Newsletter of the Sky Island Alliance Vol. 5 Issue 4 Winter 2002-2003

WinterAgave palmeri2002-03, Peloncillo , NM Sky Island Alliance 1 Front Cover The Palmer agave is a Sky Island spe- cialist, growing in savanna between 3,000 and 6,000 feet elevation. The pink color peculiar to A. palmeri’s leaves de- velops as the plant base works to pro- duce a flowering stalk some 20 feet tall. Like other “century plants,” an indi- Sky Island vidual will grow for decades before put- ting all its years of accumulated energy Alliance into sending up one glorious flowering stalk. This candelabra-shaped stalk, Protecting Many Thanks to Our Contributors! which can grow several inches in one Our Islands Joe Cicero, SIA Volunteer of the Year 2002; Joan Eerkes, SIA tracking volun- day, bears a plant’s entire hopes for car- & Desert Seas teers; Lisa Naas, guest feature, The Nature Conservancy; Penny Pederson, SIA rying its genes into the next generation. tracking volunteer; Kathy Pitts, flora and fauna columnist; Bob VanDeven, long- Nectar from Palmer agave flowers helps 520/624-7080 • fax 520/791-7709 time SIA volunteer; Tiffany Voltz, SIA volunteer and Sonoran Desert biologist; Pe- fuel the epic migrations of Leptonycteris ter Warshall, “maniacal sky islands naturalist,” and, of course, the SIA staff. bats, as well as feeding hummingbirds, [email protected] moths, bees, and occasionally even www.skyislandalliance.org climbing coatamundis. Pollination by P.O. Box 41165 nectar bats may determine, in part, the Tucson, AZ 85717 plant’s patchy distribution. Office: Table of Contents Palmer agaves are called Historic YWCA “lechuguillas” by people of northeastern 738 N. 5th Avenue, Suite 201 (a name used for other agaves in Rambling Rants from the Director’s Desk...... page 3 various regions), where it is still used to produce food, fiber, and especially bev- KY ISLAND ALLIANCE is a non-profit Cowshit and Frogs...... page 3 S membership organization dedicated erages. The plant’s sap can be used to to restoring and protecting the unique WildNews: Tracking...... page 4 make a lightly-fermented, nutritious diversity of the Sky Islands of South- drink called pulque, or can be heavily fer- eastern , Southwestern New Roadless Areas...... page 5 mented and distilled into a smoky-fla- Mexico, and Northern Mexico. vored tequila-style liquor called Protected Area Profiles...... page 6 bacanora. Among agave species in the S TAFF region, A. palmeri has one of the lowest David Hodges David Hodges Geology and Soils...... page 7 concentrations of bitter compounds Executive Director [email protected] ...... page 8 called saponins, making it an excellent Acasia Berry food plant. The species has been a re- Administrative Assistant gional food staple for millenia. (photo by [email protected] G. Bodner) Trevor Hare Conservation Biologist We’d like to welcome SIA’s newest [email protected] board member, biologist Carlos Cory Jones Lopez GonzalezGonzalez. Many of you will GIS Specialist recognize Carlos from the superb jag- [email protected] uar lecture he gave in February 2002 Jennifer Katcher as part of the SIA lecture series. Webmaster Carlos co-authored the book, Border- [email protected] land Jaguars, with David E. Brown. Rachel Kondor Ecosystem Defense and Policy Director Carlos received his PhD in ecology [email protected] from the Universidad Nacional Arizona Sycamore...... page 9 Lisa Labita Autonoma de Mexico in Mexico City. Intern He has also written and co-authored [email protected] Many-Legged Chronicles...... page 9 many scientific articles and papers, Janice Przybyl Restaurants and Recipes...... page 10 which have appeared in Acta Zoologica Wildlife Monitoring Program Mexicana, The Southwestern Naturalist, [email protected] Poetry...... page 10 Journal of Wildlife Diseases among oth- Matt Skroch ers. He is now a professor and re- Field Program Director Road Rattlings...... page 11 searcher at the Universidad Autonoma [email protected] de Queretaro, Queretaro, Mexico. Jennifer W olfsong Whetstone Mountain Wilderness...... back cover Carlos also co-coordinates the North- Legal Intern [email protected] ern Jaguar Project, which you can learn more about at www.sonoran Newsletter photo by Bob VanDeven jaguar.org. Gita Bodner and Dug Schoellkopf, editors Board of Directors Seeking SIA newsletter submissions: Rod Mondt, President Mike Seidman, Vice President Send us your poetry, your words of wisdom, your art! Nancy Zierenberg, Sec./Treasurer As you’ve likely noticed, the quarterly Sky Island Alliance newsletter has expanded into a larger newspaper format. We Gita Bodner want to keep it filled with inspirational, informative material, and we’d like your help! Do you write poetry? Draw, sketch, Curtis Bradley paint, or photograph? Like to address regional conservation issues? Review books or websites? Anything that relates to the Randall Gray Roseann Hanson Sky Islands region is fair game! We’d also like to start a Letters to the Editor section. Send us a note! You can respond to Lainie Levick items in our recent newsletter, comment on your experiences as a volunteer or conference-goer, etc. Also, let us know if you’d Rurik List like to be a regular contributor, e.g. with a column each issue. The deadline for our next newsletter is February 8, 2003. Carlos Lopez Gonzalez Material submitted after that date may be saved for subsequent issues. Please email submissions to Gita at Steve Marlatt [email protected], or mail them to Sky Island Alliance attn: Gita, P.O. Box 41165, Tucson, AZ 85717. Resolution Todd Schulke of digital images should be at least 300 dpi if possible, but we can work with some lower resolution images. Dale Turner 2 Sky Island Alliance Winter 2002-03 Rambling Rants from the Director’s Desk for unprecedented public Friends, and watering hole reviews; articles on ecol- participation. What this I hope this finds you well and in good ogy, history, culture; nature writing, fic- really means is that the pub- spirits. As we approach the end of another tion, book and movie reviews, opinion; or lic will be allowed an oppor- year it seems an appropriate time to re- just about anything that pertains to the Sky tunity for input in the early flect on our accomplishments while look- Islands; and, don’t forget to send letters to stages, while the Forest Service ing to the challenges the future brings – the editors! is under no obligation to use that and they are many. One of the most ex- The greatest challenge facing us in the input! When the final plan is citing occurrences this year was the Sky near future comes from Washington, DC. then produced there will be Island Wildlands Network (SIWN) Con- In the recent elections the Republican neither a public comment ference in October. This event drew more Party took control of the Senate by one period nor opportunity for than 300 people for two days of fun and vote, due to four races decided by just a the public to appeal the learning. A major objective was to host a few thousand votes. Unfortunately, the plan – even if it’s terrible. conference for people working and living Bush administration has taken these results In addition to these laws, in the Sky Islands Region, by people as a mandate to overturn or gut virtually the administration has changed or pro- working and living here. Many people every environmental law that protects our trained 30 new Wildlife Monitoring vol- posed significant changes to laws and rules were surprised at the quality and breadth fragile landscape. Suddenly, resource in- unteers this year and we now have 52 folks that govern clean air, clean water, mining of work going on in the Sky Islands (we dustry lobbyists are writing regulations monitoring transects in southeast Arizona. site reclamation and cleanup, off-shore de- could easily have done a four day confer- and helping create policy at the expense We will train and place another 30 in 2003, velopment, roadless areas, and the way in ence) and presenters were pleased at both of public participation. The National En- including our first volunteers in New which imperiled species are managed. The the opportunity to share their work and vironmental Policy Act (NEPA), long re- Mexico. Our Ecosystem Defense program most appalling aspect of this power grab to also learn about all the cool stuff hap- garded as the Magna Carta of environmen- will continue to monitor and influence is that these new regulations were devel- pening on their home turf. tal law, is squarely in the crosshairs. This agency decisions to insure that they are oped in secrecy with industry input but During the conference, we recognized law requires review of the environmental compatible with healthy landscapes, re- none from the public. Maybe some folks several people with Conservation Awards impacts of federal actions and, most im- gardless of the roadblocks the Bush admin- like the polluted, expensive Texas Model, for their ground breaking work in the Sky portant, is the law that guarantees the pub- istration is attempting to put in our way. but we don’t. Islands: ; Raul lic the right to comment on proposed fed- Without a doubt, it will be exciting. Though it will be an interesting two Grijalva, former Pima County Supervisor eral actions. This administration has cre- Most of you recently received, or will years until the next election, not all is doom and our new US Congressional Represen- ated rules that would eliminate a federal shortly, a request to help SIA financially. and gloom, and at SIA we fully expect to tative from Southern Arizona; Josiah and agency’s responsibility to solicit public Many of our programs are dependent on accomplish all our goals during this time. Valer Austin, owners of the El Coronado comment or conduct public hearings. the generosity of our membership to be The reasons we’ll prevail are many: the Ranch; and Mike Seidman, Conservation Sadly, these assaults themselves have not fully funded. Both the Wildlife Monitor- amazing networks of people such as your- Director of the Phoenix Zoo. been put before the public for scrutiny or ing and Road Closure programs are thus selves that we work with; our volunteers; Also in 2002, we made the decision to input. There has been a well-coordinated dependent. We will not only be grateful the respect we’ve earned and relationships upgrade our newsletter, Restoring Connec- effort to draw as little attention to these for any contribution, but this also serves we’ve developed with land use agencies; tions. We’ve added many new sections and changes as possible. In the most recent ex- as your own personal investment in the the collaborative efforts that have been would like this publication to be, not only ample the administration chose the day be- conservation of this amazing area we call forged with conservation-minded land- a vehicle for us to provide information to fore Thanksgiving for yet another attack home. We happily accept cash, checks, and owners; and the mutual respect that de- you, but also a forum for our members to on public involvement in releasing their Visa (www.skyislandalliance.org), as well velops through working in honest relation- express their feelings for and about the Sky proposed changes to National Forest plan- as in-kind donations. We’ll even come to ships with all people. Islands. Think of it as an opportunity to ning regulations. In an almost complete re- your house and pick up the money – just We will continue to close roads as we strengthen the “connection” between you write of existing regulations, they removed give us a call. Thanks for all your help and have in the past and expand this program and us, and as a collective celebration of requirements that all final plans be com- I hope your 2003 is productive and fun. to other areas (note first road closure in this wondrous place we call home. Please patible with NEPA, while duplicitously God Bless America – let’s save some of it! the Gila NF profiled in this issue). We submit art, poetry, photos; small town food claiming that their new plan would allow —David Hodges

Cowshit and Frogs: or How I Learned to Love Stock Ponds by Trevor Hare, SIA Field Coordinator he dirty cow-stank water was filling my chest waders, my feet out from the pools. We were very happy! were stuck under two feet of nasty cow-tank mud, and fingerling The Sky Island Alliance was in the The turtle dance ensued! bluegill and green sunfish were jumping into the fray and wig- Pajarito Mountains with 12 volunteers From the 1920s to the present day, the T who had committed to at least 30 surveys Arizona Game and Fish Department, pri- gling inside my waders. in the area over the next three years to vate landowners, grazing allotment Phil was about to pull me over when I is a marvelous mosaic of Madrean look for and document the existence, and permitees, anglers, and others have stocked popped out of the mud, thoughts of mer- Woodland, Desert Grassland, and Broa- persistence of riparian species and com- natural and manmade waters with non-na- cury poisoning along with predaceous dleaf Riparian Forest. These communities munities. We went with Dr. Phil Rosen, tive sport . A laundry list of game water , Dobson fly and dragonfly harbor an impressive array of species — an Arizona herpetologist who loves frogs species, including bluegill and sunfish, larvae, salmonella, E. coli bacteria, cow shit, many at the northern and western edges and fish and snakes and lizards and all bullfrogs and crayfish were all purposefully and the dead and decomposing bodies of of their distributions. Bromeliads, jaguars, things wet and wild. What we found in introduced. These non-natives have dis- hundreds of fish kept me upright as we cuckoos, Mexican vine snakes, blue , that stock pond is indicative of the injury placed and eaten our native riparian fauna hauled the seine to the tank edge. Sonoran chub, cactus ferruginous pygmy- piled with insult that our riparian areas to near in some cases. What can Fieldwork is not always easy in aquatic owl, Tarahumara frogs, gray hawks, have suffered over the years. We found be done about all this? The Sky Island and riparian systems of the Sky Islands and Chiricahua leopard frogs, black hawks, blue gills and sunfish, we found bullfrogs, Alliance is piloting a riparian inventory/ Desert Seas of Arizona, Mexico, and New box turtles, narrow-mouthed toads, we found crayfish, all non-native killers! monitoring/restoration program, as out- Mexico. I will admit, though, that we spent trogons, and lowland leopard frogs have We were all about to cry at the sight when lined in the previous issue of Restoring Con- the previous day happily hiking Sycamore all been documented in the area. Some are lo and behold out popped a mud turtle, nections. Please get involved! Contact the Canyon in the Pajarito Mountains, 30 miles gone, some are still to be found, hidden then another, then two more, and then a author at [email protected] or west of Nogales, Sonora/Arizona. The area in shadows up under the oaks or peering final one. We had turtles! Native turtles! at 520/624-7080. Winter 2002-03 Sky Island Alliance 3 Tracking the Trackers by Janice Przybyl, SIA Wildlife Monitoring Program Coordinator javelina and deer. Teams also saw coyote drainages that mark the western edge of our n the road with Jack… hanging out in culverts… recruiting and gray fox tracks and scat… even pos- Phase I study area. Thanks to Bruce Eilerts, new volunteers… training new volunteers… meeting enthusi- sible bear scat, though this last one was Siobhan E. Nordhaugen, Chuck Barclay, astic supporters… tracking bears and mountain lions… phew! under debate. The scat was full of grass- and Paul Langdale for all their hard work O and support. I can’t wait to develop the first It’s been a fun-filled and rewarding autumn. hopper parts (you all have noticed the sea- sonal abundance lately?) indicating that the roll of film and see what critters are utiliz- On September 23, the Arizona/New Monitoring volunteers and other folks who deposit was probably make by a very large ing culverts as passageways under the high- Mexico Jaguar Conservation Team com- assisted me with publicity. Many people coyote. way. menced its rural outreach campaign with posted flyers or sent press releases to news- The tracking event at Audubon Research * * * * * the debut presentation of Jack Childs’ papers and newsletters. Your time and ef- Ranch is open to all interested folks. No Monitoring volunteers documented a video, On the Trail of the Jaguar, in Bisbee. fort paid off. The outreach committee tracking experience is required because an number of focal species on transects in all deemed the tour a success. We were well Sky Island Alliance participates on the three of our project areas… the Missing received by full houses in each Team. As a member of the outreach com- Link, the Dragoon, and the Santa Cruz town from Bisbee, to Douglas, mittee, I had the job of finding locales and projects. Since August, Missing Link vol- Nogales, and Patagonia – where booking sites for the seven-town tour. Each unteers found sets of bear tracks on three over 60 people packed the Town presentation consisted of a slide presenta- transects; mountain lion sign twice on the Hall – to Sierra Vista, Arivaca, tion by an official from Arizona or New same transect, and bobcat on all four and Animas, . Many Mexico Game and Fish who explained the transects. Just days ago, in the Dragoons, times, I had to chase people out “what is and why fors” of the Conservation teams found mountain lion tracks in of meeting halls well after our al- Team. Jack Childs then took center stage Stronghold drainage and in Smith Wash. lotted two hours. There is defi- to describe his participation on the Team These were the first documentations of nitely interest in and support for and the creation of the video. The video de- mountain lion in the Dragoons and a jaguar conservation throughout scribes Jack’s first encounter with a jaguar thrill for the volunteers who have been southeastern Arizona and in the in the Baboquivari Mountains back in 1996 out surveying once every six weeks since bootheel of New Mexico. and how that prompted a trip to Brazil to April. The drought is frustrating for our * * * * * * study jaguar predation and then goes on to volunteers. Lack of rain makes for lousy On October 6, eleven volun- explain his current involvement with set- tracking conditions because the ground teers along with Sky Island Alli- Monitoring volunteers Cathy Waterman and Neva Connolly document ting up remote cameras along the U.S. side a bobcat track on a transect in the Missing Link. Yes! It was cold becomes dry and hard packed. Almost ance staff trekked down to the of the border in the hopes of capturing a enough that morning that they needed warm hats and mitts. like tracking across a parking lot. So, Audubon Research Ranch jaguar on film. Success was declared in even if the animals are out there they January of this year when an adult male (ARR) near Elgin, Arizona for experienced tracker leads and teaches each leave no trace. No trace, no tracks, no jaguar triggered a camera the previous our quarterly track count. We all were team. This is a great opportunity to learn data. Many, many thanks to all 36 moni- month. This was the third photo-documen- amazed at how—with help from a little how we conduct track searches. Join us on toring volunteers who have been dili- tation of a live jaguar in the United States – rain—the fire-scorched landscape re- January 11 for the next scheduled trip. gently surveying their transects and look- including Warner Glenn’s remarkable pho- bounded. Only a few charred stumps, or Please call or email me for more informa- ing for those invisible tracks. The hard tographs of a jaguar in the Peloncillo Moun- fences, or storage barns attested to the fact tion and to RSVP. work eventually pays off. tain just one month prior to Jack’s sighting that fire swept across most of the Ranch last * * * * * Fifteen new recruits to the Monitoring in 1996. spring. Ranch manager, Linda Kennedy We are continuing to work with the Ari- Program will complete their training in After the video, a panel consisting of rep- gave the group some insight into the pro- zona Department of Transportation December and will soon join the rest of the resentatives from various government agen- cess of grassland recovery and ARR’s ef- (ADOT) to place remote cameras in cul- teams. 36 + 15 Wow! That makes 51 Wild- cies, the ranching community, and environ- forts to abate the influx of non-native verts under Highway 80 between St. David life Monitoring Volunteers. That number mental groups, answered questions from the grasses – how even well-intended research- and Tombstone. At the October 19, Restor- represents 51 enthusiastic and skilled track- audience. I personally recorded each ques- ers, such as ourselves, transport non-native ing Connections 2002 Conference, folks ers who take to heart the mission and goal tion from the audience, so I can attest to seeds onto the Ranch via our vehicles, our from ADOT-Natural Resources Depart- of Sky Island Alliance – to protect and re- the thoughtful and interesting questions shoes, our clothes. Thanks Linda for the ment unveiled their prototype for housing store the natural of the sky is- posed – from conservation concerns to in- early morning chat. Afterwards the group and protecting the cameras. This project land region. I am honored to know each one quiries about jaguar physiology and behav- split up to search for tracks and other wild- supplements our Dragoon/Whetstone cor- of them personally and delighted to work ior. life sign on our four transects. We found ridor study. All camera placements are in with them in the field. I would like to thank all the Wildlife tracks from plenty of prey species such as 2002 Conference Field Trip Report

On the day before the Restoring Con- ence attendees to the Dragoon Moun- Monitoring Program and pointed out the about the report Sky Island Alliance is nections 2002 conference Sky Island tains. Twenty-four hikers accompanied transects being surveyed by volunteers in generating about impacts to the Dra- Alliance hosted a field trip for confer- Gita Bodner, Matt Skroch, and Janice Stronghold Wash, Slavin Wash, and goon area from increased recreational Przybyl on a tour of Sky Island Alliance Smith Wash. She wowed the crowd with usage. She also discussed some of the project sites. Janice, who coordinated the her rubber feet – that’s rubber molds of possible management recommenda- event, worried that the early morning rain wildlife tracks such as mountain lion and tions Sky Island will be making to the may have convinced some folks to stay in wolf. Matt then led the group on a hike Forest Service that address these is- bed – but no need to worry – a small up Slavin Gulch to inspect the road clo- sues. We were proud to show-off our crowd gathered in front of the Sky Island sure and ecological restoration project in work and inform people about the im- Alliance ready to go. The caravan of ve- place since 1999. It turned out to be a portance of this very special area. The hicles encountered a downpour just west beautiful day for a hike and everyone re- group consisted of locals from Tucson of Benson, but we remained undaunted, marked on how well the restoration is pro- and the nearby area (St. David and because there were blue skies over the ceeding on the trail and through the ri- Dragoon), conference attendees from Dragoons. Folks who live nearby or drove parian area. After we all got a bit of exer- New Mexico and Texas, and agency up from Bisbee met us at Slavin Wash. cise, sunshine, and inspiration, we headed folks from the Forest Service, BLM, Before heading out on our hike, Janice back to our vehicles for lunch. Over sand- and ADOT-Natural Resources. gave a quick overview of the Wildlife wiches and soda, Gita talked to the group 4 Sky Island Alliance Winter 2002-03 On the Importance of Roadless Taking it to the Streets Areas in the Sky Island region. In October, Sky Island Alliance, Upper Gila Wa- by Matt Skroch, SIA Field Programs Director tershed Alliance, New Mexico Wilder- ness Alliance, and Republicans for En- he public lands logging boom of the 1980’s resulted in billions of vironmental Protection held the first- board-feet of lumber being removed from our forests, an expo- ever volunteer road closure event on T nential increase in road-building projects, and a public backlash the Gila National Forest. Twenty-five that has left the Forest Service stunned in regards to how to best manage volunteers from Tucson, Silver City, forest lands. As a result, the National Biological Survey declared one of Albuquerque, and elsewhere traveled to the Big Burro Mountains west of most prevalent forest types, ponderosa woodlands, one of most en- Silver City and put three roadbeds to dangered ecosystems in the Southwest. Only five percent of old-growth rest. Using welders, shovels, picks, ponderosa pine forests remain here – a startling statistic. While timber pipe, and lots of determination, volun- was shipped out of forestlands, roads were built into them. The Sky Is- teers put their back into it. In two land region also experienced a proliferation of roads from grazing, min- days, we successfully closed two and a half miles of roads that intruded into ing, and recreational off-road driving. a previously designated roadless area Today, National Forest lands claim over in 1925 “[M]ark this well, the laws of eco- near Wildhorse Canyon. Events such 450,000 miles of roads – more than any nomics are the last thing the roads booster Volunteers weld a road barrier passable by foot and as this show that local citizens can other agency. The National Highway Sys- is thinking about.” horse travel. From left, Jim Scarantino, Oscar make a difference, and while we con- tem, for instance, manages just 160,000 The result? A heavily roaded landscape Simpson, and Patty Stern tinue to advocate for strong national miles of roads across the country. With that diminishes ecological sustainability While the national debate of protect- policy, real differences are often made long-inadequate funding paired with lax and scenic qualities, and constrains recre- ing roadless areas draws on, Sky Island at home. A hearty thanks goes out to accountability for the management of ational opportunities on our public lands. Alliance and cooperating organizations all the volunteers that made the Gila these roads, the Forest Service and tax- We won’t dwell on the negatives, but his- continue to make positive steps toward closures possible. payers now stare at an eight-and-a-half torical context helps us understand where protecting and expanding roadless areas - Matt Skroch billion dollar backlog of maintenance we are today. needs, reconstruction projects, and road Within the National Forest System, safety requirements. It has been decades there are still over 100 million acres of wil- In the last issue of Restoring Connections, While we can find many benefits for the since road maintenance budget sheets were derness and roadless lands – a consider- you may recall an article on habitat frag- preservation of roadless areas for wildlife out of the red – nor is it likely that these able portion of the 192 million acres man- mentation. Roadless areas are, by defini- and plant species, it is important to stress roads will ever be maintained at levels aged by the Forest Service. My intention tion, unfragmented lands free of roads. the value of this dwindling resource for hu- specified by forest plans. As a forward- here is to underline the importance of this Typically, these areas are defined as par- mans. As noted above, roadless and wil- thinker of his time, Aldo Leopold told us vanishing resource. cels larger than 1,000 acres. They repre- derness lands make up a small fraction of sent less than five per cent of the conti- the U.S. landbase. Visitor days in these nental U.S. landbase. Roadless areas areas, however, have significantly in- Protection of Roadless Areas within National Forests represent about creased in recent decades. When the two per cent of the same landbase. American public was polled in 2000, 76 per In recent decades, the academic realms cent of those polled expressed the desire – UPDATE of ecology, wildlife biology, and conserva- to permanently protect remaining roadless tion biology have recognized remaining areas. Wildland and wilderness experi- In January of 1998, Forest Service Chief Michael Dombeck proposed a mora- roadless areas as one of the most impor- ences are in high demand – many existing torium on road building within most of the remaining roadless areas on National tant landscape features in conservation wilderness areas are already attracting Forest lands. Until that time, it had been since 1978 when the Forest Service planning. In an increasingly urbanized and over-capacity visitor use. With the recent dealt with the management of roadless areas from a national perspective. Realiz- motorized environment, Americans are explosion in off-road vehicle use, people ing the economic, ecological, and social benefits of preserving remaining wild- also demanding more wilderness experi- seeking solitude and non-motorized recre- lands, President Clinton then, in October 1999, directed the Forest Service to ences for recreational activities. ation are being pushed out of many public undergo a rulemaking process that would protect these lands. The American The ecological benefits of conserving re- lands. This puts increasing pressure on public responded with overwhelming support – sending in two million comments maining roadless areas, and working to cre- nearby roadless areas, and highlights the urging the administration to protect roadless areas (95 percent of the comments ate more, are comprehensive. These include: need to protect those we have left. were in favor of strong roadless area protection). This momentum resulted in a • Providing core habitat for over 220 spe- In addition, wildlands free of roads also final national rule, released on January 5, 2001, that would protect 58.5 million cies of federally listed endangered and provide clean drinking water for urban acres from road building, commercial logging, and other extractive activities. It threatened species (25 per cent of all populations, intact scenic landscapes, and was a monumental achievement for conservationists and wildlands around the listed wildlife species), including more opportunities for wildland-based tourism country. For once, there was a direct order that would prevent our last stands of than 1,900 Forest Service-designated (bird watching in Southern Arizona ac- old growth, our last free running rivers, and our defacto wildlife refuges from sensitive species. counts for one of the region’s largest source being developed and degraded. Exceptions were made that allowed motorized • Landscape bulwarks against exotic spe- of tourism revenue). It pays to protect. access for public safety, timber thinning, and various grandfathered activities. It cies invasions. Roads and associated On the Coronado and Apache National took one of America’s largest timber companies, Boise Cascade, only three days disturbances act as “biological high- Forests, Sky Island Alliance is now draft- to file a lawsuit against the government to halt the rule. The States of Idaho, ways” for invasive species. ing a proposal that will protect more than Alaska, North Dakota, , Colorado, and Wyoming all followed suit, ei- • Protection of watersheds for aquatic 700,000 acres from roads, logging, ORVs, ther bringing lawsuits of their own, or supporting lawsuits of neighboring states. species. Sedimentation from roads de- and other extractive industries. With the Unfortunately, by then the Bush Administration was taking control of office, and creases habitat effectiveness for many help of thousands of our members and vol- refused to defend the Roadless Rule at the first hearings in Idaho. With no de- riparian obligate and facultative species. unteers, we work for the day when unbro- fense, the Idaho Judge eventually issues a preliminary injunction of rule and agrees • Decreasing habitat fragmentation. Spe- ken, wild landscapes may forever be inher- with plaintiffs that the rule was adopted illegally. Today, the fate of the original cies from wolves and grizzly bears to ited to future generations, when vibrant Roadless Rule stands in various courts around the country. In August 2002, the owls and lizards respond negatively to communities can coexist in vibrant, healthy U.S. Justice Department unexpectantly issued an 80-page brief to a North Da- lightly or heavily roaded landscapes. wildlands, and when our treasured natural kota court vigorously defending the Roadless Rule. Conservationists were posi- Road aversion, road attraction and heritage is ensured to accompany us into tively surprised at the administration’s decision to now, after bluffing of the rule, roadkill, direct habitat loss, human-in- the future. Please look forward to an up- turn around and defend it. Coming months will bring more news on this impor- duced stress, and air/water/noise pollu- coming wilderness proposal this winter, and tant conservation issue – we’ll keep you posted! – Matt Skroch tion are examples of impacts in roaded help us make this a reality. landscapes. Winter 2002-03 Sky Island Alliance 5 Wild News The Nature Conservancy’s Patagonia-Sonoita Creek Preserve by Lisa Naas, The Nature Conservancy

n a verdant floodplain valley between the Patagonia and Santa known for the 300 bird species observed Closed Mondays and Tuesdays. General Rita mountains of southeastern Arizona, within the watershed of here. Several unusual, rare, or unique spe- Admission is three dollars per person for Sonoita Creek, lies some of the richest of the remaining riparian cies such as the gray hawk, green king- members of The Conservancy, five dollars I fisher, thick-billed kingbird, northern (streamside) habitat in the region. One of few permanent streams, it pro- per person for nonmembers, and kids un- beardless-tyrannulet, violet-crowned hum- vides for a wide array of diverse species of butterflies, birds, and endan- der 16 are free. Passes are good for seven mingbird, and rose-throated becard, at- days. A visitor center with displays and lo- gered fishes. tract birdwatchers from around the world. cal information is staffed by volunteers Joseph Wood Krutch, the distinguished tonwood-willow riparian forest. These are Other animals inhabiting the preserve in- during visitor hours. Group visits require American naturalist, once said that “No the largest (over 100 feet tall) and oldest clude mountain lion, bobcat, white-tail prior arrangements. Directions: The other area in Arizona is more deserving of (130 years old) Fremont cottonwood trees deer, javelina, coatimundi (chulo), coyote, Patagonia-Sonoita Creek Preserve is lo- preservation” than Sonoita Creek. This site anywhere, and this is one of the few re- desert tortoise, occasional rattlesnakes and cated about 60 miles southeast of Tucson, contains the first two miles of permanent maining sites where this several toads and frogs. The near the town of Patagonia. To visit the flow of Sonoita Creek and the floodplains once-common forest type Patagonia-Sonoita Creek is preserve, take Highway 82 to Patagonia. adjacent to the stream. The site contains still persists. Arizona black a perennial stream fed by In town, turn west on 4th Avenue. Turn very high biodiversity values that are pri- walnut, velvet mesquite, surface and underground south on Pennsylvania, cross the creek, marily focused on the riparian habitats velvet ash, canyon hack- springs. It is one of the very and go about one mile to the entrance. For along Sonoita Creek. As the first project berry, and various willows few remaining such streams more information about the preserve or its for The Nature Conservancy in Arizona, are found in slightly differ- that supports four native management, please contact Lisa Naas at it captured much of the biological diver- ent habitats throughout the fish species, one of which, (520) 378-4952 or [email protected]. sity associated with these habitat types. preserve. Here are remnant the Gila topminnow, is The watershed is mostly undeveloped and among the most endangered wetlands or ciénagas, a SIA-TNC joint workday Patagonia- the natural processes of flooding are mostly once-common feature of in the Southwest. intact and well functioning. Sonoita Creek floodplain Preserve happenings: Sonoita Creek Preserve With the support of the Tucson Guided Nature Walks: If and the most endangered Join us for a joint workday with vol- Audubon Society, The Nature Conser- you’d like to learn more natural community in Ari- unteers from The Nature Conservancy. vancy purchased the Patagonia-Sonoita about the preserve while en- zona. A significant number We’ll do streamside cleanup, trail main- Creek Preserve in 1966. Through conser- joying an easy one to two of rare and sensitive plant tenance, and other restoration work on vation easements and other voluntary land- hour hike, join us for a guided nature walk species are found in the Sonoita Creek wa- a fine spring creekside Saturday. Mark owner agreements as well as through do- every Saturday at 9 AM. Meet at the Visi- tershed, including Huachuca water umbel, your calendars for May 10, and contact nations of land, more than 1,350 acres are tor Center (no reservations needed). Visi- Santa Cruz stripped agave, and the Santa Trevor for details at 520/624-7080 now protected along Sonoita Creek. tor Hours: Wednesday-Sunday, October Cruz beehive cactus. ext. 205 or trevor@skyislandalliance. What to See: Plants: This preserve What to See: Animals: The 1 to March 31 - 7:30AM to 4:00PM; April protects a magnificent example of the cot- Patagonia-Sonoita Creek Preserve is best 1 to September 30 - 6:30AM to 4:00PM. Peloncillos: A Place of Stark Beauty and Solitude by Rachel Kondor, SIA Ecosystem Defense and Policy Director s we rounded the bend in the road, I saw a tawny-colored flash used by smugglers and Apaches alike and unique wildlife corridor. The Sky Island Al- out of the corner of my eye. My companion exclaimed, “Moun- was the site of Geronimo’s final surrender in liance and other conservation organizations tain lion!” The was magnificent, running full speed across 1886. The Mormon Battalion traveled are focusing their efforts on the preservation A through these mountains, and according to of the region. We have done road surveys, the valley in front of us. Within just seconds, the lion had run the full historical accounts, ran into some trouble and we have also restored habitat by closing stretch of the valley and had disappeared over the ridge to our left. We with a herd of feral cattle along the way. some roads. We hope that through our ef- ran to the top of ridge hoping to catch one more glimpse, but our human Private landowners, Congress, and federal forts, and those of other entities, the legs were too slow, and the animal was gone. Never had I seen an animal agencies have long recognized the Peloncillos Peloncillos will continue to serve as a haven move so fast, with such power. The encounter left us all breathless. are deserving of special protection. Private for wildlife species, and as a crucial biologi- landowners are engaging in efforts to con- cal link between the Sierra Madre and the We were in the Peloncillos conducting also boast an area containing the highest di- serve their land, and federal agencies have Rocky Mountains. It is also a wonderful road surveys when we caught sight of the versity of lizard species in the U.S. That area designated areas of critical environmental place to find solitude from our hectic mod- lion. Although we had hoped to see some has been recognized by the Bureau of Land concern, a research natural area, and a zoo- ern lives, and observe some remarkable ani- birds and other small mammals that week- Management as an area of critical environ- logical-botanical area, which are managed to mals and birds. Please join us on one of our end, none of us expected to see a large cat. mental concern and is managed to protect protect their unique values. Also, Congress field weekends, or visit the area on your own, But, the Peloncillo mountain range can sur- the species present there. has designated a wilderness area, anchoring sometime soon. prise you sometimes. The range also provides habitat for big- the northern part of the range, and sev- Straddling the Arizona-New Mexico- horn sheep, mountain lions, coatimundis, and eral wilderness study areas. Mexico border region, the Peloncillos are black bear, among others. Just a few years Despite various efforts to preserve relatively dry and low-lying in the U.S., com- ago, a jaguar was sighted in the range. His- them, the Peloncillos are still in need pared to other sky islands in our region. In torically, the Peloncillos provided habitat for of help. I-10 creates a barrier to wild- Mexico, the range broadens and rises, be- wolves and someday we may see the return life movement between the northern coming wetter and larger. The Peloncillos are of the wolf to the area as the range connects and southern portions of the mountains the only range in the sky islands that form a with current reintroduction sites in rim coun- and other roads fragment habitat continuous connection from the Sierra try to the north. throughout the range. Poor livestock Madre in Mexico to the Mogollon Rim of The Peloncillos have been traversed since practices in some areas, fire suppres- central Arizona, providing a meshing of di- time immemorial, not just by wildlife, but also sion, degradation of riparian areas, and verse habitats from subtropical to temperate by human travelers of all kinds. Ancient rock clearing of land for recreation, resource and an important regional wildlife corridor. art in the area provides archaeological evi- extraction and development have left The diversity of wildlife present in the dence of human activity many centuries ago. the Peloncillos in less than ideal con- Peloncillos is almost overwhelming. More The Spanish Conquistadors also blazed trails dition. than 325 different bird species have been through the range. Skeleton Canyon, a small The Peloncillo Mountains deserve Woodwork by Joan Eerkes documented in the range. The Peloncillos canyon on the west side of the range, was recognition and protection as a globally 6 Sky Island Alliance Winter 2002-03 Sky Island Richness: Geology and Soils

By Peter Warshall overs of the Madrean Archipelago know that these mountains hold tremendous mysteries, and that we have precious little field data L to explain them. We keep looking for what has made our sky island cluster so unique on the planet. Many of us have thought about the number of islands, their size, their position in North America (especially in the North American Cordillera and Gila River Basin), their three weather systems, their unique overlap of floral and faunal provinces, their complex paleohistory, their topography, and their latitude. Here’s more food for thought: what do geology, geomorphology, and soils add to our picture? The sky islands dot the landscape be- rock and their soils, they may evolve new tween two of the largest massifs of differ- forms to “jump” rock types. Or, older ent rocks in North America. The “conti- rocks may have very different soils as they nent” of the north (the / have been weathered for hundreds or tens Mogollon Rim) is a stable sedimentary of thousands more years. Some species sketch by Penny Pederson platform with a few explosive volcanic may have adapted to these paleo-soils rocks. The “continent” of the south (the better than others. Or, some soils may island mountains. For instance, look for water. In valleys like the upper San ) is a more re- have blown in from somewhere else and yuccas along the San Simon, Animas, or Simon, the water has sunk below the cent layering of volcanic ash-flow, some accumulated in layers of wind-blown cali- Willcox Playa valleys. Wherever you see depth of the grass roots, and only mes- of the rocks more welded together than che or sand; they too have their own spe- thick yucca groves, there’s usually sand. quites grow roots long enough to suck it others. The volcanics of the sky island/ cialists. Or, some soils may hold water In turn, more yuccas mean more Xylocopa up. Grasslands became scrub. Grassland Sierra Madre complex maybe the biggest better and, for instance, create “wetland bees, a bee that lays its eggs inside the diversity has been better maintained in the single volcanic ash-flow-based mass on islands” which harbor special plants and dried yucca stems, in sealed chambers Animas and San Rafael valleys, increas- the planet. In addition, the sky island clus- animals. The more soil varieties and rock with one pollen ball of food for each egg. ing the abundance of pronghorn antelope ter includes “metamorphic core com- outcrops, talus slopes and topographic Usually the chambers are excavated in the and wintering birds. plexes” which are a series of mountains forms, the more species numbers. stem, deep within the rosette of leaves, safe It’s also fun to think about how filled each along the seam between “old” North Another important but little studied as- from the probing tongues of Gila wood- valley between the sky islands has become. America (from Canada through Sonora) pect of rocks/soils/diversity is erosion peckers who actually listen for the churn- If a valley has filled almost to the brim with and the terranes formed by its crash with from the mountain slopes to the valleys. ing of the larval bee. But, if too deep within sediment from the sky island mountains, the Pacific Plate. The metamorphic core The textures, layers, and depth of the val- the rosette, water can pond and cause fun- we see small “mountains” peaking out from complexes such as the Pinalenos are built ley soils are part of a long story of moun- gal rot which can kill the larva. In addi- the valley floor. If the valley has lost much from predominantly granite and granite- tain contributions and valley accumula- tion, if a female bee takes too long between of its fill down a river or the surrounding like rocks. In short, the sky islands sport tions. For sky islands, it’s crucial to note furnishing pollen balls, another parasitic mountains erode slowly, then getting to the three general types (or mixes) of moun- if the valley soils have a calcic (caliche, bee may sneak into the hole and lay its own mountain passes is a more difficult climb. tains - volcanic, granite, and limestone. carbonate) or argillic (clay) layer. egg containing a larva which will grow The passes through the Peloncillos are Some plants and animals prefer one Here are a few examples: faster and kill the Xylocopa’s. So sand sus- “easy” around Granite Gap and Antelope kind of rock or its derived soils more than * Yucca prefers sandy soils. When tains this five-species food chain (actually Pass, in part, because the Animas is pretty others. When the volcanic lovers, for in- paleo-lakes receded, some of the sand ac- many more). full up with sediment. These low passes stance, meet the sedimentary or granitic cumulated into dunes alongside the sky * The barking frog prefers cracks and have been easier “bridges” for plants, liz- fissures in limestone or dwells in certain ards, toads and snakes from the “plains” locales with calcium-rich soils like gypsum grasslands to move west and for a few of soils. It does not occur in granitic moun- the desert reptiles to move east. When Inventory and Monitoring tains nor the sandier soils derived from planning corridors for conservation, these granite. Similarly, the little known Wet easy passes require special attention, es- Volunteers Needed Canyon talus snail of the Pinalenos (which pecially because humans also prefer them exists in about a one mile-long talus slope) for major highways. may have particular needs for carbonate In short, I have a confession. I have he Sky Island Alliance is continuing its program to inventory, monitor, and water and a unique mix of soil and rock. always looked at sky islands from the oak Trestore populations of important species of animals in the Sky Islands of South- * The Huachucas have a greater diver- woodland up, and kind of preferred to eastern Arizona, Northwestern New Mexico, Northeastern Sonora, and North- sity of plants than the Pinalenos, even “see” the mountain and not the valleys. western . We are piloting this program with riparian inventories for though the Pinalenos are taller with a But geology and soils connect the two. native Ranid frogs and native fish. greater elevational difference between To understand what we want to protect Amphibians have experienced population declines worldwide due to habitat valley and peaks, and a more developed and where the diversity lives, we do well loss, pollution, and disease. The native Ranid frogs of the Sky Islands include the spruce/fir forest. The Pinalenos are pre- to look at what scientists call the “sub- lowland leopard frog, the Chiricahua leopard frog, and the Tarahumara leopard dominantly granite, while the Huachucas strates” of the sky islands to see how frog. All of these species have experienced declines, from moderate to severe, have a combination of rocks with quartz- much they can explain diversity, and how throughout the Sky Island region. The Sky Island Alliance recognizes the ite, limestones, some shales and siltstones, they can help in restoring sky island importance of the dwindling riparian resources of southern Arizona and has conglomerates and some volcanics. Espe- habitats whose soils have been lost to hu- decided to concentrate its Sky Island Vertebrate Inventory and Monitoring Pro- cially in the upper elevations, the soils and man enterprise. When we include the gram on these riparian-obligate species along with our native fish. outcrops of limestone increase the num- consideration of soils in the sky island We are looking for volunteers who have experience or would like to gain ber of vascular plant species on the ecosysten, the need to protect valley floor experience in surveying for native fish, frogs, and other riparian-dependent spe- Huachucas compared to the Pinalenos. land becomes even clearer. Along with cies and can dedicate themselves to approximately 5-6 surveys this year and 10- * In some valleys, the “fill” includes a high granite boulder fields and limestone 12 surveys in 2003. Volunteers should be in excellent physical condition, have layer of clay (the argillic horizon). Great cliffs, we need to conserve special soils experience in backcountry hiking, and be ready to get wet. We will be hiking and examples are the Animas and San Rafael like relic sand dunes and cienaga clay bushwhacking in remote areas throughout the summer, so ability to deal with valleys. The clay layer has prevented the loams that nurture extensive food webs. extreme conditions and temperatures is of paramount importance. valleys from a mesquite/shrub invasion by Noticing and caring about rock and soils For more information, please contact Trevor Hare (520/624-7080; trevor@ holding the water close to the roots of the should bring us back to Earth. skyislandalliance.org). grasses and letting the grasses use all the Winter 2002-03 Sky Island Alliance 7 The Galiuro Mountains

by Bob VanDeven

ory and Dorita are the last to leave, grinding down the ited with killing the first grizzly in Arizona considered a serious crime. On the morning cratered jeep trail in the ’78 pickup we’ve affectionately named as well as a great many other animals, but by of February 10, 1918, the county Sheriff and three other men surprised the Power men at Skyota. I watch them cross Jackson Creek and begin the steep the spring of 1824 he and his men were starv- C ing. Frequent Apache raids convinced them their shack and a gunfight broke out. When climb up the ridge, engine noise carrying like the grief of some Pleis- to gather the lightest of their possessions and it was over, Jeff Power had been mortally tocene giant. A sparse cover of oak and manzanita is not enough to screen make a break for it, heading directly over wounded and the Sheriff and two others lay their progress and I can see Skyota lurching as she crests a saddle. A the Galiuros. Wrote Patty in his journal: dead. Tom and John dragged their father pause, just enough to spin the wheel hard right, then she noses over and On the morning of the first of April, we into the mine and attempted to make his last commenced descending the mountain, from the moments as comfortable as possible, then lit disappears. Miles overhead two parallel streamers unspool behind an out for the Mexican border. eastbound jet, the only marks on a sky bracketed by cliffs of pink andes- side of which we could discern a plain before us, which, however, it required two severe days I shiver all night in the cabin and awake the next day determined to move camp. I load ite and volcanic tuff. to reach… We had nothing to eat or drink. In the truck and head out of the valley, morn- descending from these icy mountains, we were I limp back along the road to where the throwing up tall cauliflowers of ash. Rather ing sun blazing on the snow-covered East cabin sits surrounded by evening primroses. than creating cinder cones, these eruptions surprised to find how warm it was on the Ridge. Once over the saddle I can see the It’s nearly dusk and cold air is sloughing off laid down sheets of andesite and rhyolite, the plains. On reaching them I killed an antelope, south end of the range, a jumble of hills and the peaks. This is the cue for the primroses ash settling and curing under its own weight of which we drank the warm blood; and how- draws arranged perpendicular to the road to open and already some have split to re- to become a cap of welded tuff. Millions of ever revolting the recital may be, to us it was so that the dusty ribbon is soon lost in end- veal whorls of yellow petals. It takes only a years later a process called block faulting refreshing, tasting like warm milk. less folds of green. Blooming yuccas stand few minutes for this counterintuitive process would cause these layers to tilt, building a With reports like this coming back it’s no like candles on the slopes but give way to to unfold—flowers opening at night—and pair of high ridges in the same way so many wonder Americans steered clear of the uniform groves of pinyon and where soon the yard is jeweled with dozens of three- other mountains in the basin and range prov- Galiuro country. For decades afterward it the land rises above 6,000 feet. I drive slow. inch blossoms waiting for the arrival of the ince were born. Thus the Galiuros took was ignored, left to the bears, ringtails, Over my left shoulder I can see Bassett Peak sphinx moth. It’s been a good spring. I push shape, subsequent years of erosion carving Apaches, and antelope. and for some reason I think of the B-24 open the cabin door, rusted knob ratcheting The next morning a cold wind blows bomber that lies crumpled on its flanks, re- uselessly in my hand, and emerge moments through the cabin. I rise, dress, and make membering the day I saw it glinting in my later with an old spindle-backed chair. In the coffee. Stepping into the yard I find the prim- binoculars and the rivulets of molten alumi- past three days my friends and I have hiked rose flowers wilted by frost, the valley lid- num frozen on the cliff. through some of the most severe country ded with clouds. By 11:00 it is snowing. I Cottonwood leaves flutter in the drainage imaginable, carving a route through Redfield put on all the clothes I have and start a fire where I leave my vehicle. I have a map but I Canyon and traversing the foothills on an old in the fireplace. Miners built this shelter while don’t really know where I’m going, only that jeep road before heading over the West working a nearby claim and as I warm my the stream leads west into a narrow defile Ridge. We’ve soaked our bones in a warm hands it occurs to me their dreams of wealth and that there is no trail. I find a fragment of spring and recorded no less than 52 species were probably inspired by William Blake, a a geode and spook a pair of mule deer who of wildflowers. We’ve seen a male bighorn Territorial Geologist who attempted to de- go bounding up a slope covered with shin (a first for most of us), gone swimming un- velop a lode along the same fault line. Blake daggers. How any mammal can run through der an icy waterfall, and slept in a stone house was something of a huckster and in 1902 his a field of these plants without skewering it- set deep in the hollow of a cliff, but some- company’s prospectus declared: “It is not our self is beyond me. River cobbles give way to where along the way a tendon parted in my purpose to exaggerate or misquote the facts, shelves and channels of water-worn stone, right ankle. I knew it was about to go, have and we say without fear of contradiction that making for an easier hike. My ankle throbs. even scheduled surgery for the following this is the largest ledge of gold ore in Ari- I’ve gone a mile, maybe two, when I come month, but still I intend to spend the next zona, if not in the U.S.” In fact it was one of to a confluence. With no clear destination five days in the mountains. The ankle is swol- the smallest, but the only thing harder to and no schedule I turn left and am soon len, the pain a dull presence under 800 milli- wrest from the land than gold is the rumor forced to detour around a pool by clamber- grams of ibuprofen. of gold. ing over a cliff. The rock here fractures into Seated in the yard I find myself wishing The Power family arrived in the Galiuros large plates and I kick one free, hearing it for beer, then abruptly forget my thirst as a in 1909 after ricocheting around the west for break like china in the canyon below. Up trio of sphinx moths flits into view. With their nearly 10 years. In Rattlesnake canyon they In Redfield Canyon, photo by Bob VanDeven ahead it looks as though the creek must is- long tongues, sphinx moths are the only crit- found a place that would hold them longer sue from a vertical wall of tuff and I descend ters that can reach the nectar in a primrose. two deep canyons between the ridges— than any other, a green and sinuous corridor once again to continue walking upstream. They’re large—three inches or more in Redfield draining to the south and Rattle- leading away from civilization and into his- The water pours over a five-foot sill and I length—and often mistaken for humming- snake to the north—so that today the range tory. For a while they ran cattle, but in 1917 lever myself over, discovering at once my mis- birds because of their ability to hover. They appears as a narrow, elongated “H”. Early Jeff, the father, acquired an abandoned mine take. The creek does not issue from the wall zip around my legs, following some mysteri- Spanish maps labeled this the Sierra de San in the heart of the range. His wife and mother ahead, rather it pours over the wall at the ous pattern or perhaps no pattern at all, never Calistro. The name probably refers to Saint had both died and his eldest son had moved, back of perfect, U-shaped grotto. A trick of spending more than a second at each blos- Callistus, a third century pope who gained leaving him to tend his herd with the help of the stone renders the little amphitheater in- som. To a sphinx moth this must look like a favor within the church for purchasing and a daughter, Ola May, and two younger sons, visible from anywhere downstream, yet now landscape studded with giant piña coladas. expanding a cemetery on the Via Appia. With John and Tom. Before long, Ola May would I can see bunches of scarlet penstemon grow- Twilight comes and still they chase each other the arrival of Anglo settlers the name also pass away, her death unexplained even ing nearby and hear the seductive patter of from flower to flower, their frantic search “Calistro” slowly became Galiuro (pro- after a coroner’s inquest. Striking it rich must the waterfall. I sit by the shallow pool at its mirrored by the zigzag paths of bats swoop- nounced gal-oor-o), yet centuries would pass have seemed the only way to redeem a life of base, remove my boot and plunge my foot ing low over the valley. It’s a sublime perfor- before anyone took up residence among the misfortune and poverty. The men labored to into the cool water. The pain in my ankle mance, yet in the long history of the Galiuros jagged peaks. build a wagon road through 25 miles of rug- fades and the sun hovers just beyond the there have also been episodes of startling vio- One of the first Anglos to pass through ged country, then purchased an old stamp opening of the grotto, pouring an ingot of lence and human struggle. was James Ohio Patty, a 19th century fur mill and brought it to the mine. warm light into the shadowy bowl. I feel About 25 million years ago a series of erup- trapper who wrangled permission from the Headstrong and suspicious, the old man lucky. In a mountain range named after a tions fractured the ground where I sit, send- Mexican Governor in Santa Fe to trap bea- kept his sons from registering for the draft saint who purchased a cemetery, not all have ing rivers of magma across the landscape and ver along the San Pedro River. Patty is cred- and in the midst of World War One this was been able to find such peace. 8 Sky Island Alliance Winter 2002-03 Arizona Sycamore: A Winter’s Tale by Kathy Pitts he glorious, golden leaves have fallen. They gather now in Wind-pollinated flowers appear in spring crispy sheets of carbonaceous material, tucking the earth into in clusters of two to five male and female balls about an inch in diameter. The brown- its winter bed. Above, smooth white branches reach into the blue T ish ball fruit ripens in fall, gradually break- desert sky, the tiny fists of next year’s leaves held tight in hidden buds. ing up over the winter. Although prolific One of few broad-leaf, deciduous trees to find native chubs and other aquatic spe- seed producers, seedling trees are uncom- to find a home in the Southwestern desert, cies such as leopard frogs, who perhaps even mon as the short-lived seeds require warm, the Arizona sycamore is an elegant of now are climbing into their mud bunks for moist soil to germinate. Mature trees can a cooler, wetter climate. Now it is found only a winter nap. reproduce vegetatively, sending up suckers in wet soils along streams and canyons of is often found in asso- from the root. the Sky Islands from about 3000 to 6000 ciation with Arizona walnut (Juglans ma- The sapwood is white to light yellow, feet. Large trees with massive trunks and jor), oak (Quercus sp.), ash (Fraxinus while the heartwood is brown, with a close spreading branches, they add a handsome velutina), cottonwood (Populus fremontii), texture and interlocked grain. Although it grace note to their riparian home. catclaw acacia (Acacia greggii), wild grape is occasionally used for making boxes and Their beauty is more than bark deep, (Vitis arizonica) and needle grass (Stipa sp.). mandolins, sycamore is not considered however. Their root systems are valuable This type of riparian ecosystem is home grove first lifted their hearts and lightened commercial timber. in protecting stream banks from erosion and highway to as much as 60 percent of their step. Nurseries in the Tucson and Phoenix and their trunks are home to woodpeck- Arizona’s resident and migratory wildlife. The Arizona species is one of three sy- areas sometimes sell it as a desert native, ers and other desert birds. In the Two canyons are famously named for the camores native to North America. Some- but unless you have a high water table or Chiricahua and Atascosa mountains, they species, one near Sedona, another west of times called Buttonball or Plane tree, its a stream running through your front yard, provide the favored nesting grounds of the Nogales on the border with Mexico, and genus name is from the Greek platys for this is not a good idea. The heat and stress elusive trogon (Trogon elegans). at least 72 other Arizona locations are broad and flat, referring to the shape of its of urban life make Arizona sycamores sus- And because sycamores are such thirsty named after the sycamore—not counting leaves. It is unrelated to the English sy- ceptible to scale and blight. plants, their presence is an indicator of a the housing development in a creosote and camore, which is a maple, or the Biblical Better to go visit your favorite grove, in year-round water supply. In the pools and cholla flat southeast of Tucson. But every- sycamore, a fig, although their leaf shapes your favorite canyon, and let it work its riffles at their feet, it’s sometimes possible one has a favorite spot where the sight of a are similar. magic once again. Chronicles of the Many-Legged by Joe Cicero

n early September, road survey work took SIA volunteers east wait to hitchhike a ride on pollinators. from Douglas along the Geronimo Trail, past the turnoff for Where they go from there is not known, Guadalupe Canyon, and over the Pelloncillos by way of Clanton but it could be that they finish their larval I life cycle on the provisions that solitary Draw, dropping down into the . In addition to the fabu- bees gather for their own young. lous wilderness along this mountain pass and a rare opportunity to But the biggest surprise of the week- hike the interior of the Gray Ranch, the southwest corner of New end was a small flight of the long-horned Mexico held several entomological treats as well. wood boring Tylosis suturalis. This is a new record for the United States! Prior The blacklight we set up brought in descent green ground color with metallic to this expedition, the species was known scores of moths and other belong- silver stripes on the wing covers longitu- only from Chihuahua, Michoacan, ing to a wide variety of families. Late-sea- dinally1. Zacatecas, plus other southern Mexican son flyers of Plusiotis gloriosa, a member of By day, the oil beetle Megetra punctata, states2. Day-flying and bright red with a line of primarily tropical scarabs, rolled jet black with faint red stripes, was out black markings, it is undoubtedly a mem- in too. These and their relatives are among bumbling around on various forbs. These ber of one mimicry ring or another, such the most stunning beetles in the world, and creatures are incredible; they belong to the as those well known to involve wasps and everyone who had never seen them before blister beetle family Meloidae, but, in con- diurnal moths, that doesn’t even occur in gawked in amazement at their brilliant iri- trast to most of their relatives, both the this northernmost distributional reach. male and the female are flightless, and both Adults of the genus Tylosis are recorded on possess a huge, bulbous abdomen. Vary- mallow-relatives Abutilon, Sida and ing in size from a grape to a prune, the Sphaeralcea. We found these beetles alight- abdomen dwarfs the normal-sized thorax ing to various unrelated plants with no and head, the latter two about as notice- apparent specificity, and we saw no mat- able as those of honey ants. I’ve attempted ing pairs that day. Therefore, we cannot in the past to explain this condition—for contribute any information on the phenol- readers acquainted with develop- ogy of this species yet. Larvae of other Ty- ment and evolution, my best guess is that losis have actually been reared out from the a large larval body volume is a derived root crowns of these plants3, and so it is condition, but metamorphosis did not very likely that T. suturalis is associated change to accommodate it. So, during with Malvaceae also. metamorphosis, the head and thorax shrink down to their original, ancestral 1Color photos of the jewel scarab fauna adult size, and the excessive, larval, vol- can be found in National Geographic ume they contain is displaced into the ab- Magazine, Feb 2001 domen, which distends it enormously. First 2Southwestern Naturalist 38(3):241 Mystery Photo: 3 instar larvae have been found clinging to Thanks go to cerambycid authority Do you know who this is? Visit us at bees, a behavior called phoresy. When the Frank Hovore for consultation on the par- www.skyislandalliance.org to see a whole photo. Tylosis suturalis female larvae hatch, they climb up to a flower, and ticulars of this species. Winter 2002-03 Sky Island Alliance 9 Eating Out and About Better than Roadkill by David Hodges ilcox is at the crossroads of many Sky Island ranges. himself. Friendly, outgoing and talkative, tions to Chiricahua National Monument. Whether the Chiricahuas, Galiuros, Santa Theresas, he has many wonderful stories and makes Just before leaving Wilcox and just before Peloncillos, Mt. Graham, the Blue Range, or any of the fine every visitor feel welcome and at home. So crossing the railroad tracks, turn left down W the next time you are near Wilcox and feel- the street between the last row of build- areas of southern New Mexico, all paths lead through this bustling me- ing a little hungry, head on over to ings and the Railroad Park. Look to your tropolis. One of Wilcox’s least known eateries (to the outside world) and Rodney’s for some great eats in a friendly left and you’ll see it next to the bar on the closely guarded secrets is Rodney’s, a Cajun-Mexican-Soulfood joint. setting. corner. Rodney’s is located in the old part of Food is good and good food is gooder. This I discovered Rodney’s on the way back has mastered. The green beans and corn Wilcox next to the historic theater and on philosophy has served me well through many from a road inventory trip with Matt were a pleasant addition and gave a nice the same block as the Mercantile, the old- years of restaurant sampling. My loyalty has Skroch. Tired and hungry, we were on the color balance to the meal. est continuous store in Arizona. To find, no reasonable limits when I find a goodun. Over lookout for food and were fortunate Other foods on the menu include both take exit 340 off I-10 and follow the direc- the years I’ve found a number of gooduns (and enough to stumble across a great experi- bean and green chile burritos, beans and baduns) in the rural areas of the Sky Islands. ence. The menu is loaded with an eclectic rice, liver and onions, hamburgers and Knowing how yummy a good meal is after a mix of treats. After much discussion, Matt fries, and assorted barbeque. Not a great day (or week) of hiking, it seems only fair that settled on the crawdad dinner and I went place for a vegetarian but one could cer- I share some of the best with our members – for the daily special, fried catfish with veg- tainly survive here. Drinks consist of a consider it a membership benefit! variety of soda’s self-served out of an ice etables and dirty rice. The crawdads ar- This will be a regular feature and will chest, water, or—if in the mood for an adult rived first with antennae and eyeballs in- occasionally give tips on some of the best beverage—you can go to the bar next door tact. The look on Matt’s face was price- places to get an adult beverage as well. We and get a drink to go. Seating consists of less. I’m happy to report that he sucked it also welcome reader submissions if you sidewalk tables out front with a great view up and ate everything but the eyeballs. have a place you think we just “need to of the Railroad Park, or on a nice patio My meal was very tasty; the catfish lightly know about.” breaded and fried to perfection. Creating with a large fig tree for shade. dirty rice is an art and one that Rodney The best thing about Rodney’s is Rodney

A Festival Feast The Storm by Gita Bodner The wind whispers to the moonlit night, ur festival benefit concert on October 5th was a smash hit. begging the silent hills The music and socializing were great, and we put on a feast to raise up their commanding voice, for some 200 people. Rave reviews of the food, and our desire O as it seeks the valley to thank our food donors Wild Oats and Trader Joe’s, prompted us to sheltered in their presence. share with you our recipes for success! Our feast was prepared in mere The trees listen hours, so we can guarantee that these recipes work for cooks-on-the- with deafening silence go! Note that all quantities are approximate. Who has time to measure to the torment the gusts when you’re hosting a party for hundreds? play upon their quaking leaves. The mountains shake within their stony walls, Quick fix super Sonoran salsa, 2 gallons: blended mix. Refrigerate until use. Try uttering a deep moan making one portion extra spicy for your Three 16oz cans Muir Glen Organic as another shattering demand fireproof endorphin addicts! echoes from the turbulent skies. Fire Roasted Tomatoes This salsa is best made the night be- A handful of peeled raw garlic cloves fore your feast, giving the flavors time The storm expands, Sea salt to blend. The salsa tends to get a bit hot- life continues. Fresh green jalapeños ter the next day, as the chiles distribute The beginning concludes 1 small can chipotle peppers their flavor throughout the mix. 2 to 3 pounds fresh organic tomatoes as the ending dawns, 1 to 2 bunches fresh cilantro and life fades into eternity.... 1 pound fresh organic yellow onions 2 bunches fresh organic green onions —Tiffany Ann Voltz Several limes Pour one can of fire-roasted tomatoes into a blender. Add as many roughly- chopped fresh tomatoes and onions as will fit, along with one chile from the chipotle can, several garlic cloves, a few jalapeños, a handful of cilantro, a pinch of salt, and juice from at least one lime. Blend just long enough to get all ingre- dients chopped and mixed. Adjust gar- lic, lime, and spices to taste. Pour into a large container with a lid. Repeat until you have more salsa than you think you and your guests could possible consume, adjusting spices for the whole pot. Chop green onions moderately fine and add to 10 Sky Island Alliance Winter 2002-03 The Sky Island Alliance hosted two vol- and partied in Sycamore Canyon, two tur- protocol is now in place that will cover what Road Rattlings unteer trainings on frog and fish identifi- keys (local and organic) were deep-fried, happens in the case of a backcountry acci- cation and riparian survey methods for ap- five gallons of veggie curry were enjoyed, dent or mishap. by Trevor Hare proximately 20 good folks, including more one keg of Nimbus was consumed, and So here we sit on the cusp of a new year, than few new to our volunteer ranks. prizes and volunteer certificates of appre- an uncaring and sometimes hostile politi- Well, another year has just about Back to the road, and roadless areas, we ciation were presented. cal climate calls for action, and action we passed, and from the dominant theme of had a great fall visiting many gorgeous November brought a backcountry mis- will do. Exciting field trips are in store and this election year, it has passed gas. From places and seeing some fantastic flora and hap in the Aravaipa Canyon Wilderness Sky Island Alliance is ever expanding the oil drilling in the Arctic National Wild- fauna. In early August we explored the and a great visit to the Gila Box together scope and effectiveness of it programs. I life Refuge, the rampant destruction of Apache Box and found heaven! and bears! with gorgeous deciduous riparian gallery invite all the concerned citizens in this spec- wildlife habitat by ATVs, more gas and I saw the first of the bears and like Ed Ab- forests in their fall colors and a full comple- tacular neck of the woods to come out on a oil drilling in Southern New Mexico, to bey I thought “…that this bear, like any ment of the animals, from frogs to bighorn trip, walk some roads, collect valuable in- war for oil in the Middle East, I am so other stranger, will like me, be pleased to and golden eagles, that call our rare desert formation, check out some roadless areas, sick of the combustion engine I could meet me, want to know me better.” I ex- rivers home. The mishap occurred when sit around the campfire, enjoy a beverage, puke! I do have to admit I drive. Yes I tended my hand in a friendly gesture and two new volunteers and myself overshot the and learn more about the Sky Islands and drive, a (GASP!) SUV, a 1993 Mitsubishi as happens when a bear sees a man, she turnaround time and decided to try to the people and organizations working to Montero. I love my truck; it takes me all was gone. A week later in the Peloncillo shortcut out of a tributary canyon above protect this crossroads of North American over Southern Arizona to fight the good Mountains a lion ran a 200-meter arc along Aravaipa Canyon back to our base camp Biological Diversity. We will be visiting the fight. But something must change; I want and across the road we were surveying and instead of retracing our route back out in Coyote Mountains Wilderness, Needles an electric truck, better yet a solar truck. disappeared over a hill with three lumber- the dark. But we ended up cliffed-out 200 Eye Wilderness and the Mescal Mountains Until then I guess I’ll have to drive my ing humans slow on its trail hoping for a feet above Aravaipa Creek as night fell and (ya’ll know what to bring), Turtle Moun- truck (20 mpg) out to the edge of an area last glimpse (see article on page 6). we had to stay put as the terrain was rough tain, the Gila Mountains, and to the west we are interested in, then walk! In September we visited the Western and the vegetation was sharp and profuse. side of Aravaipa in March! Don’t be shy— And walk we did, and we will continue Pajarito Mountains, where we looked at While we were cold and without much food Come on out! to walk! All winter and spring long! We roads near the Mexican border, the veg- or water, I knew that the problem was the will walk roads, we will walk wilderness etation was thick after the monsoon rains lack of any protocol for volunteers to fol- boundaries, we will walk (and sometimes with waist high grass and the late summer low in camp when we did not arrive back Watch for info on the wade) frog and fish transects, we will wildflowers were everywhere. In late Sep- that night. The volunteers in camp did an April 11-13 Sky Islands walk to public meetings, we will walk to tember we stayed close to Tucson and admirable job of handling the situation and bike race! Go to the store, and we will walk to our neigh- looked at the Mt. Fagan area of the Santa were greatly relieved to see us back in camp bike race! Go to borhood pub. Rita Mountains. We camped near by 9:30 the next morning. I want to com- www.skyislandtrophy.com The past six months have been a whirl- Rosemont Junction under the giant oaks, mend all the volunteers out with us that for details. ing dervish* of activity; during the sum- the area is a favorite of ATV users but north weekend and ensure all volunteers that a mer we started to get a handle on the pa- to the forest boundary (near Corona de perwork and then, all of a sudden, the frogs Tucson) is mostly roadless. In October, 20 and fish lured us back outside, and we went. volunteers and mi familia camped, hiked Wish List Volunteer Opportunities • Reliable late-model vehicle for fieldwork and/or policy-related travel • GPS units for mapping roads and wildlife sign n addition to our exciting and fulfilling field work opportunities • Comfortable office chairs in good condition (see page 7), we have lots of volunteer jobs in the office. If you can • Table-top paper cutter, new Ihelp, contact Trevor (520/624-7080; [email protected]). • Office supplies: copier paper, postage stamps, etc. • Newsletter Contributors—Contributors—Do you • Data entry—y—We need new volunteers enjoy writing and sharing with to help us input field inventory data others? Poetry, stories, art, commen- sheets into our database as well as new tary all desired for coming issues. membership information, at the SIA Work can be done from home. See office. Time is variable, moderate page 2 for guidelines. computer skills necessary. This step is Join Us • Host a house party—Help support critical for turning all our fieldwork into Sky Island conservation work by host- on-the-ground conservation action. Sky Island Alliance ing fundraising events at your home. • Save space this spring to help with our Call Acasia for details, 520/624-7080 upcoming bike racerace. Watch our f you received this newsletter and it’s time to renew your member- ext. 208. website for details. ship, please send in your check! If you are reading a friend’s news- Iletter, consider joining us! We rely on members for our basic opera- Become an SIA Program tions. Contributions are tax-deductible; we are a 501(c)3 organization. Basic membership is only $25, but if you add a little to that, here’s Fund Donor a sampling of what your dollars can do: •$50 will help us survey 30 miles of roads. tories in this issue and the Spring issue have been featuring pro- •$75 will sponsor volunteer training workshops. jects in our Rewilding Program: road inventory and restoration, •$100 will close one mile of road. S wilderness work, wildlife monitoring and the Missing Link, our Your Name ______Dragoons Restoration Demonstration Area. Address______All the necessary road closures, track- • Mexico—the Chihuahua Research ing workshops, and wilderness advocacy Station in Janos, and the Jaguar Pro- City ______State _____ Zip ______gets done only with extra funding, so please gram in Sonora. consider a special donation to one of the Please make your check out to Sky Phone ______E-Mail ______following funds: Island Alliance, with a note in the Memo • Roads & Restoration, line about which fund you’d like to sup- Sky Island Alliance • Wildlife Monitoring (Tracking), port. We’ll make sure your money goes to • Missing Link, the programs that mean the most to you, P.O. 41165 Thank you! • Wilderness, and and we’ll send you reports! Tucson, AZ 85717 Winter 2002-03 Sky Island Alliance 11 Sky Island Alliance Non-Profit Org. P.O. Box 41165 U.S. Postage Tucson, AZ 85717 PAID Permit #1156 Tucson, AZ

Whetstone Mountain Storm

The ugged, remote, and largely unknown, the Whetstone Moun- tains form a classic Southwestern wilderness. Few have ever s part of an upcoming wilderness proposal for the Coronado National R visited its steep canyons or seen the sweeping grassland vistas available A Forest, the Whetstones are the second mountain range to be featured from its ridge tops, but treasures await those sufficiently strong and adventurous. under our new newsletter format. Upcoming newsletters will feature different Wooded streams and isolated pine groves form islands of rare life forms, while areas proposed for wilderness designation. To learn more about our roadless ancient fossils bear evidence of life long past. area surveys and wilderness work, contact us at 520/624-7080. The Whetstone Mountains reach their oak and tion this range has received. A small metal line pine-clad high point of 7,711 feet on Apache Peak, shack, decaying high in one of the canyons, still rising approximately 3,000 feet from the grass- has newspapers from 1939 on its floor. Like that lands at their feet. Watersheds on the eastern side shack, there are scattered relics of historic drain into the San Pedro River, while those on ranching operations scattered across the moun- the western side feed Cienega Creek, centerpiece tain range, but most have never been reached of Las Cienegas National Conservation Area and by roads and are now overgrown by shrubs one of the most important streams in southeast- and trees. The range’s dense population of ern Arizona. The Whetstone Mountains also whitetail deer also attracts hunters, both hu- form a critical linkage in the chain of Arizona’s man and feline. The south end of the Whet- sky islands, connecting the Rincon and Santa stones was historically the site of several small Catalina Mountains in the north to the Huachuca mining operations, and a few mining claims Mountains and the Sierra Madre to the south. with attendant roads remain active. These have The range’s limestone core (from which it gets been excluded from the proposed wilderness. its name) creates spring-fed perennial streams and Despite its rugged terrain, the Whetstones are isolated oases throughout the range, including threatened by activities in and around the range. Wakefield and French Joe Canyons. These sup- Recreational overflow from the recently opened port rich riparian communities with frogs, turtles, Kartchner Caverns State Park is increasing visi- cottonwood and willow trees, and a great diver- tation of nearby sites, and expanding commer- sity of birds. The limestone itself also supports cial development of the area. Arizona Highway many rare plants and animals. Though biological 90, one mile east of the forest boundary, was ex- treasures of the Whetstones are still poorly panded to four lanes to accommodate increasing known, a recent inventory of the range found five traffic, thus becoming a major barrier to wildlife amphibian and 37 reptile species, including at least movement between the Whetstones and the San five species which reach the northern limits of Pedro River. A major residential development is their distribution here. This high diversity reflects underway to the northeast of the range, large-lot the special nature of the range itself, as well as suburban housing is filling land to the north, and the overlaps between the fauna of the Sierra second-home development is spreading out of Madre and the Rocky Mountains, and the Elgin to the southwest. Sierra Vista is growing Sonoran and Chihuahuan Deserts. rapidly, as are Benson and Vail, thus ringing the For human visitors, the steep, brush-covered Whetstones with human activity. The limited set terrain of the Whetstones challenges even the of rough forest roads within the Whetstones has hardiest hikers. Only a few old pack trails cross been gradually expanding in some of the can- its ridges, relics of ranching efforts decades ago. yons, as off-road drivers take signs and barriers There are not even foot trails to the highest at road ends as points of departure, pushing 12 Sky Island Alliancepeaks, providing evidence of the limited visita- steadily deeper W intointer the unprotected 2002-03 wilderness.