THE BUSINESS OF BEAUTY HOW THE VERY DRIVEN PHILIP SHEARER IS POWERING CLARINS FORWARD ... VROOM,VROOM CHINA’S METROSEXUAL MANIFESTO MEETING OF THE MINDS KEY TAKEAWAYS FROM THE WWD BEAUTY CEO SUMMIT THE NEW WAVE photographed by Peter Gabriel WWDBEAUTY INC 3 FEATURES 20 D r i v i n g Force Putting the pedal to the metal, seasoned ceo and race car enthusiast Philip Shearer is fueling CONTENTS Clarins towards the number-one spot in the global prestige skin care market. 26 C l e a n Cut In China, the metrosexual is alive, well and extremely interested in personal grooming. Casey Hall reports from Shanghai on the new dynamic that’s having a profound impact on the beauty industry. 30 N e w Day Dawning Dealing with the challenges of a rapidly changing world was a key theme at the WWD Beauty CEO Summit held in May. Here, the top takeaways from beauty’s foremost meeting of the minds. DEPARTMENTS CORNER OFFICE 6 M a s t e r Class: Natural Wonder With her namesake beauty brand, entrepreneur Jane Iredale has helped propel mineral makeup from a product into a powerhouse. 8 M y First Job: Joan Lasker The TouchBack creator shares lessons learned from her beginnings as a beauty editor at Vogue. 9 B l a c k Book: Lori Singer The group vice president of global marketing at Coty Prestige reveals her favorite business and pleasure picks. BEAUTY BULLETIN 12 W e l l Rounded Whether for skin, hair or body, oils have been anointed as this summer’s hottest format. 13 L a u n c h Window The coolest products currently launching. 15 P a r i s Attractions Jennifer Weil visits the newest beauty boutiques in the City of Light. CONSUMER CHRONICLES 16 F r o m Sin City to Shopping Mecca Rachel Brown hits Las Vegas’ Fashion Show Mall in search of a new look. 18 S h o p p e r Stalker Who’s buying what—and why. MISC Jenna, Virginie, Prisca and 34 P e r f o r m a n c e Goals Talking star power with Face Claire Courtin- Stockholm’s Martina Arfwidson. Clarins, the third generation of the storied beauty dynasty. To discover where ceo Philip Shearer ON THE COVER: Philip Shearer photographed exclusively is taking the for WWD Beauty Inc at Le Castellet by Lorenzo Agius. Grooming company, turn to by Delphine Boyer. Production by Atelier Management. page 20. PHOTO BY STEVE EICHNER STEVE BY PHOTO WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2012 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. a"er the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 203, NO. 124. Saturday, June 16, 2012. 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If during your subscription term or up to one year MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. %%3*;72&DLQGG 30 4 WWDBEAUTY INC EDWARD NARDOZA EDITOR IN CHIEF, WWD EDITOR’S LETTER PETE BORN EXECUTIVE EDITOR, BEAUTY JENNY B. FINE EDITOR JENNIFER WEIL EUROPEAN EDITOR JULIE NAUGHTON SENIOR PRESTIGE MARKET BEAUTY EDITOR The Need for Speed MOLLY PRIOR BEAUTY FINANCIAL EDITOR FAYE BROOKMAN CONTRIBUTING EDITOR BELISA SILVA BEAUTY MARKET EDITOR, MASS hen Philip Shearer agreed to be photographed with his JAYME CYK EDITORIAL ASSISTANT new $225,000 Radical Sportscars racer, capable of going TIFFANY MEGNATH EDITORIAL INTERN KATIE KRETSCHMER COPY EDITOR from zero to 60 m.p.h. in 2.7 seconds, the opportunity ART was irresistible. The car presents the perfect metaphor for BARBARA SULLIVAN ART DIRECTOR Shearer’s career track. Currently the chief executive officer CONTRIBUTORS Wof Groupe Clarins, Shearer is a seasoned industry executive, one for whom SAMANTHA CONTI AND NINA JONES (London), MILES SOCHA (Paris), speed, agility and a firm fixation on the finish line (not to mention the KERRY OLSEN (Milan), MARCY MEDINA AND RACHEL BROWN (Los Angeles), MELISSA DRIER AND SUSAN STONE (Berlin), AMANDA KAISER (Tokyo) bottom line) have become hallmarks of his approach to business. His tenure at Clarins, which he joined four years ago, has already been PHOTO CARRIE PROVENZANO PHOTO EDITOR marked by a number of milestones: strategic expansion of the company’s digital LEXIE MORELAND ASSOCIATE PHOTO EDITOR operations, significant paydown of a $1 billion loan incurred when Clarins went JENNA GREENE ASSISTANT PHOTO EDITOR ERIN FITZGERALD STUDIO MANAGER private in 2008 and a reconception of the product line that has led to a jolt in sales. EILEEN TSUJI PHOTO COORDINATOR ROBERT COHEN PHOTO FACILITATOR Now, Shearer has set a bold goal: to make Clarins the number-one brand JOHN AQUINO, GEORGE CHINSEE, STEVE EICHNER, KYLE ERICKSEN, in the global prestige skin care market. To achieve that, Shearer and his team THOMAS IANNACCONE, ROBERT MITRA PHOTOGRAPHERS will have to power the brand to at least $1.6 billion in sales for 2012, CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS 30 percent higher than three years ago. Shearer slowed down recently to RUVEN AFANADOR, KENJI AOKI, DAN BORRIS, NIGEL DICKSON, BEN HASSETT, HENRY LEUTWYLER, MARK HANAUER, MICHAEL NAGLE, reveal to Pete Born how he plans on powering the company to that goal. JEFF RIEDEL, PHILIPPE SALOMON, DAVID LEWIS TAYLOR, YASU+JUNKO Read about his strategy in “Driving Force” on page 20. Shearer isn’t the only driven executive in the beauty business. At the 2012 BEAUTY INC ADVERTISING PAUL JOWDY VICE PRESIDENT, PUBLISHER, WWD WWD Beauty CEO Summit, held at The Breakers in Palm Beach in May, the JILL BIREN WEST COAST DIRECTOR COURTNEY HAZIRJIAN WEST COAST ACCOUNT MANAGER message was clear: Beauty’s top leaders are clearly focused on capitalizing on ODILE EDA-PIERRE ACCOUNT MANAGER, PARIS the opportunities created by the sociocultural, digital and economic revolutions MARKETING/CREATIVE SERVICES that have rocked the world over the past three years. “Our world has changed JANET MENAKER EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, MARKETING very profoundly and very quickly,” said Jean-Paul Agon, ceo of L’Oréal, as he laid EMILY CORTEZ CREATIVE SERVICES DIRECTOR KRISTEN M. WILDMAN EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, EVENT MARKETING out his manifesto for meeting the changes head-on. For insight into the six key MARJORIE KEATING PUBLIC RELATIONS DIRECTOR DANIELLE MCMURRAY DIRECTOR, INTEGRATED MARKETING AND SPECIAL PROJECTS takeaways from our biannual meeting of beauty’s most strategic thinkers, turn JENNIFER PINCUS DIRECTOR, INTEGRATED MARKETING to “New Day Dawning” on page 30. FABIO SALLES CREATIVE DIRECTOR JULIA DONAHUE COPY DIRECTOR Naturally, China was top of mind at the BRIANNA LIPOVSKY SENIOR MARKETING MANAGER summit, and on our minds this month JENNIFER BORCK SENIOR MANAGER, INTEGRATED MARKETING KRISTIN MOONEY MANAGER, EVENT MARKETING KEY POINTS as well. Specifically, an emerging group JAMIE RUDOLPH MANAGER, EVENT MARKETING FROM THIS ISSUE of beauty converts caught our eye—the ALISSA GROSS ASSOCIATE MANAGER, INTEGRATED MARKETING 5 JESSICA CASEY ASSOCIATE MANAGER, INTEGRATED MARKETING du shi yu nan, or “city jade men.” In the DANIELLE K.