DELI MEATS Spotlighting Salami Made in the USA �� 37 Five Ways to Upsell Shoppers on This Popular Salted, Artisan-Flavored Deli Meat

DELI BUSINESSMARKETING MERCHANDISING MANAGEMENT PROCUREMENT APRIL/MAY 2019 $14.95 Making Sandwiches Your Bread And Butter Also Inside The Basque Region speck Alto Adige Guacamole American Blue Cheese Packaging Salami

Cover.indd 1 4/4/19 2:42 PM Gourmet Foods.indd 1 3/27/19 3:29 PM APRIL/MAY ‘19 • VOL.24/NO.2 Contents

FEATURE Capitalizing On Foods...... 12 From The Basque Region These specialty items have something to offer today’s delis Alto Adige – The Home of Speck...... 22 Learn what makes this Northern Italian specialty unique Guacamole’s Popularity Continues...... 24 To Grow This heart-healthy dip or spread spells opportunity

CHEESE CORNER Highlighting Flavorful American ��28 Blue Cheese It pays to become familiar with domestic varieties that provide added sales for delis

COVERHow to find success with inspired,STORY signature sandwich programs14

12 24

DELI BUSINESS (ISSN 1088-7059) is published by Phoenix Media Network, Inc., P.O. Box 810425, Boca Raton, FL 33481-0425 POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Deli Business, P.O. Box 810217, Boca Raton, FL 33481-0217

APRIL/MAY 2019 DELI BUSINESS 3

TOC.indd 1 4/5/19 5:10 PM APRIL/MAY ‘19 • VOL.24/NO.2 Contents PROCUREMENT The Packaging Predicament �� 33 It can be a challenge developing sustainable containers that enhance shelf life and merchandising, but innovative materials and 37 processes are hitting all the marks

DELI MEATS Spotlighting Salami Made In The USA �� 37 Five ways to upsell shoppers on this popular salted, artisan-flavored deli meat

33 COMMENTARIES IN EVERY ISSUE EDITOR’S NOTES Deli Watch �� 6 New Twist On Pre-Packaged Meat ��8 – Fresh Always Wins Information Showcase ��42 MANAGING EDITOR’S INSIGHTS Blast From The Past ��42 Big Shoes To Fill ��10

4 DELI BUSINESS APRIL/MAY 2019

TOC.indd 2 4/8/19 12:20 PM DELI BUSINESSMarketing Merchandising Management Procurement

DELI BUSMARKETING MERCHANDISINGINESS MANAGEMENT PROCUREMENT

DELI BUSINESSMARKETING MERCHANDISING MANAGEMENT PROCUREMENT

DELI BUSMARKETING MERCHANDISINGINESS MANAGEMENT PROCUREMENT PRESIDENT & EDITOR-IN-CHIEF DeliBUSINESSmarketing merchandising management procurement JAMES E. PREVOR 5 Food Trends For 2019 [email protected] DeliBUSINESSmarketing merchandising management procurement The “Shifting Sands: Trends Shaping the Food Industry in 2019” report from Culinary DeliBUSINESSMARKETING MERCHANDISING MANAGEMENT PROCUREMENT PUBLISHING DIRECTOR KENNETH L. WHITACRE Tides Inc., Tualatin, OR, is a cross-analysis of 228 prediction lists for 2019 put forth by DeliBUSINESSMARKETING MERCHANDISING MANAGEMENT PROCUREMENT [email protected] 170 industry experts. In all, more than 1,700 individual predictions were evaluated. All

DELI BUSINESSMarketing Merchandising Management Procurement PUBLISHER/EDITORIAL DIRECTOR trends in the report are anticipated to remain in focus throughout 2019 and into the fi rst DELI BUSINESSMarketing Merchandising Management Procurement LEE SMITH quarter of 2020. [email protected] Grains, Fruits, And Vegetables Lose Risk-Taking Momentum EXECUTIVE EDITOR ELLEN KOTEFF The grains list had some playful twists with farro, kernza, sorghum, teff, global pasta, [email protected] heirloom rice and hemp. The single, global and ancient grains, and breads made from MANAGING EDITOR them, continue to capture media attention and consumer interest as they have strong LISA WHITE backing from clinical health research. [email protected] Plant And Animal Protein Continue To Diverge NATIONAL SALES MANAGER MARK GOLD Groups of items mentioned for 2019 including jerky, offal, trash fi sh, underused meat [email protected] cuts and bone broth. Since beans are a neutral palate they can move between global PRODUCTION DIRECTOR cuisines and compete with grains and proteins in dishes. DIANA LEVINE [email protected] Cuisines And Clusters Retreat To Post-Recession Position Cuisines were global and ranged from Cuban, Israeli, Filipino, French and Moroccan ART DIRECTOR SUNSHINE GORMAN to U.S. regional dishes. Dishes followed suit but were split between African, Asian, [email protected] European, Middle Eastern, South American and American. Global comfort foods was PRODUCTION DEPARTMENT the focus for all. Cluster items included global breakfast, regional BBQ, street food, FREDDY PULIDO invasivors, cultured and fermented items, fl atbreads, peasant and marine foods. RESEARCH DIRECTOR SHARON OLSON Desserts Replace Nostalgia With Experimentation Desserts were experimental compared to other categories. Ice cream is really taking CONTRIBUTING EDITORS CAROL BAREUTHER HANNAH HOWARD center stage with extreme milkshakes, vegan ice cream, upscale soft serve and frozen BOB JOHNSON KEITH LORIA bars. Naked cakes and regional pies are canvases for creativity while herbs, salt, vegeta-

SEND INSERTION ORDERS, PAYMENTS, PRESS RELEASES, bles and alcohol act as their party dress. PHOTOS, LETTERS TO THE EDITOR, ETC., TO: DELI BUSINESS Preps And Seasonings Act As The Party Dress P.O. BOX 810217, BOCA RATON, FL 33481-0217 Cooking methods are moving away from live ﬁ re and dry heat methods and are PHONE: 561-994-1118 FAX: 561-994-1610 EMAIL: [email protected] toned down and mixed in with wet cooking methods. What is predicted shows a turn toward comfort, including pickled, foil packets, sheet pan suppers and house-made ev- PHOENIX MEDIA NETWORK, INC. CHAIRMAN OF THE BOARD erything. Spicy, woody, earthy and savory replaced extreme ﬂ avors from last year. In- JAMES E. PREVOR ternational spice blends were mentioned from Egypt, Ethiopia, Korea, the Philippines,

EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT Argentina and elsewhere. KENNETH L. WHITACRE

SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT LEE SMITH COMING NEXT IN JUNE/JULY ISSUE

VICE PRESIDENT EDITORIAL ELLEN KOTEFF COVER STORY MERCHANDISING DELI MEATS 15th Annual REVIEWS Deli Meat Supplement GENERAL COUNSEL DEBRA PREVOR People Awards Deli Breads Olives PREPARED FOODS TRADE SHOW COORDINATOR JACKIE LOMONTE FEATURE Cross Merchandising Sushi Mediterranean Foods DELI BUSINESS IS PUBLISHED BY Ethical Eating PHOENIX MEDIA NETWORK, INC. PROCUREMENT CHEESE CORNER P.O. BOX 810425, STRATEGIES Alpine, Rennet BOCA RATON, FL 33481-0425 Packaging Ultimate Pairings PHONE: 561-994-1118 FAX: 561-994-1610 www.delibusiness.com ENTIRE CONTENTS © COPYRIGHT 2019

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APRIL/MAY 2019 DELI BUSINESS 5

Masthead3.indd 1 4/4/19 2:36 PM DELI WATCH

TRANSITIONS ANNOUNCEMENTS

BUTTERBALL BELGIOIOSO CHEESE CRAVE BROTHERS APC ACQUIRES ANNOUNCES NEW COO MEDALS AT U.S. WINS TWO FIRST FRESHCO FOODS CHAMPIONSHIP PLACE AWARDS Butterball, LLC, Garner, NC, has CHEESE CONTEST American Pasteurization chosen Peter Brown as its chief Crave Brothers Farmstead Co. (APC), Milwaukee, has operating officer. He brings to BelGioioso Cheese, Green Bay, Cheese, Waterloo, WI, has won acquired FreshCo Foods, a the company more than 30 years WI, was awarded six med- five awards at the 2019 U.S. Milwaukee-based, end-to-end of executive leadership experi- als at The U.S. Championship Championship Cheese Contest. co-manufacturer of premium and ence from many different levels Cheese Contest out of 2,555 The company received two specialty food products. As part of of procurement, manufacturing, entries from 35 different states. Gold Awards (Best of Class/ the acquisition, FreshCo has been commercial distribution and cus- The company was honored with First Place) for Fresh Mozzarella renamed APC Manufacturing. tomer support. In his new role, five first place gold medals for Medallions and Part-Skim One- APC Manufacturing was founded Brown will work collaboratively its Sharp Provolone Mandarini, Pound Mozzarella Balls. In in 2017 and has been adding capa- to drive results and have direct Parmesan, Crema di Mascarpone, addition, Crave Brothers Cheese bilities and expanding its portfolio responsibility for company oper- Fresh Mozzarella Snacking and won three-second place Silver of business for the past year. ations across Butterball’s six Artigiano Vino Rosso. It received Awards for Fresh Mozzarella www.americanpasteur- turkey-processing facilities and all a third place Bronze medal for its Ciliegine, Oaxaca and White izationcompany.com operational support functions. Fresh Mozzarella Prosciutto & Cheddar Cheese Curds. www.butterball.com Fresh Basil Roll. www.cravecheese.com www.belgioioso.com

NEW PRODUCTS

SWISS CHALET BECOMES LIPARI FOODS ACQUIRES A MATZO MARVEL A PETITE MUSTARD BRIE DIVISION OF ATALANTA TROYER CHEESE The Matzo Project, Brooklyn, Marin French Cheese, Petaluma, Swiss Chalet Fine Foods, Lipari Foods, Warren, MI, has NY, has launched a new take CA, has introduced Petite Elizabeth, NJ, has become a divi- acquired Troyer Cheese, Inc., on the culturally popular tradi- Mustard, a triple-cream Brie with sion of Atalanta Corp. Swiss Troyer Bros. Trucking, Ltd. and tional matzo. The sturdy, versatile bold, nutty aromatic characteris- Chalet Fine Foods was founded Amish Wedding Foods, Inc. (col- Matzo flats and Matzo Chips are tics of black and brown mustard by Hans and Claire Baumann in lectively, “Troyer”). Troyer is available in three varieties — seeds. Made with fresh cow’s milk 1968 with the goal of bringing fine headquartered in Millersburg, Salted, Everything and Cinnamon and cream delivered daily from European and imported ingredi- OH. The opportunity broadens Sugared. The Matzo Project neighboring Marin County dair- ents to the foodservice industry. Lipari’s manufacturing capabilities, has an all-natural, vegan Matzo ies within a 20-mile radius of the Swiss Chalet has been a Gellert along with expanding its portfo- Ball Soup Kit and a seasonal factory, the soft-ripened cheese’s Global Group member company lio of deli product offerings. The line of hand-dipped Chocolate smooth texture and creamy taste since 2007. The move will further acquisition of Troyer is a natural Matzo wonderclusters from fall counterbalances the crunch of the strengthen Swiss Chalet’s position “next step,” as Lipari continues its to spring. whole mustard seeds on the inside as a top specialty ingredients sup- strategy of acquiring unique and www.matzoproject.com and the added kick of flavor thanks plier to the foodservice industry. complementary food manufactur- to crushed mustard seeds on the www.scff.com ing and distribution businesses in exterior of the bloomy wheel. existing and adjacent markets. www.marinfrench- www.liparifoods.com cheese.com

6 DELI BUSINESS APRIL/MAY 2019

Watch.indd 1 4/3/19 3:49 PM NEW PRODUCTS

SOUS-VIDE SENSATIONS REFRESHED CRACKER PRODUCT PORTFOLIO TASTY TOASTED TIDBITS EXPANDS Les Trois Petits Cochons, PACKAGING Kontos Foods, Paterson, NJ, has Brooklyn, NY, has introduced 2.5- Partners, A Tasteful Choice Co., FrieslandCampina, Paramus, NJ, introduced Toasted Tidbits, also ounce Sous-vide Egg Bites in four San Francisco, has introduced has debuted a variety of new known as Toasted Pita Bits. The varieties. The sous-vide method new packaging for its Artisan products. These include Frico low-calorie snack also is ideal for of cooking allows for a uniquely Snack Crackers and new packag- cheese from Holland; A Dutch dips, soups, snacks and salads. retained flavor and taste. Egg Bites ing and horizontal orientation for Masterpiece; Kroon; Gayo Azul, The tidbits are cut from signature are a high-protein snack that can its Artisan Deli Crackers. The col- Wyke Farms; Organic Kingdom; GYRO Bread, and then toasted be enjoyed at room temperature ors and theme also come to life in Kingdom; Jana Valley; Dairyvale; and packaged in 4-ounce re-seal- or heated in a microwave, skillet the new look of Hospitality Packs. Murray Bridge; Oscar Wilde; able pouches for added freshness. or toaster oven. Varieties include www.partnerscrackers.com Arvaniti; La Paulina; Favrskov; Each package contains four serv- Prosciutto & Gruyère, Bacon & Parrano; Melkbus; and DeWaag. ings, with 103 calories per serving. Swiss, Ham & Espelette Pepper www.frieslandcampino.com The product contains no trans fat and Spinach & Feta. and is vegetarian. It is also Kosher www.3pigs.com Pas Yisroel-certified and Halal certified. www.kontos.com

A GLUTEN FREE CHEESEBOARDS IN A PICKLE A RUBBED WEDGE ALTERNATIVE LAUNCHED Van Holten’s, Waterloo, WI, has Saputo Cheese USA Inc., La Panzanella, Tukwila, WA, now Tillamook County Creamery, introduced two new pickle vari- Montreal, has launched Stella offers 5-ounce gluten free Oat Tillamook, OR, has introduced eties. The company teamed up Fontinella Rubbed Wedges. Thins. The hand-crafted line is a cheeseboard. These include with Tapatio to create a pickle in Hand-rubbed to create four made in small batches with whole Sharp Berry Crunch, with sharp a pouch with the flavor of Tapatio flavors, including Basil Pesto, oat flour and certified gluten free white Cheddar cheese, mari- hot sauce. The company also has Harissa, Bourbonista and Black ingredients. Three flavors are onberry spread and rosemary introduced Pickle Cutz, ½-inch Pepper, the cheese has a deli- available, including Toasted Oat, crackers; Spicy Berry Bite, with thick, crinkle cut pickle slices in cately smooth and creamy taste Rosemary and Roasted Garlic. Pepper Jack cheese, marionberry 3.75-ounce packages. The line is with a hint of sharpness. It’s ideal Only 70 calories per serving, the spread and multigrain crackers; available in Dill and Spicy flavors on a cheeseboard or melted into product is low fat, cholesterol Smoky Apple Crisp, with smoked and has a six-month shelf life. warm dishes. The line is avail- free and vegan. The carton can medium Cheddar cheese, apple www.vanholtenpickles.com able in 6-ounce wedges. be displayed either vertically or spread and olive oil crackers; and www.saputo.com horizontally. Sharp Strawberry Heat, with www.lapanzanella.com sharp white Cheddar cheese, spicy strawberry spread and rosemary crackers. www.tillamook.com

DELI WATCH is a regular feature of Deli Business. Please send information on new products, personnel changes, industry, corpo- rate and personal milestones and available literature, along with a color photo, slide or transparency to: Editor, DELI BUSINESS, P.O. Box 810217 • Boca Raton, FL 33481-0217 • Phone: 561-994-1118 • Fax: 561-994-1610 • Email: [email protected]

APRIL/MAY 2019 DELI BUSINESS 7

Watch.indd 2 4/3/19 5:30 PM FROM THE EDITOR’S DESK New Twists On Pre-Packaged Meat – Fresh Always Wins Perhaps the switch is real but reflects new tech- he Wall Street Journal recently ran an nology — pre-ordering deli products on an app for article that was titled ‘No Baloney: pickup in the store means a consumer who wants a Consumers Shift To Fresh Deli Over half-pound of roast turkey no longer has to wait in Packaged.’ The gist of the article was line, grab a number, etc. The consumers can get the that, due to consumer interest in high convenience of pre-packaged product but buy the Tquality, health, freshness, etc., producers were fresh-sliced product instead. focusing on the service deli as opposed to pre-pack- The Wall Street Journal piece did say some com- aged items.: panies saw opportunities in self-service, though it Meat companies are using the deli counter to show- could be a tough battle: case new and higher-priced products, as customers es- Some companies have said they are succeeding in chew prepackaged cold cuts in favor of healthier and By improving their prepackaged cold cuts, too. more natural foods. Hormel said it has grown sales of its Natural Jim Prevor Hormel Foods Corp., Kraft Heinz Co., Tyson Inc. Choice and Applegate brands that emphasize natu- Editor-in-Chief and other companies are buying smaller deli meat ral ingredients and, at Applegate, humane treatment brands and reformulating their ham and smoked tur- of animals. Hormel’s U.S. deli sales rose 19 percent to key recipes to meet rising demand for fresher cuts. $251.3 million in its fiscal first quarter, outpacing a 1 “There’s a feeling of being a little bit special when percent overall gain in revenue. I go to the deli, as opposed to when I go and shop Tyson’s Hillshire Farm brand this summer will in- off the refrigerated meat wall,” said Jeff Baker, a vice troduce a line of prepackaged cold cuts meant to draw president at Hormel, which bought deli-meat maker in consumers looking for deli-style meats at a lower Columbus Craft Meats in 2017 for $850 million. price point. Sales of freshly cut deli meat rose 2 percent over No company has more to lose from the consum- the past four years through February to $5.9 billion, er drift away from pre-packaged cold cuts than Kraft according to market-research firm IRI, while sales of Heinz, whose Oscar Mayer brand dominates that prepackaged lunch meat fell 8 percent to $3.6 billion. category. Kraft Heinz in February lowered the value Perhaps, but color this columnist skeptical. of brands, including Oscar Mayer, by $15.4 billion, in There are customers moving upscale, organ- part to reflect diminishing profit-margin expectations. ic, healthy, local, etc., but the bottom line is that To make its sliced meats more appealing, Kraft Walmart is the largest food retailer in America, and Heinz has removed preservatives and hormones from the fastest growing sizeable food retailer is Aldi, so some Oscar Mayer products and labelled them “Deli- this supposed quest for an upscale experience is Fresh.” Ingredient lists for those meats now include a rather limited. handful of more familiar ingredients, like sea salt and The Wall Street Journal piece points out that honey. A Kraft Heinz spokeswoman said retail sales many manufacturers are focused on fresh: of lunchmeat have risen 1 percent over the past year. Companies like Boar’s Head Provisions Co., “I don’t think consumers are giving it full credit for known for its cuts of cured or smoked meat, have said those changes,” Robert Moskow, a Credit Suisse an- their products appeal to consumers who perceive the alyst, said of Oscar Mayer. “Maybe it’s just hard to deli section as a place to find better food. change pre-existing perceptions.” Butterball LLC, a turkey producer based in Gar- Pre-packaged product may well wind up the ner, NC, is focusing more on the deli counter as sales winner… after all, who knows if Walmart will of pre-sliced cuts have fallen, said Kyle Lock, senior maintain its service deli, and the online and con- director of retail marketing. Last year, the company venience options practically demand pre-packaged introduced a line of cuts designed to be sliced up at items. deli counters in new flavors like Cajun and deep-fried Perhaps companies such as Oscar Mayer are turkey breast. “The packaged department is really not kidding themselves that the juggling of ingredients a strategic focus for us,” Lock said. will get consumers excited about legacy products. Yet we wonder if the relative decline of pack- Maybe the answer is for the fresh and service aged versus fresh is actually based on accurate deli to create a brand halo for pre-packaged lines. data. With more product sold online and in drug After all, fresh is always desirable — the key is stores and convenience stores, maybe the statistics to convince shoppers that your packaged items are are missing a lot of pre-packaged sales. fresh, as well. DB

8 DELI BUSINESS APRIL/MAY 2019

Jim Column.indd 1 4/8/19 5:21 PM Columbus.indd 1 4/4/19 9:50 AM MANAGING EDITOR’S INSIGHT Big Shoes To Fill

s Lee Smith recovers from hip make your sandwich program a destination. surgery, that leaves me, Lisa I was fortunate to be able to cover the White, managing editor, with the packaging industry in this issue, which is daunting task of writing her col- ever-changing with today’s technology and sus- umn. Typically, a blank page is to tainable material options. I hope you’ll find this Aa writer as appealing as an ice cream cone is article as interesting to read as it was to write to a small child. Yet, I have some pretty big since, although it is a topic we cover annually shoes to fill here, so this task is a bit more chal- and within other subjects, there are always lenging than, say, writing an article on deli meats new and interesting developments. This is good and cheeses. news for not just the deli industry, but also the Yes, I have been writing for Deli Business environment overall. By since its inception in the mid 90s, and so I am This issue’s articles on American artisan Lisa White fairly well versed in all topics deli-related. Yet, salami and blue cheese take an in-depth look at Managing Editor writing a business or feature story from inter- these growing segments, as the United States views with industry experts is much different has much to offer with these products. Find out than writing opinions and commentary, espe- what items are making headlines in the indus- cially when it comes to a business-to-business try and offer new possibilities for your lineups. audience. I’m not armed with the insider intel- A good mix is key to customer appeal. ligence that comes along with decades of Speaking of deli specialties, check out the working in the deli industry. exciting products from France’s Basque region And to top it off, considering I’m filling in for that your department can definitely bene- Lee Smith, who many would consider a leg- fit from. Ossau Iraty cheese is unique, yet has end in deli and cheese if ever there was one, I widespread appeal, and Bayonne ham is the couldn’t be more intimidated. Her perspectives perfect addition to your exported meat selec- and observations come from decades of expe- tions. Let’s show our friends across the pond rience, along with many years working in the some love and benefit from their tasty special- industry. I know many of you have benefitted ties in the process. from her knowledge first hand. I know I have. Lee’s article on Spec Alto Adige is written So where does that leave me, as I still have from a firsthand perspective, as she was for- some space to fill here? How about I recap tunate to visit this region in Italy and see the what I do know well, which is each article in this products being produced. I hope you find its his- issue you’re about to read. There is a lot of great tory as intriguing and speck as enticing as I did information in the following pages that I’m con- reading this up-close and personal-piece. fident will be valuable to you in your business. Finally, don’t miss the latest on guacamole, a Take our cover story, sandwiches, for dip, spread and condiment, but really a perpet- example. Today’s delis have raised the bar ually on-trend product category that shows no substantially when it comes to foodservice, signs of slowing down. Who doesn’t love avoca- and these products have definitely taken cen- dos? Guac’s widespread appeal makes it a staple ter stage. After all, the department has all the in today’s deli department. components to make this section a success, a Whew. That was easier than I thought. plethora of meats, cheeses, condiments and Don’t get any ideas, Lee. We’re wishing bread options as well as accompaniments like you a speedy recovery and a quick return to pickles. It’s all covered here, including how to these pages. DB

10 DELI BUSINESS APRIL/MAY 2019

Lisa Column.indd 1 4/9/19 10:24 AM La Panzanella F-P.indd 1 3/27/19 3:30 PM FEATURE Capitalizing On Foods From The Basque Region These specialty items have something to offer today’s delis BY HANNAH HOWARD, LEE SMITH AND LISA WHITE

pecialty sections in delis at about 5 pounds. The unctuous sheep’s pressed,” says Lehembre. “It has a nice tex- can benefit from Themilk curds are warmed and drained until ture, as it’s hard and not chewy.” Basque region. This area very dry in the vat before being pressed Both are award-winning cheeses. includes a number of areas into wheels. These cheeses tend to be Savencia has recently introduced S in France, close to its bor- firmer and drier than their Ossau Valley Cayrol, a hard goat’s milk cheese that was der with Spain. Because this area has its counterparts. There’s also an Irati Forest unveiled at the San Francisco Fancy Food own microclimate with the sea and the practice of aging cheeses near the chimney Show in January this year. mountains, it attracts a great deal of rain for a smoky flavor. This is the tradition from “Milk is collected daily from surround- throughout the year. which the cheese Idiazabal is born. ing farms, and it’s a small production,” says This is good news, as the lush landscape, Nearby in the Ossau Valley, the wheels Lehembre. “This mild cheese is aged for full of flowers, plants and green grass lend tend to be twice as big, about 10 pounds. three months. The outside is orange and well to producing some of the finest meats These cheeses have a more complex pro- inside is very white and characteristic of and cheeses available. cess of being aged — they are left to mature goat’s milk.” in humid caves, sometimes underground, “There is a misnomer about goat’s milk Two Traditions Merged where they are brushed with salted water. cheese,” says Lehembre. “Most goats don’t Despite the fact the number of entries The Ossau-Iraty in the United States have strong cheese, rather it’s fruity in a cit- into the American Cheese Society (ACS) is usually a fusion of these two customs. rus way. Ours has a caffeine flavor with a competition that were made exclusively The wheels come in two sizes. The small little (hint) of hay.” from sheep’s milk increased 40 percent one has a diameter of about 8 inches and In 2011, a 10-month old Ossau Iraty from 2010 to 2016, according to the New weighs between 4.5 and 6.5 pounds. The from Fromagerie Agour, a family-owned York Times, and also these cheeses remain larger size has a diameter about 10 inches business in the southwest of France, was popular in the United States, these variet- and weighs about 9 to 11 pounds. The named World’s Best Cheese at the World ies have been underrepresented in today’s cheese is made with raw milk from the local Cheese Awards in Birmingham, England. delis. sheep, with bright red and black heads. Five years later in 2016, the cheese won Said to be one of the first cheeses ever Wheels must age for 80 to 120 days. the award again. made, Ossau Iraty has increased in popular- Agour was founded in 1981, and it’s the ity due to an influx of sheep’s milk cheese in A New Appreciation last family-run dairy in Basque country. the United States, especially aged cheeses. Around eight major dairies and co-op- “We have a strong relationship with our Ossau Iraty is produced in two regions eratives craft Ossau Iraty. They get their farmers,” says Diane Sauvage, the North in the southwest of France along the milk supply from 2,000 small farms located American branch director for the com- Spanish border — in the Northern Basque in the region. pany. “We make a cheese that celebrates a Country’s Irati Forest and in Bearn’s neigh- Savencia Cheese USA, New Holland, strong sense of terroir.” When the late Jean boring Ossau Valley. PA, makes Esquirrou Ossau Iraty, a PDO Etxeleku founded the company, his goal Ossau Iraty received AOC status in cheese in a 5-pound wheel. was to maintain the rich traditions while 1980, making it only one of two sheep’s “The name means ‘bell’ in French, sig- innovating to keep up with a changing, milk cheeses with this status — the other nifying a bell around a sheep’s neck,” says growing market. Back then, 15 family farm- is Roquefort. Ossau Iraty was granted Sebastien Lehembre, Savencia’s senior ers combined their milk for Agour’s Ossau European PDO status in 1996. brand manager. “Rather than most wheels Iraty. Today, that number is 130. This type is a single cheese that melds that are 10 to 15 pounds, this wheel is sliced tradition from two neighboring but distinct down smaller to evolve differently.” The Perfect Bayonne Ham places. The Basque-type cheese from the Another Savencia cheese from the Also from the Basque, Jambon de Irati Forest is called Ardi Gasna, which Basque region is Etorki, which means ‘ori- Bayonne is considered one of the most means “sheep’s cheese” in Basque. These gin,’ and is a pure ewe’s cheese. exquisite dry-cured hams in the world. wheels tend to be smaller; they weigh in “This is a mild 10-pound cheese that’s Made for more than 1,000 years,

12 DELI BUSINESS APRIL/MAY 2019

Basque Region.indd 1 4/3/19 5:49 PM FEATURE

Bayonne ham has a history as rich as the — pork, salt and air. Just as important as peratures, where the environment is kept people of the Basque. While salting tech- the pork is the salt that will transform a raw artificially winter-like, using modern techniques to preserve meat and seafood leg into a dry-cured ham. The salt cures the niques. They will stay there to begin to dry. probably go back more than a millen- ham, drawing out the moisture and acting After a period of resting, the hams will nium due to the salt water springs and as a preservative. be hung from the rafters where the long easy access to the ocean, the process of The salt required to be used in the salt- process of maturing begins. using salt to dry cure legs of pork probably ing and curing process is Salies-de-Bearn. After a period, the process called arrived with the Romans. It is a treasure found under the Pyrenees “Panage” is done to slow down the aging Bayonne is in the French Basque area Mountains that rises to the surface through process. A mixture of pig fat, rice flour and of Southwest France straddling the border natural waters and salt springs. pepper is applied to the exposed part of the of Spain. Aged for a minimum of nine months, ham. This will allow for a gentler aging and While the origins are a bit of mystery, Jambon-de-Bayonne is produced using tra- the curing of flavors. legend has it that Bayonne Ham was cre- ditional methods. It is believed that nothing While the ham is maturing, it is devel- ated after an extraordinary hunt. One is a secret when you trust in a product that oping its mild and refined flavors. The hams day, Gaston Febus, the Count of Foix, has a respect for tradition. Each step plays must be aged for at least nine months, but wounded a wild boar, which then ran off. an essential part in curing the perfect ham. depending on the size of the ham, it may The boar was not discovered until months Producers may only use legs from take as long as 12 months. Hams can be later in the Salies-de-Bearn salt-water area, authorized slaughterhouses, and they must aged up to 22 months, but are generally perfectly preserved. be transformed within seven days. preferred younger. More logically, salt curing was well The salting is done in winter-style con- The final step is the testing period, known by then, and it was refined by the ditions. The fresh hams are rubbed with when independent and highly-qualified Romans who had a long history of cur- salt exclusively from Salies-de-Bearn. They experts will assess the quality of the ham. ing pork with salt and natural winds. are then covered in a thick layer of salt and After passing rigorous quality control steps, Additional evidence is the similarity of pro- placed in the salting room. the ham will be branded with the Lauburu duction between the prosciutto of Italy and The hams are hung to rest at low tem- Cross, the Bayonne seal. DB Bayonne ham of France. The native pig is an unusual creature and not the best for commercial production. Called the Pie Noir du Pays Basque, it is as its name suggests a piebald black and pink animal. It takes longer to mature and puts on more internal fat, making it the perfect pig for Bayonne ham. Today, the large, white breeds mostly have sup- planted the breed. The Pie Noir almost disappeared by the 1980s, but is seeing a slow resurrection, as demand for authen- ticity and the preservation of original species grows. Regardless of breed, pigs must not be fed or treated with steroids, fish oils or antibiotics. The piglets must stay with the mother, and all must be allowed to free forage on roots, corn, nuts (usually acorns) and grasses. In addition, they may be offered cereals. Bayonne ham is an EU Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) product, and strict rules and regulations are necessary for the rearing of the pigs, production and aging of the hams. The controlling body for enforcing regulations is the Consortium du Jambon de France. Pigs to be used for Bayonne ham must be born and raised in Southwest France. The production of the ham must be done in the Adour Basin, between the Atlantic Ocean and the Pyrenees Mountains. Part of the beauty of Bayonne ham is its simplicity. There are three ingredients PHOTO COURTESY OF ESQUIRROU

APRIL/MAY 2019 DELI BUSINESS 13

Basque Region.indd 2 4/3/19 5:49 PM COVERCOVER STORY STORY Making Sandwiches Your Bread And Butter

How to find success with inspired, signature deli programs BY KEITH LORIA

ith a rise of Millennials looking for healthier Many delis today offer signature sandwiches and a selection of meal options, many are foregoing the usual gourmet offerings on paninis, wraps and different types of bread fast food restaurants and turning to super- — and manufacturers of meats, cheeses and breads are making markets for prepared foods, salad bars and sure they are getting in on the additional business by teaming with freshly made offerings — and one of the most deli departments on their products. popularW segments in the deli department is a sandwich program. Daniel Levine, director of New York-based Avant-Guide More people than ever before are thinking of supermarket delis Institute, a global trends consultancy, says sandwiches are getting as meal destinations. fancier, and that’s also bringing a lot of eyes — and mouths — to That’s why offering a sandwich program is a golden opportu- the category. nity for supermarket delis to cater to the lunch crowd and attract “In general, deli sandwich makers are finding increased com- people during the workday. petition with ever more exotic offerings from QSR brands,” he

14 DELI BUSINESS APRIL/MAY 2019

Cover Story - Sandwiches.indd 1 4/4/19 2:45 PM Conroy Foods.indd 1 3/27/19 3:21 PM COVER STORY

says. “Delis are changing their game in response to an onslaught that includes KFC’s Cheetos Sandwich, McDonald’s Spicy McChicken Sandwich line, Carl’s Jr.’s Beyond Famous Star Burger (made with a Beyond Meat patty), Dunkin’ Power Breakfast Sandwich and Arby’s 5 Meat Mega Stack.” There’s also competition from smaller shops. For example, in New York City, the upscale bagel chain Black Seed Bagels is now selling a bagel sandwich made with lobster cream cheese and, according to the company, has a taste that is simultaneously “tart, briny and crunchy.” Needless to say, for traditionalists this combo is defi nitely not kosher — either literally or fi guratively. “Breakfast sandwiches are also having their moment, as many delis are seeing that upping their morning game ups their prof- its,” notes Levine. “An example of this I’m headquartered in Ridgefi eld, NJ, has been different ways. seeing around is a BLT with scrambled egg baking breads for more than 90 years, and “First, healthier breads are becom- in a bun with balsamic mayo.” many of its products are the foundation for ing more popular — especially among a number of supermarket sandwich pro- the younger generations; for exam- An Evolution grams operating today. ple gluten-free wraps, organic and Karen Toufayan, vice president of mar- Over the company’s long history, it has all-natural options, and non-GMO have keting and sales at Toufayan Bakeries, seen sandwich programs evolve in several become more popular among today’s sand-

THE PERFECT COMPLEMENT here are some things that just go condiments like ketchup or mustard, “If you are purchasing a deli lunch- Tperfectly together — peanut but- the company does play a role with meat that is free from preservatives, ter and jelly, milk and cookies, Ernie complementing sandwiches using why put a condiment that is full of and Bert — and when it comes to the some gourmet sides that go with any them on the sandwich?” he asks. perfect sandwich, everyone has their meal that comes from the deli. Conroy Foods offers the Simple & own idea on what condiment equals Carl H. Cappelli, senior vice Saucy Sandwich condiment product perfection. president of sales and business devel- line, which is comprised of high-qual- It wasn’t long ago when things as opment for the company, points to ity simple ingredients that are simple as ketchup, mustard and may- Don’s Artichoke Asiago Cheese Dip as gluten-free and all natural. onnaise were the only condiment a unique option that’s a great addi- “Each fl avor has a distinctly arti- options available at a deli counter. tion to fl atbreads, paninis or grilled san feel from classic fl avors, such as While some people still enjoy these chicken sandwiches. Submarine Dressing made with 100 traditional choices, any condiment “We’ve found the latest fl avor percent pure olive oil and red wine selection that doesn’t have at least 10 trends for add-ons to be Korean, Asian vinegar to the exciting, fi ery Sriracha different products is almost consid- and African inspired, which peo- Mustard Sauce and the specialty mus- ered laughable now. ple really enjoy on their lunches,” he tards, Deli Dijon and Whole Grain,” Between sriracha, barbecue sauce, says. “We’ve also seen products that says Orlando. “The Simple and Saucy different hot sauces, soy sauce, are pre-made, made fresh and made sandwich condiment line meets the salad dressings and variations of all innovatively are big sellers.” consumer demand for the natural of the above, there are a multitude Tom Orlando, national sales direc- option of clean ingredients for prepar- of fl avors people like to add to their tor of Conroy Foods, headquartered ing gourmet sandwiches at home.” sandwiches; plus there are things like in Pittsburgh, says some retailers When merchandising condiments, hummus, salsa, pesto, guacamole and are creating “free-from” or a “does Orlando notes a deli just needs to pro- different oils that many consumers not include” list of ingredients they vide a solution for the consumer; it consider condiments and necessary to offer to the consumer and merchan- doesn’t need to wow them with expen- complete the ideal sandwich. dise with signage, which allows the sive fi xtures. While Don’s Food Products, based consumer to know the quality and “We have a cardboard shipper in Philadelphia, doesn’t make normal healthier options available to them. with themed header cards,” he says. continues on page 18 16 DELI BUSINESS APRIL/MAY 2019

Cover Story - Sandwiches.indd 2 4/4/19 10:38 AM Dietz & Watson.indd 1 4/8/19 10:24 AM COVER STORY More and more retailers continued from page 16 “For example, our football-themed ‘Beano’s Deli Condiments Have All The have a pre-packed deli area Right Moves For Your Tailgate Party’ allows the consumer to pick up a bot- for the consumer who does tle of each of the four choices for their tailgate purchase in the deli.” not want to wait in line. Grab-and-Go: Making a Fast Decision wich programs,” says Toufayan. “On the pany features a variety of meat options for More and more retailers have a other end of the spectrum, more exciting delis to choose from. pre-packed deli area for the con- taste options and fi llings have also grown. “It only made sense for us, since this is sumer who does not want to wait in Products like naan and brioche buns fi lled something we know so much about,” says line. These consumers grab some pre- with more exotic or international fl avors Jaline G. Isidor Horta, digital marketing sliced cheese, ham and maybe some have grown in demand.” director for the company. “We currently turkey. Right above the grab-and-go In fact, Toufayan has recently intro- have three new items — Induveca Ham, case there is a selection of condi- duced a number of new breads to keep which is a ham cooked with natural juices, ments that consumers will also grab, up with these trends, such as all-natural gluten free, low sodium and 98-percent fat and their purchase decision is done. naans, brioche buns, smart pockets and free; a turkey breast, which is gluten free, “When you think about the prac- non-GMO gluten-free wraps. The com- contains no MSG, is browned in oil and tice, it is such common sense to place pany says it has experienced tremendous allergen free; and a chicken breast, which tertiary-use products close to pri- success so far. is gluten free, MSG free, extra lean, only mary driver purchase items,” says 60 calories per serving, fully cooked, and Orlando. “Everyone is time-starved The Role Of Meats 98-percent fat and allergen free.” when shopping, so if we make the trip Cibao Meat Products, located in the Since it began offering these items to as convenient and satisfying as pos- Bronx, NY, has been providing sausage for deli departments three years ago, it has sible, we all win. The busy consumer more than 50 years, but made the decision seen great success, as have its deli partners. who needs to make school lunches to venture off into deli, and now the com- That’s why the company will soon be offer- for their children selects the different lunch meats and cheeses and right there, while they are waiting for their deli order, we position our condiments in fulfi llment of their need.” Orlando says the more diverse a product is in usage applications, the better, as a number of Conroy Foods’ products have multiple uses, such as the Pineapple Honey Mustard, which in addition to being a great condiment with ham also makes for a great dip for soft pretzels. “Deli operators need to balance the classic condiment portfolio and also offer their own unique fl avor or sandwich-matching profi les,” he says. “Our Cranberry Honey Mustard is a huge seasonal product paired with turkey sandwiches, but deli operators are fi nding consumers enjoy this sauce year-round on their turkey sandwiches.” By giving the consumer a few more twists to the regular condiment choices and developing innovative fl a- vors that are exclusive to its program, the deli creates a signature offering to differentiate the department from its competition. DB

18 DELI BUSINESS APRIL/MAY 2019

Cover Story - Sandwiches.indd 3 4/4/19 10:38 AM Sally Sherman.indd 1 3/27/19 3:48 PM COVER STORY

cheese, tomato, spring mix, balsamic onions and chimichurri aioli on a toasted ciabatta bun. This is something Levin says supermarket delis must pay attention to and provide similar offerings to ensure they don’t send customers back to the chains.

Bread Helps Bring The “Bread” Kontos Foods Inc., which is based in Paterson, NJ, does its part for deli sandwich programs by supplying fl atbreads, pita breads, paninis and fi lo bread. A number of supermarket delis have been using these offerings to make fresh sandwiches and note a rise in sales. “We do very well with pre-grilled breads, where we make them with the grill marks already on the product, which ing pastrami and is considering other meats from animals that were humanely raised. the deli departments love. The sandwiches to provide delis with in the future. “A good example of this is Applegate can be stacked in refrigerators, because our “We are all very excited where this Organics’ Herb Turkey Breast, which is not thickness holds up well, allowing staff to new road is leading us,” says Isidor Horta. just organic and preservative-free (another pre-make the sandwiches; when the busy “We also ventured through the dairy lane trend), but also sourced from farms that time comes, they have them at the ready,” and started a cheese called Queso Jeo. It raise animals with ethics in mind,” he says. says Donna Appy, regional sales manager is the perfect companion to go with any of “That’s something many people consider for the company. “They don’t need to press our products. If you slice it thin and put it when buying and eating meats in 2019, and the sandwich, since we did that already, so on your sandwich, it is delicious. It has a one deli managers should be thinking about.” all they need to do is heat it up for a couple nice creamy texture, and it cuts smoothly. Relevantly, McAlister’s Deli, a 400-loca- of seconds, and they are out the door.” If you were to toast your sandwich, the tion American sandwich chain, recently She says any Mediterranean bread is cheese melts nice and even.” debuted a meatless Chimichurri Sandwich, very popular with today’s consumers, as Levine notes there is a trend toward the chain’s fi rst-ever plant-based protein people rarely look to white breads, opting ‘ethical’ meats, meaning the product comes sandwich that also includes Provolone instead for artisan tastes. PERFECT PICKLES Pickles have long been a “We are passionate charcuterie as well as other available in a foodservice staple at the deli counter and about our pickles and bring French specialties. size,” says Huet. “Cornich- even more so when custom- them from farm to the con- “We are selling cor- ons are different from the ers purchase a sandwich, tainer in just seven days,” nichons (French pickles) American pickles. They are because almost nothing is a says Amato. “They are hydro because these pair really sour because of the amount better complement. cooled to ensure crisp- well with charcuterie, and it of vinegar used to pickle But no longer are dill ness, vibrant in color, and is probably the favorite con- them. We always promote and sweet and sour pickles hand-packed and produced diment of French people,” them as a French classic, an dominating the market. In locally, which consumers says Morgane Huet, who indispensable part of a char- fact, over the last decade, really appreciate.” serves as marketing associ- cuterie board or sandwich. a host of new pickle fl avors Farm Ridge Foods’ col- ate for the company. The French touch and tra- have penetrated the deli, lection of fl avors includes Huet adds while corni- ditional recipes are always with everything from garlic- Atomic Spicy, Devilish Dill, chons are sold alone, in a plus, and people usually infused to hot and spicy to Sweet Autumn Spice and many stores it presents a respond positively to that.” other innovative fl avors. Wasabi Gingerm, and those sandwich recipe that incor- Patty Amato, senior vice fl avors are ever evolving. porates cornichons, such Packaging Matters president of Farm Ridge Les Trois Petits Cochons, as part of the classic French Pickles are available in a Foods, headquartered in based in Brooklyn, NY, began sandwich that includes a variety of packaging options Islandia, NY, says the com- in 1975 as a small char- baguette, butter and ham. from quarts to single serves pany has focused its efforts cuterie in Greenwich Village “We have regular corni- for grab-and-go, and many on the refrigerated pickle and continues the tradition chons and sweet and spicy delis are seeing a rise in category and is seeing of handcrafting high qual- cornichons that are sold in the individual options to go growth year after year. ity, all natural pâtés and 12.4-ounce jars and are also along with their deli sand-

20 DELI BUSINESS APRIL/MAY 2019

Cover Story - Sandwiches.indd 4 4/4/19 10:38 AM COVER STORY

“We have a gyro bread that we spray of the day, along with ingredient lists and “trigger the crave” is being used more with oil that, when heated, is very fl exible daily deals. aggressively than in the past. and is almost like a soft taco shell. We fi nd Some grocers also are teaming with Kontos Foods’ Appy says stores that younger groups are looking for products food delivery services, such as Grubhub stack pre-made sandwiches are fi nding it to like these — things different than the tra- and DoorDash, to have their sandwiches be very impactful for customers. ditional sub sandwich that sandwich shops brought directly to a customer’s home or “They are almost telling the customer offer,” says Appy. “We have a tandoori work place, further increasing business. what to buy when they see it in the display oval-shaped bread that can be layered and cases versus just seeing it up on a menu is also a favorite at the deli counter because Marketing Tips board or menu,” she says. “It’s very appetiz- it’s different.” Isidor Horta suggests that deli pro- ing, and those who are doing this are seeing Appy notes the rise in these sandwich grams market sandwiches with beautiful an increase in sales.” sales also is a big driver for Kontos’ sales, as images, which include an artisan bread and Kontos provides delis with signs that people get interested and look to buy the the meats almost coming out of the bread, highlight the health benefi ts of the breads breads to make sandwiches at home. This slices of cheese, tomatoes and lettuce with and point out unique differences. And helps increase sales in the store, as well. a side dish of freshly made fries. it also has teamed with delis for in-store “The delis are asking me for more Toufayan says a big component of a demos and tastings of different sandwiches products so they can sell it in front of the successful deli sandwich program comes utilizing their bread products. supermarket deli counter for customers to down to those in charge doing more than It’s no surprise deli departments are see- take home,” she says. just putting out signs and advertisements ing the benefi ts of offering gourmet and about what’s available. specialty sandwiches. Tech Matters “Both the more adventurous tasting “At the deli department, they make the Many supermarket delis have installed options and the healthier variations are the sandwiches fresh — where the bread is tech or turned to online ordering to help focus of the more progressive retailers,” never too hard or too soft, the lettuce is compete with the likes of Panera Bread, she says. “A number of retailers also point nice and green, the tomatoes are perfectly Cava and Chipotle Mexican Grill, allowing to the calorie content of their offerings, sliced, plus the meats and cheese have a customers to quickly place their order and when it’s relevant. This brings more people perfect balance,” says Isidor Horta. “When have it ready when they arrive. to look and buy. And that’s the goal every- someone takes their fi rst bite, they forget For example, Publix has a feature on one should be gunning for.” all of the hunger and enjoy the freshness its website and app where customers can Still, there’s nothing wrong with the of the ingredients. You can’t really get that create their sandwiches ahead of time, and old-fashioned merchandising tricks. She anywhere else.” H-E-B stores utilize its mobile app to send notes using enhanced-product beauty The opportunity is there for delis to ben- out information on the sandwich specials shots to entice potential customers and efi t from these programs.. DB

wich programs. the most innovation when it grams well. sold even better. “Lately, we have seen a comes to the pickle category “What we’re seeing all “We found the penetra- lot of grab-and-go packag- in the deli. over the grocery space that tion for the category was ing for the pickles,” says “With packaging, is impacting everywhere falling every year, but with Huet. “In a small pack, you you’re going to see more from restaurants to gro- the data available to us now, can fi nd few pickles that you on-the-go, easier to handle cery to deli is a rise in clean we discovered what gener- can eat as a snack.” from the backroom perspec- ingredients,” says Smith. ational segment we were She suggests deli tive,” he says. “You’ve seen “We set out several years losing at a faster pace, and retailers offer “buy-one-get- a lot of entry into the cool- ago to have an offering for it turned out a lot of younger one-free” specials to attract ing space, but we’re coming every customer — and even consumers were not only customers who are not out with shelf-stable, pouch though we still do about 70 not heavy consumers of the used to having pickles as pickles in single-serve and percent of high fructose corn category, but weren’t even part of their sandwich pro- multi-serve options. In the syrup products — the high- coming to the category grams, and once they do, future, we’ll also be able end stores like Wegmans are because there was no offer- they will become as normal to vary sizes based on cus- looking for something else.” ing that was clean enough,” to them as buying chips as a tomer demands.” The company started says Smith. “Now, we’re complement. Mt. Olive Pickle Co. has out with a culinary sea salt doing the fi rst full-scale Greg Smith, executive always done a healthy deli option that sold extremely organic pickle, which a lot of vice president of sales and business, working with well and put that in delis. retailers are choosing to put marketing for Mt. Olive major grocery chains and The product was followed up in their delis, so it’s a trend Pickle Co., headquartered their deli departments. Both with a clean line called Sim- that is only growing larger.” in Mt. Olive, NC, says pack- their pickles and peppers tie ply Pickles, which was free This proves that picking a aging is where we’re seeing into the deli sandwich proof all preservatives, and that pickle leads to profi ts. DB

APRIL/MAY 2019 DELI BUSINESS 21

Cover Story - Sandwiches.indd 5 4/4/19 10:39 AM FEATURE

Learn what makes this Northern Italian specialty unique BY LEE SMITH PHOTOS COURTESY OF MARCO PARISI

22 DELI BUSINESS APRIL/MAY 2019

Speck Alto Adige.indd 1 4/4/19 11:07 AM FEATURE

ocated in Northern Italy, Trentino- ham its characteristic fragrant aroma. Alto Adige or as it is also called, Before the smoking process, the thighs South Tyrol, is a peaceful auton- will be allowed to marinate for up to three omous region of Italy sharing weeks in cold rooms. During this period, the border of Switzerland and the hams will be turned, and the mar- LAustria. Its past is a series of changing inade will penetrate. At the end, salt borders, cultural diversity and raging must not be more than 5 percent of wars. Sitting on the south side of the weight. This is the process that will Alps and Dolomite Mountains, the distinguish producer from producer. terrain is beautiful and mountainous. This will be the mark of distinction. During the First World War, the area Step three occurs after the curing. was the scene of some major battles and The hams will be smoked in a traditional considered a key, strategic location. After manner using a little smoke and lots of the collapse of the Austro-Hungarian fresh air. The process will alternate war, Italian troops occupied the area, between smoking and air-drying. and it was later annexed as part of Italy Beach wood is the typical wood in 1918. used, and it is a cold smoke process. The result is a complex mix of If the temperature gets too high, the cultures. A number of languages pores of the ham will close, not allow- are spoken in this area, including ing the smoke to penetrate. Italian, German, Ladin, Mòcheno and Step four is when the hams will rest. Cimbrian. The last two are old Bavarian This long and slow curing process allows dialects. After the Roman Empire, centu- the hams to mature and develop a mild, ries before, integrated the Alps, the local sweet taste. As in the past, the cellars Rhaetian people adopted Ladin as their of South Tyrolean farms are well ven- language. Isolated, they developed tilated with mountain air, fresh and their own cultural identity. clean. The time to maturity averages The area is a unique, autonomous about 22 weeks. area of Italy with a cuisine more typ- An edible layer of mold will develop ical of Germany and Switzerland. on the rind, preventing the ham from Here, you’ll fi nd knuddels (bread dump- drying out too much. Once the hams lings), apple strudel, dark gravies, local are fi nished aging, the mold layer will be cheeses, fi ne wines and, of course, the washed off prior to packaging. It is this famous Speck Alto Adige PGI. layer of mold that allows the aging to be even. It balances out the intense fl avors Speck Alto Adige PGI and aromas. Is it any surprise that Speck Alto Step fi ve is the stringent quality checks Adige is a mixture of Mediterranean and When it comes to the spices, every pro- that assure Speck Alto Adige PGI delivers Northern European cultures? Between ducer has their own recipe, often closely on its promise of high quality and satisfi ed ancien t and modern times, Alto Adige has guarded for generations. The actual pro- consumers. Auditors have access to every been a diversifi ed mixture of many cultural duction includes fi ve separate processes. step in the process and check on every- identities. Step one is the selection of the raw thing from the fat to lean ratio, the salt Speck Alto Adige should not be con- material. The pigs are fed a specifi c diet, content, fragrance and fl avor. fused with the German speck. On the and speck is made from lean, full meat contrary, Speck Alto Adige is unique. thighs that have passed through a care- Eating Well Made from the thighs of specially-raised ful inspection. The meat must not be Keep in mind, this is not prosciutto. It is pigs, the meat must meet specifi c stan- frozen or imported from another region. uniquely Speck Alto Adige PGI. It may be dards. Speck is smoked, but it should never Each ham will be marked with its own eaten in paper-thin slices, but traditionally be confused with prosciutto from Italy. identifi cation number indicating the begin- it is cut by hand into thicker slices. Do not The process combines preserva- ning of the production process. This cut off the fat, as it is meant to be eaten. tion techniques from the Mediterranean assures the ham will be properly aged, and Many people, however, prefer to cut off and Northern Europe. From the no shortcuts are taken. the crust, as it may be strong and aromatic. Mediterranean, the hams are dry-cured Step two is the seasoning of the hams. Speck can be served as a snack by itself using salt and aged in the mountain The salt and pepper mixture remains the or with fruit, such as apples and pears, or winds. From Northern Europe comes the same for all, but each producer adds its with cheese. A perfect pairing is Asiago method of salting, smoking and seasoning own carefully-guarded recipe that includes from nearby Trentino, although any alpine- with local herbs and spices. The result is a its own mixture of spices. Typically, juni- style cow’s milk cheese will do. dry-cured ham best described as “a little per berries, rosemary, oregano and bay Speck is also used in cooking, salt, a little smoke and lots of fresh moun- leaves are used, but garlic, coriander or such as chopped and incorporated into tain air.” cumin may also be added. This gives the dumplings. DB

APRIL/MAY 2019 DELI BUSINESS 23

Speck Alto Adige.indd 2 4/4/19 11:07 AM FEATURE Guacamole’s Popularity Continues to Grow This heart-healthy dip or spread spells opportunity. BY BOB JOHNSON

quarter of a billion avocados are consumed on that day known as Super Bowl Sunday, as guacamole has become standard communion fare at this end of the football season celebration. Avocados have gone mainstream in a big way, and the deli is well-positioned to feature the many uses of the creamy dip Aor spread made with this delicious but nutritious fruit. “Guacamole has been growing, both in deli and throughout the grocery store and has seen very strong growth in foodservice, as well,” says Neha Goradia, associate marketing director at Sabra Dipping Co., White Plains, NY. Sabra started as a hummus manufacturer in 1986 in Astoria Queens, NY, and over the decades developed a number of flavor pro- files that allowed it to become the category leader and play a major role in taking the traditional Middle Eastern spread mainstream.

An Increasing Opportunity The versatile, rough-skinned avocado has been discovered as a rare item — a delicious, heart-healthy source of cholesterol-free fat, which has led to greater interest in this incredibly popular dip. “Overall, refrigerated guacamole sales are continuing to increase in both the deli and produce sections of the store, which is predom- inately where refrigerated guacamole is sold in retail stores,” says Diana Pusiri, brand manager for Wholly Guacamole, a subsidiary of Hormel Foods, Austin, MN.

24 DELI BUSINESS APRIL/MAY 2019

Guacamole.indd 1 4/4/19 11:22 AM Yucatan.indd 1 4/2/19 9:32 AM FEATURE

“The growing sales can be attributed to an increase in U.S. households that are purchasing refrigerated guacamole — current household penetration rate is around 22 percent, which is up a little under 5 percent.” Guacamole in the supermarket deli can be particularly inviting as an ingredient that adds something special to fare served at a social gathering. “Deli is a convenient section of the store for people to grab quick items for a gathering,” says Pusiri. “In comparison to guacamole that is sold in the produce section, deli guacamole over indexes with party or group occasions. Many delis offer their own store-packed guacamole, which often uses a combination of prepared guacamole and other fresh ingredients.” While a number of producers offer bulk or consumer packs, some supermarket delis take advantage of their unique opportunity to offer the freshest possible guacamole by making it in- house using ripe or even over-ripe avocados from the produce department. “The retailers I’m aware of are bringing avocados to their store and taking them from the produce department to the deli for guacamole when they are ripe,” says Jan DeLyser, vice president of marketing at the California Avocado Commission, Irvine, CA. “There is a trend toward fresh guacamole, prepared in their deli. They are using avocados that are guacamole ready. They might even be too ripe to eat, but they are perfect for guacamole. It’s an opportunity to reduce shrink. The flavor profile is awe- some, because it is fresh.” Although Mexico produces most of the avocados eaten in the United States, California farmers account for the lion’s share of the domestic harvest, with 50,000 acres planted almost entirely in the variety first sold by Southern California mail car- rier Rudolph Hass. Hoping to augment his pay deliver- ing the mail in Pasadena in the mid 1920s, Hass used every dollar he had and a few borrowed from his sister Ida Hass, to buy an acre-and-a-half orchard of avocados of the Fuerte variety, which was the standard of the day. He discovered what has become the dominant variety by accident. One of the seeds he bought from a local nursery was a highly productive and manageable-off type that Hass gave his name before he took out a patent and planted 80 acres in the Fallbrook area near San Diego, which is still

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Guacamole.indd 2 4/4/19 11:22 AM FEATURE

a center of domestic avocado production. The California Avocado Commission The Hass Avocado Board has helps market this fruit from the state’s 3,000 avocado growers under the slogan set the lofty goal of doubling ‘A Taste of California.’ “When we are in season, some of the stores are putting up ‘Made With California consumption, from 7 to 14 Avocados’ signs by the guacamole,” says DeLyser. “We’re seeing more and more pounds per capita, in the four guacamole in the stores.” The Hass Avocado Board offers doz- short years from 2017 to 2021. ens of recipes, including many for mild to spicy guacamole, and for dozens of dishes that include guacamole as an ingredient. The growing popularity of guaca- of more than 75 a year, with the news that The major suppliers offer recipes and mole and avocados is off the charts: The avocados are good for you; outpacing even ideas for the deli to expand its use of gua- U.S. Department of Agriculture Foreign taste, appearance and price in reasons for camole or pass on to the customers. Agricultural Service forecasts imports of customer purchase. “We continue to see a lot of oppor- more than 4 billion pounds of avocados The U.S. guacamole market has already tunity to expand on the already strong from Mexico in the 2018-2019 season. reached around $375 million, according to popularity of guacamole by sharing recipes U.S. retail avocado sales in dollars Chicago-based IRI market research, and and inspiring guacamole uses on menus in increased nearly 32 percent more than the the opportunity has attracted a number of more creative ways,” says Sabra’s Goradia. previous year in the quarter ending Sept. large and medium-sized firms competing One of the Sabra recipes helps expand 30, 2018, according to Hass Avocado for supermarket and deli business. the use of guacamole to the breakfast hour Board statistics, which easily outpaced Over the last decade, the Strauss Group as the featured ingredient in the increas- tangerines as the fastest growing fruit. and PepsiCo acquired the Sabra brand and ingly popular avocado toast. The Hass Avocado Board has set the lofty expanded the hummus leader to become a goal of doubling consumption, from 7 to 14 dipping company producing, in addition to The Full Display pounds per capita, in the four short years hummus, a line of guacamole. A full display in the deli should include, from 2017 to 2021. In addition to the PepsiCo and Strauss in addition to generous portions appropri- The Hass Avocado Board annual con- Group operation, Santa Clara, CA-based ate for a social gathering, small packages sumer survey demonstrates the strong Landec’s Apio unit late last year acquired suitable for a single person. position this fruit has already gained in the Yucatan, which markets guacamole under “Guacamole is often sold in a tub con- marketplace. its Yucatan and Cabo Fresh brands, and a tainer, which is great for sharing, but we Although Hispanics are the strongest decade ago Hormel and Herdez del Fuerte also make guacamole available in single market, more than 70 percent of non-His- formed MegaMex Foods, which produces containers for individual use, and we get panics buy avocados at least monthly, and salsas, sauces, tortillas, peppers and dress- a lot of positive feedback for that,” notes this group consumes an increasing average ings, in addition to guacamole. DB Goradia. “People are on-the-go and often use guacamole on a pretty regular basis, even outside of larger gatherings, so individual servings are appreciated.” Guacamole can be used as an ingredient in deli sandwiches or salads and can also be the mainstay in a variety of grab- and-go deli snack products. “In our newer offerings, we pair Sabra’s popular Guacamole Snackers with Tostitos for a snack, and one of the most exciting new offerings has been Sabra’s Breakfast Avocado Toast — a blend of Hass avocados ready-to-spread and paired with crusty whole grain toasts,” says Goradia. “It is a convenient on-the-go breakfast snack.” Smaller packs expand the range of uses for guacamole as a convenient grab-and-go snack item. “There are many opportunities for guacamole in foodservice deli programs,” says Pusiri. “It is great as a spread or a quick add-on using Wholly Guacamole Minis.”

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Guacamole.indd 3 4/4/19 11:22 AM CHEESE CORNER

Highlighting Flavorful American Blue Cheese

It pays to become familiar with domestic varieties that provide added sales opportunities for delis BY HANNAH HOWARD

hen it comes to products, there are few as polarizing as Blue cheese. Whether you crave them or crinkle up your nose at the very thought, Blue cheeses have a rich, Wancient history. Legend goes that a busy shepherd neglected his lunch of bread and cheese one day in a cave sometime in the 7th century. A few months later, he returned to ﬁ nd his cheese had become a vibrant shade of blue-green. It had been inoculated with penicillium roqueforti, a mold that was naturally growing in the cave, and that today is injected into wheels like Roquefort (with intention and precise control). Salty, funky, satisfying Blue cheese gets its color from one of two species of mold: Penicillium roqueforti or Penicillium glaucum. Either way, the mold thrives on the proteins in milk in miniscule cracks and holes in an environment with almost no oxygen. Often, cheesemakers pierce their young wheels to allow pathways for the mold to grow — a process called needling. Blue cheeses are often made with a higher salt recipe than non-Blue wheels, as the salt slows down the Blue molds from taking over the cheese too fast, allowing the wheels to develop complexity without becoming overly blue.

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Blue cheeses can span a wide range of flavors and textures, from spicy and fudgy to sweet and crumbly. They can be made Blue cheeses can span a with milk from goats, cows, sheep or even buffalo. Their “blue” may vary in hue from wide range of flavors and grey to green to a deep purplish. Some Blues hit you over the head (and nose) with their intensity, while others are more sub- textures, from spicy and tle. In other words, it’s a big, wide world of Blue cheese. fudgy to sweet and crumbly. From the Old World The most classic styles of Blue cheese are Roquefort, Gorgonzola and Stilton, which come from France, Italy and England respectively. All three remain highly sought after. But more and more quality cheese is “We also make a six-month aged Blue and cheese is made from cow’s milk sourced being produced in the United States every a smoked Blue in small batches, which are from the farm’s own herd. The wheels’ year, and Blue cheese is no exception. The earthy and tangy and perfect for topping creamy paste is intersected with bright Old World may have written the great steaks and salads,” says Heather Engwall, sapphire bluing and its flavor is acidic, sharp Cheese Canon, but American cheesemak- vice president of marketing for Emmi Roth, and balanced. ers are dreaming up and crafting cheeses based in Fitchburg, WI. “Earlier this year, Point Reyes Farmstead Cheese Co. in delicious enough to rival any dairy across we also acquired a Blue cheese plant in Point Reyes Station, CA, makes a vari- the Atlantic. Seymour, WI, which has allowed us to ety of Blue cheeses on their farm 40 Roth Cheese in Wisconsin is known for expand our Blue cheese production.” miles north of San Francisco, perched on making a variety of Blue cheeses, includ- Buttermilk Blue is one of the many Tomales Bay, which opens onto the Pacific ing Buttermilk Blue, a flagship Blue that’s acclaimed American Blues. Maytag Blue is Ocean. Its dense, creamy Original Blue has cellar-aged for two months for a slightly one of the originals, crafted since 1941 by become an American classic. It starts out tangy, exceptionally creamy Blue cheese. Maytag Dairy Farms in Newton, IA. The sweet and finishes savory. Their Bay Blue

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takes its inspiration from Stilton, with a natural rind and fudgy texture. It has a rich The many possibilities for earthiness and just a hint of caramel. In Central Point, OR, Rogue Creamery merchandising Blue cheese crafts their Rogue River Blue only in autumn, when the cow’s rich milk is ideal for making this cheese. The wheels are echo the myriad ways it can wrapped in pear-brandy-soaked grape leaves, and the texture becomes slightly crystallized as the cheese ages. They also be served and enjoyed. make a Smokey Blue Cheese, which gets its smoky, nutty and savory flavor from a long cold smoking over shells from local Oregon hazelnuts. There are plenty more high-quality — from a cheese plate to salad topping, or of recipes. From dips to salads, Blue cheese American Blues to discover, and it’s best to balancing the flavor as an ingredient in a is a way to add just a bit of funk and per- sample as many as possible. main course. sonality to dishes. It can temper the heat in The many possibilities for merchandis- a spicy dish, balance bitter greens in a salad Don’t Be Afraid of Blue ing Blue cheese echo the myriad ways it and amplify the natural sweetness of fruit. Unfortunately, Blue cheeses can make can be served and enjoyed. For the pur- It works well in a salad with arugula and shoppers squeamish. “Blue cheese is a ists — drizzle with honey or place atop a ripe peaches or plums — the sweet fruit is cheese that some people are afraid to try,” cracker or slice of baguette. The sweetness a great complement to the salty cheese. A notes Engwall. “I think by showcasing the of honey provides a welcome contrast to buttermilk Blue cheese dip kicks up a plate varied flavor profile of these cheeses and the piquant salinity of Blue cheese. Blue of crudité or wings. A crumble of Blue adds the numerous applications, retailers can cheese also shines on a cheese plate with depth to roast sweet potatoes, and Blue help educate consumers.” She suggests walnuts, dried fruit and honeycomb. For cheese makes a dish of mac and cheese feel beginning by introducing new consumers an unexpected but crowd-pleasing pairing, just a little bit grown-up. It makes a wel- to milder flavored Blue cheeses and high- serve it with dark chocolate. come addition to a steak or burge and is lighting the variety of ways it can be served Blue cheese also shines in a wide array even better with caramelized onions. “Cheese can sometimes be overwhelm- ing simply because there are many varieties to choose from,” explains Engwall. Educating the consumer on how the cheese can be used — either with information on the product packaging or through in-store demos, signage and cross-merchandising with crackers, nuts, jams and beverages — is a great way to help initiate trial and lead to purchase. As for beverages, aromatic Viognier or Riesling are a great match for a milder Blue. When it comes to bolder, funkier cheeses, Sauternes and Port are classic pairings — and make for an elegant dessert. Dark beers like porter or stout also stand up to big Blue cheeses. The piercing acidity of Ice Wine and the fig notes of Pedro Ximénez Sherry are excellent foils for the spiciness that can be found in Blue cheese. Blue cheese has quite a long shelf life — it is mold, after all. Soft-ripened varieties are often good for a month or two once they arrive at a store, whereas firmer cheese wheels usually last for about six months or longer. How can you tell what mold is good mold? The paste of the cheese should be white and creamy; if it has become pink, green, brown or very yellow, it’s past its prime. By that time, it should be sold. DB

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The Packaging Predicament

It can be a challenge developing sustainable containers that enhance shelf life and merchandising, but innovative materials and processes are hitting all the marks BY LISA WHITE

s deli department offerings have ing their own version of meal kits, either age dump is made up of packaging material, evolved, so has the packaging used partnering with a meal kit provider or cre- according to a study by the University of to contain its food offerings. ating their own signature program,” says Southern Indiana in Evansville. Every year, Much of this is in response to the Rebecca Casey, vice president of market- each American throws out about 1,200 current trends in prepared foods. ing and consumer market development at pounds of organic garbage that can be AFor example, the meal kit market is pre- TC Transcontinental Packaging, Montreal. composted. The United States is the top dicted to grow substantially through 2022, “In-store meal kits meet the needs of trash-producing country in the world at according to a report by Radiant Insights, on-the-go consumers that have little time 1,609 pounds per person per year. which is expected to have a big impact on to search for recipes, shop for groceries or “Our focus, and what we’re see- containers and packaging. measure each ingredient.” ing others in the industry focusing on, is “Just in the last year, we are seeing Sustainability also continues to be a trying to determine how to reduce plas- more retailers competing for their share of focus with deli product packaging, and for tic usage in packaging while still keeping the 4.7 billion meal kit industry by introduc- good reason. About one-third of an aver- food safe, fresh and appealing to consum-

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ers,” says Peggy Cross, founder and chief executive of EcoTensil, a Corte Madera, Packaging today is not CA-based company. only being designed to Key Characteristics Packaging today is not only being designed to be greener and more func- be greener and more tional, but also safer. “Tamper evident and convenience packaging are trends we are seeing in the functional, but also safer. marketplace and something that is becoming more prevalent in deli packaging,” says features continue to drive innovation in can determine on their own how fresh and Derek Skogen, marketing manager at flexible packaging. healthy the product is. Seeing the product Madison, WI-based Placon. “Attributes such as zippers, handles, through packaging also provides inspiration Safety has been predominant in Lake spouts, and venting for microwaving and for consumers.” Forest, IL-based Pactiv’s R&D. oven cook-in can be added to the bags and “Safety is a big concern for deli opera- pouches,” notes Casey. “Also, single-serve A Sustainable Focus tions,” says Mark Spencer, Pactiv’s director and controlled-portion packaging appeals Probably the biggest emphasis in the of category management. to several different consumer demograph- packaging industry overall is sustainability. Value-added packaging alternatives also ics. They allow consumers to snack healthy As a result, there have been recent devel- are coming to the forefront in deli depart- without being concerned with measuring opments on the material side as well as ments, with an increased focus on prepared to determine the nutritional content of a with designs to minimize the impact on the foods as well as meal kits. single-serving size.” environment. “If the meal needs accompanying Packaging that can help control or main- With the continued reduction of plas- starches or sides, everyone wants it all mer- tain temperature of the product in addition tic use, a number of companies are seeking chandised conveniently together. That’s to increasing shelf life is also important in greener materials that are recyclable, com- why we are seeing more product in val- the deli. postable and marine degradable. ue-added packaging solutions, which are Finally, transparency in deli food pack- One recent development is plant-based offered more today than ever before,” says aging with see-through windows continues plastics. Although these don’t break down Casey at TC Transcontinental Packaging. to grow. in the ocean, they are compostable in indus- Going hand in hand with value adds “Going beyond just the listed ingre- trial facilities and a step up from traditional are convenience features, such as easy- dients on the label, it’s also important to plastic. Called PLA or polylactic acid, this to-open, re-sealable, portability and consumers to see the physical product biodegradable, bioactive thermoplastic ali- one-handed use features. Convenience before purchasing,” says Casey. “They phatic polyester is derived from renewable

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biomass generally from a fermented plant starch, such as corn, sugarcane or sugar beet pulp. Tight lids, leak resistance “PLA is better than poly-based plastic, since it comes from plants instead of petro- and tamper-evidence features leum, but it only breaks down in industrial compost facilities and not in the ocean are becoming standard on or in nature,” says Cross at EcoTensil. “Paperboard with SFC or SFI certification today’s deli product packaging. is preferable, because the paper is coming from certified, sustainably-managed forests. We are seeing an industry shift attention now so retailers are not suddenly N Done bags were developed to offer toward development of more affordable trying to play catch-up in complying with supermarkets the opportunity to pack- barrier paperboard that has truly com- new regulations or more sudden shifts in age fresh seafood or poultry meals with postable and/or recyclable capability, as consumer demand.” vegetables using their own stores’ chef-in- this is a potentially Holy Grail solution for Much of the conversation is centered on spired recipes, spices and seasonings. The much deli packaging.” compostable versus recyclable materials. bag, offered in black or a brown Kraft Paperboard is becoming more common While both methods are environmentally design, can go directly in the oven or the in Europe for the production of salad trays friendly ways to handle waste and keep it microwave. and sandwich containers. out of landfills, composting turns organic Pactiv’s Earth Choice brand is made “Consumers are demand- waste into usable materials, while recycling out of recycled PET. The square-shaped ing sustainable products that are takes manufactured product and turns it containers are available in 8- to 64-ounce recyclable or compostable,” says Casey into something that can be reused. There sizes. The company also offers two poly- at TC Transcontinental Packaging. “They are different capabilities and regulations, propylene containers in large and medium wish to contribute to a better environ- depending on the municipality with both. sizes for hot bars or grab-and-go sections. ment, starting with what they consume. Still, changes in materials that impact According to Pactiv’s Spencer, small- However, they are also asking to under- packaging can be swift, as with the recent sized rotisserie chicken packages are stand how recycling works, and how they plastic bag and straw bans. getting bigger. can make a significant impact. There are “Consumers also are becoming “Smaller-size containers are getting a definitely opportunities to educate them on more aware regarding misleading com- bit larger to have extra capacity for more the topic.” munications,” says Cross. “In the past, protein,” he says. “Also, because today’s Bans on certain materials mean the they might have looked at a spoon that’s packaging needs to enhance what’s inside, changeover to sustainable alternatives may beige and assumed it’s sustainable when clear lids are important to allow more not be optional for long. it’s not. Consumers are wising up, and product visibility.” In response, there have been a number their demands can happen fast, as we’ve Tight lids, leak resistance and tamper- of production changes to accommodate seen with bags and straws, or the very evidence features are becoming standard the evolving market. public outcry around specific companies.” on today’s deli product packaging, as well. “Thermoformed packaging helps main- Retailers are looking to be a destination To meet market needs, Placon recently tain longer shelf life and can be recycled into and provide the consumer with an experi- launched a new GoCubes product line something new,” says Skogen. “At Placon, ence to drive traffic in-store. They are also that offers an 8-inch packaging option that we are taking post-consumer PET bot- looking for packaging that can be used in is designed for salads and meal kit single or tles and thermoforms and processing them online grocery pick-up and delivery. two-person portions. They are equipped back into a usable PET, FDA food-grade “Besides convenience and portabil- with one to four insert tray compartment approved package for salads, sandwiches ity, retailers also have to look at the size options that hold wet or dry ingredients to and other deli products.” of packaging. Households, especially be added during meal preparation. Millennials, are now just one to two people “When consumers are ready to prepare Recent Innovations and represent two-thirds of all U.S. house- their meal, they simply remove the lid from New technology and material inno- holds,” says Casey at TC Transcontinental the GoCubes, add any insert tray ingredi- vations have been instrumental in the Packaging. “They are more and more look- ents, and their meal is ready to eat,” says development of packaging that meets the ing at reducing their food waste, which Skogen. “GoCubes also can work with necessary criteria. smaller packaging could allow them to do.” our SnackCubes packaging that allows for At this year’s Packaging Innovation TC Transcontinental Packaging has smaller ounces and portion control.” trade show in London, there was a big created a couple lines geared for deli and Placon’s HomeFresh Entrée line fea- buzz around the EU’s ban on single-use designed with consumers’ needs in mind. tures a microwavable and vented lid option plastic, which will be implemented by 2021. Its Hot N Handy bag for chicken uses for reheating and on-the-go convenience. “In response, I think we’ll see a big perforation and film technologies and fea- With the packaging segment continu- impact in the United States with even tures a pouch to keep product fresh and ing to evolve, it’s essential to keep an eye more innovation,” says Cross at EcoTensil. juicy in a typical heated display case at the on changing trends, regulations impacting “There will be more pressure here to grocery stores. It also can be reheated in materials and new products that may be reduce plastic in packaging. It’s wise to pay the microwave and is leak proof. Its Oven game changers in the department. DB

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Packaging.indd 3 4/4/19 12:50 PM DELI MEAT

the USA PHOTO COURTESY OF PILLERS Spotlighting Salami made in the usa Five ways to upsell shoppers on this popular salted, artisan-flavored deli meat. BY CAROL BAREUTHER

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alting, fermenting and air-drying are among mankind’s oldest food preservation techniques. In Roman times, pork prepared in this way was part of a group of Sfoods called ‘salsum’ or salted. It’s from this ancient term that we get the word ‘salami.’ Fast forward through the ages and salami making spreads throughout Europe. Germany, Hungary, France, Spain and especially Italy are known for its salamis. Salami making crossed the pond to America in the early 20th century, when Italian immigrants brought this culinary craft with them. Then, the country fell into what some producers call the ‘scary days’ of the 1970’s and 1980’s. This is when much of the deli salami in mainstream supermarkets was mass produced to suit less adventurous American palates and, thus, lost a chunk of its rich storyline. Today, and over the past five to 10 years, a renaissance has been happening. That is, some U.S. and Canadian producers haven taken grandfather’s old country recipe and used carefully curated ingredients and curing methods to produce artisan salami products with both traditional and trendy flavors. It’s no wonder that, in 2017, salami ranked as the fifth most popular American deli meat, after turkey, ham, beef and chicken, according to What’s In Store 2019, published by the Madison, WI-headquartered International Dairy Deli Bakery Association (IDDBA). Following are tips to capitalize on this popular deli favorite.

1. Sell The Artisan Flavor Taste experience is driving the growth of artisanal salamis, says David Brandow, director of international sales for Piller’s Fine Foods, makers of Black Kassel brand meats, based in Waterloo, Ontario, Canada. “The time-honored traditions in producing these authentic products allow for the complex flavors to develop and mature and provides a taste experience much like consumers’ experience with fine wines, craft beers and fine cheeses. These unique taste experiences cannot be achieved in cooked products that are produced in a day.” Shoppers are also looking for unique flavors. For example, Tempesta Artisan Salumi, co-founded in 2014 in Chicago by fifth generation father and son Italian salumi makers, Agostino and Antonio

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Fiasche, first introduced Nduja. This spreadable salami spiked with Calabrian Clean-labeled and better- peppers cannot be imported into the United States from Italy. Beyond this, the duo’s for-you salami products are first experimentation outside of custom- arily seasoned salami was their ‘Nostrano,’ meaning ‘our own,’ Pink Peppercorn key to artisan production Salame, which offers a slight sweetness. More recently, the company developed its Salami di Manzo, made from 100 per- for U.S. producers. cent American Wagyu beef seasoned with black pepper, thyme and Cabernet wine, for customers who don’t eat pork. “Quality and taste are most important,” says Matt Reilly, Tempesta’s national sales nitrites from our products,” says Deanna deli operators need to figure out how to director. “Just because a salami is imported Depke, marketing manager and fourth tell the story and romance the products. doesn’t automatically make it better than generation of family-owned Volpi Foods, More specifically, because of the high cost one produced in the United States.” in St. Louis. per pound, operators need to show that Clean-labeled and better-for-you salami a little salami goes a long way, that cus- products, such as those made from heri- 2. Create An Entertaining tomers shouldn’t think about the $24 per tage breed pigs raised without antibiotics Destination pound price because one-quarter pound and fed a 100 percent vegetarian diet as Salami is mostly consumed as the cen- is only $6 and that can be a lot of great well as those labeled natural, gluten-free terpiece of a charcuterie platter, says Al tasting salami. Restaurants charge a lot for and with no nitrates or nitrites added, Adelson, vice president of sales for Veroni charcuterie, so consumers can enjoy, for a are key to artisan production for U.S. USA, Inc., a Swedesboro, NJ-based slicer fraction of restaurant prices, creating their producers. and repacker of Italian-made salami. “It’s own platters at home.” “We have remained an industry leader possible to create great in-store theater A great way to do this is through atten- in terms of removing synthetic nitrates and with charcuterie, however supermarket tion-getting displays.

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“Marketplaces are using their artisan alongside the artisan salami to drive sales salami sets to help transform the over- for customers looking to have a culinary “Data shows all appearance in their deli and specialty experience with their salami.” cheese sections to create a one-stop solu- Piller’s Fine Foods sells its Black Kassel tion for entertaining the taste buds for brand salami in eye-catching shapes, such meat snacks any occasion,” says Evan Inada, customer as flowers, hearts, squares and diamonds. marketing manager for Columbus Craft These can make deli-made chartcuterie skew younger, Meats, a Hayward, CA-based brand of boards, or those customers make at home, the Hormel Foods Corp., headquartered Instagram worthy. in Austin, MN. “Merchandise great pair- “We also provide a detailed flavor pro- with 60 ings, such as olives, crackers and breads, file of each of our salamis and a pairing percent being consumed by 18- to 34-year-olds.” — David Brandow, Piller’s Fine Foods

guide of complementary food and beverages,” says Piller’s Fine Foods’ Brandow.

3. Promote As A Grab-And-Go Snack Snacking, and in particular meat snacks, has had tremendous growth since 2012, according to Brandow. “Consumers today are seeking a good source of on-the-go protein. Data shows meat snacks skew younger, with 60 percent being consumed by 18- to 34-year-olds. We have launched our traditional salamis in meat-snack for- mats that have been received very well. However, meat sticks and options that provide a softer, easier-to-chew texture may open up consumption across other demographics.” To this point, Volpi Foods offers its Roltini Singles, which includes spicy salami wrapped around a Mozzarella cheese stick. These snacks are packaged 1.5-ounces each and are sold 12 to a pack. This spring, Principe Foods Inc., USA, in Long Beach, CA, will introduce a six- item line of pre-sliced antibiotic-free snack salami in 3-ounce packs. Four of these are imported — Genoa, fennel salami, soppressata and hot soppressata, and two are made in the United States — pepperoni and chorizo. All are sliced in the United States for a longer shelf life. “The pre-sliced business, especially the snack segment, is growing, and I think you’ll see products such as these

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transform the wall deli in years to come,” says Alberto Minardi, Principe’s chief executive. “These products can also be merchandised in the cheese case, in the dairy case or in the meat department.”

4. Open Shoppers’ Eyes To All The Possibilities Salami isn’t just for charcuterie platters and snacking. There’s a full menu of other usages that can lend to creative merchandising in both the supermarket’s deli and prepared foods department. “Salumi is being used as a sexy ingredient to complement salads and roasted meats because of the umami that slow- cured meats add to any dish,” says Columbus Craft Meats’ Inada. Artisan sandwiches, paninis, pasta dishes, unique pizza toppings and even garnishes for craft cocktails are innovative cases at Eataly locations in New York City and celebration.” ways chefs are using salami today, notes and Boston. “When your staff plays with This product has a history that dates to Volpi Foods’ Depke. and understands a product, they are better the 13th century, when sausage from hogs Out-of-the-box usages, such as a equipped to educate customers and sell it.” harvested in the fall was lightly smoked Scotch egg wrapped in Nduja rather than over select hardwoods, along with spices sausage before being breaded and deep- 5. Take Advantage Of Seasonality like nutmeg and white pepper, to provide a fried and Nduja spread on fresh Mozzarella Much like the way consumers covet product with an initial subtle pepper flavor and rolled up pinwheel style, are gaining special vintages of wines and spirits at finished by nutty overtones. It was a lux- traction. “These are a few of the things my specific times of the year, this is now ury food in the cold of winter for European chefs came up with when I let them play spilling over into food products, accord- villagers. This dry-aged premium salami, with the product,” says Tempesta’s Reilly, a ing to Piller’s Fine Foods’ Brandow. “We produced in the same way and packaged in Culinary Institute of America-trained chef launched special ‘Winter Salami,’ which an 8-ounce chub, comes in a wood veneer who managed the Salumi and Formaggi lends itself perfectly to social gatherings box with a gift tag. DB

PHOTO COURTESY OF OLLI SALUMERIA

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Salami.indd 5 4/4/19 1:02 PM BLAST FROM THE PAST True To Its Roots or more than 26 years, Partners, A Tasteful Choice Co., has been rolling out artisan slow-baked crackers. It all started in 1972, when founder, Marian Harris was running a small busi- Fness in downtown Seattle. Unable to ﬁ nd a casual restaurant serving high-quality, affordable lunches, she opened one herself. Harris couldn’t ﬁ nd quality crackers to accompany her home- made soups and salads, so she developed a recipe and started making her own. The crackers proved so popular, people took them home by the bagful. After many years as a respected restaurateur, Harris sold her business. One rainy, blustery day in the fall of 1992, Harris sorted a batch of her crackers and set out to visit eight stores with the samples. Her Marian Harris with her son Greg circa 1994. determination and products resulted in seven orders, and Partners, A Tasteful Choice Co., was born. She named it Partners because Partners operates a state-of-the-art, eco-friendly, 150,000- the crackers were a perfect “partner” for any food. square-foot bakery near Seattle. The company has developed six To meet demand, Harris recruited her son, Greg. He offered to different brands featuring a wide variety of non-GMO, gourmet help for a couple of weeks and today is vice president of operations. artisan crackers and cookies, including organic, low fat and aller- The company grew rapidly, and by the summer of ‘93, Marian’s gy-friendly options. These award-winning products are slow-baked daughter Cara committed to helping for three years. She is now its and sold in all 50 states and around the world. DB president.

Blast From The Past is a regular feature of Deli Business. We welcome submissions of your old photos, labels or advertisements along with a brief description of the photo. Please send material to: Editor, DELI BUSINESS, P.O. Box 810217, Boca Raton, FL 33481-0217 or email [email protected]. For more information contact us at (561) 994-1118.

GENERAL POLICIES Advertisers and advertising agencies agree and accept responsibility for all statements and product claims made in their advertisements for themselves or their organizations. The publisher is not responsible, nor does he necessarily agree with any of the opinions or statements expressed in such advertisements. Advertisers and advertising agencies agree to accept responsibility for all content of such advertisements, and agree to assume liability involving any claims arising from such advertising that are made against the publisher. Advertiser and advertising agencies agree to indem- nify the publisher and to hold him harmless and to defend him from any such claim or claims, and to be responsible for the payment of any expenses or legal fees incurred by the publisher associated with such legal action or claims. The publisher reserves the right to accept or reject advertising that he believes does not meet the publication’s standards. Advertising appearing in editorial format may or may not be accepted by the publisher, and if published will be properly labeled “advertisement.” Publisher is not liable for non-delivery or delays, caused by any federal or state agency or association, or by ﬁ re, ﬂ ood, riot, explosion, strike, embargo, either legal or illegal, material or labor shortage, transportation or work interruption or slowdown, or any condition or act of God affecting delivery and beyond the control of the publisher. INFORMATION SHOWCASE Receive supplier information fast using the Deli Business Information Showcase. Here’s How: Contact the advertiser directly via the website, email, phone or fax listed in the ad. COMPANY PAGE# CATEGORY PHONE BelGioioso Cheese, Inc...... 29 ...... Cheese ...... 877-863-2123 Cibao Meat Products ...... 18 ...... Hispanic Deli Meats ...... 718-993-5072 Columbus Foods, Inc...... 9 ...... Salami & Deli Meat ...... 510-921-3417 Conroy Foods...... 15 ...... Condiments ...... 412-781-1446 Crave Bros ...... 32 ...... Farmstead Cheese ...... 920-478-4887 Dietz & Watson Inc...... 17 ...... Deli Meats ...... 800-333-1974 George E. DeLallo Co...... 44 ...... Olives ...... 800-433-9100 Gourmet Foods ...... 2 ...... Cheese ...... 404-954-7698 LaPanzanella ...... 11...... Flatbreads ...... 206-322-6760 Piller Sausages & Delicatessens Ltd. ....40 ...... Deli Meats ...... 800-265-2628 Placon ...... 35 ...... Packaging...... 800-541-1535 Sally Sherman Foods ...... 19 ...... Salads ...... 914-664-6262 Uncommon Flavors ...... 31 ...... Cheese Veroni ...... 39 ...... Italian Salami ...... 646-256-2638 Yucatan Foods ...... 25 ...... Guacamole ...... 310-837-2300

42 DELI BUSINESS APRIL/MAY 2019

Blast3.indd 1 4/5/19 5:29 PM CCH for Deli.indd 1 3/27/19 3:28 PM DeLallo.indd 1 3/27/19 3:23 PM BLAST FROM THE PAST Caputo Crafting Customized Distinction aputo Cheese began in 1978 as a small retail cheese shop sell- 5,000-square-foot facility in Chicago to a 50,000-square-foot build- ing small bulk domestic and imported cheeses. The owners, ing in Melrose Park, IL. A big change in the company came in 1994, René and Pasquale Caputo soon began providing processed as Natale Caputo, son of René and Pasquale, became Caputo’s pres- Cand blended cheese to food distributors and manufacturers. Initially, ident, while Pasquale took on the role of CEO. Nat took off running these cheeses included Parmesan, Romano and Mozzarella, but and decided to continue growing the Caputo legacy by opening the expanded to include other cheeses as well as Italian specialties such Caputo Cheese Market in Melrose Park that same year as oils, vinegars, pastas and spices. Nat knew that one of the best ways to control the product was Substantial expansion took place in 1991, growing from a to start caring for it himself and so, in 2004 , a 30,000-square-foot temperature- and humidity-controlled cooler was added for aging and storing hard Italian cheese. The cooler can hold 2,100 pallets and some 5.5 million pounds of cheese. To satisfy a need in his own community of Lake Forest, Nat and the Caputo team opened a second Cheese Market in 2009. Caputo is always looking to expand. In 2019, they created a professional kitchen for chefs to come in and do their own research and development, and they’ve just opened their online store featuring several hundred cheeses, vinegars, spices and other culinary essentials. From the classic grated cheeses to the award-winning Fresh Mozzarella, Caputo products possess the quality, ﬂ avor and consis- tency that only high standards and family pride can produce. DB

INFORMATION SHOWCASE Receive supplier information fast using the Deli Business Information Showcase. Here’s How: Contact the advertiser directly via the website, email, phone or fax listed in the ad.

COMPANY PAGE# CATEGORY PHONE COMPANY PAGE# CATEGORY PHONE

American Cheese Society ...... 89 ...... Trade Association ...... 502-583-3783 McKenzie Country Classics ...... 87 ...... Natural Meats ...... 617-889-1600 BelGioioso Cheese, Inc...... 61 ...... Cheese ...... 877-863-2123 Nueske’s Hillcrest Farm’s Meats ...... 80 ...... Smoked Meats ...... 715-253-4006 Blount Fine Foods ...... 13 ...... Soups ...... 800-274-2526 Piller Sausages & Delicatessens Ltd... 88 ...... Deli Meats ...... 800-265-2628 Campofrio Food Group America...... 75 ...... Deli Meats ...... 804-520-7775 Placon ...... 91 ...... Packaging ...... 800-541-1535 Cibao Meat Products ...... 84 ...... Hispanic Deli Meats ...... 718-993-5072 Pomi USA ...... 2 ...... Tomatoes ...... 732-541-4115 Columbus Foods, Inc...... 73 ...... Salami & Deli Meat ...... 510-921-3417 Sally Sherman Foods ...... 53 ...... Salads ...... 914-664-6262 Conroy Foods ...... 47 ...... Condiments...... 412-781-1446 Simply Fresh Foods ...... 56 ...... Refrigerated Salsa & Dips ...... 714-562-5000 Country Fresh Inc...... 15 ...... Fresh Meal Kit ...... 281-453-3300 Stella Foods Inc...... 17 ...... Cheese ...... 800-863-4094 Crave Bros ...... 64 ...... Farmstead Cheese ...... 920-478-4887 Toufayan Bakeries, Inc...... 39 ...... Pita Chips ...... 800-328-7482 European Union ...... 63 ...... Cheese & Prosciutto ...... 646-218-6025 Tribe Mediterranean Foods ...... 25 ...... Hummus ...... 800-8-HUMMUS Fratelli Beretta USA ...... 79 ...... Italian Specialties...... 201-438-0723 Uncommon Flavors ...... 67 ...... Italian Cheese & Ham George E. DeLallo Co...... 43 ...... Olives ...... 800-433-9100 Vandersterre Groep International B.V.7 ...... Gouda Cheese ...... 31172631059 George E. DeLallo Co...... 92 ...... Olives ...... 800-433-9100 Ventura Foods, LLC ...... 21 ...... Shortening, Oils, Spreads ...... 877-VENTURA Gourmet Foods ...... 23 ...... Cheese ...... 404-954-7698 Venus Wafers, Inc...... 41 ...... Crackers ...... 800-545-4538 Ken’s Foods Inc...... 5 ...... Salad Dressing ...... 800-633-5800 Veroni ...... 77 ...... Italian Salami ...... 646-256-2638 Lactalis ...... 65 ...... Roquefort Cheese ...... 212-758-6666 Volpi Foods ...... 81 ...... Italian Meats ...... 800-288-3439 LaPanzanella ...... 37 ...... Flatbreads ...... 206-322-6760 Westrow Foods ...... 27 ...... Turnkey Sales ...... 905-669-5412 Litehouse, Inc...... 54 ...... Blue Cheese ...... 800-669-3169 Winter Gardens Quality Foods ...... 51 ...... Entrees, Soups, Sauces ...... 717-968-4788 Marzetti ...... 11 ...... Null ...... 614-572-7039 Yucatan Foods ...... 55 ...... Guacamole ...... 310-837-2300

90 DELI BUSINESS JUNE/JULY 2019

Blast3.indd 1 5/20/19 3:38 PM

DELI MEATS Spotlighting Salami Made in the USA ��������� 37 Five Ways to Upsell Shoppers on This Popular Salted, Artisan-Flavored Deli Meat

DELI MEATS Spotlighting Salami Made in the USA �� 37 Five Ways to Upsell Shoppers on This Popular Salted, Artisan-Flavored Deli Meat