2009 & 2010 New Releases

GUILHEM ET JEAN-HUGUES Goisot “No one but no one delivers more quality for the price than Goisot. The quality is flat out amazing, particularly given the modest appellations with which he works.” Allen Meadows, Burghound, 2011. “Simply stunning...here, surely, is one of the greatest Domaines of the Yonne...” Le Grand Guide des Vins de France, 2011. 2009 & 2010 NEW RELEASES Below we offer the coveted and remarkably priced new vintages from the ‘Pope of St Bris’. Pure, textural, limestone-enriched Chardonnay and vinous Sauvignons from St-Bris and Côte d’Auxerre. Piquant, lacy Pinot Noir from Irancy and Côte d’Auxerre. Two top-drawer vintages; pulsatingly mineral 2009s and intense, low yielding and piercingly fresh 2010s. In Les Meilleurs Vins de France (France’s leading wine guide) only two Do - maines in the entire Yonne/Chablis area receive a higher rating than Goisot: Vincent Dauvissat and Raveneau. Enough said! The wines of Domaine Goisot are for those open- possible. The vineyards are planted to 10,000 vines per minded drinkers who don’t stress over vineyard names, acre, roughly twice the regional norm. They also em - preferring instead the quality and integrity they find in ploy more than twice the staff members per hectare. the glass. In this case they will find a great deal of both. Goisot has one person per two and a half hectares, These are textural yet racy wines with a rich, stony compared to the six hectare average. The viticulture is complexity that speaks loudly of the chalky soils of the certified biodynamic and yields are kept very low. They greater Chablis area. Think of everything you would use only homeopathic, natural treatments in the vine - want from a great Chablis producer (i.e, more supple - yard and harvests are done exclusively by hand, with ness, complexity and less austerity) and you will be on several passes through the vineyard. In the winery the the right track. philosophy is classic ‘minimalist’ with natural yeasts, a long, slow elevage and minimal fining and filtration only Like all of France’s greatest winegrowers, father Jean- if required. Very few Chablis producers can match these Hugues and son Guilhem work tirelessly in their vine - exacting viticulture standards. yards to produce the highest standards of grapes BIBENDUM WINE Co | 1300 610 919 ST BRIS This appellation only received official AOC status in 2003 and is located around the village of Saint-Bris-le-Vineux, only a few kilometres southwest of the Chablis region. It was once part of Chablis and is unique in that the whites that carry the name must be made from Sauvignon Blanc or Sauvignon Gris/Fié Gris, rather than Chardonnay. Goisot was the producer to reintroduce this latter variety to the re - gion, as they feel it produces a far higher quality wine com - pared to Sauvignon Blanc. It is certainly very different. Anyway if you are anti Sauvignon, do yourself a favour and forget the variety: it is the terroir (Burgundian through and through) that speaks the loudest in the wines here. Compared to Chablis, the soil here is even richer in Kimmeridgian lime - stone and chalk. In the hands of a great vigneron like Goisot, the resulting wines are complex, creamy and mineral rich, putting most Chablis to shame. They can also cellar well. CôTES d'A UxERRE From just outside the AOC of Chablis and south of the city of Aux - Map © Jancis Robinson.com erre. Here we return to Chardonnay for the whites and Pinot Noir for the reds. Again, with the whites from Goisot, it is easy to close your eyes and imagine you are drinking the finest Chablis, however here there is perhaps more flesh and more complexity. Goisot has a number of parcels, most famously; Biaumont, Gondonne, and Gueules de Loup, which are bottled separately in the better years. The soils here are again typically very rich in limestone and chalk (down to some 80 metres in depth). The Goisot Cote d’Auxerre reds (Pinot Noir) can be superb, having the brightness and general personality that reminiscent of good Côte Chalonnaise reds. IRANCy Irancy is a small hamlet, with a little over 300 inhabitants, situated roughly equidistant from Auxerre and Chablis. The village lies two kilometres from the Yonne River and is surrounded by a large natural amphitheatre of vines. It is one of the most ‘ ‘northern AOCs in France to grow red grapes. As in the neighbouring wine villages of Chitry and Saint-Bris, the wines of Irancy make relatively rare appearances on the export market. While a small amount of rosé is produced, the region produces mainly red wines from Pinot Noir (which must account for 90% of the blend). Also permitted to the maximum of 10% is the Burgundian ‘vinifera non grata’, César. The vineyards, interspersed with cherry orchards, are planted on slopes of Kimmeridgian limestone mixed with red clays. The highly mineralised soils and the northern climate help to give these Pinot’s bright acid and a tangy, chiselled fruit character. From the best growers, the wines typically have more density and definition than the other northerly Pinot AOC’s of Sancerre and Côteaux Champenois. Goisot has a paltry 0.5ha in the lieu-dit of Les Mazelots. At the venerable age of 97 years, the Goisot vines are some of the oldest in France and produce outstanding wines. 2010 was “characterized by an unusually long flowering that lasted about one month. It wasn’t necessarily difficult but it did contribute to having a lot I have said this many of shot berries. We began picking on the 9th of September under perfect times before but it bears conditions and brought in ultra-clean fruit that possessed excellent potential alcohols as well as fine concentration that was aided by the south wind repeating: No one but coming from Spain. Yields were low because of the shatter and shot berries no one delivers more and this was the case among all our grape varieties. To give an example, yields in whites were in the 38 to 43 hl/ha rather than around 70 and the quality for the price pinot was between 20 and 25 hl/ha instead of 35 to 40! Despite the long than Goisot. The quality flowering maturities were actually quite close together among our various parcels and it was necessary to react quickly to avoid having any surmatu - is flat out amazing, par - rité. Phenolic maturities were also very good and we used about 20% whole ticularly given the mod - clusters for the reds. And because the fruit was so clean we didn’t fine the est appellations with whites among those we have already bottled and probably won’t for the re - maining wines either. For me, I think of 2010 as having produced wines that which he works. I highly possess characteristics of both 2008 and 2009, which meansthat they are recommend these wines quite fresh and bright with finesse and concentration. I believe they have ,, everything they need to age well yet offer much pleasure in their youth.” Allen Meadows, Burghound, Iss. 44 Jean-Hugues Goisot quoted by Allen Meadows, Burghound, Iss. 44 BIBENDUM WINE Co | 1300 610 919 9401-750 2010 Goisot Bourgogne Aligote 100% Aligote. Biodynamically farmed. This wine has been one of our favourite value Burgundies for the last few years. Go - isot's old vines - between 50 and 80 years - are planted on the high, cool slopes of a terroir referred to as the Barrémien. It’s an unusual slope of extremely ancient, dense clay, littered with blue-grey fossilised oyster shells, several inches long, across the soil's surface. These limestone fossils combine to slow down and extend the ripening process while conserving acidity. The resultant juice is a picture of Auxerrois earth and purity. There is an intensity seldom seen in wines made from this vari - ety, as well as a transparent sheen of minerals that crackles through the wine. Alongside there is pulpy, pure orchard fruit laced with delicate lime flavouring. If there is a better value white Burgundy going around, please feel free to share!. "A fresh, spicy and exuberant nose that leads to nicely rich and vibrant flavors that possess fine mid-palate density as well as a lovely mineral component on the tangy and racy finish. This is very good for a “humble” Aligoté." (86-88)/2013+ 9407-750 2010 Goisot St-Bris Exogyra Virgula 100% Sauvignon Blanc. St Bris is the only appellation for Sauvignon Blanc or Sauvignon Gris in Burgundy and this is certainly the benchmark producer. In the chalky soils of the Chablis/Yonne area, Sauvignon produces something altogether different to the nearby ap - pellations of Pouilly and Sancerre. Exogyra Virgula is the name for a comma shaped, fos - silised oyster that is so abundant in the soil in this part of the world. This looks fabulous, dripping with limey, spicy, sappy notes. You can imagine just how good a Sauvignon needs to be if it is to receive a review like the one below, from a world renowned Burgundy critic. Enjoy. “ A classic sauvignon blanc nose of cat pee and lemon peel leads to very fresh and en - ergetic flavors that possess really lovely detail as well as fine complexity on the persistent finish. I also like the subtle minerality that arrives on the backend. ” 88/2012+ 9408-750 2010 Goisot St-Bris Moury 100% Sauvignon Blanc. From 1.3 ha on Barrois limestone (a Portlandian era limestone with large amounts of pebbles and silty clays). Much more opulent and textural than the Exogyra Guilham Goisot in the Fié Gris parcel Virgula, yet with air this becomes more and more mineral.

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