Vol. 31 No. 4 2018

Kikkoman’s quarterly intercultural forum for the exchange of ideas on food

4 THE JAPANESE TABLE CLOSE-UP : Contemporary Ryori — Annual Events 5 JAPANESE STYLE: and Traditions Tai Sea Bream TASTY TRAVEL: Winter: From Harvest Fukushima Kozuyu — to 6 by Yoichiro Nakamura MORE ABOUT JAPANESE COOKING: Cod Yuki-mi Nabe “Snow-Viewing” Hot Pot with Cod Our series featuring the traditional celebratory foods Katsuo no Tatsuta Age associated with Japan’s old concludes Deep-Fried Bonito with this fi nal installment, where we follow harvest- — related events, Shichi-Go-San rites of passage, the winter solstice and fi nally, the anticipation of 8 another New Year. KIKKOMAN TODAY: KFE Celebrates 20 Years in the Netherlands Annual Events and Traditions Winter: From Harvest to New Year

From left: Gohei-; sekihan

Harvest Festivals onjiki, or “one hundred foods,” and festoons of tree branches are Annual events and traditions in are presented. Similar offerings traditionally sold at festivals Japan are linked to the ancient are made at other shrines held during the tenth or first cycle of growing rice. As autumn throughout Japan. lunar month. These are hung approaches, the rice blossoms, its The tenth month of the lunar with auspicious decorations that ears laden with tiny white calendar marks the beginning of symbolize prosperity and fl owers—and it is just at this time winter. The custom observed on happiness, such as oval-shaped that the Japanese archipelago the “Day of the Boar” of this gold coins and tai. This is also faces typhoon season. Hoping to month is to prepare botamochi the season for freshly harvested appease the wrath of the wind rice ball sweets of steamed non- . The vegetable is an gods, a special hand-twisted rice glutinous and that essential ingredient in many straw shimenawa rope was often are coated with a layer of family meals, appearing in hung at village entrances to fend auspicious adzuki bean paste. simmered dishes and vinegar off destructive winds. These are placed in a lacquered salads, and as pickles. During Once rice has been box and shared among neighbors, this season, rituals are held for successfully harvested, a custom that reaffirms purification against ill-fortune thanksgiving rituals are held. community bonds. and to express thanks for the Sheaves of freshly harvested rice harvest. At shrines, worshippers are offered, and other bounty is Ebisu Festival prepared for rites honoring local The twentieth day of the tenth guardian deities. To this day, the lunar month celebrates Ebisu, emperor himself makes offerings deity of good fortune, whose of newly harvested rice to the image is traditionally placed on a gods, partaking of new rice while shelf in a corner within the praying on behalf of his people. home. Ebisu is considered the This palace ritual is the patron of fishing and bountiful Niinamesai, celebrated nowadays harvests, but in urban areas, the as on god assures prosperity in November 23. At well-known business. Special offerings might shrines with long histories, include grilled tai sea bream and offerings presented to the gods vegetables, including daikon during harvest festivals take the radish. As the family gathers to form of foods as they have been share the celebration, sometimes prepared traditionally. For lots are drawn to choose which example, at Tanzan-Jinja Shrine offerings each person receives. in Nara Prefecture, copious Shrines dedicated to Ebisu are Tree branch decorated with an imitation gold coin offerings called hyakumi no found throughout the country, and other decorations

2 From left: Chitose-ame in a colorful bag; foods piled high on bowls are presented as hyakumi no onjiki offerings at Tanzan-Jinja Shrine.

are sprinkled with water shaken syrup, given in place of mother’s are placed in the bath, to from bunches of broadleaf milk, saved the lives of orphaned ward off disease. Even as the old bamboo dipped in a cauldron of infants, thus earning its year winds down, preparations hot water, in a purification reputation as being essential to for the New Year begin. The Izu ceremony called yudate. In children’s health and well-being. peninsula in Shizuoka Prefecture mountainous parts of central Another tradition observed late is renowned for its bonito, and at Japan, yudate involves rhythmic in the year honors tools that this time the fi sh are cleaned, dances dedicated to the gods. have become worn out during salted and hung in the wind to A traditional food prepared for the year. One such example is make salted bonito for use as these rituals is gohei-mochi, hari-kuyo, a ritual honoring offerings. This careful planning skewered cakes of pounded rice hard-working sewing needles of foods for the New Year takes basted with and grilled. that have become broken or place in other parts of the damaged. The spirits of needles country as well, and some Shichi-Go-San used for stitching fabrics are regions associate salmon or November 15 is set aside for “appeased” on this day by yellowtail with this special time. celebrating the healthy growth of passing them through soft As the year and its traditional children who have reached the or pliable konnyaku . observances come to a conclusion, ages of seven (shichi), five (go) Another winter tradition, we look forward with anticipation and three (san). The children are celebrated mostly in Kyoto, is as the cycle begins once again dressed formally, often in daiko-daki, where temples dish with a New Year promising traditional Japanese attire, and out servings of daikon that has fortune and prosperity. presented at a nearby shrine been simmered in a large pot, to where prayers are made for their help people avoid catching cold. health and happiness. The young cover celebrants are presented with Winter Solstice Simmered kabocha squash and adzuki beans traditional stick candy called Toji is the winter solstice, the Author’s profile chitose-ame, “long-life candy,” day in the year when the sun’s Yoichiro Nakamura, Ph.D.; born in 1943. and served sekihan, made with presence in the sky ebbs to its A specialist in historical and folklore resources, Prof. Nakamura was formerly professor at glutinous rice steamed with lowest; it is also the day when Shizuoka Sangyo University (SSU), and is adzuki beans. This rice is served the power of the sun is “reborn,” currently guest researcher at the SSU Institute of on such special occasions and a time when notable Research and Development. His major works include: Iruka to nihonjin (“Dolphins and because of its auspicious red traditional events are held Japanese,” 2017); Myanmar: Ima, ichiban shiritai color. The chitose-ame is made around the world. In the Japanese kuni (“Myanmar: the country we’re most curious of a gelatinous barley syrup that home, toji is marked by making about,” 2013); to shomin kissashi is kneaded and hardened. It simmered kabocha squash and (“Bancha tea and the history of popular tea drinking,” 2015); and Washoku bunka booklet 2: carries specific significance, as adzuki beans, foods believed to nenchu gyoji to shikitari (“Washoku culture Japanese legends tell of how this prevent illness. Fragrant fresh booklet, no. 2: annual events and traditions,” 2016).

FOOD FORUM January 2018 3 CLOSE-UP JAPAN Traditions and trends in Japanese food culture

From left: Osechi ryori composed of Chinese dishes and of traditional

Contemporary Osechi Ryori

During the first three days of working couples and busy the New Year, Japanese enjoy schedules have upended the osechi ryori, an elaborate Osechi is an integral conventional osechi scene, array of preserved foods and the number of those presented in gorgeous, multi- component of preparing these special foods layered lacquered boxes. The is gradually declining. origins of osechi ryori arose Fortunately, buying prepared from offerings made to honor osechi ryori is now acceptable. the gods during sekku, special Osechi ryori is sold in days which mark the changing energetically. Despite various forms and is available of the seasons throughout changing times, the ancient from single helpings to large the year. The most important custom of osechi ryori remains family-size quantities. of these is the welcoming of an integral and significant Healthier, preservative-free the New Year, and today’s component of Japanese New versions are offered as well, osechi ryori developed from Year traditions—albeit in including low-sodium and this custom. simpler, rather more user- gluten-free options. Osechi Osechi ryori includes only friendly versions. may be pre-ordered and auspicious foods, whether in In the past, osechi dishes purchased at department color, name or shape; for were prepared days in advance stores, convenience stores example, kazunoko (herring by the women of the and restaurants, or even marinated with - household. Because these foods online. Not only is it based ) symbolizes the were intended to last through convenient to source osechi, blessings of fertility and the first few days of the New but consumers may select prosperity; the Japanese word Year, they were often from a surprising range of mame in kuromame preserved, pickled or salted, cuisines, from traditional (simmered black and were heavily seasoned. Japanese favorites to Chinese with sugar) suggests working Nowadays, refrigeration, or Western fusion.

4 JAPANESE STYLE Perspectives on Japanese cuisine

Tai Sea Bream

The sea bream or tai is a popular fi sh among Japanese. celebratory occasions. Tai imagery appears in the form Its white fl esh has a unique , and whether served of steamed fi sh cakes at weddings, and as simmered, grilled or as , it has an ideal fi rmness. tai-shaped kinkato sugar confection during the Doll The vermilion color of the tai is auspicious in Japanese Festival in March. Dishes bearing tai designs are also culture, and this, as well as its graceful form, is why the used for special festivities. During the fi rst three days of fi sh has come to represent good fortune. The ancient the New Year, a whole grilled tai is traditionally offered image of Ebisu, one of the Seven Gods of Fortune, is to the god of the incoming year; on the fourth day, the represented as carrying a plump tai. Its name is fi sh is eaten—and is then referred to as niramidai, phonetically similar to medetai, which evokes a sense which means it must fi rst be looked upon as an offering of good wishes, and so the fi sh is typically served on before being consumed.

Grilled tai Tai-shaped kinkato confection

TASTY TRAVEL Fukushima Kozuyu

Fukushima Kozuyu is a regional dish from Aizu, in Fukushima Prefecture. The dashi broth of this clear soup is made of dried scallop, and its ingredients include dried and cloud-ear mushrooms, carrots, satoimo taro, ito-konnyaku (konjac noodles) and wheat-gluten croutons (mamefu), seasoned with soy sauce and . Situated inland, Aizu historically had limited access to fresh seafood, and so dried ingredients were used to prepare kozuyu, with the dried scallop itself prized above the other ingredients. Kozuyu is traditionally served in special Aizu lacquered bowls during the New Year and other celebrations. Normally, asking for several refills is frowned upon during auspicious occasions—but Kozuyu kozuyu is the tasty exception.

FOOD FORUM January 2018 5 Hakusai napa cabbage and dashi are ingredients used in traditional COD YUKI-MI NABE Japanese nabe hot pot; here, Western-style cabbage is substituted “SNOW-VIEWING” HOT POT for hakusai. If preferred, chicken or sliced pork may be used rather WITH COD than cod. The name yuki-mi nabe refers to the impression of viewing “snow” (yuki), as evoked by white grated daikon.

Sprinkle the cod fi llets with 1/2 t salt and set aside for 10 minutes, then rinse and 1 wipe with a paper towel. Drizzle the fi llets with and cut each into thirds. 2Parboil the cod until the outer surface of the fi sh turns white; drain. Daikon In a pot, heat the dashi-bouillon stock, sake and light color soy sauce. Serves 2 3 189 kcal Protein 27.6 g Fat 2.1 g (per person) Add the cabbage and cover. Simmer over low-medium heat until cabbage is nearly cooked. • 3 cod fillets, total 250 g / 8-9 oz. 4 • 1/2 t salt • 1 t sake Cut the tofu into 2.5 cm squares, 1.5 cm thick (1 in. squares, 3/5 in. thick). Add the tofu, shiitake mushrooms and cod to the pot. Cook slowly over low-medium heat. 1 5 • Total 800 ml / 3 /3 C dashi + bouillon* • 1 T sake • 1 T Kikkoman Light Color Soy Sauce Add seri, grated daikon and grated ginger. Turn off the heat just after coming to a • 1/4 cabbage, 200 g / 7 oz., chopped 6boil, then serve. • 1/4 block of soft tofu,100 g / 3 oz. • 2 shiitake mushrooms, stems removed * Instead of mixed stock, either dashi or bouillon may be used alone. • Seri (Japanese parsley); or ** Fresh ginger reduces the unique aroma of grated daikon; if ginger is unavailable, the cooking liquid can be watercress or Italian parsley flavored with bay leaf, kaffir lime leaf or lemongrass. • 250-300 g / 1 C grated daikon, *** As diners serve themselves from the hot pot, they can season their portions to taste with either soy sauce or slightly drained sauce. • 1 knob fresh ginger, peeled and grated** Recipe by Michiko Yamamoto • Kikkoman Soy Sauce or ponzu sauce, to taste*** 1 C (U.S. cup) = approx. 240 ml; 1 T = 15 ml; 1 t = 5 ml

6 Tatsuta age recipes typically involve fi sh or chicken marinated KATSUO NO TATSUTA AGE in a soy sauce-based sauce; the meat is then coated with cornstarch and deep-fried. This marinade not only acts as a DEEP-FRIED BONITO seasoning, it mellows the strong fl avor of the meat. Tuna, chicken or lamb may be substituted for bonito in this recipe. 1Remove the skin from the bonito and cut the fi sh into bite sizes, about 1 cm / ½ in. thick. Mix soy sauce and grated ginger in a bowl. Add bonito and allow to marinate for 2 15 minutes. Katsuo fillet Prick each shishito green pepper with a toothpick to make 2 or 3 small holes (see photo), which will prevent the oil from Serves 4 3 170 kcal Protein 19.7 g Fat 7.7 g splattering. Cut off stems. (per person) Heat oil for frying to 170 °C / 335 °F. Add the peppers gently and • 300 g / 10 oz. fresh katsuo bonito fillet 4 deep-fry briefl y until they turn a bright green. Remove and place them on a paper towel to drain. • 2 T Kikkoman Soy Sauce • 20 g / 0.7 oz. ginger, grated Coat the bonito with cornstarch and shake off excess. • 8 shishito green peppers* 5 • Vegetable oil for deep-frying • 2 T cornstarch Increase the oil temperature to 180 °C / 355 °F. Deep-fry the bonito in oil until the 6 fi sh turns golden brown and rises up from the bottom of the pot. Remove and place the fi sh on a paper towel to drain. 7 Serve the deep-fried bonito on a platter with the shishito peppers.

* Sweet mini peppers may be substituted. If these are unavailable, 4 small green bell peppers may be used; cut and remove seeds before deep-frying.

Recipe by Kikkoman Corporation

FOOD FORUM January 2018 7 KFE Celebrates 20 Years in the Netherlands

Left (from l-r): Mr. Willem van Gogh, Advisor and Ambassador, Van Gogh Museum; Mr. Yuzaburo Mogi, Honorary CEO and Chairman, Kikkoman Corporation; Mr. Adriaan Dönszelmann, Managing Director, Van Gogh Museum; Mr. Osamu Mogi, Director, Executive Corporate Offi cer, International Operations Division, Kikkoman Corporation. Right: Mr. Mogi with Professor Pieter van Vollenhoven of the Royal House of the Netherlands, Chairman of the Victim Support Fund.

Kikkoman Foods Europe B.V. food cultures, customs and trends plans to continue its (KFE), located in Hoogezand- in each country, may use soy sponsorship of the Rembrandt Sappemeer in the Netherlands, is sauce not only as a seasoning House until 2022, as well as to Kikkoman’s soy sauce production for Japanese food but in their support an ongoing, long-term plant in Europe. It celebrated its local cuisines as well. With water-quality improvement 20th anniversary in November the establishment of KFE as a project for a lake near KFE. 2017. To commemorate this event, production and logistics base, the Kikkoman is also participating KFE held a ceremony in The Netherlands plays an essential in charities affiliated with the Hague on November 8, which role in the distribution of our Royal House of the Netherlands, was well-attended by many products throughout Europe. The contributing to its Victim Support honored guests. volume of shipments from KFE Fund, as well as to children’s Kikkoman has continued its has increased more than seven- water and energy conservation dedication to awareness activities fold since it was first established. awareness activities. such as recipe development and Since KFE was founded, These multifaceted social cooking demonstrations so that Kikkoman has made various contributions reflect one of consumers in Europe, with different social contributions by donating Kikkoman’s management to environmental, artistic and principles “to become a company educational initiatives in the whose existence is meaningful Netherlands, as well as to cross- to the global society.” Growing cultural studies between Europe together with each of the and Asia. communities in which we Following news in early 2017 operate is one of the goals of that two van Gogh paintings, the Kikkoman Group. As a stolen in 2002, had been good corporate citizen, we will recovered, Kikkoman donated to continue “the international the restoration being conducted exchange of food culture” on the works to return them through our contributions to public viewing in the in diverse areas such as the Kikkoman Foods Europe B.V. (KFE) Netherlands. The company also environment and culture.

FOOD FORUM is a quarterly newsletter published by Kikkoman Corporation, International Operations Division, 2-1-1 Nishi-Shinbashi, Minato- ku, Tokyo 105-8428, Japan / Production: Cosmo Public Relations Corporation / Editor: Marybeth Stock / Proofreader: Eda Sterner Kaneko / Special Advisors: Isao Kumakura, Michiko Yamamoto / Contributor: Yoichiro Nakamura / Art Director: Eiko Nishida / Photo Credits: amanaimages (p. 1, p. 4) / PIXTA (p. 2, p. 5 top left and bottom) / HAGA LIBRARY (p. 3 top right) / Yoshitaka Matsumoto (p. 3 top left, p. 5 top right, pp. 6-7) / Special Thanks: Tanzan- Jinja Shrine / Printing: Otowa Printing ©2017 by Kikkoman Corporation. All rights reserved. Requests to reprint articles or excerpts should be sent to the publisher. www.kikkoman.com

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