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Beach Profile Change at St. Clair Beach, Dunedin

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Beach Profile Change at St. Clair Beach, Dunedin GEOGRAPHY IS KNOWING WHERE THE SURF IS PUMPING KAHUTARA MAY 1993 PHOTO: W. HAWKE BEACH PROFILE CHANGE AT ST. CLAIR BEACH DUNEDIN A thesis submitted in partial fullfillment of the requirements for the Degree of Master of Science in Geography in the University of Canterbury by M. J. Dyer University of Canterbury 1994 111 CONTENTS 1 Chapter One: Introduction 1.1: Introduction 3 1.2: Theoretical 5 1.3: Thesis 15 1.4: Thesis 16 Chapter Two: Introduction To The Study Area 2.1: 19 2.2: Local Geology «<«<••·······················-·······-··· ................................................................................................................. 19 2.3: The Otago Continental 24 2.3.1 Hydraulic ....... ...,,5 ,_ ..,.., ________·------··---- 25 2.3.1.1 Currents 25 2.3.1.2 26 2.3.1.3 27 2.3 .1.4 Sediment Transport 27 2.3.2 Sedimentation ______________ 28 2.3.2.1 The Biogenic Sand/Gravel Facies 29 2.3 .2.2 The Relict/Palimpsest Sand Facies... .. ·-· ...... 30 2.3.2.3 The Relict Terrigenous Gravel Facies 31 2.3.2.4 The Modem Terrigenous Sand Facies 31 2.4 Features of the Otago Coast_.......... 35 2.5 The Two Study ....,..,,.,...,H...,.., _____________ 39 2.5.1 Tomahawk 39 2.5 .2 St. Clair - Ocean Beach 42 2.6 47 lV Chapter Three: The Wind Environment 3.1 Introduction __"_" __ ,., ....... _""-·~"-...................... ___" ..................... "." ............. _.......... __ 49 3.2 The Otago Climatic Setting. _______.____ _ 50 3.3 Previous 50 3.4 The Influence of Local winds on the Nearshore Environment..... 53 3.5 Aeolian Sand 54 3.6 56 57 3.7.1 Individual Months _____________ 57 3.7 .2 Seasonal Analysis ________ 61 3.7.3 Total Study Period __ .. .. ................ ____ 61 3.8 Discussion________________ _ 63 Chapter Four: The Wave Environment 4.1 Introduction 71 4.2 Previous Local 72 4.3 76 4.3.1 Swell 76 4.3.2 Shore Based Observations 78 4.4 80 4.4.1 Swell ....... ....,lJVJ. _____;___ ____ .. ________ 80 4.4.1.1 Total Study Period Waverose ·····-·" ................ -" .."-·---- 80 4.4.1.2 Seasonal Waveroses. __________ 81 4.4.1.3 Individual Months Waveroses_"_.... _____ 83 4.4.1.4 Wave Heights~·······-..... ... ...... -" .... __ 87 4.4.1.5 Sea 89 4.4.2 Shore Based Observations 89 4.4.2.1 Total Study Period .................. - ..... - ........ ".... ...:..-..... -................. _ 89 4.4.2.2 Seasonal Analysis __.________ _ 91 4.4.2.3 Monthly Waveroses. __________ 91 4.4.2.4 Wave Heights_._....... "-· .......................... __.................................... --"·-·--"··--.. "- 94 4.4.2.5 Wave ...,.,. .. ~..,.rl-------~-------- 94 4.4.2.6 Inshore Sea States. ___________ 96 v 4.4.2. 7 Breaker 96 4.5 98 4.5.1 Swell Direction 98 4.5.2 Wave Heights 102 4.5.3 Wave 103 4.5.4 Breaker 103 4.5.5 Sea 104 4.6 'LJ\Jl.lv1Uo~J.V11o> __________________~--·---·· ····------------ 107 Chapter Five: Beach Profiles Changes 5.1 Introduction. ____ 111 5.2 Previous Local 111 5.3 112 5.4 115 5.4 .1 Profile ~ ...... ..................... .............. ............................................................................................................................................ .. 115 5.4.2 Profile _________________ 122 5.4.3 Profile 132 5.4.4 Profile 144 5.4.5 Profile 154 5.4.6 Wave 165 5.4.7 Wave Steepness 165 5.4.8 167 5.4.9 Beach 169 5.5 Discussion ....... 169 5.5.1 Dean (1973) Equation 169 5.5.2 Data Limitations_. ___ 172 5.5 .3 Erosional 173 5.5 .4 Critical Wave '"l'._"',,_,"'Ji"'"... ,· ...~c,",o; ______________ 176 5.5.5 Accretion at St. 176 5.5.6 Influence of Winds ______ .. __ ,___ ............ ~ .. ---·- ..... _,_____ .. 179 5.5.7 The St. Clair Seawall__________ _ 181 5.5.8 St. 184 5.5.9 The South Facing Spit 186 5.5.10 Morphodynamics ___ 186 5.6 '-V'-1'-'J.U 186 Vl Chapter Six: Conclusions 6.1 Conclusions______ _ ·-----------···-- ·····················---·-·---·---········ ················--·-························-············· 191 6.2 Further 196 Acknowledgements_ 199 References---·--­ 201 Appendix One N. Z. Met. Service Chalmers Swell Forecasts_______ -----··-----· 211 Appendix Two Tomahawk Wave Observations __ 221 Appendix Three Beach Profile 229 Vll FIGURES Chapter One: Introduction 1.1: The beach in profile. Zones and morphologic termininology__ 6 1.2: The storm and swell 8 1.3: The critical wave steepness dependence on the relative grain size of the beach sediments in relation to the wave height 9 1.4: Systematic changes in the beach profile slope along the length 13 Chapter Two: Introduction To The Study Area 2.1: General location of the study 20 2.2: Generalised geology of the Dunedin District 22 2.3: Bathymetry of the South Otago Continental Shelf_________ 24 2.4: Distribution of the main sediment facies on the south Otago continental 30 2.5: Features of the Otago 36 2.6: The Tomahawk coastal 41 2.7: The St. Clair- Ocean Beach coastal 43 Chapter Three: The Wind Environment 3.1: Otago Peninsula wind data collection---··----------- 51 3.2: Windrose for Taiaroa Lighthouse. 1957 - 1978 _______ 52 3.3: Wind velocity profiles over a bare sand surface_____ ····-····---------················· 55 3.4: Individual windroses for the summer months------- 58 3.5: Individual windroses for the autumn months ------- 60 3.6: Windroses for summer, autumn and for the total wind data collection J:'V•. .~.v, ... _____ -----'---------- 62 Vlll Chapter Four: The Wave Environment 4.1: Otago Peninsula wave data collection 73 4.2: Variation of swell direction observed at Cape Saunders as presented by Hodgson 74 4.3: Swell direction waverose as observed from Cape Saunders____ 74 4.4: Waverose for N.Z. Met. Service ship reports for grid square 44 75 4.5: The Chalmers Coastal Forecast 77 4.6: Waverose for N.Z. Met. Service Chalmers coastal forecast area, (11 December 1993-31 August 1994)___ __ 81 4.7: Waverose for N.Z. Met. Service Chalmers coastal forecast area for summer autumn and nrn·•ra.. 82 ---------~-------------------- 4.8: Waverose for N.Z. Met. Service Chalmers coastal forecast area for December 1993, January and February 1994_ 84 4.9: Waveroses for N.Z. Met. Service Chalmers coastal forecast area for March, April and May ......................................................................................................................................................................... 85 4.10: Waveroses for N .Z. Met. Service Chalmers coastal forecast area for June, July and August 86 4.11: N.Z. Met. Service Chalmers coastal forecast area seasonal mean swell heights. December 1993 - August 88 4.12: N.Z. Met. Service Chalmers coastal forecast area monthly mean ~ swell heights. December 1993 - August 1994 _ .. _ 88 4.13: N.Z. Met. Service Chalmers sea state distribution_ 89 4.14: Observation waveroses for summer, autumn and the total study period, (December 1993- May 1994) ___ _ 90 4.15: Observation waveroses for December 1993 and January and February 1994______________ ........ .. 92 4.16: Observation waveroses for March, April and May 1994 ____ _ 93 4.17: Observation mean seasonal wave heights ___ 95 4.18: Observation mean monthly wave heights 95 4.19: Observation inshore sea state distribution with respect to wind direction at the time of observation. 96 4.20: Observation breaker type distribution with respect to wind direction at the time of observation. ------------------ 97 lX Chapter Five: Beach Profile Changes 5.1: General profile locations ----····------- 113 5.2: Profile 1 Sand Envelope ................ ........................ .............................................................................................. 115 5.3: Profile 1 Excursion Distance Analysis _________ 116 5.4: Profile 1 Volume Changes____________________ _ 117 5.5: Profile 1 Variation. January 9 to January 1 118 5.6: Profile 1 Variation. January 16 to January 26 _______ 119 5. 7: Profile 1 Variation. January 26 to April 30 ____ 120 5.8: Profile 1 Variation. April30 to June 121 5.9: Profile 2 Sand Envelope 122 5.10: Profile 2 Excursion Distance Analysis __________ 123 5.11: Profile 2 Volume Changes ····························-----··--·-·-··········· ... ........................... ........ 123 5.12: Profile 2 Variations. January 26 to February 9 125 5.13: Profile 2 Variations. February 9 to 16_ 126 5.14: Profile 2 Variations. February 16 to March 20_ ... .. 127 5.15: Profile 2 Variations. March 20 to April30 128 5.16: Profile 2 Variations. April30 to June 20 129 5.17: Profile 3 Sand Envelope 132 5.18: Profile 3 Excursion Distance Analysis 133 5.19: Profile 3 Volume Changes__ 133 5.20: Profile 3 Variations. December 20 1993 to January 12 1994 135 5.21: Profile 3 Variations. January 12 to 17 136 5.22: Profile 3 Variations. January 17 to 27 _:_ 137 5.23: Profile 3 Variations. January 27 to February 9__ ............................................................................. 138 5.24: Profile 3 Variations. February 9 to 16 _________ 139 5.25: Profile 3 Variations. February 16 to March 20 _______ 140 5.26: Profile 3 Variations. March 20 to May----------------·--·-·············································---.. ·-···· ............................... 141 5.27: Profile 3 Variations. May 2 to June 20 _________ 142 5.28: Profile 4 Sand Envelope 145 5.29: Profile 4 Excursion Distance Analysis ........... .. 145 5.30: Profile 4 Volume Change _____________ 146 5.31: Profile 4 Variations. December 20 1994 to January 16 1993_ 149 5.32: Profile 4 Variations. January 16 to 27___ ....... - 150 5.33: Profile 4 Variations. January 27 to February 15 _____ 151 5.34: Profile 4 Variations. February 15 to March 20_____ _ 152 X 5.35: Profile 4 Variations. March 20 to April 153 5.36: Profile 4 Variations. April30 to June 154 5.37: Profile 5 Sand Envelope__ _ ----------···----·-----·----·--·-- ...................................... 155 ·5.38: Profile 5 Excursion Distance Analysis 156 5.39: Prot1le 5 Volume 156 5.40: Profile 5 Variations. December 20 1993 to January 19 1994....... 160 5.41: Profile 5 Variations. January 19 to February 1 161 5.42: Profile 5 Variations. February 11 to March 162 5.43: Profile 5 Variations. March 21 to April 163 5.44: Profile 5 Variations.
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