kRCH, 1915. PRICE, 25 CENTS A COPY $2.00 A YEAR 0.11r itib-Parifir ftlagaztur

T IrNT■TrNi T TT T T HAWAII AT THE -CROSSROADS .OF THE PACIFIC.

From -San Francisco and from Van- On the Big Island of Hawaii, not 24 couver there are palatial ocean steamers to hours by steamer, train and auto from Honolulu, the fares being from $60 one Honolulu, is Earth's greatest and safest way and $110 round trip, up. active volcano—Kilauea. From Vancouver the Union Steamship On the Island of Maui is Earth's great- Co. sends its great steamers every fourth est extinct crater—Haleakala—eighteen week to Fiji, New Zealand and Australia hours from Honolulu. You may stand on via Honolulu, and vice versa. From San its brink 10,000 feet above sea level. Francisco every fourth week the Oceanic On the Island of Kauai, a night's sail Co. sends its vessels to Samoa and Sydney from Honolulu, are canyons as varied in via Honolulu. Every eight days the Pa- color and sublime in effect as any in the cific Mail and the Toyo Kisen Kaisha world. send their floating palaces from San Fran- Six miles from Honolulu by splendid cisco to Japan, China and the Philippines auto road is the famous Nuuanu Pali, or via Hawaii, and every week the Matson precipice; an ascent and a drop of 1200 Co. or the Oceanic .S. S. Co. sends one of feet, and on either side of the road, cloud- their splendid ferry boats from San Fran- piercing mountains. cisco to Honolulu. Three miles from the steamer by electric It is seen at a glance that Hawaii is the tram is Waikiki, the home of the surf- crossroads of the Pacific. board rider. Hawaii has probably in a given area For further information regarding the more scenic wonders to offer the tourist Hawaiian Islands, write to or call at the and visitor than has any equal area of the Hawaiian Promotion Committee rooms in world's surface. the Alexander Young Hotel Building. V' 1(1 b-Parifir fliagazittr CONDUCTED BY ALEXANDER HUME FORD VOLUME IX HOWARD M. BALLOU, Associate Editor. NUMBER 3 CONTENTS FOR M !ARCH. 1915.

• • OUR ART GALLERY OF THE .PACIFIC. + i. • + A SOUTH PACIFIC GRANARY & GARDEN - - 217 + * By Hon. W. A. Holman (Premier of New South Wales.) THE STORY OF HAWAII 225 By Ex-Queen Liliuokalani AMONG THE PINES AND PAGANS - 231 By Reginald M. Clutterbuck NEW ZEALAND MOUNTAIN CLIMBING - 241 By S. Turner, F. R. G. S. - EXPLORING A VOLCANO 249 By Jack Walker (The Youngest Guide in Hawaii.) THE LIFE OF THE JAPANESE -STUDENT - 255 By Kiyoshi Sokamoto CANOEING IN THE BIG CANAL - - - 259 By George B. Thayer THE CHINESE IN HAWAII 263 By George Charles Hull THE ADELAIDE WAY 269 By Joseph B. Stickney IN OLD KOREA 273 By Kirk S. Gilbert THE VENGEANCE OF THE RAIN GOD - - 277 By May Rothwell MOTORING IN MALAYA 283 By J. H. M. Robson MY DIARY OF CHRISTMAS ISLAND - - - 289 By Rev. Emmanuel Rougier A TROPICAL MOUNTAIN PARK - - - - 294 + o By Judge Philip L. Weaver + ••;.• + + 0. • ENCYCLOPEDIA OF HAWAII AND THE PACIFIC.

Otle filibilarifir Magazine Published by ALEXANDER HUME FORD, Honolulu, T. H. Printed by the Honolulu Star-Bulletin, Ltd. Yearly subscriptions in the United States and possessions, $2.00 in advance. Canada and Mexico, $2.50. For all foreign countries, $3.00. Single copies, 25c. Entered as srcond-claw matter at the Honolulu Postoffice. Permission is given to republish articles from t:.e Mid-Pacific Magazine when credit is given There is a charm to the Australian bush or forests that grips and holds and thrills. Men spend their lives in the bush, others long for their annual .holidays that they may return once more to the glory of Australian bush life. Everywhere in the mountains of the Hawaiian Islands are falls and cas- cades, even in the city of Honolulu there are famous waterfalls known by tradition and childhood memory to the older generation of Hawaiians. Some of these, a moment's walk from the car, are not generally known.

See page 225. In the Philippines it is the native who is the road builder, and he does his work well, whether by barrow on the firm, hard earth, or when clinging like a fly to the edge of the precipice, along the face of which he is to cut and build a boulevard for motorists.

See page 231. In New Zealand the sport of sports .is that of conquering the mountain tops. &eel ywhere in New Zealand there are mountains, some of them as high and more inaccessible than any of the Swiss dips, yet each year another of these New Zea- land peaks is conquered.

See page 24-1. To the summit of Haleakala on the Island of Maui, people climb by night to witness the glorious sunrise in the morning, but from the slopes of the great mountain, the sunset over the sea is hardly less inspiring.

See page 249. In Japan every man demands an education, and even the dainty little Japanese 'women are asking for a part in the higher education of , the nation. Butterfly she may be in daintiness of costume, but she is becoming an intellectual helper of her marital partner.

See page 255. In Latin America the family grows apace, nature requiring but little work for the prodigal reward she yields. The millions may not grow individually rich, but they do not starve, nor does the cold ever make homelessness a severe trial.

See page 259. There are perhaps twenty thousand Chinese in Hawaii. In each of the islands the Chinese Club House is the significant land mark of their quarter. It is the pride of the club members that no Chinaman in Hawaii dies in debt.

See page 263. •:*

Adelaide, South Australia, is situated in a park and her suburbs are sur- rounded by other parks. From the adjacent Lofty Range of mountains streams trickle down and these form cascades and waterfalls that attract the lovers of the beautiful in nature.

See page 269. The Japanese workman has not only made Japan the most thrifty of nations, but he is now teaching his methods and giving examples of patient industry to the country people of Korea, and the Koreans are learning the lesson that has made Japan great.

See page 273. • •

In Malaya the simple trades and tools of the people are handed down from father to son. By the roadside and in the cities they may be seen through open doorways plying their routine tasks that bring them a simple living.

See page 283. In time of flood the native Hawaiian seeks his opportunity and casts his net into the raging waters that sweep the fish out toward the sea. born swimmer, seldom is there a tide or surf that deters the Hawaiian fisherman from securing his daily catch of fish.

See page 277. There are islets and lagoons in the South Seas yet unvisited by man. The coconut drifts to these new formed coral and sand banks, grows, thrives, and drops a rain of ripe nuts that in time produce the coconut groves of commerce.

See page 289. Polihali, the famous precipice on the Island of Kauai, is the old jumping- off place of the spirits. It begins the marvelous scenery of the Napali region, and you may even climb up this precipice if you do not mind clambering part of the way back downward on a native rope ladder.

See page 294. New South Wales is the most populous of the Australian States. Within her borders are the waters of the Hawksbury River. In this State are the great wheat producing areas that tax the railways to get their produce to Sydney for ship- ment to the markets of the world.

See page 217. the filth-Parifir iflagazittr CONDUCTED BY ALEXANDER HUME FORD

111111111111111111111111111111 ■1111,1111111111 ■111114.1111111111■1111,1111111111111irilpilt$1111,■111111111,11■11.11.111,1111111.11■11.41111.11111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111 Vol,. IX. MARCH, 1915. No. 3.

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A South Pacific Granary and Garden

By HON. W. A. HOLMAN (Premier of New South Wales.)

F THE SIX STATES composing maritime enterprise in a Continent which the Australian Commonwealth, is commercially and strategically a veritable O New South Wales, the pioneer of golden key to the whole South Pacific. a wonderfully endowed family, proud of Her unrivalled harbour, Port Jackson, one her undisputed title of "Mother State", of nature's masterpieces in maritime archi- stands easily first in population, wealth tecture; could easily accommodate the and commercial importance, the centre of whole British navy without hampering the

217 218 THE MID-PACIFIC movements of the magnificent mercantile have a wonderful future, and your hearts marine fleets which come and go with should thrill with optimism as to the fu- their rich argosies from and to all parts ture of Australia". of the globe. The State of New South Wales com- In an official publication issued under prises an area of 310,367 square miles, the authority of the Government a few which is more than two and a half times years ago, the editor, a singularly gifted the extent of the British Isles. The rich writer, spoke of the restraint he had to and varied soils of this great expanse of put upon the enthusiasm of his staff of country yield an infinite variety of pro- contributors in describing the progress and ducts, ranging from wheat and oats to possibilities of this land of the golden lucerne and sugar cane, from tobacco to fleece and black diamonds. They were barley and the grape vine, from cotton to "marvels" of industrial achievement and silk and olives, from limes and every "magical transformations" from a wilder- known stone fruit to castor oil, from the ness to one of the world's truest forms of luscious strawberry of the cooler climes to civilization, a British outpost on which the the mango and other fruits of the tropics. foot of an invader had never trod, and The most northerly section of the State over which the British flag waved as the is situated well within the temperate zone. symbol of all that made for freedom and In a territory of the area of New South safety. Wales, climatic and rainfall variations are, But here is attempted no narrative of of course, to be expected. Yet the climate marvellous transformations rivalling Ori- is on the whole surprisingly equable, and ental legends and the splendors of Ind. characterized by no violent contrasts of The design of this paper is to give a plain, heat and cold, while it enjoys the distinc- prosaic tale, in which, the imagination has tion of being one of the most salubrious in no play; simply a running summary, with the whole world. representative illustrations of what con- As a field for the settler, the gold seeker, stitutes and contributes to the wonderful the investor, the man of small means, for wealth of natural resources of this parent young men and young women seeking to State, one of the great granaries and most carve out a fortune for themselves, New picturesque gardens of the Pacific. South Wales offers opportunities not ex- New South Wales is a land of magnifi- ceeded by any part of the globe. Ours is a cent resources and vast possibilities. John land of sunshine. Nature here is seen in Foster Fraser, who has journeyed thru her serenest aspects. Earthquakes and many and strange lands, said during his blizzards are alike unknown, and our peo- recent visit to Australia, that he had kept ple are able to pursue their several callings the best country to the last. "Sydney", free from those appalling convulsions which said Mr. Fraser, "is a beautiful and fair spread terror and destruction in older city, and has impressed me as a wonderful lands. town ; but the thing which mostly interests Heretofore, one drawback to the develop- me is the great country which lies beyond ment of our resources has been the want the capital. Here you have a virgin land of water inland. The further from the waiting for man to come along in his seaboard the smaller has been the rainfall. strength and make it really productive for This natural drawback is happily about to the benefit of all classes. One has only to disappear before the genius and enterprise consider what has been accomplished here of man. New South Wales now possesses within the past fifty, sixty or seventy one of the most magnificent irrigation years to appreciate tha great possibilities schemes in the world, the great Burrinjuck there are in this land * * * * You will scheme, which stores up the waters of one THE MID-PACIFIC 219

An Australian Wheat Field.

of the great inland rivers and distributes bour with its 200 miles of foreshores! The them over a vast cultivable area in one of concrete wall is 240 feet high and 160 the most fertile portions of the State. Al- feet thick at the base. Already over 100 ready the huge Murrumbidgee Irrigation feet of water is held back by the great scheme, a Government undertaking, has dam, and the waters are gradually rising. been well and truly launched and firmly The meteorological observations show the established upon a solid basis. To date Murrumbidgee catchment area receives a about 15,000,000 dollars have been ex- sufficient rainfall to fill the lake about 14 pended upon land resumptions, a network years out of every 15. This gigantic land of canals and the laying out of the land for settlement project has thus success written the settlers and finally—the rock upon largely upon it. Sir Rider Haggard, who which the scheme firmly stands—the great visited the area in company with other Burrinjuck Dam. This dam has been con- members of the Dominion Royal Commis- structed across a mountain gorge, and is of sion in 1913, was very enthusiastic con- even greater magnitude than the famous cerning the quality of the soils and the dam of Assouan. In very truth the Bur- future of the undertaking. Up to date rinjuck dam is a stupendous engineering about a quarter of a million acres of ir- feat, and today it stands as one of the rigable land are available, together with a wonders of the world. By its construction million acres of "dry" or non-irrigable land. a great and beautiful lake has been Two important towns have already sprung created, which, when full, will contain up on the area, with some hundreds of twice the amount of water in Sydney har- smiling farms surrounding and contiguous 220 THE MID-PACIFIC thereto. Some conception of the magnitude Duplication of the great trunk lines is be- of the irrigation scheme may be gleaned ing pushed still further afield. In all, from the fact that provision has been made 3930 miles of Government railways, ra- for supplying water to 7,500 farms, and diating thru rich wheat and pastoral the whole area is estimated to support a lands, cater for a sturdy yeomanry. The population of 100,000. net earnings of these railways considerably Other "Nile" areas are to follow on the exceed $10,500,000 per annum. The tram- heels of the Murrumbidgee settlement pro- ways—likewise State controlled—also earn ject, for New South Wales has resolved to over a million dollars net annually. pursue a strenuous and progressive policy This State ranks among the most pro- of intense culture in the immediate future. lific wheat-growing regions of the earth. Beyond that, by an agreement recently en- The figures here given on the authority of tered into between the Governments of the official statistician bear convincing testi- New South Wales, Victoria and South mony to the success of our wheat grow- Australia, thousands of millions of gallons ers. During the 1913-14- season, the of water hitherto running annually to record harvest for the State, of 38,043,000 waste by our greatest stream, the Murray, bushels, was secured from 3,136,000 acres will shortly be available for distribution under crop. The progress being made at over vast tracts of arable land which have present is indicated by a comparison with only, as the saying goes, "to be tickled the two preceding seasons. In 1911-12, with a hoe to laugh with harvests of corn 25,000,000 bushels were garnered from and teem with every variety of fruit that 2,380,000 acres, while in 1912-13 the can be produced in a temperate region." yield was 32,487,000 bushels, from 2,231,- The great need of New South Wales, as 000 acres. indeed, of all the Australian States, is As over four million acres have been population. The population of New South planted with the cereal for 1914-15, the Wales numbers 1, 857,000-974,000 males country should soon eclipse its record and 883,000 females. For a territory of yield of 38,000,000 bushels last harvest. 310,367 square miles, richly endowed as it Bulk handling of wheat is also to be soon is by nature and with the markets of the adopted in New South Wales. Prelimin- world easily accessible, this is far below ary investigations have satisfied the Gov- what the State should be carrying. But as ernment concerning the wisdom of the it is an ill wind that blows no one good, bulk handling method as opposed to the and as good often comes out of evil, it may "bag" system. The marvellous strides be that the latest and greatest of wars will made in the production of wheat during have the effect of turning the attention of recent years render a change of system a some of the sufferers in the devastated parts necessity. of Europe to this land of peace and plenty. Wool, however, is our great staple. In There is room for all white people possessed fine wools New South Wales easily leads of energy and capacity who want to settle the world. The history of the introduction down and cast in their lot among us. of merino sheep here, in the early stages All the railways of New South Wales of Australian colonization, is one of the —with the exception of a few short lines most interesting features of our national connecting coal mines with the main sys- life. But this is not the place to tell the tem—are State owned. The producer is history of the golden fleece. Eminently thus secured against extortionate charges, satisfactory are the yearly statistics of the policy of railway construction being production and all that pertains to this shaped so as to secure the opening up of great industry. In the year 1913 New the country to settlement and production. South Wales exported over sea 262,808,- THE MID-PACIFIC 221

A Farm in New South Wales.

000 pounds of wool, valued at something quantities. No less than 107,632,000 over $58,000,000. At the present time pounds of frozen beef, mutton and lamb, there are no less than 40,000,000 sheep in valued at $7,300,000, were exported dur- the State. On many of the great sheep ing 1913, chiefly to Europe and America. ranches, or stations, as they are termed in The production of butter reached $76,705,- Australia, from 50,000 to 100,000 sheep 000 pounds. are shorn annually. Some of these sta- New South Wales has a valuable asset tions are over a million acres in extent. It in her minerals, over 58,250,000 dollars' is not too much to say that New South worth being won from the earth in 1913. Wales is destined to become one of the. The manufactories and works were richest parts of the British Empire. Her• equally active last year, 5,343 factories, commerce is reflected in the customs statis- with 120,000 employees—over 93,000 of tics taken at Sydney. whom were males—manufacturing goods The trade of the capital city, including worth upwards of $328,000,000. The interstate commerce, approximates 500,- plant and machinery were valued in all 000,000 dollars annually; 9,414 steam and at $74,100,000, while salaries and wages 508 sailing vessels approximating 9,000,000 paid reached $63,300,000. tons, entered and cleared the Port of Syd- Financially, New South Wales is par- ney last year. The finest quality butter ticularly sound. Last financial year Gov- and meat are exported each year in great ernmental and Business Undertakings re- 222 THE MID-PACIFIC turned $91,000,000 or an increase of lypts, they are widely distributed. As the $11,205,000 over the preceding twelve world's supply of soft woods is fast dimin- months. At the end of 1913, the thirteen ishing, our pines are acquiring an en- banks of the State held deposits totalling hanced value. Especially should mention $294,300,000. It speaks volumes for the be made of such indigeous varieties as stability of our banks that they were Blackwood, Red Cedar, Maple, Bunya proof against the shock given by the great Bunya, Stringbark, Huon Pine, and in European war to Continental institutions. particular that valuable variety, the Banking business went on the even tenor Cypress, which is impervious to the rav- of its way throughout all Australia dur- ages of the white ant. Here, then, in ing the awful upheaval, and without pres- New South Wales timber resources is an sure on constituents. immense field for industry and enterprise Among the innumerable problems con- in the cutting for local use and for export fronting the world in the days of rail- as well as in re-afforestation. This the ways, electricity, etc., that of the future Agrictultural and Forestry Departments timber supply, presses for prompt and in- of the State have now turned their serious telligent handling. To the economist it attention to, and, so far, with most en- is quite as absorbing a subject as that of couraging results. the world's future coal supply. Only, in One great and as yet undeveloped asset the treating of the two, there is to be ob- is at our hands in the inexhaustible wealth served a fundamental difference, viz., that offered by the deep sea fishing industry. coal, when once removed from its place in We have in Australia no Dogger Bank. the earth, can never be replaced. It will It is in the ocean depths that a great food have gone for ever. On the other hand supply is to be had for the taking. A timber—and a timber famine is even now beginning has been made, certainly, but within measurable distance—can be repro- only on tentative lines, modest in scope. duced by re-afforestation, and re-afforesta- Fortunes await the successful trawler, for tion is an economic necessity. Now New our ocean depths teem with the most valued South Wales produces coal and timber in varieties of edible fish. rich abundance. The exhaustion of her New South Wales has accomplished coal supplies is yet afar off—thousands of much in the comparatively short period of millions of tons are at present in sight— a century and a quarter. Free education as has been shown by the valuable report —bosh primary and secondary—is provid- of the eminent geologist, Professor David. ed, whilst a liberal system of buisaries and Only in recent years have any systematic scholarships provides a stepping stone to measures been taken towards replenishing the University. the bounteous supplies of hard and soft As a scenic country it has attractions all timbers of the State as they have been van- its own, possessing as it does a remarkable ishing before the axes of the woodman, array of magnificent health and holiday re- the settler and the ringbarker. The tim- sorts. Sydney,, the capital, has long en- bers of New South Wales are among her joyed the soubriquet of Australia's Holi- most valuable assets. Australian ironhark, day City. This beautiful city, which is with which the State is so bounteously picturesquely situated on the Pacific shores, supplied, is the king of hardwoods. The is more than fortunate in the possession of numerous varieties of eucalyptus timbers the world's finest harbour. are everywhere sought after, and Aus- Even more famous are the marvellous tralia pine trees have a value only realized limestone caves of Jenolan, Wombeyan in recent years. In these New South and Yarrangobilly. They are of their Wales is especially rich. Like the euca- kind among the wonders of the world. THE MID-PACIFIC 223

So, too, the famous frowning Blue Moun- great centre of coal production, with its tains and the Hawkesbury River (which fine show piece, Lake Macquarie. Anthony Trollope classed before the Rhine New South Wales extends a hearty wel- and the Mississippi). And there is Mt. come to the tourist, immigrant and the Kosciusko, the top of Australia. Kosciusko man of grit and means. It offers in return is Australia's Fujiyama. It enjoys the the most attractive field and a sure reward singular geological distinction of being the particularly to the irrigationist. oldest land surface on the globe. It is With all our British leanings and pre- the highest peak in the Commonwealth. judices, none will be more welcome than Other truly magnificent tourist centres the go-ahead citizens of the great American are the rich and fertile North Coast and Republic and our own Canadian kith and the Illawarra and South Coast Districts, kin. It is then in no spirit of undue eleva- known respectively as the northern and tion, certainly in no feeling of unfriendly southern gardens of the State. rivalry towards other countries that, re- Also deserving of special mention amid membering her boundless opportunities an endless array of exquisite show places and splendid resources, her vast wheatfields are New England—a rare sanitarium as and vaster areas yearning for the plough, well as a fine trouting, shooting and holi- the beauty of her natural scenery and day resort—and Tumut, equally famous charm of floral wealth, this highly favoured for its excellent sporting grounds and land may be called the granary and garden sight-seeing. And there is Newcastle, of the Pacific.

Mt. KOsciusko in Winter. 224 THE MID-PACIFIC The Princess Kalanianaole and Ex-Queen Liliuokalani.

The Story of Hawaii

By EX-QUEEN LILIUOKALANI.

I NE is a very ancient people. a great man, who conquered all the other Their origin is lost in the mists chiefs, attacking and subduing one island M of tradition. But this much we after another until he became the Lord know with reasonable certainty, namely, of All. that we Hawaiians came to our mid-Pa- This was Kamehameha I. The name cific archipelago directly from Tahiti, literally translated, means "The Lonely which is an island of the Society group as One." His authority as overlord of the it is called today. islands being absolute, and transcending That was ever so long ago—nobody that of all other chiefs, he stood alone— knows how long ago. It may have been the King. In course of time he was suc- two thousand years or more. And of the ceeded by another Kamehameha, second of early history of the islands very little is the name, who, with his queen, died in known. There were various chiefs, who England. But it was Kamehameha III. ruled independently. But at length—it who was on the throne when the Great was only about a century ago—there arose Division of lands was made.

225 226 THE MID-PACIFIC

In the old days, when Queen Liliuokalani was a young princess, the grass house still existed in Honolulu, and she, with other princesses, was well known for her grace as a pau rider, such as is shown in this picture. THE MID-PACIFIC 227

I will return presently to a discussion of own, by the aid of which they could find this matter. But meanwhile let us go back their way; and, as much at home in the to those early colonists who made the water as on dry land, they would, if cap- wonderful voyage of twenty-three hundred sized, right their boats, bale them out miles over a trackless ocean from Tahiti to with coconutshells, and, regarding the in- Hawaii. They were the Vikings of their cident as of small importance, proceed on time—the Norsemen of the Pacific; and to the voyage. their adventurous energy the peopling of Sometimes these voyages lasted for all of Polynesia is attributable. They even months, but they carried their food supply made their way as far as Madagascar, in a concentrated form—taro-root flour, whose native inhabitants today, the Hovas, dried breadfruit, and other provender that are their direct descendants. furnished the maximum of nourishment It seems very likely, indeed, that our with a minimum of bulk. The hull of people were the first discoverers of Amer- each canoe was covered fore and aft with ica, and perhaps the ancestors of the North deck mats, as a protection against the American Indians. True, there are marked waves, and the triangular sail of plaited differences between the Indians and the pandanus leaves was upheld, its apex Polynesians, but the general type is the downward, by a removable mast. same. A Saxon and an Irishman do not These craft were very seaworthy and look much alike, but they are of the same not easily capsized. When a storm came race nevertheless. Polynesians and In- up, the mast was unshipped and lashed dians are not very unlike in the color of with the sail to the cross-pieces connect- their complexion, and black eyes and ing the boats. Then the crew took to the straight hair are characteristic of both. paddles. There were seats for forty pad- Tradition says that the first colonists dlemen two on a bench. Amidship there from Tahiti reached the Hawaiian Islands was a sort of raised platform, walled and not with one or two boats, but with a roofed with mats forming a shelter for whole fleet, numbering fifty or perhaps the captain and the principal officers. A one hundred sail. These craft were huge paddle was used, in lieu of a rudder, for double canoes, built catamaran fashion, steering. each pair of boats being fastened securely Such a fleet as I have described was together, while held a few feet apart and conducted by one vessel, which served as parallel by cross pieces of wood. They a pilot boat. On board of the pilot boat were dug out of great tree trunks, or else were a chart-reader, a star-gazer and an made of planks sewn together with braid official trumpeter. It is interesting, by the of coconut fibre, and each of them—that way, to compare the discipline and ar- is to say each double canoe—held seventy rangement of an ancient Polynesian ex- or more persons. ploring fleet with those of a martime ex- It was in this manner, great fleets of pedition of Vikings. The business of the boats joining in such expeditions, that the stargazer and chartreader was to map early Polynesian explorers journeyed over and determine the course, obtaining what the wide wastes of the Pacific. Of cour- help they could from observation of cur- age and adventurous spirit they certainly rents and the movements of fishes and had no lack, for it should be remembered birds. that the ocean on which they thus fared These ancestors of mine used a rude forth was eleven thousand miles wide. compass of some sort, which was set in the Compared with it, the Atlantic is a mere bow to steer by, but of its construction and pond. But they had evolved and per- method of employment nothing definite is fected a science of navigation of their now known. Their charts were made of 228 THE MID-PACIFIC

A Royal Hawaiian Cortege. cane splints tied together in such a way tremely fertile soil and the finest climate as to form a sort of framework about a in the world. Captain Cook, the famous yard square, with little shells fastened at navigator, when he visited the archipelago, intervals. The shells represented islands, estimated the number of inhabitants at while the sticks. are supposed to have in- four hundred thousand. At the present dicated "streams in the sea"—that is to time the natives of Polynesian ancestry do say, well defined currents. not number more than one-tenth that Such were the vessels in which the early many. What the Caucasian people call colonists from Tahiti came to the Hawai- civilization, and its alcohol and diseases, ian archipelago. It seems likely, and even has wiped them out by wholesale. beyond doubt, that many trips were after- Let me turn back, then, to Kamehameha ward made to and fro, bringing fresh sup- III., who made the Great Division. He plies of colonists. But eventually com- was the enlightened monarch. As Lord munication with Tahiti ceased, and the of All, he ruled absolute, owning in his mother country, if it may so be called, own right every acre of the islands. There faded into a sort of myth—a region of were many chiefs, but all were subject to mystery and magic, full of marvels and his authority. It was a typical feudal sys- inhabited by supernatural beings. tem, not unlike that which existed in Meanwhile the colonists throve and Europe during the Middle Ages. multiplied. The new paradise in which But Kamehameha III. was progressive, they found themselves possessed an ex- and he loved his people. He wished to THE MID-PACIFIC 229 improve their condition. Accordingly, he throne, in addition to the privy purse of divided all of the lands of the archipelago $20,000 a year, for maintaining the royal into three equal parts. The first part he household. gave to the chiefs and the people. The Three separate and valuable pieces of second part became general public lands. the Crown lands have been taken for the The third part was retained by the mon- direct use of the Federal Government. One arch, but afterward this part was again tract, adjoining Honolulu harbor, is oc- split into three shares, one-third of it be- cupied by the Honolulu naval station. An- ing assigned for the personal use and other is the site of Camp Shafter, equip- benefit of the occupant of the throne and ped as a military post. The third, at Wai- his successors. anae-uka, in the interior of Oahu, is oc- When Kamehameha III. died, this per- cupied as an army post. The portions of sonal estate descended to his successors, these lands directly held and used by the and eventually to me personally—to myself, United States for military purposes are the Queen, ruling in my own right as a alone worth $1,000,000. collateral descendant of Kamehameha III. Hawaii *has cost this nation nothing. During my reign as Queen of Hawaii, Indeed, besides contributing valuable lands to the territory of the United States, it the area of the Crown lands was about has been a source of cash revenue. Al- 1,000,000 acres ; their present value is though the Government of the United over $12,000,000. The income from them States assumed $4,000,000 of Hawaii's debt at the time of the overthrow of my gov- the cash revenues paid into the Federal ernment was over $65,000 a year—which treasury since the annexation have amount- sum went direct to the occupant of the ed to that amount several times over.

The Liliuokalani Hula. 230 THE MID-PACIFIC

•

• Among the Pines and Pagans

By REGINALD M. CLUTTERBUCK

N THE PHILIPPINES, at Manila, year round, where hardy pine takes the from the sweltering heat of the place of the dreamy palm, and where the I Tropics, where the mercury touches term tropical diseases is a myth. 90 degrees in the shade several days in the Lying one hundred and eighty-five miles month for twelve months of the year, north from Manila, at an altitude of some and in the hot season see-saws between 95 5,200 feet above sea-level, is Baguio, a and 100 degrees, it is but a half day's generally known as "The Simla of the journey to a region enjoying a temperate- Philippines." It is reached by the railway zone climate, where ice forms upon the via a small village called Camp One, and streams in winter, and where one can enjoy from there the remaining distance, thirty- sitting in front of open log fires, and sleep- five kilometers, is accomplished by auto- ing beneath heavy blankets at night, the mobiles.

231 232 THE MID -PACIFIC

Ever since my arrival in Manila I had the most remarkable feats of road engineer- been determined to make the trip to ing in the world ; for the greater part of Baguio and the wonderful district sur- the distance it runs through the canyon of rounding it, and my chance came when it the Bued River, following the stream on was announced that a special excursion a shelf hewn out of the rock, and crossing was to be run at Easter. Having pur- several times from one side of the gorge to chased my ticket I stepped aboard the the other. The Bued, at the time of our Baguio Special shortly after nine o'clock trip, was a very insignificant stream, but on the night of April 8th and punctually during the rainy season it is transformed at 9 :30 the train steamed out of the sta- into a raging torrent, and is the cause of tion, bearing with it over 300 people, all many washaways on the road. At several keen upon spending their Easter holidays points on the trail we saw indisputable among the pine-clad heights of Northern evidence of the fury of the river during Luzon, thereby rejuvenating their jaded the wet weather—here, the remains of a nerves, and at the same time learning great steel bridge, tangled into a snarl, and something of the curious customs of the red with rust, which had been washed tribes which inhabit the fastnesses of those away a few seasons ago, at a time when mountain wilds. Of the journey to Camp the rain was falling in the canyon at the One I pass over quickly. It reminded me rate of one and one-half inches an hour, forcibly of a trip I once made over-night there, a huge tree, the earth from whose in Japan; traveling from Gotemba, at the roots had been washed away, with the re- foot of their sacred mountain Fuji-yama, sult that, being unable to support its own to Kobe. weight any longer, it had toppled over It was 5 a. m., and still dark when into the river. Camp One was reached. Here, after hav- Even to the much-traveled tourist the ing our suit-cases checked, prior to their road provides a series of thrills from be- being placed aboard the baggage auto, we ginning to end. I have traveled over a climbed into one of the many machines good many roads in different parts of the which were waiting to convey us to our world, but I have never seen anything to destination. The cars were all powerful equal the Benguet Trail for excitement "DeDion Boutons," and held eighteen and scenery combined. Over frail bridges passengers, the chauffeur and his assistant. we would rush, up and down steep grades, While we were seated waiting for a start around hairpin corners, and almost on the to be made, dawn broke with the marked very edge of a precipice, where one false suddenness peculiar to the Tropics, and turn of the steering wheel would have the rising sun tinged the clouds and moun- sent the car and its occupants to certain tain tops with a beautiful orange. As soon destruction. The scenery is extraordin- as it was properly light we commenced arily wild and picturesque ; giant peaks the last stage of our journey. Behind us towered away above us, some entirely clad lay the huge plain, stretching some 200 in vegetation, whilst the sides of others miles south, which we had crossed the were badly scarred as the result of recent night before, whilst in front, with re- landslides. Numerous waterfalls were markable abruptness rose the mountains, spouting, it seemed, out of the very rock whose peaks soared thousands of feet into itself, whilst here and there were mighty the air. ravines, down whose rocky slopes tumbled The road to Baguio from Camp One a dozen or more little mountain streams, is known as the Benguet Trail, and was which all found their way into the Bued. built just over a decade ago at an expense The natural formation of some of the of some two million dollars. It is one of rocks passed on the road was really won- THE MID-PACIFIC 233

Native life in the Philippines. derful ; one solitary rock standing along- sea-level, but by the time the summit of side the road, when viewed from a certain the zig-zag was reached we were but a point, revealed an indisputable likeness of few feet from the 4,000 mark, and this in the profile of a lion's head, another pile of a lineal distance of only 272 miles! From rocks strongly resembled an old ruined Prospect Point, at the top of the zig-zag, medieval castle, whilst a third bore the a wonderful view of the Bued Valley was legend "Old Man Rock", and certainly obtained, the road being visible for miles, did justice to its title. Many high and winding up the mountain side like a huge beautiful waterfalls tumbled from the white snake, until it was finally lost around mountain-side almost on to the very road ; a spur in the mountain chain. The whole one was surrounded with ivy-vines, which aspect of the country-side was now had twined themselves around the rock at changed. In place of the eternal bamboo, its base, and gradually grown upward mango trees, and coconut. palm, of the until they completely covered the source of plains, were splendid specimens of pines, the fall. the scent from which delighted our nostrils. After passing through some twenty-four The air, too, was much cooler and de- kilometers of this beautiful scenery, climb- cidedly invigorating, and, after the drowsy, ing all the time, we suddenly came to the humid, atmosphere of the lowlands, seem- end of the valley, the river in the mean- ed to put new life into us. time having dwindled down to a very The mountains around Baguio are popu- small stream. On all sides of us towered lated with a race of natives, known as the mountains, and to surmount the in- Igorrotes, a well-built, hardy, people, whose tervening ranges the road was built zig- physique is in striking contrast with that zag fashion up its side. The ascent of this of the Filipinos of the plains. They are a portion of the road proved to be the most hard-working race. After clearing the interesting and unique of the whole ride. steep hill-sides of the pine-trees, they turn When we left the river-bed the altitude the soil with sharp sticks, and plant sweet was a little over three thousand feet above potatoes, millet and beans. Rice is culti- 3—M.P. 234 THE MID-PACIFIC vated by the building of terraces on the stores, situated in a line on one side of the mountain side—upon which tremendous road, and with few exceptions, controlled energy is spent ; in some places thousands by Chinese and Japanese. Here one can of acres on the mountain side have been purchase all the necessaries of life, at prices transformed into rice-terraces, being the re- very little higher than in Manila. At the sult, in most cases, of generations of labor. foot of the hill stands the market, where The system of irrigation employed by these one may buy anything in the line of native people in connection with the cultivation wares and clothing, from a gee-string to of rice is very complete, and they actually a spear. I made one purchase there—a use fertilizers to prevent the impoverish- gee-string, for which I paid 25 centavos,— ment of the soil. The Igorrotes are one the cheapest suit of clothes I have ever of a number of pagan tribes who inhabit bought ! On week-days the market is the mountain fastnesses of this region, and rather quiet, but on Sundays it presents whose numbers are something like 400,000. a very animated scene, when a dog and Formerly these people were notorious head- pig market is held—but more of that anon. hunters, and although that custom has After a thorough inspection of the town not entirely died out, yet the natives we retired to the "Pines", one or the two around the settled districts today no longer excellent hotels which Baguio possesses, live in a state of continuous warfare, and where we satisfied the cravings of the in- industry has flourished accordingly. ner man, whose demands, doubtless due to As we neared Baguio we passed num- the bracing nature of the air of Baguio, bers of Igorrotes on the road. The ma- had been very insistent. Lunch over, we jority of males were clad in merely a returned to our new home, and, following shirt and a gee-string, whilst quite a num- the example of a large percentage of the ber had discarded the former article ; the party, retired to our couches, and mur- women were wearing a skirt, a girdle, and muring with true fervor Sancho Panza's a waist, usually of cotton, but no head- famous saying, "God bless the man who gear. Most of the women we saw were invented sleep", were soon in the land of carrying baskets, containing market pro- Nod. After three hours of sound sleep I duce and so forth, and which they carried arose and had a shower bath, the tempera- by means of a strap passed over the fore- ture of which, at that altitude, i. e. a mile head. above sea-level, was largely responsible in Up over smooth, well-kept roads, with bringing me to my senses; that water felt pine trees on both sides, we climbed for as though it was twenty degrees below another 1,300 feet or so, until at length zero! However, it drove away all feel- we reached Government Center, where it ings of drowsiness, and left me in a first- was arranged we should stay whilst at rate condition. Baguio. Government Center consists of a After dinner that night, we attended a number of two-storyed wooden and suali canao, (a native feast), that had been ar- buildings, situated in the form of three ranged by the Igorrotes in our honor. The sides of a square, on a commanding posi- feast was to take place at eight o'clock in tion near the center of Baguio. It is to a little hollow, not far from Government here that the employees in the Govern- Center. We arrived there on time, and ment Bureaus migrate, and carry on the found quite a goodly crowd already gath- administration of the country during the ered. Besides a fair number of white hot summer months. people, there were also many Igorrote After a most refreshing wash and brush- spectators, some of whose costumes were up we strolled to the commercial part of very amusing. One native we saw wore a Baguio; which consists of about two score shirt, waist-coat, linen collar and tie, but THE MID -PACIFIC 235

no trousers or hat. But I think the fun- on the naked bodies of the savages, as they niest among them all was an old fellow, danced round and round to the not un- who apparently felt the cold somewhat, musical sounds produced by the beating of and strutted around in a long black f rock- the tom-toms, the group of wicked looking coat, buttoned up and reaching nearly to spears in the center, and the crowd of na- his knees, whilst on his head he wore a tives squatting around the fires. Had it very dilapidated straw hat. These two been possible to take a photograph of garments constituted his complete attire! this scene, it would have formed a fitting The frock coat was quite a stylish one, illustration to any of Fenimore Cooper's and might have been cut by a "West End" books. Dance followed dance, until at tailor. Little did that tailor think, when length the odor from the pan announced he chalked out the coat, that it would some that "chow" was ready. Everyone then day adorn the body of a pagan in the gathered around and joined in the feast, mountain wilds of the Philippines! In the and from the frequent grunts it was evi- center of the clearing, half a dozen bon- dent that they were enjoying themselves. fires were blazing away, over one of which Indeed, there is only one thing an Igorrote was a huge shallow pan, containing water likes better than pig, and that is dog, but in which cut-up portions of a recently kill- "Fido" not being procurable at that time ed pig were being cooked. Not far from of the week "Porky" was substituted. the ground, with their handles stuck into Two blankets were required that night the ground, were seven or eight spears, to keep us warm—so different from Ma- varying in length from five to seven feet, nila, where at that time of the year no and with all sorts of diabolical-looking covering was needed at night-time. points. The program for the next day was a Presently, one of the Igorrotes started thirty-mile drive around the neighborhood, to beat a tom-tom, another followed suit, in automobiles. This ride proved to be by then another, until there were four, all no means the least enjoyable item in our keeping in perfect time. Then several vacation. We climbed to all the points ac- Igorrotes stepped forward and began to cessible by road, in the district, where we dance round and round, in single file. This were regarded with some of the finest views continued for about five minutes, when the of mountain scenery I have ever set eyes dancing suddenly ceased; but after a short upon ; the clearness of the air, too, enabled interval another one commenced, and this us to see for very great distances. time several women joined in. In this That afternoon we set off to walk to a particular dance, the men carried their small Igorrote village, lying some five kilo- spears, which they brandished at every meters from Baguio, in another valley. step ; now and again they would turn upon Along the road we passed a strawberry each other, and go through a "make-be- field, the sight of which reminded me of lieve" fight. The skill with which they the far-famed fields of Kent ; the plants handled those spears in the mock duels ex- were the same, but when I sampled the pelled any doubts that may have existed in fruit, a little while later, my mind return- our minds that these natives had entirely ed very forcibly to the Philippines. Further abandoned the use of this instrument of on we passed some fields of rice—that warfare since the American occupation of mainstay of the millions who inhabit the the Philippines. The whole scene of the Far East. We stood for a few minutes natives' revelry was totally different from watching the women who were working in anything I had ever before beheld. Every- the fields ; never a word did they speak thing looked so weird •and f atastic ;—the to each other, but with their backs bent in flickering light from the bonfires shining a most uncomfortable looking position, 236 THE MID-PACIFIC

The Road to Baguro.

worked away, industriously pressing down lage—a collection of about a score of huts the mud around each stalk of rice. A few set up in a haphazard fashion, and sur- yards further on brought us to the "muni- rounded by rice fields. The men of the cipio", which was the headquarters of the village were standing around in groups, local corps of Constabulary. Wearing whilst the women were evidently away, nothing more than a shirt, khaki coat and working in the rice paddies. At first our a slouch hat, an Igorrote constable stood intrusion was eyed with suspicion, but we on guard, and with a fixed bayonet looked soon gained the confidence of the villagers, very business-like. Strolling around to the and one of them, who hailed from another back of the building, we found a member province, and spoke a little Spanish, obliged of the Constabulary, evidently an amateur us with some interesting data on the his- tonsorial artist, with the aid of a pair of tory of the village and its inhabitants. In scissors, giving proof of his hairdressing the center of the village "street" a fire was abilities on the head of one of his com- burning, over which a shallow pan was rades, who squatted on the grass, looking placed, in which some "rice-beer" was be- just as comfortable as if seated in the best ing brewed, and near it, squatting on his upholstered barber's chair. No such thing haunches, and closely wrapped with blan- as a sheet enshrouded his body on which kets was the "Grand Old Man of the Vil- to catch the falling hair; indeed, having a lage", "noventa anos, mas, senor" (over regard for his coat and shirt he had taken ninety years of age) our interpreter in- them both off ! The scene was worth re- formed us—and he looked every day of it! cording; my kodak was withdrawn from We were just in time for afternoon tea— its case, carefully focussed, and in one or the Igorrote equivalent, which was the twenty-fifth of a second the scene was "rice beer" above mentioned. I was offered faithfully depicted on the film. a mug of it by a smiling and pretty little We eventually reached the Igorrote vil- Igorrote maiden, but although I should THE MID-PACIFIC 237 like to have obliged her, yet I declined, after hovering around the walls, eventually seeing that the drink itself did not look too found their way through the nipa thatch- appetizing, and remembering at the same ing. The but consisted of one room only, time that these people know but little of and there seemed to be no comfort, such as the laws of hygiene. we know it, in the whole place, the floor Although I have hiked a good bit in the serving as bed, table, and—everything else. Philippines, yet this was the first time I In one of these huts live a whole family of had experienced such hospitality. As be- perhaps a dozen in number. fore mentioned, the mountain tribes differ In common with the other inhabitants greatly from the Tagalogs of the plains. of the archipelago, the Igorrote relishes pig- Passing along the road in the district of flesh ; hence, there were pigs everywhere— Baguio, we would often be greeted by the black pigs, white pigs, black and white natives with a cheery "Good morning, sir", pigs, and pigs marked like a tabby cat, all which is so different from what one ex- grunting and squealing, and rooting around periences on the plans. In connection with under the huts. Presently, three little the politeness of the Igorrotes in greeting Igorrote girls emerged from one of the white people, there is an amusing story on huts and winnowed some rice. This was record. Shortly after the commencement done in the usual Oriental style, by tossing of the American occupation of the Philip- the rice from a shallow basket into the air, pines, an American lady, a Mrs. Kelly, the wind blowing away the husks, and started a school in the neighborhood of catching it again. After the rice had been Baguio, at which she gave instruction in winnowed, it was pounded ready for the English and other useful subjects. One evening meal. Two sticks planted in the of the things she taught her pupils, was ground and a crosspiece some four feet to greet her as they entered the schoolhouse long about eighteen inches from the ground, each morning, with "Good-morning Mrs. aroused our curiosity, and we enquired of Kelly". This lesson of politeness was well our obliging friend the purpose for which learned, for after that, whenever any of it was used. He explained that by means her pupils chanced to meet any white per- of it the tender-aged members of the val- son on the street he would politely say, lage were taught to walk and catching a "Good morning, Mrs. Kelly" ! youngster, carried him over, with the idea This reminds one somewhat of the en- of giving us a demonstration of "how it thusiastic Japanese student of English, who was done", but "Igorrote Junior" was not used to greet any European with whom he at all agreeable to perform before the came into contact with "Good morning, "Ingles", and set up such a howling, that, Sir, or Madam, as the case may be." to preserve the peace of the village, the But to return to the Igorrote village. exhibition was postponed. After having The huts of these people are built more thoroly explored the village, we decided to substantially than the flimsy nipa shacks of return to Baguio. I desired, however, to the plains, being constructed of good stout take a photograph of the entire group of pine boards and having a strongly thatched villagers, and prepared to make terms with roof. The huts, however, are very poorly the interpreter, who, after a confab with the ventilated ; we explored one of these huts— rest of the people, informed me that they at least we went about two steps inside of would all pose for a peseta (5d) apiece, it, which was quite sufficient, as we were and assured me that this was their lowest nearly choked with the smoke from a fire figures. Besides this price being exorbitant, which was burning on the floor, for, there the light was very bad at the time, so I re- being no chimney, the atmosphere was per- plied in Spanish the equivalent of "Nothin' meated with the thick heavy fumes, which, doin' ", and we took our departure. 238 THE MID -PACIFIC

Except for an encounter with a three- The Igorrote pig differs greatly from foot snake, which, however, proved to be other varieties; there is no need to drive too quick for us and disappeared into a him to market, the Igorrote merely ties a clump of bushes, nothing exciting occurred piece of string around his neck, and the on the return trip. Although the sky had test is simple. I caught up with an Igorrote worn a threatening appearance all the on the road, who was taking his pig along to afternoon, we had no rain, but as soon as market, and took a photograph of him. we left that valley a drizzle started, He had no objection to standing still for which, as we neared Baguio, resolved it- a second or two, but the way that pig self into a steady downpour, which in strained at that string in his anxiety to turn, gave way to a regular tropical reach Baguio, reminded me of a group of deluge, and we were forced to take refuge sleigh dogs waiting for the signal to be in a Chinese "tienda". The average an- off, that I once saw at a cinematograph nual rainfall at Baguio is 150 inches, and show ! Another snapshot I made was of judging from the violence of that shower an old lady, who was carrying a large I do not doubt the statistics ! case on her head. She was willing enough Saturday we started out for a long to pose for me, and I took the picture all walk along a new road that was being right, closed my camera and was walking constructed. After about three kilometers away, when I heard her give a weird sort of climbing, on rounding a bend in the of a cry, and, turning round, saw her come road we were treated to a marvellous running after me, with outstretched hand ; panorama of mountain scenery, with the it then occurred to me that I had over- blue China Sea as a background some looked the small donation which the trav- twenty miles away, and one mile beneath eling photographer must expect to pay out us. At certain spots we passed gangs of when taking figure studies of natives, no "navvies" at work on the road, all appar- matter whether he is in the Philippines or ently contented, and working with a will. Fiji, Java or Japan, Hawaii or Haiti, For a day's work they receive 50 cen- Colombo or China—so I placed a "nickel" tavos ( 1/—) and work just when and in her hand, and she went on her way how long they please; it is not surprising, rejoicing. therefore, that strikes in this district are Saturday afternoon a chum and I walk- unknown ! Desiring to get a picture of ed to Topside, which is one of the highest one of the workmen, I approached a well- points near Baguio, and from the sum- built, muscular Ifugao, who was light- mit of which one obtains a magnificent heartedly trundling a barrow. He re- vista of mountains and valleys—a scene, garded me with a look of terror and suspi- which, in the Far East, so far as my lim- cion, but I assured him somewhat by plac- ited experience has extended, is second ing into his not unwilling hand a ten-cent noly to that from the top of Fuji-yama in piece, and pointing to my camera, made Japan. The atmosphere was rather hazy, signs that I wanted him to pose for me. He but I managed to obtain a couple of fair "savvied" all right, but nevertheless, stood pictures. Whlist in the neighborhood of there in fear and trembling whlist I made Topside, I "snapped" a "vaca", which is the exposure, and appeared very much re- the local beast of burden. This animal is lieved when the ordeal was over. Along not indigenous to the Philippines, but the road, we passed several groups of comes from India, and, being used to hilly Igorrotes who were on their way to Ba- country, takes the place, in these moun- guio with their pigs, which they intended tainous regions, of the slow and clumsy to offer for sale at Baguio market the next carabao of the plains. day. Sunday is a regular field-day for the THE MID-PACIFIC 239

Igorrotes. They come in for miles around dog at the market, and then cut it loose, with their dogs and pigs, which they dis- announcing beforehand that whoever pose of at the market. Sometimes as caught the dog could keep it. The dog many as five hundred dogs may be seen in flew off like a shot, and the way those the small market place, each one singing a Igorrotes chased that animal up hill and different note, and a visit to the market down dale, was alone worth coming all on that day reminds one for all the world the way to Baguio to see! It gave them of the Dogs' Home at Battersea, London. a good run, but was eventually laid by the Each Igorrote brings in from half a dozen heels, and without ceremony, was despatch- to a score of dogs, which he has tied on to ed, roasted and eaten. separate strings. The dogs are starved for It was with feeling of genuine regret, days before market-day, for the thinner the that Sunday morning, when we climbed dog is, the better the Igorrote likes-it, and into the auto which was to take us back the higher the price he will pay. A good to Camp One. Baguio, with its invigorat- thin dog will fetch from $1.00 to $1.50. ing climate, its pines, glorious vistas, and Each Igorrote, on entering the market, interesting people, had captured us. But has to pay a tax of ten cents an animal, the holidays were over, and all of us had which goes towards the expenses incurred to return to our respective places of busi- in the upkeep of the place. After an Igor- ness the following morning, so there was rote buys a dog he takes it home and nothing to do but to make the best of it. gives it a good feed of rice for several The return trip to Camp One was even days, and when it has gorged itself, he more enjoyable to us than the trip up, hav- takes his bolo (a huge knife) and gives it ing been preceded by a good night's sound the "coup de grace". The dog is then sleep. Camp One was reached without held over a fire by two natives, one hold- mishap or adventure, and we found the ing by the head and the other by the feet train waiting to take us back to Manila. until it is well roasted; it is then eaten with much relish. On some occasions ar. So ended my four days' trip to the Igorrote will invite his friends around to mountains of Northern Luzon, and when his hut, and a canao is held, such as al- in after years my thoughts revert to the ready described. Philppines my longing to return will be One member of our party purchased a to Baguio—the "Simla of the Philippines." 240 THE MID-PACIFIC Lake IF anaka and Mt. Aspiring.

New Zealand Mountain Climbing

By S. TURNER, F.R.G.S. •

OUNT ASPIRING is the most to be useless). We abandoned the ridge at inaccessible mountain in New the last moment as not / good route, and M Zealand. Two days beyond proceeded along the side of the river Ma- Pembroke, thru Cattle Flats, and beyond tukituki until we came to an old avalanche, the Niger hut, we came to the first base where we crossed the river and climbed camp, in a clearing in the bush ; from here direct to the bivouac up by a mountain it is about ten miles to the head of the stream and up a shingle or rock slide. On west branch of the river Matukituki. We our way up we could see the Head camp- made our first attempt on Aspiring from ing ground, used by Captain Head. The here three days after my arrival. Our party rocks on the top of the ridge were quite consisted of H. E. Hodgkinson, J. R. round, as though the frost had done its Murrell, Robertson, and myself. They work. elected me leader and step-cutter, and we We did not take long to pitch our made a start for the bivouac with the in- small bivouac tent, as we had been in heavy tention of climbing up a bush-covered ridge rain for the last three hours. The cooking opposite a second camp pitched about two stoves made us forget the cold, and we hours beyond our first camp ( which proved turned in for the night to make ourselves

241 242 THE MID-PACIFIC as comfortable as possible, after a little sup- more rock climbing and less step-cutting. per. At about midnight it was freezing We started on February 10, at 6 a. m. hard, and I asked for a match with the We reached the head camp at 2 o'clock, idea of looking at the time and making a and pitched a tent and had dinner and a start, but as nobody would give me one and rest until 10 p. m. We started with two seemed to be very reluctant to make a lanterns, and picked the way up a dry move, I went to sleep again, and we were stream bed in a dense fog. Not being able not up until about 6 o'clock. After break- to see one another, we had to keep close fast, and while the party were spreading together. We had been up this way once out the kit, I cut up the ice slope about in the daylight, and had picked our route 1000 feet, and looked out a route as well up a dry stream during the afternoon, so as possible, and returned for the rest of we did not expect to get off the track. the party. Then we cut further up the It was suggested that I had taken the slope, but were stopped by a wide crevasse wrong route, but the suggestions were cut about half way up the slope, and had to short, however, by my announcing the turn back and cut up nearer the precipices ridge, and we came out just where it was on our left. We had no further trouble easy to find our bivouac. We untied all in finding our route, but the crevasses the kit and spread it out to dry, boiled were very numerous and the ice face very some soup, and made a fresh start at 2:30 much broken, so we were pleased when we a. m. We had to go slowly in the dense reached the top of the ice slope. We mist, as we were near the precipices of prospected the place and picked out the Bottle Valley, on our right (named by me route for the morrow, but decided that on account of its bottle shape, the outlet nine hours' step-cutting was enough for being like the neck of a bottle). We had one man for one day; and as it was get- to get on to the centre of the ice slope to ting dark we saw the need of getting back evade some wide crevasses on our left, and to the tent, to pitch it before nightfall; so it was difficult to distinguish anything. we hurried down as fast as we possibly We looked for traces of our steps, but could, and regained the bivouac just before found none. The rain had washed them dark. all out, so it was clear that I would have We had supper, and had retired to to cut all the steps over again. Setting to rest when the rain started, and continued work with a will, the first signs of dawn through the night, and all the next morn- were upon us before we had got half way ing, so we packed the kit and descended to up the ice slope, and the black mist we had the main camp. The streams on the way been climbing through gradually turned gave us plenty of trouble, and we only grey, and soon afterwards white. As we crossed them after some manceuverings rose higher up the slope we looked down and roping together. We were storm- on the white mist like a sea over the val- bound for six days, and had begun to ley, and took many photographs of the think we were in for two or three weeks' peaks in the distance across the valley, bad weather when it showed signs of hitherton unphotographed and unclimbed. clearing, so we decided to climb as long We had many snow bridges to cross and as the weather would allow us. Before crevasses to jump, which kept up the in- the six days' rain Mount Aspiring looked terest. After seven hours' step-cutting I as though a third of the ice had come off was glad to reach the top of the ice slope the west face, but after the rain more where we had cut up to before. Now than half of the west face was clear of ice, came the most interesting part of the steep and we were very pleased to see it, is we ice slope. I cut along the top of a serac thought it would make it better for us— 20 feet long—the only connecting link be- THE MID-PACIFIC 243 tween the ice break and the ice wall. After top of us. We had a feeling of utter cutting carefully I reached a doubtful snow helplessness, and we were not out of danger bridge, and had to stand on this doubtful until we crossed under the last seracs near place while the next man came along the the bridge. While passing alongside of serac; and, considering these men had never Mount Aspiring the rocks on our right been on an ice slope before, they did very impressed me as being in the right direction well. I took as much rope as possible, for the west face, but as there was no ice and scrambled as lightly as possible up the on them I decided to continue on and see snow bridge, but on reaching the top of if the west face was further on. Climbing this bridge the sight of the Bonar Glacier up some steep ice slopes, we came to the made me forget for a moment or two that rocky ridge that comes up from Stargazer I was on a snow bridge. The sight was Peak and extends up to Aspiring. We beyond all I ever expected. It was with made for a divide in this ridge, and when Mount Aspiring in the background, the we reached the crest of this divide it was shape of a triangle rising out of the most quite clear to me we had passed the west beautifully-shaped glacier I have ever seen face of Aspiring, and were on the edge of —just the shape of a saucer. Turning the east precipices, and that the enormous round, I dug my ice axe into the snow ice avalanche we had crossed was the west and called for the next man to come along, face ice slope, which had avalanched off. and held him firm in case of the snow We paused for lunch and to consider the bridge breaking. There was 3000 or 3500 position. Mount Aspiring has four ridges feet of a drop underneath the serac and —first, the coxcomb ; next, a very step snow bridge, so the party seemed greatly center ridge, ice-covered ; then the west relieved when they reached the top. After face, ice-covered in the winter and very taking in the view and taking a few more rarely clear like we had it ; then the ridge photographs, we made for the west face of on which we sat for lunch, with a very Aspiring as fast as we could go. All went steep thumb-shaped narrow pinnacle on our well until we saw before us an enormous right, which commenced the Aspiring avalanche quite a mile and a half long and ridge, which seemed to continue in a series one mile wide; enormous blocks of ice of finger-shaped narrow ridges, or, to be which had avalanched off Aspiring, and more correct, the ridge from where we had covered about three miles distance, fill- sat to the final slope of Aspiring was ser- ing up some of the most formidable cre- rated. Commencing with a thumb-shaped vasses on our route. It was no easy task pinnacle about 250 or 300 feet high from to pick a safe track across this enormous the ridge, the side nearly the glacier was mass of loose ice. Millions of tons had a sheer wall. I climbed a little way avalanched off the mountain, and then round the ridge, and decided to tackle it millions more tons had avalanched thru rather than turn back; but if I had known the fallen mass, making shutes about 20 what we were in for I would have decid- yards across, with a floor as smooth as ed .otherwise. The east face of Aspiring glass, while the loose blocks of ice were where we began to climb is the most mag- cut as with a plane quite even. The speed nificent precipice in New Zealand, and of the avalanche must have been terrific. it is this precipice that travellers can see While we were crossing we cast uneasy from the distance, which looks so formid- glances in the direction of Mount Aspiring, able. It is about 8500 feet of a precipice where the ice had fallen from, as there from the summit of Aspiring to the base were enormous masses ready and loose, on the east side, and we were about 2500 which seemed to require but the slightest feet below the summit, so we were climb- touch to send them thundering down on ing with 6000 feet underneath us. After 244 THE MID-PACIFIC

the first 150 or 200 feet it became a case beady and loose, and it was deemed wise of finding any place where we could get to cut over to the east face, to where the up the precipice, and not a case of pick- snow seemed to have formed small ava- ing the route. I tried to find a place lanches. This gave better footing, altho easier than the overhanging ledge I was we had to take the risk of avalanches, but just attacking, but the only place I could still it was better than sliding off the find was a smooth slam wall, inclined to mountain, which seemed very likely to be be a very open chimney, up which it was the result if we ket on the bad ice. necessary to wriggle without hand holes This brought us out on the summit from or foot holes, by the aid of friction with an easterly direction, and enabled us to evade the knees on the wall facing me while the narrow crest of the ridge of the final lying on the left side. The only hand summit slope. The wind began to trouble hold was on a piece of overhanging rock us as we neared the final tip of the sum- jutted out from a kind of a shelf. It mit, and we could see that we were in for was a doubtful hand hold, but the only a storm. As I advanced over to the cox- one, and I had to take the risk. It was comb side to let the next man get on to impossible to test it before taking the grip. the final tip I felt the full blast of the I found myself on a very firm ledge, and threatening storm. I asked the party if was able to pull the next man up, and they were satisfied at reaching the sum- when he was on the ridge we pulled the mit, and when they expressed themselves others up. We were in the middle of all well satisfied I gave the word to descend. kinds of difficulties, and I pointed out The clouds and oncoming storm prevent- that we would have to climb quickly and ed any view or photographs, and there was be content to be benighted in order to get very little prospect of its clearing even if to the summit. I made the pace as quick we paused on the summit. As we were as possible, but the very long day was be- anxious to get down as low as possible be- ginning to tell on one or two members of fore nightfall, we hurried off the sum- the party, while Hodgkinson was not feel- mit and down the loose snow. Going ing very well. It would be easy to get down was as risky a piece of work as one into serious difficulties on the Aspiring could imagine. I constantly called the precipices, as the strata dips from north attention of the party to the damaged to south in a series of narrow ledges, steps, which had turned into a gutter, which are steep, smooth rock, and in some down which we had to slide, trusting to places rotten, with stones resting on the luck that the sides of the gutter would ledge, where one least expects them. not break and let us slide down the moun- After interesting incidents we came to a tain side. I could not anchor my ice axe kind of shoulder on the top of the serrated in the snow, and all I could do was to ridge, and took a photo of the final sum- keep myself from sliding on to the next mit ice slope and the east precipices. We man. continued up the ridge on the rock, evad- It did not last very long, and we soon ing the ice slope and step-cutting as long scrambled down the ridge on to the shoul- as possible. To do this it was necessary der, and the rain began, with a strong to walk as near to the east precipices as wind, so I told the party to consider them- we could get, but when we were about selves benighted, and not to think of try- 300 feet from the summit we crossed over ing to descend any further. While Rob- to the west side and walked along the ertson and Hodgkinson looked around for slabs on the edge of the west face preci- a place in the rocks, Murrell and I climb- pices up to the last 200 feet. Then we ed down some little distance to try and had to get on to the ice, the ice being find a more suitable place, but without THE MID-PACIFIC 245

success. We joined our efforts to pile when Hodgkinson's storm cap blew off stones round a crack in the rocks and into the mist and down the west face. I make the place as suitable as possible. We located it, and followed, and while pick- had the sky for a roof, but it was possible ing it up had a look, as far as the rain for one man to get under a ledge of rock, and mist would allow, at the kind of and this special place was given to Hodg- climbing necessary. We could not see far kinson. We kept the lanterns lit as long enough to warrant us taking that route, as we had any candles, and we were feel- so we ascended and climbed along the ing full of the success of climbing Aspir- ridge again; but we had gone along the ing, and would have happily made the west side of the ridge as far as we could, best of a bad job ; but the two men who and a rock wall, quite smooth, made us were left to bring the food in their ruck- take the weather side of the mountain. sacks had only brought just enough for a The water was running down from the meal, and that was used for lunch at 12 narrow ledges and dripping down the preci- o'clock noon, and about 10 p. m. we were pice, so we had a' shower bath; but the feeling in need of food. The loud shiver- wet made it easier to stick to the rocks ing and chattering of teeth by each mem- with our clothes, which made it easier to ber of the party was discomforting, and it get over difficult places. At least we came was a question whether the party could to the overhanging ledge that had troubled stand the cold. The hours wore on, and us in the ascent, and we proved to our own Robertson said he could see the first signs satisfaction that it was the only way. of dawn; but it was raining all night, and I climbed down and over the ledge and we were practically in the clouds, so it closed up to the rocks underneath, making would not get light until the clouds lifted ; fast the rope to a piece of rock, with my and as there seemed to be no signs of that, face towards the precipice. I felt a jerk we decided to make a start. on the rope, and instinctively clutched it I picked out the route, and climbed and gave it a tug, thinking that I was just on to the first finger-shaped pinnacle of helping Robertson to get a footing; but rock and over the highest part of the after we got off the precipes Murrell in- ridge, despite the effort of the howling formed me that Robertson had slipped gale to blow me off. It was necessary to over the ledge, and was in the act of fall- crawl along slowly in one narrow, loose ing down the precipice when I gave the part; but before going far we were able to tug. Murrell said he had a good grip of climb on the west side of the ridge, and the rope, and it was taut, but that I en- found a hole between the ice and the rock, abled Robertson to clutch the rocks at the where we sheltered from the wind and right time and save his weight falling on rain. While resting we discussed the the rope. We climbed closer to the huge chance of getting across the avalanche thumb of rock after this than we did go- track, because we had heard a very large ing up, and found the rock climbing much avalanche fall during the night. We de- more difficult, but there were no loose cided to climb near the mountain, as we stones and the rock was good. One or should be taking less risk if a serac fell, two awkward bits of cracks and overhang- because we would only have perhaps two ing ledges gave us trouble, but the wind or three blocks of ice to get out of the was blowing rain at us, and enabled us to way of ; but by climbing across the ava- cling to almost any scanty place. It was lanche two miles away from the moun- with a sigh of relief that we recognized tain the ice would have time to break into the tins where we had lunch the previous thousands of pieces, and each piece would day, and we were not long in seeking have the chance of hitting us. Climbing shelter from the rain and wind. We en- along the ridge again, we were going well deavored to follow our tracks on the snow 246 THE MID-PACIFIC alongside the but when we came to nearly all the crevasses. Continuing our where the steep snow slopes had been dur- way, we ran down into the basin of the ing the ascent, there was nothing but a glacier and a little way up the other side, wide crack between the rocks at the base feeling so delighted to be out of trouble. of the ridge and the glacier (an enormous The mist soon surrounded us again, and berghsehrund). This made it difficult to we had to climb carefully along to get on get on the tracks, and it took us a long to the top of a snow slope, which we tack- way out of our course to find a way across led with some care, as we were not certain it. Large crevasses had opened up in all what effect the continuous rain would directions, and we could only see them have on the slope and the snow bridge. We when we were about to walk into them, so found the snow bridge and the serac con- it was a case of trying to get along in any necting the slope with the snow bridge in direction to get away from the ridge and very good condition, and, climbing with on to the glacier. I made out on to the fair speed, we were soon down on the glacier, and then up in the direction my steep part, and were pleased to find that bump of location guided Me, and although the steps were, if anything, better than we did not get up near enough to climb when we climbed up. We made all haste under the seracs, we found the steps and off the slope and down to the bivouac, abandoned the idea of getting nearer the where we boiled soup and packed the wet mountain, deciding to take the risk of the kit, and reached the Head camp by 3 p. m. widepart of the avalanche. I was feeling Owing to the heavy rain, we lit the fire at rather confident of finding the way after the ten door, and I dried the things in- the practice on this mountain—up to the stead of letting the fire out, in which case bivouac in a dense fog, and off the moun- we would have been frozen, there being tain from a height of 8000 feet, and re- only one blanket between us, as the damp- gaining our steps; so predicted that I ness made it seem colder than it really was. would bring the party out across the ava- At 3 a. m. I woke up Murrell, and he lanche on to our steps at the other side. continued to look after the fire and dry the Although we had left no snow marks things. I had been without sleep for 70 on these huge blocks of ice, I took a zigzag hours, having been 41 hours from this course, and floundered over the loosely- camp on the mountain. The same after- poised blocks of ice, evading those that noon we picked our way through bush in seemed loosely filling a crevasse; but my heavy rain with swags of over 40 pounds, confident prediction came out right, and and had quite a lively time ; and we found we actually landed on the steps where they the river very much in flood, making it entered the avalanche. During the cross- necessary to rope, and jump one or two ing we thought we heard a crack, as awkward bounders. I jumped one, but the though another ice fall was about to take swag made me sway too much forward, place, but as we did not see any blocks of and jerked the rope, with the result that I ice flying about or any other report, we was pulled back, and to save myself falling continued to trust to Providence. I have into the main current I let one leg fill crossed many tracks of avalanches before, into a hole between, two boulders, and just but only a few yards—not a mile across like managed to save being sucked into the hole. this. The mist lifted just long enough to This was a finish to the wettest moun- let us take our bearings, and it made us tain climb I have ever been engaged in. thankful we had missed a puzzle ground We were wet nearly all the time, and of crevasses, which we would not have had half way down to the main camp we had the slightest chance of ever getting out of. to rope again and balance ourselves on a We paused by a bluff of rock, feeling the slender tree by the aid of a pole on the bot- climb was nearly over, as we had passed tom, in order to cross first on to a large THE MID-PACIFIC 247

boulder into the middle, and afterwards the side to climb to get on to the same pull the tree on to the stone, push it across serrated ridge and precipices that we the other part of the stream, and repeat the climbed, but it will need some very good Blondin business. Once across this, we climbing. The west branch of Aspiring had no streams of consequence to cross. (the way the only two parties have Further climbing was out of the question, climbed the mountain) will give any well- and as the food was nearly gone I left equipped party as much adventure as they camp and made for Macpherson's with the desire, and as much new ground as they intention of going up the east branch of can hope to cover in many trips. There the river Matukituki, which I did, and are many first-class virgin peaks, clothed climbed a bush-covered peak beyond the near their summits with ice slopes and camp, called Disappointment Camp ( so glaciers, which will make them formidable called by Captain Head owing to the last climbs; while the river difficulty in the month's attempt -on the east side, beginning valley will always keep a party interested and ending at this camp), the party being as to whether they will get out of the unable to do anything for continuous bad valley when they want to leave, or have weather. to stay a week or two to wait for the Besides climbing this peak by a track rivers to go down. If the road was made better it would not be necessary to cross that had been blazed by Captain Head's so many times a river which is full of party, I also waded the stream to get quicksands and waterholes. photographs, but was not very successful, This district should be developed, as it although I took one or two of the east is the most beautiful mountain district in side of Aspiring. The east side will be New Zealand.

.4 New Zealand Glacier. 248 THE MID-PACIFIC

4. 4.

Until January of 1915 when the Trail and Mountain Club led 101 men across the island of Maui thru Haleakala crater, few had ever made the trip, our young writer was one of the guides, and all of the party got thru safely. Near the Summit, Haleakala.

Exploring a Volcano

By JACK WALKER. (The Youngest Guide in Hawaii.)

AUI is not a big island, and I friends to the summit of Haleakala to see live on one side of it near the the sun set and then the sun rise the next M beach, but in eight hours on my morning, and be back at Paia in time for horse I can be more than ten thousand school. feet above the ocean, and in another eight I don't think any school boys in the hours I can be standing by the ocean on world have more real fun out of life than the other side of the island. I live at we do here on the Island of Maui, for as Paia, and when the members of the Trail you see, we can be swimming in the surf in and Mountain Club come over to Maui to the morning with the thermometer perhaps go up to the top of Haleakala and then as high as eighty, and the water always 76 down into the crater, being the youngest degrees, and that night we can be two member of the club and having had plenty miles higher in the air, where the water of time to camp in Haleakala crater and freezes I think every night in the year. explore it, I am usually the guide, because Sometimes I have camped in the crater I know most of the members. If we have of Haleakala for a week at a time, and the good horses and take an auto to Olinda, bed of this crater is eight thousand feet which is twelve miles from the railway above the sea; it is a great big sandy val- station and about four thousand feet eleva- ley seven miles long and three miles wide. tion, I can leave after school, take my There are great big mountains of sand

4 -M.P. 249 250 THE MID-PACIFIC

The famous Silver Sword of Haleakala Crater. that are old volcanic cones, some of them members of the Trail and Mountain Club eight hundred feet high, with grass and with me not long ago, and all of our the beautiful silver-sword growing inside horses were pretty much used up, and mine of their craters, and here we hunt the wild died. It is a trip anyway that should be goat, as we like fresh meat. made on foot because now the Trail and I am not quite fourteen years of age. I Mountain Club has a rest house every think I know every part of Haleakala ten miles along the road and the trail, and Crater, although some people do get lost, you can get a meal or a night's lodging for especially when there is a fog, but now I fifty cents, so you don't have to pack any- know the way by foot or on horseback thing but your canteen and a little bit of entirely around the island. It takes four food going through the crater. days to ride around the Island of Maui. There were just three of us when we You go on a horse to the top of Haleakala started out from Paia on horseback to see Crater, then down through the crater to how long it would take to make the trip, what is called Kaupo Gap to the sea on and, to mark the places where we intended the other side. Then you have to climb to establish rest houses and where we are up and down the coast mountains on the ging to put up sign posts. We left Paia steepest kind of horse trails for seven miles about lunch time with two horses and a before you get to a road ; then after you mule. We called the mule "Regulator" have ridden on this road for a day there because he regulated the speed of our is no more road, and you have only a trail horses and kept us from foundering them. high up in the mountains, and this is an- By three o'clock we had come to the end other day's ride before you get to the road of the road to Olinda, nearly a mile higher that takes you back to Paia. I don't think up in the air than when we started. I will ever let any horse of mine do it Olinda, or Idlewild, where the regular in four days again, because I took two tourists take horses for the climb to the THE MID-PACIFIC 251

On the way thru Haleakala.

summit, is the last place where you can and we got into the little stone rest house, get anything to eat, or where you can sleep it got colder and colder, and the wood we in a real house until you get to the sea on had brought up from the forest line a mile the other side of the crater, but at the below was wet, and there wasn't much of summit of Haleakala a good rest house is it, and then our blankets were wet, and being built, and will soon be completed. our clothes were wet, and we were wet, so It is eight miles by the horse trail from we all went to bed wet and tired to sleep Olinda to the summit, but if you wish to close together to keep warm, but when we walk there is a short cut that makes it only got up in the morning there was a thin five miles, and for a man I think it is coating of ice on the water we had left more satisfactory to walk, because some outside, and the horses were shivering, and horses do not like the thin air and before so were we. When the new rest house they get to the top they break down. It is finished there will be oil stoves and real is a beautiful ride, especially as you look beds and something to eat, and we shall back at the great cane fields below you come back. My! how the wind blew! and the mountains of West Maui across Sometimes it blows sixty miles an hour up the valley, and the sea all around. here, and the old corrugated iron roof of It was dark before we got to the top of the rest house once sailed through the air a the mountain, so Gilbert, our chief guide, dozen miles before it landed far down the ran on ahead to get the fire started in the mountain side. We stood up against the old stone rest house on the mountain, be- wind to look out for the sun rise, but we cause a man can go much faster up Hale- didn't stand long. The Trail and Moun- akala than a horse can. When we got to tain Club is going to build a round tower the summit the clouds had settled down, with heavy plate glass port holes so that and it was like a great thick fog, but I people can stand on the edge of the crater knew the trail, and we kept calling and at on any morning and see the sun rise. last Gilbert answered. When the sun set, The sun rises over the other side of the we felt as though we were on an island Island of Hawaii, where there are two with the greatest billows around us that snow-peaked mountains nearly fourteen anyone could imagine, but after the sun set, thousand feet high, that peep up through 252 THE MID-PACIFIC the clouds. The clouds change to all the water hole that I knew must be near, and colors of the rainbow as they float across soon we found the little gulch and a trail the sea toward the Island of Maui, then leading up to rocks where the water trick- they strike the sides of Haleakala, and les down into a big basin, and here we some of them pour in through a gap on the filled the old kerosene tins with water and other side, and others just climb up the side brought drinks to our horses, then let them of the crater and fall over like a great go and feed on the tough bunch grass on waterfall until the great high hills in the the floor of the crater while we gathered bottom of the crater become islands, and twigs and made a fire for our lunch. It is then they disappear, and soon the clouds in not far from the water hole to what is call- the crater rise to our feet, then they sweep ed Bubble Cave. This was discovered by down the mountain side and spread out Dr. Aiken of Maui while he was out goat over the cane fields. It is a very beautiful shooting. The goat he was chasing disap- sight, and each time I come up Haleakala, peared and he could not find it, but a few I think it is more beautiful. days later when he renewed his search he As soon as we had seen the sun rise, we found a hole in the lava two or three feet began to get our horses ready, for it was across and below was a cave about twenty very cold and soon we were riding along feet across in the shape of a bubble, and in the trail that leads by the ledge of the this cave was a goat, half eaten, and a crater over the rough lava. Here and there dead wild dog. The goat had dropped into we could see the black diamonds glistening the cave and the dog had followed, but he in the sun. There are millions of these could not jump out again and died of black diamonds. They were thrown up I thirst. Now the cave is used for sleeping don't know how long ago, when Haleakala quarters by those who visit the crater. The was an active volcano. We had to ride floor is covered with ferns and it is a very more than a mile over this rough lava until comfortable place and quite warm. we came to one end of the crater, where It was one o'clock in the afternoon when there is a gap and a great sloping hill of we turned our horses' heads toward Kaupo sand called the sliding sands, and down Gap and began to leave the crater. There this you ride to the bottom of the crater, were two great lava flows of about a and now the mountains in the bottom of hundred years ago, and just a narrow trail the crater that look like ant hills from the between these, and this we had to follow. top, began to tower very far above you, and At the end of two hours we were right soon you are riding through a wonderful among the mountains of the Gap. There new country. are precipices thousands of feet high and It was warm again now, and we amused waterfalls that drop hundreds and hundreds ourselves riding sometimes to the tops of of feet, sometimes thirty or forty of these the smaller craters and looking down into tumbling over the precipice of one gulch or the great pits that were once active. On valley. As we passed out of the crater we the side of the Great Crater toward the entered a forest of magnificent trees, and sea there was some foliage, and at one place nearby a great lake of water, and here we are going to put up one of our rest houses. where we did not have to climb more than Then there was the long ride down through six or seven hundred feet, we ran up ledges gulches and over sloping ridges to the sea. of rock and were soon looking down nearly When he had ridden for hours and came nine thousand feet to the lava flows and at last to what we thought was a little sea below. It was a magnificent sight and ridge near the beach, we found that when taught us something of the geography of we did get a glimpse of the sea that it was the island. Then we began looking for the several thousand feet below and several THE MID-PACIFIC 253 miles away, and the sun was setting low in rest house near Kaupo, and will not again the heavens; so we just kept our tired have to rely on the hospitality of strangers. horses going and going down hill all the We were tired and slept, then rode on time until at last at dusk we came to a around the island, but as Mr. Rudyard ranch house and its friendly owner, and Kipling used to say—"That's another here we spent the night ; but now we have a story."

In Haleakala Crater. 254 THE MID-PACIFIC

Ideal is the life of the poorer Japanese student in Japan, for he cannot afford the modern European style building, now everywhere in Japan. He must live in the house of Old Japan—a thing of beauty forever. In a Japanese Laboratory.

The Life of the Japanese Student

By KIYOSHI SAKAMOTO.

T IS indisputable that, while Japan of education throughout the length and has made wonderful progress in the breadth of the Empire. I past ten years in all respects, her ad- It is said that the total number of the vance has been especially marked in re- students in Tokyo, whose school expenses gard to education. Notably, there has are entirely defrayed by their parents, is been a widespread education in English, between one and two hundred thousand. for few persons can now be found in even The remarks has been made concerning the lower classes who do not understand us: "Usually the Japanese student is a the English alphabet. Schools of all kinds workman. Many of them are porters at have increased in number year by year in night ; others sell milk or newspapers." I this country, and many students from should say this is a great mistake. Those China, Korea, and Nepal come over to who are supporting themselves by such Japan in order to prosecute their studies. labor form a very small percentage of the We Japanese are all agreed that our vic- students. A stranger visiting Japan, and tories were chiefly due to the popularity taking a stroll about the streets in the

255 256 THE MID-PACIFIC evening, will find some students in rusty ally gentle and mild. They regard self- suits, badly faded and worn, who stand control as the most important part of by a post or corner of the street, with cultivation. Since the Western sports— newspapers in hand, and shout : "Today's football, lawn tennis, baseball—have been papers, one sen each ! Come buy, come introduced in the Empire, these games buy!" Or, early in the cold morning, he are nowadays in great vogue among the may find some students in brown suits, students, who are deriving much profit with bells ringing at their waist, who are from them. There is one thing more to going to distribute bottles of milk before be remarked as a characteristic of the the school begins. These are what in Japanese student. He is generally so skill- Tokyo we call hugakusei—students who ful in manual work that Japan is called earn their living by labor. Again, it has by foreigners the "Oriental home of art." been said : "The Japanese student studies At present the students in Tokyo may more in order to get rich than from any be said to be assembled in the two wards pure love of study." This is indeed no Kanda and Hongo, the Latin Quarters other than the comment of a superficial of Japan. In the former, many different observer. In Japan the special schools for secondary institutions and educational industry or commerce are annually in- buildings are in existence. In the latter creasing in number, and this I take to be ward the Imperial University and the merely the result that would follow the High School are situated. Secondhand development of any country. Many book stores and boarding houses line the students are anxious to enter these streets in both the wards, and nearly 80 schools, where the principle "Non scholae per cent of all the frequenters of these sed vitae docemus" is practised. But we parts of the city are said to be students. must not forget to say that most of our The Higher Normal College is a train- middle school graduates are so desirous to ing college or teachers' institute, under enter the High Schools, the preparatory the control of the Educational Depart- course to the University, that there is now ment, and its course extends over a period a crying need to increase the number of of four years. The graduates have to be- these institutions in order to accommodate come teachers in the middle schools for a all the candidates. And it is evident that certain number of years. if students are merely ambitious to succeed or become rich they had better enter the The schools in Tokyo have each a Higher Commercial or Industrial Schools, school game. For example, Waseda Uni- where the graduates' prospects of the ac- versity is famous for baseball. The complishment of such an object are the Waseda nine went over the sea to the brighter. Then what makes them wish to United States, where they played matches enter the High Schools or University? with Stanford University and others. Our This is, at least, because of the pure love school, being the first that introduced ten- of study, is it not ? nis to the Empire, carries the honor of The Japanese students generally devote being called "the father of tennis in Ja- to study the period from seven years of pan," and the champions of our college age to twenty-eight or so. In Japan, as are so earnest in their practice and so skill- is known, every man in the Empire is ful in the art that there can hardly be required to serve as a soldier at the con- found any equals to them in Tokyo. scription age (twenty-one years of age), Every autumn the great tournament be- but the student is exempted from this tween the Commercial College and the obligation as long as he is studying in Higher Normal College is contested, and some school. Japanese students are gener- what a great number of spectators crowd THE MID-PACIFIC 257 on the occasion to watch those games with night before, and I had feared the day could breathless interest ! not possibly be clear. Oh, what a blessing! The students of this college are com- While we were going, a friend, passing by pelled to live in the dormitory. The me, suddenly cried out: "Mount Fuji has ap- college usually begins at 8 a. m. and closes peared. What a sacred and noble mountain it is !" Then our eyes were gladdened with this at 3 p. m. Every morning, when it is lovely sight, so dear to our hearts. It stood up almost time for lessons to begin, the bugle majestically, partly covered, as usual, with blast sounds through the building. On silvery white snow; and, charmed by the sight, hearing this, the students, with books I was long oblivious to all else. Soon we went under their arms, make for the class- up a slope, and turned in the direction of a rooms from the dormitory. The college narrow lane, where stood a school. From this curriculum provides for instruction in six place the scene became gradually rural, and subjects — pedagogy, English, Japanese how pleasing to my eyes was the quiet and classics, history, ethics, and philosophy. reposeful viewoof the thatched straw roofs, ac- customed as I have been to the heavy tiled We have many professors, more than roofs of the ctiy! After having gone some eighty of them. After school, some of the distance, I found myself with a light breeze students go to the library; some play foot- softly fanning my face, and I thought how ball or tennis . merrily; some, making a happy and contented I should be could I spend happy group here and there, stroll round every summer vacation in such a spot! the school grounds; but by five o'clock in Thus we arrived at the shrine-ground, in the evening they all return to the dor- which the opening ceremony of the expedition mitory, and are deep in the preparation of party was to be held. At this time Director the morrow's lessons. Twice a year the and a few professors delivered interesting diversion occurs of an expedition, to which speeches, amid great clapping of hands, after the students eagerly look forward. In or- which we had a nice luncheon. Then I visited der that I may give you a fair idea of the grave of Yoshida Shoin. Ah, what a heroic man he was ! According to Robert one of these expeditions, I propose to quote Stevenson, he was a military engineer, a poet, here an extract from my diary, which is a patriot, a schoolmaster, a friend to learning, translated as follows :— a martyr to reform. There are not many men, MAY 15TH, 1906.—Early in the morning I dying at seventy, who have served their coun- was suddenly awakened by the clatter of bowls try in such various characters ! Failing in his and the sound of sipping soup, and the cries great enterprises, he was condemned to death "Mr. Cook, let me have some pickles !" or by the Government, but his ideas gave a "More tea, please!" Just then a friend came strong stimulus to the civilization of our coun- into my room and said: "Goodness ! still in try. Recollecting his pathetic life, and expres- bed ? The first bell has already rung. Get sing my sincere sympathy with him, I could up, we shall make a delightful excursion to- not indeed prevent the moisture from streaming day." "Excursion? Is the weather fine? All into my eyes. right, I will get up immediately," was my Suddenly a blast of the bugle sounded, which reply. was the signal for assembly, and then we en- Now everything calls for extreme haste. At joyed hearing very interesting and amusing seven, in company with K. and 0., I left our addresses delivered by volunteer members of dormitory for the opposite side of the Imperial our Ko-dan-Kwai (Lecture Society). After this Crown Prince's Palace at Akasaka, at which followed an exhibition of sword-dancing by place all we students were ordered to gather. Mr. Raifu Hibino, a celebrated nlaver. At 4 Fortunately I succeeded in reaching there at p. m. these entertainments finished, amid great half-past seven by aid of the tram-car, and at applause and hand-clapping, after which we eight sharp, as previously planned, we left moved to adjourn the meeting, and took our there for the shrine at Setagaya dedicated to way home. Yoshida Shoin. The sky was very clear and The dormitory is indeed an enchanted bright, though a heavy rain had fallen the isle amid the storms of life. The student 258 THE MID -PACIFIC who is living here does not know the dormitory. These exercises are usually ruling price of rice, nor how severe are held in the afternoon, piles of wood being the waves of life. At six in the morning erected, on which petroleum is poured. the rising bell rings, and the weary sound The fire is then kindled in the school of yawns comes from the hitherto quiet grounds, while the warning bell begins to bedchamber. Then the dormitory presents ring. It is very amusing to see the students a lively aspect, as some of the students run in great confusion to their various are folding up their bed-clothes, and others positions—some to the pump ; some, with opening the closets to store them awAy. an extinguisher in hand, for the scene of Already some are making for the lavatory, the fire; some to the rooms, to carry out and then the doors of all the rooms are the prepared luggage from the place of opened, and hungry puls make for the danger. After the fire is extinguished and dining hall, all in unspeakable confusion. the confusion is over, the Director gives a After twenty minutes or so; the students, short speech or a criticism on the day's one after the other, leave the dining hall. operations. A 8 p. m. the bell rings At eight the blast of the bugle rings for through the building to announce the be- the beginning of the school work, and all ginning of study. In our room, the mem- run to the entrance. Ten minutes later bers being all students of the English de- not a soul is found in the dormitory. partment, the following rule has been The chief superintendent of our dormi- made among ourselves:— tory is Professor Sakurai, by whom several To speak Japanese is strictly prohibited rules are laid down for our guidance. We from 8 a. m. to to. cannot go out without having on the school uniform, and we must be back by eight If any one happens to speak Japanese o'clock, except on a night preceding a holi- involuntarily he is punished by the other day. If anyone happens to violate the members on the spot. He must go at once rule he will be punished by the superin- to the lavatory and bring a bucketful of tendent. water, and next morning the member Tokyo being renowned for fires, the whose turn it is to sweep the room will be exercises of extinguishing fire are very saved the trouble. At ten we usually go often performed by the students of the to bed. Canoeing in the Big Canal

By GEORGE B. THAYER.

Shortly after the shower held up, a ters, among other deeds, after we had comfortable cot at the Y. M. C. A. got started, to get me a broad brimmed building and a refreshing shower bath, soft hat, that I felt it ungrateful to soon lulled me into unconsciousness, the hold back. But I confess (other con- end of my first day in the torrid zone. fessions will be wrung from me as this Sunday morning I was up before 6. R. torrid trip is told forth) the combination E. Chatfield, son of Senator Chatfield of working my passage with a paddle, of New Haven, had arranged with Mr. along the glassy surface of a winding Ward of Cleveland, 0., to take me on a river, under an equatorial sun, all day, canoe trip down to the mouth of the somewhat dismayed me, especially after Chagres River. These two young men my experience with the heat the day are in one of the offices of the canal before. commission and do considerable canoeing However, Ward took the • gallon jar on the side. Ward's canoe was an of ice water and I helped out with the eighteen footer. I had never been in a paddles, luncheon, umbrella, etc. This canoe in my life and was but a poor was no time to look down into the locks swimmer, but Ward had so thoughtfully as we crossed over on the foot bridges, arranged things, going back to his quar- and, at 7:30, we were in the water.

259 260 THE MID-PACIFIC

Ducking low as we glided under a rail- through them as the canoe glided noise- road trestle and again the ducking act lessly along. under a big suction excavating pipe, we Many of the trees were also having soon confronted a thirty-foot railroad the life sucked out of them by orchids. embankment, over which the canoe had Whether, like the flea, they had "other to be carried. My bald head did not fleas to bite 'em and so on, ad in- furnish much of a cushion for the in- finitum" is uncertain, but I saw one verted canoe to rest upon, but never tree supporting its parasite, a tree six mind. The clay was still slippery from inches in diameter, and this tree, in the rain of the night before and I slip- turn, was supporting several orchids. ped back once or twice but did not drop Occasionally a dead tree, three or four my end. Once over the embankment feet in diameter, lying across the stream and into the Chagres River we put in made us duck low to get under. good steady work for an hour. Con- The specimens of animal life, to me, trary to Ward's warning, I went bare- were also new. A butterfly, with wings headed. That means I had no um- six inches from tip to tip, of one solid brella protection, for, as most young color, bright blue, floated lazily by. A canoeists know, it takes three hands to bumble bee, with body and wings fire paddle and at the same time hold up an red, lit close by me. Then there were ambrella. Frequently wetting my head the lively playful land lizards, from five with the warm brine kept me comfort- to fifteen inches in length and painted in able and what more could any one ask? solid green, mottled in rattlesnake yel- Ward said, however, to act as I did low and some other less disquieting col- was a violation of all rules of maritime ors. But the land crabs. I hardly conduct in the tropics, and he ought knew how to describe their effect upon to know. He had been canoeing down me. As I sat in the bow of the canoe, here for several years. After about quietly gliding along into the twilight of an hour he suggested taking a side trip the jungle, a rustling noise along the up the Indio River, a tributary of the bank was heard and at first flush, the Chagres. Ward wanted to show me whole bank seemed to be moving away. some alligators. So we turned up this The ground was so thickly covered with stream, which had little or no current. crabs, the mass was scarcely distinguish- I ceased paddling and sat in the bow able, except in color. Some were almost speaking, if at all, only in a low whis- white, others dark red but most of them per. The trees shut out every bit of were dark brown. Their bodies were sunlight and the air was delightfully perhaps four inches across but when cool. Occasionally a whiff of some their legs were all set in motion, which sweet odor floated by and there was was the case the instant the first one never any of the swampy smells so com- gave the alarm, the whole mass moved mon at home in the low lands. The up the bank, giving the eye the impres- trees, as I said, shut out the sunlight sion of some monstrous animal rising and well they might, for they rose out of the water. We went up the seventy-five to 100 feet above the river. river a mile or more and at every turn, Many of them were covered with vines masses of crabs moved away, with a whih followed the topmost branches out rustling noise, at our aproach. over the water and then, leaving the The skin and skeleton of an alligator trees entirely grew down to the very lying on a flat rock near the water surface of the river, seventy-five feet and the splash of a live one just ahead beneath, sending out into the water of us, as he slipped off into the water, strangling roots that were left dry or was as near as we came to making their submerged as the tide ebbed and flowed. acquaintance that Sunday. Fort Lo- These vines hung across our path like renzo, at the mouth of the Chagres Ri- a succession of Japanese portieres and ver, was, in itself, worth the trip. The it was up to me to make an opening old Spanish fort, still holding within its THE MID-PACIFIC 261 tumble-down walls, some 10,000 solid fruits. The varied songs of the num- shot, piled in pyramids after centuries berless birds added to the pleasure of of disuse, the village of natives having the trip, though in the middle of the among their pets a breed of hairless day their songs ceased entirely. dogs with skin as shiny as that of their When we got the canoe housed again masters ; the coconut grove, with the it was dark. With a familiar tread branches blown by the stiff sea breeze Ward led the way back across a net- till the tops looked like umbrellas turn- work of dumps, fills, trestles and tracks, ed wrong side out, leaving the coconuts for half a mile, till I knew we must be in clusters plainly exposed to view ; the nearing the big locks I had just glanced bathing beach, out of which, just before down into, during the morning. There were, as I began to recall them, plenty we went in, was taken a sea turtle as of holes and unprotected spots where a long and broad as a flour barrel ; these misstep would have dropped me into the and other interesting features of the dark, how far down I did not care to trip can only be touched upon. Going investigate, until, the unsteadiness of my and coming we made several landings legs, after the eighteen-mile trip, began and got a taste of rose apples, sweet to tell. 262 THE MID-PACIFIC

4. •:. •:. •:. .:. .:.

In Honolulu, Chinese are among the leading business men, but in carnival times they forget business for the pleasure of reviving those things that remind them of the old China that they left behind a generation ago. • The Chinese in Hawaii

By GEORGE CHARLES HULL.

HE date of the coming of the ican trader, sailed from Macao, China, in first Chinese to the Hawaiian Isl- 1789 for the northwest coast of America T ands, while not definitely recorded, in the snow Eleanor, mounting ten was somewhere about that strenuous time guns, with a crew of ten Americans and when Kamehameha the Great was weld- forty-five Chinese, and that the vessel ing together the islands into one kingdom, touched at the islands of Maui and Ha- although it is probable that Chinese trad- waii. ers visited the "Sandalwood Isles", as the When Vancouver returned on his final archipelago was known to them, before voyage in 1794, he writes that he found the conqueror was born. the foreign population of the Sandwich The earliest written records of Chinese Islands to consist of John Young, Isaac having been seen at the Hawaiian Islands Davis, Mr. Boid, one Chinese, and sev- are contained in Vancouver's Voyages. He eral renegade whites. He also learned mentions that Captain Metcalf, an Amer- that commercial relations had been es-

263 264 THE MID-PACIFIC tablished between the Hawaiian Islands hold. Some of them inter-married with and China, for Taiana, a high chief, had the natives with most favorable results. been to China' and there purchased fire From the first their presence added to the arms which were of great aid to Kame- character and stability of the population hameha I. in conquering the group and in these Islands, and they were generally binding the islands together under his so highly regarded that it was customary sway. for the Government to ask for their help The purchase of the firearms opened up and advice on important matters. the first foreign market for the few pro- The first Chinese to become a natural- ducts the Hawaiian Islands had to export, ized citizen of Hawaii was one Ah Sing such as sandalwood which was highly who was admitted in 1845, but the num- prized by the Chinese, who called the isl- ber grew slowly and the census of 1852 ands Tan Heong San, or sandalwood showed but seventy-one located here, al- country. In exchange for the precious though in '49 and '50, a number went and odorous wood, the Chinese bartered from Hawaii to California with other gold clothing and furniture, the first to reach seekers. the islands. Also they saw that it was a But in 1852 occurred the first real im- pleasant and undeveloped land and that migration to the Islands, a number of men, there were other products for which China women and children, arriving on the bark afforded a market. They saw that the Thetis. The majority of these were Hak- taro patches as cultivated by the Hawai- kas, with some from the Heung Shan dis- ians were admirably adapted to rice cul- trict. After this date they seemed to have ture, and they introduced that industry, dwindled in number, for the census of which flourished until annexation to the 1860 shows them so few that they were United States, and the consequent opera- reckoned with the natives. tion of the exclusion act, deprived the rice After this year the dearth of labor be- growers of labor. gan to be felt as the sugar industry was de- The Chinese too, were the founders of manding more hands, and we find that in the sugar making industry on the islands. 1865 Dr. William Hillebrand was named They found the cane indigenous, and it is royal commissioner of immigration and written that the first sugar mill was sent to China to procure labor. As a re- brought to Hawaii in 1802 by a Chinese sult of his mission, on September 23, 1865, for the purpose of establishing a sugar there arrived at the port of Honolulu 199 plantation. men, forty-three women, and eight chil- It was the Chinese who taught Kame- dren, to engage in agriculture. This was hameha the Great his first lesson in the the first assisted immigration of Chinese economics of government. During the to Hawaii. They were brought over king's trading adventures in the Orient under a five year contract to work, for he found his profits largely absorbed by which they were to have free passage port charges and import and export duties from China, four dollars per month as as levied in the ports of China. This wages; to be well supplied with comfort- gave him the idea and he was not long able lodgings, food, clothing, medical at- in establishing similar taxes in his own tention, and allowed Sundays and three country. Chinese holidays. At the expiration of During these early years of bartering the term of five years the laborer was free and trading, Chinese immigration to the to return to China or remain, as he saw islands slowly increased. Bringing with fit. them their sterling habits of industry and The first immigration from China was economy, they gradually acquired a foot- succeeded by several others. As their THE MID -PACIFIC 265

contracts expired, many returned to China, they are rarely charged with crimes, al- but a number made permanent lodgment though frequently arrested for gambling, in the country, engaging in rice culture for which they have an inborn love. which the Chinese instituted in the islands, Their tongs, or societies, are charitable and their services in the sugar field gave and benevolent institutions in every sense an immense impetus to that industry, for of the term. Tong wars like those which of all nationalities introduced as field break out on the mainland are unknown, hands, they are admittedly the best. and the tongs maintain no squads of paid So it is that the Chinese have always assassins, nor do they resort to murder in taken a leading part in developing two settlement of disputes. great industries of the islands,—rice and As laborers, the Chinese are industrious, sugar. Under them, rice growing, which obedient to their employers, display rare they engaged in on their own account, as- fidelity as servants, and are thrifty. sumed large proportions, and at one time Working for themselves, they develop there were more than 5000 engaged in it, the waste places, making a living where directly and indirectly. men of other races would die of starvation. Between 1852 and 1893, 33,000 Chi- For them no labor is too arduous if there nese arrived in Hawaii, and 19,000, or is a profit at the end. They are accustom- more than half, departed, this constituting ed to settling any individual difficulty a striking reply to the declaration that which may arise, without resorting to with the open door, or unrestricted immi- strikes and causing loss to other laborers gration, the country would be flooded with and employers. Chinese. During the period in question As merchants, the Chinese of Hawaii the door was ever open to them, and have exemplified the far-famed probity of they could arrive and depart without re- the race to the last degree. The firms of straint. They were always well treated other nationalities doing business in Ha- under the monarchial government and they waii are wont to take the bare word of enjoyed the same freedom as the citizens Chinese in business transactions, where of the most favored nations. with men of their own races, they require During the years of their immigration contracts and securities. to Hawaii, many of the Chinese brought And the Chinese have never betrayed their women with them, and this permitted the confidence reposed in them. There are of family life which had much to do wita instances where Chinese merchants have their true development. They were quick failed in business owing thousands of dol- to seize opportunities for education and lars in unsecured debts, and although not advancement, rising to the occasion to such compelled to pay, have uncomplainingly re- an extent, that although the majority of turned to menial labor and toiled for years them came from the same part of China as to pay back the last cent of indebtedness those on the mainland, visitors and travel- with interest, and then beginning again, ers from the United States have frequently have amassed a competence in their old remarked that the Chinese of Hawaii were age. of a superior class to those who went to One striking characteristic of the Chi- California. nese in Hawaii is their broad charity not As a class, the Chinese of Hawaii are only to those of their own race, but to the above all things, peace loving and law unfortunate of other nations. There are abiding. They rarely resort to law suits no Chinese beggars or vagrants. Thev and often times submit to flagrant in- have their own eleemosynary societies for justice rather than to become involved in the care of their aged and infirm. There legal disputes. As citizens and denizens, has been no world tragedy of recent years

5-M.P. 266 THE MID-PACIFIC

where financial aid was needed to which With their elders denied citizenship they have not contributed voluntarily and under the laws of the United States, the liberally. They raised thousands of dol- younger generation born in Hawaii, and lars for the San Francisco fire relief fund, so eligible to citizenship, have been slow and made a heavy contribution for the fic- to take advantage of their franchise rights, lief of the Titanic survivors. They afe although it is generally recognized, that the first to be appealed to, and the first to banded together they would wield a pow- answer with substantial aid when famines erful influence politically in the Territory, or floods ravage their own country. and would so be able to secure legislation They have erected Christian churcl.es of benefit to them. and temples of their own religion, and Despite their lack of interest in local have their own Chinese Young Men's politics, they are zealous partisans in the Christian Association. politics of their own country. Honolulu The Chinese of Hawaii are also dis- has aptly been styled the cradle of the tinguished for their great love of learning. Chinese Republic. Dr. Sun Yat Sen who Poor men consider no denial too great, was largely instrumental in bringing about and willingly dispense with the comforts the revolution which overthrew the Man- of life that their sons may have an educa- chu despotism, was brought up in Hawaii tion. They maintain nine fine private and was educated here, as were a number schools for the instruction of their chil- of other leaders in the revolution which dren in the Chinese classics and the ethics brought about the republic. The Chinese of their forefathers, but they send these of Hawaii had always been as one as re- children to the public schools and colleges gards the driving out of the Manchus and of Hawaii as well, and not content with the restoration of a pure Chinese govern- this, provide for their future education by ment, but they were divided as to whether sending them to the great universities and an empire under a Chinese ruler, or a re- technical schools of the mainland. Scores public should follow the overthrow of the of Chinese born in Hawaii have graduated usurpers. from the famous institutions of learning, However they made common cause in many of them as honor men, for they are aiding the revolution, contributing over diligent students and frequently excel $200,000 toward the war chest. The in- American and European students in the stitution of the republic with the subse- same classes. Several of these Hawaiian quent strife between the parties of Yuan born and educated Chinese hold high posi- Shihkai, now the president of the Chinese tions under the Chinese government and Republic, ana that of Dr. Sun Yat Sen, others are prominent in the professions. has continued the differences of opinion, The Chinese of Hawaii have three tri- but the prominent men of the colony are weekly newspapers—the Chee Y ow Shin convinced that the day is close at hand Bo, Hon Mun Bo, and the Sun Chung when all factions will unite to work for Quock Bo. These all are ably edited, giv- the good of their race not only in China ing the current news of the day, as well as but in Hawaii. the political views of the parties they rep- No better indication of the industry of resent. the Chinese can be found than the fact, Aside from the various clubs and so- that from the most humble beginnings, cieties, the Chinese have two powerful com- many have acquired beautiful and com- mercial organizations, the Chinese Mer- fortable homes which in all respects are chants' Association of which Chu Gem on a par with those of the most cultivated is president, and Goo Kim Fook, vice presi- persons of other races. Pianos and other dent, and the United Chinese Society of musical instruments are found in their which Wong Leong is president. homes and many of their sons and daugh- THE MID -PACIFIC 267 ters are accomplished musicians. They second fire took place in 1900 when be- are patrons of the arts, acquiring paint- cause of an outbreak of plague, the torch ings and statuary, and are constant in at- was ordered applied to infected buildings. tendance at the theaters. The flames could not be controlled, and The young people excel in outdoor the entire district was again wiped out. sports, more particularly baseball. The Claims for losses in this fire aggregated All-Chinese baseball team which, has but $3,167,132, and the commission which recently returned from a tour of the adjusted and paid claims from a con- United States, established a record for gressional appropriation allowed $1,473,- the number of games won in comparison 173 of the amount claimed. with those lost, opening the eyes of the While the number of Chinese paying mainlanders as to the position of the Chi- taxes on real estate is but 621, the lowest nese in Hawaii, and doing excellent pro- of any nationality, the assessed value of motion work for the Territory at large. their real proeprty is given at $1,171,862. The number of Chinese paying taxes on The Chinese of Hawaii cut a large personal property is placed at 1,606, and figure in the commercial life of the Ter- the assessed value at $2,262,613, almost ritory. Twenty years ago they held 91 equal to the assessed value of the personal per cent of the butcher licenses of the city, property of 1,721 Anglo-Saxons, and far 62 per cent of the retail merchandise, 23 above that paid by those of any other per cent of the wholesale licenses and 84 nationality exceeding them in numbers. per cent of the restaurants. But since that The Chinese in Hawaii, through their period these percentages have been ma- intimate connection with the development terially reduced with the Chinese popula- of the country since the dawn of its civili- tion which has fallen away fifty per cent zation, and the high reputation which they since 1800, numbering in 1910 but 21,674, have always borne as citizens and denizens of which 7,195 were native born. It is of Hawaii, have the respect and sympathy estimated that the decrease since this cen- of the residents of other races, to the ex- sus has cut down the total number of tent that for the most part they have Chinese in the Islands to 18,000. ceased to think of them as aliens and have Twice devasted by fires in which the at various times extended their aid to the Chinese merchants were the principal vic- Chinese residents in their hitherto un- tims, Chinatown presents a busy and pros- availing efforts to secure a modification of perous appearance. The first fire in 1886 the exclusion laws as regards the Hawaiian wiped out the Chinese quarter with a loss Islands, and an abatement of the indigni- estimated at $1,500,000, upon which the ties inflicted on them by the rigorous en- aggregate insurance was $228,500. The forcement of these statutes. 268 THE MID-PACIFIC

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The Adelaide Way

By JOSEPH B. STICKNEY.

j VERY morning at ten o'clock a ing and afternoon a car leaves the Tourist twenty seater char-a-bans called Bureau with every seat taken. F at the Tourist Bureau office in We started out thru the city of Ade- Adelaide, prepared to take a load of tour- laide and the first place of interest en- ists for a day's trip among the Mt. Lofty countered was almost around the corner Range. This morning I was to be guest from the starting point, the East End as a representative of THE MID-PACIFIC market. Outside of this market hundreds MAGAZINE, and on that account was given of carts were lined up waiting to receive a seat next to the driver, where I could their supplies and sell them thruout the see everything and at the same time get in- city. It wasn't long, however, before we formation from my companion. were out of town and began pulling up The popularity of these Government hill, and as we rounded ascending curves Tourist Bureau char-a-banc trips is demon- to my heart's delight. We passed by the strated by the fact that every day, morn- State Reform School, which I mistook for

269 270 THE MID-PACIFIC

obtained, and soon I was enjoying the trip pulled up before a woolen mill and re- excellent views of beautiful Adelaide were quested the manager to have us shown a rich man's large and beautiful residence, thru it. He did so and I enjoyed the ex- with its pretty, well-cultivated gardens, and perience of an hour in an Australian fine looking house. Far up on the top of woolen mill. We saw the whole process: a hill could be seen the magnificent resi- how the raw wool is washed and combed, dence of the Governor of South Australia, how it passes thru several rollers and is and a very comfortable place it looked too. drawn into thread, and then woven into I was very much surprised to learn that blankets and rugs. It was an interesting the Governor comes down to the city every and novel experience, and the entire char- morning in his automobile, for he is an a-banc party enjoyed it immensely. A few elderly man and the house is a good dis- miles past Lobethal we halted for lunch tance away from the city. prepared for us in a comfortable looking Higher and higher we climbed and the hotel at Woodside. Here a well-cooked view became more beautiful as we as- wholesome meal awaited us which was well cended. Adelaide surrounded by its pretty worth the price—two shillings, and I cer- system of parks lay just below us now, and tainly did not eat a sparing lunch. After a little to the right we saw Port Adelaide lunch we kept on, stopping at places to rest, River winding in and out among the trees. or to buy delicious fruit grown within ten We passed trees literally covered with yards of our char-a-banc. We passed by luscious plums, and I remarked to the donkeys carrying great bundles of the bark driver that the people of South Australia of the wattle, commonly called "Stringey certainly had brought the cultivation of bark." This bark is very valuable for fruit down to a science. tanning. We had reached as high an alti- "That's so, we have", he replied, "but tude as we were to go, and now began to those trees that you see there are not culti- descend. We could see the monument vated, they are growing wild." that marks the top of Mt. Lofty a short "Doesn't some one own them?" I asked. distance away. We were then about 2400 "Yes", he replied, "but the owner has feet above sea level and about twenty miles let them grow wild; just wait till you see from Adelaide. The scenery changed some higher up that are cultivated." every mile or so and we didn't have time I waited, and the plums he introduced to get tired. On some country trips the me to were the finest that I have ever set roads are so bad that the journey cannot be eyes or teeth upon. We stopped and I properly enjoyed ; but not so with this picked a few, and they tasted as good as trip for the roads were hard and firm, and they looked, so what wonder that I became for the entire way without dust. more and more in love with South Austra- Presently we were descending from the lian fruit. We passed by orchard after mountains, entered the outskirts of Ade- orchard of peaches, apples, pears, plumb, laide, and soon pulled up in front of the and trees burdened with cherries. The Tourist Bureau, all of us just a wee bit driver told me that the cherries were thick- tired, but from the looks on our faces. er this year than ever before, but they were there was no mistaking but that we were too small and there was a small market for all happy and satisfied. them. These mountains, as soon as the Of course we saw Adelaide, coming and wattle and blue gum are cleared away, be- going, and I think I can safely say that it come natural orchards, and no better frui. would be hard to pick out anywhere irt is produced anywhere in the world. the world a more beautiful and admirably At noon we stopped just outside of a laid out city. It is a city in the midst of a pretty little German town, Lobethal. We beautiful system of parks, and no matter THE MID-PACIFIC

Looking down from Mt. Lofty. what street you look down, at the end of inent places aboard ship, telling about the that street is a park. The streets are well char-a-banc trips to be made while the paved and motor enthusiasts are encour- steamer is in port, giving the time they aged to purchase cars to use on the excel- leave, etc. There is a man always there to lent roads that extend for miles in every answer any question concerning these trips, direction from Adelaide. The Tourist or to plan for others that niight prove de- Bureau is in a large degree responsible for sirable, for besides two char-a-bancs, this these hard, free-from-dust roads, for the up-to-date Tourist Boureau has six motor Adelaide Government Tourist Bureau, cars that are always at the service of with the possible exception of the one in tourists. The fare for all day trip I took Sydney, is the best conducted in Australia in the char-a-banc among the Lofty moun- so far as actually taking care of the tourist, tains was 6 shillings, which is remarkably and the Australian is concerned, and in cheap considering the long enjoyable ride every way it looks out for the comfort of that is secured. Near Adelaide is the the tourist. In the large exhibition room largest wine cellar in the world, and this of this Tourist Bureau there are exhibits is passed, or can be inspected by the pas- of fruit and other South Australian pro- sengers on the char-a-banc, besides the ducts from every part of the State, and wonderful vineyards about Adelaide. Olive these are arranged artistically so as to at- groves abound and some magnificent crops tract the eye. There are three or four are secured by the growers. Tourists when clerks behind the counter always ready to first arriving in Adelaide are usually struck give courteous information to tourists and with the admirably arranged Railway Sta- visitors. This live Tourist Bureau wishes tion at one end of busy, yet attractive King to secure the tourist and reaches out for William Street. This station is splendidly him. When a large passenger steamer ar- ventilated and is free from the disagree- rives at Port Adelaide, a man is sent down able smells that usually pervade large rail- to the wharf to meet the passengers. way stations ; and the railway station is Placards and posters are hung up in prom- typical of Adelaide.

272 THE MID-PACIFIC

• SITSIK AR O,i EUROPE 1

CHANGCHUN • • I RIN

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U • HIROSHIMA --D , SHIMONOSEKI ,_--0,,TO 100 "i t7 ,,,, cf2, K U • II; 6J1 0 SHANGHAI • r0Su • ° BEPPU NAGASAN Itp.

o 7 --- DO U. 4_.. • AGOSHIIIA/ /1

Since Japan has taken a firm hold in Korea and Manchuria, she has built railroads equal to those in any country. The map will show where these completed railways are located. 'Is indicated there is now thru connection with Europe, even from Shanghai. A Korean Railway Station.

In Old Korea

By KIRK S. GILBERT. •

s a field for foreign trade, I be- wadded for warmth. The market is sup- lieve that Korea might offer an plied with bolts of a width of 12 inches, A opportunity for development this width being most popular and in unsurpassed by any of the other fact the only saleable one because of the countries of the Orient. fact that it simplifies suit making, it tak- This conviction is based on an expe- ing a certain number of these widths to rience covering several years, during make the Korean suit. This simplifies which time I have been engaged in min- not only the matter of making, but also ing engineering in this strange country. the computation of the probable cost of The demands of the Korean market the material. This last consideration is possess the advantage of being simple. a strong one to the mind of the thrifty, Cotton goods, cheap in price but of good shrewd Korean. serviceable quality, have an immense Another large commodity is coal oil. sale in the country. The national dress, One sees thousands of casks of the oil worn almost without exception, is made being carried through the country on entirely of cotton (except among the packhorses at all seasons of the year. better class where silk is substituted). There is an almost unlimited field for In winter the jacket and trousers are the development of power rice mills.

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Rice, as is well known, is the staple food day eleven inches of rain fell in ten and an almost unbelievable quantity is hours. It is frequently the case during used. The great bulk of this is milled in this period of the year that travelers are small hand-power mills. held up for days at one of the smaller On the lower coast of Korea there is rivers, insignificant in size until the vis- very little timber, but along the Yalu itation of the heavy rains. I have seen river, on what was formerly the Russian a river that was only forty feet wide one concession, there is an unlimited supply. week and that was two miles from shore This is but a distance of two hundred to shore the next. miles from Chennampoo and only two It would perhaps be of interest to hundred and fifty from Chemulpo. With prospective dealers with this country to these factors we have all the elements of know something about its people, their immense and successful saw mills. habits, mode of dress, their life, their And now I am about to refer to what customs. I consider the most important feature First let me say that the foreign mer- of any estimate of the possibilities of chant will find them, like all Orientals, Korea as a field for energy and ingenu- shrewd and very hard to do business ity. This, in short, is the mining indus- with. They are perfectly willing (I was try. At the present time this is almost about to say glad) to argue for hours completely undeveloped. The greater over a matter of a few pennies. As a part of the country, even where it is very matter of fact, whether they do it will- nearly certain that large quantities of ingly or gladly, it is a universal practice gold exist, is unprospected even. And and a national trait. The only satisfac- yet I am perfectly willing to go on rec- tory, the only possible way of doing any ord as saying that Korea will eventually amount of business with them is to say, be one of the greatest gold mining coun- shortly and brusquely, "Take it or leave tries in the world. I am sure there will it." If the Korean wants the article he come a time when the world will wake will come back in a few hours and pay up to a sensational rush to the gold fields you your price. If he does not, lie will of Korea that will rival the scrambles of not trouble you again. It is not on rec- Forty-nine. ord that any foreigner ever "argued" a Of course, it must be understood that Korean into paying his price. this is entirely dependent upon the open- The Korean is unwilling to sell his ing of the country to the world. Under wares to the foreigner at the same price he the present order of things very little can charges the native purchaser. Rather than be prophesied. A mining concession do that he will miss the sale. It makes no held by an American company, covering difference to the native merchant if you a territory twenty-five by twenty-five miles in the Wunsan district has shown stand nearby and watch him sell his wares the deposit to be made up almost entire- for five cents in gold to the Koreans, the ly of gold. Many millions of dollars price to you is eight cents and he will not worth of gold has been taken out. take less, no matter how strenuously you The labor problem at the mines, is no may protest that he is robbing you. problem at all. Men can be obtained at The people are simple folks, harmless a ridiculously low price, a first-class and quiet. They live a round of life miner receiving but 25 cents a day and that, to a white person, would savor of other help in proportion. One of the the monotonous. Apparently they have drawbacks to the establishment of any no cares and no worries and the sum business in this country (and there are total of their whole concern is bound up some) is the visitation of a very severe in the procurement of the fifteen cents a rainy season, which brings all business to day, which suffices to keep the average a standstill and renders travel between Korean above the sod. very distant points impossible. In one The Koreans subsist on rice, millet, THE MID-PACIFIC 275 grees below zero, but the Korean sleeps from one of the docks at Chemulpo up on his hard mud floors without any cov- the shore a distance of one hundred feet. ering, as comfortably as can be. The houses are all of one story and boiled and dressed with a sauce, kimchee built of timber. The inner walls are (a food very much resembling cabbage) lined with corn stalks and branches of and beans. trees and smeared over with mud. The The women are great workers ; in houses of the poorer class are roofed fact that is their chief excuse for being with thatch and those of the better class about. The families are not as large as with tiles. The houses are heated in a would be expected, averaging about four way that in some respects is superior to children to a family. A man may have the methods in vogue in this country. as many wives as he pleases, but only The fires are built at one end of the one is recognized. house at a lower level than the floor. The The strength of the men is prodigious. heat is then carried back and forth un- They think nothing of carrying loads of derneath the floor by means of a long four hundred pounds on their jiggers, or winding flue, coming out finally at the baskets, strapped to their backs. Their opposite end of the room. It is really a strength is principally in their legs and revelation to spend a bitterly cold day in backs. I saw a native carry a steel shaft- one of these houses and discover how ing that was afterwards weighed and comfortable they are. The temperature found to tip the beam at 1000 pounds, outside frequently falls as low as 30 de-

,4 Palace Gateway, Seoul. 976 THE MID-PACIFIC

In days of old in Hawaii, the Hawaiians as a rule built their houses far from each other in the midst of taro patches, and here they lived and enjoyed life, believing in their own traditions handed down from father to son. The Vengeance of the Rain God

By MAY ROTHWELL.

LONG a narrow forest path trailed where the sun fell warmly over the water- a number of horsemen, equipped worn stones. Mr. Hicks, the foremost A for mountain travel. The guide, member of the party, halted his horse and an Hawaiian boy, led the mule upon which turned in his saddle, facng the two white was strapped a camping outfit. Over their men who were his traveling companions. heads the vines hung thick from great He was a thin, wiry man, with keen blue trees, and the fronds of immense pulu ferns eyes, who, besides being head of the expedi- swept their faces as they passed. It was tion, was also a plantation manager. often necessary for the natives of the party "The last time I was here, Professor," to dismount and with their brush knives he remarked, "the water was eight or ten slash away the tangled undergrowth, in inches deep. It's pretty well dried up order to make a passage for the, animals now for this part of our country." and their riders. "Yes, it's certainly very dry," answered Presently the path led into an opening, the Professor, as he guided his horse into a which proved to be an ancient water course sandy level. He was a school teacher from

277 278 THE MID-PACIFIC

Honolulu, and had joined the party for the natives, he has a lot to do with things the pleasure and benefit to be derived hereabouts. I guess the old cuss is in a from a week in the mountains. bad humor just now, too! That might ac- "It must be somewhere about here," he count for the unusual dry spell we're hav- added, "that Ku-u-mau-na holds his sway ing." And he slipped off his horse and for either good or evil, as one may choose tossed the reins to one of the native boys. to believe." Turning, he gazed at the towering stone, "And who may this Ku-u-mau-na be?" the lines deepened on his forehead. asked the third white man of the party, a "I wish," he resumed ; "someone would large man with deeply sunburned face, as bring him out of the trance he seems to be he spurred his horse up beside the others. in, and teach him his duty. I'm tired of The manager uttered an ejaculation of tramping the woods in search of water surprise. "You don't mean to tell me, holes, with real water in them that could Brooks," he said, "that you have never be diverted to where it would do more heard of Ku-u-mau-na! Why! he's god good—and I tell you the condition of the of the rain for this district. It must be cane is getting serious. If it don't rain due to his neglect that we're having such soon we'll not only lose the crops, but half a scarcity of water just now." Then, the stock on the lowlands will die." turning to one of the natives, "How about After the men had dismounted, still dis- that, Ka-ne, isn't that so?" cussing the situation, they proceeded to eat The native blinked his eyes but except the lunch that the natives had set out be- for a short, half-subdued laugh made no neath the trees. reply. "While I regret the actual underlying And the horses stumbled forward, clat- necessity for this trip," remarked the Pro- tering over the rough stony way. fessor, settling himself comfortably against "By Jove!" called the Professor, a mo- a nearby bank; "I am nevertheless glad of ment later, "Isn't that the old fellow the opportunity to again visit this interest- now!" ing region." In turning up the windings of the gulch "Well," replied Mr. Hicks; "if we are they became aware of a large rock that only able to fine some new spring, how- stood up from the side of the water course. ever small, I shall be more than satisfied. A bulky mass it was, in which the im- You see the water supply for the planta- agination could easily trace a resemblance iton is getting very low"—and he lit a to the lowest form of misshapen humanity. cigar thoughtfully. From the huge crown of his head drying They had finished lunch and the natives grasses trailed and fluttered in the breeze were busy repacking when Brooks noticed like the sparse growth above an old man's that one of the Hawaiian boys had gath- brow; and the sightless eyes seemed to be ered the remnants of the meal together staring into the dark forest with an ex- and carefully put them to one side. pression of sullen resentment. When the party started forward again "Yes, that's the old chap," said Hicks, the fellow gave some excuse to return, and as the entire party reined in their horses Brooks, becoming more interested, slipped before the great stone ; "he's not hardly up back also and watched from behind a to your conception of an influential deity, kukui tree. is he!" Cautiously the native approached the "Not very pretty to my way of think- great stone that seemed to glower there in ing, certainly," smiled Brooks. the cool, silent forest and, in an attitude "No. But he wasn't put there for show, of reverence not unmixed with fear, was you see," explained Hicks; "According to placing at the feet of the god the broken THE MID-PACIFIC 279

A Typical Hawaiian Village. meats, together with some wild banana fences, looking with large, hungry eyes fruit gathered on the way. Then, with- upon the prematurely yellow sugar cane. out a backward glance, he hastened to his Indeed, at length it came to be a question horse and, mounting and spurring the between the cattle and the cane, and some steed, soon rejoined the others. of the choicer herds were actually turned "Well, I'll be damned," said Brooks, as into the poorer fields—in order to pre- he also mounted and started after; "now serve the valuable stock—until the rain ain't that curious! I suppose that kanaka should come, if it ever did! thinks he's putting his god in a good tem- Ie * * * * per! I'd fix him somewhat differently, I Bob Brooks, luna (foreman) over the guess !" With a backward glance of con- work gangs of the plantation at Hilea, tempt at the old stone man, he urged his stood in his .cottage doorway at sunrise. horse into a trot and passed out of sight. His saddled horse impatiently rattled the * * * * * bit, outside. The laborers, armed with Whether the offering of meats and fruit hoes and other cultivating tools, and half- had not been sufficient to appease the hidden in a cloud of red dust, were filing wrath of Ku-u-mau-na, or whether, as was out of the village and up the road that sometimes said, he had forgotten the out- led to the fields. They were going as side world, the drought continued—becom- usual into the canefields, but there would ing each day more serious. The sweet po- be very little for them to do when they tato vines were dying on the hillsides, and arrived. The weeds were all dead long by the grass huts of the poor wooden poi ago, while the sickly cane leaves swept the bowls lay empty. The cattle, thin and ground smooth in the tireless wind. gaunt, crawled over the stony pastures— "No rain today, Me-le," said Brooks, in the seemingly vain hope of finding a glancing into the clear morning sky; few dried blades of grass—or stood long "things are getting to look pretty bad for with their heads between the wires of the us." 280 THE MID-PACIFIC

"Yes," answered the soft-voiced Ha- revolver full in the face of Ku-u-mau-na. waiian wife who, in her holoku (Mother Then silence again brooded over the Hubbard wrapper) of faded print, had domain of the rain god of Ka-u. A couple followed him to the lanai (veranda) : "Ku- of natives, who were gathering the broad u-mau-na he huhu (angry), I think." leaves of the ti (pronounced "tea") plant, "I'll huhu him if he don't send some had been amazed witnesses of the scene. rain soon!" "Au-we! Au-we!" (alas!) they cried, "He sleeps, perhaps," she suggested. as the echoes died away in the distance, "Well, then," retorted her husband; and, dropping the bundles of glistening "I'll wake him up! I'll fill his stony old leaves, they fled from the desecrated spot. heart full of lead! And I'll do it before Soon everywhere, above the hills, slaty long, too! Oh, I'll wake him all right, if storm-clouds began massing, and within an it's waking he wants !" hour these clouds, overburdened with mois- "Oh, no, don't you," she pleaded in her ture, opened their straining folds and the musical but now plaintive tones: "he be pent-up floods descended. very huhu! Too much pilikia if you do The bellowing torrent, upon which the that thing, that shooting him. No, na; I spirit of the rain god rode triumphant, afraid !" lashing his watery steed into fury, swept "Well", persisted the luna in his grow- down the stony waterway. Tumbling ing resolution, as he threw his leg over from out the valleys—where it lifted out- the horse ; "I surely will, if he don't wake flung arms of frothing water to clasp up on his own account pretty quick. I'll everything within reach,—guttering thru give him something I bet he never had be- the canefields, it swept at length with a fore. Anyhow, so long, Me-le—and he mighty roar upon the sleeping village was soon lost to view in the red dust his below. horse's heels kicked up. Not alone the more helpless chickens be- Far up in the hills there was no sound neath the mother-wing, but dogs and cats of men's toil, and except for the gentle and the little squealing pigs fell victim to "cheep" of the mountain cricket, the low the angered god, and on the remorseless call of the ohia bird, or the occasional tide were carried out to sea. croaking of the great, black, upland crow, Into the pretty garden of which Me-le the peace of the forest was perfect. was so proud the black flood swept, bring- One morning, however, the solitude was ing stones and debris to clog the walks and disturbed by the sound of booted feet on overwhelm and crush the rose bushes and the uneven bed of the water course, and frangrant ginger plants. The slim papaia Bob Brooks halted in the shadow of the trees, with their luscious yellow fruit, fell great stone god, his heavy face more reso- like soldiers before the deadly fusilade. lute than usual. He held a huge-calibered Rapidly the water rose until, with menac- Colt's revolver in his hand. ing gurgles, it bubbled up through the A moment later there broke upon the cracks in the floor and from beneath the silence such a volume of sound as might doors. have startled even the mountains from Brooks and Me-le, wakened by the noise their repose. The echoes sounded from all and the trembling of the imperiled house, directions. The birds, panicstricken by saw with horror long tentacles of muddy such an unusual clamor, darted off and water reaching across the white matting sped on wildwing far into the gloom of toward their bed. the forest. Many stones and lumps of "The water! The water !" cried Me-le, dirt, dislodged by the concussion, rattled springing up: "It's Ku-u-mau-na! He's to the ground. Brooks had emptied his coming for us !" THE MID-PACIFIC 281

"Well, let him come," said her husband, is gone! And all my new holokus, I lose sleepily; "but I guess he's only sending them, too." this water down in order to let us know "Never mind, old girl," said Brooks, in that he's awake." a clumsy attempt at comforting the weep- Another scream from Me-le brought him ing wife ; "we have plenty of the needed hastily to the window, where he looked water now, and we can soon get you some out into the night, now dimly lit up by a more holokus. I waked that old god up, waning moon. all right, you can bet!" he added with a "Holy Smoke, Me-le!" he ejaculated ; grin. "I. guess we'd better get out of this while "Yes," replied Me-le, angrily facing her we can ! Come, hurry ! Hurry !"—and he impious husband, who could laugh at such reached under his pillow for his watch, a calamity: "yes, you are to blame for purse and revolver, while Me-le seized her this! Before, I told you no do that. most highly prized calabash. With only When you haole (white), people trouble absolutely necessary clothing on, they tore the gods of Hawaii, you make much pilikia out of the house and splashed into the (trouble). Plenty pilikia." swift current of the swollen tide rushing * * * * * by their home. Brooks, clutching Me-le's By daylight the floods had subsided arm, guided her to a ledge of lava rock enough for them to return to the site of that stood up from the flood. their little cottage. As they looked away None too soon ! For that angry, swirl- from what was formerly a happy, comfort- ing water, increasing in volume and power able home, they could see the welcome suddenly, swept down upon the little, water filming across the parched fields and lightly-built cottage and lifted it from its bringing life to the cane upon whose sale piers. After quivering and swaying for a their prosperity depended. moment the building turned over on its But it is worthy of recording that, of side, sending up a great spray of water as all the houses in the village, the only one its bulk cleft momentarily the wave, and damaged belonged to the man who had bumped off down the stream. provoked the vengeance of the rain god of "Auwe ! Auwe !" wept Me-le : "my house Ka-u.

The Gods of Old. 6—M.P. 282 THE MID-PACIFIC Motoring in Malaya

By J. H. M. ROBSON.

ROVINCE WELLESLEY (oppo- bullock carts. In Selangor, Pahang, Negri site Penang) and the Federated Ma- Sembilan and Malacca there are long and play States on or adjacent to the west difficult hills to negotiate. An average of coast of the Malay Peninsula, possess an 18 miles an hour would be quite enough excellent road system of about two thou- for strangers to attempt. A very few sand miles. The roads in Malacca ter- words of Malay will carry travellers all ritory are not so good, but are passable. through the Peninsula, but it is advisable The best time for motoring in Malaya is to engage a Malay driver or cleaner to during the dry season, which lasts from assist with tire renewals, etc. He should April to September. The temperature, not be allowed to drive or adjust a strange which varies between 70 and 90 degrees F. car. The cleaning will probably be of a in the shade, is about the same all the somewhat perfunctory nature, but Malays year around. are good-tempered and obliging. Cars with only a 6-inch clearance from Travellers bringing a motor car to the the road are not suitable for use in Ma- Island of Penang will have no import laya. There is no speed limit, and the duties to pay beyond a two dollar (4s. 3d.) road surfaces are good, but the roads them- wharf fee, but a call should be made at selves are somewhat narrow, and in many the chief police office to obtain information places form an unending succession of about a car license. This license will hold sharp corners, which may hide slow-moving good in the Federated Malay States. The

283 284 THE MID-PACIFIC

A Wayside Scene in Malaya. streets of George Town, Penang, are too well watered country for rice growing. narrow and congested for comfortable The trayellers will see more Malays in driving, but the suburban and island roads this part of the country than anywhere are excellent. else on the main roads of the Peninsula. By taking the first steamer of the day There is a resthouse at Taiping, situated travellers can pass right through Province on the road to the railway station and op- Wellesley in the cool of the early morning, posite King Edward VII School. It may and breakfast at Park Buntar (25 miles) be advisable to fill up with petrol before or Bagan Serai (another 9 miles) in Perak. proceeding to Kuala Kansar which is 23 To save time a telegram should be sent to miles further on. A start should be made the resthouse keeper of the selected place about 4 p. m., so there is not much time to from Penang advising him of expected see Taiping. (A daily paper is published arrival and number of people requiring here.) food. There are so many roads in Pro- Kuala Kangsar is a beautiful spot where vince Wellesley that travellers would do the Sultan has his home, and will well re- well to enquire frequently if they are on pay a short walk between 5:30 and 6:30 the direct road to Parit Buntar. In the p. m. and again next morning at 6:30 Federated Malay States sign posts are to a. m. The resthouse is situated above be found at the more important road junc- the town, close to the Club and Govern- tions. From Bagan Serai to Taiping is ment Offices. A telegram from Taiping is another 22 miles, which can be managed not absolutely necessary, but advisable. before lunch. On this section a small river There is one long precipitous hill when has to be crossed by ferry boat, but this nearing Kuala Kansar which requires care- will only cause a delay of about fifteen ful driving, but it is the only hill of any minutes, and a bridge will shortly be erect- importance to be met with for the first ed. Ragan Serai is the headquarters of the two days on the mainland. Krian Irrigation Works, which have pro- A start at 8:30 a. m. for the first stage vided the Malays with a large extent of of 32 miles from Kuala Kangsar should THE MID-PACIFIC 285

fl Malay Roadside Market. bring the traveller within sight of Ipoh- to Kuala Lumpur, the capital of the Fed- an important tin-mining and trade centre erated Malay States. It is a long journey, —before 11 a. m. The Enggor pontoon and a route which will necessitate careful bridge, four miles from Kuala Kangsar driving, but the magnificent forest scenery looks more terrifying than it really is ; should not be missed. Starting in the early motor cars cross it daily. The road is morning from Kuala Kubu there is a steady good all the way. Lunch can be obtained pull up hill on a gradient of about 1 in at the Ipoh railway station refreshment 20 miles, to a place called the Gap, which room or the resthouse. When in the is the boundary between Selangor and Pa- neighborhood of Ipoh opportunity should hang, and where there is a resthouse. From be taken of visiting one of the large tin this point there is a drop down for about mines there, which can most conveniently 13 miles to the little village of Tras, and be done between 2 and 4 p. m.—before thence another 10 miles leads to Raub, the coolies stop work for the day. Ipoh is where there is an old established gold mine. essentially a Chinese town, and is one of The road itself is excellent, but it forms the most rapidly growing centres of Ma- an unending succession of corners, is not laya. A daily paper is published giving the too wide and is flanked in places by preci- usual Reuter's telegrams. pices. Although not actually dangerous— Starting from either Ipoh in the early public service motor vehicles driven by morning the well-built town of Kampar Malays pass up and down every day—the can easily be reached in time for breakfast trip is not recommended for nervous peo- (24 miles). This place is also a great ple. For others the grandeur of the jungle mining center and a smaller edition of scenery is well worth the climb. Brakes Ipoh. should be examined before starting, and on The suggested trip for the fifth day descending grades the car should be kept will take the travellers across the main well in hand. Times should be arranged range of the Peninsula by one route, and so that neither the up nor down motor bring them back by another, leading direct omnibus is actually met on the road. Neces- •

286 THE MID -PACIFIC sary information on this point can be ob- followed. From Kajang the road runs di- tained from the Stationmaster at Kuala rect to the Selangor boundary at Beran- Kubu, and motor traffic signals should be ang, passing through Semenyih en route. noted at the Kuala Kubu and Gap rest- Kajang to Beranang 13 miles. From this houses. point the mile stones record distances from There is very fair hotel accommodation Seremban, to which place the road, passing at Kuala Lumpur, visitors also being cater- through Setul and Mantin, is good except ed for by a Government resthouse. There for a long severe hill beyond Mantin. The are no garages attached to these places ; gradient of this hill section is nothing out visitors generally leave their cars at one or of the way for Malaya, but there is the other of the town garages. usual unending succession of corners. One or two of them require careful negotiation. Apart from overhauling the car, taking After lunch there remains 25 miles to bring a rest, doing a little shopping, the Mu- the travellers to their next halting place, a seum, Public Gardens, Golf Links, Gov- good resthouse at Kuala Pilah, the head- ernment Buildings, Polo Ground, Schools, quarters of a Malay district. The sur- Hospitals and so on are all worth visiting rounding scenery of this place is quite when in Kuala Lumpur. pretty. One severe hill has to be nego- About an hour's run from Kuala Lum- tiated between Seremban and Kuala Pilah, pur are some famous sulphur baths attach- and it is well to enquire at what times mo- ed to the Dusun Tua resthouse, which are for omnibusses are likely to be on the hill reputed to be of therapeutic value for peo- section. Travellers should be careful when ple with rheumatic tendencies. Apart from leaving Seremban to ascertain if they are the hot baths there is no special attraction on the right road. at this place. By this time the travellers will have ob- Leaving Kuala Lumpur, via Market tained a general idea of the Federated Street, Yap Ah Loy Street, and Cross Malay States, and there only remains a Street, and passing Sultan Street Railway visit to the old-world town of Malacca. Station on the right, the main road is From Kuala Pilah to Tampin (24 miles) reached leading to the suburb of Pudu. the road is good, but when Malacca terri- From this point there are two alternative tory is entered a certain amount of jolting routes to the town of Kajang, one straight and shaking may be experienced, as the on, via Cheras, and the other by turning road is bad. From Tampin to Malacca off to the right at the Pudu Police Station, the distance is 24 miles. There are two and passing through the important centre of Sungei Besi. The latter is about four resthouses at Malacca, one outside the rail- miles longer, but avoids a bad hill. On way station and the other facing the sea. reaching Sungei Besi it is necessary to turn The railway resthouse is nearer the bathing down one of the two streets on the right place at Tanjong Kling than the Malacca and then turn to the left to get on to the resthouse. There is a Government bunga- main road. Passing Serdang and the rub- low at Tanjong Kling, and permission to ber estates, the road to Kajang is easily use this bungalow for bathing purposes can THE MID -PACIFIC 287 be obtained at the Public Works Office in train. The car might not be delivered in Malacca town. The road to Tanjong Singapore till the 13th day, but the travel- Kling is flat and rather pretty. lers would probably like to have two clear The last day on the road would be a re- days for seeing Singapore. If proceeding to turn journey to Tampin, from which place China and Japan there would be no diffi- the car can be sent by goods train to the culty in catching the succeeding mail steam- Singapore docks, the travellers following by er to the one left at Penang. 288 THE MID-PACIFIC

Whether it is Palmyra Island or Christmas Island, or some other South Sea isle, the coconut palm, not man, is king in the great tropical Pacific. The meat of the coconut is the food of the islanders, its oil their money. A Coconut Islet.

My Diary of Christmas Island

By REV. EMMANUEL ROUGIER.

LEFT FANNING ISLAND on the We had rain one night only; for few auxiliary schooner Luka, 70 tons, on hours it came in torrents. The fact that I I June 1, Saturday, 5 p. m., and ar- found fresh lakes or ponds all over the rived at Christmas Island on the 4th, Tues- Island proves that the rainfall must be day, noon. very abundant sometimes. All tanks were Christmas is 140 miles southeast Fan- overflowing and the vegetation thruout the ning, lat. 1° 57' N., long. 157° 27' W. Island is luxuriant. Many of the old co- (Admiralty chart n° 2867. United States conuts on the ground were sprouting, a n° 1839). thing impossible without rain. I made a The thermometer I had in the shade, special study of the rain and water condi- went up to 94° and as low as 74°. Nights tionds, as the reputation of Christmas is were cold at 74°. Dew abundant. We that there is very little rain and water. all felt very healthy. Air dry. Walked The old coconut trees show two droughts, 32 miles one day without being exhausted, their trunks being smaller for 6 to 8 in- nor did I perspire much. I give the note ches when suffering; they come again to of perfect to the climate, being so near to their normal size with the rain. Lever the Equator. Brothers report having planted 70,000

289 290 THE MID -PACIFIC trees. Of those, fully 75 per cent died on The flora of Christmas Island is very account of having been planted during a poor, owing to its position. Only the long drought. I had no difficulty in getting floating seeds could obtain a footing or fresh water for drinking in any place. We chance to grow on the island and they never had to dig more than 12 inches, had to be sand plants. Probably centuries picking of course the lowest places. I passed before any seed was washed on found rain water in holes and caves on the shore, except a few grass seeds that might eastern side, where there is a vast plateau have been imported by birds, not as food of coral rocks. All that proves that large (all birds there living on fish) but in their tanks or reservoirs could be filled and meet feathers. This accounts for the long and any drought that might come. As for high hills all round the islands, fully 20 to coconuts, as soon as they are two or three 30 feet higher than Fanning. Today the years old they can stand easy 12 to 18 grass and shrub have taken possession of months drought, but they will have less the soil and hills have ceased to increase fruit, and the nuts will have no milk. or to move about. The grasses are a high They will not sprout of course and their tough grass, also found at Fanning, and copra will dry inside the shell. The looks not good for cattle or sheep, and Para- of the trees now bearing or nearly ready grass, tender and green, most precious to bear at Christmas are a full guarantee grass for cattle. It grows on sand hills to me that the droughts there are not where the sand is coarse, especially the east worse than at Fanning and that the aver- end of Christmas. Both creep on the soil. age rainfall, taking an average for ten Another grass is called by me the Honey years, must be about 70 inches. Grass, as the flower smells of honey, a very The Island is one of the largest of the fragrant odor. The flowers are small white coral Islands, being forty miles long on things with yellow centres. There are its northern side and 35 miles long on its millions all over Christmas. It is the most southern side, with average width of 35 common grass, about 12 inches high, and miles. It covers 740,000 acres, but more keeps the soil wonderfully moist and cool. than half is swamps or water, lagoon and These, with another low dark-green creep- lakes. However it is estimated that there er, nor common at all, are the only grasses is more than 200,000 acres of available of Christmas. land. I found only a few pearl shells. A great part of the Island is of rich There are many millions of birds. The deep reddish sand, covered with grass or Japanese used to come from time to time low bush, the sand containing a fairly good to poach birds at Christmas Island. The proportion of phosphates, or the soil is sand covered with wing bones testifies to shell-sand or coarse coral sand, or darkish the immense slaughter they did. soil and stones or pebbles of coral. The We caught many fishes of all kinds, hills are of fine sand piled there by the especially cod. Tons could be hooked winds at a time when the island was nude every day. A trial shipment of salted cod of vegetation. Sometimes the land is cov- was taken by the Luka to Honolulu. ered with half an inch to one inch of a Sharks are plentiful and would come to a kind of sandstone crackled nearly every nice figure in the fish industry. foot, the subsoil being rich sand for coco- I saw mice, but no rats, nor any sign of nuts and containing plenty of water. rats in the coconuts or elsewhere. No large In other places the soil is rich guano lizards or mokos, no snakes, no mosquitoes, under big trees as in the coral plateau at no flies except the large green kind and the east end, where coconuts ought to be they seem checked by the dragonflies. Co- planted in each crack of that coral. conuts look the picture of health. THE MID-PACIFIC 291

Just Coconuts.

The anchorages (they are many) are all well fenced with stones 10 to 18 inches close enough to the shore to render ship- high. ping quick and easy. They are good and At 10 a. m. we arrived at the tree safe, as can be seen by a look at the chart. marked "inside grove", all old trees planted The beach is all sand on the west and about 1880, with names on them. The in- north parts of the island and landing is an side lagoon there seems an immense lake; easy task. you cannot see the end of it. It is swarm- Leaving Motu e tau, a small islet full of ing with fishes. I left the boys to make birds of all descriptions, with few trees our night camp and went alone to explore bearing, and umbrella trees literally dying, the east end. The flats I crossed were killed by the droppings of the birds, we covered with the same sandstone, honey landed on the northeast side of the lagoon. grass and cuscute, also nashus and a few I took one Japanese and one Manihiki with umbrella trees. me and we left to explore the unknown From time to time I climbed the tallest parts of the Island. The boys carried of these trees and took a better view of water, coffee and biscuits, also a blanket the lakes, lagoon and land. Lakes were for the chilling night. more and more numerous at the end of We soon found ourselves amongst birds the island. Large lakes with deep blue as usual, leaving on our left the high sand water were salty. Small lakes of 2 to 50 hills and on our right the beach of the acres were fresh lakes. lagoon. After two hours' walk near a I saw the Beacon at 1 p. m. and reach- bay of the lagoon we found six large tombs. ed it at 3 p. m., taking photos from the The graveyard was on level ground, 50 top. The Beacon is 12 yards at the base, yards from the water, no trees there, the conical, 45 feet, all iron, with ladder, and soil all covered with one inch thick sand- painted white. The last mile of the island stone. Each tomb was 16x16 or 14x15, is one block or plateau of massive coral, 292 THE MID-PACIFIC

big large stones, covered with nashus. dew, leaving the lagoon on our right and I had great difficulty on reaching the going zig-zagging on that vast plain. Near Beacon, but in fighting for a way I had a fresh water lake, two black cats were the good fortune to find fresh water in a disturbed. They were the first of many deep cave under the rocks. I finished then ,others, all black, except one quite white. the coconut I was carrying with me and I explain the presence of these black cats filled it with cool rain water. by the superstitious belief of the seamen Coming back I followed the north side that a black cat is the best mascot, so that of the beach, walking on sharp stones, then probably many ships wrecked in the islands coarse and fine sand covered with Para had black cats. We managed to reach the grass about 12 inches long. There I met southeast beach without wading a lake, but colonies of the Sula Cyanops or Pelicana it took us to a distance of about five miles Sulasula, the largest of the Boobies.. That from the Beacon. end of the island has not so many birds. The distance from the lagoon to the The breakers are constant and very large. beach is one mile only at that place. We About one mile from the Beacon, along walked on sandstone, then sand, then nude the beach there is one tomb 14 feet by 3, coral stone, then it is the stony beach. The divided in the middle by a stone to indicate surf beats the shore all the time and there that two are buried there. Before arriving is no sand in sight, all smooth large coral at the tomb there is a rest of stone-wall white stone moving with the waves with a or shelter with a path made of flat stones. noise of broken plates. Leaving that high part of the island A few hundred yards east, I saw a that goes all round, and descending to the schooner mast planted in stones, and near flat inland, I found that there is an edge the mast two large tombs, a few fathoms of coral, with deep holes, full' of fresh from the high water mark. I took a photo water. It seems as if an inland sea had and was coming back to my boys, when a formerly beaten those rocks and made those few yards from the tombs I remarked a caves and holes. At 6 p. m. I was back at hole with a Nashu in it growing luxuri- the camp with 28 miles in my legs. The antly. It looked extraordinary to me that Japanese had cooked for me a braised fish a Nashu should grow so well and so near and Mahuta two young boobies and a the beach . mutton bird. To my taste there is no bird I pulled out the Nashu, and there were in the world like the young mutton bird. human bones and ashes, the remains of a At 5 a. m. the coffee was served in a human being, who after having buried his coconut shell. The night had been full of relatives, had dug his own grave, but no- disturbances. No mosquitoes, but crabs body was there to bury him. He had died were attacking my toes, pulling my beard in his grave and Nature had planted a and pinching my nose. They were legions. Nashu to cover the poor boy :—a boy he Tired as I was I could not stand it any was, or a woman, because the bones were longer, the more I killed them the more not those of a man. they came, when I had an ingenious idea. From there on all our way for twenty I ordered the Japanese to bring me what miles we walked on old wrecks, native was left of his fish. He brought me about canoes, schooners, barkentines, steamers, all 20 pounds of fish. This I distributed all kinds of wood, and in all stages of de- around my grass bed, and laid down for terioration. good. When taking my coffee, a few The Hawaiians used to sail to Tahiti hundred crabs were still busy finishing the and Samoa and vice-versa, the Maoris, the generous dinner I had given them. Fijians, Tongans, in old times were caught We soon were walking in the morning by the most dangerous bight known in all THE MID-PACIFIC 293 the Pacific; if large vessels and steamers water is available only by those who know like the Aeon with all their modern instru- where to dig a well or where to go to ments fall victims of this island, what find it. about those native navigators? I do not We had no difficulty ourselves to renew know if there is any shore in the world our supply of water in a hole, 6 to 8 feet showing so many signs of struggle for life deep in stone; the hole was just large en- and proofs that Death did win. ough to let Mahuta disappear in it and fill our cask. I took photos of many derelicts, large anchors, lifeboats on the beach, immense At one of the wrecks I found large pieces spars on shore, old camps left by survivors, of brass and lead embedded in the coral. everywhere you feel that this has been the Mahuta saw the cut I had made in the theatre of intense sufferings. lead and thought it was silver. The poor boy could not make up his mind to leave The island had no coconuts or very few, it behind. Here and there were fine pieces forty years ago, and those who are there of Oregon pine, as good as new, having now are at least twenty miles away from been taken' clean on the stone by the first the beach, an awful distance for an ex- waves, but millions of feet are chafed and hausted being. No other food than birds spoiled. and fishes. Sometimes no water available The Aeon had about a million feet of in time of drought, and at any time the lumber wrecked there in February, 1909. Climbing a Mountain Ridge on Kauai.

• A Tropical Mountain Park

By JUDGE PHILIP L. WEAVER. •

OR about two weeks I camped in temperate climate, the brawling stream the highlands of the Island of rushing down the canyon was very cold F Kauai with Mr. Augustus Knud- and we were apparently in the temperate sen and a party of Punahou school boys, zone except for grand treeferns and mosses hunting and tramping about the moun- that could not survive a frost. The kettle tains. Mr. Knudsen has established a singing at the camp fire and the unusually camp in the most beautiful part of the pleasant notes of the mountain birds, the mountains of Kauai, and every year he ever present rush of the stream, the scent invites the school boys of Honolulu to of the forest mingling with that of the visit the beautiful island of Kauai, and beef stew gives change enough for any enjoy an outing in the mountains that he office tired man. After the exhilarating has made accessible to those who enjoy horseback ride up the mountain from Ke- tramping. kaha of the wonderful Waimea grand "I am quite familiar with the beauties canyon the rest is a perfect delight. of scenery to be found on Hawaii, Maui "The Grand Canyon about 3000 feet and Oahu, but was not prepared to see so deep has much of the color of the Grand much grandeur and sylvan beauty com- Canyon of the Colorado, and gives the bined as Kauai offers. same sense of awful grandeur to the "It was a surprise to find that within traveler who has seen both. The dimen- twenty-four hours of the time of leaving sions of the world renowned canyon are Honolulu, the party was settled in camp greater but the effect here of the red can- high up in one of the canyons beyond the yon backed by the dark green of the Wai- grand Waimea gorge on the four thousand mea mountains is equally grand. feet level. The air was of the bracing "The road built by the Knudsens for

294 THE MID-PACIFIC 295 the purpose of making it easy for travelers patent to the most careless observer One to go from Kekaha to the high mountains naturally asks why ridge after ridge roll- winds along the edge of this gorge With ing southward has a gray appearance. The many grand vistas. One can drive a four- forest everywhere is a dark green, indi- horse team up to the mountain house at cating the lehua, with here and there a Halemano. From here, horseback trails light green spot where a koa tree has enable the camper to go for miles up to- made a stand for itself Far back on the ward the summit through a wild region slope of the ridge from Waialeale the roll- heavily wooded with old ohia and lehua ing hills have the gray appearance of a trees. The cattle have trampled the forest middle aged man whose black hair is fast and destroyed the young trees until the being silvered with age. Closer observa- country is passable and comparatively dry. tion shows that it is due to the fact that "The woods shelter wild cattle and pigs, the lehua forest of mature trees is dying and the bare steep red cliffs of the can- out, and that no young trees are taking yons in and about Waimea are cropped their place. The old trees are bearded bare of every accessible green thing by the with moss and only the very summit goats that run along the steep cliffs. These branches show the characteristic green of goats are the descendants of those left on the lehua. the island by Vancouver. "The cattle prefer to live on the young "For climate, scenery and hunting these shoots of the lehua. It is the habit of this mountains are ideal for the Honolulu peo- tree to take root in the rotten trunks fal- ple, especially, who have no four thousand len among the messes. One does not see feet elevation to which to resort in hot the young sprouts on these logs except weather. where the cattle have been excluded. "The point that is of general interest is "The consequence of this destruction is that this whole region can be presrved for clearly demonstrated. Mountain flats that all time for the use and pleasure of the were once bogs draining their waters whole public, and not for a lucky few, if gradually into the many streams are now the public realize the desirability of the dry, even the commonest ferns do not place as a forest preserve. flourish in the open and new trees have "The land is now leased to cattle men not enough moisture to take root. by the government. The leases will soon "The lowlands consequently must suffer run out and the government will be free from great floods in stormy weather and to deal with its forest land as it sees fit. the sea swallows up the preecious moisture "The use of these uplands for cattle that should feed the valleys during the grazing is of . almost no value. Possibly dryer season. two hunters make a poor living by hunt- "With these forests preserved, there is ing wild cattle through the forest, and great opportunity for extensive storage sys- selling the meat and hides. tems in the canyons by storing the waters "The benefits then are so small as to be as they seep from the swamp lands around negligible. the summit, and for delivery upon the fer- "On the other hand, the direct and indi- tile soil on the side of the mountain from rect damage to the forests from cattle is the 1800 feet level, and below. incalculable. "This preservation of the forest would "If one stands on the well known rock serve to make more attractive the many Pohakuwaawaa' where the districts of flats where campers could find a paradise Napali and Waimea meet and looks south- for short trips and at little expense, where ward, and sotheastward toward the ridge a trip to the Coast would not be necessary of Waialeale the damage to the forest is to get a needed change of climate. 296 THE MID-PACIFIC

"The public will soon be in control of handle forty acres of cane to take up a these forests and it would be a great pity homestead with many others and raise to allow the destruction of the forestts to cane for a central mill. Then will be a go on. It also should be known to be to real step toward manning the soil of Ha- the interests of every one that these woods waii with Americans. and the grand scenery should not be con- "The time is not far distant when our trolled by any private interests for a pri- local government will be face to face with vate hunting preserve. They should be the necessity of adopting a policy with re- preserved for the general public to enjoy gard to these mountain lands, and it is just as the Yosemite Park is a perpetual important to every citizen that the possi- delight to the campers of California. bilties of these forests for the pleasure of "The best interests of the Territory in the public should be known as well as for developing the water for the arid districts the profit of commercial enterprise, espe- of Waimea and the best interests of the cially when the two interests do not clash. public, who ought to have an easy acces- "I hope to see the day when summer sible public park for camping in a temper- camps will be frequent and plentiful thru- ate climate, demands that the high lands be made a forest reservation. out these mountains. Mr. Augustus Knud- "If the United States government ex- sen is taking great pains to show the beau- tends its policy of irrigation of arid re- ties of these forests to Honolulu people and gions into Kauai there will be great oppor- let them see for themselves what a grand tunity for the American citizen who can domain the public owns for a public park."

Climbing Down to the Sea. ADVERTISING SECTION Among the Hawaiian Islands Map by courtesy of the Inter-Island Steam Navigation Company.

44.444,9, KAUAI .4,40.4s HAWAIIAN ISLAND S Aipao, AG...ow* Scale / beh= Anode fee/. alga 431.40, lir fie Hamra /9-ammiiss auserhKgg By Nemvfon 1,03. NIIHAU le 06 Scerk h? *Wee

• MOLOKAI

NORTH AMERICA

The Island of Hawaii is about the size of the State of Connecticut; the area of all the islands is about two-thirds that of Belgium. STEAMSHIP SERVICE. THE KAUAI CANYONS From Honolulu, on the Island of Oahu, At 5 :15 P. M. every Tuesday there is to and from the Island of Maui, there is a large boat (S. S. "Kinau") leaving almost daily service, either by way of Honolulu for Kauai ports, a night's ride, Kahului on the lee side of Maui, or on the and on the return leaving Waimea, Kauai, windward side, at Lahaina, there being at 10 A. M. Saturdays, affording oppor- splendid auto services between the two. tunity for a visit to the famous canyons Twice a week there are sailings from of Kauai and the Barking Sands. Fare Honolulu for the Big Island of Hawaii. each way $6. The "W. G. Hall," a Communication between the islands of smaller steamer, leaves Honolulu every Hawaii is maintained by the splendid and Thursday at 5 P. M. Returning leaves frequent steamers of the Inter-Island Nawiliwili, Kauai, every Tuesday at Steam Navigation Co. Ltd. 5 P. M. THE HALEAKALA TRIP. THE VOLCANO OF KILAUEA. Mondays and Fridays there is a boat The flagship of the Inter-Island fleet leaving Honolulu for Kahului, Maui, at leaves Honolulu every Wednesday and 5 :00 in the afternoon—fare $6 each way, Saturday for Hilo on the Island of Hawaii, a pleasant night's ride, and from Kahului from whence a visit to Kilauea is made, on Wednesday and Saturday afternoons and from whence a tour of the largest of the Hawaiian Islands may be begun. Fare the same steamer (S. S. "Claudine") sails to Hilo, each way, $12.50; by rail and for Honolulu. This is the most conven- auto to volcano, about $5.00 return; rates ient boat for trips to Haleakala and the at Volcano House, about $6 a day. famous Koolau Ditch Trail. The Mon- The main offices of the Inter-Island day boat from Honolulu touches at many Steam Navigation Co., Ltd., are on Queen Maui ports. Street, Honolulu; phone No. 4941. 2 THE MID-PACIFIC Honolulu from the Trolley Car

You may take the electric tram as you lulu, or you may transfer to Kaimuki step off of the steamer in Honolulu, and on the heights behind Diamond Head, for five cents ride for hours—if you wish which is now a great fortress ; in fact, to take transfers—to almost every part the entire day may be spent with profit of this wonderously beautiful city and its on the car lines. At Waikiki often may suburbs. be seen from the cars, men and boys dis- There appeared in the Mid-Pacific porting themselves on their surfboards Magazine for January, 1915, an article as they come in standing before the telling of a hundred sights to be seen waves on these little bits of wood. from the street cars. The cars in Honolulu are all open, for At one end of the King street car line the temperature never goes below 68 is Fort Shafter, on a commanding hill, degrees„ nor does it rise above 85 de- from which may be seen the cane lands grees, and there is always a gentle trade and rice fields, stretching to Pearl Har- wind stirring. bor in the distance. Before reaching When Honolulu was ready for her Fort Shafter is the Bishop Museum, electric tram system, the Honolulu Rapid having the most remarkable Polynesian Transit & Land Co. completed the most collection in the world. At the other end perfect system of its kind in the world, of the line is Kapiolani Park, a beautiful tropical garden, in which is located the and it is always a delight to ride smooth- famous aquarium of Hawaiian fishes, ly over its lines. rivaled only by the aquarium in Naples. It is but twenty minutes by car to Transfers are given to branch lines Waikiki beach and but five minutes penetrating several of the wonderfully longer, by the same car, to the wonderful beautiful mountain valleys behind Hono- aquarium in Kapiolani Park.

Where the Lighting and Cooking in the Honolulu Home is arranged for as well as the Power for Factories. THE MID-PACIFIC 3 The Island of Oahu TO SAN FRANCISCO AND JAPAN The Matson Steam Navigation Co., maintaining the premier ferry service be- tween Honolulu and San Francisco, and the Toyo Kishen Kaisha maintaining pa- 89 latial ocean greyhound service between San Francisco and the Far East via Honolulu, 4 /34 047C OKONANIA have their Hawaiian agencies with Castle

HAWAIIAN & Cooke, Ltd. i This, one of the oldest firms in Hono- HONGKONG 495.1 lulu, occupies a spacious building at the IL/PP/NE corner of Fort and Merchant streets, Honolulu. The ground corner floor is used OCEAN as local passenger and freight offices of the Toyo Kisen Kaisha and of the Matson Steam Navigation Company; Castle & Cooke, Ltd. The adjoining offices are used by the firm for their business as sugar

SYDNEY factors and insurance agents. Phone 1251. Castle & Cooke, Ltd., act as agents for jo~calran of , etk many of the plantations throughout Ha- liaewananlv islands waii, and here may be secured much varied information. Here also the tourist may 21 secure in the folder racks, booklets and pamphlets descriptive of almost every part Maps by courtesy of Castle & Cooke, Ltd. of the great ocean.

OAHU OAHU at` uare Niles 598 . Hogoukt,Nixowsu4,101. 15Pand v MdtS rs B,Norn Islqnd 25 Milos tiOesIttr-1.1frIfotdo,4030 Fr ,,,,,,0t0tfrEr., 51 o ktion over 60,o o o Poop5e D■slxv, fro ai,mt` ZOO ' p"51,atct from 2.p4n 3,400 Mlles zIr■LC f .7C,,,,,Iraha.A 4 '4MI if) -'.Government Rtqd olaonS Wad 1,rst-cross riaroqd 5iAem 65 C.rop for 1901, liun Ras,

6P.R5 c'T

The Island of Oahu is more than half the size of Rhode Island, although it is one of the smallest of the Hawaiian group. 4 THE MID-PACIFIC The Island of Hawaii

Map by courtesy of Alexander & Baldwin.

The Island of Hawaii is about twice the size of Delaware. The going and coming of people in On the island of Maui, on which Alex- Hawaii is regulated by the truly remark- ander & Baldwin are agents for the larg- able monthly calendar in red, white and est single sugar plantation of Hawaii, is blue, issued by the firm of Alexander & Haleakala, the largest and most wonder- Baldwin, sugar factors and insurance ful extinct crater in the world, as on agents. This large calendar, it is safe Hawaii, Kilauea is Earth's largest ac- to say, hangs in every business office tive volcano. On the island of Kauai, in the islands, and in many on the coast. where this firm also has its interests, It shows each day just what steamer is there are canyons as varied in color and to sail to or from Hawaii, and the exact variety of scene as any in Arizona, while movements of the large Inter-Island on Oahu, where the home office of Alex- steamers. This truly American concern ander & Baldwin is housed in the Stan- has diversified interests in all of the isl- genwald building in Honolulu, there is ands, and is therefore interested in the the famous Pali or precipice which is development in every way of every part visited by every tourist and is the pride of the Territory. of the Hawaiians themselves. The Hawaiian group is composed of The Hawaiian Islands lie 2,100 miles seven large and a number of small isl- southwest of San Francisco, and have ands. The largest island of the group- a population of 200,000, the very living Hawaii—occupies nearly as much land as of whom depends upon the growing of does the State of Connecticut, and boasts sugar cane, the islands shipping over an unbroken sugar-cane area more than 500,000 tons of raw sugar to America a hundred miles long. It is the home of annually, this creating and supporting the the two highest island mountain peaks two largest American steamship com- in the world. panies. THE MID-PACIFIC 5 The Island of Kauai Map by courtesy of H. Hackfeld & Co.

Opp., M

elom Ho, Ah) C ..,

41phn intl. 54;E.11. :'iSsn • ,, ■ • ,... , Vit LI Sugar Crapforr. )/...$ifr../

The Island of Kauai is about half the size of Delaware.

The Home Building in Honolulu of H. Hackfeld & Co., Ltd., Plantation Agents, Wholesale Merchants and Agents Pacific Mail S. S. Co., the American-Hawaiian, and all the Principal Atlantic S. S. Lines. 6 THE MID-PACIFIC The Island of Maui Map by courtesy of the Pacific Guano & Fertilizer Co.

MAUI Arec, in Statute • ;.481 Length 4c Miles. Bree! 1.4,-. too3:: lesi- Crotty in r • r!,`,.,--,•;

40- Crop 1 ■

The Island of Maui with its sister island, Lanai, is about the size of the State of Rhode Island

111L PACIFIC GUANO a, ftitnitzekviorpa KAlltn, HONOLULU, T.H.

The Home of the Pacific Guano & Fertilizer Company. It has its works on King Street, Honolulu. THE MID-PACIFIC 7

There are four banks on thee Island of Maui. The National Baldwin Bank of Maui, the First National Bank of Wailuku, the Lahaina National Bank, and the Paia Bank. Our picture this month shows the First National Bank of Wailuku

The Kahului Railway runs frequent trains from the Port of Kahului to Wai- luku and Iao Valley, as well as, in the other direction, to Paia, and to Haiku in the pineapple district. The Wailuku Hotel, in the beautiful town of Iao Valley, is near the railway station and makes a rate of $2.50 a day.

There are three great department stores on Maui, two in Kahului, the Puu- nene Store, which is the retail establishment of the Hawaiian Sugar Co., and the Kahului Store, which takes over the merchandise department of the Kahului Rail- way. The third great Maui store is that at Paia THE MID-PACIFIC The Lure of Australia

BRISBANE

PORT AUGUSTA SYDNEY ADELAIDE_

MELS R N E

Manly Boys. The Trans-Continental Railway. The Continent of Australia is equal Australia's greatest mountain, higher in extent to the United States of than Righi or Pilatus, and on the Buf- America. falo Mountains in Victoria, the coun- Australia and the islands of the south tryside is deeply snow-covered in win- call appealingly to the people of the ter, and these resorts are made the ren- world, and once the lure of the Pacific dezvous for fashion and beauty, who is listened to, it is seldom that he who revel in the exhilarating Alpine de- visits southern lands for any length of lights of ski-running, ice-skating and time is ever content to leave them again. tobogganing. Australia has much to show the Australia possesses several magnifi- tourist. It opens up a new field of in- cent lacustrine districts, notably the terest and pleasure for the round-the- Gippsland Lakes in Victoria, the Lakes world traveler, and for the political of the Tasmania Tableland—Great and social student. Lake and Lake St. Clair, and the Myall Australia has no falls like Niagara, no Lakes of New South Wales. The dom- canyons like Colorado, nor river like inant note of these secluded spots is the Mississippi. It nevertheless has their air of restful quiet, where tired many fine waterfalls of striking beauty, constitutions renew their vitality and like the Barron Falls in Queensland, overwrought nerves are reinvigorated. and the Fitzroy Falls in New South Australia teems with scenic resorts, Wales. It has many magnificent trout distinct and unique, just because they streams, notably the Goodradigbee and are Australian. Australia has Its own Upper Murray, which have by experi- characteristics, its very atmosphere is enced anglers been given pride of Australian ; its landscape colorings be- place before the famous Scottish long to it, and to it alone. It has fauna streams. It has many chains of moun- and flora absolutely apart. tains, not of the titanic proportions of Tourists requiring any information con- the Andes or Rockies, but which con- cerning Australia are advised to commu- tain stupendous bluffs and gaping nicate with the Tourist Bureaux in Syd- chasms, and have a distinct and ap- ney, Melbourne, Adelaide, Brisbane, Perth pealing grandeur. The Blue Moun- or Hobart. Particulars may also be ob- tains are known wherever Australia is tained on application to Mr. Niel Nielsen, known, for their peculiar atmospheric New South Wales Trade Commissioner, mantle which always enshrouds them, their gorgeous colourings, their fairy- 419 Market St., or to Mr. F. T. A. lands of fern, and their orchestral cas- Fricke, Victoria Government Agent, 687 cades and waterfalls. At Kosciusko, Market Street, San Francisco. THE MID-PACIFIC 9 South Australia Across the Pacific From San Francisco, Vancouver and will secure the books and information from Honolulu there are two lines of fast you may desire. steamships to Sydney, Australia. There are two ways to Australia and From Sydney to Adelaide, South Aus- New Zealand from San Francisco and tralia, there is a direct line of railway on Vancouver via Hawaii. which concession fares are granted In New Zealand there are live, ener- tourists arriving from overseas, and no getic cities that believe that in working for visitor to the Australian Commonwealth the prosperity of the country about them, can afford to neglect visiting the south- they enhance their own. ern central state of Australia; for South The "Dunedin Expansion League" has Australia is the State of superb climate achieved remarkable results for the won- and unrivalled resources. Adelaide, the `Garden City of the South,' is the capital, derful, rich and scenic region of Otago in and there is a Government Intelligence the South Island. and Tourist Bureau where the tourist, The "Dunedin Expansion League" goes investor, or settler is given accurate in- so far as to offer excellent factory sites to formation, guaranteed by the govern- manufacturers who will build factories in ment, and free to all. From Adelaide the neighborhood of Dunedin. this Bureau conducts rail, river and motor The "Dunedin Expansion League" with excursions to almost every part of the its offices in the Stock Exchange Buildings state. Tourists are sent or conducted in Dunedin, gets out some excellent litera- through the magnificent mountain and ture descriptive of the Cold Lakes of the pastoral scenery of South Australia. Otago Region, and the industrial induce- The government makes travel easy by a system of coupon tickets and facilities for ments that draw people to the most solid caring for the comfort of the tourist. city of New Zealand—Dunedin. Excursions are arranged to the holiday If you intend visiting New Zealand you resorts ; individuals or parties are made should write for advance information from familar with the industrial resources, and the Secretary of the "Dunedin Expansion the American as well as the Britisher is League," Dunedin. made welcome if he cares to make South From Sydney begins the wonderful two Australia his home. dollar and a half a day cruises to the The South Australian Intelligence and South Sea Islands, as well as cruises de Tourist Bureau has its headquarters on luxe to Java and in fact to every part of King William Street, Adelaide, and the the world through the Burns-Philp Tourist government has printed many illustrated Bureau. books and pamphlets describing the Messrs. Burns-Philip & Co. place their scenic and industrial resources of the best steamers on the run between Sydney, state. A post card or letter to the Intel- ligence and Tourist Bureau in Adelaide Batavia and Singapore. Their tickets are interchangeable with those of the Royal Packet Co. The head office of this great shipping concern is on Bridge St., Sydney, and from here their tourist bureau is con- ducted, under the direction of Mr. A. G. Baxter. Tourists are sent or conducted through Europe, and circular letters-of- credit are issued around the world. There are delightful ten shilling, or $2.50-a-day cruises by the Burns-Philip boats to the New Hebrides Islands, and other lines to the Marshall Islands, the Line Islands, the Solomons and to New Guinea and the Queensland Coast. 10 THE MID-PACIFIC Wonderful New Zealand

Native New Zealanders at Rotorua. Scenically New Zealand is the world's of the tourist, for whom she has also wonderland. There is no other place in built splendid roads and wonderful the world that offers such an aggrega- mountain tracks. New Zealand is tion of stupendous scenic wonders. The splendidly served by the Government West Coast Sounds of New Zealand are Railways, which sell the tourist for a in every way more magnificent and awe- very low rate a ticket that entitles him inspiring than are the fiords of Norway. to travel on any of the railways for from Its chief river, the Wanganui, is a scenic one to two months. In the lifetime of panorama of unrivalled beauty from end a single man, (Sir James Mills of Dune- to end. Its hot springs and geysers in din, New Zealand,) a New Zealand the Rotorua district on the North Island steamship company has been built up have no equal anywhere. In this dis- that is today the fourth largest steam- trict the native Maoris still keep up ship company under the British flag, and their ancient dances or haka haka, and larger than any steamship company here may be seen the wonderfully carved owned in America with her 100,000,000 houses of the aboriginal New Zealand- million population, or in Japan with her ers. There are no more beautiful lakes 50,000,000 population. New Zealand is anywhere in the world than are the Cold a land of wonders, and may be reached Lakes of the South Island, nestling as from America by the Union Steamship they do among mountains that rise sheer Co. boats from Vancouver, San Fran- ten thousand feet. Among these moun- cisco or Honolulu. The Oceanic Steam- tains are some of the largest and most ship Co. also transfers passengers from scenic glaciers in the world. In these Southern Alps is Mt. Cook, more than Sydney. The Government Tourist twelve thousand feet high. On its Bureau has commodious offices in Auck- slopes the Government has built a hotel land and Wellington as well as the other to which there is a motor car service. larger cities of New Zealand. Direct in- New Zealand was the first country to formation and pamphlets may be secured perfect the government tourist bureau. by writing to the New Zealand Govern- She has built hotels and rest houses ment Tourist Bureau, Wellington, New throughout the Dominion for the benefit Zealand. THE MID-PACIFIC 11 New South Wales

Circular Quay, Sydney.

Physical configuration and a wide The wonderful system of limestone fairy- range of climate give the State of New caverns at Jenolan is a marvelous South Wales its wonderful diversity of land of stalactitic and stalagmitic forma- the scenery, its abundance of magnificent tions, which must for ever remain resorts by ocean, harbor, mountain, val- despair of the painter, the photographer no more ley, plain, lake, river and cave. It is this and the writer. The world has caves bewildering array of scenic attractions, marvelous or beautiful system of and the peculiar strangeness of the forms than these at Jenolan, which tourists their of its animal and vegetable life, which from everywhere have marked as makes New South Wales one of the most own. The famous Jenolan series is sup- interesting countries in the world, and plemented and rivalled by the extensive one which an up-to-date, well-traveled systems at Womheyan and Yarrangobil- tourist must see. ly, a little further away from Sydney. In the south, among the Australian The climate of the State ranges from Alps, lies the unique Kosciusko Range, the arctic snows of Mt. Kosciusko to the which contains the highest peak in the sub-tropical glow of the Northern Riv- Continent, and is said to be the oldest ers, and withal is one of the most equable land surface on the globe. The Hotel in the world. Its eastern shore is washed by the crested rollers of the wide Pacific Kosciusko, a modern spa, replete with and stretches by meadow, tableland and every convenience, golf links and tennis mountain to the rich, dry plains beneath courts,—stands at an altitude of 6000 the rim of the setting sun. feet. In Summer, the mountaineer and trout fisherman stays here to enjoy the Westward of Sydney, the Blue Moun- majestic scenery at the summit, or fill his tains attain an altitude of 3000 feet at a bag with fish caught in a handy stream, distance of 60 miles. The scenery is of and in Winter the ski-runner, tobogganer rare magnificence. Through countless and ice-skater revels in the Alpine car- centuries, the rivers have carved stupen- nivals conducted on the glistening snow- dous gorges, comparable only to the fields. famous Colorado canyons. The eucalyp- The Government Tourist Bureau, a tus covered slopes give off health-giving splendidly equipped Institution at Challis odours, and graceful waterfalls, gaping House, Sydney, readily dispenses infor- valleys, fern-clad recesses and inspiring mation. maps, pamphlets and booklets, to Panoramas impress themselves on the all inquirers in connection with the tour- memory of the mountain visitor. ist resorts of the State. 12 THE MID-PACIFIC The Railways of Victoria

Buffalo Gorge, Victoria. The mountains of Victoria are the ernment chalet are issued on Fridays by most picturesque of any in Australia. the 4 p. m. express train from Mel- The agricultural country is the most ac- bourne and the entire cost is but five cessible, as the Victorian Railways are pounds or $25. There are special seven- planning to bring every grain grower day trips including rail, accommodation, within ten miles of a railway. Her sea- and coach drives for but three pounds or side resorts are the most salubrious, $15. The Government arranges trips to and at one of them, St. Kilda, is the the Lakes, Buchan Caves, the Victorian largest inclosed swimming bath in the Alpine district, and the sea-side resorts. world. The State Railway has estab- From time to time on this and succeed- lished in the center of business Mel- ing pages, you will learn something of bourne a Government Tourist Informa- the wonders of Victoria. tion Bureau and ticket office. Here in- From Sydney or from Adelaide, the formation is distributed and t: ckets sold over-seas or New Zealand tourist is to the Victorian resorts. Special low given a very low railway rate to Mel- rate fares are made to the over-sea tour- bourne, and his wisest course on arrival ist, and there are tempting week-end is to call at the Victorian Government trips. Where it is necessary the govern- Tourist Bureau opposite the Town Hall ment erects its own hotel in the moun- on the corner of Swanton and Collins tains. It has its Chalet on the beautiful streets, where handbooks, maps and hotel Buffalo Plateau, which is a mountain guides are issued on application, and in wonderland superior to any in Australia, the same office, railway tickets may be and this is being developed. Skiing purchased to any part of Australia. If courses are being laid out and tracks cut you are writing for information it would to the many beauty spots. To this re- be wise to drop a line to Mr. E. B. Jones, gion, inclusive week-end tickets covering the acting Secretary of the Victorian transport and accommodation at the gov- Railways. THE MID-PACIFIC 13 THE GARDEN AND PLAY TASMANIA GROUND OF AUSTRALIA.

Tasmania is one of the finest tourist Bureau to handle, neither is a tour of resorts in the southern hemisphere, and no the whole island too big. Travel cou- traveller should miss the island State from pons are issued including both fares and his itinerary. It is right in the track of accommodation if desired. A choice of all southern Pacific travel, and is but ten available means of conveyance is offered hours' run from the Australian mainland. to enquirers—rail, motor, or steamer. The large steamers plying between Vic- But not only in Hobart is the visitor toria and New Zealand call at Hobart thus assisted, for in other Tasmanian cen- both ways, and there is a regular service tres there are local Tourist Associations from Sydney to Hobart. Between Launce- to apply to. In Launceston the Northern ston and Melbourne the fastest turbine Tasmania Tourist Association has splendid steamer in Australia runs thrice weekly. offices where the visitor can make himself Tasmania is a land of rivers, lakes, and at home. mountains, and it is a veritable tourists' The Tasmanian Government has an up- paradise. It is also a prolific orchard to-date office in Melbourne, at 59 William country and has some of the finest fruit Street, next door to the New Zealand growing tracts in the world. The climate Government office, where guidebooks, is cooler than the rest of Australia, and in tickets, and information can be procured. the summer months the island's accommo- At the Panama Exposition at San Fran- dation is taxed to the utmost. cisco literature regarding the beauties and The Tasmanian Government deals di- resources of Tasmania may be obtained rectly with the tourist. Hobart, the cap- from the Secretary of the Australian Pa- ital,—one of the most beautiful cities in vilion. the world—is the headquarters of the For detailed information regarding Tas- Tasmanian Government Tourist Depart- mania, either as to travel or settlement, ment ; and the Bureau will arrange for enquirers should write to Mr. E. T. Em- transport of the visitor to any part of the mett, the Director of the Tasmanian Gov- island. A shilling trip to a local resort ernment Tourist Department, Hobart, is not too small for the Government Tasmania. 14 THE MID-PACIFIC The Light of Honolulu

The Honolulu Gas Company maintains at the corner of Alakea and Beretania streets spacious exhi- bition rooms and a parlor where everyone is welcome.

There are 4100 consumers of gas in tions in incandescent hoods, these giant Honolulu, and the price of gas in that hoods made incandescent by a small jet of city, $1.00 to $1.50 a thousand feet, ac- gas giving a marvelous light that seems as cording to amount consumed, is a lower bright as day. The smaller hoods are price than that charged for gas by any used in the office and in the home, greatly other American city having not more than reducing the gas bills of consumers. 4100 consumers. The Honolulu Gas Co., Ltd., has its When the Honolulu Gas Company first spacious show rooms and offices at the began business the charge for gas was corner of Beretania and Alakea Streets, $2.50 a thousand feet, but as more con- and here the public is invited to meet with sumers were secured the price was lower- the staff of experts in gas lighting and ed, and will be lowered considerably as cooking devices. They know how to aid the people of the city become educated to in saving on the gas bill to an extent that the fact that gas is the most economical will induce all to use gas, both in the fuel for cooking, as well as for lighting, kitchen and in the parlor. that is to be had in the city of Honolulu. The gas mains of Honolulu are con- Every new gas consumer aids in lower- stantly being extended to the outlying dis- ing the price of gas to all. They gladly tricts. The brightest and cheapest street send men to give estimates for the use of lighting in the city is that secured from gas in the home. Write them or phone gas in connection with the latest inven- 3424. THE MID-PACIFIC 15 Day Trips for the Tourist

In the spacious travel bureau in the Koolau or windward side of the island, Wells-Fargo Express Co. Building on and that is by the boats of the Oahu King Street, the transportation companies Shipping Co. Ltd., of which Mr. Eben of Hawaii and the mainland are repre- Low is the manager. These boats take sented. Here is the office of the Southern freight from the foot of Fort Street to Pacific Railway, and if you wish any travel any part of Kaneohe Bay, and may be information concerning the islands or be- engaged for excursions to the windward yond, it may be secured in the Wells-Fargo side of Oahu or to the other Hawaiian Co. office, or you can phone No. 1515. Islands. Phone No. 3157. The Wells-Fargo Express Co. Travel Shark hunting is becoming one of the Bureau is the city agent for both the Oahu recognized sports for tourists and others Railway and the Koolau Railway, which, in Hawaii, and the Young Brothers have beginning at the end of the Oahu Railway a number of launches and may be ar- near the Marconi Wireless Station at ranged with for a shark hunt or trips to Kahuku, runs to Kahana through the most Pearl Harbor, or for a day's flying-fish beautiful scenery on the Island of Oahu, hunting or tuna trolling. The Trail and and within easy walking distance of the Mountain Club will assist in making up beautiful Kaliuwa Falls. The trains of these parties; or phone Young Bros. 2551. the Koolau Railway connect with those of With the Hawaiian Tuna Fishing Club the Oahu Railway. and other outing organizations going in The Hauula Hotel on the line of the for water sports near Honolulu, boat Koolau Railway, is also the terminus of building is being revived. The Walker the auto bus services from Honolulu. Brothers on King Street near Alapai, are This is an ideal hotel near the famous the boat builders of Honolulu. They Kaliuwa Falls, and on the sea at the foot have plans and photos of hundreds of Ha- of the mountains. Excellent meals and waiian water craft. They build every accommodations may be secured here, and kind of boat—sailing, gasoline, outrigger it makes a splendid auto outing for the canoes, and even surf boards. day. Arrangements can be made by phone —No. 031. The Western Pacific Railway, which is The Honolulu Tent and Awning Co. the new scenic route between San Fran- on Beretania and Emma Streets, Phone cisco and Salt Lake City, where it con- 3367, is the necessary adjunct of the Out- nects with the Denver & Rio Grande, has ing Club. Here the Trail and Mountain its office in Honolulu at 1816 Fort Street, Club member may secure his tent for F. L. Waldron being its Hawaiian repre- camping, the boat club member his sails, sentative. and the house owner in town or country, The Western Pacific has become known awnings for shelter tents. Tents and as the "scenic line of the world", and from sails of every every form and size are made Honolulu through bookings may be made to order by experienced men. by steamer, connecting at San Francisco There is another way of getting to the directly with the Western Pacific trains. 16' THE MID-PACIFIC Souvenirs of Hawaii

The Hawaiian ukulele was invented by the Nunes family in Honolulu, and the Nunes ukulele made by the Nunes Uku- lele Company is today the ukulele of quality, for the secret of its make is kept in the family. This is the Hawaiian ukulele that has the concession at the San Diego Exposition. It is made under the personal supervision of members of the Nunes family. The factory is in Ho- nolulu, 124 Beretania Street, and the phone number is 4026.

Next to the Bishop Museum, the great- Coconut matting is the one useful est and best Polynesian collection, is that manufactured product of Hawaii that is of the Island Curio Company with its typical of the south seas, and the Pacific headquarters on Hotel Street, Honolulu, Fibre Co. at 1382 Liliha Street, phone opposite the Alexander Young Hotel. The 4033 is now actively engaged in the busi- McNamara brothers have taken over this ness of turning this out in great beauty institution, which for nearly half a century and variety of design. Coconut fibre mat- has been stacking up these native curios ting mattresses are everlasting, and these from almost every part of the island Pa- goods make a splendid and useful souvenir or present to be sent to friends in the cific. This is one of the show places of States as well as for home use in the the city. Phone No. 3747. islands of Hawaii. Hawaiian mahogany is worked up into The house furnished, then the yard, some of the most beautiful furniture in the and chicken raising in Honolulu gives a world. The wood for this, called "koa" profit of from fifty to one hundred per is turned out by the Pahoa Lumber Mills cent. The California Feed Co. of Hono- of Puna near Hilo, Hawaii, where mil- lulu will give full instructions to anyone lions of feet of the wonderful Hawaiian hardwood, ohia, are made into crossties for who is interested in chicken raising—as western American railways, as well as pre- to the best methods of procedure, how to pared for flooring, commercial uses, inter- start, how to avoid and cure "sore head," ior finishing and paving blocks, etc., Bishop and some general "dont's" in the raising & Co. in Honolulu being the agents. of chickens will be given free. Phone No. Hawaiian souvenir jewelry is always in 4121. great demand by both the tourist and the The famous writer and composer of resident. J. A. R. Vierra & Co. on Hotel Street, near Fort, are the jewelers who popular Hawaiian songs, "Sonny Cunha", make a specialty of this, as well as the is always found at the Honolulu Music handling of every kind of high class time Co. store on Fort St., above Hotel. Here pieces and modern jewelry. The engrav- is the piano salesroom of Honolulu, here ing plant and factory is on the same prem- the Hawaiian singers record their songs on ises with the show rooms, so that special discs, and here is the home of Music, orders may be quickly and accurately turned out under the eyes of the men to Sonny Cunha and the Honolulu Music whom are submitted the details. Company. THE MID-PACIFIC 17 Hotels and Boarding Houses

The Moana Hotel at Waikiki (under same management as the Alexander Young and the Royal Hawaiian.)

THE MAJESTIC, at the corner of Fort and THE MACDONALD on Punahou Street Beretania Streets, is the most convenient near the car line, a colonial building, hotel for those who are employed down spacious grounds. Rates from $1.50 a town. Rooms from a dollar a day up, day, $10 a week, $40 a month. Phone and from $3.50 a week. Rooms only. 1113. Phone 2744. THE SEASIDE on famous Waikiki Beach. THE BLAISDELL. The newest down town Cottages in a royal coconut grove. Rates hotel, occupying a block on Fort Street. from $3.00 a day, $75 a month. Ideal Splendid rooms from $1.00 a day and $20 Tourist Hotel. Phone 4918. a month. Phone 1267. THE Y.W.C.A. has its reading, lunch- HUSTACE VILLA Waikiki Beach, superb room and restaurant in the Boston Build- bathing; twenty minutes by electric car ing, Fort Street. At the Homestead on from city. Rates $40 a month. Phone King Street, excellent room and board 2826. may be secured for $1.25 a day, $30.00 a THE CASSIDY. On the beach. Family month. Phone 1362. cottages. Canoes for guests, splendid THE PACIFIC SANITORIUM, 1451 Kewalo bathing. Get off the car at Cassidy Sta- Street. Ideal for rest. Trained nurses in tion. Rates $35 a month. Phone 2879. abundance, from $25 a week. Phone 1153. EL VERANO, G. W. Dyson, manager, at VIDA VILLA, 1040 King Street. Cars 1049 Beretania Street, Phone 2004, is a every five minutes to business center or to charming cottage home hotel group di- Waikiki. Many cottages, splendid grounds. rectly on the car line, the rates are $35 a $1.50 a day, $35 a month up. Phone 1146. month up. THE ARGONAUT, 627 S. Beretania. The home of the bachelor of moderate means HALEKULANI, on the beach at Waikiki, who wishes to live amid pleasant surround- is the old Hau Tree, of which Mrs. C. N. ings. Phone 1308. Arnold is manager. Phone 1389. This is THE DONNA, in the fashionable district, an exclusive seaside house, the rates being cottages on Beretania, Keeaumoku and from $60 a month up. Piikoi Streets. Permanent guests $45 a THE SWEET SHOP, on Hotel Street, op- month. Tourists in season. Phone 2480. posite the Alexander Young, is the one THE COURTLAND at the corner of Puna- reasonable priced tourist restaurant ; hou and Beretania Streets, in the heart of here there is a quartette of Hawaiian the residence district on the car line. singers and players, and here at every Rates from $2.00 to $3.50 a day. Phone hour may be enjoyed at very reasonable 1934. prices the delicacies of the season. 18 THE MID-PACIFIC

The Banks of Honolulu

THE FIRST NATIONAL BANK OF HONOLULU.

The Banking House of Bishop & Co. was established August 17, 1858, and has occupied its premises on the corner of Merchant and Kaahumanu streets since the year 1877. The operations of this Bank began with the encouragement of the whaling business, then the leading industry of the Islands, and the institu- tion has ever since been closely identified with the industrial and commercial progress of the Islands. The partners in the firm consist of Mr. S. M. Damon, Mr. Allen W. T. Bottomley and J. L. Cockburn. On June 30, 1913, the deposits with this bank amounted to $6,493,462.87. BANK OF HONOLULU, LTD., located on Fort street, is an old established financial institution. It draws exchange on the prin- cipal parts of the world, issues cable transfers, and transacts a general bank- ing business. The entrance to the Bank of Hawaii, The Yokohama Specie Bank, a branch the premier bank of Honolulu, with a of the famous Japanese institution, with a capital, surplus and undivided profits subscribed capital of $24,000,000 and a amounting to nearly a million and a half, paid-up capital of $15,000,000, occupies its or more than the total of any other bank magnificent new building at the corner of in the Hawaiian Islands. It has its own Merchant and Bethel streets, opposite the magnificent building at the busiest busi- postoffice and Bishop & Co. It is the ness corner of Honolulu, Merchant and most up-to-date fireproof building in Ha- Fort streets ; has a savings department and waii, the interior being finished in bronze was organized in 1897. marble. THE MID-PACIFIC 19 The Trust Companies of Hawaii

The home of the Trent Trust Co. on Fort Street.

Honolulu was one of the first cities to are closely identified with the largest adopt the idea of the trust company, and business interests in the Territory. Its the Hawaiian Trust Co., organized in directors and officers are men of ability, integrity and high standing in the com- 1898, was the first to be established on the munity. The Company was incorporated islands; J. R. Galt is its present head. in June of 1911 with a capital of $100,000 The Hawaiian Trust Co. was the first fully paid. Its rapid growth necessitated to be organized in Hawaii, in 1898, it now doubling this capital. On June 30th, 1913, occupies quarters built for it on King St., the Capital of the Company was $200,- near Fort, with safety vaults equal to al- 000 ; Surplus $10,000, and Undivided Profits $22,573.77. It conducts a trust most any in America. The Hawaiian company business in all its various lines Trust Co. has charge of nearly $10,000,- with offices in the Stangenwald Building, 000 worth of property. It insures build- Merchant St., adjoining Bank of Hawaii. ings, collects rents, makes repairs, pays The First Trust Co. of Hilo, Limited, taxes and turns over to heirs or owners is one of the rapidly growing institutions their just returns. The home of the Ha- of the Crescent City. Situated in the waiian Trust Co. is well worth a visit. bank building it is in the heart of the Phone 1255. business center and every year its business The Guardian Trust Company, Ltd., shows a substantial increase. C. C. Ken- is the most recently incorporated Trust nedy is President and H. B. Mariner, Company in Honolulu. Its stockholders Treasurer and Manager.

The Henry Waterhouse Trust Company occupies the ground floor of the Campbell block on Fort St., and partly on Merchant St. This is the. business center of the city, here stocks and bonds are exchanged, insurance issued and real estate handled. Here is the home of the Kaimuki Land Co., and safety vaults. 20 THE MID-PACIFIC Stock, Bonds and Real Estate

STOCKS, BONDS & REAL ESTATE Hawaiian stocks and bonds is worth se- IN HAWAII. curing and considering. The Honolulu Stock and Bond Ex- James F. Morgan & Co., Ltd., in the change has its board and exchange room in Star-Bulletin Building on Merchant St., the Bank of Hawaii Building. Every is the old established real estate firm of year this organization issues a booklet on the city. It has taken in new young "Hawaiian Securities", which may be had blood, and is progressive all along the by addressing any member of the board. line. The members of the Honolulu Stock and C. H. Desky, the pioneer of extensive Bond Exchange are: real estate enterprises in Honolulu, has his office at 912 Fort Street, Phone 2161, William Williamson, of Williamson & where he represents the Woodlawn Land Buttolph, with their office at 83 Merchant Co., and the Mclnerny Tracts. Street, phone 1482. This firm can give Oliver G. Lansing, 80 Merchant St., much information concerning the value of Phone 3593, not only deals in real estate, the $10,000,000 worth of stocks sometimes but builds bungalow cottages for his sold by the members of the exchange dur- clients or rents them houses ready for oc- ing the year. cupation. Baldwin & Alexander, in the Bank of The Kaimuki Land Co., in the Henry Hawaii, Phone 1613, is the oldest and Waterhouse Trust Co. Ltd., Phone 1208, most reliable firm of surveyors in the Ter- still holds several choice tracts and lots ritory of Hawaii, and it is important to in the famous high residence district about have the advice of the Kamaaina, or old Diamond Head—healthful Kaimuki. resident. H. L. Kerr, the dean of Honolulu archi- J. R. Wilson at 925 Fort St., Phone tects, has his office in the McCandless 3666, is a real estate agent who handles Building. He has superintended the com- property in every section of Honolulu pletion of the McCandless building as and has had much experience on the coast, well as of houses innumerable in Honolulu. knowing the comparative value of prop- Phone 2187. erty. The dean of Honolulu land companies Albert F. Afong, whose office is at 832 is also located in this building, the Pablo Fort Street, Phone 2407, was born in Ho- Land and Improvement Co., A. F. Cooke nolulu, and knows the details of the sugar manager. Phone 2181. This company stocks, that in the aggregate pay nearly has splendid properties in Pablo Valley, $10,000,000 a year in dividends. and upon Wilhelmina Rise, which over- Giffard & Roth on the ground floor of looks Kaimuki and Diamond Head. the Stangenwald Building, Merchant St., Phone 2641, represented by H. B. Giffard, who from lifelong experience in Hawaii knows the real value of local stock and bonds. A. J. Campbell (former Territorial Treasurer) at 79 Merchant Street (Camp- bell Block) Phone 2326, is one of the kamaainas or old citizens, whose advice on THE MID-PACIFIC 21 The Alexander Young Building

The von Hamm Young Co., Importers, waiian News Co. stores of interest, as this Machinery Merchants and leading auto- concern is constantly adding new features mobile dealers, have their offices and store and new stock. The business man will in the Alexander Young Building, at the find his every need in the office is supplied corner of King and Bishop Streets, and by the Hawaiian News Co. merely on a their magnificent automobile salesroom and call over the phone, and this is true also garage just in the rear, facing on Alakea of the fashionable society leader, whether street. Here one may find almost any- her needs are for a bridge party, a dance, thing. Phone No. 4901. or just plain stationery. The exhibit rooms Next is the cable office, and then the of the Hawaiian News Co. are interesting. great store of the Hawaii & South Sea Phone No. 2294. Island Curio Co., where souvenirs from Next door is the great double store of every part of Hawaii and the Pacific are the Coyne Furniture Co., the largest in kept in stock. The spacious store is a Honolulu, and here may be studied all of veritable museum of Polynesia and the the latest importations in furniture from South Seas. There are the distinctive leis the coast, although the Coyne Furniture from each of the islands, Hawaiian uku- Co. has a local factory of its own, and leles, Samoan Tapa, Fijian war clubs ; be- will undertake to manufacture any kind of sides souvenir cards and south sea photo- Hawaiian hard wood furniture that the graphs of every conceivable object. This customer may desire. In addition to the company has the curio concession in the big store there is a well filled store house, Hawaiian Building at the Panama Expo- for the Coyne Furniture Co. has equipped sition. Phone No. 1374. itself to fill any order for furniture in Ha- waii. Phone No. 2415. The largest of the very fashionable Ernest Kaai, the famous Hawaiian mu- shops in the Alexander Young Building, sician, has his Hawaiian conservatory in occupying the very central portion, is that of the Hawaiian News Co. Here the the Alexander Young Building, and here ultra-fashionable stationery of the latest he teaches the use of the native Hawaiian design is kept in stock. Every kind of ukulele. It is the Kaai Glee Club that paper, wholesale or retail is supplied, as provides all of the social music for Hono- well as printers' and binders' supplies. lulu. In Hawaii, people dance to vocal as There are musical instruments of every well as to instrumental music, and all of kind in stock, even to organs and pianos, Kaai's musicians are excellent singers, who and the Angelus Player Piano. Either the sing both in English and in Hawaiian. resident or the tourist will find the Ha- Phone 3687. 22 THE MID-PACIFIC Home Life in Honolulu

Honolulu's big department store, W. W. Dimond & Co., on King St. Phone 4937.

"Maile" Australian butter from the from a gallon of cream up is delivered Metropolitan Meat Market on King at once by auto truck. Street, stands at the head for flavor and Ice is a cheap commodity in Honolulu. keeping quality and is guaranteed. It is It is delivered at half a cent a pound or here you also get the tender meats and less, and of the best and purest quality. fresh vegetables of which an abundant The Oahu Ice and Electric Co. supplies supply is always on hand. Heilbron & the Army in Honolulu at a cheaper rate Louis, proprietors, have built up a won- than the United States Government can derful business until now the Metropolitan buy ice in Alaska. The works and cold Meat Market is the central and most storage rooms are in the Kakaako district, popular market place in Honolulu. Phone but a phone message to 1218 will answer. 1814. Henry May & Co. on Fort Street, oc- The best thing on ice in Honolulu cupying the entire street floor of the soda water. The Consolidated Soda Water Boston Building, are the leading grocers of Works Co., Ltd., 601 Fort Street, are the Honolulu. It would take hours to take largest in the Territory. Aerated waters stock of the domestic and imoortfd e cost from 35 cents a dozen bottles up. and drinkables sold at this "housekeeper's The Consolidated Co. are agents for Hires ally". Kona coffee (native) is a specialty Root Beer and put up a Kola Mint as is the gas roaster and coffee mill. Every aerated water that is delicious, besides a steamer brings California fruits, vegetables score of other flavors. Phone 2171 for a and farm products. Phone 1271. case, or try a bottle at any store. Love's Bakery at 1134 Nuuanu Street, Phone 1431, is the bakery of Honolulu. The best ice cream, and the most reason- Its auto wagons deliver each morning fresh able in price in Hawaii is Rawley's, Phone from the oven, the delicious baker's bread 4225. At the main office on Fort Street, and rolls consumed in Honolulu, while all near Beretania, butter is churned daily, the grocery stores carry the Love Bakery the milk coming direct from Rawley's crisp fresh crackers and biscuits that come dairy farm, where the fresh eggs on sale from the oven daily. Love's Bakery has in the store are also laid. For buttermilk the most complete and up to date machin- or ice cream visit Rawley's Any order ery and equipment -in the territory. THE MID-PACIFIC -)3 The Woman's Corner

The New "Sachs" Store on Hotel Street near Fort.

"Sachs", the oldest established dry goods or you may order views made of any bit house in Honolulu, has moved into a of scenery that interests you, for the building of its own in the very heart of Kodograph Shop has its corps of land- the fashionable district, on Hotel Street, scape photographers. Phone No. 3336. one door from Fort, and diagonally oppo- Centrally located, in Honolulu's com- site the Alexander Young Hotel. For over modious shopping district, is the Manu- a quarter of a century this store has held facturer's Shoe Co., Ltd. Here the most an enviable reputation for highclass mer- fastidious shoppers are drawn by the al- chandise. The beautiful court dresses luring display of footwear shown in the worn at the receptions and balls in the days of the Hawaiian Monarchy were artistic windows. Satisfaction is one (..f made by the firm. Then, as now, Sachs' the assurances with which a purchase is was the rendezvous for ladies who desired made, whether it be a pair of laces, or a the very best in Silks and Dress Fabrics, pair of dainty evening slippers so neces- Tapestries, Draperies, Linens, Laces and sary to the happiness of the well dressed Millinery. woman of today. A general line of shoes Next door to Sachs' is the Kodograph from heavy boots suitable for out of doors, Shop. Here you may have your picture to dame fashion's latest dictation for the taken in a moment on a post card, pur- ballroom, is carried for the hosts of chase your kodak supplies, have films de- friends and patrons of the firm. Seldom veloped and printed, purchase photographs does this attractive store front escape the cf Hawaiian scenery from each and every eye of the visitor to Honolulu. Once in- one of the islands, or select an assortment side one finds a courteous force of sales- of curios and souvenirs for yourself or to men ever on the alert to minister to the send to friends in other parts of the world ; wants of particular people. 24 THE MID-PACIFIC Greater Honolulu

The Works of the Hawaiian Fertilizer Co., Ltd. This Company Stores its Fertilizer in Honolulu in the Largest Concrete Building West of the Rockies.

Whitney & Marsh at 1045 Fort Street, Next to the Marconi Wireless on Fort in the center of the fashionable shopping Street is the Office Supply Co., the home district, maintain the foremost children's of the Remington Typewriter in Hawaii, and ladies' furnishing house in Honolulu. and the Globe-Wernicke filing and book A specialty is made of fine lingerie and cases. Every kind of office furniture is children's clothing, while mothers find kept in stock by the Office Supply Co. as every style in fashionable wear direct from well as a complete line of office stationery. Paris and New York. The "Ladies Home There is a repair shop for typewriters, and Journal" patterns are kept, and French every necessary article that the man of handmade underwear and dresses for business might need. Phone 3843. women and children is a specialty. Phone Honolulu is so healthy that people don't 1725. usually die there, but when they do they The Mutual Telephone Co. works in phone in advance to Henry H. Williams, close accord with the Marconi Wireless, 1146 Fort street, phone number 1408, and controls the wireless service between and he arranges the after details. If you the Hawaiian Islands, as well as the tele- are a tourist and wish to be interred in phone service throughout Hawaii. For a dollar and a half a night letter of twenty- your own plot on the mainland, Williams five words may be sent to any part of the will embalm you; or he will arrange all territory. Honolulu was the first city in details for interment in Honolulu. Don't the world to install a house to house tele- leave the Paradise of the Pacific for any phone system, and Hawaii the first country other, but if you must, let your friends to commercially install wireless telegraphy. talk it over with Williams. THE MID-PACIFIC 25 For the Tourist

Hawaii is the Big Island. Hilo is the chief port and from Hilo excursions are made up to all the points of interest. The Hilo Board of Trade has recently taken up the matter of home promotion work and is developing the wonderful scenic surroundings of Hilo. Trails are being cut to the beauty spots, and roads put in The Honolulu Automobile Stand at order. It was the Hilo Board of Trade Hotel and Alakea streets, Phone 1005, that called the first civic convention which has a splendid rent service at very mod- is now bringing all the Hawaiian Islands erate rates and a complete repair shop. together to work for each other. The "White Wings" is the call for Taxis Hilo Board of Trade is taking the lead in in Honolulu, as that emblem is the trade- Home Promotion work in these islands. mark on the Honolulu Taxi-cab. Every- In this line of work the Hilo Board of one now uses the taxi, as this is the cheap- Trade has the hearty co-operation of the est way, and to have one of the White Hilo Railway. This Railway has recently Wings call for you, all that is necessary extended its rails thirty-two miles along is to signal a "White Wings" on the the precipitous coasts of Lapauhoehoe and street, call at the spacious garage on Nuu- beyond. This thirty-two mile rail trip is anu near Beretania, or better still just one of the scenic trips of the world. The phone 4988. Hilo Railway also extends in the opposite The Reliable Auto Shop, at Queen and direction to the hot springs of Puna, and a Richards streets, has the largest workshop branch with the Auto Service takes the and yard area of any repair works in tourist from the steamer wharf to the edge Honolulu. William Hale and his own of the ever active Kilauea. white assistants make the repairs, and are If you have films, or need supplies, The on call day and night for assistance or Honolulu Photo Supply Co., Kodak head- supplies if you but ring up 4244. quarters, Fort Street, develops and prints The Auto Service and Supply Co., Ltd., for tourists within a few hours. All has its headquarters in Honolulu at the photo supplies, films, film packs, plates, corner of Merchant and Alakea streets. cameras, island scenes, photographs, etc., This concern has the exclusive agency for always in stock. Developing 4x5 plates the best of Auto, Motorcycle and Bicycle or film packs, 70 cents a dozen ; roll films, tires, the "Goodyear". It has an excellent 60 cents a dozen ; printing, 70 cents. Fresh vulcanizing department, handles the Mono- films packed in hermetically-sealed tins for gram oils and greases and the Minute use in the tropics at no extra charge. metal polish for Hawaii. Phone 4688. The Honolulu Welding & Machine Co., Duncan's Gymnasium, 258 Beretania 207 Queen street, phone 3184, is the com- Street, near Central Union Church, is the plete establishment of its king in Hono- most useful institution in Honolulu. In lulu. This concern has grown until it this perfectly equipped establishment men now occupies spacious quarters with the and boys are made strong, they are treated latest up-to-date auto repair and welding machinery of every description, and the and trained scientifically, and a visit to most expert workmen in the territory. the delightfully located gymnasium build- Phone 3184. ing is well worth while. Phone 3524. 26 THE MID-PACIFIC Womens Needs

B. F. Ehlers & Co., the leading woman's store in Honolulu, occupies the largest space in the fashionable Fort Street block between King and Hotel Sts.

The leading music store in Hawaii is anese dry goods, curios, silks and general also on this block—The Bergstrom Music merchandise. The business was establish- Co. No home is complete in Honolulu ed in 1905. Address P. 0. Box 876, or without a ukulele, a piano and a Victor phone 1375. talking machine. The Bergstrom Music At 1130 Fort Street, almost next to the Co., with its big store on Fort Street, will Hollister Drug Co. is the very fashion- provide you with these—a Chickering, a able millinery firm of MacGregor & Blatt. Weber, a Kroeger for your mansion, or a Phone 3735. The ladies of this firm tiny upright Boudoir for your cottage; make a specialty of importing the very and if you are a transient it will rent you latest ideas from Paris and New York, a piano. The Bergstrom Music Co., while for those who are interested in Ha- phone 2331. waiian straw hats, they have these made One of the largest Japanese merchan- by Hawaiians and adapt them to the latest dising establishments in the Islands is that modes in trimmings. This millinery store controlled and managed by Taisuke Mura- in the very heart of the shopping district, kami and located at 32-34 Hotel Street, maintains an excellent show room in which near Nuuanu street, Honolulu. This firm imports direct from the Orient and may be studied everything that is stylish deals both wholesale and retail in Jap- in women's headwear.

Above is pictured a part of the interior of the leading store on this main thorough- fare—that of H. F. Wichman & Co.,—jewelers, which occupies nearly half of the block between King and Fort Streets. THE MID-PACIFIC 77

Man's Needs

Silva's Toggery, on King Street, exhibits the finest display of Men's and Boys' Clothing to be seen in Ha- waii. Everything to equip the polite man is kept in stock.

For shoes—the Walkover, the best in The Union Pacific Transfer Co. Ltd., quality and most durable for use in Ha- 176 South King Street, Phone 1875, is the waii—it is necessary to call on the Jacob- convenient call for those who wish any son Bros. Shoe Store in the Pantheon moving done, or who are about to make a Building, Hotel St., near Fort. The kind trip, or who have friends arriving on any of shoe that is needed for the climate and steamer. The offices of the Union Pacific wear in Honolulu is kept in stock in great Transfer Co. on King Street adjoin the variety and it is well to try the Walkover. Alexander Young Building, and are op- Phone 3601. posite the Lewers & Cooke Building—con- The White Seal Laundry Co. Ltd. is venient to all. the latest word in Hawaii in the careful The City's great furniture store, that of washing, cleaning and repairing of shirts J. Hopp & Co., occupies a large portion of and all kinds of clothing. With the latest the Lewers & Cooke Block on King St. and best equipment of laundry machinery, Here the latest styles in home and office it is backed, owned and operated by several furniture arriving constantly from San of Honolulu's leading citizens, and its Francisco, are displayed on several spacious work is the best in the city. Phone 5081. floors. Phone No. 2111.

A corner of H. Culman's factory. The sales rooms are at the corner of Hotel and Fort Streets, Honolulu. Hawaiian Jewelry and Curios. 28 THE MID-PACIFIC Home Building in Honolulu

',4111.1114,111,11. ■11111111!111,111111;,

Entrance of Lewers & Cooke's large establishment.

The Pacific Engineering Co., with spac- position needed in Hawaii for homes and ious offices in the Yokohama Specie Bank business buildings. The Honolulu Lava Building, are engineers and constructors Brick Co. crushes the lava rock and molds of buildings of every kind, from the smallest it into perfect bricks, as hard and more private residence to the largest and most durable than adamant. They may be imposing blocks. Being composed of some made in any color, but the beautiful of the most prominent men in the islands, natural grey is lending an individuality to it is not surprising that it has secured the newer architecture of Honoluulu and large and important contracts, including Hawaii. For information Phone 3131. the construction of the new Y.M.C.A. The Honolulu Construction & Draying Ripley & Davis, in the Boston Building, Co. has its offices at 65 Queen Street. A Phone 3003, were the architects of the postal or telephone call, 2281, will be re- magnificent National Guard of Hawaii sponded to by a foreman, who will give Armory, of the new office building of the full particulars and a careful estimtae. Honolulu Iron Works, and of many of There is nothing in the building and con- Honolulu's most distinguished buildings. struction line that this company is not Their designs of residences are equal in splendidly qualified to undertake. It also effect to their work on the public build- maintains an excellent and reliable baggage ings that help to beautify Honolulu. express service. Its directors and managers The best edifices in Hawaii nowadays are among the responsible business men of are built of Lava Brick. This is the corn- the city. THE MID-PACIFIC 29 The Regal Shoe in Honolulu

The home of the "Regal Shoe" in Honolulu at the corner of Fort and Hotel Streets.

You cannot miss the sign of "Davison The leaders of fashion in women's hats Gowns" above that of "Ye Regal" at the are also located in this building. Mesdames corner of Hotel and Fort streets, Hono- Milton and Parsons display in their Fort lulu's two leading thoroughfares. The up- Street windows the latest creations in per front of this most modern building of ladies' hatwear, while in this building, Honolulu's shopping district is occupied by connecting with the show rooms, they have the foremost and largest dressmaking estab- an efficient force of expert workers who, lishment in Hawaii. The entrance is on under the personal guidance of Mesdames Fort Street near Hotel. They carry the Milton & Parsons, carry out the wishes of latest creations in modish gowns. Here customers in creating the most effective the latest fashions of New York, London headwear suited to the customer or the and Paris are made up by imported work- dress with which the hat is to be worn. men of world-wide experience. You do Visitors may be quickly fitted with the not have to wait for your gown to come best and most appropriate hatwear. Phone from New York—Davison makes it pos- 3088. sible for you to keep just ahead of the ar- The Ukulele is the Hawaiian musical riving styles in Honolulu. Phone No. 3857. instrument that has become known the Wall-Nichols & Co. Ltd. occupy with world over. The real Hawaiian ukulele their splendid toy department, magazine is manufactured by Jonah Kumalae at counter, stationery supplies, sheet music, 1719 Liliha Street, phone 2384. Here a etc., the spacious store in the center of force of Hawaiian workmen who know the block on King Street, between Fort and love the ukulele are kept employed on and Bethel, while their complete sporting the manufactory of this remarkable little goods store and typewriter supply depart- instrument, and from this factory the curio ment is located in the McCandless Build- ing at the corner of King and Bethel Sts. stores of Hawaii as well as the music Phone No. 4060. stores of the mainland are supplied. 30 THE MID-PACIFIC

E. 0. Hall & Son, Cor. Fort and King Streets.

Chambers Drug Store, Fort and King and the art department is complete. This Streets, is the actual center of life and is the oldest dry goods store in Honolulu, activity in Honolulu. Here at the inter- and under a new management it is becom- section of the tram lines, the shoppers, ing the most enterprising. The store is business men, and tourists await their cars, under the personal direction of an ener- chatting at the open soda fountain, that is getic manager, and shopping on Fort Street the feature of Chambers Drug Store. Here is not complete without a visit to Jordan's. the tourist and stranger is advised as to the sights of the city, and supplied with In planning your home or other struc- any perfumes, candies or drugs he may ture, Emory & "Webb the architects at need during his stay. Chambers Drug 925 Fort Street can give you splendid as- Store is one of the institutions of Hono- istance, showing their plans or many lulu. Phone No. 1291. homes and structures designed to suit the At Jordan's, on Fort Street, you will climate, and that have already been built usually find a sale in progress. This is in Honolulu. The pictures of some of the store of bargains in silks and notions. these may be seen in these pages. Call or The McCall Patterns are kept in stock, phone 1106.

The Standard Optical Company on Fort Street above Hotel. Telephone 3875. THE MID-PACIFIC 3 Oriental Honolulu

The most interesting spot in the Ori- and manager. This plant at Queen and ental quarter is the Chinese restaurant of Kekaulike Streets is one of Honolulu's Yee Yi Chan, at 119 Hotel Street, the leading enterprises, doing a flourishing best Oriental eating house in the city. lumber and mill business. Here, upstairs, you may enjoy a simple Mr. K. 0. Kam, manager and organizer Chinese meal or an elaborate banquet, as of the City Mercantile Co. at 24 Hotel you wish. Street, Honolulu, is ranked as one of the Mr. Chu Gem, Honolulu's most re- rising young business men of the city. The spected Chinese business man, is a director company deals in all household utensils, of the Home Insurance Co., and head of and courteous treatment is extended to all the firm of Quong Sam Kee Co., at the who do business with them. corner of King and Maunakea St., which Mr. Lee Chu of the Lee Chu Lumber supplies the local dealers of the territory Co. at Pauahi and River Streets, was the with drugs and general merchandise. first Chinese to engage in the lumber busi- To the tourist and visitor, the drug ness in Hawaii, and his steadily growing stores in the Chinese quarter are fascinat- business denotes him to be a leader in the ing and interesting in the extreme. The lumber trade, as his well stocked yards in- best of these are conducted by Yang Cheu dicate. Mr. Lee Chu is the principal own- Kiam, one at 1071 Aala St., one at 1036 er and manager of this large and pro- Maunakea Street, and one at the corner gressive company. of Beretania and Fort Streets. Mr. Yang The Kwong Yuen Hing Co., at 50-58 came to Honolulu in 1882 and has amas- King St., between Nuuanu and Smith Sts., sed a fortune. are the largest importers and wholesale Whatever you do, do not fail to visit dealers in Chinese Mattings, Fine Teas the wonderful Oahu Fish Market on King and General Merchandise. Street. Early morning is the best time for People on Oahu can telephone 1484, and this, when all the multi-colored fish of those away will have their needs promptly Hawaiian waters are presented to view attended to by writing to Kwong Yuen and every nationality of the islands is on Hing Co., P. 0. Box 992, Honolulu, parade inspecting. Mr. Y. Anin is the Hawaii. leading spirit and founder of the Oahu Mr. Goo Kim Fook stands as a leader Fish Market, which is a Chinese institu- among the Chinese, and as part owner and tion of which the city is proud. manager of the Kong Sang Yuen Co. dry Also on King Street at the corner of goods store at 1071 Nuuanu St., between Bethel, is the dry goods emporium of Yee King and Hotel Streets, and receives the Chan & Co. Here may be seen a splendid trade of all nationalities. Mr. Fook's son display of imported Chinese and Japanese is associated with him in business at the silks, all kinds of fancy dry goods, grass Kong Sang Yuen Co. store. linen goods, clothing, hats, shoes, trunks, Unadulterated bread and pastry is an travelling cases, etc. All tourists are in- essential need in every home—the Sam Wo vited to visit Yee Chan & Co. Co. bakery at 384 North Beretania St., A monument to the pluck and energy of under the management of S. Lum Fat, has Mr. C. K. Ai and his associates is the for years supplied the homes of Honolulu City Mill Co. of which he is treasurer with pure bread and pastry.

MIL 32 THE MID-PACIFIC New York to Hawaii

American-Hawaiian S. S. Co. Steamers, plying between New York and via the Panama Canal and San Francisco. Approximate time in transit, 38 days. The American-Hawaiian Paper Co. Every steamer is met in Honolulu by Ltd., at Queen and Fort streets, are the the auto truck of the City Transfer Co., big importers, via the Panama Canal, of James H. Love, Manager. The store- paper of every kind; from that used by house is on King Street near Fort, and the daily newspapers to the most delicate here your trunk may be sent for storage ladies' notepaper. Every thing in station- until you are ready for it to be taken to ery and office supplies may be purchased the departing steamer, for the City Trans- here, either wholesale or retail. Phone 1410. fer Co. auto trucks carry the baggage of Honolulu to the steamer. Phone 1281. With the wood that is used for building Hustace-Peck & Co., Ltd., on Queen in Hawaii, Allen & Robinson on Queen Street, Phone 2105, have for generations Street, Phone 2295, prepare the crushed rock used in the construction of the mod- supplied the people of Honolulu and those ern building in Hawaii. They also main- on the other islands; also their buildings and paints. Their office is on Queen St., tain their own stables and drays. Draying near the Inter-Island S. N. Co. Building, in Honolulu is an important business, and and their lumber yards extend right back Hustace-Peck are the pioneers in this line, to the harbor front, where every kind of and keep drays of every size, sort and de- hard and soft wood grown on the coast is scription for the use of those who require landed by the schooners that ply from them. They also conduct a rock crusher Puget Sound. and supply wood and coal.

One of the kind of buildings completed almost weekly in Honolulu by the Lord-Young Engineering Co., Ltd.

alb Ae Hawaiian Pineapple

Although Hawaii is sending forty will become one of the most important million tins of pineapple to America a breakfast fruits on the American table. A year at present, if the past is any cri- member of the United States Geological terion of the future, in two or three Survey, who credits his own splendid health to the generous use of pineapples, more years these island possessions advises all to follow his example and be will be sending to the people of the well. 'If you have one foot in the grave, United States enough sliced pineapples and are a nervous wreck from the attacks in cans to give to every man, woman of dyspepsia,' he declared, 'drink pineapple and child residing in America a full juice. It is the grandest tonic that nature can of Hawaiian pineapples. The pine- has yet offered poor man, and is even bet- apple is the one fruit that grows better ter as a weapon against old age and de- on Hawaiian soil and in the Hawaiian creptitude than the sour-milk diet that climate than it does anywhere else in has made the Bulgarian peasants the the world. So perfect is its sweetness longest-lived people on the face of the earth.' and flavor that it requires no addition of sugar. Speaking of the Hawaiian "The juice of the pine contains the na- tural ferments of healthy digestion to a pineapple in a recent issue the Tea and remarkable degree. It is far better even Coffee Trade Journal, a well-known than sour milk, because, unlike the milk, authority, spakes as follows : it does not have to digest itself. Sour milk, containing so much fat and solid THE PINEAPPLE A WEAPON AGAINST matter, has a great deal of work to do OLD AGE. disposing of itself before it can assist in the digestion of other food in the stomach. "The public has only lately become I really believe if we adopted the pineap- aware of the high grade of Hawaiian can- ple juice as a national beverage, Ameri- ned pineapples. It is believed those in- cans would be the healthiest people on the terested in the development of the industry face of the earth. We would never know that it will not be long until the pineapple what dyspepsia and indigestion are.'

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