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Summer 2014 Wine Journal

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Summer 2014 Wine Journal THE AMERICAN WINE SOCIETY SUMMER 2014 NIAGARA GRAPES DESSERT PAIRINGS LITTLE RIVER INN AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG WINE JOURNAL : SUMMER : 2014 | 1 The Embassy Suites Charlotte-Concord Golf Resort and Spa 2014 American Wine Society located in Concord, North Carolina is now accepting room reservations. Join us at the 47th AWS National Conference National Conference in the Tar Heel State! Room rate: $139 plus tax, single or double occupancy October 30th through Make your reservations by either: November 1, 2014 • Calling the hotel direct @ 704.455.8200 and speaking to their reservations department. Book Your Room Now! • Calling 1 800 EMBASSY (800.362.2779) • Going online to www.embassysuitesconcord.com • Click on “Make a Reservation” • Enter your arrival and departure dates • Click on “Add special rate codes” • Enter Group Code: AWS • Click on “Check Availability” to make your reservation A one night non-refundable deposit will be required Questions? Contact the AWS National Office, 888.297.9070 or [email protected] : : AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG 2 | WINE JOURNAL SUMMER 2014 AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG features 4 | Jim Rink 16 | Jim Rink Editor’s Message New or Noteworthy As the well-regarded wine writer Leon Mike Grgich — a 2005 AWS Award Adams once observed: “Anyone who of Merit recipient — began his life as tries to make you believe that he a peasant in communist-controlled knows all about wines is obviously Croatia and arrived in the Napa Valley 6 a fake.” In this issue of the Journal, with $32, his life savings, sewn into we’ll assume for a moment that some the sole of his shoes. people do know it all and examine the qualities that make someone a wine 17 | George Medovoy expert versus an expert assessor Little River Inn - A ‘Storied’ and how those qualities come into Mendocino Coast Tradition play when formally assessing your final product. As Mel McKinney will tell you, where there’s smoke, there’s bound to be a 6 | Gene Spaziani good story. In fact, “Where There’s Niagara-A North American Smoke” is the title of the innkeep- Native Grape Variety er’s novel about President John F. Ken- nedy’s plans to round up as many Cuban When Leif Erikson, the adventurous cigars as could be found just ahead of 8 Viking, landed on North American soil the Cuban economic embargo. centuries before Christopher Colum- bus, he was so taken by the growth of 20 | Isabelle Lesschaeve wild grapevines that he gave the New Research Review World its first official name of “Vinland.” This review discusses the tools provided by sensory evaluation 8 | Roger Morris professionals to assist wineries in Authenticity - Circa 1963 challenging their current wine styles and developing new products. Winemakers often talk about their quest for “authenticity” – but authen- 22 | Emily-Jane Hills Offord tic to what time and what place? This Bella Rose - Bed and Breakfast writer sought out six respected in Victorian Elegance 14 vintners who were making wine 50 years ago and asked them what Canandaigua Lake is located in the was “authentic” back then. heart of New York’s picturesque Finger Lakes. The area around the lake 14 | Michael Schafer, CSW is peaceful, relaxing, and truly idyllic Delectable Dessert Pairings cottage country. It is also wine country! With its unique climate and soil charac- Pairing wines with your favorite teristics, vintners have taken advantage desserts can be a challenging propo- of the area since the 1600s. sition. But don’t be deterred, it’s “as easy as pie.” There are some simple 24 | Ellen Landis, CS, CSW guidelines that, when followed, will 21 Wines to Watch enhance your enjoyment of both 17 pairing partners, the dessert and the In her continuing column, Ellen Landis wine. Naturally, the cardinal rule is to selects 21 wines for you to enjoy with drink what you like with whatever any occasion or celebration. dessert you’re eating! 22 AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG WINE JOURNAL : SUMMER : 2014 | 3 editor’sLETTER JIM RINK VOLUME 46 NO. 2 · SUMMER 2014 Published by The American Wine Society, A s the well-regarded wine writer Leon Adams once observed: “Anyone who a non-profit corporation, PO Box 279, Englewood, OH 45322 tries to make you believe that he knows all about wines is obviously a fake.” In this issue of the Journal, we’ll assume for a moment that some people do Single copies $5.00 know it all and examine the qualities that make someone a wine expert versus Copyright © 2014 by AWS, Inc. Reproduction or use of the editorial an expert assessor and how those qualities come into play when formally or pictorial content without written assessing your final product. Toward that end, Bibiana Guerra provides a summary permission is prohibited. of how to optimize your sensory evaluation of wine with an eye toward Library of Congress Class Number: TP544 A46A3 LC Card 76-647900 consumer preferences. Publisher John Hames We will also examine the many variations and themes of wine, starting with Editor Gene Spaziani’s informative piece on Niagara — North America’s vitis labrusca Jim Rink extraordinaire. Did you know that North America was first discovered by Viking Contributing Writers explorers hundreds of years before Columbus and given the rather precocious Jim Rink, Gene Spaziani, Michael Schafer, CSW, but prophetic title of Vinland? George Medovoy, Roger Morris, Isabelle Lesschaeve, On the travel front, George Medovoy weaves a tale of Cuban cigars, dead Emily-Jane Hills Offord, Ellen Landis, CS, CSW Presidents, a Russian invasion and Hollywood stars, all of whom have a Editorial Office connection with Little River Inn on the picturesque Mendocino Coast in Jim Rink California, a wine drinker’s nirvana. 2800 S. Lake Leelanau Drive Lake Leelanau, MI 49653 BECOME A [email protected] We happily present “21 Wines to Watch” by Ellen Landis, CS, CSW. In this is- Unsolicited manuscripts or other sue, our favorite Ellen features mostly California wines, with Colorado, Georgia, information will not be returned unless Washington, Ohio and New Jersey also represented. Wine prices in this issue’s accompanied by return postage. collection range from $13 to $135. Advertising Office PO Box 279 Englewood, OH 45322 Michael Schafer, CSW, continues his theme of food and wine pairing; this time 888-AWS-9070 around it’s wine and dessert (with a nod to chocolate). Roger Morris, new to the (fax) 937.529.7888 executivedirector@ Journal, examines the term “authenticity” and how it applies to the winemaking americanwinesociety.org process. In his article, he interviews six world-famous winemakers to determine Creative | Production what was considered authentic or traditional in 1963. You’ll be surprised how far 404.925.2677 The Blue Guy Creative Remarketing we have come, but is it all good? [email protected] theblueguy.com Stay thirsty, 4 | WINE JOURNAL : SUMMER : 2014 AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG Founder The AWS is the largest consumer based wine education organization in the U.S. A non-profit Konstantin Frank group, the AWS is devoted to educating people on all aspects of wine. Its members include AWS National Officers and Board of Directors wine novices, experts, grape growers, amateur and professional winemakers, chefs, wine President Treasurer Director of appreciators, wine educators, restaurateurs and anyone wanting to learn more about wine. Jane Duralia Walt Rachele Member Services David Falchek Vice President Director of AWS ACTIVITIES Frank Aquilino Educational Services Executive Director Peter J. Cisek John Hames AWS Chapters: Local community groups of AWS members sponsor programs, usually Secretary Director of Competitions Joe Broski monthly. Activities include: tastings, dinners, lectures, picnics, winery tours, winemaking and Joe Dautlick cooking demonstrations, viticulture conferences, amateur wine-judging events, and other Past Presidents wine-related social events. Guests are welcome and novices have nothing to fear. Chapters 1967–70 1992 2004 are self-supporting, so expect a nominal charge to attend a tasting, dinner, etc. If a local Albert W. Laubengayer J. Randy Hurteau Willis L. Parker 1971–72 1993 2005 chapter does not exist in your area, the national office will be glad to assist in forming a Robert A. Dickmann Alcide L. Porrell Tom Castronovo chapter. All that is needed are a few interested wine lovers. Meeting can be informal and 1973–74 1994 2006 Carl W. Damoth George E. Wilson Janice Cobett held in member’ homes or in other settings, such as restaurants and wineries. 1975–76 1995 2007 Jerry S. Miller Kenneth P. Brewer Albert L. Guber, Jr. AWS Regional Events: Organized by regional vice-presidents, include statewide wine 1977–78 1996 2008 judging, contests, special tastings, regional wine conferences, regional picnics and dinners. Kathryn Froelich Raymond A. Hartung, Jr. Raymond A. Hartung, Jr. 1979–1980 1997 2009 Joseph P. Nardone Eugene J. Spaziani Raymond A. Hartung, Jr. AWS National Conference: Held each fall—a two and one-half day national conference and 1981–1982 1998 2010 extravaganza of wine. Attendees become part of a tradition that has drawn wine-lovers, John M. Hasson Gary C. Pavlis Willis L. Parker 1983–1984 1999 2011 winemakers and gastronomes together every November for over 45 years. Prominent Michael A. Farren Gayle M. Darugh Willis L. Parker American and international speakers conduct seminars and lectures on all aspects of wine 1985–1986 2000 2012 appreciation, wine production, grape growing and cuisine. Members experience fine food at Lewis H. France, Jr. Charles E. Hastings Jane M. Duralia 1987–1988 2001 2013 connoisseur luncheons and dinners, tastings of hundreds of wines and royal treatment by Thomas C. Iezzi, Jr. Pamela J. Davey Jane M. Duralia the finest American hotels and resorts. The annual conference brings professionals, serious 1989–1990 2002 Alton L. Long William H. Eisberg amateurs and novices together to discover what is new in wine.
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