DOCSLIB.ORG

This Has Been a Rather Interesting Quarter for Me. Whilst I Didn't Get Too

Total Page：16

File Type：pdf, Size：1020Kb

Download full-text PDF Read full-text
This Has Been a Rather Interesting Quarter for Me. Whilst I Didn't Get Too May 2007 1. EDITORIAL This has been a rather interesting quarter for me. Whilst I didn’t get too much hiking or climbing done, a lot of other things have happened. For starters, being meet leader for the Krantzberg meet was just enough to hold sway, to convince my rather pregnant wife, that it was my duty to the club, to go on my last weekend mountaineering trip before the birth of our first anarchist. This was an awesome meet, the breathtaking untouched beauty, solitude, and warm campfire nights with good friends, all the things that make Krantzberg a special place. I am always amazed at how every time I go there, the mountain seems to get bigger and bigger, and my body feels more shattered, and abused, after each successive trip. You would think it gets easier with experience, but not! Let the mediocre grades of most of the routes not lull you into confidence, as even the easiest route, can be a serious undertaking, and requires a significant dollop of big match temperament. The number of times you find yourself on the face, you think you are off route, the gear is dodgy, the rock unstable under your feet, and you are surrounded by overhangs and eerie blank faces. There is no comfort, in any direction you look, you are stuck. That sick feeling begins to sink into your stomach. You peer down below at the cars, the campsite, the beers in the cooler box, your warm sleeping bag, and you long for them, you keep asking yourself, what am I doing up here, and you crave for that desperate feeling to go away, and be replaced by something sure, something safe, and something comfortable. You know you can’t be lowered off, you have to keep on going. You stare at your options again and again. The blank face, the evil overhang, or the polished open book, none of which look like they will swallow so much as a micro-nut, or size 000 friend. A small group of vultures start circling a little closer around you, and you wonder whether they know something you don’t, and you wish for wings to be able to fly off, and glide down to safety. Then you see it, on the face: left foot on that edge, pressure off the little ridge, reach for the crimper, right foot up, and lunge for the ledge and safety. It might just work. You chalk up, you look again, carefully measuring the distance between the holds, making sure the big old mountain is not trying to fool you by its awesome size. You breath in, and exhale deeply, more chalk, more breathing… and you go for it, leaving the safely of the jug and foothold. Like clockwork, you follow the mechanical sequence you planned in your head, you feel the warmth in your heart as your hands latch onto the big ledge above and drag yourself up. Gasping, you look around for hope. Miraculously, like Jacobs ladder, the most magnificent crack line towers above you, declaring the ecstasy that will lead you to the top. You look down at the flat world below, and realise that at that moment, you wouldn’t swap that feeling for anything else in the world. That’s Krantzberg, and I love it. Other interesting things this quarter, are a couple of changes on the committee. Firstly, we have a new chairman, Chris Ziranek, who has promised action. Since I keep bumping into him at the crags, I can at least say that he is out there, and doing stuff, and not only that, is probably the first chairman to deliver an article (on climbing!) for the newsletter on debut. We also welcome Peter Lazarus to the legal portfolio, and Vanessa Mayman to public relations. The JHB section hosted the first trad-challenge, a weekend of unbolted bliss, at Cedarberg/Tonquani, for real climbers, on real rock. This quarter promises to be even more exciting. To keep us amused during the cold winter nights, we will host the first ever MCSA club Cookathon: BBC food eat your heart out, as the MCSA’s greatest chefs battle it out with MSR stoves to see who will be king the gourmet mountain. And if the popularity of the family meet was anything to go by, we will also be running the first ever “babies in the bush” evening, for parents and tots to share their secrets and experience, on how to successfully introduce your offspring to the mountains, from a very early age. Perfect timing, as yours truly is now the proud father of little Clara Edda Adrian (born 15 May), and our esteemed treasurer Dave Jewel and wife Zoe celebrated the birth of Timothy Bryce Jewel on the 24 May. And finally, so that you don’t think we are all going soft, we have decided to do something really hardcore, and for the first time ever, an MCSA section will host South Africa’s most talented climbers, to pit themselves against Gauteng’s hardest sport climbs. And finally, you guys have outdone yourselves this quarter, with some awesome contributions! Thank you! Thank you! Peter Adrian 2. MPONJWANA (3117M), DRAKENSBERG It was twenty to three in the afternoon and Chris and I were looking up a grass gully wondering if it was 'the obvious grass gully immediately round the corner' from the 60m traverse on mixed grass and rock, 2 pitches from the top. 3pm was our pre-set cut off time. We were weighing up the options; advance to the summit and risk a very cold night out or the disappointing safety of backing off. Mponjwana is a magnificent freestanding peak, separated by a deep gully from the escarpment, and at the north end of the Rockeries. Situated in the Mweni area of the Natal Drakensberg, it has grand views of the Eastern Buttress and Devils Tooth of the Royal Natal National Park to the north, and the Bell and Cathedral Peak to the south. We had hiked up the escarpment with the meet into the area organised by Rance and Andrew over the long weekend. It was a good crowd of about 20. We had taken 2 days to get from the Tourist Centre up to Mponj Cave. I was somewhat reluctant to join the trip as the weather forecast suggested a possible family of cold fronts blowing up from Cape Town. Both my last 2 'Berg trips had been rained out. But this time there were mostly clear blue skies, though the nights were quite cold. Mponj Cave (2935m) is really ideally placed, actually overlooking the peak's southern face. It is a comfortable overhang, shielded from most of the wind. Being NE facing, it catches the sun for most of the day, and can get quite warm, even in mid winter. Fortunately it was unoccupied when we arrived. That night it blew like hell in the exposed areas; the temperature dropped to well below zero, and even the swirling mist froze to form a light dusting of snow pellets. So when we woke up to sun and clear skies on 'the day', there was some reluctance to leave our warm sleeping bags. We eventually levered ourselves away by about 8am. I had Duncan Souchon's book, Serpent Spires, which gave a short but adequate route description. Nevertheless, we lost ½hour finding the cairn about 200m E of the cave, which marked the easiest access to the decent gully. Then it was pretty easy scrambling down the 150m or so, through the 'worm hole' to the start of the climb at the base of some water worn gullies. Under the circumstances, we proposed to take the easiest (and hopefully the fastest) route to the top, following Thomsen and Snelson's original route first climbed in 1946. There are 6 formal pitches on the climb, the hardest graded at F1, with significant sections of scrambling. But it is the length of the climb (about 300m) and the route finding that are the challenge. Chris took the first lead. We soon found the rock and the gear to be bitterly cold. Getting to the top of a pitch, one's hands were numb but one's feet were toast. However, after belaying the leader for a pitch, the reverse was so, as one's feet froze but one's hands had the hot flushes. So the leader of the first pitch was destined to lead all the pitches that morning, at least till it warmed up. We progressed well clearing the depths of the gully. Coming within sight of the cave, we found we had quite an audience, as the hikers had slogged up from their campsite below to check us out. After a couple of 'misinterpretations' of our route description, we arrived at the 'obvious grass gully', 2 pitches from the top. What swung our decision to go on, was that some kind soul had bolted rap chains for the descent. It would make our retreat so much faster, safer and more manageable than abbing off the bundles of very dubious looking tat, even if we backed them up with more cord. So, it was up the grass gully, then to the grassy face to the right which was a bit scary as it was only graded D but totally unprotected and quite exposed. Scramble on to the base of Thomsen's chimney, (10m, F1). Up and a final scramble to the summit. I heard this ecstatic whoop of delight as Chris lead to the top, shortly followed by mine.
Load more

Recommended publications
  • GLACIERS of NEPAL—Glacier Distribution in the Nepal Himalaya with Comparisons to the Karakoram Range
    Glaciers of Asia— GLACIERS OF NEPAL—Glacier Distribution in the Nepal Himalaya with Comparisons to the Karakoram Range By Keiji Higuchi, Okitsugu Watanabe, Hiroji Fushimi, Shuhei Takenaka, and Akio Nagoshi SATELLITE IMAGE ATLAS OF GLACIERS OF THE WORLD Edited by RICHARD S. WILLIAMS, JR., and JANE G. FERRIGNO U.S. GEOLOGICAL SURVEY PROFESSIONAL PAPER 1386–F–6 CONTENTS Glaciers of Nepal — Glacier Distribution in the Nepal Himalaya with Comparisons to the Karakoram Range, by Keiji Higuchi, Okitsugu Watanabe, Hiroji Fushimi, Shuhei Takenaka, and Akio Nagoshi ----------------------------------------------------------293 Introduction -------------------------------------------------------------------------------293 Use of Landsat Images in Glacier Studies ----------------------------------293 Figure 1. Map showing location of the Nepal Himalaya and Karokoram Range in Southern Asia--------------------------------------------------------- 294 Figure 2. Map showing glacier distribution of the Nepal Himalaya and its surrounding regions --------------------------------------------------------- 295 Figure 3. Map showing glacier distribution of the Karakoram Range ------------- 296 A Brief History of Glacier Investigations -----------------------------------297 Procedures for Mapping Glacier Distribution from Landsat Images ---------298 Figure 4. Index map of the glaciers of Nepal showing coverage by Landsat 1, 2, and 3 MSS images ---------------------------------------------- 299 Figure 5. Index map of the glaciers of the Karakoram Range showing coverage
    [Show full text]
  • Thirteen Nations on Mount Everest John Cleare 9
    Thirteen nations on Mount Everest John Cleare In Nepal the 1971 pre-monsoon season was notable perhaps for two things, first for the worst weather for some seventy years, and second for the failure of an attempt to realise a long-cherished dream-a Cordee internationale on the top of the world. But was it a complete failure? That the much publicised International Himalayan Expedition failed in its climbing objectives is fact, but despite the ill-informed pronouncements of the headline devouring sceptics, safe in their arm-chairs, those of us who were actually members of the expedition have no doubt that internationally we did not fail. The project has a long history, and my first knowledge of it was on a wet winter's night in 1967 at Rusty Baillie's tiny cottage in the Highlands when John Amatt explained to me the preliminary plans for an international expedi­ tion. This was initially an Anglo-American-Norwegian effort, but as time went by other climbers came and went and various objectives were considered and rejected. Things started to crystallise when Jimmy Roberts was invited to lead the still-embryo expedition, and it was finally decided that the target should be the great South-west face of Mount Everest. However, unaware of this scheme, Norman Dyhrenfurth, leader of the successful American Everest expedition of 1963-film-maker and veteran Himalayan climber-was also planning an international expedition, and he had actually applied for per­ mission to attempt the South-west face in November 1967, some time before the final target of the other party had even been decided.
    [Show full text]
  • Rod Valentine, President 1992-94 (On the Archangel, Stanage) Photograph by Mike Richardson the FELL and ROCK JOURNAL
    Rod Valentine, President 1992-94 (on The Archangel, Stanage) Photograph by Mike Richardson THE FELL AND ROCK JOURNAL Edited by C. J. Wright Volume XXV (3) No. 74 Published by THE FELL AND ROCK CLIMBING CLUB OF THE ENGLISH LAKE DISTRICT 1994 CONTENTS The President's Address, 1993 Rod Valentine 361 An Exclusive Ski Resort Andy Coatsworth 367 'Mamba'Country Stuart Gallagher 378 Tra Mare e Monti, Corsica Joyce Cosby 385 Vaut de Voyage Dave Rhodes 390 Nostalgie de la Boue Kim Meldrum 393 Sex on Pillar Alan Lawson 396 Land of the Morning Calm JimRigg 399 In the Steps of Slingsby RonKenyon 402 Stok Kangri, Ladakh Hatty Harris 413 St. Bees-Sun, Sea and Sandstone Bill Young 417 A Very Long Walk with Titus Stephen J. H. Reid 419 The Next Generation? Leslie Shore 423 In the Court of Appeal Ian Roper 425 The Abraham Brothers Memorial Plaque Editor 431 A New Index for the Journal Geoff Cram 432 The Library and The Archive George Watkins 436 In Memoriam 437 Legacies 457 Reviews 458 Club Officers and Meets, 1993 and 1994 479 THE PRESIDENTS ADDRESS 87th ANNUAL DINNER, SHAP WELLS HOTEL, 6 NOVEMBER 1993 Good evening, everyone. I must say straight away that if you detect any mispronunciations or slurred speech it's not because I have had too much ale already, but I do have a heavy cold this weekend. I would also like to draw your attention to the fact that Bill Clinton and I were inaugurated as Presidents almost on the same day last November. I would, however, like to point out that Bill is being paid considerably more for his job than I am for mine, but I hope that I don't sound half as boring as he does as I deliver my speech.
    [Show full text]
  • Parys Mountain, Anglesey
    YRC JOURNAL Exploration, mountaineering and caving since 1892 issue 21 Series 13 SUMMER 2016 Articles Trekking in Morroco Azerbaijan Summer Isles Parys Mountain MOUNTAINS OF MOURNE ROSEBERRY TOPPING PHOTOGRAPH CHRIS SWINDEN 1 CONTENTS 3 Editorial 4 Azerbaijan John & Valerie Middleton 8 Invasion Roy Denney 10 Summer Isles Alan Linford 11 Poet’s Corner Wm Cecil Slingsby 12 Australia Iain Gilmour 13 Parys Mountain Tim Josephy 16 Chippings 21 Natural History 26 Obituaries and appreciations 33 Morocco 48 Reviews 49 UK Meet reports Jan 8-10 Little Langdale, Cumbria Jan 28-31 Glencoe, Scotland Feb 26-28 Cwm Dyli, Wales Mar 18-20 Newtonmoor, Scotland Apr 22-24 Thirlmere, Cumbria May 7-14 Leverburgh, Harris May 20-22 North Wales Jun 10-12 Ennerdale, Cumbria YRC journal Page 2 EDITORS NOTE The Club has been in existence almost We have been trawling through the 124 years which means next year will archives and old journals checking facts be something of a celebration and we and looking for material to include and it look forward to an interesting meets has reminded us that we have lots of spare programme. copies of old journals. We always print a few spares to replace members lost ones We are also bringing out a special edition and to be able to provide recent ones to of the Journal to mark the occasion. Work prospective members but invariably there on it is well advanced and I would like to are a few left over. thank the many members who have provided me with snippets and old In addition, many members’ families give photographs.
    [Show full text]
  • Mythos Tibet Reportage Zur Fotoausstellung Stupa Im Kloster Samye Mythos Tibet Reise Auf Dem Dach Der Welt
    Reportagereisen Mythos Tibet Reportage zur Fotoausstellung Stupa im Kloster Samye Mythos Tibet Reise auf dem Dach der Welt Der Mythos Tibet lebt. Es gibt nur wenige Länder und Regionen, von denen eine solch langanhaltende Faszination ausgeht. Es mag an der langen Isolation des Landes liegen, seiner exponierten Lage und den ewigen Zwist, welche die Neugier wach halten. Doch seit dem Einmarsch Chinas 1950 haben sich Mythos, Menschen und das Land geändert. Heute polarisiert der Name Tibet. Den modernen Einflüs- sen zum Trotz versuchen die Tibeter an ihren Traditionen festzuhalten. Handys und Motorräder stehen im Wettstreit mit Buttertee und Yaks und ergänzen sich gleich- zeitig. Eine Reise durch Tibet ist heute vielschichtig und zwischen Traditionen und Mythen, Politik und Moderne geprägt. Fotoausstellung Kirche St.Michaelis, Braunschweig 2010 Fotoausstellung Kloster Drübeck / Harz 2012 Fotoausstellung Palmenhaus Bad Dürrenberg 2014 Matthias Ennersch, Ingenieur und Journalist, bereiste das Dach der Welt und zeigt Ansichten aus einem Land, welches zwischen Traditionen und Moderne im Dunst- kreis chinesischer Okkupation steht. 3 Kloster Samye im Tal des Yarlung Tsangpo - Von vormals 6.000 haben nur 13 tibetische Klöster die Kulturrevolution in den 1960er Jahren ohne Zerstörungen überlebt. Einige der zerstörten Anlagen werden seit Mitte der 1980er Jahre wieder restauriert, Mönche und Nonnen füllen die derzeit etwa 250 Klöster wieder mit Leben. Reise auf dem Dach der Welt Alle Übrigen aber, die inzwischen immer- und seine Menschen indessen verändert. fort Verstärkung erhalten hatten, ritten in Der kulturelle Genozid der Tibeter und Mythos Tibet geschlossenen Gliedern und in wildester systematisch wachsende Einfluss der Chi- Karriere gerade auf unser Zelt los.
    [Show full text]
  • GREENLAND, 1950, Part 1. N. Tennent
    GREENLAND, 1950 • • GREENLAND, 1950 PART I BY NORMAN TENNENT T 8.30 A.M. on Sunday, July 9, nine days out from Copenhagen, we sighted Cape Farewell. Snowpeaks were just discernible as white arrowheads pointing to the sky behind the morning mist. Features and shapes like the Coolins in winter became clearer as we closed the land. They were spectacular enough to be Dolomites, but their setting of blue-green seas and brilliant glaciers was finer than the lands of the south-east Tyrol. They are unclimbed : nothing has been done in the area since the original survey made by Gino W atkins from an open boat. We landed three days later at Holsteinborg on the west coast, 30 miles within the Arctic Circle. It was a highly developed settlement ; along the foreshore were oil tanks, storehouses, a canning factory and a boatyard. The individual members of the expedition found different interests on shore, but the rocks were the concern of all six of us ; Dr. Drever, MacKenzie and Wyllie subjected them to serious scientific study, whilst Dr. Slesser, Ransley and myself, who according to the scientists repre­ sented ' the purely recreational side,' used them for frivolous though athletic pursuits. For us the most attractive thing within a mile or two was a z,soo ft. peak, known as' The Old Woman's Hat.' The peculiar atmosphere of the harbour caused by absence of drains and presence of whale was left behind as we climbed up through the settlement. It was like setting off from a remote AI pine village.
    [Show full text]
  • T. R. BURNETT President 1927—1929. the Fell and Rock Climbing Club of the ENGLISH LAKE DISTRICT
    T. R. BURNETT President 1927—1929. THE Fell and Rock Climbing Club OF THE ENGLISH LAKE DISTRICT. VOL. 8. 1928. No. 1. LIST OF OFFICERS. President: T. R. BURNETT. Vice-Presidents: R. S. T. CHORLEY. L. W. SOMERVELL. Honorary Editor of Journal: KATHARINE C. CHORLEY, 22 Thurlow Road, London, N.W.3. Assistant Hon. Editor: GRAHAM WILSON, 171 Park Avenue, Hull. Honorary Librarian: MARJORIE M. CAIN, Rosebank House, Ramsbonom, Manchester. Honorary Secretary: J. C. APPLEYARD, Greystones, Torver, Coniston, Lanes. Honorary Treasurer: W. G. MILLIGAN, 59 Croslands Park, Barrow. Members of Committee: Miss E. M. ANSON. D. LEIGHTON. G. BASTERFIELD. W. G. PAPE. B R. GOODFELLOW. Miss D. L. PILKINGTON. F. GRAHAM. H. E. SCOTT. H. S. GROSS. P. D. THOMAS. C. F. HADFIELD. MRS. WAKEFIELD. B. S. HARLOW. MRS. J. H. WHITWORTH. Honorary Members: GEORGE D. ABRAHAM. BRIG.-GEN. THE HON. C. G. BRUCE. BENTLEY BEETHAM. J. NORMAN COLLIE. W. P. HASKETT-SMITH. GEOFFREY HASTINGS. THE RT. HON. LORD LECONFIELD. LT.-COL. E. F. NORTON. N. E. ODELL. E. H. P. SCANTLEBURY. WILLIAM CECIL SLINGSBY. GODFREY A. SOLLY. T. HOWARD SOMERVELL. ARTHUR W. WAKEFIELD. L. R. WILBERFORCE. GEOFFREY WINTHROP YOUNG. 7 ON SRON NA CICHE BY ERNEST WOOD-JOHNSON. It is quite possible that Skye weather during the midsummer of 1928 was exceptional; it is equally possible that it was normal. It rained; not occasional half-hearted showers, but the real good and heavy stuff that bounces back a yard from the rocks. We fought our way up the hillsides for days, but towards the end of our holiday, when the rain settled down to mere two-hour showers and drizzle, thought we saw signs of the long hoped for dry spell.
    [Show full text]
  • The Himalayan Scientific Expedition, 1960-61
    HIMALAYAN SCIENTIFIC EXPEDITION, 1960- 61 343 HIMALAYAN SCIENTIFIC EXPEDITION 1960- 61 (A Himalayan Winter, Rakpa Peak, Ama Dablam, Makalu) BY MICHAEL WARD HE Himalayan Scientific and Mountaineering Expedition led by Sir Edmund Hillary and sponsored by Field Enterprises Educa­ tional Corpn. had three main objects. First, a thorough inves­ tigation into the legend of the Abominable Snowman; second, an investigation of the long-term effects of high altitude on man and, third, the ascent of Makalu without the use of oxygen. During the winter, too, a programme in physical geography would be carried out, including glaciology, metereology, and solar radiation studies. The second and third stages of this expedition were complementary to one another, as a number of physiological observations were going to be made on the upper slopes of Makalu. It was hoped, too, that members of the wintering party would be so acclimatised that the ascent without oxygen would be not too big a burden. The quest for the Abominable Snowman was carried out in and around the Rolwaling Valley. The party consisted of: Sir Edmund Hillary; Dr. Larry Swan, an ecologist from Chicago; Martin Perkins, Zoo Director from Chicago; John Dienhart, also from Chicago; Dr. Tom N evison; Desmond Doig of the Statesman, Calcutta; George Lowe; Peter Mulgrew; Pat Barcham and Michael Gill. To the north of the Rolwaling Valley lies a group of mountains dominated by Men­ lungtse and Gaurisankar. It was in this region that Eric Shipton and I in I 9 5 I saw some footprints that could be attributed to the 'Yeti'. No evidence of the Yeti was found in the Rolwaling, although many legends and footprints were encountered.
    [Show full text]
  • Nobility Group
    ADAMANT GROUP The Adamant Group includes all those peaks at the head of Austerity, Adamant and Granite glaciers, which can be reached from their cirques. The group is bounded on the south by Silvertip Pass and Azimuth Notch, Adamant Glacier to the east and the Granite Glacier to the north. Stitt and Austerity creeks mark the eastern boundary of the group. 1:50,000 NTS map sheet Mount Sir Sandford, 82N/12 and Sullivan River, 82N/13. Geology: The Adamant Group is composed entirely of intrusive rocks of the Adamant Batholith. The batholith is formed of two eccentric cores of brown weathering hypersthene-augite monzonite surrounded by an envelope of dark grey, mafic-rich granodiorite. On the inner envelope, the mafic mineral is hornblende while hornblende and biotite are characteristic of the outer envelope. Numerous pegmatite dykes, many carrying tourmaline cut across the batholith. The rock provides exceptional opportunities for climbing. The rock is generally very solid and rock fall is minimal except in local areas of structural weakness most frequently associated with gullies and couloirs. Access: The most frequent access route to the Adamants has been by way of the Swan Creek trail to Fairy Meadow. The turn off for the Kinbasket Lake Forest Road is 47.5km west of Golden or 31.4km east of the Rogers Pass. From the Trans Canada Highway drive north 63.8km to the Swan Creek logging road (Mileage sign 111 from Golden). After a short distance up the logging road, take a spur road leading right (it is best to park at the road junction if you have only a 2 wheel drive vehicle).
    [Show full text]
  • NEW ROUTES with a New Publication Date for the Journal, the Deadline for New Routes Each Year Is 1St August
    NEW ROUTES With a new publication date for the Journal, the deadline for new routes each year is 1st August. Winter routes should still be sent at the end of winter. OUTER ISLES LEWIS, Butt of Lewis, (Rubha Robhanais): Immediately behind the lighthouse is a west facing pillar. Abseil to a narrow ledge from a carefully parked car on the cliff edge (check your handbrake!). Mondeo Man 20m HVS 5a. Charlie Henderson, Robert Durran. 9th July 2008. Climb a short steep crack above the left side of the ledge and then finish more easily rightwards. Trojan Wall (see SMCJ 2005): Access: abseil down the line of Trojan Horse from stakes 20m back (not in situ). It is possible from rocks but not advised as these are poor. The wall can be easily viewed from the cliff-top on the west side of the geo. The wall is split into four distinct sections, from left to right these are; Seaward Buttress, Three Corner Buttress, The Wall and Right End Wall. Right of this the rock is loose and broken. Routes are described from left to right starting at the large chimney in the corner that separates Seaward Buttress from Three Corner Buttress. Seaward Buttress The buttress at the left end of the wall contains Journey over the Sea (2004). Three Corner Buttress: The buttress that extends rightwards from the large chimney in the corner. Gniess Achilles (2004) climbs the left corner of the chimney. Apple of Discord 13m VS 4c. Ross Jones, Andrew Wardle. 6th September 2008. Climb the right corner of the chimney.
    [Show full text]
  • Seasonal Stories for the Nepalese Himalaya 1985-2014
    Seasonal Stories for the Nepalese Himalaya 1985-2014 by Elizabeth Hawley © 1985-2014 by Elizabeth Hawley 3 Contents Spring 1985: A Very Successful Season ......................................................................... 5 Autumn 1985: An Unpropitious Mountaineering Season ............................................ 8 Winter 1985-86: Several First Winter Ascents ........................................................... 11 Spring 1986: A Season of Mixed Results ..................................................................... 14 Autumn 1986: The Himalayan Race Is Won ............................................................... 17 Winter 1986-87: First Winter Ascent of Annapurna I ................................................ 22 Spring 1987: High Tension on Cho Oyu ...................................................................... 25 Autumn 1987: “It Was Either Snowing or Blowing” ................................................... 29 Winter 1987-88: Some Historic Ascents ...................................................................... 33 Spring 1988: A Contrast in Everest Climbing Styles ................................................. 36 Autumn 1988: Dramas in the Highest Himalaya ....................................................... 44 Winter 1988-89: Two Notable Achievements, ............................................................. 51 Spring 1989: A Dramatic Soviet Conquest .................................................................. 56 Autumn 1989: A Tragic Death on Lhotse ...................................................................
    [Show full text]
  • Irish Mountain Log Issue
    Spring 2018 €3.95 UK£3.40 ISSN 0790 8008 Issue 125 Expedition to Patagonia Irish team succeeds on South Avellano Tower The King’s Trail A remote wilderness route in Sweden www.mountaineering.ie Photographs: Pietro Bertera (main photo), Elaine Mullan (walkers in snow), marlenka (girl on road), Matteo Galli (valley view) A word from the edItor ISSUE 125 The Irish Mountain Log is the membership magazine of Mountaineering Ireland. The organisation promotes the interests of hillwalkers and climbers in Ireland. Mountaineering Ireland Welcome Mountaineering Ireland Ltd is a company limited by guarantee and éad míle fáilte! The start of registered in Dublin, No 199053. Registered office: Irish Sport HQ, another year and already we are National Sports Campus, well into it, with spring now well Blanchardstown, Dublin 15, Ireland. upon us. Another year and it Tel: (+353 1) 625 1115 C Fax: (+353 1) 625 1116 brings a new Strategic Plan for our new Strategic Plan will [email protected] Mountaineering Ireland. b❝e the blueprint for www.mountaineering.ie The Draft Strategic Plan 2018-2021 was discussed at the Members’ Forum during mountaineering Ireland’s Hot Rock Climbing Wall our Spring Gathering and AGM in the Glen Tollymore Mountain Centre of Aherlow, Co Tipperary. The plan is development over the next Bryansford, Newcastle County Down, BT33 0PT available for downloading on the website four years. Tel: (+44 28) 4372 5354 and final comments can be submitted [email protected] now before it is finalised and published by the Board of Mountaineering Ireland. submitted are published on pages 6 and 7, Editor: Patrick O’Sullivan Tel: (+353 1) 837 8166 (pm, wknds) This is an important time for your and to my mind they are really quite [email protected] National Governing Body, as the Strategic inspiring.
    [Show full text]