The Canning Stock Route

It was a long straight flat drive that continued until we reached Participants Noccundra. Allan and Helen Kidd (trip leader) – LC105 diesel When we got to Cooper Creek, we realised that we had missed a turnoff to the Dig Tree. Malcolm sheepishly admitted having seen Evan Smith – LC Troopy diesel a small sign reading “Dig Tree – 14 km” at an intersection we had Rick Hall – LC 79 series utility diesel passed some 10 km earlier! So back we went and found a very small sign! No wonder we missed it. Following the sign we took the dirt Robert Hamblen and Malcolm Chaseling – LC105 TD road into the Dig Tree for lunch. John and Jenny Malcolm – LC100 TD All afternoon we drove across the Cooper Basin on intermittent Ken Ribbons and Diana Morgan – LC100 petrol dirt/bitumen roads. There were sand hills in the distance covered in greenery. There was very little wildlife and only the odd cattle. We Barry and Dot Slattery – LC100 TD pulled up for overnight camp near Haddon Corner and found some old saltbush and limbs of rivergum that made for an all-night campfire. Day 1 – Monday 20th June Day 4 – Thursday 23rd June Allan & Helen Kidd After 12 months of planning, and weeks of packing, we are finally Evan ready. A trip to Lithgow and a night at a motel has us ready for As the day started, one could see the shadows of bodies moving the trip I have been working towards for the last three years – the in the predawn light, preparing in their own way for the start of Canning Stock Route. another day. Most of the inhabitants of this small community where we stayed were mice. Several tents were invaded and, in the We met up with Rob & Malcolm (The Boys) and Barry and Dot who quest for food, only one electric wire was demolished. There were happened to be staying at the same motel. Then it was down to however several tents that had small holes and even one cask of Maccas to meet John and Jenny for breakfast and we were on our way. wine was emptied. After an uneventful trip to Orange for lunch, we headed on to We then headed to Birdsville where we refuelled and had our Nyngan where we met Rick and Evan. After a quick shop, we went photos taken outside the Birdsville pub. After a snack at the bakery, on to my secret bush camp 45 km north of Nyngan. A good campsite we were ready to roll. We had a good run to the Bedourie caravan and fire made a perfect way to end the first day. Malcolm was given park along with amazing sights of Eyre Creek. the job of being Sergeant at Arms for the trip. Day 5 – Friday 24th June Day 2 – Tuesday 21st June John & Jenny Malcolm Chaseling After a pleasant evening around the campfire, we settled in for a After a pleasant, blissful night’s sleep, we were on our way to Bourke, night camping in the mouse and rat plague at Bedourie. It appears Hungerford, and Thargomindah with John as Tail End Charlie (TEC). that Evan has his own private plague as the biscuits he left out The day looks great with a clear blue sky. We stopped for a roadside overnight are gone in the morning – so we have mice heading for lunch. Following that, John had a rear tyre destroyed on the way to the CSR in Evan’s truck! Thargomindah. Ken and Dianna were waiting for us there with the news that the road to the Dig Tree and Haddon Corner were now After an early rise we departed for Boulia. open. The night was spent at the Thargomindah Caravan Park. Rob and Malcolm took up the TEC position for the day and there was the usual banter over the radio to keep us entertained along Day 3 – Wednesday 22nd June the way. There was plenty of evidence of all the recent rain as water was almost up to the roadside in places. The green vegetation was a Ken & Diana real standout in some places. However, as we neared Boulia, things Leaving our overnight camp, we headed out on the blacktop with dried out and the countryside became more barren. We arrived in a clearing blue sky ahead. There was frost on the tents and there Boulia with all but 18 km of the 190 km on bitumen. were many who took advantage of the hot showers in the camp amenities block.

Vehicles outside the Birdsville pub

30 TLCC NEWS OCTOBER 2011 MAKIN' TRACKS

Morning tea stop

7.3 Guidelines of the volunteer workers policy were 13 – Land Manager’s Report: handed to all committee members, the document KOOLANDILLY will be emailed to all the committee to review and 13.1 September working bee – Work carried out included responses are required by email. erecting a fence and gate near the base of the K2 Moved: R Alexander / Seconded: D Seton track, the fence was damaged overnight, and repaired on the Sunday. The committee discussed the shared 8 – Social Report: access; Rob Alexander is to liaise with the owner of the 8.1 The presents for the children’s Christmas party will be adjoining property. delivered to Andrew Boyd. Rob will contact John Blair about the access issue. 8.2 The Christmas functions will be posted on the forum. The cut off date for bookings will be the November WILLOWGLEN general meeting. 13.2 2 new events have been constructed; all the tracks 8.3 Vanessa Keary will stand in for Kim Allsopp at the have been driven on last weekend. October General Meeting. Sand dunes 13.3 The container has been set up for verification. 13.4 Maintenance work on the drainage system for the main 9 – Membership Report: dam has been carried out. Everyone chose to fuel up at the local servo with the Sergeant approximately 25 km from the Stuart Highway, the convoy had to 9.1 760 financial memberships. 13.5 The hand rail for the disabled toilet will be left until at Arms9.2 cleaning10 new all members. the windscreens – in fear of a fine, nobody give way to the southbound Ghan train. We passed the train shortly criticised his work. afterwards. Furtherafter the along Challenge the Stuart is finished, Highway, Rob the will convoy contact stopped the 9.3 2 possible new members from Canberra at a railway overpasscouncil officer to take to clarifyphotos the as requirementsit passed underneath in this regard us. Most 9.4of theThe group membership viewed renewalthe Min form Min willlights be updated.exhibition The and really enjoyed it, and then armed with coffee (for the addicts) we We arrived inprior Alice to insubmitting time for coffeefor final and approval. cakes to celebrate the president to proof read. birthdays. The vehicles were fuelled and the fridges were filled; departed for the Donohue Highway. Not long after setting off, we 14 – Vice President’s Report: had to9.5 stop The because show Allan’s price willleft swingrun till arm October on the 13. wheel carrier was ready for Rainbow Valley. Ken and Diana left us to get access to a dentist 14.1 as Diana There had was a achipped Sub Committee tooth from meeting eating for a thechocolate 40th a 10swinging – Promotions in the breeze. Officer’s It turned Report: out to be a broken locking plate – couple of daysAnniversary prior. After lastcollecting night, 72wood members on the wayhave in, paid, we arrived120 are poor 10.1welding. There A ratchet are 30 strapx A4 flyersdid the left job over. of securing the arm. After a short distance, we stopped for lunch and a 30-minute lunch break at Rainbow Valley.expected. 11saw – us4WD underway Activities again Coordinator’s with approximately Report: 200 km to go for the 14.2 There is a working bee at Willowglen this weekend. Day 8 – Monday 27th June day. About11.1 Noan hournew tripslater, Allan’s RHS swing arm failed in the same 14.3 The sponsors are in place for the Challenge. way as11.2 the LHS. The FunkhanaA second ratchet event is strap planned and Allanfor May was 22 beginning & 23, 2010 to 14.4 There areDay raffle 9 prizes – Tuesday to the value of 28th $3,500.00 June and question hisand choice has ofbeen rear posted bars. on the Forum, with a call for Lay days at thecompetition MacDonnell prizes Range to Holidaythe value Park of $13,000.00in Alice Springs. Travel on the Donohue was generally quite good and we were able to volunteers. There15 – wasGeneral some Business limited sight from seeing the Committee: but most of the group appeared maintain good speeds. A pleasant roadside camp finished off the day. 11.3 A New Member’s trip is planned for November 21. to be attending15.1 A letter to resupplying, has been sent washing, to the refining church inpacking regard systems, to the 12 – Education Coordinator’sDay 6 – Report:Saturday 25th June and any mechanicalaudio visual issues. system. John & Jenny managed to get a new tyre, Allan & Helen had minor surgery on a diff breather that was 12.1 A request for course presenters has been made. 15.2 Carl asked about the December committee meeting Rob leaking oil, and Ken & Diana decided to err on the side of caution 12.2 Courses – St Johns First Aid to be booked. and the January general meeting. We woke to Sandan iconic driving Aussie at end sunrise. of October, Allan had and the almost fire going booked as the and replace a dodgy alternator before leaving. Diana also managed happy campers roused from their sleep. We were on the road early to find15.3 a dentist The and secretary had her will tooth send repaired. out the list of annual awards to out. with Ken as TEC and quickly entered the Northern Territory. Along committee members. the way,12.3 we Feed saw back an overturned forms have cattlecome backtruck fromtrailer. the Also last spottedDriver MeetingDay closed: 10 10.55pm – Wednesday 29th June Training. was our fearless leader with a pigeon jammed in the bull bar. We Barry (signed)& Dot M. Murphy – President stopped for the night at the Gem Tree caravan park that is only 149 With 3500(signed) km behindC. Mawbey us, there – Secretary was excitement as we set out from km from Alice. Gem Tree is a lovely spot with shady campsites and Alice towards the CSR. John & Jenny were TEC. We headed up the warm showers. Many took the opportunity to rest or repack. Stuart Hwy before turning left and heading northwest along the Day 7 – Sunday 26th June Tanami Track. We were travelling to Renahans Bore, about 450 km from Alice, with the first 190 km sealed and then variations between Rick dirt and blacktop. As we turned onto the Tanami you can tell the area It was a very cold morning – zero degrees. John & Jenny had a cook- has benefitedBusiness from rain with plenty of grass Directory and good-sized bush. up of bacon and eggs and everyone congratulated Barry and Diana We travelled along with the MacDonnell Ranges and the West on their birthdays before we aired up and continued on to Alice. At MacDonnell National Park on the LHS and the Burt Plain on the RHS.

TLCC NEWS OCTOBER 2011 31 TLCC NEWS DECEMBER 2009 65

TLCC_Text_December09.indd 65 26/11/09 6:38 AM John preparing camp ovens Corrugations on the CSR at Stretch Lagoon

We stopped for morning tea at Tilmouth Roadhouse. Wimbrandt Communication was lost with Rick when his antenna fell off, however Rock was on the opposite side just before it and looking like a very he was able to fix it temporarily so communication was restored. small version of Uluru. With great excitement, Dot said she had sighted a dingo. Some Lunch was on a side track near Yuendumu. Rick pointed out that of the group wanted to take a photo of the iconic Rabbit Flat the Yuendumu community provided the “mechanics” for “The Bush roadhouse, but unfortunately the road has been closed. Mechanics” show on the ABC. We stopped for morning tea at the side of the road. Evan discovered About 50 km northeast of Yuendumu there was a subtle change in a leaking fuel tank and decided he would look at it at our evening scenery with heavy vegetation, hillier land, and with a number of camp at Wolfe Creek. Evan also discovered a loose nut and had to small, but presumably abandoned, silver mines. A further 30 km on, deal with comments about the nut behind the wheel. We crossed it was back to flat grassy landscapes with lots of termite mounds. into WA at 1140 and stopped for lunch near the junction of the Halls During the afternoon Allan spoke to Ken & Diana on the HF radio Creek Rd and the road to Balgo & Yagga Yagga. and found that they were 70 km behind us. Arriving at Wolfe Creek, we set up camp and many people did the At Chilla Well, about 127 km further on from Yuendumu, we had walk up to the top of the crater. Evan discovered the fuel leak was entered the Central Desert and were travelling along the most more serious than he thought and there was a 5 cm star shaped eastern reaches of the Great Sandy Desert. crack in the tank. On contacting VKS-737 Alice Springs on the HF radio, we found that welding help was not available at Billiluna so Finally we arrived at Renahans Bore. The dirt roads were corrugated Evan decided he would fix the crack with steel putty and buy the but not punishingly so. We made good time sitting on 90-100 km/h. equivalent capacity of jerry cans for fuel to continue the trip. There were a few road trains and a number of dead cattle to keep you alert. Throughout the day, the variety and colour of wildflowers changed as we headed to Wolfe Creek. Day 11 – Thursday 30th June Day 12 – Friday 1st July Helen & Allan After the unsettling experience of a three-trailer fuel road train Malcolm arriving in our camping area at some unknown time in the night, It was a warm night, and we slept well after viewing the movie Wolf Creek. We rolled out of camp with Rick as TEC. The day is cloudy and we went back to sleep to get up again in the pre-dawn to prepare cool but very pleasant. We stopped at the first gate for wood and for our trip to Wolfe Creek. The most exciting moment for the group Ken’s chainsaw worked well. Banter continued over the radio as all at breakfast time was the campfire christening of Dot’s virginal billy. of the group are in a great mood This event had been long awaited but obviously the moment was just right this morning. The trip to Billiluna (42 km) down the Tanami was soft and uneventful. After arriving and refuelling (which took several hours As we left the Bore, Evan was TEC and he had been looking forward for the seven vehicles) we also purchased food. Diesel fuel cost to experience this important duty. The beautiful morning was $2.60 a litre. We then arrived at Stretch Lagoon, which was a great enhanced by driving on an unexpected stretch of blacktop and the spot. We all spent the afternoon relaxing and setting up camp. sighting of a camel. Much banter went back and forth between the Some went for a swim in the lagoon. Various visitors from the local cars in relation to the beauty of the camel and the number of humps.

34 TLCC NEWS OCTOBER 2011 MAKIN' TRACKS

Vehicles at Breaden Pools community passed by and we now have an invitation to the local abundance of termite mounds. The corrugations became more football Aussie rules match tomorrow between Halls Creek and aggressive, so our leader stepped up our speed to 60 km/h, which Billiluna. We started cooking for our communal dinner of roast pork made for a much better ride. Well 50 was in poor state but on this and chicken, and John did a great job of the camp ovens. trip, no doubt there will be a lot like it. So on to Well 49 where we have now camped for the night. This is a pleasant spot with water in Day 13 – Saturday 2nd July the well that can be obtained by lowering a bucket about 15 metres. Ken & Diana The beasts have settled their work done for the day. Their wheel Today was a “lay day” on the banks of Stretch Lagoon just a relatively arches revealing their day’s work, with grease and dust showing short drive out of Billiluna. its presence that no deodorant could fix. Rested tonight, they’ll be We awoke to the bush orchestra and a magnificent water view. ready in the morning light once again. There was plenty of room for us to spread out, each having a unique Day 15 – Monday 4th July water view. There was plenty of birdlife that fed regularly on the fish in the lagoon, probably small gudgeon, and there were a couple John & Jenny of eagle nests spotted across the lagoon. There was much packing, After enjoying a cooler night than the last few, everyone was out of unpacking, and reorganising by all with the odd break to eat the bed by 0600 for the planned 0800 departure. fresh fruit acquired yesterday at our petrol stop in Billiluna. Most With everyone fed, the packed vehicles sprung into action with the drivers did necessary maintenance to their vehicles. Late afternoon exception of Rob’s iron camel. He fired it up then just as quickly shut saw many of us have a refreshing swim in the lagoon. All in all, a it down – no instruments! Fortunately, it turned out to be nothing great start to the Canning – bring it on! more than a blown fuse, and with the fuse replaced, it then needed a jump-start to get going. Rob was immediately in fear of receiving Day 14 – Sunday 3rd July the “rusty nut” award for the day. Evan You could hear the leather of the harness straining as the massive Allan is the proud recipient of the beasts became impatient to go. The controlling power of their Rusty Nut Award for the day masters held them to order. The wheels began to scratch their tread in the soft sand; feeling for grip and ready to power on command. One bull-bar was against a large tree testing its new bolts – they held. A key turned; an electrical bolt of 12 volts spurred into the bowels within the monster. A belch of smoke – a cough – dead silence! Again the power; a roar as the beast gave in and submitted his pistons to the will of his master. Another fired, then another, we were ready to roll. Our leader surveyed his motley crew, swore lightly under his breath, and with arm in the air pulled two “what-evers” from the sky. We rolled away from our home of the last two days by the lagoon and ambled the short distance to the main track. There we were ready. The radio burst into life and seven massive monsters took to the road. Seven right feet hit the pedals to the floor and we were gone. A cloud of a billowing dust, the sun sneezed, the Canning cowboys were moving on. Sunday, July 3, 2011 had begun. We headed in a south-westerly direction having to skirt several small areas of rainwater that had blocked the road temporarily. To Well 50 we were going (our first well) and it was not too far away. The road was mainly that reddish sand with a varied degree of rough and smooth to good. Well 50 had a bypass to it off the main track that we took and was probably used in wet weather. On arrival, there was a turning windmill but pumping only air. It was fascinating to imagine what the earlier years would have been like. After a quick morning tea, we moved on to Well 50. The area was mainly Spinifex with an TLCC NEWS OCTOBER 2011 35 MAKIN' TRACKS

While all this was going on, Rick found a plaque on a tree marking John looking for aboriginal Camp 57 for the Sole Camel Transcontinental Trek sometime in the art near Gravity Lake 1960’s. We were finally up and away with Barry and Dot as TEC. The track started out tight through the scrub with copious pin-striping taking place. The track surface was reasonably soft with rocky sections and washaways a plenty. At least the punishing vibrations of yesterday were not evident. The corrugations we encountered now only minor by comparison. Rob became very patriotic about the 4th of July, particularly as Diana gave a rendition of the National Anthem from the “good old U.S. of A.” After visiting Well 48, which has long been abandoned, we headed for the Breaden Pools for morning tea. The track into the pools was rough and narrow and went in all directions. After morning tea we took a walk to the pools and then some of us also took a walk to Godfrey Tank and successfully searched for the sputter then a roar. Spent fumes filled the by now lifeless camp. The explorers’ initials engraved into the rock. only remaining memories are our footprints and a cold fire pit. We travelled across a large plain of Spinifex with the grass up to With Rick as TEC, we rumble south to Well 45. Along the way on the bonnet height on both sides of the road. On our way to Well 47 we track we passed a large salt plain. The road was good with minimal all took on the challenge of a short but steep hill climb; all of us pin striping, corrugations and small dunes. It was a nice drive that is with the exception of our fearless leader. It was a bit of fun to start the day. Well 45 was abandoned and disused. The run to enjoyed by those of us who took up the challenge. Gravity Lakes was rolling dunes with the variable spaces between After more pin striping, and a few more severe corrugations, we the dunes filled with mild to medium levels of corrugations. While arrived at Well 47 for a lunch break. Well 47 is also abandoned with stopped for morning tea, we crawled through the rock faces viewing little evidence of a well other than a few rusty buckets and a rusty the aboriginal art; this was a lovely spot. trough. Evan has also discovered that he had a broken drive bolt on The road into Well 44 was a combination of rolling dunes, twists, his air conditioning; no major drama but it was later discovered that and turns with medium level corrugations between the dunes - the bearing on the idler pulley had seized – another contender for overall delightful! We arrive at Well 43 after a romp through many the rusty nut award. dunes with some serious corrugations between them. Travelling from Well 47 to Well 46, we encountered several sand The team settled into lunch and began the process of nesting for dunes that were fun, though they did not present the same the night. The tents are up, the sleeping bags unrolled, vehicles are challenge as those on the Simpson. checked, and people are starting to relax. There was some banter about the performance of the various cars over the dunes with the general consensus that the three IFS cruisers with the auto transmissions had the least problems Damage report for the day (I’ve been informed that not everyone agreed! – Ed). This excited the Sergeant at Arms. Allan Left wheel carrier arm came loose and swung out during the afternoon with the resulting loss of the We arrived at Well 46 and set up camp. There was activity everywhere; rear licence plate thereby running an illegal vehicle. Barry and Rob went hooning up and down the track looking for a noise in Barry’s car, and Rick was looking out for dingos. Rob Rear cargo barrier came loose, bolts to be tightened.

Day 16 – Tuesday 5th July Evan Fuel tank take number three, tank is out and being Rob repaired again. Morning breaks, the sights, sounds and smells of the camp begin to stir. A comfortable routine of tearing down camp for the day’s Barry & Knocking continues, search continues for a loose nut journey ensures we part camp before time. Allan continues his Dot relentless flogging of the team to ensure we adhere to our set timetable. All beasts of steel, oil, and rubber come to life with a To be continued …

36 TLCC NEWS OCTOBER 2011 The Canning Stock Route

The adventure continues … Participants One of the destroyed shocks Allan and Helen Kidd (trip leader) – LC105 diesel Evan Smith – LC Troopy diesel Rick Hall – LC 79 series utility diesel Robert Hamblen and Malcolm Chaseling – LC105 TD John and Jenny Malcolm – LC100 TD Ken Ribbons and Diana Morgan – LC100 petrol Barry and Dot Slattery – LC100 TD

Day 18 – Thursday 7th July Barry & Dot Day 17 – Wednesday 6th July Ken and Diana discovered some aboriginal rock art in a small cave nearby. There was a sombre mood in the morning as a few had braved Rick the winds the night before to listen to the State of Origin on the HF We awoke at Well 45 to a solo performer of the bush orchestra. radio – just to hear the Blues go down. Another typical CSR morning with clear skies and a cool breeze to greet us. As the sun came up, the flies started to arrive. Pack- Well we have just ticked over 5000 km with Well 33 being our ups, breakfast, and vehicle check up before imminent departure destination for the day, and we notice that the weather is becoming to a final destination yet to be decided. We bade farewell to our cooler. We headed off with John and Jenny as TEC. northbound visitor, Greg from Camden. Greg was known to a The first section was similar to the previous day, sand dunes close few of our group after meeting him on a Victorian High Country together with moderate to medium corrugations. We were certainly trip earlier this year. not alone. We passed a northbound group, and a seven-car convoy The trip across the dunes and the closeness of the scrubby from the Toyota Land Cruiser Club of South Australia was reported to vegetation led to Allan losing the top of his sand flag, however be heading our way. this was recovered by Evan and replaced during our morning Near Well 37, we came across a lovely group of desert oaks. Apart from tea break. We came to an open plain that led to Guli Lake. The the well, there were the graves of Thompson and Chinaman, together road across Guli Lake was an easy drive. After leaving Well 42, with the McLennan’s. Other attractions were budgies and zebra finches. the dunes and corrugations continued. Car One had stopped It was at this stage that John and Jenny realised some rear brake pads on top of a dune, reversed down for second attempt, then were well down on one side. As we left we noticed there were some succeeded without problem. Other travellers were at Well 41 lovely little camping areas close by on the south side. The track was still when we arrived for morning tea. Well 41 had a large stand of sand dunes – up, down, over, and along the top of dunes. Overall, we dead timber in the surrounding vicinity, so wood was gathered had a very pleasant drive to Well 36 without corrugations though Evan for the night’s fire. We arrived at Well 40 and photos were taken managed to wipe out his side mirror. of Tobin’s grave (600 metres from well). After leaving Well 40, Things started to happen once we left Well 35. The country was flat and we travelled on the vast Lake Tobin before we came to more the corrugations were severe. Ken destroyed a front shock absorber, so dunes, and then Well 39 where a dingo was sighted on arrival. with Johns help, it was replaced on the track. The rest of the group, being Zebra finches had taken up residence in the bushes adjacent some way ahead at the turn off to Well 34, decided to have lunch since to the well. We travelled to Well 38 but, as it was not a suitable we were told no additional help was needed. Rob then discovered that campsite, we made the decision to continue on to Well 37. A the fitting holding the fuel filter bracket was cracked and a temporary good camp spot was found 10 km from Well 38 near the rock repair was made. We were all finally together again and headed off to outcrop called Wandurba Rockhole. The day was highlighted Well 34. This 4.5 km section was ok, slow through winding soft sand, with the zigzagging between dunes; you were forever turning but with minimal corrugations. We then started the final section for the back from whence you came. Overall it was an incident free day. day with everyone a little more tentative with their vehicles. We were down to 15-25 km/h with the three IFS trailing the group.

36 TLCC NEWS DECEMBER 2011 Checking out well 37 MAKIN' TRACKS

It was a mixed day with pleasant scenery at first, then challenging Day 22 – Monday 11th July road conditions at the end. There was quite a bit of traffic and a lot of radio chatter. This was one of our longer days however we only Ken & Diana covered about 75 km. The campsite was worth it, with lovely clean At 0915, the HF radio buzzed with productive talk between VKS-737 water available. at Derby and Allan, our trip leader, enabling him to order new rear shock absorbers in Wiluna for when we arrive there in a few days Day 19 – Friday 8th July Rick working on his We spent the day fuelling up (diesel $3.20/L), checking vehicles, air compressor washing, and buying supplies. Some people took advantage of the $5 shower at the Kunawarritji community. Rick’s compressor started intermittently playing up and some time was spent trying to track down the problem. John did some emergency work on his brake, finally deciding to remove the pads and to cut off the supply of brake fluid to the calliper. Rick’s air drill was used to drill a new hole in Allan’s bull bar and the sand flag was moved to a less exposed position. Day 20 – Saturday 9th July Helen & Allan time. VKS relayed details of car make and model to the workshop Some of the group went to the Kunawarritji for last minute supplies, to enable the correct parts to be available. It is very handy to have so we met again at the junction of the Gary Highway and the CSR. a HF radio out here. The road was like a four lane highway up to the community. After that, it reverted to the usual single-track road. Continuing on, the We took a sidetrack around the “pink lake” which contained the road was a combination of corrugations, good left and right side submerged remains of Well 25. tracks, and smooth sand. We eventually found Well 32. As we drove to Well 24, the road was mainly soft sand with mild As the group was widespread due to road conditions and dust, we corrugations. We kept the speed down, avoiding a rough trip for waited until all were present, and then drove to Well 31 through a those already damaged, and avoiding any further breakdowns few sand hills and mild corrugations. Morning tea at Well 31 was or damage. Morning tea was at Well 24, which had plenty of amongst beautiful large gum trees, shade, and a chorus from the water – overflowing even! We then proceeded to Well 23 and the local birdlife. Capricorn Roadhouse fuel dump that was some 800 to 900 metres up a sidetrack. After inspecting full fuel drums marked for other The road from Well 31 to Well 30 was a combination of corrugations, travellers, we went on to Georgia Bore. smooth sand, and rocky outcrops so travel was quite slow. Lunch was in a shady spot at Well 30. In 1990, a mineral exploration company set up camp at the junction of Talawana Track and the CSR to evaluate the area for mineral Throughout the day, Rob had trouble with the electrics and Allan, deposits. The tradition in the company was to name camps after on arrival at our overnight camp at Thring Rock, discovered both the most recently born child of those working on the project. In this rear shock absorbers were destroyed. case the most newly born daughter of the senior geologist gave her Day 21 – Sunday 10th July name to the new camp – Georgia Camp. A bore was drilled to supply Georgia Camp with a good water supply that was both plentiful and Malcolm The snorting fire-breathing beasts were still suffering from Saturday’s trip. Everyone was up early (0600) to work on Rob’s fuse problem and Allan’s shock absorber replacements. After breakfast, all hands were on deck. By 0930, all work was complete on the shocks however Rob’s fuse problem still a question mark. The weather overnight was cool with some light rain. We rolled out of Thring Rock into a cloudy cool day on our way to Well 24 with Ken as TEC. Our arrival at Well 29 was greeted by camels on the sand dunes, along with others on their way to Well 28 where we stopped for morning tea. The track was good with some corrugations. Lunch was at Well 27, keeping away from the large King Brown that had made its home next to the well, and then we continued on to Well 26. There was no camping space available as the well was being reconstructed, so we moved on to Well 25 – to a Replacing the broken shocks great spot with lake views.

Canning Stock Route leaving Kunawarritji TLCC NEWS DECEMBER 2011 37 MAKIN' TRACKS

fresh. In 1991, the camp had completed its purpose. The exploration company, knowing the scarcity of water in this region, made the decision to equip the bore with a hand pump so that all travelling in this region could make use of this water resource. Day 23 – Tuesday 12th July Lay day Day 24 – Wednesday 13th July Evan Yesterday was our first wet day. During the morning, the skies cleared enough for us to pack up the wet tents in the drier conditions. The beasts were dripping with sweat in anticipation of the sweet diesel ahead and our team is all fired up. Our leader punches two have been thousands of them! The rock formations at Durba are holes in the sky and we headed to Well 21. It was basically slow very similar to Diebil Hills. going; both Well 21 and 20 had no special appeal however we took We settled into a lovely campsite and looked forward to tomorrows photos, probably never to be seen again. rest day. On the road between these wells, we encountered many budgies. There may have been up to 2000 birds with flocks of 700 to 800 Day 26 – Thursday 15th July flying around the vehicles. Then there were three camels trotting on Lay day the road ahead of Allan. It was quite a distance before they left the road for quieter times. They seemed quite accustomed to vehicles. Day 27 – Saturday 16th July We passed Lake Disappointment, which was a disappointment and Rob for the first time mud was experienced in this area, luckily for only a As the rising sun caresses the cocoons of nylon, canvas, and steel, short distance but enough to slow down the vehicles. the troop of TLCC emerge (aka Iron Camels) and we are on the road We decided not to continue to Well 19 as a nice campsite was again. We missed Well 17 as we were too busy listening to the radio already spotted amongst the desert oaks. Wood had been gathered, antics of another group who were less than a cohesive team (yes so another nice fire tonight with tales and lies to be told. There were – the same ones we heard on the way in). We stretch our legs at no vehicle dramas today. Canning’s Cairn and took a few photos; then it was on to Well 16 for morning tea. Day 25 – Thursday 14th July The road from Durba Springs was a good mix of dunes, mud, rock John & Jenny outcroppings and small corrugations. After stopping at Rankin’s We departed with Barry and Dot as TEC. Not long after our Trolley, the road was a mix of dunes and corrugations. There was a departure we reached Savory Creek and drove along the creek to rocky creek bed to cross that added some fun to the drive. select a suitable crossing point. A couple of us tasted the water and The road into Well 15 had some hard corrugations. We left Well it was just as described – extremely salty! The crossing was easy 15 with the hopeful rumour that the road between 15 and 9 had with a reasonable footing under a soft surface. After the crossing been recently graded – unfortunately it was only a rumour. The we headed south with the track sandy but still firm from the recent track between 15 and 14 was heavily corrugated with evidence rain. Along the way, we passed several nice campsites among the of deep mud holes from the recent rains. So far, the day has been Desert Oaks. warm and clear. Lunch was at Well 14. Well 13 was another ruined We stopped for morning tea at Well 19 and, after leaving, we were well, the road from 13 to12 was filled with corrugations, dunes and advised of some muddy rutted section to come. They proved to be rock outcroppings. Well 12 was our stop for the night and was a easy but fun at the same time. welcome finish to a tough day that offered little variety in scenery At 1005 we crossed the tropic of Capricorn and immediately felt and endless corrugations. cooler. Day 28 – Sunday 17th July The next stop was Onegunyah Water Hole for some photos before proceeding to Well 18 for a quick photo shoot. After that, it was on Rick to Diebil Hills and Diebil Spring for lunch. On this section we were We awoke to a beautiful sunny Sunday morning. Everything was treated to some spectacular scenery. The track to Durba Springs was covered in a heavy dew making packing up a little slower. Several windy and very rocky in places. As we approached Durba Springs, groups walked the 18 metres to view and photograph the well that another group who were trying to find the place entertained us; was in a restored state. there were too many chiefs, no Indians, and no navigators. On the Small dunes and minor corrugations greeted us till Lake Aerodrome. way in there were very large flocks of budgies where there must We skirted the vast lake on a relatively smooth track and photos were

Lunch stop beside ruined Well 21 Bush camp afternoon on the Gunbarrel Highway TLCC NEWS AGUST 2011 41 MAKIN' TRACKS

Camp ovens at Stretch Lagoon

Maintained section of the Gunbarrel Highway taken from a dune at the southern end of the lake. We passed about with speeds up to 45 km/h through nice stands of blue mulga half a dozen pedestrians about two kilometres from their vehicles and bushes. We were surprised to see the springs were more of a lagoon; then continued on to Well 11 for morning tea. The country became the water was clear and appeared to be good, although not flowing. flatter, the distance between the dunes became greater, and the dunes This section of track was a significant deviation from some maps also became smaller. The one constant however are the corrugations. showing the CSR. After leaving, we were back on the original CSR Well 10 was also in a ruined condition. The country consisted of track. After passing through another gate we watched each other rocky hills on the way to Well 9 with no sand hills crossed. This well negotiate a fairly deep creek crossing. The drive to Well 4A was OK, has been restored. An audit of damages and repairs encountered so running across creek beds and washouts but devoid of corrugations far on the trip was carried out on the way to Well 8. The longer we – it was dry but could have been challenging after the recent rain. thought about it, the more failures were remembered. The track was We crossed Kennedy Creek and onto flood plains or clay plains through rocky hills with sandy washouts and the usual corrugations. and came to, and then skirted, Lake Nabberu. This road was quite When we arrived at Well 7 there was already a group of travellers and rocky and we stopped for lunch on the roadside. After travelling conversations started up. Wood was collected after we left Well 7 and west along the lake, we turned south, traversing dry lakebeds. we continued on to Pierre Springs (Well 6). The trip was easy but slow The road turned from gravel, to stones, to sandy with corrugations due to scrub encroaching on the track, washouts, and rocky sections. as we made our way to the ruined Well 3A. The last stretch to the This is a lovely spot with plenty of shade, good water, and camping. partly restored Well 3 again had scatterings of mild to moderate We were lucky enough to have the whole place to ourselves. corrugations with plenty of dry creek crossings. This area looked particularly arid. Day 29 – Monday 18th July Barry & Dot Camels near Surveyor General’s Corner We left the good campsite under the Ghost Gums on a perfect morning. Rick was TEC and we plan to camp at Well 3 this evening. We sighted grass trees for the first time. There were mixed driving conditions with patches of flat sandy areas following watercourses, and small amounts of mild to medium corrugations. Well 5 had been restored and was one of the deepest. The track between Well’s 5 and 4 was mixed again – rocky in parts, traversing waterways, and going through a few soaks. Fortunately most of the muddy areas had dried out. Malcolm spotted the first emu on this part of the trip. After passing through a gate, we arrived at Well 4B, which was in ruins. The track to Windich Springs was a comparative speedway,

TLCC NEWS DECEMBER 2011 43 MAKIN' TRACKS

Day 30 – Tuesday 19th July We travelled 11 km to the Gunbarrel Laager Caravan Park for a two-night stay – a welcome break, hard earned after the trials and Helen & Allan isolation of the CSR. As usual, Allan was awake before dawn and dressed for the day. Although we completed it, the CSR had won (CSR 7 and TLCC 0). No There was some noise as twigs were prepared to start the fire that vehicle is unscathed! was then lit ready for the multitude of billy’s to be boiled. Before long, a faint rosy glow painted the horizon and the camp started to Allan, Malcolm, Helen, Rob, stir. This was it – one “last hill” to climb before we could say we have Dot, Barry, Dot, John, and finished the Canning. Rick at Surveyor General’s Corner The rest of the camp awoke to another beautiful day with the birds calling and a promise of blue skies. The road to Well 2A was a combination of rocky outcrops, rocky surfaces, washaways, corrugations and the occasional smooth surface. At times, we were driving at 8 km/h. Morning tea was taken at 2A and we found that the well was dug out of solid rock. The first part of the road to Well 2 was smooth and a pleasure to drive but it then reverted to the usual surfaces we were familiar with. We arrived at Well 2 for a quick photo stop. One more section of rough road and then photos were taken at the CSR sign marking the end of the track (or the start for people travelling north). It was now a wide smooth surface, although still a gravel road, to Wiluna. We turned right to take the road to North Pool and arrived there for a quick look around and lunch. We then travelled to Well 1 and took the last photos of the wells of the CSR. We had done it! Following this, the group split up to do whatever they needed to do – fuel (diesel at $1.999/L), food, and “fun” in Wiluna.

44 TLCC NEWS DECEMBER 2011 MAKIN' TRACKS

Bush camp beside the CSR The group at the end of the CSR

Damage & Equipment Failure Report Fuel consumption on the CSR for the two sections Pre CSR Billiluna to Kunawarritji John disintegrated tyre; drove over sunglasses Kunawarritji to Wiluna LC105 manual 141 L 198 L Ken faulty alternator LC 100 TD auto 129 L 165 L Evan split fuel tank LC 100 TD auto 137 L 190 L Allan loose diff breather; broken wheel carrier locking LC105 TD manual 134 L 190 L brackets; bull-bar bolts stripped LC 79 series 131 L 190 L Rob adjust fan belts CSR Rick antenna broken; compressor intermittent fault

Barry ongoing clunking noise

Allan rear number plate ripped off; 2 rear shock absorbers destroyed; radiator grill cracked Rob blown instrument fuse x 12 times; fuel filter mount ripped from firewall; loose cargo barrier; cracked front window

Evan oil pressure switch; idler pulley; split fuel tank Rob, Malcolm, and John cannibalising a wreck repaired multiple times; cracked front window; side mirror ripped off; front wheel Other Stats John rear brake pad disintegrated (ran on remaining Number of North bound vehicles counted on the CSR in 19 3 brakes); shower unit broken mount; 2 broken days: 235 battery-mounting terminals Number of Westward bound vehicles counted on the Gunbarrel in 3 days: 9 (day 2, no vehicles seen) Ken front shock absorber disintegrated; mobile phone Number of times Allan changed gear in 1 hour on the CSR: over antenna ripped off a hundred

On top of Mt Beadell

Lunch stop at Diebil Hills TLCC NEWS DECEMBER 2011 47