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Mustang Valley MMu s t a n g vva l l e y Wild horses have come to symbolize one First Nat i o n ’s battle over territory in British Columbia’sColumbia’s Chilcotin country STORY BY ANDREW FINDLAY WITH PHOTOGRAPHY BY PATRICE HALLEY he horse stirs and to s s e s its head anxiously, its muscular body chest- nu t - b r own save for a white stripe run n i n g do wn the length of its snout like a couloir of sn o w. Chief Roger William adjusts the sad- dle cinch in silence, slips a boot into the st i r r up and hoists himself into the saddle. A gust of dry air blows Tdo wn the val l e y , rattling the aspens and shimmering the pine grass in golden waves, while two ravens soar on a thermal, rid- ing up the crumbling sedimentary flanks of Mount Nem a i a h be f o r e resolving into black dots against the blue sky. If William is nervous about the mountain race about to be- gin, it doesn’t show or, at least, he is keeping his emotions wel l concealed behind mirror ed sunglasses. The 39-year-old chief of the Xeni Gwet ’in (ha-nay gwet - e e n ) has ridden his quarte r horse Morgan to victory in the legendary race five times. The only other competitors this year are Ter r y Lulua, a vet e r a n mountain racer, June Cahoose, a steely-nerved yo u n g woman from Anahim Lake, and George Anderson, a brash to b a c c o - c h e wing Carrier from Quesnel, B.C., whose constant chatter betrays his nerves. In the valley far below, country music croons while an ex- cited crowd of cowb o ys, tourists and locals waits for the start of the race, the marquee attraction at the rodeo hosted ever y August by the Xeni Gwet ’in First Nation, one of six Tsi l - hq o t ’in communities that form the Tsi l h q o t ’in National Gov- ernment in the heart of Chilcotin country, the region be t w een the Fraser River and the Coast Mountains of wes t - central British Columbia. To the southeast, Mount Ts’y l - o s (si g h -loss), the central figure of a Xeni Gwet ’in legend, keeps a silent vigil over the proceedings, sunlight glistening off a sil- ver y tongue of ice that tumbles down its face. Two weeks ago, 10 wild horses grazed lazily in this pasture. Among them wer e three mares as black as obsidian, two with one clumsy white foal each and a third one expectant, dumped into the water by his stumbling horse. Spu r r i n g Veteran horsemen astride Chilcotin horses, Roger William its belly swollen. Like nervous teenagers, two frisky colts Morgan to the finish, cowb o y hat still clinging improbably to (AB O V E , with black hat) and Terry Lulua are neck and neck for pranced at a respectful distance from the powe rful light his head, William and his steed are a study in grace and speed. first place in the quarter-mile race, a short version of the br own stallion, whose blond mane lent him a regal, author- Tog e t h e r , they easily notch up another victory in a display of three-quarter-mile mountain race William, chief of the Xeni it a t i v e air. Tod a y , the wild ones are nowh e r e to be seen, per- horsemanship that evokes pride throughout the Xeni Gwet’ i n Gwet’in First Nation, has won 17 times. Nine-year-old Lane haps chased by the midsummer heat into the shaded First Nation. In just 90 seconds, the race is over . Setah ( LE F T , in white hat) watches as Trevor Quilt, 18, readies woodlands higher up on the Chilcotin Plateau or, more his rope for a calf-riding competition in the rodeo hosted by li k e l y , by the ringing bustle of the rod e o . ild horses and the Chilcot i n ar e al- the Xeni Gwet’in since the 1970s. The Xeni Gwet’in and the In a thunder of hoofs, the racers are off, galloping down the most synonymous. Par t of the frontier mys- conservation group Friends of the Nemaiah Valley are incline at a ludicrous pace, a cloud of dust billowing behind tique and character of this country for at least proposing the creation of a preserve to protect 200 or so and all but obscuring the riders. A fall here could be fatal for 200 years, the animal, called cayuse here, has wild-ranging horses in British Columbia ( PR E C E D I N G PA G E S ) horse and rider. In under a minute, the competitors are mWo r e recently emerged as a symbol of Xeni Gwet ’in stren g t h . from indiscriminate hunting and capture. splashing across Nemaiah Creek. As they break onto the The band is embroiled in a benchmark land-claims case that grassy flats of the rodeo grounds, William has a comforta b l e could change the way First Nations pursue their claims, and the lead. Lulua, soaking wet and splattered with mud, has wild horse has become emblematic of their culture and polit- dr opped from second to third after being uncerem o n i o u s l y ical struggle. Indeed, the ver y survi v al of Xeni Gwet ’in culture 5 2 CANADIAN GEOGRAPHIC M A R C H / A P R I L 2 0 0 5 CANADIAN GEOGRAPHIC 5 3 Tatla Lake Tweedsmuir Quesnel South Provincial 0 50 100 km They bolt and disappear into the trees, Kleena Keene Bella Park Lees Corner Coola CHILCOTIN PLATEAU CHILCOTIN Anahim PLATEAU Williams Lake Tatla Lake Eagle Lake Lake (LIttle Eagle lake) vanishing like fleeting apparitions. 100 Mile House Many in the ranching community maintain that the Chilcotin and the spirit of its people may be intrinsically tied to the sur- Brittany Enlarged Brittany Clinton Henry’s Nuntsi Prov. Triangle horses ( AB O V E ) are an invasive species that competes with Crossing area vi v al of the horse. Far Park Meadow Bute Lillooet The cayuse (meaning feral or domesticated mustang, espe- cattle for forage. They argue that the terms “mustang” and Upper Place Kamloops Tatlayoko Choelquoit Lake Inlet (Big Eagle lake) Captain George Town cially one tamed by aboriginal peoples) is also a symbol of eco- “wild horse” are used erroneously to describe feral horses Lake Triangle Merritt logical and genealogical controver s y . Conservationists who that were once domesticated and then turned loose. Elkin Lake Campbell Elegesi Qiyus River be l i e v e the wild Chilcotin horse has noble Spanish ancestry Homathko River- Wild Horse Tatlayoko Tatlayoko VANCOUVER Hope and may be among the last truly wild mustangs in Canada are emerald depths of Chilko Lake on the eastern slopes of the Protected Area Lake Konni Mtn. Preserve pitted against the provincial government, which considers the Coast Mountains. Some 375 Xeni Gwet ’in live on home- Nemaiah Valley Nanaimo cayuse feral (descended from once-domesticated animals) steads and small ranches in and around this pastoral val l e y . To Konni Lake and won’t protect it, and some local ranchers, who view it as the north, bounded by the Chilko and Taseko rivers, is the Bri t - In a view looking southwest ( TO P ) across an over g r a z er competing with cattle for forage, a nuisance to tany Triangle, a lofty and mysterious-sounding part of the Mount Ts’yl-os the Chilcotin Plateau toward the Coast (Mount Tatlow) Big Creek be managed. To the Xeni Gwet ’in, the cayuse is the nucleus gr eater Chilcotin Plateau. Hun d r eds of wild horses range be- ProvincialMountains, the Brittany Triangle lies above the intersection of the Chilko and Taseko of a centuries-old tribal horse culture, a source of saddle and tw een the valley and the Triangle. Park draft stock and an income in times of need. It is, unmistak- Judging by Wil l i a m ’s impres s i v e track rec o r d in the iconic rivers, near the bottom of the satellite ab l y , central to the Chilcotin ethos. mountain race, nobody understands horses like he does. Be- image. Clear-cuts are visible in the area Ts’yl-os ProvincialPark Taseko spectacled, soft-spoken and slight in stature, he seems an unlikely outside the Triangle. The Elegesi Qiyus Lakes co u red by the re t re at of continental ice sheets, cow b o y, let alone a community leader. In 1991, at the age of 25, Wild Horse Preserve ( LE F T ) was declared in the Nemaiah Valley forms a broad U-shaped quilt of he was elected chief of the Xeni Gwet ’in. He is fluent in Tsi l - 2002 by the Xeni Gwet’in First Nation, conifers and aspen-dappled meadows flanked by hq o t ’in (tsil-ko-tin), one of the Athapaskan language grou p . He which is also in a court battle over a claim mountains peaking at more than 3,000 metres. From its has proven to be a spirited role model, equally at ease strategiz- of title and rights to its traditional lands. Sheadwaters at Konni Lake, Nemaiah Creek meanders along the ing with lawyers in a Victoria office tower as he is riding the 0 5 10 15 20 25 km val l e y ’s 25-kilometre stretch to where it pours into the icy range with friends searching for wild horses.
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