Transient Vogue: the Commodification and Spectacle of the Vagrant Other
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“Grunge Killed Glam Metal” Narrative by Holly Johnson
The Interplay of Authority, Masculinity, and Signification in the “Grunge Killed Glam Metal” Narrative by Holly Johnson A thesis submitted to the Faculty of Graduate and Postdoctoral Affairs in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Arts in Music and Culture Carleton University Ottawa, Ontario © 2014, Holly Johnson ii Abstract This thesis will deconstruct the "grunge killed '80s metal” narrative, to reveal the idealization by certain critics and musicians of that which is deemed to be authentic, honest, and natural subculture. The central theme is an analysis of the conflicting masculinities of glam metal and grunge music, and how these gender roles are developed and reproduced. I will also demonstrate how, although the idealized authentic subculture is positioned in opposition to the mainstream, it does not in actuality exist outside of the system of commercialism. The problematic nature of this idealization will be examined with regard to the layers of complexity involved in popular rock music genre evolution, involving the inevitable progression from a subculture to the mainstream that occurred with both glam metal and grunge. I will illustrate the ways in which the process of signification functions within rock music to construct masculinities and within subcultures to negotiate authenticity. iii Acknowledgements I would like to thank firstly my academic advisor Dr. William Echard for his continued patience with me during the thesis writing process and for his invaluable guidance. I also would like to send a big thank you to Dr. James Deaville, the head of Music and Culture program, who has given me much assistance along the way. -
Fashion Awards Preview
WWD A SUPPLEMENT TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY 2011 CFDA FASHION AWARDS PREVIEW 053111.CFDA.001.Cover.a;4.indd 1 5/23/11 12:47 PM marc jacobs stores worldwide helena bonham carter www.marcjacobs.com photographed by juergen teller marc jacobs stores worldwide helena bonham carter www.marcjacobs.com photographed by juergen teller NEW YORK LOS ANGELES BOSTON LAS VEGAS MIAMI DALLAS SAO PAULO LONDON PARIS SAINT TROPEZ BRUSSELS ANTWERPEN KNOKKE MADRID ATHENS ISTANBUL MOSCOW DUBAI HONG KONG BEIJING SHANGHAI MACAU JAKARTA KUALA LUMPUR SINGAPORE SEOUL TOKYO SYDNEY DVF.COM NEW YORK LOS ANGELES BOSTON LAS VEGAS MIAMI DALLAS SAO PAULO LONDON PARIS SAINT TROPEZ BRUSSELS ANTWERPEN KNOKKE MADRID ATHENS ISTANBUL MOSCOW DUBAI HONG KONG BEIJING SHANGHAI MACAU JAKARTA KUALA LUMPUR SINGAPORE SEOUL TOKYO SYDNEY DVF.COM IN CELEBRATION OF THE 10TH ANNIVERSARY OF SWAROVSKI’S SUPPORT OF THE CFDA FASHION AWARDS AVAILABLE EXCLUSIVELY THROUGH SWAROVSKI BOUTIQUES NEW YORK # LOS ANGELES COSTA MESA # CHICAGO # MIAMI # 1 800 426 3088 # WWW.ATELIERSWAROVSKI.COM BRAIDED BRACELET PHOTOGRAPHED BY MITCHELL FEINBERG IN CELEBRATION OF THE 10TH ANNIVERSARY OF SWAROVSKI’S SUPPORT OF THE CFDA FASHION AWARDS AVAILABLE EXCLUSIVELY THROUGH SWAROVSKI BOUTIQUES NEW YORK # LOS ANGELES COSTA MESA # CHICAGO # MIAMI # 1 800 426 3088 # WWW.ATELIERSWAROVSKI.COM BRAIDED BRACELET PHOTOGRAPHED BY MITCHELL FEINBERG WWD Published by Fairchild Fashion Group, a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc., 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017 EDITOR IN CHIEF ADVERTISING Edward Nardoza ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER, Melissa Mattiace ADVERTISING DIRECTOR, Pamela Firestone EXECUTIVE EDITOR, BEAUTY Pete Born PUBLISHER, BEAUTY INC, Alison Adler Matz EXECUTIVE EDITOR Bridget Foley SALES DEVELOPMENT DIRECTOR, Jennifer Marder EDITOR James Fallon ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER, INNERWEAR/LEGWEAR/TEXTILE, Joel Fertel MANAGING EDITOR Peter Sadera EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, INTERNATIONAL FASHION, Matt Rice MANAGING EDITOR, FASHION/SPECIAL REPORTS Dianne M. -
UNIVERSITY of ARTS in BELGRADE Center for Interdisciplinary Studies
UNIVERSITY OF ARTS IN BELGRADE Center for Interdisciplinary studies UNESCO Chair in Cultural Policy and Management Master thesis: Project on the Museum of Fashion Establishment - Following the Clothing as a Cultural Phenomenon in the Balkans since the 18th Century Projekat osnivanja Muzeja mode, koji prati modu odevanja kao kulturološki fenomen na području Balkana od 18. veka by: Selma Kronja Supervisor: Irina Subotić, PhD Belgrade, September 2008 TABLE OF CONTENTS 1. Abstract 3 2. Introduction 5 3. Historical roots of the fashion development in the Balkans since the 18 th century 8 3.1. Political and geographical situation in the Balkans since the 18 th century 8 3.2. Social and cultural events that influence the global and local trends in fashion 16 3.3. Historical developments and fashion history of the population since the 18 th century till today in the Balkans 33 4. Role of the Museum of Fashion in society 49 4.1. Didactic relevance of the Museum 51 4.2. Educational and scientific role of the Museum 53 4.3. Modern concept of the Museum 56 4.4. Museum of Fashion and the media 60 5. Importance of establishing the institution for studying the fashion in the region of Balkans 66 5.1. Museum of Fashion as a unique institution in the region of Balkans 66 6. Conclusion 72 7. Bibliography 75 8. Curriculum Vitae of the author 79 1 Iris, painted by Milena Pavlović Barilli, 1928 2 ABSTRACT The main idea of the Museum of Fashion is expressing the diversity in feminine clothing since the 18 th century till today, but also the fashion of man and children, and accessories. -
Coronavirus: U.S
Coronavirus: U.S. department stores could be in their 'last stages' https://www.cnbc.com/2020/09/01/coronavirus-us-department-stores-cou... Lauren Thomas A Nordstrom store in Irvine, California. Scott Mlyn | CNBC The coronavirus pandemic is shining a light on U.S. department stores’ dependence on selling fashion and their delay in adapting to today’s retail environment. Not only are a number filing for bankruptcy, but some, including the oldest in the nation, are liquidating entirely. One by one, the categories that have defined department stores for decades have been seized by other types of retailers. Big-box chains Walmart and Target have acquired the value shopper. Best Buy and Amazon reign in electronics. The likes of Home Goods and Wayfair have become top-of-mind destinations for home furnishings. And Williams-Sonoma has sealed a place for itself in kitchens, for its high-end appliances and cutlery. Fashion seemed to be the one stronghold department stores had left. For a while, that was enough. But not anymore. Apparel sales are in a free fall, dropping roughly 20% year over year in July, after suffering a 25% decline in June, according to the latest data from the Commerce Department. Clothing has been one of the hardest-hit categories in retail during the pandemic, with fewer people concerned about refreshing their wardrobes when they hardly ever venture to public places. And some simply aren’t able to spend on a new outfit like they used to, as millions of Americans are unemployed due to the crisis. “Too many U.S. -
NEW YORK, 650 5TH AVE @ 52ND ST BOSTON, COPLEY PLACE Fashion
NEW YORK, 650 5TH AVE @ 52ND ST BOSTON, COPLEY PLACE Fashion. Beauty. Business. DEC 2015 No. 2 FOLLOW US FOLLOW SHOP AT LANDSEND.COM AT SHOP ’Tis the Season! The fashion insider’s holiday gift guide, wish lists, books, retailer picks and party style. (And the time Salvador Dalí threw a mink- lined bathtub through Bonwit’s window.) WE BELIEVE IN YOU Edward Nardoza EDITOR IN CHIEF Pete Born EXECUTIVE EDITOR, BEAUTY Bridget Foley EXECUTIVE EDITOR James Fallon EDITOR Robb Rice GROUP DESIGN DIRECTOR ’Tis the Season! 46 To shine brightest in the evening, dress up with the John B. Fairchild most festive of accoutrements. 1927 — 2015 MANAGING EDITOR Peter Sadera MANAGING EDITOR, Dianne M. Pogoda Billy Reid’s bow tie, FASHION/SPECIAL REPORTS $125, billyreid.com EXECUTIVE EDITOR, EUROPE Miles Socha DEPUTY MANAGING EDITOR Evan Clark Ben Sherman’s leather NEWS DIRECTOR Lisa Lockwood hip flask gift set, $20, DEPUTY EDITOR, DATA AND ANALYSIS Arthur Zaczkiewicz Ben Sherman New SITTINGS DIRECTOR Alex Badia H SENIOR EDITOR, RETAIL David Moin York SENIOR EDITOR, SPECIAL PROJECTS, Arthur Friedman TEXTILES & TRADE Cartier’s Rotonde de SENIOR EDITOR, FINANCIAL Vicki M. Young Cartier Chronograph BUREAU CHIEF, LONDON Samantha Conti watch, $9,050, Cartier BUREAU CHIEF, MILAN Luisa Zargani BUREAU CHIEF, LOS ANGELES Marcy Medina stores ASIAN EDITOR Amanda Kaiser BUREAU CHIEF, WASHINGTON Kristi Ellis Brooks Brothers knot ASSOCIATE EDITOR Jenny B. Fine stud set, $325, Brooks SENIOR EDITOR, SPECIALTY RETAIL Sharon Edelson Brothers stores and E SENIOR PRESTIGE MARKET Julie Naughton BEAUTY EDITOR brooksbrothers.com. SENIOR FASHION FEATURES EDITOR Jessica Iredale ACCESSORIES MARKET DIRECTOR Roxanne Robinson FASHION MARKET DIRECTOR Mayte Allende EYE EDITOR Taylor Harris MEN’S SENIOR EDITOR Jean E. -
Body As Crisis
CHAPTER II It is monstrosity, not death, that is the counter- value to life Georges Canguilhem, Monstrosity and the Monstrous … In the middle, cadaverous, awful, lay the grey puddle in the courtyard … I came to the puddle. I could not cross it. Identity failed me Virginia Woolf, The Waves Frida Kahlo and Cindy Sherman both present the wounded flesh. But while Kahlo showed chronic pain as a result of tissue damage, Sherman’s art can be read as a symptom of pain, a reflection of a mental state. While Kahlo painted perpetual pain accompanying her all her life, Sherman shows pain as a structural instability, the blurring of the boundaries of stereotyped femininity. Like her own artistic persona, pain in Sherman’s work is de-individualized; it might just as well be the pain of an author, a model, a character or a viewer. Abandoning any claim on notions such as authorship or intentionality, Sherman disowns – but does not disembody – pain. Pain in Sherman’s art changes the body in the same way that emotional crisis watermarks the identity. Sherman never shows her characters as what is widely understood as idealized figures. Her art forms the counterpart to the American cult of the well-functioning, toned-down body, where any memory of pain had been erased. Pain denied elsewhere here becomes pain transformed into monstrosity, nausea, pathology, hysteria, and disguise. Sherman’s photographs force the viewer to acknowledge the amount of pain constituting the female subject. I am interested in the discursive exchange between feminist and psychoanalytic theories and visual images where Sherman’s art is concerned. -
Trend Hunter Custom Report
Fashion Trend Report for Cámara de Comercio de Bogotá Share-Forward Garb Style Cafe Livestreamed Fashion Luxe High-Performance Jan 31, 2019 - Copyright © Trend Hunter Inc. This report is for internal use within your company. Please do not distribute, publish or present outside your team. Brought to you by Trend Hunter, the world's most popular, largest trend network, fueled by more than 100,000 contributors and 2 billion views of data. We help creative innovators like you Find Better Ideas, Faster™ Highlights Featured Consumer Insights Share-Forward Garb Fashion's close relationship with social media integrates into apparel HoteLeisure Clothing lines take cues from the hospitality industry Livestreamed Fashion The fashion industry incorporates livestreamed content into its campaigns Luxe High-Performance High fashion sneakers evolve from mere aesthetics to high-function Style Cafe The worlds of fashion and food merge into same-store experiences Copyright ©. All Rights Reserved. Highlights Featured Clusters Top 100 Fashion Trends for 2019 From Unisex Leather Apparel to Waterproof Technical Outerwear Top 100 Jewelry Trends in 2018 From Bespoke Solid Diamond Rings to Empowering Jewelry Collections 64 Premium Leather Gifts From Cheeky Designer Wallets to Opulent Italian Tie Cases Featured Examples Branded Luxury Fashion Apps The Balmain App Connects to Younger Consumers and Offers AR Content Handmade Buffalo Leather Bags Jillanie is a Stunningly Elegant and Fashion-Forward Bag for Men Laminated Leather Luxe Shoes Maison Margiela's Retro Fit Sneakers Boast Shiny and Chunky Elements Copyright ©. All Rights Reserved. i. Consumer Insights High-Level Patterns & Examples Consumer Insights are the crown jewel of Trend Hunter. -
Marcas E Editoriais De Moda Em Diferentes Nichos De Revistas Especializadas
UNIVERSIDADE DA BEIRA INTERIOR Engenharia Marcas e Editoriais de Moda em Diferentes Nichos de Revistas Especializadas O caso Vogue, i-D e Dazed & Confused Joana Miguel Ramires Dissertação para obtenção do Grau de Mestre em Design de Moda (2º ciclo de estudos) Orientador: Prof. Doutora Maria Madalena Rocha Pereira Covilhã, Outubro de 2012 Marcas e Editoriais de Moda em Diferentes Nichos de Revistas Especializadas II Marcas e Editoriais de Moda em Diferentes Nichos de Revistas Especializadas Agradecimentos Ao longo do percurso que resultou na realização deste trabalho, foram várias as pessoas que ajudaram a desenvolve-lo e que disponibilizaram o seu apoio e amizade. Desta forma, o primeiro agradecimento vai para a orientadora, Professora Doutora Maria Madalena Rocha Pereira, que desde o início foi incansável. Agradeço-lhe pela disponibilidade, compreensão, por me ter guiado da melhor forma por entre todas as dúvidas e problemas que foram surgindo, e por fim, pela força de vontade e entusiamo que me transmitiu. A todos os técnicos e colaboradores dos laboratórios e ateliês do departamento de engenharia têxtil da Universidade da Beira Interior agradeço o seu apoio e os ensinamentos transmitidos ao longo da minha vida académica. Agradeço em especial á D. Lucinda pela sua amizade, e pelo seu apoio constante ao longo destes anos. Às duas pessoas mais importantes da minha vida, pai e mãe agradeço do fundo do coração por todo o amor, carinho, compreensão, e por todos os sacrifícios que fizeram, de modo a me permitirem chegar ao final de mais esta etapa de estudos. Aos meus avós e restante família que também têm sido um pilar fundamental na minha vida a todos os níveis, os meus sinceros agradecimentos. -
The Independent Magazine September 2003 P. 6-10 Foreign
The Independent Magazine September 2003 p. 6-10 Foreign bodies Think Nineties grunge-chic, and you’re probably thinking of a Juergen Teller Image. But, as the photographer tells Sebastian Smee, while he’s still fascinated with the wilder shores of fashion, his work is moving ever closer to home. Portrait by Gautier Deblonde THIS ONE will take some explaining. The photographer Juergen Teller pauses for a good 10 seconds, then ruffles his hair. I have asked about the circumstances that gave rise to the somewhat surreal image you see above. The sprouting flora, I have already learnt, is not an overgrown hedge: it’s a resplendent version of the artist Jeff Koons’s most famous work. Puppy. Nor is that a discarded Barbie doll straddling one of its ears: it’s the American supermodel Stephanie Seymour. This, as it happens, is Seymour’s place in Connecticut: her freshly mown lawn, her Puppy, and — not far out of shot — her 100 horses, her two swimming pools, her world- class collection of haute couture, her collection of late 20th-century art... “I guess I met Stephanie around ‘94,” begins Teller. We are on the ground floor of his studio and home in London’s Ladbroke Grove. A table in the middle of the room is piled with prints of photographs. There is a scale model of a gallery on the floor, which Teller and his assistants are using to plan the hanging of his September exhibition at Milton Keynes Gallery; at the far end of the room is a doorway and stairs leading up (to his studio) and down (to his living quarters). -
This Is Not a Dissertation: (Neo)Neo-Bohemian Connections Walter Gainor Moore Purdue University
Purdue University Purdue e-Pubs Open Access Dissertations Theses and Dissertations 1-1-2015 This Is Not A Dissertation: (Neo)Neo-Bohemian Connections Walter Gainor Moore Purdue University Follow this and additional works at: https://docs.lib.purdue.edu/open_access_dissertations Recommended Citation Moore, Walter Gainor, "This Is Not A Dissertation: (Neo)Neo-Bohemian Connections" (2015). Open Access Dissertations. 1421. https://docs.lib.purdue.edu/open_access_dissertations/1421 This document has been made available through Purdue e-Pubs, a service of the Purdue University Libraries. Please contact [email protected] for additional information. Graduate School Form 30 Updated 1/15/2015 PURDUE UNIVERSITY GRADUATE SCHOOL Thesis/Dissertation Acceptance This is to certify that the thesis/dissertation prepared By Walter Gainor Moore Entitled THIS IS NOT A DISSERTATION. (NEO)NEO-BOHEMIAN CONNECTIONS For the degree of Doctor of Philosophy Is approved by the final examining committee: Lance A. Duerfahrd Chair Daniel Morris P. Ryan Schneider Rachel L. Einwohner To the best of my knowledge and as understood by the student in the Thesis/Dissertation Agreement, Publication Delay, and Certification Disclaimer (Graduate School Form 32), this thesis/dissertation adheres to the provisions of Purdue University’s “Policy of Integrity in Research” and the use of copyright material. Approved by Major Professor(s): Lance A. Duerfahrd Approved by: Aryvon Fouche 9/19/2015 Head of the Departmental Graduate Program Date THIS IS NOT A DISSERTATION. (NEO)NEO-BOHEMIAN CONNECTIONS A Dissertation Submitted to the Faculty of Purdue University by Walter Moore In Partial Fulfillment of the Requirements for the Degree of Doctor of Philosophy December 2015 Purdue University West Lafayette, Indiana ii ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS I would like to thank Lance, my advisor for this dissertation, for challenging me to do better; to work better—to be a stronger student. -
2019 Property Portfolio Simon Malls®
The Shops at Clearfork Denver Premium Outlets® The Colonnade Outlets at Sawgrass Mills® 2019 PROPERTY PORTFOLIO SIMON MALLS® LOCATION GLA IN SQ. FT. MAJOR RETAILERS CONTACTS PROPERTY NAME 2 THE SIMON EXPERIENCE WHERE BRANDS & COMMUNITIES COME TOGETHER SIMON MALLS® LOCATION GLA IN SQ. FT. MAJOR RETAILERS CONTACTS PROPERTY NAME 2 ABOUT SIMON Simon® is a global leader in retail real estate ownership, management, and development and an S&P 100 company (Simon Property Group, NYSE:SPG). Our industry-leading retail properties and investments across North America, Europe, and Asia provide shopping experiences for millions of consumers every day and generate billions in annual sales. For more information, visit simon.com. · Information as of 12/16/2019 3 SIMON MALLS® LOCATION GLA IN SQ. FT. MAJOR RETAILERS CONTACTS PROPERTY NAME More than real estate, we are a company of experiences. For our guests, we provide distinctive shopping, dining, and entertainment. For our retailers, we offer the unique opportunity to thrive in the best retail real estate in the best markets. From new projects and redevelopments to acquisitions and mergers, we are continuously evaluating our portfolio to enhance the Simon experience—places where people choose to shop and retailers want to be. 4 LOCATION GLA IN SQ. FT. MAJOR RETAILERS CONTACTS PROPERTY NAME WE DELIVER: SCALE A global leader in the ownership of premier shopping, dining, entertainment, and mixed-use destinations, including Simon Malls®, Simon Premium Outlets®, and The Mills® QUALITY Iconic, irreplaceable properties in great locations INVESTMENT Active portfolio management increases productivity and returns GROWTH Core business and strategic acquisitions drive performance EXPERIENCE Decades of expertise in development, ownership, and management That’s the advantage of leasing with Simon. -
Modern Painters March 2006 Let Me Entertain You Juergen Teller Takes
Modern Painters March 2006 Let Me Entertain You Juergen Teller takes centre stage By Vince Aletti IT'S HARD TO TAKE Juergen Teller seriously, but that's part of his appeal. Teller doesn't take himself too seriously either. He's a joker, a prankster, sometimes a buffoon. He became famous as a fashion photographer in the 1990s, when artists (including Corinne Day, Wolfgang Tillmans, Jack Pierson, Nan Goldin and Terry Richardson) and magazines (The Face, i-D, Dutch, Dazed & Confused, Index) that had little or no use for the genre's conventions were scrapping them and starting over from scratch. Mocking fashion's snobbism and superficiality, Teller and his fellow mavericks made work that was cheeky, funny, street smart and much more about the model's attitude than the clothes she wore. Or didn't wear. Teller's most notorious photos, from 1996, are of model Kristen McMenamy wearing nothing but jewellery; inside a crude lipstick heart drawn between her breasts is the name Versace, written in eyebrow pencil. Glamour survived these attempts to debunk it, but Teller had made his mark and established a reliably, often hilariously, perverse career in fashion photography that continues most conspicuously in his ad campaign for Marc Jacobs. There's scant evidence of that career in the Teller exhibition that opens at Fondation Cartier in Paris this month, where the nudity on display will be primarily his own. Titled Do You Know What I Mean, the show includes frankly autobiographical work, some of which was on view at New York's Lehmann Maupin Gallery in January, and finds Teller delving deeper into personal and national history.