n n NOTA BENE n n

v o l . 25 n o. 2 News from the Harvard Department of the Classics academic year 2019-2020

l NOTES FROM THE CHAIR By Kathleen Coleman

am writing three days into the resumption of classes tenure-track search in Classical Archaeology that resulted in after the spring break that marked the transition of the appointment of Meg Andrews (PhD Penn 2015), who Isociety from BC (Before COVID-19) to DC (During is an expert on the Subura in Rome and will join us this COVID-19). We look forward to AC (After COVID-19), coming year. We were able to say goodbye to our graduating even though we don’t know when that will be. In the seniors (fourteen of them!) at our customary celebration meantime, our Classics community has shown the for the submission of senior theses on the last day of term resilience and adaptability that is only to be expected before spring break. It was an especially poignant occasion from scholars and students of a far-off society, radically because, as was then suspected and has now been confirmed, different from our own, which experienced upheavals, there will be no Commencement this year. Harvard without hardship, and suffering that most of us, so far, have never Commencement . . . ! undergone. Knowing that those cataclysmic events But the eternal verities remain, and with them the yielded survivors, and that some transcendent works of art, Department of the Classics. Inside this edition you can read literature, and philosophy were born of those experiences, detailed accounts of what individual students and faculty equips us to step into the unknown, alert and resolute, taking have been up to. We hope that these descriptions will make comfort from our friends and associates whom we have the you nostalgic for Boylston Hall and that you will come back privilege of seeing every day, thanks to modern technology, to visit us when it is safe to do so, in the happy era AC to even if we cannot sit beside them and share common space which we all so keenly look forward. m with them in all the ways that, until now, we have taken for granted. v CONTENTS v Our Department has flourished this year: we welcomed Rachel Love (PhD Yale 2019) to our ranks as an Assistant Notes from the Chair 1 Professor, Natasha Bershadsky (PhD Chicago 2013) as a Faculty News 2 part-time Lecturer, Harry Morgan (DPhil Oxford 2018) Poem of Walter 4 as a Harvard College Fellow in Ancient History, and Lisa Clark as Publications Designer. In September we likewise GENED 1131: Loss 8 welcomed a cohort of seven G-1 graduate students New Graduate Students 10 representing five of our seven PhD programs (Ancient Student Travel 13 History, Byzantine Greek, Classical Philology, Medieval designed by lisa kyle clark Latin, and Modern Greek). In the fall we conducted a

1 FACULTY NEWS FACULTY NEWS

Dimiter Angelov’s new book The Byzantine Hellene: The mentary on the De interpretatione of Aristotle. His collab- Finally, Gojko Barjamovic (NELC), Giovanni Bazzana Gregory Nagy continues his weekly pattern of alternat- Life of Theodore Laskaris and Byzantium in the Thirteenth Cen- orator, Katerina Ierodiakonou, will translate the text into (Divinity School), and I have launched a new universi- ing between the Center for Hellenic Studies in Washing- tury (Cambridge University Press) appeared in July 2019. English, and the volume is scheduled to be published in ty initiative in Ancient Studies, to bring together faculty ton (where he is currently the faculty director) and teaching The book takes advantage of an exceptional body of auto- the De Gruyter series Commentaria in Aristotelem Graeca et and graduate students from across Harvard who work on at the Harvard campus in Cambridge. A paperback second biographical sources and reconstructs the experiences and Byzantina. m any aspect of the ancient world. Alongside a new website edition of his book, The Ancient Greek Hero in 24 Hours, opinions of the reforming ruler, original philosopher, and (https://ancientstudies.harvard.edu) and a weekly calendar has just been published by the Belknap imprint of Harvard social commentator Theodore II Laskaris (1221/22-1258). of events (to sign up, go to https://lists.fas.harvard.edu/ University Press. Also, February 14, 2020 marks the fifth an- It opens a new vista onto relations between the medieval David Elmer mailman/listinfo/ancientstudies), we have hosted two An- niversary of his publishing weekly essays in Classical Inquiries East and West, as they were seen by a key contemporary Last year I edited a new, third edition of Albert Lord’s The cient Studies Visitors – Wouter Henkelman (École Pratique (https://classical-inquiries.chs.harvard.edu) without having political actor. The Byzantine Hellene represents the first at- Singer of Tales, designed and co-directed a new study abroad des Hautes Études, Paris) speaking on Achaemenid-Greek missed a single week during the past five years. In the spring tempt at a full biography of an individual from the Byzan- program in Croatia, and published my first issue as the new encounters and Annette Yoshiko Reed (NYU) on angels, of 2020, he is receiving his third honorary doctorate from tine Middle Ages: a mixture of a personal biography, a ruler’s editor of the journal Oral Tradition. Lectures delivered at the demons, and Hellenistic cultural politics. m a Greek university (the University of Crete in Rethymno; biography, and intellectual biography. An unsettled young Harvard Certamen in March and in Wrocław, Poland, in the first two awards, both in the year 2009, were from the man from a Byzantine royal family established in Anato- December allowed me to explore the operation of “narra- University of Patras and the Aristotle University of Thessa- lian exile after the fall of Constantinople to the Western tive desire” and collective memory in the Odyssey; a larger Ivy Livingston loniki). m crusaders in 1204, Laskaris struggled for survival against an research project on the Odyssey may be in the offing. In the I have been working on “Hedera,” a web application de- entrenched aristocracy, recorded his thoughts and feelings meantime, I am looking forward to a sabbatical next year, signed to enable language learners to develop reading flu- in letters written in a particular literary style, wrote original during which I hope to complete a commentary on Iliad This year, Charles M. Stang taught “Early Christian ency by applying the results of research on second language philosophy critical of scholasticism in the West, and had a Books 5–8. m Thought 1: the Greek Tradition,” a new freshman seminar acquisition, results which suggest that in order to learn new political vision of Hellenism unique before the modern era. on “Gnosticism and Film,” and “Advanced Syriac.” He re- language items through reading, learners should already In the fall semester of 2019 Professor Angelov taught a cently saw the publication of two articles: “The Doubled know at least 90% of the words in a text. new Gen Ed class, The Crusades and the Making of East and Paul Kosmin Self and the Worship of the Gods,” in Maren R. Niehoff and Using Hedera, a teacher or learner can compare any West, which he will be offering again in the fall semester The highlight of the academic year was, as ever, teaching. Joshua Levinson (eds), Constructions of the Self in the Roman text against a list of known words to receive a readability of 2021. m In addition to my regular undergraduate survey of Greek Empire (Mohr Siebeck, 2020), pp. 149-168; and “In my end percentage. Since word knowledge is gained incremental- history (97a), Susanne Ebbinghaus and I taught a new is my beginning,” in a special symposium on John Behr’s ly, learners rank each word on a 5-point scale. When they undergraduate-graduate seminar on the history and archae- John the Theologian & his Paschal Gospel, in Pro Ecclesia: A Jour- In fall 2019, Kathleen Coleman published two brief ar- read, Hedera displays a glossary of only those words which ology of the Achaemenid empire, and Emma Dench and nal of Catholic and Evangelical Theology 29:2 (April 2020). ticles, “The spelling of MELLIORA,” an appendix to the ranked at the lowest two points. m I a new graduate seminar on Macedonia, from the Bronze m excavation report for the 2017 season at Gerace in central Age to Late Antiquity. Sicily by Roger Wilson (UBC) in Mouseion 9.2, and “My- In terms of research, I have been working on my new Richard Tarrant thologizing death: Silvae and sarcophagi” in Flesheaters, the book project, provisionally titled “The Ancient Shore,” and Harry Morgan My current research is centered on Horace. A book on the proceedings of a conference on sarcophagi held at Berke- have delivered a number of related papers on the archae- My main research project at the moment is my book, pro- Odes for the Oxford Approaches series is in the final stages of ley and edited by Christopher Hallett. She also taught a ology and history of the Hellenistic Red Sea and Indian visionally entitled Music, Politics and Society in Ancient Rome, production and should appear in late spring or early summer. new course in the Program in General Education, GENED Ocean. Two co-edited volumes on the second-century which I hope to publish with Cambridge University Press I have begun work on a new critical edition of all of Horace 1131 “Loss,” which she has written about in detail on BCE southern Levant have now been completed – “The in the not-too-distant future. I have also written an article for the OCT series. I do not dare to venture an estimate of pages 8–9 of this issue. m Maccabean Moment,” a comparative study of indigenous about the emperor Nero’s association with the water-organ its completion date; I only hope that it will be before my resistance movements in the mid–late Hellenistic world, which, if all goes according to plan, will be published later demise. I have also contributed several chapters to the Ox- John Duffy continues to chair the Committee of Senior and “The Period of the Middle Maccabees: From the Death this year. In January, I gave a talk at the SCS conference in ford Handbook of Greek and Latin Textual Criticism, which has Fellows in Byzantine Studies at Dumbarton Oaks, where of Judas through the Reign of John Hyrcanus (ca.160-104 Washington, D.C., on the dramatic genre known as fabula been long in progress and which may appear in 2021. m he also serves on the Editorial Board. BCE),”which unites new studies of Second Temple politics togata and its relationship with pantomime. My teaching His new edition and translation of seven homilies of and culture with discussions of newly emerging archaeo- this year has been excitingly diverse: in the Fall, I taught a Sophronios of Jerusalem will appear later this year in the logical evidence for Hasmonean expansion from Jerusalem, new course on ‘Ancient Slavery’; this Spring, I am teaching Richard Thomas has been working on various articles and Dumbarton Oaks Medieval Library series. Currently he is the Galilee, the coastal plain and Shephelah, and the West ‘An Introduction to the Roman World’ and a Latin course reviews, some out or in production, some awaiting the ver- preparing the first critical edition of Michael Psellos’ com- Bank. on Tacitus’ Annals. m dicts of judges: “Catullan Ambiguity”; “Catullan Intertextu-

• 2 • • 3 • FACULTY NEWS the Waltharius. The title refers to the protagonist, who is conventionally called Walter of Aquitaine in English. Since the nineteenth century, much energy has gone into debates ality”; “Viktor Pöschl’s Virgil and Fascist Aesthetics”; “The England (CANE), he was supposed to give a paper on the over the authorship and date (ninth- or tenth-century) of Hexameters of Horace’s Satires and Epistles”; the Tacitus En- function of Etna in Claudian’s De Raptu Proserpinae, and in this composition. The only entire early Germanic epic of cyclopedia entry on “Ethnography”; “Afterword on Window May 2020 at the North American Patristics Society (NAPS) any length apart from the Old English Beowulf, these 1456 Reference” in the volume Imitative Series and Clusters he was due to speak about Avitus of Vienne’s description of lines have commanded outsize importance within the spe- from Classical to Early Modern Literature; “Bob Dylan and Adam and Eve in Paradise. Augustine of Hippo continues to cialization of Medieval Latin studies. The text triangulates the Art of the Citharode”; and a review of D. Quint, Virgil’s be a presence in his research and teaching. m virtuosically among the Roman literary tradition of Virgil Double Cross: Design and Meaning in the Aeneid. and others through the Christian poets of late antiquity He has lectured on classical and Dylan subjects in various (and beyond), Germanic heroes of oral literature and leg- places and has enjoyed his thesis tutorials with four of our Naomi Weiss has enjoyed being back at Harvard after a end, and the spirituality of medieval Christianity. terrific seniors, a number of impressive dissertation advisees productive year of research leave in the other Cambridge. One half of the book-to-be relates to the poem itself, and other one-on-one independent studies, along with this In the summer she was promoted to Associate Professor and which recounts, at a remove of roughly a half millenni- year’s regular courses, a great graduate seminar on Intertextu- then appointed the Gardner Cowles Associate Professor of um, vicissitudes connected with great migrations of Ger- ality and Reception, and two memorable 100-level courses the Humanities. In the fall semester, she taught a new Fresh- manic and other peoples that contributed to the transition on Horace, Satires and Epistles, and the second half of the man Seminar, “Ancient Greek Tragedy for the 21st Centu- from Roman antiquity to the early Middle Ages (“de- Aeneid. m ry,” as well as an undergraduate course on constructions of cline and fall”) and later to the formation of modern na- gender and sexuality in antiquity. This spring she is excited tion-states. Think migration, exile, ethnic tension, and the to offer a new graduate seminar on Aeschylus. Her co-edit- clash of civilizations: sound familiar? In 2019–2020, Adam Trettel has embarked on a new re- ed volume, Genre in Archaic and Classical Greek Poetry: Theories The Waltharius sets a global stage, situating Europe along- search project on late antique poetry. In December 2019, and Models (Brill), finally came out in the fall, as did a couple side Asia and Africa. Thereafter it tracks Attila and his Huns he gave a lecture for MIT’s Ancient and Medieval Studies of articles on Greek tragedy. She is currently putting the [FIGURE 1] as they sweep into western Europe, overcom- Colloquium on the topic of flowers in Venantius Fortunatus. finishing touches to another co-edited volume, Music and ing three Germanic peoples. The invaders vanquish first the Franks, then the Burgundians, and finally the Aquitainians Two further speaking engagements have unfortunately been Memory in the Ancient Greek and Roman Worlds (Cambridge 1. Prince Valiant battles the Huns. Harold R. Foster, Prince Valiant Fights postponed as a result of the current pandemic: in March 2020 University Press), and working on a new book about the Attila the Hun (New York: Hastings House, 1952), cover. (as the narrative calls a tribe more familiar as Visigoths). In at the annual conference of the Classical Association of New aesthetics of theatrical spectatorship in classical Athens. m each case, the “scourge of God” takes plunder prisoners Turning from the past to the future, I aim now to ap- [FIGURE 2] to carry back to the steppes. After many years ply fresh perspectives gained from the last undertaking by pass, the hostages take flight from Hunland. First the producing a two-part study of a single Latin masterpiece from the early Middle Ages and its fate down to today. 2. Walter and Hildegund (as children) taken hostage by Huns. W. Wägner, Epics and Romances of the Middle Ages, trans. M. W. Macdowall, ed. W. S. W. Anson, 2nd ed. POEM OF WALTER To realize this project, my hope is to concentrate upon (London: Swan Sonnenschein, 1884), 209, illus. Hugo Vogel.

The Poem of Walter and the Creation of Medieval Latin

or more than a decade administration has coopted Dante and Islam). Lastly, I focused mind and heart on much of my time, but the remainder I have devot- investigating the life and afterlife of a single early thir- Fed to three main pursuits. One has been what was teenth-century French poem. Exploring it in its own long labeled the classical tradition but has evolved gradual- right as well as in its subsequent reception from the ly into the more complex notion of classical reception. In 1870s until the present day resulted in the six-volume this regard I trained my sights especially upon Virgil (The The Juggler of Notre Dame and the Medievalizing of Moder- Virgil Encyclopedia). In another line of inquiry, I sought to nity. The last-mentioned project afforded an opportunity showcase connections of medieval literature, as embodied to achieve in publication the same integration of prose in one of its premier vernacular poets, with cultures outside and images that I sought for many years in large-course western Europe (resulting in Dante and the Greeks and teaching and public lecturing.

• 4 • • 5 • Frank Hagen decamps, then later the Aquitainian Walther The Waltharius’s lifespan begins in the first millennium and vast. At the same time, the short epic cries out for care- and Burgundian Hildegund in tandem. The two last-men- and covers the whole of the second. To enjoy any vigor in ful but creative interdisciplinarity: it must be positioned in tioned, it turns out, were betrothed almost from the cra- the third, its meanings and the uses to which it has been both late antiquity and the early Middle Ages, oral literature dle and still wish to marry. [FIGURE 3] They outwit and put across multiple centuries must be scrutinized and syn- and the classical tradition, and Altgermanistik and Mittellatein. outrun the Huns, but even so Walter is forced to fight a thesized. The poem’s path since the late eighteenth century Even within Germany, “the poem of Walter” has been re- long string of duels. No sooner has he crossed the Rhine has been shaped powerfully by shifts (and wounds) within stricted since World War II in quarantine separate from larg- than the new Frankish ruler Gunther, despite generous of- German culture, first under Kaisers Wilhelm I and II from er culture. It endures mostly at two extremes of the spec- fers of valuables, seeks to strip him of all chattels, including the Franco-Prussian War to the close of World War I, then trum, in children’s books on Germanic myths and legends even his fiancée. Ethnic rivalries among Germanic and oth- in the Weimar Republic’s tense modernism, next through and in literary history. Its liberation from these confines will er peoples spring into sharper focus. The action climaxes Nazism and World War II under Hitler [FIGURE 5], and require applying all the tools that scholarly knowledge can in a battle that leaves Walter, Hagen, and this king, Gun- finally over the long post-War haul to the present. bring to bear, at a juncture when medieval studies—and ther, all maimed—but a brief peroration foretells a hap- With luck, my examination of the Waltharius and its after- especially interpretation of anything early Germanic— py ending for Walther and Hildegund as king and queen. math will culminate in a two-tome book. Half will plumb has become torn between the desire to take advantage of Thematically, the plot shows early Germanic culture the poem from its gestation through the Middle Ages, half mass-culture interest evident in such phenomena as The deeply defective in its reliance upon an economy based on its reception from 1780 down to the here and now. In the Game of Thrones and the fear of playing somehow into the pillage and booty: Attila exacts tribute, Walter regains it, and process I would love to give this underappreciated show- distorted Germanophilia of white supremacists and racist Gunther wants it. Golden arm rings are what a tribal leader piece traction for continued life. I regard solidifying the nationalists. Early Germanic, more than previously, has an is expected to offer his bravest warriors, while they are sup- position of the poem in the twenty-first-century human- -ic factor that must be confronted. posed to fight to the death to vanquish enemies and protect ities as an essential component in the continued vitality and The Waltharius is no exception. In the first half of the him. The lust for loot exposes within the system the further even existence of my subfield and its foundational disci- twentieth century, inexpensive editions of the original, flaw of competing loyalties: the fidelity felt by one friend to pline, Medieval Latin philology, both of them at once little translations, and adaptations helped to disseminate and another may clash with the fealty owed to a feudal overlord. inculcate knowledge and appreciation of early Germanic culture among German speakers, including those in Ger- man-minority communities outside Germany, Austria, and Switzerland—the German diaspora that had a minor 4. Walter combats Franks, as Hildegund looks on. Stamp promoting children’s role in the Third Reich. Eventually such use of the epic book Waltarilied und andere Sagen by Jacob Grimm, Deutsche Jugendbücherei 23 played into the hands of the Nazis, who not only encour- (Berlin: Hermann Hillger, 1935).Hun (New York: Hastings House, 1952), cover. aged the production of scholarship on it but also produced cheap paperback forms of it for soldiers on active duty. The editio princeps—a fancy way of saying “first edi- For all that, the Waltharius and early Germanic stud- tion”—of the Waltharius from 1780 arose from the same ies cannot be abandoned simply because its scholar- impulses that prompted Romantics to immerse them- ship has been repeatedly misappropriated and -direct- selves in the Nibelungenlied. The Medieval Latin, when ed. After all, this particular Latin poem develops themes co-edited by the legendary Jacob Grimm in 1838, of migration and ethnic identity that cry out as urgently achieved succès d’estime, but only or at least primarily and relevantly as ever in its more than fifteen-hundred- among Latinists. [FIGURE 4] The writer Joseph Victor year gestation and transmission. von Scheffel earned it broader prominence. All but for- The Waltharius first grabbed me nearly fifty years ago. gotten nowadays, this writer possessed for seventy-five Since then, I have returned to it over and over again. Along years stature among German speakers comparable to Sir the way, I have amassed holdings (real and virtual) of digital Walter Scott’s in the English-speaking world or Victor files of manuscripts, PDFs of scholarship, and paper copies Hugo’s (Notre Dame) in the Francophone. Scheffel’s tour of hard-to-find books. More important, I have accumu- de force was Ekkehard, a historical novel set in the ear- lated ideas and notes that have grown through recurrent ly tenth century in the St. Gall monastery. A runaway bouts of teaching, researching, and writing. Finishing the bestseller, this tearjerker incorporated a translation of projected volumes rates among my highest personal goals the Latin. The novel’s success may have deterred others for the coming years. m 5. Walter combats Franks, as Hildegund looks on. Stamp promoting children’s book 3. Walter and Hildegund (as adults) escape from Hunland. J. V. von Scheffel, Das from adapting the medieval poem in ways that could Waltarilied und andere Sagen by Jacob Grimm, Deutsche Jugendbücherei 23 (Berlin: Waltarilied, woodcuts by A. Cloß (Stuttgard: Adolf Bonz, 1874), plate facing p. 16. have kept it truly alive in twentieth-century mass culture. Hermann Hillger, 1935). Hun (New York: Hastings House, 1952), cover. Jan Ziolkowski

• 6 • • 7 • GENED 1131: LOSS not a single Federalist casualty is commemorated—and then she grew up, while the death of her husband and children went straight to Memorial Church, where the names of the meant that the essence of “home” in their house in London alumni who died representing the US in the two World was gone beyond recall. Still Alice is a novel by a neuroscientist, Wars are accompanied by a (short) list of alumni who fought Lisa Genova, about a Harvard professor who is stricken by GENED 1131: Loss for Germany in both those conflicts. early-onset Alzheimer’s Disease in her fifties. Set right here The students also walked round Mount Auburn Cemetery in Cambridge, it had special resonance for me, as I hope it on a glorious October afternoon—three afternoons, in did, too, for the students. Finally, Late Migrations, by Margaret hree years ago, as many of you know, Harvard a psychologist, a photographer, a violinist, and a singer. Most fact, since I discovered that it is impossible for 34 Harvard Reinkl, combines meditations on the natural world with decided to reform the Program in General of them were my age or older, and I wondered whether undergraduates to be free on the same weekend—to an account of the life of the author’s late mother. I was first TEducation. Under the old scheme, I used to offer their presence would disturb the undergraduates, but in fact experience loss tempered by nature. We had a guest lecture struck by Margaret Reinkl’s extraordinarily sensitive writing “Roman Games.” For the new program, we were asked to the students welcomed the perspective that older people are on the Requiem Mass by Dr Stuart Forster, Director of in her occasional op ed columns for The New York Times. The come up with topics that would prepare students to tackle able to bring to a topic like loss. Plus, the auditors were very Music and Organist at Christ Church Cambridge, for which epigraph on my syllabus is from her book: “The shadow side a problem that they would face in their lives. I suppose I discreet and, in fact, had to be coaxed into volunteering a the students listened in advance to the Duruflé Requiem in of love is always loss, and grief is only love’s own twin.” could have re-tooled Roman Games into a course about point of view. a recording of the service for All Saints Sunday at Christ From the Quabbin Reservoir in Central Mass, flooded institutionalized violence, but instead I decided to teach a I lectured twice a week for 75 minutes (the statutory Church three years ago. And the curators in the Harvard Art in 1938 to create a water-source for Boston and drowning course about “Loss.” I chose this topic because loss is both lecture-period in the new timetable), and three TFs ran the Museums helped me to put together a display in the Study the site of four towns in the process, to the Vietnam Veterans inevitable and unmanageable. Since the ancient world is weekly sections for an hour each. Altogether we were a team Gallery of ten items relating to aspects of loss, from an olpe Memorial in Washington, DC, I was forced out of my replete with examples, I grounded many of the lectures in of 45 people tackling a very, very difficult subject. Lecture of the sixth century BC illustrating Aeneas fleeing Troy with comfort zone to find ways to engage the students in the classical antiquity, but beyond that I ranged far and wide in 5, which was about animals’ experience of loss (relying on his father on his back to a necklace made by a Palestinian painful questions associated with loss and how to survive time and space. Loss, after all, is fundamental to the human authorities from Homer and anonymous tombstones for refugee, Mona Hatoum, out of her own hair, a profoundly it. We watched interviews with Syrian refugees; we studied condition, regardless of period or location. Roman pets to the animal psychologists, Barbara King and visceral expression of displacement and homesickness. telegrams sent to Jackie Kennedy by famous people after We are now encouraged to make “trailers” for our courses, Frans de Waal), was the first occasion on which I broke down. I had four goals for the course: to prepare the students to the assassination of JFK; we thought about the sonnet as so in the summer at the Bok Center I was filmed enthusing It was Homer’s fault: I read the students Stephen Mitchell’s face their own losses, insofar as that is possible; to cultivate a form capable of expressing complex emotions within a about “Loss” for more than an hour (in rather vague terms, translation of the scene in the Odyssey describing Odysseus’ empathy; to give them a sense of the wealth of art, literature, strictly controlled structure; we thought about the loss since I hadn’t yet taught it), and then I had to grasp the aged dog, Argos, now relegated to the dung-heap outside music, and architecture, born of loss, to which they can turn; of the “disappeared” by way of the attempt by the South fundamentals of video editing in order to isolate discrete the gates of the palace on Ithaca, which ends: “And just then and to inculcate the wisdom of carpe diem, “harvest the day.” African Truth and Reconciliation Commission to confront segments that could add up to three 3-minute clips. This death came and darkened the eyes of Argos, / who had seen In addition to bereavement, we looked at loss of home, exile, the greatest tragedies of apartheid (for which, rather than process involved identifying start and stop times on a tape Odysseus again after twenty years”; the pathos was too much amputation, and several types of “ambiguous loss”: people a bureaucratic report, I chose to give the students poetry down to fractions of a second, which—as I discovered— for me. But I think it was liberating for the students to see missing in action, the “disappeared,” and the victims of brain- about the TRC process by the South African poet, Ingrid demands wits quicker than mine. In the end, my performance me in tears, since it gave them license to show emotion, too. altering accidents or diseases. At the end of the course, 39 of de Kok); and amidst all of these topics and many others, we on screen was evidently less seductive than I had hoped, As I said to them, rather moistly, “This is so, so hard. We are us contributed an item of our own choice to a collection of also encountered icons from classical antiquity, such as the since only 34 students registered for the course, but that all working on it together, and sometimes it is going to hurt.” resources for people suffering from loss, each duly annotated moving farewell between Hector and Andromache, which meant that I was able teach interactively, get to know each Active learning is a buzzword, but even if it weren’t, I would by the person who selected it. This miscellany, ranging from we traced from the Iliad to Schubert and beyond, or the student personally, and read all the final papers in the class, have been remiss not to take advantage of the wealth of local Spanish folksongs to a shark preserved in formaldehyde, is poignant cenotaph of M. Caelius of Bologna, centurion of which added up to a very rich experience for me; the course resources. After I had lectured about building a memorial, available for your perusal on Scalar: https://scalar.fas.harvard. the eighteenth legion, who fell in the battle of the Teutoburg evaluations showed that the students derived some benefit the students visited the Memorial Room in Widener edu/resources-for-loss/index. Forest in AD 9. from our explorations, too (albeit they sometimes expressed Library, to see how the tragedy of the Titanic precipitated I prescribed The Year of Magical Thinking by Joan Didion The course only got off the ground because the Gen Ed their approval rather equivocally, e.g., “This course was a the construction of one of the world’s most magnificent and A Grief Observed by C. S. Lewis, and bookended the Office offered me a research assistant in the summer, which little rough around the edges”). libraries, built by Mrs. Widener in memory of her son, sections with a discussion of each; this succeeded in creating enabled me to recruit Michael Konieczny, newly graduated The presence of the mature students familiar to me in Harry (Harvard Class of 1907), himself a bibliophile and an arc for the course. I had read both of those books many with his PhD, to collect material in disparate media across my past lives at the University of Cape Town and Trinity a victim of the disaster. They visited the Peabody Museum years ago, but one of the great gifts of the course for me was the entire range of the syllabus. And the team of TFs— College Dublin is entirely unknown at Harvard, where to look at native American grave goods, think about the that it got me reading widely among contemporary works. Hannelore Segers, Steve Shennan, and Paul Johnston (Head the undergraduates are all in their late teens or early potential loss of an entire culture, and debate the pros and I will mention just three. Wave by Sonali Deraniyagala is a TF)—was unfailingly committed and supportive. GENED twenties. But I acquired seven faithful auditors from cons of repatriating these objects to the modern descendants memoir by a Singhalese woman who lost her entire family 1131 was the most profound teaching experience I have the wider Cambridge community who came to almost of the deceased. They also stood in the transept of Memorial in the tsunami in Sri Lanka in 2004. Her story interweaves ever had. I will do it again. m every class; one even turned up for the midterm exam by Hall, where the plaques recording the names of the Harvard tragic bereavement with loss of home, since the death of her mistake. They comprised a rabbi, a doctor, a retired librarian, casualties in the Civil War reflect only the Unionist cause— parents meant the loss of the house in Colombo in which Kathleen Coleman

• 8 • • 9 • NEW GRADUATE STUDENTS NEW GRADUATE STUDENTS

in all subjects. Her senior thesis After a childhood spent in Melbourne Connor North grew up in Atlanta, Philip Wilson grew up in Wilm- examines poetics in Ovid’s Amores, and Singapore, Astrid Khoo received Georgia before heading off to Saint ington, North Carolina (the film paying close attention to the notion her BA (Hons) in Classics from King’s Paul, Minnesota to attend Macalester location of David Lynch’s Blue Velvet, of naiveté. At Harvard, she is learning College London, along with the 2019 College, where he received his BA a point of considerable regional pride about the poetics and aesthetics of the Jelf Medal and Handford Classical Prize. in Classical Languages. His work at for Philip). He attended UNC Chapel Greco-Roman world in general and She is fascinated by questions rather Macalester focused on the interplay Hill, where he studied Greek and Latin their reception in modern European than specific time periods or texts, and, of Roman administration and the as well as medieval history, completing philosophy. Besides her academic as a fledgling ancient historian, hopes to institutional histories of Greek cities, a senior thesis on theories of education interests, she pursues film photography, develop her thoughts not only on the and culminated in a thesis entitled in Petronius’ Satyricon. Proximity to reads modern poetry, and enjoys the gap between historical narrative and “Views of Rome in Athenian In- Duke enabled him to take a number Boston Symphony Orchestra. m lived reality, but also on inertia versus scriptions.” After Macalester, he spent of graduate seminars with Fredric momentum: what exactly “tips the two wonderful years in Colorado, Jameson, with whom he nourished balance” and drives people to pursue where he received his MA in Greek interests in German Idealism and change instead of preserving the status from the University of Colorado at Marxism. He was awarded the Lionel Greta Galeotti grew up in Milan quo? In search of these answers she Boulder and concentrated on his Pearson Fellowship by the Society and Venice. In 2017, she received her has published on ancient tattooing as favorite topics, Polybius and Greek for Classical Studies in 2018, thanks BA in Classical Literature from Ca’ well as Greek and Latin epic, and spent inscriptions. At Harvard he will Andrew Ntapalis is a native of New to which he spent the year pursuing Foscari University in Venice, after a summer at the Thesaurus Linguae continue in these areas and is also Hampshire. He graduated summa cum an MSt at Corpus Christi College, having spent her last year as an Erasmus Latinae learning about the intricate excited to pursue other interests laude from the University of New Oxford, reading Hellenistic poetry visiting student at University College relationship between language and ranging from the development of Hampshire, earning his BA in 2014 with Jane Lightfoot and ancient London, Institute of Archaeology. meaning (2019, generously funded by a early Byzantine historiography to the with a dual major in History and historiography with Rhiannon Ash In 2019, she received her MPhil in Segal Grant). When she is not working Roman historical fragments. Outside Modern Greek, and then his MA in and Guy Westwood. His interests General Linguistics and Comparative on her projects, she boxes, runs, and of Classics he enjoys running, rock History in 2016. There, he was also now cluster around topics that cross Philology from the University of swims. Her hobbies range from climbing, and science fiction.m inducted into the Phi Beta Kappa and (and frustrate) chronological divides Oxford, where she focused on Ancient collecting antiquarian books, a passion Phi Alpha Theta Honor Societies. from Alexandria to Modernity, most Greek and Sanskrit. Her main interest which she shares with her friends at the of which are found in medieval Latin today is in Ancient Greek dialects, their Grolier Club, to exploring the world: He went on to teach Modern Greek sources. These include prophecy, classification, and the sociolinguistic John Kee was born and raised in her dream voyage is an expedition to at the University of New Hampshire the uses of literacy, court cultures, contexts of their use in inscriptions Dallas, Texas, and received his BA in Antarctica. m for two years as an adjunct faculty theories of fiction, and the formation and literary texts, alongside Greek Classical Languages and Literatures member in the Department of of literary canons. m poetry, Vedic Sanskrit, and historical and Philosophy from Dartmouth Classics, Humanities and Italian linguistics. m College. Following graduation he Studies. Today his research interests moved to Budapest, where after he had include: modern Greek history and spent several years teaching English literature; nineteenth- and twentieth- his curiosity about the medieval century Greek poetry (especially transformations of the ancient Greek Palamas, Ritsos and Elytis); Greek tradition led him to an MA at Central Revolutionary literature; the Greek European University. His research there demotic songs and folklore; Orthodox centered on the response of Byzantine Christian hagiography; intertextuality; literary and intellectual culture to the reception; and translation. He currently changing geography of the empire, serves as a graduate student coordinator with a particular focus on the eleventh for the Mahindra Humanities Center and twelfth centuries. He looks forward seminars in Modern Greek Literature to pursuing those interests at Harvard, and Culture at Harvard. m. as well as deepening his understanding In 2019, Vivian Yiie Jin completed of Byzantium’s appropriation of the a BA in Philosophy and Classics at classics and of medieval Greek book Cornell University, with distinction culture more generally. m

• 10 • • 11 • STUDENT TRAVEL 2019-2020 STUDENT TRAVEL

Egypt (and Paris) by Lydia Cawley (’20) From Campania to Magna Graecia by Christopher Cochran (G5)

ade possible by a grant from the his last summer I used a grant from the MCharles P. Segal Memorial Student TCharles P. Segal Memorial Student Travel and Research Fund, my trip to Travel and Research Fund to travel to Egypt this summer was nothing short of an the museums and archaeological sites adventure. I traveled to Cairo to immerse of Magna Graecia in southern Italy. My myself in the Arabic language, 100+-degree own research focuses on Greek and Latin heat, and the National Library and Archives. novels, a genre which inherently crosses My mission was to collect primary source the cultural boundaries of Greece and material for my undergraduate senior thesis Rome (and beyond). I was very excited research, which sets out to examine the not just to see the places in which some of reception of classical stories in 20th- and my beloved novels, especially the Satyrica 21st-century Arabic plays. Most of the of Petronius, are set, but also to study a Eating dinner next to the walls of plays I wanted to study are not available in material culture at the center of Greek Paestum. Widener, or anywhere in the States. None and Roman cultural exchange. My plan of the plays I am looking at have ever been was both simple and ambitious: start in I was not prepared for the underground Diver in the archaeological museum of translated into English. So, I had to go all the Pozzuoli and Baia (because that’s where excavations of the Rione Terra with their Paestum. The scene is a symposium. Six way to Egypt to get them. we first meet Encolpius and Giton in the intricate cistern systems, and the fabulous couches are depicted, four of them occupied This trip was my first foray into Egyptian The Ahmed Shawki Satyrica), then drive to Paestum, then from Augusteum, now the city’s cathedral, by romantic couples. Three of these couples archives, and it went about as smoothly Historical House and Paestum to Reggio Calabria, then travel whose walls were revealed by a fire in 1964. clearly fit the traditional Greek pederastic Museum. as my more senior and knowledgeable along the south coast of Calabria and Between the prominence and centrality of model: one man is clearly older, with a colleagues in the Department would who yell your name “Price is Right”-style (it did open eventually!), the Bibliotheca Basilicata as far as Metaponto, stopping at the Augusteum within Pozzuoli, and the beard and clear musculature, and the other expect. The Ahmed Shawki Museum, one when they are ready. I have never met at Alexandria, the Museum of Egyptian every ancient site along the way. high number of inscriptions preserved in man is clearly younger, with no beard and of my main destinations, did not have a a librarian who yelled before, much less in Antiquities, and the Cairo Opera House. Many of the museum collections and the archaeological museum of Baia that less well-defined features. One couple, website; it was closed without explanation the library itself! From tours of these important sites, I archaeological sites in this part of Italy are reference the seviri Augustales, I can’t help however, doesn’t fit this model. In this the first day I went to visit. Unperturbed, After many trips between the Ministry learned more about the political and not well published. Even finding accurate but wonder whether Trimalchio’s pride in couple, both partners are bearded, although I pushed on to the National Library, of Culture and the Director of the Library cultural milieu that influenced writers opening hours can be difficult. Every his status as an Augustalis is more than just one man’s beard is not as full as the other’s. where I received a temporary library for permissions and exceptions (in Egypt, like Ahmed Shawki, Tawfiq al-Hakim, day brought new surprises. For example, an expression of comic pretentiousness. More interestingly, unlike the other couples, card in exchange for my driver’s license. rules are at once inflexible and negotiable, and Lenin El-Ramly. From Cairo, I jetted I knew beforehand about the amazing The object that captivated me the most this couple is less self-absorbed. The two I was pleasantly surprised by the reading depending on who you ask and when over to Paris, where these writers were amphitheater and macellum in Pozzuoli. was the fantastic fresco on the Tomb of the men are facing in opposite directions. Why? room’s cleanliness and size, and only you ask them), I was granted access to the first inspired to turn to classical sources. What can we learn from mildly tripped up by searching their online cigarette-smoke-filled photocopying room There I did more digging on the tradition this image about the catalogue entirely in Arabic. The Library of the National Archives (which I’m sure is of classical reception in Arabic plays, culture of same-sex desire has an amusing system in which you can great for the books!). I now have precious visiting L’Institut du Monde Arabe and in Greek antiquity? This turn in only three slips for books at a time, copies of several Egyptian plays, ready to countless museums and bookstores. image has been stuck in which are fetched for you by librarians be studied and translated for my thesis this I am so grateful to the Segal Fund my head since July, and year and for years down the line. Thanks and the Department for this opportunity— only seems to raise more to the Segal fund’s generosity, I have this my summer research trip was the highlight questions than it answers. personal archive, which I plan to use as a of my year. I had the chance to practice I am beginning to suspect springboard for my postgraduate research. my French and Arabic, and I now better that I might have to I supplemented my archive-searching understand the socio-political contexts that return to the Tomb of the with visits to the Ahmed Shawki Museum spur modern-day Arab writers to adapt Diver in my next project Alexandrina, or modern-day Library classical sources. Above all, I learned a lot after my dissertation. m about myself through solo travel, and I now have a more refined view of my scholarly Fresco from the Tomb of the Beside a bust of Tawfiq al-Hakim at the Bibliotheca Diver. Alexandrina. interests going forward. m

• 12 • • 13 • STUDENT TRAVEL STUDENT TRAVEL

St. Petersburg (and Moscow) by Rebecca Deitsch (G3) Greece in January and Sardis in Summer by Sarah Eisen (G3)

ast summer, thanks to a grant from the see Berlioz’s Les Troyens at the Marinsky UNESCO world heritage site of Meteora. LCharles P. Segal Memorial Student Theater. I enjoyed the retelling of Greek We also spent one week in Northern Travel and Research Fund, I had the and Roman myth, and I learned the Greece, based in Thessaloniki, and we opportunity to spend a month in St. Peters- Russian word for “cuneiform” when traveled to sites that included Mount burg at Exlinguo Russian Immersion the lady sitting next to me started a Olympus and the sanctuary of Dion, School. Slavic languages are a passion of conversation about whether the Trojans the royal Macedonian tombs at Vergina, mine, and one of my goals is to study the had spoken Hittite. (This proves my point and the Macedonian capital of Pella. reception of Classics in Polish and Russian that Russians know a surprising amount This trip constituted the first time I had literature. Last summer’s Russian sojourn about the ancient world!) been in northern Greece, and the visit to improved my language skills dramatically, In addition to exploring St. Petersburg, the archaeological museums at Pella and for I spent at least four hours a day in class I took an overnight train to Moscow to Vergina was a particular highlight. The and I spoke exclusively Russian with my experience a new part of Russia. The Red Vergina museum is built underground, fit search Fund, I was also able to spend the lovely and talkative host family. Square and the Kremlin did not disappoint, into the interior of the burial tumuli. It summer of 2019 excavating at Harvard’s ar- My teachers wove classical topics into my and seeing the mummified body of Lenin parks will come to my mind. I can’t decide was an amazing experience to not only chaeological exploration of Sardis (the cap- grammar and style lessons to great effect. is something that I will never forget. what is more beautiful—the Russian see several artifacts that are unique in their ital of the Lydian Empire), visiting sites in Discussing whether the Parthenon Marbles Closer to St. Petersburg, I visited the language or Russia itself. But either way, preservation, like ornately carved ivory Turkey, and spending some time in Istanbul. should be repatriated while trying to use as palaces of the Tsars at Oranienbaum and I am very grateful for the opportunity beds, gold and purple woven textiles, and I was particularly stuck by how big all the ar- many Russian verbs of motion as possible Tsarskoe Selo and wandered for hours which the Segal grant gave me to study wall painting, but to also see them in a chitecture was all over the country—Sardis was quite an experience, as was writing in the enormous royal parks. Now when Russian in St. Petersburg! m setting close to their original deposition. hosts one of the largest Ionic temples in the Standing in front of Hagia Sophia in Istanbul. an abstract for my conference paper on scholars mention the pleasure gardens of Above: Visiting a Sphinx. The way that this museum was organized world! This was my first time in Turkey (an- Lucan while navigating various registers Persian kings and satraps, these Russian Below: The royal park at Tsarskoe Selo. was incredibly innovative and highly cient Asia Minor), and it was interesting to of written Russian. When I learned how uring January of 2019, I traveled enhanced the viewing experience. see local identity and culture blending with to form nominal possessive adjectives, Dto Greece with Paul Johnston (G4 Thanks to a grant from the Charles P. both Greek and later Roman influence and I also learned that Russians talk about in Classical Philology) and Suzanne Segal Memorial Student Travel and Re- rule. I was able to visit some of the biggest Achilles’ heels, the sword of Damocles, and Paszkowski (G5 in Classical Philosophy) and best-preserved sites in Draconian laws just as much (or as little?) in order to practice modern Greek, visit Turkey, including Ephesus, as Anglophones do. In the end I was forced museums and archaeological sites together, Pergamon, and Aphrodisias. to conclude that seemingly all Russians are and explore regions of Greece that I had Ephesus was a particular- experts on ancient history and culture— never visited before. Visiting Greece with ly awe-inspiring trip, for although I did rock my teacher’s world by my colleagues was particularly valuable, monuments such as the fa- informing her that there were two Senecas because it allowed me to understand sites mous Library of Celsus and and two Catos. from the perspective of other disciplines— the seldom-visited terrace- When I wasn’t buried in irregular verb for example, understanding the philosophical houses, which preserve first- conjugations or trying to predict Russified importance of sites such as Delphi to the rate Roman atrium houses, versions of Greek and Latin names, I reveled ancient world and Greek writers. Even along with their wall paint- in being back in St. Petersburg, one of my though I have been to Athens on previous ings and intricate mosaics favorite cities in the world. For instance, I occasions, this trip afforded many new op- —a second Pompeii of spent a lovely afternoon visiting a pair of portunities, such as being able to enter the sorts! m Egyptian Sphinxes on Vasilyevsky Island Tower of the Winds in the Roman Agora, in the middle of the Neva River. They which was closed on my previous visits. We once sat by a temple to the Pharaoh also rented a car and were able to travel to Amenhotep III near Thebes, but since many sites in Attica and the surrounding 1834 they have guarded the waterfront areas, including Eleusis, Corinth, the temple Above: Library of Celsus at Ephesus, Turkey. of University Embankment. On another of Poseidon at Sounion, Delphi, and their Below: The Temple of Poseidon at memorable day my host sister took me to respective museums, as well as visiting the Sounion, Greece at sunset!

• 14 • • 15 • STUDENT TRAVEL STUDENT TRAVEL

Italy in Two Weeks by Nathaniel Herter (G3) A Month in Paris by Julia Judge (G5)

ast summer, through a generous grant Basilica for a breathtaking view of the city ith the support of the Charles P. This summer was the first time I had In my spare time during the month, I Lfrom the Charles P. Segal Memorial before descending into the papal catacombs WSegal Memorial Student Travel ever visited France, so all the sites and took many opportunities to look beyond Student Travel and Research Fund, I was and exploring the enormous and crowded and Research Fund, I was able to spend museums which the city has to offer were the city’s classical collections and experi- able to spend two magnificent weeks in Ita- Vatican museums, where we competed for one month in Paris during the summer completely new to me. Visiting the ence the history, culture, and urban ly on a tour of archaeological sites and mu- a view of the famous marble Laocoon Group of 2019. The primary purpose of my trip Louvre Museum for the first time was topography of Paris as a whole. Getting to seums while sharpening my Italian language and saw modernist paintings by Matisse. Of was to study the French language. I chose not only important for my work as a know Paris in this way was an incredibly skills. While reviews of my success at the particular note during our time in Rome to allocate most of my funding towards Classicist, but was also the realization important step in my intellectual latter vary, the sheer range of material I was were the Borghese galleries, which house private lessons, instead of an introductory of a lifelong dream. It was an incredible development; for example, by visiting sites able to encounter first-hand was invaluable. some of the most famous works of classical course; daily private lessons allowed me opportunity to see some of the most like the Panthéon I learned more about the In Rome, we stayed in a lovely apartment reception, such as Bernini’s works Apollo and to target my language study to match celebrated works of ancient art in person. reception of Classics and the negotiation of in the Trastevere district: this lively medieval Daphne and The Rape of Proserpina, based on my experience level and learning pace, I also discovered fascinating works and religious monuments during the French suburb “across the Tiber” was within walking Ovid’s Metamorphoses. which made it possible for me to make artifacts which I had never seen before, Revolution, which has specific parallels to distance of many major sites such as theVatican, Our second week began with a train rapid progress. Now, I can easily navigate such as the painted Doric frieze from my dissertation research. the Roman forum and Colosseum, and ride south to Naples, where we stayed in an French scholarship for my dissertation the “Tombe de la Balançoire” in Cyrene. I am so grateful for every day I spent in the Capitoline museums, while containing apartment off Piazza Garibaldi. Exploring research, which had been much more Because the main focus of my teaching Paris this summer. The Segal Fund is an treasures all its own. Particularly wonderful Naples feels like a lifetime’s project, and difficult for me to do in the past. In the and research is Greek and Roman incredible resource that allows students of was the Basilica di Santa Maria in Trastevere, we only were able to see a fraction of what time during the week when I was not religion, it was particularly useful for me the Classics at Harvard to have invaluable one of Rome’s oldest churches, which is a the city had to offer; more than once we studying French, I was able to work on my to visit the rooms that display artifacts experiences abroad and to reach their marvel showing off centuries of building found ourselves lost in medieval alleyways, dissertation research in the Bibliothèque of Roman syncretic religions, such as a full potential as students, teachers, and and rebuilding through a combination of though life in Boston seemed to prepare us national de France. votive statuette of Sarapis-Agathodaimon. scholars. m architectural styles. Retaining its pre-12th- well for the hazards of crossing streets where century foundations and building plan, its traffic laws fall somewhere between polite Left: Terracotta figurine of Sarapis-Agathodaimon, Qasr el-Dawar (Egypt), 1st c. AD. Right: Julia with a mosaic from Daphne (Turkey), 4th c. AD. walls and ceilings are covered in 13th-century, suggestion and oppressive irritations. This Byzantine style frescoes supported by granite week brought day-trips both within the columns with capitals spoliated either from city and without: we woke up early to reach A view from the top of St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome. the nearby baths of Caracalla or from the the nearly-deserted archaeological museum temple of Isis on the Gianicolo. at daybreak, and were able to take in the of southern Italy. We conversed in basic Beyond Trastevere, we climbed the 551 remains of Pompeian wall frescoes and Italian each morning with an exceedingly steps to the peak of the dome of St. Peter’s mosaics on our own. After another early accommodating barista—so polite that he rise we hopped the Circumvesuviana train did not correct his hapless American guests A fountain in the Giardino della Minerva in Salerno. to Pompeii, where we explored the city with who, only on their last day in town, learned a hired guide and wilted under a noonday that one is supposed to order coffee at the high of over 110 degrees Fahrenheit. Later register first, and then approach the bar with we visited Salerno, on the southernmost one’s scontino. Language learning is nothing edge of the Amalfi coast, the hometown of if not a humbling experience. It was he another graduate student, Davide Napoli, who suggested we spend our last day in the who gave us a private tour of local land- Bay of Naples on the island of Ischia, the marks, including the Giardino della Minerva, summer retreat of locals and of the poet the former medicinal garden of the Schola Ovid (I told myself, justifying this excursion Medica Salernitana, founded in the 9th as educational). We missed our ferry back to century as the first and most important the mainland, but luckily were able to book medical school of the medieval period. a second one two hours later; if we hadn’t, Beyond the academic reasons for the we might have missed our flight and would visit, the trip allowed us to learn just the have never been able to return home, but smallest bit about the culture and lifestyle I’m not sure I would have minded. m

• 16 • • 17 • STUDENT TRAVEL STUDENT TRAVEL

June in Berlin by Sheridan Marsh (’20) Munich and Berlin by Emily Mitchell (G2)

his summer, I had the great oppor- A. E. Housman infamously spoke of “the Ttunity to travel to Berlin, Germany, chain gangs working at the dictionary in to study German at the Goethe-Institut the ergastulum at Munich . . . ” He was out for four weeks. I was fortunate to receive a of order! Far from a kind of ‘dungeon’ on grant from the Charles P. Segal Memorial a Roman latifundium in which slave labor- Student Travel and Research Fund so that I ers are confined, the TLL is a welcoming, could pursue these studies for my research. lively, and collegial environment. At pre- This was my first time in Germany, and I cisely 12:20 p.m. each workday, contrib- was excited to be in Berlin, which is a lively utors would assemble and venture outside and diverse city. Every weekday, I spent my for communal lunch and coffee; everyone afternoons in my Intensiv A1 German class, working there, irrespective of seniority, where I spent about four hours learning the was invited. These lunch breaks proved an basics of German grammar and vocabulary. excellent opportunity for me both to im- My mornings and weekends were mine, prove my conversational German and to and so I spent the time traveling around get to know the many different Latinists the city and visiting various museums. Of involved in the project. During my free course, one of the first on my list was the time, I also had a wide range of opportuni- Altes Museum, home to Berlin’s collection ties to attend various lectures and seminars of Greek and Roman antiquities. While I at Munich’s main university, including a was there, I got to see an incredible bust of Juliet. At the beginning of June, there was a I am from Los Angeles, it was amazing memorable class on Seneca’s Phaedra con- Antinous and the adopted son of Herodes parade celebrating the diversity of cultures for me to see the extensive transportation ducted entirely in Latin by professor emeritus Atticus, Polydeukes, both of whom are that call Berlin home which featured system in Berlin, which was almost always uring the summer of 2019, thanks to for this word, beginning with the earliest Wilfried Stroh, to visit the city’s various featured in my senior thesis. I also visited performers and groups from all parts of on time and meant that I could get Da generous grant from the Charles attestation and tracking its subsequent de- museums, including the Staatliche Antik- some beautiful 18th-century palaces at the community and had an accompanying basically anywhere I wanted to without P. Segal Memorial Student Travel and velopment through time. During my time ensammlung (containing the famous ‘Dio- Charlottenburg and Sanssoussi, both homes fair with food and souvenirs. One of the much trouble. I also really appreciated a Research Fund, I was able to spend nine at the TLL, I prepared entries for four sep- nysus kylix’), and to take part in the annual to Frederick the Great of Prussia. more exciting aspects of Berlin is its club Berlin classic, Currywurst, a fried sausage weeks in Germany: eight at the Thesau- arate words: TLL Summer School (a week-long series The arts and entertainment in Berlin culture, and I went to several clubs to dance eaten with a curry-ketchup sauce and fries. rus Linguae Latinae (TLL), which is based • reparator (‘restorer’ or, in Christian of workshops and lectures involving Lati- were a huge part of my trip, and I attended to some rhythmic electronic music and Currywurst was cheap and easy and one of at the Bayerische Akademie der Wissen- texts, ‘Redeemer’); nists from all over the world). I therefore several concerts, one of which was a free marvel at the fantastical décor inside these my favorite discoveries of Berlin. Overall, schaften in Munich, and one in Berlin. • reputatio (the act of ‘computing’ or learned a huge amount in Munich besides concert held outside in public in front of hidden spaces, which had very nondescript Berlin was not only a great place for me to My focus in Munich was learning the- ‘considering’); the lexicographical techniques that were Humboldt Universität by the Staatsoper. façades. start learning German to read scholarship fundamentals of the lexicographical meth- • reses (‘sluggish’ or ‘lazy’); and my primary focus. m • resupinare (‘to move something They played one of my favorite pieces, the My favorite parts of Berlin, however, but also to experience one of the most od used at the TLL. The goal of the project Above: Coming face-to-face with the (surprisingly backwards/onto its back’). Mendelssohn violin concerto. I also saw a were experiencing the everyday aspects unique and fun cities in the world. m is to compile a comprehensive dictionary small) Duenos inscription! ballet production of Prokofiev’s Romeo and of the city, such as the public transit. Since of classical Latin. Towards this end, the TLL One of the most pleas- Below: In the Zettelarchiv of the TLL. maintains a catalogue of the attestations of ing aspects of doing this Above: New color reconstructions of the Riace warriors in the Altes Museum. Below: Advertisements for the renovation of the U5 U-Bahn line. every known word in the language, rang- somewhat meticulous ing from the earliest extant Latin texts work was the opportu- to the time of Isidore of Seville (d. 636 nity it afforded me to CE), stored on thousands of paper slips, examine a wide range or ‘Zettel.’ The individual lexicographer’s of Latin texts outside the task is to review all of the slips relating to traditional canon, many a single word, attempting to identify ev- of which I had not en- ery shade of meaning that it has carried countered before and in extant Latin literature, and ultimately greatly enjoyed engaging to prepare what is essentially a ‘biography’ with for the first time.

• 18 • • 19 • STUDENT TRAVEL STUDENT TRAVEL

Paris, July 2019 by Davide Napoli (G2) Papyrology in Lecce by Alejandro Quintana (’20)

uly 25, 2019: the hottest day ever the classes, which ran from 9:30 to 12:30 not capture your attention: Haussmannian his past summer, thanks to the gener- two former Harvard alum- Jrecorded in Paris. I thought I had Monday–Friday, with two additional af- architecture is rightly one of the most dis- Tous funding of the Finley Fellowship, ni, Yvona Trnka-Amrhein escaped the famous Parisian canicule (heat- ternoons per week, the most effective way tinctive features of Paris. I attended the 29th International Congress and Rob Cioffi (both PhD wave), but here we go, only a few days for me to learn French was to hang out Despite the sometimes discouraging of Papyrology at the Università del Salen- ’13). before my homecoming: 10:00 p.m. and with French people: I was lucky to meet number of tourists, Paris is an awesome to. The conference was set in Lecce, Italy, The city also naturally still 109 degrees Fahrenheit—no A/C, several people from Paris, beginning with city for students, at least for a short-term a city with a distinctive sandstone color invited me to explore its no fans in the house, none in most of my flatmate, but in my experience it is stay; except for rents, the cost of living is whose history extends back to the Roman sites, food, and culture. I had the bars. Uncanny meteorological events not too hard to get to know locals anyway low compared to Boston, the transport Republic and beyond. many delicious lunches and notwithstanding, the month I spent in (given the amount of bars, clubs, open-air is very reliable, and the downtown is Naturally, much of my time was spent dinners, enjoying the wide Paris to learn French, generously funded restaurants, and cultural events). As for the self-contained enough that one can just at the conference itself. Listening to the variety of pasta, pizza, sea- by the Charles P. Segal Memorial Stu- museums, I would recommend visiting use Vélib (the city bike-sharing service). panels and attending the workshops was a food, and meat offered in dent Travel and Research Fund and the not only the big ones (don’t miss the Lou- I would recommend walking outside new and engaging experience. These talks Lecce. I often shared these Westengard Fund, was an incredibly en- is Vuitton Foundation, a bit far but defi- as much as possible: sometimes you just were extremely informative, and many meals with fellow papyrolo- riching experience. The course itself was nitely worth it), but the numerous private run into inspiring events on the street, directly informed my thesis, especially by gists, where we truly got to challenging and interesting: Sciences Po (and free!) galleries that are a significant and there is a great pleasure in just stroll- providing background for the project. The know one another beyond does an amazing job at providing teach- part of the art scene in Paris. There is a lot ing around with friends (speaking only conference also helped shape my general the scope of the conference, ers who are knowledgeable about French to like in a city like this, but one of the French, of course!) and enjoying the research interests and my other projects. forming lasting friendships. culture and politics at large, so that each most surprising features was the amount charming views of the Seine. m I was apprehensive about being the sole My favorite ways to pass class revolves around the discussion of a of small, family-owned places—cafés, undergraduate in attendance, but this only the time in the city were highly significant topic (e.g., May ’68, the bistros—that have such an authentic and A view of the Hôtel de Ville, the city hall, from a enhanced my experience. During the taste-testing all the gelato restructuring of the city after 1848, the distinctive vibe. And when you go out, it rooftop bar. time between panels, I was able to interact it had to offer and attempting to navigate Sant’Oronzo, which is dominated by the rise of the Yellow Vests). In addition to is hard to find a single building that does with many scholars, who were particularly its narrow, windy streets without using any remains of a large Roman amphitheater. supportive because of my age, and creat- maps and promptly getting quite lost. However, what really caught my attention ed many valuable connections with them. But what really stood out was the archi- was Lecce’s beautiful gates. There’s some- Many of these people have become true tecture. The natural starting point for any thing about how they stand as a reminder mentors. I was also able to connect with Classicist is the city’s main square, Piazza of the former presence of walls around a city that really fascinates me. Porta Rudi- nae and Porta San Biagio were gorgeous, but Porta Napoli became symbolic of the trip itself. Every day, from the university we would walk by this beautiful gate on our way to lunch in the main part of the city. In this way, it became a literal gate to the city. This personal connection was only enhanced by the obelisk right next to the gate, which served as a striking testament to the union of the Classical and Egyptian worlds. This trip to Lecce was truly a won- derful experience, which blended learning, connections, exploration, collaboration, and discovery. m

Above: ISAW Graduate student Giorgios Tsolakis and I discussing the poster made by Lucia Waldschütz for the Congress. Below: Piazza Sant’Oronzo and its Roman amphitheater.

• 20 • • 21 • STUDENT TRAVEL STUDENT TRAVEL

From Berlin to Geneva by Alexandra Schultz (G6) Fondation to Fontanka by Alexander Schwennicke (G4)

ast summer, with support from the in the Pergamonmuseum was still under y summer was a tale of opposites. scribed as a larger version of Smyth or Wid- LCharles P. Segal Memorial Student construction, but I discovered some unex- MOver the course of two months, I ener and the ideal place to spend a summer. Travel and Research Fund, I spent two pected treasures. In the Altes Museum, I fell went from a wooded estate in the hills to With its bright, well-stocked library, affable weeks improving my German at the in love with the Berlin painter’s name vase, a busy metropolis, from working as part and gracious administrator, and gifted chef, Goethe-Institut in Berlin, and two weeks an amphora that depicts Hermes (look- of a close-knit community of scholars to the villa of the enigmatic Baron Kurd von writing my fourth dissertation chap- ing spiffy in an embroidered tunic and roaming the bustling streets of a foreign Hardt (1889–1958) certainly is a fantastic ter at the Fondation Hardt near Geneva. polka-dotted winged sandals) and a satyr city, and from the peaceful study of the an- place to read and write. The Fondation’s Despite not having spoken German for flanking a thin-limbed fawn. I could have cient world to a restless quest for its traces great strength as I see it, however, lies pre- nearly a decade, I managed to con the In- spent hours in the “Library of Antiquity,” and echoes in the 19th century. Thanks cisely in the fact that it is and feels much stitut’s placement test into sorting me into the papyrus collection in the Neues Mu- to generous support from the Charles P. smaller than Widener and even Smyth. I the B2.2 class (ha!). I spent the entire first seum: especially delightful were the math- tury Germany, but one that stayed with me Segal Memorial Student Travel and Re- had my own room and my own desk in week happily and hopelessly lost, franti- ematical papyri with illustrated geometry as I explored that vibrant, complicated city. search Fund, I spent two weeks at the Fon- the library, but with the exception of the cally reviewing prepositions and princi- problems, and a Homeric glossary to Iliad The past and its rewriting was the fo- dation Hardt pour l’étude de l’Antiquité occasional swim in Lake Geneva, I rarely pal parts during the breaks, cursing my Book 1, which glossed μυρία as πολλά cus of my work at the Fondation Hardt. classique outside Geneva and one more ventured forth from the villa, and I worked useless store of hard-earned vocabulary and so forth. A cute analogy between the Linguistic whiplash and a very long train in Saint Petersburg, where I stayed just off alongside, and took all my meals with, a (Abklatsch, Ehrendekret, Säulengang) as I ancient schoolroom and my German class- ride left me semi-catatonic when I final- Fontanka, a branch of the Neva that flows group of classicists that never numbered failed to express myself again and again. es suggested itself to me here. But if my ly arrived late one Monday, but I soon fell through the city center. more than nine. This enlightened form When you spend years navigating the un- time in Berlin taught me anything, it is to into a productive and restorative rhythm: The praises of the Fondation have been of monasticism offered the rare opportu- known unknowns of dissertation research be wary of how classicists sometimes lose luxurious days in the library; lovely meals sung recently in these pages: it was de- nity to engage in sustained dialogue with and writing, it can be satisfying to be very sight of, or willfully obscure, recent history prepared by the swashbuckling, polyglot classicists from dif- bad at something and then be noticeably through the excavation of the past. In fact, chef, Heidi; late-afternoon swims in Lake ferent countries and less bad after a short period of time. In- the textbook I remember most vividly was Geneva; the occasional after-dinner ping subdisciplines, from a In the Baron’s library. deed, by week two I was, if I do say so tucked away in a dinky DDR museum, pong tournament with a changing cast of charming Parisian pla- myself, not abysmal at German. and it contained the following math word characters. Having uninterrupted time to tonicien to an outspo- tions of Euripides. Not so on our American With five hours of class every morn- problem, illustrated with smiling children write and think is itself a rare privilege, not ken Israeli art historian shores: the symbolist poet and translator, ing and mandatory afternoon excursions, climbing into a military convoy: “A soldier to mention the amenities that the Fonda- and archaeologist. I Innokentiy Fyodorovich Annensky (1855– I was eager to explore the city: picnick- can take nine Pioneers with him, and there tion provided. In my case, it gave me the left Vandœuvres with 1909), is hardly a household name, and ing in Tempelhofer Feld, cycling through are five soldiers total. How many of the mental space to step back and rethink my a firmer grasp on the the Russophone reception of Greek and Tiergarten, making a mess of vegetarian best Pioneers can visit the military base?” fourth chapter. I had originally planned to development of Ro- Roman texts has only recently begun to doner in Kreuzberg. Sadly, the Great Altar Hardly the most chilling relic of 20th-cen- write only about depictions of universal man law (my subject receive the scholarly attention it deserves. libraries in Hellenistic Jewish and Babylo- of study), but also with I learned in Petersburg that inglorious lives nian pseudepigraphical sources, but on day a sense of gratitude for leave few traces and that posthumous rec- one I realized that a lot more needed to be having glimpsed a rare ognition is not always in particularly good said. What ensued was a flurry of writing international and in- taste: no sign marks the house at 24 Moy- as I unpacked these anachronistic narratives terdisciplinary Eden. ka River Embankment that housed the about golden-age kings founding royal li- “Innkentiy Annensky symbolist and acmeist journal Apollon that braries, and tried to explain why they all was richly reward- Annensky edited, and a new statue of An- projected contemporary ideas about librar- ed with posthumous nensky outside the school where he taught, ies into the historical past. My thanks to glory for a lifetime of which takes its cue from the great critic the Department for funding my summer obscurity,” announced Gumilyov’s description of the poet as “the travels, without which none of this would Mikhail Gasparov in last swan of Tsarskoye Selo,” has not found have been possible! m his 1999 introduction favor with the local community. His poetry to Annensky’s transla- lives on. m Above: In der “Bibliothek der Antike” (die Papyrussammlung im Neuen Museum). Left: Extrawurst im KaDeWe. “The last swan of Tsarskoye Selo” ©Tatyana Brovkina.

• 22 • • 23 • STUDENT TRAVEL STUDENT TRAVEL

Hadrian’s Wall by Stephan Shennan (G5) Roman Britain by Justin Tseng (’21)

t first glance, spending an afternoon parts of northern Gaul. For this act, many ith funding received from the undertaking; it also brought out seeming sitting on the White Cliffs of Dover in the media have dubbed him the ‘first Charles P. Segal Memorial Student oddities of the construction. Steep cliffs A W watching cars, motorcycles, and trucks (or Brexiteer.’ Subsequently, many of the forts Travel and Research Fund for the summer guard some sections—far surpassing the lorries, as I was told they are called) load that I was researching were built around of 2019, I traveled to northern England usual 10-foot ditch generally constructed and unload at the docks below might not this time, in the second half of the 3rd to spend time studying Hadrian’s Wall. I on the north side of the wall—but even seem related to Ancient History. Yet the century CE. Therefore, understanding the walked the entirety of the wall from east to in those areas Romans saw fit to make the archaeological record in Dover tells quite circumstances before and after Carausius’ west over the course of ten days, with stops wall continuous. As a defensive structure, a story, an ancient story that has persisted revolt helps to provide the context for the at many of the existing Roman sites along a wall is largely superfluous at the top of throughout the longue durée. construction or refitting of these forts. the way. Originally standing approximately a hundred-foot cliff. Perhaps the Romans Thanks to a generous grant from the From London, I travelled to Bath, with 80 Roman miles (about 73 modern miles) aimed for a sense of perfection, to complete A mithraeum south of the wall (above); Charles P. Segal Memorial Student Travel an interesting array of topics to explore, long, with forts every mile and generally 2 the wall from sea to sea. After walking Roman Vindolanda (below) and Research Fund, I spent three weeks last from the Roman Baths to Jane Austen smaller fortlets in between each fort, the along it, I had the very strong sense that August in the United Kingdom, studying to Mary Shelley. The Roman Baths wall has been covered over in significant the wall served not only as a fortification which I visited. One of them, Vindolanda the Saxon Shore forts and Roman rule in provided an interesting look into cultural portions over the last two millennia. Even but as a border almost in the modern sense; (modern day Chesterholm), has yielded Britain. I started my journey with a few days interactions in the Roman Empire, such as so, a great deal of the wall itself and its Rome was dividing its empire from the a breathtaking treasury of items. The in London, in the British Museum, looking Roman soldiers from the western Balkans supporting structures remains, especially in northern reaches, and in the absence of a Vindolanda tablets are the most famous at some medallions and coins of Carausius. and Syria serving in Britain and buried in Selfie with the remaining Roman lighthouse at the middle of the country. There are natural boundary like a river they created elements, recording the daily activities Dover! Carausius was a naval commander in Bath or the association of Minerva with segments given over entirely to modern one between the Tyne River and Solway of a fairly wide swathe of life connected Britain during Diocletian’s Tetrarchy. He the Celtic goddess Sulis, who gave the Shore fort at Cardiff Castle. Cardiff Castle is roadways or farmers’ boundary walls, but Firth. The defensive position was at once to a Roman army camp, including what revolted during the mid 280s CE and name of Aquae Sulis to Roman Bath. a medieval and Victorian castle built on top in these places there is often still visible real—controlling the flow of people and is some of the earliest known woman’s carved out a mini-empire consisting of From Bath, I journeyed to Cardiff, Wales. of an ancient Roman fort, whose remains evidence of the other great component of goods—and conceptual, marking Rome handwriting in Latin. The museum and the Roman provinces of Britain and There, I had my first glimpse at a Saxon you can still see in the subterranean levels the defensive complex: the vallum, a 20- off from the wilds beyond. collections here were a definite highlight of the modern museum. Even though foot-wide ditch with 10-foot ramparts on Unlike other provinces, Roman Britain of the trip, and truly astonishing. most scholars do not regard it as part of the either side that runs across the country remained a largely military project, with a The military character of Roman Britain White Cliffs of Dover and the modern docks connecting Britain to continental Europe Saxon Shore forts, they do recognize the on the south side of the wall. There is no comparatively greater portion of Roman feels deeply connected to the imposition similarity in the architecture, geography, other Roman frontier so fortified, and the interaction centered on military elements of the wall, even though just a generation and layout between Cardiff Castle and landscape still bears the scars of this great years after the province nominally had later the limits of empire seem to have the Saxon Shore forts. I also journeyed to earthwork project. been pacified and integrated into the been pushed north to the firths of Forth Caerleon and Caerwent. Caerleon is home Walking the countryside was an larger empire. There are numerous barracks and Clyde (the Antonine Wall). Nowhere to the site of a legionary fortress that the important part of understanding the wall. sites under excavation both along and else does Rome so determinedly cut Romans called Isca Augusta/Silurum and Not only did it drive home the scale of the on the south side of the wall, many of itself off from further lands by such a an amphitheater. The fortress was built as border; Roman Britain is different, weird the first stepping stone for the Roman even, for its fortified border and strong invasion of Wales, and while a large portion military presence. When thinking about of it is unexcavated, the amphitheater is the provinces, categories of Roman mostly excavated and accessible. Caerwent and other, and indeed the entire debate was known to the Romans asVenta Silurum about ‘Romanization,’ it is useful to see and home to impressive stone fortifications, the borderland as far as one is able. At as well as a later Norman mound. It was Hadrian’s Wall it seems there was a clear extremely interesting to see how the distinction between what was or could be ancient walls were incorporated into the Roman and what was not. That this is the local, modern landscape, with roads being exception rather than the rule only adds to built passing through the ancient gates and its value. m homes using parts of the wall to enclose A turret along Hadrian’s Wall their yard. Caerwent was also home to the

• 24 • • 25 • TSENG (CONT.) STUDENT TRAVEL remains of a Roman forum, basilica, and traveler about the garrison, including 19th century, for fear of invasion during the From Britain to Germany (via France and Switzerland) by Jorge Wong (G3) many more buildings. During my last full soldiers from Raetia et Noricum, two Napoleonic Wars, one of them was mostly day in Cardiff, there was a huge rainstorm Roman provinces that encompassed parts demolished—the base still remains—to that reminded me why so much of the of modern Bavaria and Austria. make room for military fortifications. Roman archaeological record in Britain From Chester, I finally made it to Reading Julius Caesar’s description of s I am writing this note, I scroll comprise the remains of floor heaters. Canterbury in Kent, the region in the White Cliffs of Dover and watching Athrough the thousands of pictures From Cardiff, I headed north to southeastern England that is home to the seamless flow of traffic to and from I took this summer. At the British Mu- Chester, another Roman legionary most of the Saxon Shore forts. Canterbury, France at the docks below, I thought seum, a beautiful 6th-century axe-head fortress (Deva Victrix) and home to the like Manchester, was the central point about the complicated relationship Britain from Sybaris records its dedication to largest Roman amphitheater known in between many of the Saxon Shore forts has had with continental Europe since Hera by Kyniskos (Lil’ Bow Wow), the Britain. Again, it was fascinating to see and was the perfect place for me to base antiquity, as represented in the archaeology butcher, a tithe from his works. At the how the modern landscape was affected myself as I explored; and from there, I and history of Dover, from the Roman Louvre, an exhibition on Bronze Age by the ancient walls, and the four main made daytrips to Richborough and Dover, invasion forts to Roman lighthouses, from Cyprus and the Levant offers valuable roads out of the city had to conform to two archaeologically significant sites. the construction of the Saxon Shore comparanda to contemporaneous arti- the gates of the Roman walls. I made two Richborough was home to one of the very forts to the construction of the Norman facts from Crete and mainland Greece. significant daytrips from Chester, west to well-preserved forts, but due to geological Castle, from the 18th-century gunpowder One cannot help but wonder at how in- Caernarfon and northeast to Manchester. changes in the last 1300 years or so, it is magazines to the demolition of one of the terconnected the Bronze Age Mediter- At Caernarfon I visited the Norman very much an inland fortress nowadays Roman lighthouses during the Napoleonic ranean must have been and how many castle and the Roman fort of Segontium. and difficult to imagine as a coastal fort. Wars, from the anti-aircraft and machine stories and customs were exchanged Segontium was up on a hill, in a mostly Dover, on the other hand, is very much a gun emplacements from the Second World along with many of the items. Berlin–– residential area, on a road interestingly modern coastal city. Having finally made War to the modern day docks, with their no photograph can capture the awe I felt named Ffordd Cwstenin, Welsh for it to Dover and seen the less-excavated freedom of movement between Britain when I first saw the Gate of Ishtar or the Constantine Road. At Manchester, remains of both the Saxon Shore fort and and the Continent. One can only hope satisfaction I experienced every time I the Roman fort there is mostly gone, the earlier naval fort, I immediately made that both Britain and continental Europe ate falafel. Munich had many a fine vase, and a few replica inscriptions and the the mistake of deciding to hike up from will recognize the effects they have had but none captured my imagination as recreation of a section of the wall are all the city to Dover Castle to see the White on each other’s history and that a spirit of much as an Athenian skyphos from the that remains. The fort at Manchester was Cliffs of Dover and the Romanpharos cooperation, and not of Roman lighthouse end of the 6th century accurately depict- meant as a relay point between the two (lighthouse) at the top. The lighthouse was demolition out of fear, will prevail. m ing a Bactrian camel. large legionary fortresses at Chester and originally one of two that the Romans This grand tour of some of the most York, and the inscriptions tell the modern built at Dover. However, during the early Saxon Shore fort at Richborough important antiquities collections in Eu- rope was made possible through a very generous grant from the Charles P. Segal Memorial Student Travel and Research Fund. During my five-week trip, I trav- ele by train, explored the cities on foot, and followed every single impulse of the γαστήρ. I began in London, then headed cient world? What greater joy and serenity Lion from the Ishtar Gate to Paris, and made a brief stop in Lausanne was there to me than to meet an object to deliver a paper at this year’s CorHaLi, with no other obligations to fulfill than something in it . . . I always go to sea as a where I was happy to share meals and its contemplation, knowing that I could sailor, because they make a point of paying words with Davide Napoli and Professors revisit it after lunch or the next day if I me for my trouble, whereas they never pay David Elmer and Naomi Weiss. After an so desired––to live and see and think passengers a single penny that I ever heard invigorating weekend in Switzerland, I despacito? Traveling this summer, I felt of. On the contrary, passengers themselves headed to Germany. There I was hosted lucky, very lucky, to be a student in this must pay. And there is all the difference in .department, where we may not make the world between paying and being paid ,يبيبح ,by a good friend. Abdurrahman thanks for the ξενία. as much as bankers, but we live like mil- The act of paying is perhaps the most un- What was this journey if not the oppor- lionaires. As Ishmael once said: “To go as comfortable infliction that the two orchard tunity to reflect on what little I know and a passenger you must needs have a purse, thieves entailed upon us. But BEING how much I can still learn about the an and a purse is but a rag unless you have PAID—what will compare with it?” m

• 26 • • 27 •

Athena Lemnia: cast acquired from the Caproni Gallery, Woburn, for Smyth Library, 2020