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Italy's Sibillini Mountains

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Italy's Sibillini Mountains Naturetrek Tour Report 8 - 15 June 2016 Spring Gentian by Jill Robinson Report compiled by Philip Thompson Image courtesy of Jill Robinson Naturetrek Mingledown Barn Wolf's Lane Chawton Alton Hampshire GU34 3HJ UK T: +44 (0)1962 733051 E: [email protected] W: www.naturetrek.co.uk Tour Report Italy's Sibillini Mountains Tour participants: Philip Thompson (leader) with seven Naturetrek clients Day 1 Wednesday 8th June On arrival into Ancona, the main group met up with one early arrival before soon getting underway heading south towards the Sibillini National Park. We stopped en route at the attractive Country Park of Abbadia di Fiastre where we had a light lunch and refreshing drink in the hot sunny weather. A short walk was then taken through the park where we encountered a number of familiar plants, birds and butterflies. Of note were the striking green Italian Wall Lizards that scampered by the sides of the path. The sound of purring Turtle Doves and song of Nightingales and Blackcaps emanated from the thick woodland cover, while overhead the characteristic flight calls of a couple of Bee-eaters were heard and then seen. With the group fading after their early start and the sun beating down, we soon headed back to the vehicle to continue our journey to Amandola where we were to be based for the week. On arrival at the hotel, we checked in and still had some available time before dinner for a walk down into the town for a look around and enjoy our first Italian ice cream. Day 2 Thursday 9th June The weather was looking to be unsettled today with the chance of showers so we opted to visit the Piano Grande area where we would only be taking short walks. After a long and winding drive, a short stop was taken to photograph a colony of Sword-leaved Helleborines (Cephalanthera longifolia) before we drove on to take a further stop in the Monte Vettore foothills. The slopes here were full of colour, comprising numerous species of flower among which Neotinea (Orchis) tridentata and Globularia meridionalis were the highlights. The overcast conditions had kept butterflies to a minimum and as we continued our explorations darkened and began to rain requiring a quick re-boarding of the bus just in time. We drove on over the pass at Forca de Presta and dropped down into the open expanse of the Piano Grande, surrounded by the summits of Monte Vettore and several others. We drove on to the southern end where we climbed a little to take a short walk in one of the many small Beech woodlands that clothe the grassy slopes. A Tree Pipit was singing prominently in the car park glade when we stopped, allowing a few photos to be taken. The rain had eased by now and we were able to have a short wander in the area, finding a number of interesting plants. Prominent among these were a few Paeonia officinalis flowering in the meadow on the woodland edge. Within the forest cover, large numbers of Saxifraga rotundifolia were found with a smaller amount of Cardamine bulbifera. Moving on, we next explored the meadows nearby for a longer walk in the improving weather. These held another rich assembly of plants in flower, keeping us busy for some time. The endemic Gentianella columnae was found in good numbers among abundant Erysimum pseudorhaeticum, Leucanthemopsis alpina and Helianthemum oelandicum subsp. incanum. The Wild Tulips (Tulipa sylvestris subsp. australis) that grow here in numbers were past their best with only a few still in flower. Similarly, rather disappointingly, we were only able find a single Fritillaria orientalis with any semblance of flower remaining. A couple of Glanville Fritillary butterflies however had begun to take wing in the slowly warming conditions. © Naturetrek September 16 1 Italy's Sibillini Mountains Tour Report Next we drove on into Castellucio, set on its isolated hilltop within the plain, where we stopped to have our picnic lunch in a pleasant spot overlooking the Piano Grande and surrounding summits. We had a short spell of birding, first in an attempt to pick out an Ortolan Bunting that could be heard singing below us. This frustratingly couldn’t be found but, during our scans, a couple of red-backed Shrikes were spotted and rather luckily, while admiring a Corn Bunting singing from an isolated bush, a Wryneck appeared next to it! The lunch was then set out and, upon completion, a glance up revealed an enormous dark bank of rain cloud rolling across the plain in our direction! A rapid packing up resulted in our lunch being eaten in the vehicle while the rain swept over us to clear once more. A compensatory ice cream was now required from a nearby café before a short look around the shops selling a range of local produce for which the area is famous. Refreshed and invigorated, we drove on to stop below Castellucio to admire a couple of the arable fields that were full of poppies and Cornflowers (Centaurea cyanus) with several other less showy but attractive cornfield annuals that still thrive in this area. Moving on to begin retracing our route back, we stopped on the pass where we took another short wander. Close by in the grass the rather inaptly named Apennine endemic Erodium alpinum was found with its large pink flowers and deeply cut leaves. Overhead, a large flock of Red-billed Chough passed over, swirling among the higher slopes. We admired the views and walked a short way along the road checking over the rocky protrusions and scree slopes. A couple of examples of the bellflower-relative Edraianthus graminifolius were found, allowing a close look, in comparison to the large profuse numbers of this species seen earlier in the day growing on a rocky section of roadside in an area where stopping was impossible. Numerous rosettes of Saxifraga callosa were producing a few of the striking large drooping panicles of white flowers, which are a feature of this area. As we set out for the final return leg, an quick stop was needed as we drove past a Rufous-tailed Rock Thrush perched on a roadside post. After a little reversing, we were then able to obtain some great views and photos of this lovely bird. We then headed on home for a rest and dinner. Day 3 Friday 10th June With our weather forecast of the previous evening promising only a slight chance of rain, we awoke to rather heavy overcast skies somewhat diminishing our confidence in this. Nevertheless, we set out to hopefully walk the Gola dell’ Infernaccio. Arriving in the car park at the start of the route, the heavens opened with a vengeance rather adding to the feeling of being at the entrance to hell! A change of plans was hastily arranged and we opted to firstly take a drive to visit the church of the Madonna dell Ambro in the next valley. We enjoyed some quiet time in this beautiful and very holy church before having a coffee in a nearby café while we considered our options, looking out at the unimproved conditions! With any hope of walking in the higher regions of the Sibillini Park out of the question, we headed off to visit the lovely small town of Montefalcone somewhat nearer to the coast. During the journey, the conditions gradually improved before not long before we arrived it had miraculously cleared and we arrived in warm sunshine. Set above a steep rock face, the town commands a wonderful position and holds a couple of interesting birds that are a little harder to find within the Sibillini NP. We firstly spent some time scanning the sheer cliffs from an attractive observation terrace. It was not long before we heard and then spotted a couple of young Peregrine Falcons beseeching their parents for food. Flying close to the rocks, a pair of Crag Martins were 2 © Naturetrek September 16 Italy's Sibillini Mountains Tour Report also found patrolling back and forth. We next spent some individual time walking around this attractive town before returning to have lunch on the terrace. A further scan of the cliffs resulted in finding our third target species of Blue Rock Thrush that put in a couple of fleeting appearances. A short walk by the group was then taken through some attractive habitat, rising through woodland to a summit above the sheer cliffs we had been scanning earlier. A nice selection of orchids was found comprising a good colony of Bug Orchid (Anacamptis coriophora) and both Ophrys bertolonii and O. fuciflora. Rain once more put a stop to walking any further. Our next stop was a drive to the Lago di San Ruffino. Having successfully dodged the rain we arrived, once more, in good sunny conditions. We then set out on a walk alongside the lake. After the rain, the track was overrun with tiny froglets leaping beneath our feet as we passed. Upon reaching a view of the lake, both Great Crested and Little Grebes were spotted on the water. A very unexpected Squacco Heron flew into the willow swamp in front of us allowing great views. Another unexpected discovery was a Muskrat swimming through the waterside vegetation! A little further on in a glade of tall poplars, the song and calls of Golden Oriole could be heard. After a period of waiting and scanning a few typically unsatisfactory glimpses of male and female birds were obtained by a few high in the canopy. In similar fashion a singing Cirl Bunting could not be found but a nearby Spotted Flycatcher did appear making a couple of sallies after insects.
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