CHAPTER 5

Archaeological and Historic Resources he area is steeped in regional and local his tory. Native Americans occupied the area since the re treat of the last glacial ice sheets approximately 12,000 years ago. The Mohawk Trail Scenic Byway follows the east-westT route used for approximately 10,000 to 12,000 years by the Native Americans to hunt, trade, and conduct war campaigns between the and Valleys. In subsequent years, the European settlers used the trail for the same purposes, and eventu- ally upgraded it to support the use of horse and cart. As the automo- bile increased in popularity the road was improved to better serve its use. The existing road, though officially opened as a modern highway in 1914, has only been maintained as a year round highway since the State assumed winter upkeep in the mid 1930’s. Prior to that time the road was shoveled by hand and often remained closed for long periods of time during inclement weather. The history of the Mohawk Trail Scenic Byway region is a signifi- cant component of the corridor management plan. The region’s his- tory plays an important role in understanding the unique resources of the area and preserving these assets for future residents and visitors. This chapter of the report provides insight into the development of the area prior to, during and after the construction of the Byway. This in- formation is intended to help to tell the story of the Byway.

The residents of the area during the Archaeological Paleo-Indian Period were hunters of Resources larger game such as caribou, using weap- ons mounted with a fluted spearpoint. Native American Only a few artifacts of this era have been found due to the wide distribution of Use of Area people. There are only four known sites Post-glacial effects, which produced the for this period in Western Massachu- agriculturally productive floodplain areas setts. The closest one to the Byway is of the Connecticut and Hudson River located in Deerfield. Most of the early Valleys, are also responsible for the more sites are located in lowland regions along spartan or severe conditions of the up- rivers and floodplains where food lands that lie between them. Beginning sources were close at hand. Evidence of approximately 12,000 years ago the ice the upland sites from this period are few retreated, leaving immediately behind it a due to the more limited resources of the vista reminiscent of today’s tundra condi- areas at this time; however, travel tions, including low shrubs. The result through the area was probable. was an area utilized by widely distributed, More productive soils evolved natu- thinly dispersed, and highly mobile rally, and allowed for an increase in the groups of hunter/gatherers. This period is number and diversity of the flora and classified as Paleo-Indian and lasted from fauna of the region. From the dominant, 12,000 to around 9,000 years ago. boreal type forest with little diversity, the

64 MOHAWK TRAIL SCENIC BYWAY landscape gradually took the shape of a period, is seen more toward the end of the more mature temperate forest with an in- Late Archaic and is also considered to creasing preponderance of nut producing predominate the other two. With its in- trees including oak, chestnut, and beech, troduction, the beginnings of a horticul- providing food for many species of wild- tural society emerge. All three cultures life including deer, bear, squirrels, etc. The are found in the region, however the more diverse herbaceous level increased Susquehanna was very common in the the foraging prospects for both animals Mahican-Mohawk Trail area. and humans. These changes initiated the Many prehistoric sites have been expansion of foraging societies into the documented along the Byway, though upland areas. The number of prehistoric not all have complete information. Ar- sites increased proportionately in re- tifacts for several of the sites have been sponse to the greater availability of food lost and/or the period of occupation is resources. not known. In order to protect the The period from 9,000 to 7,000 years sites, only general descriptions and lo- ago, the Early Archaic, is typified by a cations are included in this report. dramatic increase in the production of There are four prehistoric sites located nut bearing trees, with oak production in Shelburne. One of the sites has been tripling to about 30 percent over the dated to the Early Woodland period, previous period. The larger rivers sup- around 2,500 years ago. This site pro- ported a variety of fish and other duced several quartzite flakes (used to aquatic species that were important make other tools) and 1 quartzite core food sources, particularly shad, which from which flakes had been struck. predictably ascend the river each spring. Also recovered from this site were 11 The Middle Archaic lasted from about grit-tempered potsherds (pottery frag- 7,000 to 5,000 years ago, with the area ments) and 5 fire-cracked rocks, indi- following the general trend found in cating a prolonged habitation during Southern New England as to the num- this period. Another site, located in a ber of prehistoric sites found. rock-shelter, produced both quartzite The most sites have been found from and quartz flakes. Two other sites do the Late Archaic period of 6,000 to 3,000 not have the artifacts recorded years ago. The number of artifact styles (Mulholland). associated with this period increases and There are seven sites in Charlemont, is complicated by the fact that there were including one that served as a second- three distinct cultural traditions present ary, stone-tool production and mainte- (Laurentian, Small Stem, and Susque– nance site. Artifacts found at this site hanna) during that time. The types of ar- include 3 each of siltstone and quartzite tifacts differentiate these cultural flakes, and one each of chalcedony and traditions as well as the socio-cultural tra- quartz flakes, as well as 10 fire-cracked ditions. It is thought that the Laurentian rocks. Another site produced a projec- cultural traditions may represent a spe- tile point but no style was recorded. cialized adaptation by small, mobile bands Four other sites are documented with to exploit the interior resources without artifacts not reported or lost. The last semiannual relocations for food sources. site is “The Mohawk Trail”, placed on The Small Stem cultural traditions, which the National Register of Historic Places may have been handed down from the in 1972. It is a significant trail noted as a Middle Archaic, most likely exploited re- pathway connecting the Hudson and sources on a more seasonal basis by sum- Connecticut River Valleys. mering near the coast and wintering in Crossing into the Berkshire Segment the interior. The Susquehanna cultural in Florida, three more sites are cata- tradition, also considered a transitional logued. While the date of occupation for

CHAPTER 5: Archaeological and Historic Resources 65 these sites is not known, the artifacts communities along the Byway, and from one of the sites are stored at a identifies important locations and nearby museum. Another of the sites has properties within these towns. Tables already been destroyed. North Adams with the significant historic areas and contains another three sites, the first lo- properties in each town are included in cated near the ‘hairpin’ turn (actually in the appendices. Clarksburg). No date of occupation is Properties listed in this chapter and given for this site, however four projectile the appendix will be designated ac- points were discovered. Another site, cording to the definitions in the State near the location of Fort , Register of Historic Places 2001, was determined to be occupied some which are defined as follows: 3,000 years ago. Artifacts included a NRIND: National Register of Individual Wayland Notch projectile point. The last Property site is actually south of Blackinton and NRDIS: National Register District produced one vein quartz flake. The date NRMRA: National Register Multiple of the occupation is unknown. Resource Area (Refers to a community- There are four sites located in the wide or area-wide designation that in- town of Williamstown. One site reports cludes nomination of both individual artifacts found as “many indian relics”. and district properties.) Another site produced several flakes of grey chert, the residue of stone tool making. No date of occupation is known for either site. The other two sites both Franklin County produced Susquehanna Broad projectile points made from chert and both are Greenfield dated to around 3,500 years ago. The Mohawk Trail Scenic Byway be- These prehistoric sites along the By- gins or ends, depending on travel di- way, represent a significant historical rection, at the rotary located at the segment. Many of the known sites have intersections of Route 2, Route 2A not yet been fully examined; therefore and Interstate 91 in Greenfield. His- the possibility remains for more exten- torically, the town of Greenfield has sive results. Also, as the Byway was the played an important role as a regional connecting crossroad for several differ- economic center due to its location at ent cultures, further exploration may the junction between Northampton provide additional information concern- and , the and Bos- ing their interactions. This is a significant ton. This role has meant that the part of the history of the Byway. It in- events of Greenfield’s history are cludes more than 10,000 years, and strongly reflective of the development should be protected as such. occurring throughout the Byway. Be- cause the early history of Greenfield History of the Communities reflects the Mohawk Trail’s history it is along the Scenic Byway: important to understand this history. European Settlement As early as the Contact Period (1500- 1620) it is believed that Greenfield was to the Present at the crossroads for numerous Native The communities along the Scenic By- American travel routes. Settlement sites way each have interesting histories were documented in several locations, that are interwoven to generate a truly but the existence of an abundance of unique and fascinating story of the river and agricultural resources suggests Byway. This chapter briefly discusses that more extensive Native American the significant events that shaped the settlements existed in the area. The

66 MOHAWK TRAIL SCENIC BYWAY Greenfield area continued to be occu- larly metal industry and edged cutting pied by a substantial Native American tools. The first cutlery factory in population throughout the Plantation America, the J. Russel Company, was Period (1620-1675). However, the epi- constructed here. Between 1776 and demics that struck the lower valley Na- 1790 Greenfield’s population doubled tive American settlements in the late to 1,498 and exceeded that of Deerfield. 1610s and mid 1630s are believed to In 1846, significant improvements to have resulted in sizeable population the north-south rail corridor changed the losses. It was during this period that the focus of the economy in Greenfield. As a Native American trails that crossed the result, Greenfield’s population grew by area were improved as regional trans- 133% during the Early Industrial Period portation routes. The local Native (1830-1870). In 1855, Greenfield had the Americans traded with the colonial resi- highest foreign-born population of any dents in Deerfield, and participated in town in Franklin County. There was con- the English fur trade network that had tinued expansion of the railroad system been established by William Pynchon of during the Late Industrial Period (1870- Springfield in the late 1630s. 1915), and Greenfield’s population con- In 1673, Greenfield was included as tinued to grow during this period. part of an 8000 acre Deerfield land Greenfield developed a prominence in the grant, which at that time was consid- tap and die industry, which would, by the ered to be the northern frontier before early 20th century give the town a world- the Canadian border. During the Colo- wide fame. The completion of the nial Period (1675-1775) the Native Hoosac in 1876 dramatically in- American population declined dramati- creased rail traffic and prosperity in cally. The main economic pursuit of the Greenfield by establishing a rail line from local settlers was crop and livestock Fitchburg to Albany. In 1880, a new rail- production. Colonial agriculture was yard was constructed in East Deerfield, concentrated in the fertile lowlands. which further increased the traffic. At the The boundaries of the town were junction of the Fitchburg, Connecticut established between 1753 and 1793, River, Turners Falls Branch, and New and the town was incorporated in Haven and Northampton railroads, 1775. Less than half a dozen houses Greenfield had become the northern hub survive from this period among these of the Connecticut Valley. are the Jonathan Smead House (1735) Rail and streetcar service continued to a three-bay wide, center chimney serve as the dominant mode of transpor- structure with added lead-to, Lemuel tation until a shift to the automobile. In Smead House (1764) a center chimney the early 1900s, the primary east-west structure, and the Jonathan Smead travel corridor, Route 2, was improved. House (1765) a center hall house. During this period, the automobile began During the Federal Period (1775- to ascend to the position of the leading 1830), Greenfield grew due to the ex- mode of transportation. The eastern sec- pansion of manufacturing that was tion of the original Mohawk Trail be- developed and thrived as a result of the tween Charlemont and Greenfield use of the Green River for shipping. followed local roads along the Deerfield The area of Greenfield known as River Valley. Between 1919 and 1921, this Cheapside, named after its river port section of the road was upgraded to a counterpart in London, became a termi- concrete cement highway over Greenfield nus for river shipping in 1802. It soon Mountain to Shelburne. The 13-mile sec- became a major distribution point for tion of the road connecting Charlemont cloth, molasses, rum, tea, and sugar, as to North Adams was constructed be- well as manufactured goods, particu- tween 1911 and 1914 at a cost of

CHAPTER 5: Archaeological and Historic Resources 67 $368,000. The road extended from the tional Register Individual Properties. in Charlemont over In addition, the Leavitt – Hovey Whitcomb Summit in Florida to the base House located at 402 Main Street has a of Hoosac Mountain in North Adams. preservation restriction in accordance The construction included permanent with Massachusetts General Law 184 concrete bridges over the Deerfield and section 31-33. Appendix 5A includes a Cold River, and rock cuts through the listing of historically significant struc- Cold River Canyon in Florida and Hair- tures along the Byway in Greenfield. pin Turn in North Adams. The road was In September 2001, Arthur Krim, a officially opened on October 27, 1914. historian and consultant, completed a The road formed the connecting link of Mohawk Trail Early Automobile Corri- the State highway from to New dor Preliminary Survey Plan for the Mas- York and west. From 1922 to 1929, fur- sachusetts Historical Commission, which ther improvements were made to the sec- assessed the highway resources for the tion of the road between Shelburne, period between 1914 and 1965. The re- Charlemont and Florida. sources that were assessed included the Greenfield’s industries boomed dur- existence of the original highway road- ing the 1915-1920 war years. The post- beds and bridges, tourist cabins and mo- war depression took its toll, and tels, souvenir shops and lookout towers, population growth came to a sudden and roadside restaurants and filling sta- halt. Then, between 1925 and 1935 the tions that are associated with the auto era population made modest gains. The of the Mohawk Trail. This survey dated economic base of the town continued properties using town assessors’ records to grow during this period led by and oral interviews with property owners. Greenfield Tap and Die. Precision The report includes a listing of properties toolmakers and machine shops did that are recommended for further study. well during this period. Wooden prod- The report is intended to provide a basis ucts also remained a major Greenfield for further intensive survey of the staple. Headquarters for the New En- Mohawk Trail historic highway resources gland Box Company, the Rugg Manu- by the Massachusetts Historical Com- facturing Company was the nation’s mission in the future. largest maker of wooden hay rakes, According to this report, there are and Charles R. Field made wooden several notable auto-tourism era archi- baby carriage parts. Greenfield’s loca- tectural sites in Greenfield. The tion along a number of major transpor- Edgemere Hotel and the Longview Gift tation routes, particularly the Mohawk Shop were dated to 1922, and noted as Trail helped it to become an important important resources from this early pe- town for manufacturing. In 1963, In- riod. The Longview Tower and the terstate 91 was constructed. Howard Johnson’s in Greenfield are considered to be significant resources Historic Sites in Greenfield from the “Modern Highway Period” There are no properties located within (defined as 1942-1965). The Howard the Byway study area in Greenfield Johnson’s was noted as the last remain- listed as national, state or local historic ing Howard Johnson’s in Massachusetts districts or individually listed proper- with its original architecture and neon ties. There are three National Register sign that dates from 1963. The Howard Historic Districts in downtown Johnson’s restaurant was razed in June Greenfield, located to the east of the 2002. Also, of note from that period is Byway just beyond the project area on the Candle Light Motel located at the or near Route 2A (Main Street) in Greenfield Traffic Circle with its illumi- downtown Greenfield, and several Na- nated plastic sign from 1962.

68 MOHAWK TRAIL SCENIC BYWAY While this report identified 44 historic highway resources along the corridor, 11 properties were recommended in the re- port for National Register consider- ation. Of the sites in Greenfield, the Longview Gift Shop was recommended. Longview Tower and Scenic Overlook (1952) The Longview Tower is located one mile west of the Greenfield rotary on Greenfield Mountain, the overlook and tower provide a dramatic view north to Mount Monadnock in New Hampshire and to the in Vermont across the glacial Lake Hitchcock Valley. The hills visible in the east define the Connecticut River Valley, an American Heritage River corridor with historically significant Native American sites and remnant colonial agricultural landscapes. The tower was built in 1952 as part of the auto-related tourist trade, which de- veloped after World War I when the Mohawk Trail was improved and paved. Shelburne, Buckland The Long View Gift Shop and 112), Upper Street, Maynard Hill Road, To wer in Greenfield. and Shelburne Falls Charlemont Road and Cross Street. The village of Shelburne Falls is located Shelburne 1⁄2 mile from the Mohawk Trail on Route 2A and comprises land in the Shelburne, originally known as towns of Shelburne and Buckland on “Deerfield Pasture” or “Deerfield Northwest,” was first settled in the both sides of the Deerfield River. The village of Shelburne Falls contains a early 1760s. Shelburne was incorpo- mixture of manufacturing, retail stores, rated in 1769 and named for the Earl of Shelburne, the head of a ministry in office space, artisans’ studio spaces and restaurants. The towns of Shelburne England. During the Colonial Period and Buckland each also have an historic (1675-1775), agriculture was the pri- mary economic focus. Only three rural village center that is located out- side of Shelburne Falls. The Shelburne structures remain from this period, the Center is located on the Mohawk Trail Clark Tavern (built in 1762), the Stebbin’s Tavern (1770), and a portion to the east of Shelburne Falls. The loca- tion of this historic village center, al- of the Archibald Lawson House. though not easily visible from the Numerous sawmills and gristmills were established during the Federal Pe- Mohawk Trail, can be detected by the location of the First Congregational riod (1790-1830) in Shelburne along the Church. Buckland Center is not located Deerfield River. The numerous waterfalls along this portion of the Deerfield River within the Mohawk Trail Scenic Byway Study area. Buckland Center is located made Shelburne an ideal location for approximately 2 miles to the South of these type of industries. A considerable number of civil and educational buildings the Byway on Ashfield Road (Route

CHAPTER 5: Archaeological and Historic Resources 69 were constructed during this period, but Buckland was constructed. The 400 none remain. Twelve houses of the Feder- foot trolley bridge spans the Deerfield alist style constructed during this period River in Shelburne Falls and was built exist today. This extensive residential by the Shelburne Falls and Colrain development was a result of a large popu- Street Railway in order to give the line a lation increase of approximately 105.3%. physical link to the Boston & Maine During the Early Industrial period and New York, New Haven & Hart- (1830-1870), industry greatly ex- ford railroads at their station on the panded. A commercial district was es- Buckland side of the Deerfield River. tablished on Bridge Street and a Residential construction stopped residential area on Water Street. Manu- outside of the village, but within facturing, agricultural and transporta- Shelburne Falls workers’ housing of tion industries thrived. The new the Queen Anne and Stick styles, and businesses established included a har- 21⁄2 story houses of the Queen Anne, monica manufacturer, paper and cotton Stick and Craftsman styles were con- cloth. This increase in industry again structed. Most of the town’s institu- resulted in a dramatic growth in popula- tional buildings were constructed tion. The population of Shelburne grew during this time period including the by 58.9%, reaching 1,582 by 1870. A early Italianate schools, the Fox Town large increase in the 1840s can be corre- and Skinner Schools (1871), Victorian lated with the establishment of the Gothic Arms Academy (1880), the Lamson and Goodnow Cutlery Com- granite Gothic Revival Trinity Church pany in 1835, located in the Buckland (1884), Neoclassical brick Town Hall section of the Village of Shelburne Falls. (1897), Shelburne Free Public Library The architectural styles constructed (1898), a fieldstone Tudor/Craftsman during this period include Gothic Re- building at Shelburne Center (1905), vival, Greek Revival and Italianate. and an Eastlake/Italianate Chapel Two institutional buildings, the first (1875). The majority of the architec- Congregational Church of 1845 and ture in the commercial district from the First Universalist Church of 1870, this period is of the Romanesque Re- are the only to survive from this pe- vival Style and the predominant con- riod. The commercial blocks along struction material was brick. Bridge Street were also constructed The trolley line was discontinued in during this period including the 1927, but Shelburne Falls remained the Thayer Block (1837), the Swan Block center of industrial and commercial ac- (1847), the Hotel Block (1852), the tivity. In 1929, the Shelburne Falls Baker Block (1853) and the Bank- Women’s Club transformed the former Hillier Block (1858). trolley bridge into the Bridge of Flow- During the Late Industrial Period ers. In the early 1900’s auto related de- (1870-1915), industrial activity contin- velopment occurred along the Mohawk ued to increase in Shelburne Falls while Trail, one of the major transportation the populations of both Shelburne and conduits for the town. Buckland decreased. The increase in in- Today, Shelburne has an outstanding dustrial activity was due to the arrival of inventory of historic buildings as much the Troy and Greenfield Railroad in of the original commercial and residen- 1867 and the construction of two hy- tial neighborhoods remain intact. The droelectric plants in Buckland. community also remains an important In 1896 the Victorian iron truss commercial and industrial center for bridge was constructed, and in 1908 a the region. Historically significant resi- concrete trolley bridge (now the Bridge dential and civic structures are located of Flowers) connecting Shelburne and to the south of Route 2. The Shelburne

70 MOHAWK TRAIL SCENIC BYWAY Falls National Historic District cur- TABLE 5.1 rently includes 35 structures in National Register of Historic Places in the Shelburne Study Area Shelburne. A listing of the structures Date of and the sites within the historic district Name of Feature Location Designation is included in Appendix 5B. There are also over 95 significant struc- Shelburne Falls Historic District** Bridge Street and State Street 1/28/1988 tures in Shelburne representing a variety Buckland-Shelburne Bridge*** Bridge Street over Deerfield River 12/17/1981 of architectural periods that are integral to the historic character of Shelburne Falls **NRDIS District ***NR Historic Structures within NR District that are not currently included in the Na- tional Historic District. These structures Store is dated to 1930. The Mohawk include the Arms Academy (1880), Trin- Trading Post (1952), Duck Pond (1955) ity Church (1884), the Shelburne- and Gould’s Sugar House (1958) were Buckland Community Center (1928), noted as resources from the “Modern and the Sweetheart Restaurant, an ex- Highway Period” (dating from 1942- ample of Federal Revival architecture, lo- 1965). In Shelburne, evidence of the cated on South Maple Street. A complete original Mohawk Trail Road construc- list is included in Appendix 5C, “Histori- tion exists in several locations including cally Significant Structures in Shelburne Gould Road, Robert Road, Shelburne Recommended for Inclusion in the Center Road (Dragon Brook Bridge) Shelburne Falls National Historic Dis- and Summit Drive. The Orange Glow trict.” The Buckland-Shelburne Master Cabins (1935) were also noted as a prime Plan recommended that the Shelburne example of highway cabins constructed Falls National Historic District be ex- during the auto-touring era. panded to include these structures. Ac- cording to the Massachusetts Historical Buckland Commissions records other historically Colonial settlement did not occur in significant sites located on Route 2 in Buckland until 1769 and it was not until Shelburne include the John Long House 1779 that it was incorporated as a town. (1784), the First Congregational Church According to the Massachusetts Histori- of Shelburne (1845) and the New En- cal Commission (MHC) there were no gland Power Development #2 Gravity reported contact sites; however, Dam (1913). In addition, Appendix 5D Shelburne Falls was the location of large includes significant structures within Native American fishing encampments. Shelburne Center as compiled from the During the Colonial Period (1675- Massachusetts Historical Commission’s 1775), the MHC estimates that there may inventory forms. have been 10 families living in Buckland. According to the Mohawk Trail Early Residential structures were simple cot- Automobile Corridor Preliminary Sur- tages that utilized the center chimney vey Plan completed by Arthur Krim for plan and several of these homes were in the Massachusetts Historical Commis- the Clesson River floodplain. As in sion in 2001, there are several notable Shelburne, agriculture, such as livestock examples of auto-tourism era architec- and crop production, was the primary ture in Shelburne. The most notable is means of economic resources for the the Sweetheart Tea House in Shelburne. town. Four homes remain from this pe- Although the exact date of the construc- riod including the Nathaniel Coleman tion of this structure was not noted, it (1774), Samuel Taylor (1770) and Wilder has been dated to the Early Auto Period (1775) houses. (1922-1941). Goodnow’s Garage was The Federal Period (1775-1830) saw also dated to the 1920s. According to the construction of several institu- local records, the Shelburne Country tional buildings in Buckland. The

CHAPTER 5: Archaeological and Historic Resources 71 TABLE 5.2 National Register of Historic Places in the Buckland Study Area

Date of Name of Feature Location Designation Shelburne Falls Historic District** Bridge Street and State Street 1/28/1988 Buckland-Shelburne Bridge*** Bridge Street over Deerfield River 12/17/81 Buckland Odd Fellows Building*** 1–5 State Street 5/10/79** NRDIS District

**NRDIS District ***NR Historic Structures within NR District

population increased by almost 45% was limited mostly to Shelburne Falls during this time period predominately and continues as such today. in the 1790’s and reached 1,039 by The Mohawk Trail Early Automo- 1830. Upon the opening of the bile Corridor Preliminary Survey Plan Shelburne Bridge in 1822, economic completed by Arthur Krim for the focus began to develop at Shelburne MHC, noted that there are several Falls. The first meetinghouse of 1793 gasoline filling stations and auto repair brought civic focus to Buckland Cen- garages from the 1920s that have re- ter. The economic base for the towns mained in a modified form along State of Buckland and Shelburne was mainly Street in Buckland. These garages are agriculture, but there were several significant examples of the Early Auto small saw and gristmills. Period of the Mohawk Trail, and in- The architecture that remains from clude Ford Garage and Copley Garage. this period is extensive and much of it As in the case of Shelburne, Buckland is of superior quality. Houses and cot- also has an outstanding inventory of his- tages incorporated a variety of plan toric buildings. The list of structures that types including center hall and center are included in the National Historic Dis- chimney types. Most exhibit a five bay trict is included in Appendix 5E. In addi- façade with center entrances. Five bay tion, the structures included in Appendix center entrance facades and end inte- 5F were also recommended for inclusion rior chimneys of the Greek and Fed- in the expansion of the National Historic eral Revival Style were built in the District in the Buckland-Shelburne Master 1820’s to the 1840’s. The school at Plan. Also the MHC provided a list of Four Corners (1829) and two taverns historically significant structures located survived from this period. on Route 2 in Buckland, which is in- Proposed improvements to the cluded in Appendix 5G. Deerfield rail corridor were made with Shelburne Falls the Troy and Greenfield Railroad along National Historic District the Buckland side in 1855, but were de- As stated earlier in this chapter, layed due to the Civil War. In 1851, Shelburne Falls is located within a half a Lamson & Goodnow became the largest mile of the Mohawk Trail, and is unique establishment of The Early Industrial because it is comprised of the village cen- Period (1830-1870). The prosperity ters of two towns, Shelburne and brought to the area as a result helped to Buckland. Shelburne Falls is located establish the village of Shelburne Falls. along the banks of the Deerfield River. Several of the commercial buildings of Shelburne Falls was originally known as this time were destroyed in the fire of Salmon Falls during the spawning season 1876. The economic base for the town

72 MOHAWK TRAIL SCENIC BYWAY and called the Town of Trembling Waters by the Native Americans. Although there were no known Native American settlement sites between 1500 and 1620, Shelburne Falls was very productive for salmon fishing and it was believed that it was used as a resources area by the Deerfield Pocoumtucks. According to the Massachusetts Historical Commission, the Village of Shelburne Falls is an especially notable architectural resource area because most of its original blocks and residen- tial neighborhoods have remained in- tact. The Shelburne Falls National Historic District (NHD) was desig- nated on January 28, 1988, and encom- passes 26 acres of Shelburne Falls. The commercial core of the Shelburne Falls NHD, contains many contributing commercial, civic, and religious build- Shelburne Falls. ings located primarily to the north and Shelburne Falls National Historic Dis- south of Bridge Street in Shelburne trict be expanded to include additional and on State Street in Buckland. historically significant structures lo- In addition to the structures and cated in the neighborhoods adjacent to sites within the Shelburne Falls Na- the existing National Historic District tional Historic District, there are his- in both Shelburne and Buckland. Some torically significant landscape features, preliminary research towards compil- including the Glacial Potholes at the ing the necessary nomination forms bottom of Salmon Falls on the has been completed, and a preliminary Deerfield River. The Glacial Potholes list of the recommended structures were formed as glaciers receded and within each town is included in Ap- meltwater caused smaller rocks to spin pendices 5C and 5F. thus carving out these irregular holes. In Shelburne, the recommended ex- The Deerfield River Mill, or Frost pansion includes properties located in the Mill, is located off Deerfield Avenue area to the north and northeast of the ex- just north of the Glacial Potholes and isting National Historic District. The is currently occupied by a retail store, properties include architectural styles which makes and sells candles among ranging from Victorian to Federal Revival other items. The historic use of this to Italianate. In Buckland, the proposed land has been for industrial purposes. expansion includes 40 additional struc- As stated in the previous section of tures. The proposed would expansion the this chapter, immediately adjacent to historic district northward and include the Shelburne Falls National Historic portions of State Street, North Street, and District are neighborhoods with his- Williams Street; westward to include 4 torically significant residential, civic structures off of Clement Street; and buildings and manufacturing build- southward along the Deerfield to capture ings. The Buckland-Shelburne Master buildings off of Ashfield, Conway, and Plan, which was completed in May Summer Streets. These structures include 1999, after an extensive public partici- the residential and commercial buildings pation process, recommended that the that date from 1775 to 1940.

CHAPTER 5: Archaeological and Historic Resources 73 Charlemont Zoar, were also growing. The river val- The town of Charlemont was originally ley provided the town with good land known as Charley’s Mount, and was for grazing, accommodating some large incorporated in 1765. Although the dairies and large flocks of sheep. A few Massachusetts Historical Commission civic and commercial structures remain has no reported Native American sites from this period including the East in the town during the Contact Period Charlemont Schoolhouse (1828), a one- (1675-1775), Charlemont is located story brick building with side entry. The along the primary travel corridor be- two commercial structures that endure tween the Connecticut and Housatonic are the Wells Store (1820) and the Valleys through the Charlemont Inn (1775), whose adjacent along the Deerfield River. The Mohawk carriage sheds have been converted for Trail was documented as a major east- commercial use. The first liquor license west route during this time. Sources re- was documented at the Charlemont Inn vealed that Charlemont was an in 1787, and most of the sheds that important Native American hunting housed 150 horses have been removed. area and the town’s rugged terrain sug- Approximately, two-dozen residences gested that the settlements of this pe- along Route 2 remain from this period riod primarily consisted of seasonal with most appearing to be constructed hunting and fishing camps. after 1800. All of these structures have Charlemont lacked a colonial popula- center hall plans with double interior or tion until the 1740s, when there were end chimneys. three families living there. After the Line Travel along the east-west corridor of Forts was constructed in 1744, several improved during the Early Industrial military highways were also constructed. Period (1830-1870) when the Troy and After the French and Indian Wars in Greenfield Railroad was completed in 1763, there was considerable growth in 1868. Charlemont was at a prime loca- the colonial settlement. The settlement tion along this major transportation grew to thirty families by 1762, and in- corridor. Although the population had creased to 665 people after 1765. The remained relatively constant, by 1870, few homes that were constructed in the the town had lost 60 people. A depot 1740’s were abandoned in 1746 as a re- village became established along the sult of the attack on Fort Massachusetts south bank of the river, across from by French and Indian forces. The area Charlemont center, because of the rail- was resettled in 1749 and the first meet- road activity. Although Charlemont had inghouse was completed in 1772. Hall’s experienced some diverse settlement Tavern (1760) was the only remaining patterns, by the end of this period, the structure from this period. During the town had a well-defined village center. 1960s, the tavern was moved to Historic By 1855, the scythe industry, so Deerfield. The economy was based pri- prominent in Shelburne Falls and marily on agriculture and remained so Cummington during this period, was for much of the town’s history. the town’s largest industry. Industry Charlemont became one of the fast- also grew with the addition of edged est growing towns in the county during tool and small woodworking shops. the Federal Period (1775-1830). At this Houses were commonly constructed time, civic focus shifted from the Heath with the center hall, double chimney uplands to the Deerfield River valley plan and cottages often possessed the and the commercial center was expand- center or end chimney plan. Other ing along the Route 2 corridor (River structures still standing are the Avery Road). Two secondary centers, East Store (1846) and another Greek Re- Charlemont and the Mill Village at vival store built in 1840 that still retains

74 MOHAWK TRAIL SCENIC BYWAY its original façade. The Federated Church (1845) and the church built by the East Charlemont Congregation Society (1847), both Greek revival, re- main as well as the Center School (1850), the only educational building standing from this period. During the Late Industrial Period (1870-1915) improvements to the Mohawk Trail as an auto highway (1914) were completed. Civic focus remained at Charlemont Center and commercial growth was occurring in the center as well as at the depot village and the local mill village at Zoar with the Railroad depot. The diversity of industry had largely disappeared by the 1870’s. Only seven sawmills and two shops for scythes The Cottages at Mohawk Park in and chair stock remained. The Davis ring was a few tourist cabins and repair need of some repairs. Mine, located in Rowe, brought some garages along the corridor. The Mohawk prosperity to the town of Charlemont, Trail Early Automobile Corridor Pre- but several problems as well. Roads liminary Survey Plan completed by were damaged and trees were killed Arthur Krim for the Massachusetts His- along Route 2 as acid ore was spilled torical Commission, documented the during transportation. Other mineral construction in Charlemont that can be plants in the area included a crushing associated with the auto-touring era. The plant and loading station of the Massa- gasoline filling stations and auto repair chusetts Talc Company at Zoar and an garages located on Main Street date to iron ore mine on Mount Peak. Both the 1920s. These garages are significant the Frary Carriage Shop of 1892 and examples of the Early Auto Period of the the rake handle company established Mohawk Trail, and include Pizzi Garage by W. M. Pratt in 1891 accounted for and the Texaco Station. The Hail to the the prosperity. Several structures re- Sunrise Statute was erected in 1932 and main including approximately half a noted as an important roadside land- dozen residences, many in the Stick mark. Several groups of roadside cabins style and Queen Anne. Institutional that date from the 1930s are located in buildings include Goodnow Town Hall Charlemont including Mohawk Park (1892), Charlemont Elementary and East Charlemont. Also noted were School (1907), St Christopher’s the original log cabins at Mohawk State Catholic Church (1880) and Odd Fel- Park on the Cold River, which were built lows Hall (1900). Some of the motor by the Civilian Conservation Corp. in courts and one-story tourist cabins 1935-1936. The Indian Plaza gift shop may date from this period, as well. was also dated to this Early Auto Period. The Early Modern Period (1915- The Big Indian Shop was dated to 1954 1940) saw yet another decrease in having been built during the Modern Charlemont’s population by about 20% Highway Period (1942-1965). occurring mostly in the last five years of Historic Sites the period. The major transportation Charlemont’s rich colonial and Victo- corridor was the Mohawk Trail. During rian history can be seen through the this period, the only construction occur-

CHAPTER 5: Archaeological and Historic Resources 75 ments were also categorized in the in- ventory, including the Buttonball Tree Monument, the Old Oak Tree Monu- ment and the Hall Tavern marker. The historic sites located outside of the village historic district are not as well documented. At the time of this report, the Bissell Bridge, a covered wooden bridge, is in danger of being torn down. Although the bridge was rebuilt in 1950, the historical signifi- cance to the town has been established. The bridge is one of the last examples of covered bridge design completed by the state and the last remaining covered bridge in the town of the original four. East Charlemont East Charlemont has many historically significant structures and sites along the Mohawk Trail, including the Leverett The Big Indian Gift Shop Cemetery, the Little Red Schoolhouse, in Charlemont. architecture of the community. The and a monument to the Taylor Fort. entire village of Charlemont has been The Griel House, Hope Young House, designated as a National Register His- Richard Wilcox House, Douglas White toric District. The “Charlemont Vil- House are all good examples of early lage Historic District” was nominated nineteenth century colonial architec- in 1985, and included the area along ture. There is a monument to “The Old Route 2 from South to Marnet Streets. Oak Tree” in East Charlemont, where A list of the historically significant Charlemont men gathered for the structures that was provided by the Revolutionary war. East Charlemont is Massachusetts Historical Commission also the site of another schoolhouse lo- (MHC) is included in Appendix 5H. cated on the corner of Mt. Branch and This list includes individually listed Burrington Roads. historic properties that are not listed on the State or National Historic Reg- Charlemont Village ister, but have had an inventory for Much of Charlemont Village was built submitted to the MHC. during the nineteenth century. There The historic architecture that re- are many fine examples of Victorian mains in Charlemont can be classified architecture that remain today. The into the following categories: late oldest house in the town is located in nineteenth century Victorian houses, the village. It is the Moses Rice Home- eighteenth century colonial structures, stead and is also known as the “Button early nineteenth century colonial Ball House” or the Charles Warner structures and schoolhouses (Greek House (Jones, 1985). The Moses Revival, Georgian Revival and the stick House was originally built in 1742 and style). The site of the Rice Fort and rebuilt after a fire in 1749. The Taylor Fort are categorized as archaeo- Charlemont Inn is also among the old- logical sites. Cemeteries, both public est remaining original structures in the and family burial grounds, were also village having been built in the late classified as separate categories in the eighteenth century. There are also inventory as well. Historical monu- remnants of the many grist and lumber

76 MOHAWK TRAIL SCENIC BYWAY mills that lined the rivers at one time. The National Register recognizes the village for having many fine examples of the Greek revival style of architec- ture from the mid 19th century. The Federated Church provided the best example of this style. Zoar Village There are several historically signifi- cant sites located in Zoar Village, a sec- tion of Charlemont. The Zoar Cemetery and the Zoar Schoolhouse are both located on Zoar Road (Radasch, 1998). The historical Dyer, Paulsen and Nugent houses are also located on Zoar Road (Jones, 1985).

Berkshire County The Little Red Schoolhouse the list of historic properties for Located in East Charlemont. For each Berkshire County commu- North Adams and Williamstown is less nity in the Corridor Study Area we comprehensive than that of the other have briefly listed or discussed indi- communities along the corridor. Un- vidual properties and/or historic dis- like those communities, for which all tricts that have been considered the properties within the Corridor significant enough by individual prop- Study Area are listed, only those prop- erty owners or local communities as to erties that are located within a one to merit preservation enactment. This two block radius of the Scenic Byway may be through a local, state or na- itself were listed. This is due to the vast tional historic registration or through number of historic properties located a preservation restriction. within the Corridor Study Area. The A more complete list of historic most comprehensive inventory of his- properties is included in Appendices 5I toric properties in the Study Area can through 5K. It should be noted that

TABLE 5.3 National Register of Historic Places in the Charlemont Study Area

Date of Name of Feature Location Designation J.D. Sears House* Main Street 2/10/1988 St. Christopher’s Baptist Church* Main Street 2/10/1988 W.E. Niles and C. Rodgers Shoe Shop* Main Street 2/10/1988 Charlemont settlement marker Main Street War Memorial Monument*** Main Street 2/10/1988 Mohawk Trail* Route 2 in Charlemont, Savoy and Florida 4/3/1973 Charlemont Village Historic District** Route 2 between South and Marmont Streets 2/10/1988

CHAPTER 5: Archaeological and Historic Resources 77 TABLE 5.4 the purchase by the United States of National Register of Historic Places in the Savoy Study Area the territory of Florida from the Span- ish. A tourist guide to the Berkshires Date of Name of Feature Location Designation of 1889 describes the town as having elevations of 1,000 to 1400 feet and Mohawk Trail* Rt. 2 in Charlemont, containing drives that “are grandly Savoy and Florida 4/3/73 panoramic.” Florida’s first boom time came in * NRIND the second half of the 19th century, be found at the offices of the local when in order to complete the rail link Historic Commissions. between Boston and West, the railroad had to bore a tunnel through Hoosac Savoy Mountain to North Adams. After sur- The first European settlement of the veys were completed in 1850, work town occurred in 1777 by Mr. began at both ends of the tunnel, with Robinett and by the end of the Revo- the eastern portal in Florida and the lutionary War, a total of 35 families western portal in North Adams. The lived in Savoy. The town was formally tunnel, when completed, was four and incorporated in 1797 and given its three-quarter miles long, most of name, historians conjecture, because which is contained within the bound- of its resemblance to the mountainous aries of the town of Florida. More than country of Savoy in . By the a 1,000 men worked day and night on 19th century, Savoy was showing a re- the tunnel, and it took four years to markable diversity of industry with sink the 1,000 foot long shaft that steam sawmills, box manufacturers, bored straight down into the bowels of tanneries, printing shops and a large the mountain and over 20 years to fin- lumber mill along with three hotels. ish the tunnel completely. In 1875 the Equally diverse was the town’s reli- first trains moved through the 20-foot gious groups including Baptists, Con- high by 24-foot wide engineering mar- gregationalists, Methodists, Adventists vel that required the removal of 1.9 and Shakers all worshiping in Savoy. million tons of rock at a cost of $14 The Mormon Prophet Joseph Smith million and 195 lives. lived and proselytized in Savoy for a The Hoosac Tunnel time around 1810, before moving on. One of the most influential historic events to affect the Scenic Byway re- Florida gion was the endeavor to construct the The town of Florida is a village on the Hoosac Tunnel beneath Hoosac southern end of the Green Mountain Mountain, connecting the railroads of range, in the northwest corner of the east to direct western ports. The Berkshire County. Quiet and peaceful Mohawk Trail had provided, and still now, the town was once a boomtown does, access between the Hudson, as the staging site for construction of a Hoosic, and Connecticut River valleys railroad tunnel through the Hoosac for thousands of years. It was an im- Range. The first European settler in portant commercial road, both for the Florida was Dr. Daniel Nelson from Native American people and for the Stamford, Connecticut, who arrived in European settlers who immediately 1783. The town may have chosen its began to improve upon it. At best name, some historians conjecture, be- however, it was a difficult route for cause at the time it was named the trade, and with the extremely harsh most general topic of conversation was winters, was often impassable for peri-

78 MOHAWK TRAIL SCENIC BYWAY ods of time. The construction of the of North Adams grew considerably. The MAJOR FINDING Hoosac Tunnel provided a year-round smaller towns of Florida, Savoy and Many of the link to the commercial centers of Bos- Charlemont saw a temporary boom in historically ton and Albany. population, though most of this was di- Construction began around 1850. The rectly related to the construction of the significant struc- work was dirty, dangerous and never- Hoosac Tunnel itself, along with the sup- tures and sites ending, yet there were many willing porting industries that accompanied it. are not marked workers to be found in the recent immi- Once the tunnel was completed, much of for recognition. grant populations from Ireland, Italy, this transient population vanished. and Canada, as well as hardworking New Today the Hoosac Tunnel remains Englanders. Work proceeded around the an important rail link beneath the clock as there is no day or night in a tun- mountain. The Scenic Byway passes nel. As the number of workers grew, so directly over the Tunnel in Florida, too did the populations of the surround- which is over 1,000 feet below it. A ing towns. historic marker at this point of the Important scientific discoveries oc- Byway would be a tribute to the engi- curred along the way. The use of rela- neering and the men who died building tively unstable dynamite was the Tunnel, as well as recognition of eventually phased out and replaced the contribution the Hoosac Tunnel with the more effective nitroglycerin, has made to the development of life which was eventually found to be ex- and culture in the region of the Byway. tremely stable when in the frozen state, an unexpected side effect of the Clarksburg Florida winters! However, tragedy The first European settlers of happened also, in the case of a fiery Clarksburg, including Nicholas Clark, collapse in the main shaft that led to whom the town is named after, came to the loss of many workers lives. In all, the area in 1769 and began farming in over 195 lives were lost during con- the relatively level areas to the west of struction of the tunnel. what is now Route 8 and along upper The tunnel, upon its completion, reaches of the North Branch of the was one of the longest ever . The town was incorpo- constructed. The overall length is rated in 1798. The settlement of 25,081 feet and the central shaft runs Briggsville began in the early 19th cen- down over 1,000 feet. The Hoosac tury and included four mills by 1829. Tunnel was completed in 1875, taking Briggsville expanded around 1866 with about 25 years to complete, and the the construction of Linwood Woolen total estimated cost was $17,332,019. Company, a brick mill dedicated to the A little extrapolation shows that the weaving of cashmere. In 1885 Linwood average distance traveled toward employed 140 people. The village had completion was 2.75 feet per day, mak- ing an entire shift’s labor contribution equivalent to approximately 0.9 feet TABLE 5.5 for eight hours work! That same National Register of Historic Places in the Florida Study Area stretch of almost 1 foot also cost ap- Date of proximately $691.00. Name of Feature Location Designation The advent of rail to the region stimu- lated the industrial economy of the larger Hoosac Tunnel* River Road 11/2/73 towns, particularly North Adams. With Mohawk Trail* Rt. 2 in Charlemont, ease of transport increased, large indus- Savoy and Florida 4/3/73 tries developed in the surrounding areas, * NRIND Also see Appendix 5I particularly textile mills. The population

CHAPTER 5: Archaeological and Historic Resources 79 Many settlers from Rhode Island with textile experience in power looms moved to the town, aiding in the cre- ation of its industrial economy. Devel- opment, however, was slow because the town was cut off from the eastern portion of the state by the Hoosac Mountain Range and hampered by a lack of capital. In the late 1820’s the first cotton print mill was established and in 1846 the first rail line to Pittsfield was opened. Blast furnaces and shoes were manufactured in town and the Hoosac Tunnel, direct rail line between North Adams and Fitchburg, was begun in 1851 and completed in 1875 using the city as the headquarters for the tunnel operations. The Civil War stimulated the shoe and textile operations and handsome Greek Revival, Second Empire, and The Hoosac Tunnel lies 1000 feet Italianate homes remain as testimony to below the Byway in Florida. two stores, a gristmill, saw mill and a the fortunes that were made. The new brick school. The town also had Blackinton Mansion, an outstanding three powder mills that produced black example of Second Empire design, is gunpowder. The E.R. Tinker powder now the city library. The growth of the mill exploded in May of 1869, ending mills led to development of the city as a production of that product. regional commercial center in the Berk- shires. Residential neighborhoods be- North Adams gan climbing the hills about 1850 and The city center of North Adams devel- the city is now known for its decorated oped at the confluence of the north slate roofs and towers. Mill owners and south branches of the Hoosic built a large number of multi-family River. The river valleys were known to houses for their workers, who were be subject to flooding, so no large mainly immigrant French Canadians, farming community was developed in Italians and Irish. By the later 19th cen- the area, but the waterpower of the riv- tury, shoes and boots had grown to be ers was available for industry. In 1760, more significant to North Adam’s the Commonwealth sold the area to economy than textiles. The opening of three men if they would develop it. the Hoosac Tunnel in 1874 secured They did, establishing lumber mills North Adams as a major manufacturing exporting high quality pine boards, and distribution center. North Adams gristmills, a blacksmith shop, fulling State College was established in 1894 mill, cut nail makers, brickyards and and Sprague Electrical Works moved to textile mills. By the end of the 19th town in 1929. century, the mechanical advances of Due to the wealth created during the the industrial revolution and the arrival industrial revolution, the city is en- of the railroad transformed that village dowed with historic mills, residences, into what would become the most and churches that are rich in architec- populated city in Berkshire County. tural and historical detail. The Massa- chusetts Museum of Contemporary

80 MOHAWK TRAIL SCENIC BYWAY Art (MassMoCA) is located in a 24- southern end of the Visitor Center, acre mill complex that had been an ac- was the main center of operations. It tive and important industrial site since had a comfortable interior with a pot- 1862. Seven major historic churches, all belly stove, and was the gathering post-1860, were built within a block of place for news, gossip, or to complain Monument Square, which is located on about damaged freight. The Visitor the eastern end of Main Street. The Center, administered by the DEM, lofty steeples, most of them with slate houses a historic museum that focuses roofs intact, dominate the skyline, help- on the railroad era and the building of ing this city maintain its New England the Hoosac Tunnel. The museum is character. One of the most outstanding open year-round, seven days a week. collections of Victorian homes in Berk- Blackinton Historic District shire County can be found along The Blackinton Historic District listed in Church Street and in the Cady Hill the National Register of Historic Places neighborhood. Many of the buildings and the National Register Multiple Re- are listed on the National Register of source Area in 1985, contains 22 proper- Historic Places. ties. It includes the Blackinton Union There are several National Register Church and the original homes of mill Historic Districts and several more indi- workers built in 1840. These are some of vidual properties within the Corridor the earliest surviving structures in North Study Area. This plan discusses the His- Adams, with two of the mill owner’s toric Districts (which can be located on houses exhibiting the mixed Greek and the map on the following page) and lists Italianate features found in the distinctive the National Register properties within North Adams Style. Several row and mill one or two blocks of the Scenic Byway. houses survive, as well as the Blackinton As mentioned earlier in this chapter, Company Store, located next to the site there are simply too many individual his- of the mill. The area is located in the toric properties within the Study Area to northwest area of the city and bordered list at this time. Those found within a by Wood St. and Ashton, Massachusetts, block or two of the Byway can be found and Doanes Avenues. in Appendix 5J. Monument Square— Western Gateway Heritage State Eagle Street Historic District Park/Freight Yard Historic District Listed in the National Historic Regis- The six buildings that make up West- ter as an Historic District in 1988, the ern Gateway Heritage State Park were Monument Square- Eagle Street His- once part of a large rail distribution toric District is roughly bounded by system that connected Boston to the Halden, Center, and Union Streets, Albany area and ports out west. This and by East Middle, School, Summer, area was designated the Freight Yard and Main Streets. It has served as the Historic District and listed in the in core center for North Adams since the the National Register of Historic first settlement in the late 18th century Places in 1972. In general, the build- and today consists primarily of late ings were constructed between the 19th and 20th century buildings. This 1880’s and early 1890’s and were used area, along with the surrounding pre- for a variety of purposes. Some build- dominantly residential areas and the ings were built as receiving areas and Freight yard Historic District south- storage, some were used for distribut- west of Main St. comprise North ing goods to local businesses, and Adams Multiple Resource Area, a mix some were used for administrative of- of historic districts and individually fices. The Shippers Office, at the registered properties.

CHAPTER 5: Archaeological and Historic Resources 81 TABLE 5.6 National Register of Historic Places in the North Adams Study Area+

Date of Name of Feature Location Date Designation Armstrong House*^ 60 Brooklyn St 10/25/85 Arnold Print Works+^ 87 Marshall St. 1872 10/25/85 Beaver Mill* Beaver St. 1896 5/11/73 Blackinton Historic District** Bounded by Ashton Ave., Wood St., Mass. Ave., Doanes Ave. 10/25/85 Boardman, The*^ 39-53 Montana St. 1899–1901 10/25/85 Church Street Historic District** Bounded by E. Main St. from Church St., to Pleasant St., & Church St. from Sumner St. to Elmwood Ave. 3/10/83 Crowley House*^ 365 West Main St. 10/25/85 Freeman’s Grove Historic District** Bounded by Liberty, Hall & Eagle Sts., Brace Well Ave. & Houghton St. 10/25/85 Freight Yard Historic District** W. of Hadley Overpass & SW of Hoosic River 6/16/72 Hathaway Tenement*^ 311–321 River St. 1850 10/25/85 Hoosac Tunnel* West Portal Rd. 1855 11/2/73 Hillside Cemetery** Route 2 1798 2001 Johnson Manufacturing Company**^ 65 Brown St. 1872 10/25/85 Johnson School*^ School St. 10/25/85 Monument Square— Bounded by Halden, Center & Union St., Eagle St. Historic District** E. Middle, School, Summer & Main St. 6/19/72 8/25/88 Norad Mill*^ 60 Roberts Dr. 1863 10/25/85 North Adams Public Library— Blackinton Mansion*^Pr Monument Square 1865 10/8/87, 8/25/88 Phelps House*^ 1101 Massachusetts Ave. 1850 10/25/85 Sherman Farm* 1010 State Rd. c. 1825 10/6/83 Sherman Farm*^ 1072 State Rd. c. 1825 10/25/85 Sykes House*^ 521 West Main St. c. 1890 10/25/85 Wells House*^ 568 West Main St. 10/25/85 Windsor Print Works* Cliff & Union St. 5/17/73

* NRIND ** NRDIS ^ National Register Multiple Resource Area Pr Preservation Restriction + Please note that this is not a complete listing for the Study Area; a more complete listing is found in Appendix 5A.

Church Street—Cady Hill trict. The Cady Hill area, adjacent to the Historic District Church Street district, was combined Church Street is one of the oldest road- with it as an extended district. Though ways in the city, and as such was one of the development in this added area was the first to see major development. Many predominantly in the latter decades of the high-style Victorian mansions, as well as 19th century, the combination gives a co- impressive churches, are present in the herence and integrity to the entire dis- area. It was originally listed in the Na- trict, which contains 179 properties. tional Register in 1983 as an historic dis-

82 MOHAWK TRAIL SCENIC BYWAY CHAPTER 5: Archaeological and Historic Resources 83 Freeman’s Grove Historic District tural producers and led to the establish- This district is situated near the in- ment of larger local industries, especially dustrial center of the town and is sig- textiles in the 1870’s. nificant as a late 19th century housing Downtown Williamstown is dominated development undertaken during the by the presence of Williams College, with most important period of the city’s its 19th century academic buildings of history. The houses, mostly built in the stone and brick. The town and the college late 1800s, are mostly tenements and were named after Colonel Ephraim Will- duplexes built for the workers yet are iams, Jr. when he deeded much of his vast generally unaltered in character of the land holdings to establish the college, architectural design. It includes houses which opened to students in 1793. on Eagle and Hall Streets, as well as Like North Adams, Williamstown has Chase and Bracewell Avenues. a vast number of historic properties Normal School Historic District within the Corridor Study Area. The Registered both as an historic district properties found within one block of the and part of the Multiple Resource Area in Scenic Byway are found in Appendix 5K. 1985, the Normal School Historic Dis- There are four National Register His- trict lies primarily on both sides of toric Districts in the town, and the His- Church Street in the south end of the city. toric Commission has taken the initial This area represents an historically impor- steps to nominate a fifth Historic Dis- tant decade in the city’s history, including trict, the Village Green. In 1998 the town two remaining original buildings of the hired consultants to conduct a detailed State Normal School, now known as the inventory of the historic properties and Massachusetts College of Liberal Arts. the original town common in the down- town area and to prepare preliminary Hillside Cemetery documentation for nominating the area Situated on eighteen acres on the west- as a National Register Historic District. ern edge of the city of North Adams, Documentation of this work can be and bisected by the Byway Corridor, is found in Appendix 5K. the Hillside Cemetery. The northern section of the cemetery dates to 1798 Field Park and covers the hillside to the north of Considered to be the western terminus the Byway, with only turf paths covering of the Scenic Byway, Field Park is the the hillside. The southern portion of the remnant of the town green that once ran cemetery dates to 1858 and comple- the length of what is now Main Street ments and contrasts the original section and originally served as a common graz- while similarly covering the prominent ing area. The park was created in 1878 by hillside. This area was listed in the na- Cyrus W. Field and the Village Improve- tional Historic Register in May of 2001. ment Society, and owes much of its lin- ear, park-like design to Field’s earnest Williamstown efforts, including the removal of picket Williamstown was incorporated in 1765. fences around each property. It began primarily as an agricultural The park, bounded by Routes 2 and 7, community with a few gristmills and saw is the site of the first and second Congre- mills located along the Hoosic River and gational meetinghouses and is directly its tributaries. Dairy farming became im- opposite the Fort Hoosac Monument portant in the early 19th century and was placed in front of the Williams Inn. One followed by the raising of sheep in the of the most striking features of Field Park later part of the century. The introduc- is the “Regulation House” placed there in tion of the railroad in 1858 provided 1953 in celebration of the Williamstown’s transportation to markets for agricul- Bicentennial. Over one hundred volun-

84 MOHAWK TRAIL SCENIC BYWAY teers donated both time and materials to TABLE 5.7 construct the house from local materials, National Register of Historic Places in the Williamstown Study Area+ by hand, in the original fashion. It was Date of moved approximately 40 feet to the west Name of Feature Location Designation in 1996 to its present location. The Park lies at the western end of Burbank, Sherman 605 Main St. 3/6/98, 5/12/99, Memorial Chapel*Pr 9/14/00, 3/6/01 the town common, which was laid out in 1750. This town common, a spec- Eastlawn Cemetery* East Main St. 9/14/00 tacular visual and historic roadway, de- Simonds, Col. Benjamin House* 643 Simonds Rd. 9/1/83 serves special recognition for its US Post Office—Main Branch* 63 Spring St. 7/17/86 overall contribution to the character of the downtown area. The Williamstown * NRIND Historical Commission is greatly in- Pr Preservation Restriction + Please note that this is not a complete listing for the Study Area; a more complete terested in designating the Town com- inventory is found in Appendix 5A. mon as a National Register Landscape. In 1998 the Commission retained Bonnie Parsons and Marla Miller of TABLE 5.8 Planning Commission Historic Markers found along the Mohawk Trail to conduct historic research on the common as a preliminary step toards Community Name of Marker Location attaining National Register status. Charlemont Hail to the Sunrise Mohawk Park This work revealed that Williamstown Florida Elk on the Trail Whitcomb Summit is unlike other New England town lin- North Adams North Adams Iron Works Northwest Main Street ear street villages in that its common Soldiers Monument Monument Square land is located along both sides of its main thoroughfare. This is outside the WW II Honor Roll Church Street norm of setting aside common land as Williamstown Site of Fort Hoosac West Main St. a median area between parallel streets, near Field Park as in Hadley Center, or setting it aside Haystack Monument Williams College in an outlying section of town, as in many towns. Laid out at fifteen rods in width — its nition is especially timely. The MHC 247.5 feet is more than double the and the National Trust for Historic width of most other Main Streets — it Preservation are possible funding was nearly forty acres in size. As a re- sources to help the town defray the sult, the buildings are set back from cost of this pursuit (see the Resources the road, providing continuous open Available for Historic Preservation space on either side. In the latter part below). of the 19th century, town benefactor The Mill Village Historic District Cyrus Field spearheaded and financed The Mill Village District is located on the movement to plant and maintain Cole Avenue and Mill, Arnold and Elm expansive lawns and create the present Streets. It was listed in the National Reg- “park-like” effect of the Main Street ister of Historic Places in 1983. The dis- area. trict contains 43 properties, including a The interest to recognize and pro- three-story brick cotton mill built in 1866 tect this spectacular common is also on the Hoosic River. Called the expressed in the Draft Master Plan for Williamstown Manufacturing Company, the Town of Willianstown, which is the mill was known locally as the Station currently being developed. As the Mill because of its proximity to the rail town approaches its 250th anniversary, yard, it was in use as a textile mill until the pursuit of National Register recog-

CHAPTER 5: Archaeological and Historic Resources 85 1931 when it was converted to the manu- textile companies from Berkshire County facture of photographic paper. In addition during the latter part of the 20th century to the mill, there are 24 Greek revival style led to changes in use and, in some cases, double tenement houses that were built abandonment of old mill buildings. In the along with a store, church and a school Berkshires, as in other parts of the coun- for the influx of French Canadian immi- try, there is renewed interest in preserving grants who came to work in the mill. these historic buildings. Efforts to redevelop these mills are Williamstown Rail Yard of interest to the Hoosic River Water- & Station Historic District shed Association (HooRWA) for a Located at the junction of Cole Avenue number of reasons. Mill properties on and North Hoosac Road, the six proper- or near the river are often historic and ties included in this district were listed in aesthetic assets, but at the same time the National Register of Historic Places can pose a potential threat to the river in 1994. The district, dominated by the because of possible brownfield prob- stone masonry station on the Boston lems. Their redevelopment has the po- and Maine main line, was built in 1898 to tential to benefit the economy and replace a previous wooden structure. It environment of northern Berkshire was the only masonry station on the line communities. Once environmental and its adjacent rail yard just to the hazards are removed, space is made northwest was one of the busiest on the available for businesses or residences, line, with freights being laid up for travel and the pressure to develop precious through the recently opened Hoosac open space is diminished. Tunnel to the east. By 1753 the first ‘road’ to cross the Conducting the Inventory Hoosac Mountain barrier was known As part of a “Communities Connected by to be in use by colonial settlers. Prior to Water” grant from the Massachusetts Ex- this time it was a foot trail only, in use ecutive Office of Environmental Affairs, as a travel corridor and trade route be- HooRWA contracted with the Center for tween the Hudson River and Connecti- Ecological Technology (CET) to conduct cut River valleys for approximately an inventory of historic mills along the 10,000 years. The existing Route 2 car- Hoosic River to learn about their current ries on this heritage through its auto status and potential for redevelopment. tourism history and the many unique CET, together with HooRWA and the shops, inns and villages that line its Berkshire Regional Planning Commission path. Historic Markers along the By- (BRPC), began their study in October way remind us of that history. 1999 with the assumption that many of the mills were vacant. Their initial goal was to identify strategies for adaptive reuse. During the winter and spring of 2000, Historic Mills along CET and BRPC gathered information the Hoosic River about the current use, ownership status, zoning designation, infrastructure, sur- Historically the Hoosic River, which rounding land use, possible eligibility for winds its way through Cheshire, Adams, historic designation, and outstanding North Adams, Clarksburg and characteristics of approximately 30 mills. Williamstown, served as a critical source Sources of information included surveys of power for dozens of mills. The major- (see Appendix 5L) of historic buildings ity of the mills that are located along the completed by local historical commis- Hoosic were built between 1850 and sions, town and city assessors offices, 1900, and employed thousands in textile water departments and wastewater treat- and related industries. The departure of

86 MOHAWK TRAIL SCENIC BYWAY ment plant operators, local historians, in- greatest challenges is keeping a sound terviews with mill owners and managers, roof on a building with a footprint in media accounts of current developments, excess of 100,000 square feet. and feasibility studies conducted during Zoning and Surrounding Land Use the past 20 or more years. Most of the mills are zoned for indus- CET staff visited each mill to photo- trial use. However, in many instances graph the building exteriors, and obtain the dominant land use surrounding the a general appraisal of building condi- mills is commercial and residential, and tion. Locations of each mill were the mill itself is the only industrial mapped using GIS, and building infor- building in the neighborhood. There mation was entered into a database. The may be instances where it would be complete list of Hoosic River Historic beneficial to seek zoning designations Mills is found in Appendix 5L. that allow a wider range of redevelop- Occupancy and Current Use ment options, such as a mix of retail Of the thirty mills identified along the and residential space. Hoosic River, all but two are partially or Historic Designation fully occupied. Mill owners generally ex- A limited number of mills along the pressed a strong commitment to con- Hoosic River are listed on the Na- tinuing and expanding the use of their tional Register of Historic Places and/ mill buildings. Businesses that occupy or are part of a historic district. The the mills are extremely diverse and in- majority of mills were built in the 19th clude manufacturers of specialty papers; century. Listing on the State and Na- cultivation of mushrooms; a contempo- tional Register could open up funding rary art museum and performing arts opportunities for mill redevelopment center; commercial linen supply; finan- and preservation. All buildings in- cial consulting services; appliance sales cluded in the study are considered and service; self-storage companies; a “historic” under the River Protection church; electrical and mechanical con- Act and are exempt from riverfront tractors and supply; residential units; area restrictions but not from wetlands medical offices; art gallery and space for or floodplain regulation. artisans; internet companies; incubator business space; wholesale distributors; Infrastructure and a variety of other office, retail, com- All mills have access to water and sewer. mercial and industrial space. The wastewater treatment plant serving Williamstown and North Adams is at Condition capacity, but is not considered a limiting The quality of the mill structure is factor when planning enhanced use of among the most important elements existing buildings. There are some in- to be taken into account in planning a stances where available parking could redevelopment strategy. The physical be a limiting factor in determining rede- condition of mill buildings in the study velopment strategies. Two mill owners ranges from excellent to very poor, and expressed interest in redeveloping hy- the majority of buildings appear to be droelectric capacity at their sites. in fair to good condition. Due to lim- ited time and resources, the project staff have been unable to assess the structural soundness of mill buildings or determine compliance with regula- tions such as the Americans with Dis- abilities Act and OSHA standards. Mill owners noted that one of their

CHAPTER 5: Archaeological and Historic Resources 87 Panoramic postcard of the Consequently, the Byway remains Hairpin Turn c. 1921. Photo rich in historic structures that were con- courtesy of Wayne Caneday. Auto Tourism and structed for tourism. Arthur Krim, an the Mohawk Trail historian and consultant, completed a preliminary inventory and report of Perhaps the most famous period of these structures, Mohawk Trail Early history for the Scenic Byway is that of Automobile Corridor Preliminary Sur- the Automobile Touring Era. The vey Plan, for the Massachusetts Histori- Mohawk Trail has been in use for cal Commission in 2001. This inventory wheeled transportation since 1753, and focused primarily on the section of the as a foot trail for much longer, but it Byway between Greenfield and Florida, was the invention and wide availability only lightly touching the sections in of the modern automobile that the North Adams and Williamstown. In this most profound changes were wrought, report, the roadway features, statutes and the Mohawk Trail emerged as a and architecture was classified into three popular auto touring route during the historic periods: 1) Early Auto Period early 20th century. (1914-1920), 2) Auto Tourism Period (1921-1941) and 3) Modern Highway Period (1942-1965). Construction of the new roadway was begun during the summer of 1912 with an initial $75,000 appropriated by the legislature. The location of the ex- isting Mohawk Trail was altered some- what, ascending from the east via the Cold River Gorge instead of following the original Stagecoach Road up the Deerfield River valley and thence up the sheer side of Hoosac Mountain. This route is seven mile longer, but of- fers a less steep slope. Solid ledge was blasted with dynamite, hewn by hand, and hauled away by horse and cart. The roadway was paved with crushed stone (graded gravel) taken from the original excavation of the Central Roadside stone walls were dismantled for the original roadbed of the Shaft for the Hoosac Tunnel, spread Mohawk Trail in Florida. Photo courtesy of Mr. & Mrs. Stanley Brown. with a layer of oil on top. Wooden rail-

88 MOHAWK TRAIL SCENIC BYWAY Brown’s Garage, in Florida, c. 1923, 1945, 1999 Photos courtesy of Stanley Brown.

ings and rock cribs were constructed along the slopes, with many of the rocks being taken directly from stone- walls of the surrounding area. This helps to explain why there are no stonewalls, typical along many New England roadsides, along the Scenic Byway (Brown 2001). This section of the Scenic Mohawk Trail extended from the Deerfield River in Charlemont, up and over the Eastern Summit and to Whitcomb’s Summit in Florida, across the upland to the Western Summit, and then down and around the Hairpin Turn to the base of Hoosac Mountain in North Adams to the west. A concrete bridge was constructed over the Deerfield River and two massive rock cuts were engineered, one through the Cold River Canyon in Florida, the other at the Hairpin Turn in Clarksburg/North Adams. The first car to drive over the new road did so on June 5, 1914. It was owned and driven by Charles Canedy, a local photog- rapher for The Transcript and a Mohawk Trail entrepreneur. The completed high- way was officially dedicated at a cer- emony at Whitcomb Summit on October 22, 1914 with a crowd of approximately 1,800 people in attendance. This crowd proved to be only a fraction of the highway’s users. By October 1915, the following year, there was an estimated 350 cars traveling the highway every hour at the peak of the tourist season (Brown 2001). The section of the road from Charlemont to Greenfield primarily fol- lowed the old trail, but improvements to the area between Greenfield Mountain and Shelburne included the opening of a concrete cement highway in 1921.

CHAPTER 5: Archaeological and Historic Resources 89 The period from 1914 to 1920, was ber of photographs and articles about defined as the Early Auto Period by the Mohawk Trail, as well as providing Arthur Krim. The beginnings of a tour- invaluable first hand knowledge of the ist trade that flourishes today began in road and its character. The family busi- these early years. The opening of ness, like many along the Byway, Charles Canedy’s “ The Summit evolved during the Auto Touring era, House” in 1914, a small shop at the as can be seen in the photographs on highest point along the Mohawk Trail at the previous page. Whitcomb’s Summit, began this trend. The high traffic volumes took a heavy Here Canedy sold banners, postcards, toll on the condition of the road, and by popcorn, and picture books (from his the late 1920’s it was badly in need of re- own photography) very successfully. pair, being described in the North Soon thereafter he opened an additional Adams Transcript as an “…old hardpan shop at the Hairpin Turn to the west, road, with rough and irregular gravel and and within 4 years he had rebuilt the cold oil surface…. a narrow, sinuous, shop at the Whitcomb Summit, replac- winding, slimy-surfaced highway, bad to ing the original structure with a shop of travel in bad weather, and none too good 15’ x 30’. He also erected a few over- in good weather.” Reconstruction began night cabins for his regular customers at in 1927 with the straight areas being wid- both Whitcomb Summit and the West- ened to twenty-four feet, the curves wid- ern Summit. It was Canedy’s belief that ened to thirty feet, and a new paved these were Summit and was followed by surface of the most modern bituminous the 1932 dedication in Mohawk Park of material available, all for a mere one mil- the statue “Hail to the Sunrise”. lion dollars (Marino 1998). The rededi- During the development of this cation and grand opening ceremony on Corridor Management Plan, Stanley September 28, 1929 was once again held Brown, lifelong resident of Florida, at the Whitcomb Summit, a gala event third generation business owner and hosted by Former State Senator George local Historic Commissioner, pro- Hastings and drawing several thousand vided BRPC and FRCOG with a num- more people than the original opening 15 years earlier. Although the Great Depression of the 1930s affected tourism, several motel cabin complexes were constructed or expanded in the 1930s. Those that still exist today are in Shelburne Center, East Charlemont, Mohawk Park (Charlemont), and at the Whitcomb and Western Summits. Also related are the original log cabins built at Mohawk State Park between 1935-1936 by the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC). Also listed as constructed in the 1930’s was a souvenir shop at the Indian Plaza in Charlemont and the Shelburne Country Store. In Williamstown, the Howard Johnson’s restaurant, now remodeled as a bank, still retains it original 1938 weathervane in the Pie-man form. Addi- tionally, many small farm and souvenir stands sprang up along the corridor as seen A historic view of the Trail. in the documentary photos.

90 MOHAWK TRAIL SCENIC BYWAY Opening the Trail with shovels, 1926. Photos courtesty of Stanley Brown.

Routine maintenance of the road during to three days. It was not until the late the early years was the responsibility of the 1930’s or early 1940’s that the state took towns. Winter maintenance was difficult at control of the regular maintenance, and it best. Locals generally completed the snow was yet another few years before trucks removal shoveling the road by hand. This with plow attachments were used rou- was a particular problem on the steep sec- tinely (Brown 2002). tion from Florida to the Western Summit, Even with the difficulties of keeping where the plow from North Adams the roads clear in the winter, there was stopped. Due to the severe conditions, the other activity along the Byway. Downhill road was often closed for several days or skiing was starting to take hold, especially weeks. However, by 1930, Florida had pur- with the advent of the rope tow. In the chased a tractor-crawler for snow removal, early 1930’s, Donald Canedy built the bringing snow removal time to a mere two area’s first rope tow and Mohawk Trail

CHAPTER 5: Archaeological and Historic Resources 91 Hill began operation in Florida, only to ing Howard Johnson’s Restaurant in close because of the beginning of World Massachusetts with its original 1938 War I. It never reopened due to costs as- neon sign until it was torn down in June sociated to upgrade the facility. Also, a 2002), the Duck Pond and Gould’s severe hurricane in September 1938 was Sugar House in Shelburne, the Golden responsible for a fire that demolished the Eagle in Clarksburg at the Hairpin Turn, two-story building at Whitcomb Summit. and the Friendly’s in North Adams. Un- Resultant heavy flooding caused exten- fortunately, the Howard Johnson’s Res- sive landslides on the roadway east of taurant in Greenfield was closed and Whitcomb’s Summit, effectively closing demolished in June 2002. the road for the better part of the follow- Mr. Krim identified 44 properties as ing winter. The building was restored as a significant to the auto touring era and single story structure, however it did not recommended that the communities fully operate again until after the Second work to complete Mass. Historical In- World War. ventory Forms for each. In addition, he According to Krim, the buildings recommended that detailed research be constructed during the Modern High- conducted for 10 of those, as he feels way Period of 1941-1965 included the they are eligible for National Register Mohawk Trading Post in Shelburne consideration. These properties are in- (1952), the Big Indian Shop in cluded in Table 5.9. The complete list of Charlemont (1954), the Lookout Tower properties he surveyed is included in at Greenfield (1952), and the former Appendix 5M. Other may well be eli- Lookout Tower base at Whitcomb’s gible, and it is understood that several Summit in Florida (1952). Other build- structures in the North Adams and A Historic Postcard of the ings from this period included several Williamstown area have not been exam- Sweetheart Restaurant the following restaurants: the Howard ined for significance to the Auto Tour- in Shelburne. Johnson’s in Greenfield (the last operat- ing Eras. Both of these areas may hold

92 MOHAWK TRAIL SCENIC BYWAY extensive resources, particularly for the Auto Touring Era along the Byway are Modern Highway Period. deteriorating from a lack of general Mr. Krim identified a number of his- maintenance and are no longer eco- toric resources of importance to these nomically viable. Unfortunately, there periods, but also recommends that a are few preservation programs that more intensive survey be conducted in provide financial assistance to private order to determine the exact dates of for-profit property owners. Therefore, construction, original architects, and local communities should actively builders of several of the cabin com- work with private owners of Auto plexes from the Early Auto Period, and Touring Era properties to identify Auto Tourist period. He also recom- ways to help them meet the financial mends ascertainment of files from the demands of maintaining or restoring Massachusetts Highway Department for these historic properties. After all, the the original construction engineering of community as a whole benefits from the Mohawk Trail, especially the 1914 the existence and success of these road cuts in the Cold River Gorge and properties as tourist businesses. Local Hairpin Turn and the use of concrete historical commissions could actively guard rails for original sections of road- work with private owners to identify bed in Shelburne and North Adams, ways to meet the financial demands of some of the earliest surviving sections of maintaining or restoring historic prop- the Mohawk Trail (Krim 2001). erties. At this time, the only financial As a follow-up recommendation, Mr. incentive to rehabilitate commercial Krim suggests that the next phase of historic properties is the Federal Tax study for the Mohawk Trail Corridor, Credit, which is described below. should consider Auto Touring Era prop- There is a local tax abatement program erties to the east and west of the bound- that is available in Massachusetts, but aries of this study. He suggests extending only residential properties are eligible. the area of study to include the Route 2 in Erving, and along Route 2A in down- town Greenfield as there are several Auto Tourism filling stations and souvenir Resources Available shops in that area. Inclusion of several for Historic Modern Highway period structures in along Main Street in Williamstown is pos- Preservation sible if the termination date of 1965 for this period is extended to 1970 or even Local and State 1975. Additionally, there are some Early Informational Resources Auto period garages and motels in Local historic commissions can pro- Greenfield, North Adams, and vide important support and assistance Williamstown that were not considered in to willing private property owners. the preliminary survey. Expanding the re- Local historic commissions can spon- gional and temporal boundaries of the sor a specially designed training pro- Mohawk Trail Survey would likely involve gram for private property owners an additional 15-30 properties of potential educating them about preservation op- historic significance to the Mohawk Trail tions. In addition the MHC currently Early Automobile Corridor (Krim, conducts a program called “On the 2001). Road,” which is an educational pro- The work required to maintain and gram where knowledgeable staff visits restore historic properties inevitably the local communities and provides falls to individual property owners. A hands-on information on historic number of historic properties from the preservation. The meetings are usually

CHAPTER 5: Archaeological and Historic Resources 93 informal, with much of the time de- setts. Local historic districts can be voted to answering questions that are credited with saving numerous historic of interest to the local communities. communities from inappropriate alter- ation and demolition. National or State Historic In a local historic district, any pro- Register Listing posed changes to exterior architectural The National Register of Historic features visible from a public way are re- viewed by a locally appointed Historic Places is a listing of buildings, struc- tures, sites, objects and districts sig- District Commission. For instance, if a nificant in out nation’s history, culture, building addition was proposed in a local historic district, the property owner architecture or archeology and that are worthy of preservation. It is a federal would submit an application to the His- designation, administered by the Sec- toric District Commission. The His- toric District Commission would hold a retary of the Interior through the Mas- sachusetts Historical Commission as public hearing and make a determination the State Historic Preservation office. on whether the new addition was appro- priate. If the addition was appropriate, Listing in the National register pro- vides formal recognition of the the Historic District Commission property’s significance, tax incentives would issue a Certificate, allowing the work to progress. Many Historic Dis- for owners of income producing prop- erty and limited protection from feder- trict Commissions have prepared His- ally funded, licensed or assisted toric District Design Guidelines that clarify how proposed projects should projects. A listing on the National Register can provide some exemptions respect the existing historic character. from the state building code. A Na- In a local historic district, there is no review of interior features. In ad- tional Register listing does not limit the owner’s use of the property. dition, a variety of exterior features are often exempt such as air conditioning Local Historic Districts units, storm doors, storm windows, paint color and temporary structures. A local historic district can be created The decision on which features are ex- to preserve significant historic struc- empt from review depends on how the tures and to encourage the builders of local bylaw is written. new structures to choose architectural According to M.G.L. Chapter 40C, designs, which complement the historic the first step in the creation of a local setting. A local historic district requires historic district is the appointment of review by a historic district commission a Local Historic District Study Com- of any exterior alteration to buildings mittee by the Board of Selectmen. The and structures visible from the public basic steps of creating a local historic way. Although historic districts can be district are outlined in the flow chart controversial, they are not unduly bur- on the opposite side. For a list of local densome considering the level of secu- historic districts in Massachusetts, rity provided to all of the residents and contact the Massachusetts Historical property owners in the area. Commission for a copy of Preser- Local Historic Districts offer the vation through Bylaws and Ordinances. strongest form of protection for the Note that there is a big difference preservation of historic structures. The between a National Register District first local historic districts in Massa- and a Local Historic District. For a chusetts were established on Nan- brochure entitled “There’s a Differ- tucket and Beacon Hill in 1955. Since ence” contact the Massachusetts His- then, over 220 local historic districts torical Commission. have been established in Massachu- 94 MOHAWK TRAIL SCENIC BYWAY Corridor Protection resource inventories, nominations of Overlay District properties to the National Register, completion of community-wide preserva- Corridor protection bylaws offer an- tion plans, public relations brochures and other method of protecting a transpor- other innovative planning projects. tation corridor from inappropriate The Mohawk Trail Early Automobile development. These bylaws are often Corridor Preliminary Survey Plan pro- implemented as an overlay district. vides a comprehensive sequence of Preservation Restrictions event that took place during the devel- opment of the highway. The report also Since a local historic district only as- identified the most significant surviving sists in the preservation of exterior fea- historic features from the Auto Tour- tures visible from the public way, a ism Era from 1914 to 1965. The rela- community may want to work with tively small number of properties listed the owner on implementing a preser- in the final recommendation for further vation restriction. A preservation re- survey indicates that more in depth sur- striction is a legal agreement between a vey and recognizance work for the property owner and another party, Mohawk Trail Early Automobile Corri- usually a non-profit organization or dor could be completed with a relatively government body. Such an agreement modest budget. Further research and “runs with the land” governing the use reporting could be conducted in order of the property by current and future to complete the Massachusetts Histori- owners. For the owner of a National cal Commission’s inventory standards. Register listed property, a preservation The MHC Survey and Planning Grant restriction may qualify as a charitable program would be an appropriate fund- tax deduction. It also may reduce the ing source to conduct such an inven- assess value of the property, resulting tory and prepare National Register in property tax savings. For the com- nomination documentation. munity, the preservation restriction is a The second MHC program, the very effective method of preserving Massachusetts Preservation Projects the structure both inside and out as Fund, provides 50 percent matching MAJOR FINDING well as the setting. grants to qualifying properties listed on The history and the State Register to ensure their physi- architecture of Grant Funding cal preservation. Monies are available The MHC sponsors two grant programs for the restoration, rehabilitation, stabi- the Auto Touring to help communities and nonprofit orga- lization, and documentation of historic Era has not been nizations conduct historic preservation and archaeological properties owned by adequately docu- projects. The first MHC program, Survey municipalities or nonprofit organiza- mented and and Planning Grants, provide 50 percent tions. A highlight of this unique pro- matching federal funds for the prepara- gram, the first of its kind in the nation, many buildings tion of community surveys, preservation is the option applicants have to apply are in danger of plans, preparation of historic district for up to 75 percent of the total project being lost studies and legislation, archaeological sur- cost if they are willing to commit an through neglect. veys, nominations to the National Regis- additional 25 percent toward an endow- ter, and educational preservation ment fund for long-range preservation programs. Eligible applicants are local his- and maintenance of the property. torical commissions, Certified Local Scopes of work for projects range from Governments, local and state agencies, the acquisition of an endangered prop- educational institutions, and private orga- erty, to the restoration of an historic nizations. Projects eligible for this fund- building, to research projects such as ing include completion of cultural historic structures reports, archaeologi-

CHAPTER 5: Archaeological and Historic Resources 95 $25,000 in matching funds, though TABLE 5.9 awards are usually $5,000 to $8,000. Auto Touring Era Properties Recommended for National Register The only grant programs that offer Consideration (Krim 2001) assistance to private for-profit owners are the Cynthia Woods Mitchell Fund Resource Town Date Period and the Jahanna Favrot Fund, and then Whitcomb Summit Cabins Florida c. 1925 Early Auto it is open only to owners of National Cabins at the Wigwam Historic Landmarks, none of which at the Western Summit North Adams c. 1916/1930 Early Auto exist along the Scenic Byway. Indian Plaza Charlemont c. 1930 Auto Tourist “Hail to the Sunrise” Statue Charlemont 1932 Auto Tourist Federal Credits This is the only financial assistance Mohawk Park Cabins Charlemont c. 1930 Auto Tourist available to both residential and com- Whitcomb Summit Complex Florida c. 1915–1955 Auto Tourist mercial private property owners. The Longview Gift Shop Greenfield 1922 Auto Tourist Under the Federal Rehabilitation Tax Wigwam Gift Shop North Adams c. 1924 Auto Tourist Incentive Program, owners of prop- Sweetheart Tea House Shelburne c. 1922 Auto Tourist erty that are listed on the National Register or are within a National Reg- Former Howard Johnson Williamstown 1938 Auto Tourist ister Historic District may deduct 20% of the cost of a major restoration Source: Mohawk Trail Early Automobile Corridor preliminary Survey Plan, completed by Arthur Krim for the Massachusetts Historical Commission, September 2001. project on their taxes. Restoration must be significant, exceeding the greater of the adjusted basis of the cal data recovery projects, or study of buildings or $5,000, and work can be innovative preservation techniques. phased over a five-year period when Unfortunately, the state has not funded there are architect’s drawing and speci- this program for the last two years. fication prepared for the work. Resto- The National Trust for Historic ration work must follow the Secretary Preservation offers financial assistance of the Interior’s Standards. The pro- to communities and nonprofit organi- gram is administered through the Mas- zations to conduct a variety of historic sachusetts Historical Commission projects. The Preservation Services (MHC). Currently, none of the pri- Fund provides matching grants of up to vately-owned tourist businesses of the $5,000 (typically from $1,000 to Auto Touring Eras are listed on the $5,000) for preservation planning and National Register, but Krim has identi- education efforts. Funds may be used fied several properties that are likely to obtain professional expertise in areas candidates for nomination. Once such as architecture, engineering, pres- again, the MHC Survey and Planning ervation planning. land use planning, Grant program would be a likely fund- fund raising, organization development ing source to proceed with several and law as well as preservation educa- nominations. A 10% tax credit is also tion activities. The Cynthia Woods available for buildings that are not Mitchell Fund for Historic Interiors listed in the National Register but offers up to $10,000 for consultants were built before 1936. with expertise in the preservation field to plan, conduct architectural research Local Option Property Tax and material investigation. The Johanna Assessment program Favrot Fund for Historic Preservation In 1996 the state legislature enabled lo- provides up to $10,000 for professional advice, conferences, workshops and cal communities in the Common- education programs. It provides up to wealth to establish the Local Option

96 MOHAWK TRAIL SCENIC BYWAY Property Tax Assessment program. This provides tax savings to historic property homeowners who rehabili- tate their property according to appro- priate standards. Property taxes are abated by the community and phased back in over a five-year period. So far the only communities to enact the program are Chelmsford, Foxboro and Ludlow. MHC can be contacted for more information.

Deteriorating motel cabins at Whitcomb Summit, Florida

ISSUES AND RECOMMENDATIONS

Issues ■ None of the private properties from property owners maintain historic the Auto Touring Era are on the Na- structures and landscapes. ■ There are few locations along the By- tional Register of Historic Places. ■ Increase the number of informational way where the traveling public can ■ Many of the historic Auto Touring Era kiosks at strategic locations to make access historical information on the structures are in disrepair and not more historical information available Byway Corridor. designated for the public view. to the public. Several issues could be ■ There is little indication along the ma- ■ There are limited preservation pro- addressed in this manner, including jority of the Byway Corridor of the sig- grams available to help private, for- the following: nificance of the route as an historic profit business owners maintain or —Stressing the Native American sig- Native American travel and trade cor- restore their historic properties. A nificance of the Byway Corridor as ridor. concerted effort needs to be made to an important route. ■ There are several historically impor- assist private owners to secure grant —Historic information on the Auto tant locations along the Byway that funding, tax incentive and any other Tour Era as pertinent to specific lo- lack historic markers. Such locations financial benefits available. cations. include: the Hoosac Tunnel, located ■ The history of the Byway as an auto- ■ Install individual historic markers 1000 feet below the Mohawk Trail in touring route has not been compiled for specific locations could be Florida; the cemeteries in Charlemont in a comprehensive manner. placed for public benefit, particu- that have historically significance; ■ Many structures from the Auto Tour- larly along the following: (markers and other historically significant ing Era are in danger of being lost and signs should be of a uniform houses along the Byway. due to a lack of financial viability and nature to allow for consistency ■ Several historic mill structures do not the need for repairs. throughout the Byway Corridor) have any designation for the public —Salmon Falls in Shelburne Falls for view. the potholes and the cultural sig- ■ The natural (glacial potholes) and cul- Recommendations nificance. tural (extremely significant fishing ■ Communities should actively work —A marker on the Mohawk Trail in area for Native Americans and Euro- with individual property owners to de- Florida designating the location pean Settlers) elements of Shelburne termine significant historic structures where the Scenic Byway passes Falls/Salmon Falls area are not high- and develop plans to assist in their over the Hoosac Tunnel. lighted. restoration and/or preservation. —Historically significant cemeteries ■ Numerous bridges and historic struc- Sponsoring a MHC “On the Road” along the Byway. tures are not distinguished for easy workshop would be a logical first step ■ Install markers or signs for individual public reference. to identifying ways to help private structures of historic significance

CHAPTER 5: Archaeological and Historic Resources 97 along along the Corridor such as ■ Work with the towns of Shelburne and ■ Work to protect and preserve impor- bridges, houses, and cemeteries. Of Buckland to expand the Shelburne tant archeological sites along the By- particular importance are the two Falls Nation Historic District. way. large mills that the Corridor funnels ■ In follow-up to the Auto-Touring era ■ Encourage local historical commis- through on the eastern approach to architectural survey report completed sions to alert and educate property North Adams. This could be incorpo- by the Massachusetts Historical Com- owners to the federal tax credits that rated into a general upgrade of the mission, work with willing property are available for restoration work that Eastern Gateway approach to the city. owners to seek grant funding for sur- occurs on properties listed on the ■ Implement a plaque program along vey grant funding to complete the National Register of Historic Places. the Byway in order to recognize the National Register nomination pack- owners of historically significant By- ages for the properties recommended way structures and also to educate for listing. the public about the architectural re- sources along the corridor. ■ A local Historical Commissions (such as the town of Charlemont or Florida) could take the lead and sponsor an educational meeting to be conducted by the Massachusetts Historical Com- mission under their “On the Road” program. This meeting would be in- tended to provide information to the Byway communities about tools and methods for preserving their historic resources. The information would be specifically targeted to the Byway communities and particularly re- sources to properties that are privately owned. ■ Support the implementation of preser- vation restrictions or conservation re- striction on historically significant structures along the Byway. Work with willing land owners to permanently The Howard Johnson’s Restaurant in Greenfield was demolished protect important historic resources. in June 2002. The building had been recently recognized as the last ■ Assist Williamstown in the process of establishing a Town Common Na- remaining Howard Johnson in Massachusetts with its original tional Historic District. architecture as an auto-touring era architectural resource.

98 MOHAWK TRAIL SCENIC BYWAY