE YOUR BEAUTY ICONS? Beverly Johnson, the fi rst African American to appear on the cover of Vogue. Madonna also, and Michelle Obama.

The L’Oréal Luxe Division is proud to partner with WWD Beauty Inc to recognize, each month, exceptional customer service in luxury beauty. IT’S FULL SPEED AHEAD FOR GROUPE CLARINS CHIEF EXECUTIVE PHILIP SHEARER, WHOSE AUDACIOUS GOAL IS TO POWER THE FAMILY-OWNED FRENCH FIRM TO THE NUMBER-ONE SPOT IN PRESTIGE SKIN CARE. BY PETE BORN / PHOTOGRAPHED BY LORENZO AGIUS

N AVID CAR RACER, Philip Shearer is not one to spend much time gazing in the rearview mirror. Since taking the helm of Groupe Clarins as chief executive officer four years ago, Shearer is clearly fo- cused on powering the brand forward, competing for the number-one spot in worldwide prestige skin care. According to one industry estimate, that would mean Clarins would have to achieve a global sales volume of

%%3*:(//&ODULQVDLQGG 30  %%3*;:(//&ODULQVDLQGG 30  %%3*;:(//&ODULQVDLQGG 22 office operations, like inthesupplychain,ordertoreinvest inthebrands. back- mostly some streamline to ways for looking arrived, he after operation whole the examined Shearer that says source Another budgets. workable istic, real produce to Clarins allow to needed discipline the injecting with Shearer credits Courtin-Clarins development. sustainable for need the to sensitive very “He’s adding, says, Courtin-Clarins focus,” to how knows “He pragmatic. also This allows him to be both creative with a passion for product development but American. naturalized a also he’s and Anglo-Saxon and Latin both is ground Shearer has brought a certain philosophical duality to Clarins, because his back board supervisory and son of the late founder, Jacques HeCourtin-Clarins. said the of president Courtin-Clarins, Christian to according Spain, beleaguered in even U.S.France,and the Germany,in Asia, showings muscular by ber,driven Shearer. “Everything we do is for the long run.” contemplatingselling the company. “We are doing so much for the long run,” says cent marketspeculation thatClarins’ re owners, Courtin-Clarinsthe outright family, dismisses maybe who Shearer, says wouldallow ustoinvest atourown pace,” publiccompany, wefelt that being private wentprivate. “Inspite enjoyingof beinga company Paris-based the before 2008,shortly in Clarins family-run the at ceo Inc.,LauderCos.Shearertéebecamethe Otherwise, nobody will remember you.’” wantto end up on the [winner’s] podium. You goal. your on focused stay you sure thedirection where you are looking. Make “He tells us, ‘When you race, the car goes in presidentand Canadiantheof subsidiary. Zrihen,presidentClarinsofUSA ceoand cal racing car that tops out at 180 m.p.h. the wheel of his new 460-horsepower Radi towin is often whetted on the track behind mask a steely competitiveness. That instinctarming charm and an ironic sense dis Hisof voracious. is ideas new humorfor appetite on the track and a foot on the gas. Shearer’s ity and risk, he seems always to have an eye his management style. Unfazed by complex sales. itsAsian bolster U.S.thenumberandinspotthefrom six solidify its top position in Europe, move up billion$1.6tobillion atcurrent exchange, 1.2 billion euros to 1.3 billion euros, or $1.5 Shearer’s love of auto racing is reflected in The company had a strong year in 2011, with record-setting sales in Octo in sales record-setting with 2011, in year strong a had company The Es the at president group a Previously very“Hedrivenais guy,” saysJonathan

WWD  BEAUTY over, the company has paid down half the 880 million euro loan euromillion 880 the half down paid has company theover, percent jump over the precrisis figures of three years ago. More ago. years three of figures precrisis the over jump percent 1.3 billion euros ($1.6 billion) for 2012, which would represent a 30 ccordingtoindustry sources, Clarins isaiming forsalesa target of I N C

- - - - - ters are carrying on the family’s entrepreneurial tradition. entrepreneurial family’s the on carrying are ters products andspa treatments worldwide. Today, theirfour daugh and rose to ceo; son His formulated. opened a spa in Paris using 100 percent plant-based oils thatC he larins was founded in1954by Jacques CLAIRE THE CLARINSDYNAS  C O H RIS livier came on board in 1990 to develop skin care VIRGINIE T C IAN hristian joined as export manager in 1974 C

OUR JACQUES T - - - - IN- C LARINS if you are not strong in the U.S.,” he declares. linchpin for any global development plan. “You can’t exist long-term in the world But there’s a potential for Clarins to do a lot, lot better.” Shearer sees the U.S. as a well-armedof competitors. “It’shuge market,acompetitors the strong. veryare theU.S. market is very difficult,” he notes, comparing America to “a fortress” full wouldmultiplylikeheknowtofive. “IAmerican his four orfactor of ashare by have a 26.2 percent market share; in the U.K., 21 percent.” U.S.,the individualpercent.aroundtakeinwe4 If countries, France,likein we of the world. We’ve got the brand, it’s a matter of making it work.” need in the long run,” he observes. “We’ve got to reinvent ourselves in other parts rope to the exact opposite in the next five Eu to eightof years. outside percent 40 and European percent 60 from sales of ratio present departmentstores, largely inin the U.K. units and U.S. 70They are considered and a key locationsbuilding freestanding block. 150 about number which spas, care skin own its in professionalservicesperfecting in expertise has also datingback to1954, pioneerasa inplant-based natural products. Thecompany worldwide duty free business is bigger than the U.S. prestige beautythe Brazilians—rather market. than fixed geographic markets. He often points out businessthat the interms ofpopulation groups that travel—the Chinese, the Koreans and BrazilandtheU.S. Likeother industry executives, Shearer seestheinternational planstobuild the skin care business inAsia, particularly China and South Korea, of owned brands like Thierry Mugler and Azzaro, and licensed labelsty, andprimarilyremaining thefashion.care,andskin third consistsfragrance, of comprised

Clarins’ men’s skin care line ranks around second in Europe. Shearer adds that He elaborates, “In Europe, we’ve got a 16 percent market share in skin care. In we thatgrowth the provide not doesEurope and Europe in strengthis “Our the flip towants geo-economicthehe dynamic,Shearersays ofterms in But heritage,strong a hasdominates andit Europe,where in Clarins’strengthis Shearer’srealismsenseofshines through whendiscussing strategyhehow on P RISCA C OLIVIER ourtin-

C larins, who T J Y ENNA - oe a wl a te nrie si care skin Energizer the as well as rope, Eu in range Smooth Instant the 2010, in including the Vital Light range in the U.S. launches,productrecent its onstratedby dem 30, to 18 of ages the between fied identi were “Targetconsumersmonitor. Euro at analyst corporate care personal thanbefore,” says Serena clearerJian, beauty and be to tends positioning product launchesofthisyear.tum withthenew the of 2011quarter fourth and gained momen in evident became categories care body and face the turnaround in a notes She sales. U.S. of Group, NPD atanalyst industry global president and vice Grant, a more conventional arrangement. and the company recently refinanced with ing private, according to industry sources, that was taken out in 2008 to bankroll go Top 100list.] in 2010 for 26 No. ranked [Clarins explains. she markets,” 2010, due to its reliance on the developed in industry care personal and beauty the in playersbeauty global 25 top the of out fell “[It] overall. market the performing range in 2011.” “Over the last couple of years, Clarins’ years, of couple last the “Over Karen says better,” is business “The About two thirds of the business is beau under been has Clarins says Jian Yet W Bat Inc Beauty WWD .’s ------30

JACQUES COURTIN- CLARINS AND SONS PHOTOGRAPH BY GILLES BASSIGNAC/GAMMA; DAUGHTERS BY WIREIMAGE

PHOTOGRAPH BY GEORGE CHINSEE JACQUES COURTIN- CLARINS AND SONS PHOTOGRAPH BY GILLES BASSIGNAC/GAMMA; DAUGHTERS BY WIREIMAGE %%3*;:(//&ODULQVDLQGG PHOTOGRAPH BY GEORGE CHINSEE ie n ae Tee akt, u and sun markets, These face. on time concludes. beauty is your own skin. beauty,of inasset bestthatyourwhichis lot of Asian customers agree with our idea natural beauty.” your Shearer points enhance out that “a will that foundation and shades and colors of palette a using into more are We up. it cover to than beauty natural your enhance to more makeup makeup,”anduse“We says.careShearer call bridge products that are between skin productssmartwethat very number of a an’s best beauty asset is her skin. “We have it’s anantiage serum. reports, to According year. next of haps per- quarter first the in expected launch its with says, he developed, been has uct prod- face hero a gap, that plug Tois.” market care skin the of bulk the where is which market, face the developed really and body sun care businesses in the U.S., it “never developed Clarins while that thy of serious investment. Fourth, he says wor- opportunity real a as viewed wasn’t to 900. closer now is count The doors. 1,300 to up wide, too was distribution store ment more thanwhat wehave inpricing.” lost volumerecoupedthroughcovered;we’ve We’vetoning. re and cleansing care, skin ing that the price points are being moderated. “We’ve lowered the prices on basic pricing—that’saccessibleinbe foundertowanted,” thewhat Sheareraddsays, decadesago,theproducts werepriced toobrandhigh.itself “The in supposed is U.S.positionthein compared Europe.establishedbrandwas thetoWhen here do not fulfill their part of the job for what they are getting in the deal,” he said. andreinvest themoneytheirinowncompeting brands. think“Ithat those guys characterization of specialty stores that collect margins from mainstream vendors ticularly in Europe. In an interview last year, “brand destroyers” was his personal their private label brands, disadvantaging their vendors. He says this is acute par he takes a dimmer view of specialty chains like Sephora that, he implies, promote traditionalthe“love”for retailformathate. otherHowever,thatvendorstolove I te .. w hvnt pn enough spent haven’t we U.S., the “In opportunities,” he of land the is “Asia wom a thatposition the takes Clarins U.S. the that indicates Shearer Third, The second problem is that the depart- anemic an such has brandClarins the why of analysisfour-part a offersHe his professing stores, department of proponent enthusiastic an is Shearer does not provide the growth we need in the long run. We’ve got to reinvent ourselves Our strength is in Europe and Europe - - in other parts of theworld.  - - new product in the top 20 last year. designeddealtowith the face. contrast,By Grant notes, Clarins placed onlyone launches in the first quarter, five of them were from Clarins and all of them were storative Décolleté and Neck Concentrate. Moreover, among the top 20 skin care novating inthecategory, toseegood things.” soweshouldexpect the face category, we are seeing a strong push this year,” she are notes. in- “They body, arenotcategories abusinessinthelongrun.” bigenoughto sustain ly developed body and sun care business. “Others play but Clarins has a strong a hasClarins business.but“Othersplay care sun anddevelopedbody ly strong its leverage to able being of advantage the has Clarins that adds Grant care.Although theprestige category theU.S.in dominatedis facialby products, In the U.S. prestige market, Clarins ranks second in both body care and sun and carebody both insecond ranksU.S.Clarinsprestigemarket, the In Re age-specialistserums—Superamong launch top the with scored Clarins “InNPD. of Grant to according time, lost for up making is company the But

brand’s image. “We are the only [brand] the builddisplayandexpertise to used Bloomingdale’sBoston.inspas Theare ChestnuttheOctoberHillbranchin of adding that another spa was opened last locations,”two thesays,between ity he is the small wheel. There is a lot of activ traditional wheel’—thecounter being the big wheel bigand the spa the and spa. That’s what we call ‘the small wheel a have don’t we when than rate faster much a at grow to tend we spa, a have we “When says, Shearer counter, rins inadepartment store along with aCla spa that consumerscanplay online. a aboutinteractivegame andeveloped U.S.capability.the up ingevenClarins complete department in Paris and beef proponent,bigopening aa as oncame Shearer but game, digital the to late knowledgeableone source,Clarinswas to According capabilities. e-commerce with year last site Web its revamping and year last earlycampaign ad new a towardsustainability,eye an launching with products the repackagingbehind motiveexpression.” the itswas Thatin been“tomake the brand morerelevant that NPDtracks. countries eight the of seven in 10 top sixth in the U.S. The brand ranks in the placing while U.K., the and France in showing,” shesays. Describingtheeffect puttingof spaa has also U.S. the in goal Shearer’s rankings the tops Clarins Overall,

WWD  BEAUTY I N C

23 - - - - - 30 24 WWDBEAUTY INC

They didn’t do anything that couldn’t be done by everyone else. They just executed it better than anyone else. —Howard Kreitzman

which has a true professional anchorage because that’s where we were born.” ciplined event calendar. “They didn’t do anything that couldn’t be done by everyone Shearer points out that there are two ways of sampling products: at point of else. They just executed it better than anyone else. They were determined to outpost sale at the time of a transaction, or through the spa. “The spa is a means to an as much as they could and they worked to make it happen,” Kreitzman said. end at which to sell products.” Calling this process “fuel for the business,” Shearer The grand push also bore fruit in Macy’s in Dadeland, Fla., where sources say explains, “If anyone could be the MAC of skin care, we would be. We are profes- sales hopped from $600,000 to over $1 million; in Boston, the volume rose from sionals selling products. What MAC does so well is that they sell you a foundation $400,000 to $1 million. One observer notes that four years ago, before Shearer’s or a lipstick or an eye shadow with a method that you can apply, so that it looks arrival, Clarins had three $1 million doors in the U.S. Now it’s almost 10. professional. That’s what we can offer.” Clarins also is doing well at Nordstrom, according to Laurie Black, general Zrihen says that one of Shearer’s strengths is knowing which battles to fight. merchandise manager and executive vice president of cosmetics. “It’s perform- Shearer talks about “scoring goals,” and his rhetoric is laden with motivational ing very well,” she says, adding that a couple of products have been hot sellers, as power for the troops. Of the beauty business, he says, “It’s a war. And it’s a tough part of the industry-wide wave of special-item product innovations. Also, Clarins one. You’ve got to be very ambitious but realistic.” and Nordstrom have teamed up to provide mini-spa services that have gone over He continues, “You have to play the battles that you can win. I say, for instance, well. One opportunity that Clarins may be missing, Black cautions, is the need ‘Let’s focus on one store or two stores. I to be more aggressive in offering a more know I can win this one.’ [Winning] is ambitious color cosmetics assortment. always important in a company—people Shearer has hitched the company’s fu- have got to learn how to win. Because ture to the beauty side of the business, once they start [enjoying] the sweet smell particularly skin care, while giving due of victory, they want more. It’s addictive.” respect to the fragrance side. “The fra- The most dramatic application of this grance business is great,” he observes, philosophy was used in the American “but it is strong in pretty mature mar- market. Out of the 900-door distribu- kets that are not growing at very fast tion, Clarins carved out the 250 most- rates, like Europe or North America. So promising stores and poured on the that’s why it’s an attractive business, but resources. One of the doors was Bloom- it’s not as attractive as other businesses.” ingdale’s 59th Street flagship in Manhat- That being said, Clarins has a huge tan. Sources say sales there soared from pillar of strength in its Thierry Mugler $1.6 million to $3 million to $4 million fragrance brands, foremost Angel, which last year. Without commenting on the has been a global top-10 fragrance. Its numbers, Shearer attributed the in- sister scent, Alien, which was launched creases to highly motivated sales people, in 2005, has come on very strong. The the appeal of the product and help from third scent in the series, Womanity, has a Bloomingdale’s, both with their clientel- mixed record—“okay in Europe but not ing system and the store’s support. “They good in the U.S.” The company’s other loaned us some space,” Shearer observes, owned brand, Azzaro, is doing pretty “and there has been an investment in us, well, particularly in South America, which has been very, very powerful.” where it ranks number one in Brazil. “The brand has been terrific,” says Mi- Chrome sells well in the U.S. chael Gould, chairman and chief execu- Clarins also has a number of licensed tive officer of Bloomingdale’s. “They have fragrance brands, such as David Yur- been a great partner. We more than tri- man, Porsche Design and Swarovski. Of pled the business in the last three years. It those, Shearer is less enthused. “I have goes to show what a relationship can do.” to say candidly that we have not been as GIUS Howard Kreitzman, Bloomingdale’s successful with our licensed product as A vice president and divisional merchan- we have been with our own products. ORENZO ORENZO dise manager, recalls that goals were set That’s across the range, if you will. We’re L starting in year one and everyone at the happy, it’s a decent job, but we’ve not counter was focused on the finish line. In been as successful.”

addition, there was a well-organized, dis- When the conversation turns to ge- CHINSEE GEORGE BY PHOTOGRAPH BY PHOTOGRAPH

%%3*;:(//&ODULQVDLQGG 30  WWDBEAUTY INC 25

ography, Shearer says he is focused on China, as is he asks. “The spa channel for us is a good way to the rest of the industry. He tells a story of a prod- demonstrate expertise, sell products and relay it.” uct introduction in Asia that also illustrates how Referring to untilled emerging markets in gen- Clarins has always operated. In the late Nineties, eral, he adds, “You could couple [the spas] with Jacques Courtin-Clarins was in Japan, listen- all sorts of Web sites and e-commerce and that’s ing to customers complain that their faces were how you could mushroom it into a new distribu- round, instead of V-shaped like Caucasians. It is tion way.” caused by the fact that there are five concentra- In Brazil, which has a large fragrance market, tions of fat deposits in Asian faces, resulting in Azzaro Pour Homme ranks number one in the the round shape. Courtin-Clarins developed a men’s market, giving Clarins a platform for future product, Shaping Facial Lift, which purports to growth. “We are working around anchoring the slim the fat deposits. It launched in 2000, was brand around a couple of concepts, meaning prob- followed by another version four years later, then ably a couple of freestanding stores—spas coupled upgraded recently and introduced in China “to with a digital way to promote and sell the brand. extraordinary results.” He noted, “that’s one way SPEED RACER He admits that Brazil is particularly complex. “Ev- of developing Asia.” ery state has a different tax. It’s very complicated.” Shearer says the company will do more products Clarins’ chief executive o!cer Philip Shearer may But, he observes, “The complexity will go away be at the helm of a major beauty firm, but he’s tailored for Asia and “we are staffing up, as is every- within 20 years.” also an avid racer. His most recent purchase: a SR8 one.” The idea is to market the brand to the people When that day comes, a new idea of distribution RX Radical Sportscar racer. The 180,000 euro car and the country. “The Chinese travel a lot. China is ($223,000 at current exchange) runs a max speed will emerge, perhaps a combination of stores and on fire. Hong Kong is growing at rates you would of 180 miles per hour with SPA lap time of two e-commerce. He points out that Brazilians have not imagine. The travel retail business in that part minutes and 60 seconds. The 2.7-liter V8 engine become partial to the direct selling model, as evi- of the world is very strong.” develops a 460-brake horsepower and can go from denced by the success of Natura and Avon. “I don’t Discussing the company’s past problems, Euro- zero to 60 mph in 2.7 seconds and 50 to 100 mph in think Brazil will repeat the same investment in monitor’s Jian notes, “Clarins has been in China for 4.3 seconds. Radical claims the car has been proven brick and mortar that the U.S. made,” Shearer says. many years. However, it did not benefit significantly to be the fastest point-to-point road-legal track car Mexico is another bright spot, due to the strong from that market’s huge growth potential. The com- money can buy. —JAYME CYK presence of the Liverpool department store chain, pany’s limited brand and product portfolio, the un- which has a 55 percent market share. “We’re pretty willingness to adapt to the local market, the limited strong in Mexico,” he says. distribution network were to blame. Clarins has a good herbal focus in its products, Shearer shows signs of having been engaged in a long process since joining Cla- which in theory sits really well with Chinese consumers, who have a high level of rins, but it is an effort that he clearly relishes with all the confidence of knowing trust on herbals and plants, thanks to their heritage of traditional Chinese medi- he is on the right track. He seems to feel right with it, just like the racing, which he cine. But they haven’t been active in customizing products to suit local preferences. cannot stay away from. After winning the The Ferrari Challenge F355 for North In addition, its limited spending on marketing and advertising were overshadowed America in 2001, he gave up racing seven years ago, then recently began edging by heavyweights of the likes of L’Oréal and Estée Lauder, restricting brand and back into the sport. His return was partially prompted by a desire to team up with product awareness among consumers. There is a lot more to be done for Clarins to a fellow racer who is coping with a serious form of arthritis. fully enjoy an uplifting premium cosmetics market locally and globally.” Shearer knows the value of endurance. Most mornings he can be found jog- Shearer also is paying attention to South Korea. “The Koreans are extraordi- ging in a nearby park. On May 6, he completed a half marathon in the Humboldt nary people, among the best-educated people in the world, extraordinarily com- Redwoods State Park in Northern California, near Eureka. Called the Avenue of petitive and hard workers.” He speculates that one day North and South Korea the Giants, the course threads its way through a forest of giant sequoia trees, per- will be combined. “The potential for growth in that country is still very big.” haps a reminder of the towering competition Clarins faces in the global cosmetics A number of executives remark on the versatility of Shearer’s background, hav- industry. —With contributions from Jennifer Weil ing worked for Elizabeth Arden, L’Oréal and Lauder and served in Mexico, Japan, the U.K., the U.S. and now France. This gives him an intimate knowledge of the inner workings of many of the major brands in the world and relationships with top retailers around the globe. As a result, he is both attracted personally and put on his guard by the subject of Japan. The land of the rising sun has long been described by industry executives as Fast Forward: Philip Shearer’s Strategic Vision the most competitive beauty market in the world, and Shearer compares it to the 1. Winning Is Everything: Identifying achievable goals and nailing them bloodiest battle of World War I, the Somme. “Today the market is not growing,” gives the team the confidence to score big successes. he says. “I am a challenger and there are some very strong competitors. In terms 2. Focus on the Face: With well-developed body and sun care businesses, of locating resources, I have to be careful. The payoff to a huge effort is actually Shearer is concentrating on the sweet spot of the U.S. market: facial skin care. small to what I could get in other countries.” 3. Less Is More: Shearer lowered both product prices and door count in the U.S. Latin America, however, is another story. Shearer sees the opportunity there and increased investment. Consequently, sales soared, with the number of $1 million GIUS A and he’s trying to puzzle out the difficulties, particularly the lack of retail infra- doors increasing from three to nearly 10. structure and the high import duties in Brazil. 4. Service Station: Clarins is capitalizing on its in-store spas as a key point of ORENZO ORENZO L “It’s a big hurdle to have duties and all that stuff, but at the same time there’s no di!erentiation as it develops markets around the world. distribution, so we’ll have to create it and I think that’s fascinating.” 5. Staying the Course: Be it building emerging markets like Brazil or He suggests that the key for Clarins can be found in the spas. “The question is, China or filling the holes in product assortment, Shearer always stays adamantly

PHOTOGRAPH BY GEORGE CHINSEE GEORGE BY PHOTOGRAPH BY PHOTOGRAPH do you have a brand that has the attributes that can work in different channels?” focused on the finish line.

%%3*;:(//&ODULQVDLQGG 30  Clea n THE METROSEXUAL IS ALIVE AND WELL IN CHINA, WHERE A NEW GENERATION OF MEN ARE TURNING TO PERSONAL GROOMING TO GIVE THEM AN EDGE, BE IT FOR WORK OR PLEASURE. BY CASEY HALL

n recent years, the emergence of a whole new demographic of Chi- nese consumer has been making a significant splash in the groom- ing category—and is becoming a driving force behind a multibil- Cutlion dollar beauty business. Known as du shi yu nan, or “city jade men,” these guys are the metrosexuals of the East and they’re not afraid to show it, spending increasing amounts of money in a sector that has been traditionally driven by women. For this group, good grooming is a way of getting ahead—in both their work life and their love life. According to Euromonitor, the men’s grooming market in China grew at three times the rate of its female counterpart last year. And this is just the beginning, with the market research firm predicting growth of almost 30 percent per year until 2014. International players, including L’Oréal, Proctor & Gamble, Nivea and Mentholatum, have proven particularly popular with Chinese men, who are attracted by the reputation for good quality IPHOTOGRAPHED BY RODOLFO MARTINEZ / STYLED BY ALEX BADIA

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Model: Eric Thai At Ford Models; Grooming by Enrico Mariotti using Leonor Greyl at See Management.

%%3*;:(//0HQ*URRPLQJDLQGG 30  %%3*;:(//0HQ*URRPLQJDLQGG 28 engage in grooming to repair daily damage—it’s crucial,” environment. his skin from the damage inflictedlogically by China’s concludes, harsh being purposes. urban preservation for is a !ort e manthis all to is not going to protect just aboutlookinggood. moisturizer, sunblock and occasionallyshame, Zong BB saysCream hisis notdaily routine of face wash, serum, can.” you that extent made an e! ort and if you perfect“ says. Zong your appearance to the factors that create the impressionyou haveyou make your on hair—is others,” important in that it is one of the right impression. fashion are equally important whenpersonal it comes and toprofessional making the success.who hasHe saysno doubt grooming his appearance and Ci Zong isa is a key factor to care,buttheyarestarting theroaddiscovery,onto withpercent65 men nowof that Chinese men are still not as open as European men in terms of skin and body P&GmarketsGillette, dominant theChina’sbrand in shaving sector. Donysays freeof hang-ups about the supposed femininity of skin care and good grooming. business,ing disagrees withPerakis-Valat’s assessment Chinesebeingofasmen that take their toll on everyone’s skin. asBeijing and Shanghai, isdominated bycold, wintersdry and humid summers be more comfortable with their friends, find theirthere significantis a product other, that can they help will me have use it.”a bettersaying familythatusingbeauty a product life,woman’s moreaisof a thing.better Theythinkthat ifprofessional life, vantage in an increasingly competitive world. ad an as perceive they anything on money big spending to open so them makes care products in China is a huge advantage for brands looking to expandPerakis-Valat here. believesculturallackof thatthe taboos surrounding skinandmen pany’sworld-widemen’spotential development,groomingofforterms sales.In bant’s analysis, noting that Chinese sales constitute an “important” slice of the com other markets.” marketsworld,theincertainly already is showing potential thatdoesn’t existin other to comparedChina, in men’sbusiness “The says.Brabant ago,” de years only get bigger in the future. bant, Li & Associates, China is L’Oréal’s biggest male grooming market, and executiveit officerwill and founding partner of market research firm Saint Pierre, Bra chief current and L’Oréalexecutiveformer a Brabant,de Charles toaccording ate has also released L’Oréal Men’s Expert, Garnier and Kérastase for Men. Now,conglomercosmeticsFrench the 2003, in HommeBiothermlaunching Since any chances with lotions and potions designed for use on their face. the land of ever-present food and product scandals, and people don’t want to take productsinternationalthat establish.all,brandsaftertois,haveablebeen This L’Oréalcontrols47percent a sharethisnew-found of “cityjademen” market. Alexander Dony, managing director of Proctor & Gamble’s Asia Pacific groom Another important factor is China’s environment, which, in first-tier cities such “Chinesemenhavetaboos,” no saysPerakis-Valat. “Therearecultural no taboos that people Chinese of pragmatism the is itUltimately, Perakis-Valat says, Bra de corroborates Perakis-Valat, Alexis officer, executive chief China’s L’Oréal “L’Oréal’s business in China became the biggest on the men’s side three or four “Whether you’re male or female, everyone needs to With a skin care regime that puts many women to “ S kin—like the clothes that you wear and the way that

WWD S Y hanghai-based, 28-year-old brand director ou earn other people’s respect if you have  BEAU T Y IN A C more serious reason he goes

A "er all, he Meet the Metrosexuals grooming is important to ensure factors—fromthat your skin the is climate,the best from“ says. Zong dust, from pollution—so brand loyal. Willing to try di!as Kiehl’serent and things, he says versions. male-centric own girlfriends’ products before headingeven ifout many to purchaseof them aretheir starting Chinese out by men sampling starting their to take an Y interest in skin care, has not reached the level of development he sees in New into adulthood. and the habit of being well-groomedshave-downs has stayed in orderwith him to cut secondsA from his race times, was introduced to grooming whensplits histimebetween he was very young. that itcan be.” ork, King says he has noticed more and more young s a swimmer from the age of 6, King underwent regular A While he admits that the grooming industry in China A lthough King says he prefers more niche brands, such rthur King, a 26-year-old investment banker who  E veryone’s skin is subject to damaging A nthony L S ogistics, he isn’t particularly hanghai andNew ------D skin care, much of P&G’s market share is in the blades and shaving market. men’s grooming market in China. long way to go for international players before they see an end a toisinfancytheresector’smeans itsthethat developmentin factthestill the isand growth in the men’sperceptionChina,changingofthegrooming inare continues, Dony who cation commonly used in China for those born after 1980 and 1990 respectively), need,” Dony says. life daily a thanbehavior, ratherfeminine a as care skin of mind-set the with struggling still are men Chinese [regimes], care body and care skin complete using facialcleansers,rather thansoapandwater. world, that particularly among the young population, from 20 to 40 years old,western wethe ofinfluence the and classmiddlegrowing disposable theincomes, growingthe ofbecause that is seeingare we whatyears,recent “In says,India, ensuring they look the part of a successful, modern Chinese man. toosodoes the urge pamperto themselves, spendto sometheirof extra cashon uralextension economicof development. men’sAs disposable income increases, categories.”uct prod dominatesother other categoriesthe and product dominatescertain one presence and P&G would probably dominate. So you could say it’s split because lacks L’Oréal where areas all are men’sgrooming—those of part all are which deodorants— or products shaving at look you if “But Brabant. de brand,”says and on the mass premium side, L’Oréal Paris is indisputably the most successful “If you look at premium skin care, Biotherm is indisputably the best brand, best the indisputably is Biotherm care, skin premium at look you “If It is the trend-setting post-Eighties and post-Nineties generations (the classifi “[If you take the] European market as a benchmark, where nearly all men have Shushmul Maheshwari, chief executive of RNCOS, a research firm based in based firm research a RNCOS, of executiveMaheshwari,chief Shushmul a nat been has China in men’s grooming in growth extensive the ways, In many Y ork, says he tor—whileL’Oréal’s brands dominate hair,in beauty and sec the of differentparts in liestrengths their that out war between L’Oréal and P&G, Charles de Brabant points espite talk among some in the industry of a market-share that Chinesemenare seeking to improve themselves.” social situation,” Zong says. “This is a process. goodthe in themselves better to seeking trend. and aware, It is good is happy to see hiscountrymen becoming increasingly self- believes that a little bit of groomingis directly can golinked a long to way the andcountry’s men’s economicrapidly prosperity.increasing interest He in grooming and skin care grooming features inmagazines suchas he buys, checking out online reviewsKing, Zongas well meticulously as men’s researchesDior products and Chanel before to Clinique and Origins. However, unlike it, I keep using it,” King says.checking things out. I just look whatand tryI should it once be using.and if II don’tlike really have a set way of moisturizer; healsousesaweekly mask. and “nongreasy” are key attributesfinding somethingthatworks isimportant.“ he looks for in a “Grooming shows respect for others and respect for the A S “I know my skin type—I’m a little bit oily—and I know imilarly, Zong usesavariety ofbrands, from ccording to Zong, the primary reason for Chinese GQ and L ight” L Esquire a Mer, . - - - - 30

PHOTO BY WENG LEI/IMAGINE CHINA %%3*;:(//0HQ*URRPLQJDLQGG PHOTO BY WENG LEI/IMAGINE CHINA interconnected with who you are,” Xu says. “If you have a good job and have a have and job good a have you are,”“If says.you Xu who with interconnected deal—it’sthe of part is appearance their now but make, they money much how he doesn’t expect to see going away any time soon. of how good they look in comparison to their peers is a new development, but one tical and going to get them what they need, then they are going to do it,” he says. get a wife. They’re going to do this because it will help them get a job—if it’s prac men are going to get into grooming and skin care because it’s going to help them canintheirpersonalandprofessionallives. edge they demonstratingareanothermenway societal successgivingthemselvesand any a nice car, looking good can’t hurt a young man’s prospects, either. thoughthe prerequisites for marriageablea man are still primarily property and that there will be 24 million more single men than available women by 2020. Al na’s current male-to-female ratio imbalance is leading demographers to estimate numberfactors,resultaof ofwhichcompetitionleast notofis women:forChi on youth, but they do want to be seen as clean-cut and well-maintained at any age.” groomed,but not necessarily young. Idon’t think men attach such an importance on antiaging than female spa-goers in China. this,”woulddonot Xucontinues, addingthatalsoseemmenmuch lessfocused customersMale result. fantastic a has butcomfortable, so isn’t thattreatment result,”a takebeauty.thetypically“Womenwouldsays. suffer forwillXu They afraid topay forit. arebecoming increasinglyan savvy bunchwho knowwhat theywant andaren’t Chinese capital, but these days, 60 percent of his customers are Chinese, and they years ago. Back then, most of his clients were foreign men livingfive Beijing in or in visitingFeng men’s-only de the theSpa started who Xu,Joseph is China in onskincareandgroomingproducts. men arealsopreparedtospendmoney sameperiod.theinGiven thiscontext,shouldn’t huge surprise it a come asthat with expensive brands in 2010, dwarfing the $444 milliona report fromspent Bain & Co.,by ChineseChinese men spentwomen $1.1 billion stocking their wardrobesluxury goods sector. In China, luxury spending is dominated by men. According to have fashionandgroomingconscious.” agroupthat isbecomingvery “The traditional measure for a man has been what kind of job they have and have they job of kind what been has man a for measure traditional “The Xu agrees, noting that the idea of men in China measuring themselves in terms “The biggest cultural difference, at least compared to the West, is that Chinese Because China’s culture is highly peer-influenced, de Brabant says grooming is the likelymost is menChinese young appearanceamong on focus new This “They are more interested in cleansing,” he says. “They want to be clean and well- “I find men are more focused on the comfort of the treatment itself, rather than One person who has had a front-row seat for the emergence of male grooming Thisgrowing awareness fashionof hasalready madehugea impact China’son  - - - Keneshiro, [it] went well beyond L’Oréal’s expectations,” de Brabant says. “Wom dreams and fulfilling needs that you don’t even knowthatdreams andfulfillingneedsthat youneed.” youdon’teven capturing about it’s needs, fulfilling about not is business this “Butcontinues. doyou need?’ I’m not sure we would have come up with anything,” Perakis-Valat anoffer-driven industry,” he says. “If we had asked men in China in 2003, ‘What economic success. whohave been born and raised onthe promise ofincredible and unprecedented future,thesellingandpastaspirationaltheof an lifestylegenerations to menof ed—even to L’Oréal—he also emphasizes the importance of their strategy, in both products, there is little doubt they will jump whole-heartedly on the bandwagon. groomingmale by soldaspirationalbeingdiscover thestorythey once and hai, soap and water just aren’t going to cut it anymore. thatidea the to countryside,oncatch the in thoseeventuallyeven centers,and regionalChina’s in men country,as the in growthexplosive further guarantee willinfluence this sayAnalysts centers.major the from men the byinfluenced Chinamainland withinfourth-tiercities and third- second-, from men are too influence fromplaceslike Japan andTaiwan intermsoflooks.” an is thereshows which Chinese,mainland he’s not and notesright the hit he enloved him and men found him attractive. They could aspire to be like him. So “Part of it is flair, part of it is luck and it is a good example of our industry being Although Perakis-Valat admits that L’Oréal’s China success has been unexpect These men are just as ambitious as China’s market leaders in Beijing and Shang first-tierJustChineseinmenas citiesinfluenced areabroad, from men so by China’s RisingManPower: 5Key Points men from themajorcenters. This influence shouldguarantee future growth. abroad, so too are men from the smaller citiesThe RippleE!ect: in mainland China influenced by grooming products for theirsignificant others. Get theGirl: 2020, Chinesemen willcontinue to place ahighpremium ontheirlooks. Numbers Game: who are particularlyopento influence from Western brands. Guns: Young China willgrow 30percent annuallythrough 2014. Grooming isBooming: As in other markets, women are o!en the first purchasers of The sector is primarily being driven by young men aged 20 to 40, With an estimated 24 million more single men than women by Just as men in first-tier cities are influenced by trends from products products for their menfolk, introducing them to the sector. purchasegroomingpeopletofirst theoften are who en, emulate these celebrities, but also, importantly, with wom mainland,tothewant provenwhoon successmen with halfTaiwaneseis halfandJapanese. Thislineuphadhas Keneshiro,BiothermtheArmanispokespersonand who bornDaniel Wu; EthanRuan, fromTaiwan, andTakeshi inspiration. yond theirownbordersforaesthetic be looking are men Chinese that China within prospects apparent from much of the advertising of men’s cosmetics inChina, with theimmense popularity ofBBCream, itis women’s thecosmetics Korea’smarket influenceple, on exam forof,scale the on not is cultures.itAsianThough pan- and Western of influence increasing the is products hard-earnedtheirovercaregroomingskinfor andyuan ance department.” appear- the in lacking be can’t you then lifestyle, good I yu ae h luc o Bohr wt Takeshi with Biotherm of launch the take you “If American- include China in spokespeople L’Oréal’s hand to men Chinese young enticing factorAnother Euromonitor predicts the men’s grooming market in WWD  BEAU T Y IN Q

C

29 ------30 30 WWDBEAUTY INC NEW DAY DAWNING AT THE WWD BEAUTY CEO SUMMIT, THE INDUSTRY’S BRIGHTEST THINKERS PRESENTED A BLUEPRINT FOR NOT JUST SURVIVING THE SOCIOCULTURAL AND ECONOMIC CHANGES THAT ARE ROCKING THE WORLD—BUT THRIVING. BY JENNY B. FINE / ILLUSTRATIONS BY JOSUE EVILLA

“MY DEAR FRIENDS, WELCOME TO MARS.” ing,” said Agon. “They are critical and combative, but they are So began Jean-Paul Agon, the chief executive officer of also very creative, involved, even to the point of making sugges- L’Oréal, as he stood at the podium in Palm Beach to deliver tions about products or advertising campaigns. The consumer, the opening address of the 2012 WWD Beauty CEO Summit, a in fact, has become the best prescriber and the best spokesper- small smile on his face belying the seriousness in his eyes. son for our brands.” Standing in a darkened ballroom in front of 275 executives “Consumers are calling the shots,” agreed Jose Barra, Target’s from around the world, an enormous red sphere rising behind senior vice president of health care and beauty. “If the product or him on the screen, Agon outlined the extraordinary changes that brand they are looking for is not offered, they’ll switch to a dif- have forever changed the dynamics of the beauty industry. ferent one. A company’s ability to anticipate, innovate and break His message was clear: Beauty is at the dawn of a revolution- boundaries is increasingly becoming an indicator of its ability to ary new world order. And while aspiration remains the axis survive, let alone grow.” around which the industry will always revolve, adapting to the John Demsey, group president of the Estée Lauder Cos. Inc., rapidly changing landscape is critical for companies who wish noted that the sociocultural upheaval rocking the world is akin to avoid extinction. to the seismic shifts of the Seventies, which forever altered the “We operate in a world that has changed very quickly and very status quo. “There has never been a time in history quite like profoundly,” said Agon. “And this is only the beginning.” now,” he said. “Today’s world is exceedingly more fragmented, Indeed, change—and the consumer’s role as key instigator— undeniably fast changing and requires new thinking on our was the prevailing theme at the summit. part. Today we are living in a mash-up of cultures...a world “Consumers today are totally diverse, they are perfectly in- where luxury shoppers feel just as comfortable shopping in formed, they are hard to capture, they are increasingly demand- Target as in Saks...in which subgroups are pulling us into ter-

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ritories and geographies that would not even be considered important in crucial the best stories,” said Demsey. “Brands have become the media properties of what markets 20 years ago. magazines used to be or continue to be, only to another level....When I think back “No more top down, no more telling and selling,” Demsey declared. “We have to on the role of PR, global communications, marketing, to the idea of consumer en- widen our perspective, listen and learn.” gagement, CRM, trade marketing, there is a blurring of all these lines right now, Listen and learn: It was a point amplified over the course of the three-day whereas everybody is a platform, everybody has content and everybody is selling.” meeting by each of the 18 speakers, whether they hailed from Melbourne or Min- nesota, Manhattan or Mumbai. Together, they pointed the way to a bright future. HEEDING CULTURAL IMPERATIVES Here, the key takeaways. Wherever in the world John Demsey travels, he has a set routine: He has his team assemble the region’s top fashion and celebrity magazines, he tunes in to the local OPPORTUNITY ABOUNDS version of MTV and he hits the streets to absorb street culture. “When we plug into “The gradual awakening of the new world, which is now emerging, has completely the mash-up of what’s going on around us and read between the tweets, we see the transformed our industry,” said Agon. “New markets will surpass mature markets opportunities for our industry to get a piece of the global picture,” he said. “I like to in size in three years time. And three of these new markets—China, Brazil and Rus- refer to it as the granularity of aspiration...It’s important to put yourself in the con- sia—are already in the top five markets of the world.” text of where you are because those are the people who buy our products and they Citing a Goldman Sachs report, Elizabeth Arden ceo E. Scott Beattie quantified are the ones who aspire to a better life. the opportunity. “They predicted the emerging markets for household and personal “If we pay attention to popular culture, it will tell us what people desire,” he con- care products will grow 8 percent a year for the next 40 years,” he said. “This is tinued. “And when we know what people desire, we will know best how to respond.” a $2 trillion opportunity in our industry. The premium cosmetics segment of the For Agon, that concept led to the creation of his doctrine of universalization, in personal care space is going to be one of the very which brands are globalized but products and fastest-growing elements of this. The future, our formulas are localized, adapted to different cul- growth [potential] is phenomenal.” tures. “We call it geo-cosmetics,” he said. “That While many are focused on the BRIC coun- takes into account both the consumer’s physical tries—Brazil, Russia, India, China—smaller qualities—her skin, her hair—but also the cul- countries, too, possess great promise. Noting tural specificities.” that the current distribution structure in China Desirée Rogers agreed. The ceo of Johnson makes it difficult to turn a profit there, Revlon Publishing was speaking specifically about ceo Alan Ennis said, “There are huge markets in black consumers in the U.S., but her point was Asia—India being a significant one, but the Phil- global in scope.“There is a new premium on ippines, Indonesia, Malaysia—that sometimes being who you are,” she said. “In order to stay get overlooked. China gets all the press. But, with the younger consumers, the iconic images excluding India, there’s a billion people in those have to constantly change to reflect the looks of other Southeast Asian markets. So our strat- the day. There’s no right and no wrong. Those egy has been to find high-quality distributors in companies that choose a cookie-cutter approach those markets and go after them as aggressively without developing a real relationship with con- as we do in China.” sumers will ultimately lose.” It’s not just new markets, however. Graciela Truly understanding the nuances and needs of Eleta, a senior vice president of Univision, not- a given market is the only way to achieve success. ed that the U.S. Latino market is currently 50 million strong and is expected to Doing so is easier said than done. Take India, for example, one of the most im- double by 2050 to 132 million, or 30 percent of the total population. “We have an portant emerging countries for most cosmetics giants. “India is about 3.2 million emerging nation within a nation right here in our backyard,” she said. “And this is square kilometers, with 35 provinces, 649 districts, 5,000 towns and 640,000 vil- a consumer who is beauty-obsessed. When Global Insights looks at the next five lages. Twenty-three languages are spoken and 1,600 dialects,” said Vivek Bali, vice years, they predict that 35 percent of the growth in beauty and personal care in president and business head of cosmetics and fragrances in the lifestyle division of the U.S. will come from Latinas.” Reliance Retail Ltd. The result is an incredibly complex consumer base, each of whom wants spe- DIGITAL CHANGES EVERYTHING cific products. “Brands need to understand the ladies’ beauty needs like no one else The ongoing digital revolution has transferred power from corporations to con- does,” said Bali. “We need to design shades for the Indian complexion. Indians are sumers and fundamentally changed the relationship between brands, retailers and fair, brown, wheatish, olive and dark, and the most popular makeup colors are ma- the end user. First some numbers: As Agon noted, 78 percent of all beauty sales are roons, mauves, pinks and browns. And red is very festive.” directly influenced by the Internet. There are more than five billion cell phones in Whether it’s knowing the preferred form of shampoo (sachets) or personal care use today globally, while in China alone, the number of online buyers of beauty is (talc has been replaced by deodorant, which is quickly being overtaken by body spray), expected to reach 80 million by 2015. the ramifications are clear. India, where 65 percent of the country is below the age of “There has been a seismic shift in the flattening of the playing field driven by 35 and the middle class population has tripled since 1996, represents the future. technology,” said Beattie. “The Internet and social media together have redefined Equally as important, though, is recognizing consumer diversity in one’s own the concept of point of sale and dramatically impacted every single one of us.” backyard. Iman delivered an impassioned message to the mass retailers in atten- Teen Vogue’s Eva Chen reported that 91 percent of her readers use their mobile dance. “I can honestly tell you that people are desperately looking for brands that devices while they’re shopping and 80 percent sleep with their cell phones. “Our they can believe in right here at home,” she said, noting that she’s never understood readers are living online,” she said, “and if you’re not on it, you are missing out on why retailers set apart products for women of color into an ethnic beauty aisle and the conversation.” carry such brands only in select stores. “I think personally if a black woman or black Creating content and a dialogue with consumers isn’t a maybe for brands to- family or Latina family is shopping in your pharmacy, she would probably buy the day. It’s a must. “The brands that break through the noise are the brands that have cosmetics line if it was there.”

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Horgan, who noted that 20 percent of Mecca’s IT’S AN OMNICHANNEL WORLD business comes from events. “We are big believers in omnichannel,” declared Marigay McKee, Harrods’ chief merchant, re- Muriel Gonzalez, Macy’s Inc.’s executive vice vealed the formula that she and her team created president and general merchandise manager to adapt to the digital challenge. “In the Eighties, for cosmetics, fragrances and shoes. “If a cus- department stores were like schools. The sales tomer shops in store and online, the data is associates were the teachers, and the custom- that she spends more than if she is a shopper ers were the pupils. In the Nineties, department in just a single channel.” To that end, Macy’s has stores became more like hospitals and the sales implemented a new search-and-send program associates became doctors to the customer’s pa- and opened eight fulfillment stores, a number tient,” she said. “Today, stores have become like Gonzalez said would increase to 250 within the homes and hotels, where the associates are hosts year. “The old barriers between who got credit and the customers are our guests, who we invite for the sale and where it came from or how in to experience our hospitality.” much it cost to ship it, that’s really all gone,” said At Harrods, which derives half of its traffic from Gonzalez, “because she is just a better consumer the tourist trade, that hospitality is very alluring and spends more and is more satisfied with us if indeed: cocktail parties, fashion shows, extended we make it easier for her.” opening hours—even 75 China Union pay termi- Joe Magnacca, president of daily living products and solutions at Walgreens, nals to make the transaction seamless for those customers. Harrods invites really high agreed. “We want to serve everyone across all channels. And we really don’t care rollers to special events like a couture show in Paris or a gallery exhibition in Milan. if she walks into a store, if she orders online and picks up in store or just orders While that’s the exception rather than the rule, exclusives have become a crucial online,” he said. “We just care that she is satisfied with her order, because it really is point of differentiation. “When I first got to Harrods, I asked the beauty office, ‘How her world, not ours.” He cited figures showing that a customer who shops in store many exclusives do we have this year?’” McKee recalled, incredulous when she heard and via mobile is 3.5 times more valuable than in-store alone, and someone who the answer of four or five. “I was like, ‘There’s 52 weeks and 365 days in a year!’” shops in store, online and on mobile is six times more valuable. “That’s why we play Today, Harrods has on average 250 to 300 product exclusives every year. in all of those areas across our business. We want to create that accessibility,” he Horgan pointed out that shoppers respond not just to newness in the product said. “And that’s probably why Amazon wants to play with bricks and mortar, too.” realm, but in the retail arena, too. “We try to change the store completely every While Macy’s and Walgreens may have successfully integrated once-disparate month—from the windows to the visual merchandising to what the staff wear,” she worlds, many observed that it was time to do the same with the traditional de- said. “There’s only so much newness that brands can bring,” she continued. “As a marcations between mass and prestige retailing in the U.S. “The beauty industry retailer, we have to take responsibility for creating that sense of newness ourselves.” has been slow to embrace and accept the consumer’s new reality,” said Barra. “We are still branding our products for a channel rather than for the consumer. But LEADING THE CHARGE the equity of a brand is not defined by this channel as it may have been in the past. Leadership that meets the changing mores of today was a recurrent theme woven So clearly there is a tremendous opportunity for all of us today to reimagine our throughout the presentations. John Paul DeJoria, the cofounder and ceo of John current approach.” Paul Mitchell Systems, delivered a call to action to the attendees: Build your indus- Magnacca’s goals were equally bold. “We are trying to take a leadership posi- try and you’ll build your company. DeJoria, who also created Patrón Tequila, told of tion in prestige beauty,” he said, noting that whereas once Duane Reade, now an ad that a rival tequila brand created bashing Patrón. Rather than retaliate with owned by Walgreens, was so synonymous with poor service there was an entire another negative campaign, Patrón ran a series of public service ads outlining the Web site devoted to complaining about it, now the retailer sells fresh sushi in benefits the company brought to the community where the liquor is made and its select flagships. (“It’s actually excellent,” Magnacca insisted.) philanthropic efforts around the world. On a global level, the omnichannel world takes on even more significance. Speak- “Not one company was knocked,” said DeJoria. “It talked about the tequila indus- ing of countries that don’t yet have a well-developed retail infrastructure, such as try unlike anyone’s ever seen it. Did this help out the tequila industry? Heck, yes. Brazil, India and certain areas in the Middle East, Beattie asked, “If you’ve never Sales grew last year,” he said. experienced retail infrastructure like malls or a high street, why is there necessarily “Did it help out Patrón?” he continued. “Last year, Patrón became the number- going to be the preference to buy product there? Why not just go immediately to a one by dollar volume tequila company in the world.” mobile platform and buy products that way?” Changing times call not only for a reassessment of how you do business exter- nally, but internally as well. Agon and Beattie both spoke of the need to create de- EXPERIENCE THE DIFFERENCE centralized, flat organizations with a strong central vision. “It needs to be agile,” said In a world dominated by digital, traditional retailers are in the fight of their lives. At Beattie. “It needs to be opportunistic.” the summit, retailers were unanimous that survival depends on providing consum- “The way we manage our companies and the way we manage the people who ers with unparalleled, knock-your-socks-off experiences. “A transactional model work for our companies is changing,” declared Chuck Rubin, ceo of Ulta. Eschew- doesn’t work anymore,” said Wendy Liebmann, ceo of WSL Strategic Retail, during ing both democratic and dictatorial models, Rubin said that creating a meritocracy, a panel moderated by Mecca Cosmetica’s Jo Horgan and also featuring Nars ceo rewarding only those who truly step up, create ideas and execute against them, is Louis Desazars. “We have to build a different level of engagement.” the way to ensure success today. “We need employees who don’t feel entitled, but Horgan noted that in an Australian beauty market that is shrinking by 5 per- instead feel motivated to contribute and then be rewarded,” he said. “As leaders, our cent per annum, Mecca posted 10 percent same-store comps last year, attributing role is to distinguish those people who strive.” that success to programs that captivated the customer. For example, Mecca staged Zhuo (Joe) Wang, executive vice president of Shanghai Jahwa, agreed, as he a makeup artistry event based on the Nars book, Make Up Your Mind, in which spoke of his company’s attempts to turn its Herborist brand into a global player, acetate overlays provided clear before/after and how-to guidance. “As a result, we noting that insistence helped build the brand. “It’s about staying the course,” he did over 2,000 applications that month and the average basket was $280,” said said, “and avoiding self-inflicted setbacks.” Q

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Performance Goals JENNY B. FINE turns the spotlight on MARTINA ARFWIDSON. PHOTOGRAPHED BY HENRY LEUTWYLER

artina Arfwidson, the president of Face Stockholm, has a smile as bright as the Great White Way, and no Mwonder. She’s been dancing since the age of four, hosted a national TV series in her native Sweden when she was 15 and moved to New York at 18 to attend the Academy of Music and Dramatic Arts. She switched gears at 21, opening Face Stockholm’s first American store on West 79th Street. Founded by Arfwidson’s mother, Gun, in the early Eighties, Face has since blossomed into 27 freestanding stores worldwide and an additional 90 doors that carry the line. Most recently, the brand collaborated with J. Crew on a line of bright nail polishes and cheery lip colors, a partnership that is expected to expand further come fall. For Arfwidson, an education in the performing arts provided the perfect platform for her role presiding over a cosmetics company. “When you’re on stage, you have to be extremely focused, and you have to make sure your message comes across, whether it’s your own or someone else’s,” she says. “When you’re running a company, it’s also about conveying your message at all times.” One of her most valuable business lessons came from her theater teacher, Karen Gustafson, the first female music director on Broadway. “She used to tell us, ‘Good enough is not good enough,’” Arfwidson remembers, “and that has stayed very strongly with me. When you have a cosmetics counter or store, you always have to be better.” Today, Arfwidson lives in Hudson, N.Y., with her husband and two young children, and while she professes no desire to go on stage, she is still passionate about dancing. “When you dance, you can’t think of anything else. It is the quintessential meditation for me,” NDERSSON she says. “You are in the moment, and not A ELEN

contemplating anything except for what H you are doing at that very second.” MAKEUP AND HAIR BY MAKEUP AND HAIR BY

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Jean-Paul Agon John Demsey Iman Joseph C. Magnacca L’Oréal The Estée Lauder IMAN Cosmetics Walgreens Companies Inc.

Marc Puig Marigay McKee José Barra Desiree Rogers Puig Harrods Ltd. Target Johnson Publishing Company LLC

ADDITIONAL SPEAKERS Vivek Bali Reliance Retail Ltd. | E. Scott Beattie Elizabeth Arden Inc. | Jill Beraud Living Proof Inc. | Eva Chen Teen Vogue John Paul DeJoria John Paul Mitchell Systems | Louis Desazars NARS Cosmetics | Graciela Eleta Univision Communications Inc. Alan Ennis Revlon Inc. | Muriel Gonzalez Macy’s | Jo Horgan Mecca Cosmetica | Wendy Liebmann WSL Strategic Retail Chuck Rubin Ulta Beauty | Lesley Jane Seymour More | Zhuo (Joe) Wang Shanghai Jahwa United Co. Ltd.

CEO Summit 2012

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