RIFT VALLEY 229 A3 A2 © Lonely Planet Publications Mt Longonot AREA: 227,420 SQ KM

Lake Baringo Menengai Crater Hell's Gate

National Park Lake Nakuru National Park Mt ( p243 ) POPULATION: 4.7 MILLION POPULATION: ( p242 ), a

Hell’s Gate Hell’s Gate ( p247 ) ( p237 ) Menengai Crater Crater Menengai ( p231 ) to a glorious Rift p231 ( Lake Nakuru National Park Lake Nakuru Lake Baringo coloured spectacles and that wildlife spectacles and that wildlife coloured at hippos, a hunting fish eagle and an amazing sunrise into one photograph at Longonot audience 1000m below Valley overlooking place of past volcanic and tribal hostility while walkingnature through the wild- and striking of gorges life National Park is truly that brilliant TELEPHONE CODE: 03 not wearing rose- Realising that you’re crocodiles, to squeeze Attempting rim of Dancing along the crater atop a precipice Staring slack-jawed for new respect Gaining an entirely

Africa’s battle scar, stretching thousands of kilometres from Ethiopia to Mozambique, forms thousands of kilometres from Ethiopia to Mozambique, battle scar, stretching Africa’s with some of and soda lakes, is alive freshwater with large valley’s fertile floor, dotted The views over tremendous and offer Hikes rewarding up the valley’s dormant volcanoes are you’ll thank Mother Earth sure for her royal botch-up! visiting, we’re After HIGHLIGHTS HIGHLIGHTS

Raise a glass to toast Earth’s failure. About eight million years ago, by repeating the process About eight million years ago, by repeating Raise a glass to toast Earth’s failure. shards, Mother into seven the ancient continent of Pangaea it had successfully used to tear in. gave never buckled, but Africa bent, Africa Africa Earth in two. tried to rip Africa where in Kenya’s Rift Valley, wounds are Some of the most attractive a stunning landscape. soils, grassy plains and soda lakes. ochre escarpments and volcanoes tower over serrated and fluids spurtSteam from its surface National Park. at Lake Bogoria and Hell’s Gate dyed pink with hundreds often are Lake Nakuru’s shores Kenya’s most spectacular wildlife. slopes host flamingos wading in the shallows, while its forested of thousands fluorescent And if you walk or and leopards. buffaloes, antelopes such as rhinos, giraffes, bigger treats or see a zebra you’ll never National Park, of Hell’s Gate cycle unguided through the gorges amplifier of observation. in the same way again – being on foot is ultimate giraffe also available from the viewpoints the rift. Similar views without peaceful solitude are on the Old Naivasha Rd as it drops into valley from town of Limuru. signposted Rift Valley Rift Valley RIFT VALLEY insect larvae (foodforsoda-resistant fish). larvae insect (foodforgreatercrustaceans flamingos) and flamingos, tinywhich inturnfeed lesser growth of microscopic blue-green algae, theperfecthowever, environmentforthe The strangely soapyandsmellywaters are, which furtherconcentrates thealkalinity. rates, drainage, evaporation experiencehigh lakes, formedbythevalley’slackof decent in mostRiftValley lakes. shallowsoda These canic depositshave created alkalinewaters Kenya’s energy supply. plants, which are increasingly in important vides idealconditionsforgeothermal power considerable numberof hotspringsandpro- 1860. Thiscontinuingactivitysupportsa legend, MtLongonoterupted asrecently as thirty remain active, andaccordingtolocal While mostare nowextinct,nofewer than canic peaksandcraters alsolinethe valley. NaivashaandMagadi.teita, Astringof vol- and lakes Bogoria, Nakuru,Elmen- Baringo, Turkana,theCheranganiHills Lake through ing AfricafromtheMiddleEast. riftcontinues,slowlyseparat- the RedSea ofrican section theriftfailedandnowonly northern tipof Malawi. Af- Lake TheEast border, which joinsthemainsystem atthe Tanganyika ontheTanzania–Congo (Zaïre) border,and on theCongo(Zaïre)–Rwanda the Uganda–Congo border,Kivu (Zaïre) continent, includingAlbertandEdwardon forms astringof lakes inthecentre of the Tanzania andMalawi. Awestern branch thenEthiopia,Kenya, theRedSea, through Mozambique insouthernAfrica,passing to intheMiddle East from theDeadSea Arabian riftsystem thatstretches 6000km Kenya’s RiftValley isactuallypart of theAfro- Geography 230 sweeping pinkshoressweeping of pecking flamingos, Nakuru National ParkLake ( p243 ), withits National Parks&Reserves end of November (the‘shortrains’). of June(the‘longrains’)andOctober tothe Marchfalls intwoseasons: tothebeginning pass 28°C.Like rain usually thehighlands, climate andtemperatures typicallydon’tsur- the RiftValleyHighlands, enjoys apleasant hotter slightly thantheCentral Although Climate Besides providing fertileBesides soil,thevol- In Kenya, theRiftValley canbetraced RIFTVALLEY ••Geography ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ region. ply Convenient and buses matatus You’ll have notrouble getting around this Around Getting Kenya Highlands. andtheCentral linkthetowns toNairobi,western buses) (mini- andmatatus network. Regular buses enters theregion usingtheextensive road imity toNairobi means virtuallyeverybody kuru NationalPark, prox- thevalley’sclose While youcancharter Na- planesintoLake &Away There Getting Nakuru’s massive flamingopopulation. shores, hometoLake which playsecond fromitshydrothermalSteam plumesrise ( BogoriaNational Reserve Lake p246 parks istheharsh anddesolate beautyof ). twonational in stunningcontrasttothese wildlife inalltheirnaturalglory.Standing ing landscapesandamongAfrican plains strik- opportunity towalkunguidedthrough much fewer offer visitors, theunique itdoes While Hell’s Gate NationalPark ( p237 ) sees other wildlife, istheregion’s biggest hitter. regular andabundanceof rhinosightings The Valley Rift (70km) National Reserve To MasaiMara Kabarnet (192km) Kisumu (107km); Eldoret (107km) To Kericho (73km) To Eldoret RIFT VALLEY A104 Ewaso Ngiro Lake Bogoria C56 C51 B4 NR Narok Loruk Nakuru Crater Lake Lake Njoro Marigat Nakuru Menengai GS Nakuru Crater Lake Lake Naivasha Ὀ ὈὈ ὈὈ Lake Turkana(406km) To Lodwar(339km); NP B3 L E a

s i Bogoria c k Baringo Hell's Gate a i Lake Gilgil

r p Lake Hyrax Hill Lake Elmenteita p m i NP a Mt Susua Site Nyahururu e (2357m)

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A104 Naivasha C77 B5

NP Old

Limuru Rd 12miles 20km 0 0 Lake Turkana(235km) To Maralal(25km); C76 NAIROBI Distances are approximate Nyeri Nanyuki Thika Kiganjo ation atthegate. rangers toescortyou,double-check thesitu- nolonger require(Kenya Wildlife Service) this 11kmtrek shouldtake aboutsixhours. ent ecosystem. Includingtimeforgawking, a littlelostworldhostinganentirely differ- just bedrawninwardtothe2km-wide bounty of RiftValley views,your eyesmay ter takes anotherthree hours. Despite the to thesummit(2776m)andaroundcra- under anhour,whiletherewarding jaunt climbtotherimtakesramas. Thesteep just andquietaccompanythepano- foot, peace US$15/5) at 400,000years of age. while ingeological terms pup it’sjustawee dog years thisdormantvolcanoisancient, ing 1000mabove thebakingvalleyfloor. In craterthe serrated rimof MtLongonot,ris- Few placesoffer better RiftValley viewsthan LONGONOT NATIONAL PARK scheduled forresurfacing. it’s though A104 Nakuru–Naivashasection, roads are ingreat shape,exceptthepotholed all major (andmostminor)routes. Most www.lonelyplanet.com the effort of gettingthe effort there. outer The steep teresting, thisunique volcano is well worth frequentedLess than Longonotbut more in- SUSUA MT From there it’sa7km walk tothegate. for alonger butmore route. straightforward Longonot village to theactualaccessroad to thepark’saccess road.Continuesouthpast village, fromwhere there’s a path(asklocals) fromNaivashatoLongonot take a matatu Old NaivashaRd. Ifyou’re withoutavehicle, Driving, it’s75kmnorthwestof Nairobionthe &Away There Getting Naivasha. zebrasandotherplainsanimals. by giraffes, has afloodlitwaterhole regularly patronised Hemingway’s wives. It’ssublime,andeven andcottage builtbyoneofstyle farmhouse US$8/5) not Ranch roofed accommodationtotheparkis facilities (nowater orfirewood). Thenearest full board The basic hasimproved security Although andKWS inthe Since thebestvistas The cheapest hotels are foundinnearby sitsjustbeyondthegate andhasbasic are onlyreached on withsomeeffort s/d US$250/370)

( % Oloongonot Campsite 050-50077; [email protected]; , which isalovely old- park

(adult/child (adult/child Longo- crater , 11am-4pm Sun)Crudeclinicandlabservices. 600) cheques (KSh50perleafcommission).WithATM. (a KSh50 tipisappropriate). secure parking, you’ll wakeuse toaclean car isgoodandifyou Security comfy enough. tattered butthey’re andthetoilets lackseats, theroom after paying.Theroomsaresee rooms after ‘cleaning’, meaningyoucanonly tions, butopenSundays. many) and chosen these. many) andchosen We’ve punted thereal dives (there were BUDGET Sleeping Post office Clinic Medical Commercial Bank Kenya Cyber Cafe Barclays Bank Information Naivasha ( p233 ) ismore enjoyable. National Park, aroundnearbyLake staying a convenient forvisits to Longonot base area’s blossomingflowerindustry.Although primarilyfocusonthe madness andservices water. Thestreets have descendedintocratered Naivasha hasbecomeanagriculturalback- bythenewA104HwytoNairobi, Bypassed % NAIVASHA on theeastsideof themountain. There’s alsoanetworkof unexplored caves rim peaksat2357mandbegstobetrekked. crater innercrater, protects whose asecond dukas are very limited stocksinthelakeshore road Naivasha,astheresupplies enroute toLake crater, it’seasyafterwards. although theouter a4WDtotackle road. You’llneed villages thatdottheB3 Nairobi–Narok find someonetoguideyouinthenearby is ownedbylocalMaasai, soyou’llhave to Rd; s/twKSh250/400) do thetrick. Roomshave mosquitonets. KSh250). WithATM only). (Visa and travellerscheques(1%commission,minimum charge Chotara Rd;sKSh300) RIFT VALLEY ••LongonotNationalPark Sam’s Holiday Inn Kafico Lodge Kafico The onlyconceivablereason tostopisfor There’s nodesignated route andallland Othaya Annexe Hotel Annexe Othaya 050 Oneof the theoddplacesthat ‘seal’ (shops). (Kenyatta Ave; (Kenyatta perhrKSh120)Slowconnec- (MoiAve) Withcardphones andInternet. (BiasharaRd; (MoiAve) Exchangecashandtravellers

( % It’sabit gloomy, butshould Abit brighter than Sam’s, 2021344; BiasharaRd;s/twKSh350/

( % (MoiAve) Exchange cash

h 0721-474556; Mbaria Kaniu Kaniu 0721-474556; Mbaria ( % 9am-7pm Mon-Sat, 0721-979916; Kariuki 0721-979916; Kariuki

231 RIFT VALLEY RIFT RIFT VALLEY s/tw KSh600/1000) and lacksmozzienets. but OthayaAnnexe onlyhassinglerooms Naivasha 232 and secure parking. pricier thanaverage, but includes breakfast Naivasha’s midrange accommodation is MIDRANGE decent restaurant andsecure parking. beds varyinsize, so scopeoutafew. Ithasa tion thanotherbudget lodgings.Rooms and KSh800/1200/1400) and overpriced. the roomsat Wambuku are quite dark than theNaivashaSilvermaintained Hotel, 4 1 3 2 NAIVASHA Naivasha Silver Hotel Naivasha Silver Wambuku Inn Wambuku (1km); Nakuru (500m); A104 Tourist Lodge Station To Lakeside RIFTVALLEY ••Naivasha Train Rd Turn-off(2.5km) To MoiSouthLake for LakeNaivasha (71km) (4km); Longonot (old road,77km) (20km); Nairobi

A Moi Ave Moi 5 Station La 14 A slightly more Aslightly op- pleasant 12 Although this placeisbetter Although 13 8 1 3

7 Kariuki Chotara Rd Chotara Kariuki Mosque ( SLEEPING INFORMATION Sam's HolidayInn...... Othaya AnnexeHotel...... Naivasha SilverHotel...... La BelleInn...... Ken-Vash Hotel...... Kafico Lodge...... Post Office...... Medical Clinic...... Kenya CommercialBank...... Cyber Cafe...... Barclays Bank...... &LocalMatatus...... Bus &MatatuStand...... Ming YueChineseRestaurant.... Jolly Cafe...... (see9) Dancing Spoons...... (see6) Bawani StoresSupermarket...... Wambuku Inn...... d...... A2 Nairobi MatatuBookingOffice Rd)...... Matatus toKongoni(SouthLake TRANSPORT EATING 10 % 16

Kenyatta 6

200m 0.1miles 0 0 2030287; MoiAve; s/d/tw Temple Hindu ( Municipal %

Market Ave Biashara Rd 11 15 2020580; Kenyatta Ave;2020580; Kenyatta 9 17 Outdoor Market 4 2

To A104(3km); Nairobi (86km) B Mama Ngina Rd Ngina Mama Mbaria KaniuRd 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 B2 B1 A2 A2 A1 B1 A2 B2 A2 A1 A1 A1 B2 A1 B2 A1 of them. have tobepretty brave toventure intomost eries onKariuki you’d Rd,although Chotara tostockup. perfect place forself-caterers KSh1400/2000/2200) clude breakfast. anywhere intown.Pricesquoted in- else ofartwork andalevel cleanlinessunseen of varioussizessportingplankfloors, local A classiccolonial-styleoption,withrooms the likes fried of curdsatay, bean worth aTusker or two intheevenings. the road.TheHappy Valley insideisalso Bar drinks, despite occasionaldustclouds from veranda isforyou.It’salsoatopplace lake applepie, thisgreat oreven colonial spare kebab, ribs,beef fresh tilapiafromthe curry (veggie ornon-veggie), steak, pork your stomach isrumblingforanIndian Mbaria Kaniu tothe municipal Rd,close is off station The main bus and matatu & Away There Getting dishes. menu isagoodmix of Kenyan andWestern she wouldn’tchoke ontheirfood.The window treatments andfluorescent chairs, Martha Stewart wouldgaspattheoverdone outside. at theirhotels, somegoodoptionslurk toeatanddrink mostpeopleseem Although Eating &Drinking KSh1600/2500/3400) taurant oftaurant choice forsimpleKenyan fare. cated belowtheKafico Lodge, thisistheres- truck parkviews–enjoy! characterless boast –somebalconieseven smart andcleanthatitendsupbeingentirely KSh300-700; Belle’s character.Belle’s andthickshagcarpets,butlackingLa TVs) better-equippedwith slightly rooms(with you toorder‘wholefishlookslike squirrel’. that there’s nothinglike itformiles.Wedare and scrumptiousspringrolls,it’ssafe tosay There’s acluster of cheap bars andbutch- Ken-Vash Hotel Ken-Vash La BelleInn Ming Yue ChineseRestaurant Ming Bawani Stores Supermarket Bawani Stores La BelleInn Jolly Cafe Lakeside Tourist Lodge Tourist Lakeside Dancing Spoons h

(Kenyatta Ave;(Kenyatta mealsKSh80-220)

( Mon-Sat) (Moi Ave; mealsKSh180-400) % Thisnewishlodge isso Alarge tourist-classplace

2021007; MoiAve; s/dKSh2500/2900) (Biashara Rd;mealsKSh60-130) ( % With a menu boasting Withamenuboasting 2030049; offMoiAve; s/d/tw

( % www.lonelyplanet.com 2020856; MoiAve; s/d/tw

(Moi Ave)

(Moi Ave; meals Thisisthe Whether bok choi While Lo-

expat communitiesinKenya, andcanhave a Naivasha isstilloneof thelargest and settler four-day journeyfrom Southampton. Lake Solent flying-boats landing here after their ya’s mainairport,withBOAC’s Empire and 1937and1950thelakebetween wasKen- Happy Valley inthe1930s.Amazingly set haunt of LordDelamere andthedecadent becomingthefavourite eventually settled, either anditwasoneof thefirst areas they surroundings wasn’tlostonearlysettlers nately fortheMaasai, thesplendourof the considered itprimegrazingland.Unfortu- shoreline home,ashave theMaasai, who ora of birdlife have longcalledtheverdant totheregion.portance Naivasha’s beautyisasundeniableitsim- a blossominghorticulturalindustry,Lake protected hippopopulations,fisheaglesand barked acacias,andfreshwater thatsupports With shores fringed withpapyrusandyellow- % LAKE NAIVASHA minutes), leave fromKenyatta Ave. (KSh70, 45 Kongoni viaFisherman’sCamp for andallthose Some Nairobimatatus, bookingofficeonKenyattathe matatu Ave. at forNairobimatatus ets canbebought 1¾ hours) andplaceswest.Advancetick- (KSh150, 1½hours), Nyahururu (KSh200, for Nakuru(KSh120, 1¼hours), Nairobi market. Frequent leave andmatatus buses www.lonelyplanet.com A vastrange of plainsanimalsandapleth- not thekiller!’ it downto atee: ‘NotTom!Not Tom!He’s visit theparksand theremote had north, am Canadian!’, mydriver, whoI’d hired to as anauthor!While Icouldonlymuster, ‘I Planet career Iwashoping toberecognised yelled. Forthefirst timeinmyLonely agent onhisranch. dropped after shootingaMaasaiKWS has justhadmurdercharges controversially cially whenthegreat-grandson inquestion have somefringebenefits…sadlynot.Espe- Lord Delamere’s great-grandson would You’d thinkbeingrepeatedly for mistaken ME, ADELAMERE? 050 Fringe benefits myarse! People stared. People chased.People Matt Phillips essentially becomesKenya’sessentially StTropez. resort-like whenit season, feel toitinhigh Valentine’s Dayin2005! stems foralone producedamillionrose day.Oneflowergrower auctions thesame early morningcanbeatEurope’sflower ingly, flowers thatare picked here inthe US$360-million flowerindustry.Astound- Naivasha isnowthecentre of Kenya’s proliferated inthehillsrecently, andLake dustry rulestheroost.Shade have houses fruit andvegetables, todaytheflowerin- production area cattleandfresh forbeef amajorcountryside hashistoricallybeen irri Whilethesurrounding gation purposes. but italsomeansthelake for canbeused Rift Valley lakes, which are alkaline, highly in comparisonwiththevastmajority of water bestowitwithauniqueecosystem 170 sqkm. receding again,andnowonlyspreads over the early20thcentury.Thelake iscurrently rebounding tocover almost1000sqkmin the lake almostdry upinthe1890sbefore erraticwater which levels, bilised hadseen the ecosystem. Irrigationhasfurtherdesta- ing intothelake andreeking havoc with ation, aspesticidesandfertilizers are seep- of thesourceofthe very theircre- survival and horticulturalindustryisthreatening dreaded water hyacinth. and variousaquaticplants,including the dent thatinitiallyescapedfroma fur farm) the SouthAmericancoypu(anaquatic ro- sports andcommercialfisheries), crayfish, bly withtheintroductionof foreign fish(for with onanumberof otheroccasions,nota- be done. are promising, but much work remains to thelake’smaintain biodiversity. The results conduct among thelocal growers thatwill organisations acode of work toestablish andother Centre Elsamere Conservation issuesinvolved,environmental theLNRA, the localsdependent onthelake about the educating ternational importance. Besides ficially recognising it asawetlandof in- site, of- the lake wasdesignated aRamsar Naivasha Riparian Association (LNRA), 1995, after years of lobbyingfromtheLake andin efforts the focusof conservation Not only does Lake Naivasha’sfresh Lake Not onlydoes thesuccessofHowever, theagricultural The lake’s interfered ecologyhasbeen For these reasons NaivashahasbeenFor these RIFT VALLEY Naivasha ••Lake

233 RIFT VALLEY RIFT RIFT VALLEY sanctuary north of thevillage of Kongoni,isthissmall on thewestern sideof Naivashaand Lake volcaniccraterSurrounding abeautiful lake, CRATER LAKEGAME SANCTUARY Sights Naivasha Lake 234 (adult/child US$14/7) of Naivasha. It’saprivate Lake crater formsthisisland ontheeastern side The protrudingrimof volcanic acollapsed CRESCENT ISLAND WILDLIFESANCTUARY water helpssootheailing cattle. by thelocalMaasai, its believe whoeven jade-green crater lake regard isheldinhigh lurkinthewoods.Thetiny that buffaloes regular residents. Whilewalking,remember zebras andotherplainswildlife are also sive 150birdspeciesrecorded here, giraffes, theimpres-diminutive crater rim.Besides including oneforhikers but alongthesteep some rathergigantic pythons too! and waterbucks countless elands, bird species.Oh,and there are gazelles, Grant’s trees) of insearch Thomson’sand giraffes, neath yellow-barked acacias(yellow fever 1 3 2 LAKE NAIVASHA To Narok RIFTVALLEY Naivasha ••Lake Kongoni (61km) Crater Lake

ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ (admission KSh100) AC 8 Ol Karia 1 Game Sanctuary

Oloiden Moi gate Crater Lake Lake , where youcanwalk be-

15 South 20 12

Lake 14

National Park Moi Rd Hell's Gate North See Hell'sGateNationalParkMap(p238) , withmanytrails

Lake 4 Hippo Point Ford Seasonal

24 Rd N AIVSH Maasai Gorge 6 L AKE 10 B sanctuary 21 11 3 22 9 Ὀ SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION Watalii Kiosk...... Hippos Safaris...... Elsamere ConservationCentre.... Dukas &Market...... Dukas...... ogn oie...... A3 Kongoni Police......

Sanctuary Crescent Wildlife Island 18 ing hisproperty. is nowcharging extortionate fees forcross- buttheland owner along asmallcauseway, time. It’s technically possibletodrive here KSh2000 which perboat, includes waiting hour). Thebestis boats forislandtrips(aroundKSh2500 per off Moi South Lake Rd) off MoiSouthLake Elsamere Conservation Centre Conservation Elsamere Rdyou’llfind onMoiSouthLake Camp A coupleof kilometres pastFisherman’s ELSAMERE CONSERVATION CENTRE (with a chance to see eastern(with achance black-and-white tosee entry includes afternoon tea on thelawn programs, thesite isopentothe publicand lake awareness ecology andenvironmental her murderin1980. her writingfrom Elsamere upuntil right husband, George. Adamsondidmuch of 1967 withaview toretiring here withher of the former homeof thelate JoyAdamson africaonline.co.ke; admissionKSh500; africaonline.co.ke; Naivasha

Moi South Lake Rd Naivasha Old Rd Almost allaccommodationoptions rent Now a conservation centre on focused Now aconservation Born Free 19 To Gilgil(30km); Nakuru (70km) Ranch (5km) To Longonot (272km) 16 Kisumu To 26 5 7 13 17 2 Karagita fame. in She thehouse bought 6 5 4 3 2 1 23 (67km) Nairobi To astheycharge aflatrate of 25 A104 B3 C2 B3 B3 C2 Hippos Safaris Hippos SLEEPING Yelogreen Hotel...... Geothermal Club...... Fischers TowerRestaurant.. YMCA ...... Top Camp...... Olerai House...... Lodge...... Lake NaivashaLodge...... Kongoni GameValley...... WildlifeSanctuary...... Hippo Camp...... Resort...... Fisherman's Camp...... Fish EagleInn...... Crayfish Camp...... Crater LakeCamp...... Burch's Marina...... Elmenteita Weavers...... aeNiah oaRsr. C3 Lake NaivashaSopaResort.. Lake NaivashaSimba Lake NaivashaCountryClub Hippo PointPrivateEstate& Great RiftValleyLodge&Golf SHOPPING EATING 3miles 5km 0 0 www.lonelyplanet.com

Nairobi (67km;oldroad) ( To Longonot(10km); %

h ( % (78km; newroad) D 2021055; elsa@ To Nairobi 8am-6.30pm) 0733-813100; 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 C2 B3 C2 B3 B3 A2 C3 C2 C2 A3 A3 C2 A2 B3 B3 B3 A2 C2 C3 , The tin-shack toiletsand showers are pass- bandas, camping isclearly the bestoption. With overpriced simplerooms andbasic from thepopularbar andrestaurant.noise away from theoverlander crowds andthe The site ishuge, thus enablingyoutoget one of great these beastsgrazing at night. arealsons, youstillstand chance of seeing restricted byelectric fences forsafety rea- hippos. While hippo movements have been campers, overland companiesandhungry ern shore, thisisaperennial favourite of Spread alongthegrassytree-laden south- www.lonelyplanet.com dm KSh500,s/twwithshared bathroomsfromKSh800/1600) specified. Rdunlessotherwise South Lake dation. Allsites are located Moi onornear Rift Valley’s best range of budget accommo- Naivashahasthe Due toitspopularity,Lake &MIDRANGE BUDGET Sleeping centre forfree. dinner isKSh1000 –andyoucanvisitthe KSh650/800 and onweekdays/weekends, minute room andashowingof theweathered 40- colobus monkeys), avisittothememorial Fisherman’s Camp Book aheadforameal–lunch costs Kongoni on Moi South Lake Rd. Kongoni onMoiSouthLake be backincampbefore dark. lodge hasinthewayofsecurityandalways some precautionsto take –askwhatyour their timehere withoutincident,it’swise fences. withelectric rounding theirproperties increased securitypersonnelandare sur- response, lodgeshave mostofthetop-end inent lodgewasmurdered inJuly2005.In armed thieves, andtheownerofoneprom- perate formoneyhave turned tocrime. enough worktogoaroundandpeopledes- paved withgold.Inreality there isn’t hereflocked jobsandstreets expecting paying decentwages,thousandshave the pastfew years. Withtheflowerindustry regards Naivashain tosecurityaroundLake There’s beenasadturnfortheworsewith WARNING The nearest policestationisfoundin While thevastmajorityofvisitorsenjoy Several lodgeshave beenheldupby Joy AdamsonStory

( % 2030088; campingKSh200, .

from KSh500/1000,5-personcottagesKSh5000) Run by KWS, thisis a reasonable site with KSh300-450) ends, so advance booking is mandatory. busy here, especially onTuesdays andweek- supplied, butcanberequested). It’s pretty bed familycottages (beddingisn’tnormally basic twin-bed rondavels orthatched four- a communalcooking area andwell.Ithas andwell-shaded, withhotshowers,pleasant range of accommodation.The campsite is There’s astore withbasicprovisions anda of anditsilk. the noise Fisherman’sCamp fleeing idiosyncratic place,idealforthose during holidays. Kenyans and gets busywithschool groups KSh150, dinnerKSh200). It’spopular with small charge. Meals are alsoavailable (lunch firewood andbeddingcanbeprovided fora two dormsandanumberof bandas; Spartan venient forwalksintoHell’s Gate. There are you’ll donobetter thantheY. It’salsocon- riding isalsooffered (KSh500 per hour). hire rates asFisherman’s).Horseback (same andtent,tables bedding,bicycleandboat andtwobars,taurant kitchen facilities,pool so happy–very cavemanish. Ithasares- make Fred Flintstonesmile, youmaynotbe Jane. Whilethecommunalbathroomswould rooms withshared facilitiesare very plain malist, buthave somecharm, whilethepetite option. Thepriceynewroomsare abitmini- garden thanacampsite, butit’snotabad more canseem like abeer the CrayfishCamp has afullkitchen andbooksa-plenty. Thelargeable forself-caterers. cosycottage utensils, plates andacharcoal burneravail- all have bathrooms).There are alsocooking tin-roofed, bamboo-walledbandas(almost top perch. It’saquietplacewithvarious crazylake boasts views fromitshill- Camp Fisherman’s lakeside location,butTop 3000) 2-person rondavelsKSh600,cottagesd/tr/qKSh2200/2600/ charged KSh100 admission. and bikes (KSh500 perday).Nonguestsare can alsorent tents (KSh200 perperson) able, butare thesite’s weakest point.You KSh2500/3000; campingKSh250,swithshared.co.ke; bathroomKSh750,s/d Hpo Camp Hippo Burch’s Marina YMCA Crayfish Camp Top Camp About 1kmpastHotel Yelogreen isthis

(camping KSh250,dmbandasperperson RIFT VALLEY Naivasha ••Lake Forbasicroofed accommodation,

i ( %

(off Old Naivasha Rd;camping KSh200) )

FollowingFisherman’slead, 2030276; campingKSh200,s/twban das

( % ( % 2020239; craycamp@africaonline 0733-660372; campingKSh200, Itlacks 235

RIFT VALLEY RIFT RIFT VALLEY North Lake Rd;fullboards/d US$240/320) Lake North 4100; camping KSh220,dmKSh450,sKSh2110-2660,dKSh3550- africaonline.co.ke; fullboard s/dUS$85/140) africaonline.co.ke; for those campingorindormsisKSh100.for those 312 alsohave balconies.Swimming pleasant canopy beds.Even numbered rooms302to have creature and comfortslike satellite TV roomsareHouse’ more even pricey,but rooms.The‘Jumbopriced DIYstandard find plywoodcharming, you’lllove theover- the campfire. Pricesare negotiable. slightly with yourbackto acushionandyourfaceto other luxurylodges. outside Spendevenings mosphere make itfeel more homelike than timbers, grassmatsandwarmpersonal at- pite being ratherluxurious,theoldwood Kenyan andMediterranean influences.Des- sublime suites, each uniqueandamixof als dustthebedsandfloors of five these Gate National park,are US$300perperson. rates, includingallactivitiesandtripstoHell’s walks anddrives canbearranged. Package fromhorsebackeverything ridingtosafari are sosightings wildlife plentifuland reserve, sitswithinaprivate ulous. Thefarmhouse lovely sittingroomandfireplace isalsofab- Pili stonecottage, withitsthree bedrooms, bedsandbear-clawfortable bathtubs.ThePili hardwoodfloors,and boast rich rugs, com- lovelyrooms surroundthehouse’s courtyard the viewswillleave youspellbound.Most with acupof veranda tea onthesweeping – atmosphere before sinkingintosomewicker upthe charm. andsoak Wanderthehouse forutter Africansafarilonial farmhouse the lake cancompare withthisgrandco- able upon request. National Park and MtLongonot are avail- and arelative bargain. TripstoHell’s Gate others, extremely it’s comfortable, friendly lacking the‘wow’factor ofviews. Although anda, dotthelovely lawnandoffer great lake galows, each withits owndiminutive ver- Valley Kongoni Game TOP END some free wildlife viewing. fees). There’s apathdowntothelake for rent (five-person tent KSh500, pluscamping shabbypermanenttents for some slightly 236 full boardperpersonUS$150; Elsamere Conservation Centre Conservation Elsamere Olerai House Fish EagleInn RIFTVALLEY Naivasha ••Lake s ) Ifyouhave moneytoburnand

(

% ( %

020-891112; www.olerai.com;Moi ( % 2030306; [email protected]; 2030306; [email protected]; 2021070; www.kgvalley.com; 2021070; www.kgvalley.com; s ) Nothingaround

( % Smallbun- 2021055; elsa@ Rose pet- Rose US$500; KSh5880/10500) fullboardlowseasons/dKSh4930/8925,high .co.ke; season US$85/120) camping KSh200,fullboardlowseasons/dUS$55/80, high vaulted ceilings,isgorgeous. shaped barandrestaurant, withmassive andlakesidea gym,sauna path.Thearc- thepool,there’s also the gardens.Besides into bedsandspillright twin queen-sized inthattheyhavestairs optionsonlydiffer andpure comfort,whiledown- rooms, TVs balconies, king-sizedbeds,modernbath- that openedin2004.Upstairs suites boast massive luxurycottages at thisnewresort ing cactiandmanicured gardensfront the 020-3750235; fullboards/dUS$188/250; [email protected]; fullboards/dUS$180/250; [email protected]; s/d US$131/162,lowseason US$161/212; halfboardhighseason [email protected]; ent wining and dining. above, there’s little inthe wayof independ- of the accommodation optionsmentioned Since foodanddrinks canbehadat most Eating & Drinking NaivashaSimbaLodge Lake NaivashaCountryClub Lake wildlife drives, water skiing…younameit. includefood,drinks, four people).Rates clusively toonegroupatatime (minimum in Kenya, theentire isrented estate outex- Perhaps themostluxuriousaccommodation it! it,andwesaw us –westillcan’tbelieve believe andthetower,butyou’dnever house about theabsolute lavishness of themain ( Great Rift Valley Lodge&Golf Resort Rift Great is itslackof lake frontage. dated thanotherlodges. Anotherdrawback style roomsandbathroomsare much more and camp. recent thesanctuary willaffect tragicdeath is whole of onfoot.Thisplace thesanctuary excellent,andyoucanexplore the service green crater lake. Thefoodisgoodandthe among trees andoverlooking thetinyjade- low seasonUS$222/300; highseasons/dUS$133/180, [email protected]; % agem, butwe’re notsure howtheowner’s Crater Lake Camp Lake Crater Hippo Point Private Estate & Wildlife Sanc &WildlifeSanc Estate PointPrivate Hippo tuary Lake NaivashaSopaResort Lake Other luxuriousrecommendations: Lake NaivashaLodge Lake 2021295; www.hippo-pointkenya.com; perperson 2021295; www.hippo-pointkenya.com; is Aluxurytented campnestled ) Wecouldtryandtell you It’s pleasant, butthecottage- It’spleasant,

( s %

) 2020613; crater@africaonline ( % www.lonelyplanet.com ( ( % % 2030298; fax2020611;

( % 020-4343960; 020-650500; s 2050358, Nairobi s ( % ) ) Tower- 2050048; s )

Fischers TowerRestaurant cheapish meals: supplies. forbasic are Fisherman’sCamp foundnear (KSh65) isalwaysavailable. visitors. Coldbeer but willhappilyserve KenGen thermalpowerplant’semployees thisrelaxedCamp, restaurant caters for about 45minutes’ walkfromFisherman’s beautiful spotlookingdownover thelake hand-woven rugs,carpets, Shopping Yelogreen Hotel www.lonelyplanet.com rides atvarious places signposted Moi off charge KSh500 per day. You’ll findcheaper Innboth andFish Eagle erman’s Camp per hour). Fisherman’s Lodge canhelpyouout(KSh300 similar rides. KSh3000between andKSh4000 perhourfor (KSh2500 perhour). Top-endlodges charge options rent reasonable boatsforlake trips Most budget and midrange accommodation Around Getting it’salongdustywalk. otherwise tobeontheroadby about7am, you’ll need in Naivashaaround3pm.Returning totown, Rd,leaving petrolstation Lake fromtheTotal recentbeen muggings. butdon’tdothisaloneasthereLake, have tional Park andFisherman’sCamp. side, passingtheturn-offs toHell’s Gate Na- town andKongonionthelake’s western Naivasha Rdbetween along MoiSouthLake Frequent (KSh80, matatus onehour)run &Away There Getting Visit h and bar. onto plates atthisatmosphericrestaurant burgers andchilli concarnemake theirway from fruitsmoothiesandchicken tikkato Prices reflect quality. thehigh cotton wraparounds),baskets andthelike. The following local restaurants serve The followinglocalrestaurants serve A smallmarket andsome Fisherman’s Camp Most sites also hire bikes; mountain Fish- If you’dlike torowyourboat, There’s alongMoiNorth onedailymatatu It’s a5kmwalkfromKongonito Crater Geothermal Club Geothermal 8am-5pm) Elmenteita Weavers Elmenteita and you’ll see weavers andyou’llsee producing (mealsKSh150-400)

(meals KSh250-425) (meals KSh140-270) (mealsKSh150-200)

(off Moi South Lake Rd; (off MoiSouthLake kangas dukas Everything Set ina Set (printed (shops) RIFT VALLEY NationalPark ••Hell’sGate to give plentyof room. buffaloes adds totheexcitement of itall!Andbesure and leopards aren’t of unheard here only lopes. Theknowledge that cheetahs, lions galloping gazelles andmassive eland ante- face withgrazing zebras, towering giraffes, are tenfold heightened whenyou’re faceto can stilldrive, butwhywould you?Senses cycle unguidedacrossitsbreadth. Sure you truly unique,asitallowsyoutowalkor Theparkis Gate isanexperienceindeed. there’s experiencingnationalparks–Hell’s There’s visitingnationalparks,andthen HELL’S GATE NATIONAL PARK carefully before paying. Rd,butcheckSouth Lake thecontraptions can reach almost3m. slowly beingreintroduced. Theirwingspans mergeyers (beardedvultures), which are basalt –it’sallaglowintheearlymorning. basalt of rustycolumnar loomingcliffs between ochre squeezed soilsandsavannah grasses popular rock-climbingsites. Fischer’s towerisoneof thepark’smany by slaughteringalmosthisentire party. kyboshedhiscampaign and mostefficiently territorial Maasai, whocomprehensively Victoria,Fischer wasstoppedby to Lake cal Societytofindaroute fromMombasa Commissioned bytheHamburg Geographi- man explorer whoreached here in1882. column namedafter Gustav Fischer, aGer- Gorge the large check with rangers before proceeding. regular basis.Flashfloodsare common, so and wholeschool parties manage itona but somesteps have cutintotherock been here. andvery It’sasteep slipperydescent, well tospendacouple of hours exploring shadows.You’ddo castsmarvellous light ningly sculpted bywater, and theincoming ravine stun- This narrowsandstone hasbeen scends intothe by,fromwhereclose anexcellentwalk de- hibited). Apicnicsite andranger’s postare serrated profileserrated of Mt Longonot. a distant Gorge, the surrounding countryside andthe falo Circuit Keep aneyeoutforthemassive lam- The sceneryhere isdramatic,withrich Marking theeastern entrance to Rising fromthegorge’s southern endis If youwant toexplore further, the is Fischer’s Tower offers fineviews over Hell’s Gate Central Tower Central Lower Gorge , a 25m-high volcanic , a25m-high (rock-climbingpro- (OlNjorowa). Hell’s Gate Hell’s Gate

237 Buf- RIFT VALLEY RIFT ὈὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈὈ

RIFT VALLEY side, offers identical facilities and views east water taps. toilets, an openbandaforcooking andfresh- Tower, is themostscenic site, withbasic Gate Gorge andlooking westpastFischer’s information centre Rd,wherefrom MoiSouthLake there’s an It’s always wise tohaveIt’s alwayswise exactchange. theonlyothergate isOlKaria.park closed, two gates onthenorthwestcornerof the The usualaccesspointtothe Information Lara Croft TheCradle TombRaider: of Life movies,role inseveral themostrecent being at OlKaria II. have alookaroundthesite –asktheguards the park’sviewpoints.It’susuallypossibleto of frommany of risingsteam canbeseen hottest sourcesof naturalsteam. Theplumes power project utilisingoneof theworld’s and hoststhe which isn’tconducive tocycling. This circuithasmore soft of sections sand, Hell’s Gate NationalPark 238 the park’stwogorgeous Naivasha’s many lodges andcamps( p235 ), it’s convenient at Lake Although tosleep Sleeping US$15/5) child US$8/5) 1 2 HELL'S GATENATIONALPARK Kitchen gate Ol Dubai Naiburta The park’sstrikingsceneryhasplayed a The park’swestern halfismuch lessscenic (closed) Devil's RIFTVALLEY ••NaivashatoNakuru is through the main Elsa gate, themainElsa 2km isthrough Lookout To MtSusua(30km); Masai Mara(160km) Ὀ can’tberecommended enough. , resting onthe gorge’s opposite , sittinghalfway uptheHell’s A Lake Road(2km) To MoiSouth Ol Karia (closed) Gate Ol Karia Geothermal Station Geothermal Ol Karia Narasha gate(closed)

( % 050-2020284) Volcano Hobley's public campsites Geothermal Ol Karia Lookout Station Ol Karia gate park Ranger's Geothermal Ol KariaII . Withthe Station post BC

(adult/child Picnic Site

(adult/ Lower (OlNjorowa) Central Tower , a Hell's . Gorge 2

beef ranch in 1997, the conservancy has set has set ranch in1997, the conservancy beef life conservancy booth, is this up-and-coming 3500-acre Hiding off theA104,just southof the toll Conservancy Wildlife Kigio happily dropyou anywhere youlike. The frequent plyingthisroute will matatus are someobviousandnot soobvioussights. Naivasha andNakuru,thereside between road warriors (baboons) dottingtheroad- theoddzebra andgangsof hardened Besides NAIVASHA TONAKURU foralift. around atFisherman’sCamp from oneof Naivasha’scamps,orask Lake A goodalternative istohire bike amountain available atthepark’stwopubliccampsites. take plentyof supplies.Drinkingwater is thepark,allow a fullday,and walk through Rdis9km.IfyouintendMoi SouthLake to thetwogates between via 22km; thedistance gate andOlKariaNaivasha viaElsa gate is RdtotheshoreMoi SouthLake of Lake on The roundtripfromthepark’sturn-off &Around There Getting US$10/5, plusset-upfee KSh5000) from thepowerstation. of steam andthepuffs to theorange bluffs sites. more ambiencethanthecheaper public and besidesabsolute solitude,offers no lodge.com) Gate The Lake Road(800m); Naivasha (15km) 3 To MoiSouth Gorge

Endachata SpecialCampsite . Started on a struggling dairy and . Started on a struggling Buffalo

Lookout Tower Fischer's

Tw 4

iga Circuit

( Circuit % Elsa gate 1 050-2030312; www.malewariver 050-2030312; www.malewariver Naiburta PublicCampsite...... Endachata SpecialCampsite..... Information Centre...... lDbiPbi apie.... C1 Ol DubaiPublicCampsite...... SLEEPING INFORMATION Caves Obsidian www.lonelyplanet.com has no services, hasnoservices, 2km 1mile 0 0 D

(adult/child 1 4 3 2 wild- C1 B1 C1 .malewariverlodge.com; fullboards/dUS$160/210) .malewariverlodge.com; enjoy. wilds–listening youfromthe night’s and fronted, withonlybamboo blindsseparat- experience, thecottages are partiallyopen- polluting generator. Justtoaddthesafari only kerosene lampsare –nonoisyor used by awater-driven turbineintheriver and refurbished fence posts.Water issupplied the beautifulbedsare actuallymade from Everything ismadefromlocalmaterials – privately spacedamongtheriverside trees. sists of sixrusticthatched cottages, each and water ateach. free firewood, long-droptoilets,hot showers banks, each shadedbyleafytrees. There’s cattle herding. tryyour handat biking.Youcaneven tain andmoun- fishing, rock-climbing,abseiling activities here includehorseback riding, wildlife walksanddrives, otherpossible atitsecolodgestaying orcampsites. Besides cation willpave thewaytoagreener Kenya. edu- mary schools andhopesenvironmental once stoodhere centuriesago. with pencilcedarandwildolive trees that Malewa River’s edge, are beingreplanted introduction of white rhinos. are breeding, planshave shifted tothere- species tothearea. NowthattheRothschilds part of Kigio’sgoaltore-introduce endemic here NakuruNationalPark fromLake as gered Rothschild were giraffes relocated endan- August 2002,withKWS’help,eight and are nowregularlybuffaloes sighted.In hippos, impalas, Thomson’s gazelles, elands environment. stock andwildlife canthrive inthesame a resource, andprove thathumans,domestic educate localcommunitiesaboutwildlife as out toprotect localwildlife andecosystems, www.lonelyplanet.com The Site Prehistoric Kariandusi There are fourgreat SLEEPING 6pm) Lake Elmenteita. Itwas hereLake in the1920s conservancy fee KSh400) conservancy The To visit the conservancy youmustbe To visittheconservancy supportsthree localpri- The conservancy Denuded areas, especiallyalongthe Things have successfuland been zebras, issignposted off theA104 Hwynear Kariandusi site Kariandusi Malewa River Lodge River Malewa

(adult/child KSh200/100; spread alongtheriver’s campsites

( % 050-2030312; www

(camping incl h con- 8am- to thelake are offered. back riding(KSh1500 perhour)andwalks rooms.Horse- dated butwell-maintained bungalows have these Elmenteita, ing Lake Surrounded bylovely gardens andoverlook- s/d KSh2000/4000) Flamingo Camp SLEEPING KSh100. rents forapaltry Flamingo Camp canoes privately owned.Forsomewater action, around partsof theshoreline thataren’t there are noentryfees, andyoucanwalk ley sodalakes. It’snotanationalpark,so Elmenteita isanotherof themajor RiftVal- ofthanks tothousands brilliantflamingos, It’s bleached shoreline often fringed inpink, Elmenteita Lake tory of early humanlife. there’s anewgallerydisplayingbrief his- Two excavations sites and are preserved 1.4millionand200,000yearsbetween ago. ian andlava toolsmadebyearlyhumans chaeologists) discovered numerousobsid- (afamilyofthat theLeakeys renowned ar- tomite Industries tomite the sci-fi-looking excavations of deep, dramatic Menengaideep, Crater. Park and isonly afew kilometres from the step of Nakuru National Lake the delightful forafew base days.It’sonthe door-pleasant it stillhas arelaxed atmosphere andmakes a town (population 163,000atthelastcensus), Although Nakuru isKenya’s fourth-largest % NAKURU bar are onsite. option withsomeshade. Arestaurant and isn’t badbutwouldbeamore attractive good views,it’soverpriced. Thecampsite andthetiny terraces offerit’s comfortable threebetween stonerondavels. Although smallroomsare Elmenteita, Lake spread are of nowhometothousands bats. water. Mosttunnelswere dugbyhand and diatoms –yes,thisregion tobeunder- allused ties andisformedfromdepositsof aquatic tour. Diatomite hasmanyplaster-like proper- its gate, they’llusuallybehappytogive youa high seasons/dUS70/100,lowUS$120/155; From thelowerexcavation you’llglimpse Lake Elmenteita Lodge Elmenteita Lake 051

Set right ontheshore right of Set

( RIFT VALLEY ••Nakuru ( % % 0722-832001; campingKSh200, 050-4015290).

( % 051-8508630; fullboard Ifyouaskat African Dia- African s 239

)

RIFT VALLEY RIFT Ὀ

RIFT VALLEY 13047, Nakuru) Cheapest vehicle hire for Lake Nakuru trips. trips. Nakuru Cheapest vehicle hire for Lake 13047, Nakuru) open Sunday. h Laboratory Satellite Khan Aga scattered aroundtown. the mostreliable. Plentyof cardphonesare forex ATMs bureaus. Bank’s Barclays are Nakuru iseasy,withnumerousbanks and Changing cashandtravellers cheques in Information Nakuru 240 One World Tours &Safaris Natural Health Clinic CyberWorld Dreams Travel Crater testscostKSh160. Malaria lab services. 9am-4pm Fri) Naturalremedies.9am-4pm Fri) few reputable travelagenciesintown. 4 1 3 2 NAKURU Morara Rd To Kisumu(211km) 8am-8pm, closed 1-2pm Fri) Fast8am-8pm, closed1-2pm Fri) and connections George RIFTVALLEY ••Nakuru

2 SLEEPING INFORMATION Rd West Crater ViewLodge...... Care GuestHouse...... Standard CharteredBank...... Spoonbill Tours&Safaris...... Post Office...... Petmary CyberCafe...... Natural HealthClinic...... (see26) Kenya CommercialBank...... Dreams CyberWorld...... Crater Travel...... Cardphones...... Barclays Bank...... Barclays Bank...... Aga KhanSatelliteLaboratory...... itVle prsCu nrne...C2 Rift ValleySportsClubEntrance...... Lake Baringo(126km) Lake Bogoria(125km); To Marigat(106km); (154km) Campsite (20km);Eldoret Campsite (14km);Kembu Bus Stand(1.2km);Njoro Restuarant (800m);Akamba (700m); BambooHutChinese To CraterForexBureau 16 AC ( %

Government Ave 2215019; off Kenyatta Ave)2215019; offKenyatta Oneofthe

(Kenyatta Lane;perhr KSh120; (Kenyatta Kipchoge Ave (MoiRd;

Kenyatta Ave 40 ( % h A104 Ὀ Ὀ Ὀ (off Court Rd)Various (offCourt 0733-621598; PO Box

Showground Rd 9am-6pm Mon-Thu,

14 13 12 11 10 Oginga Odinga Ave 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 35

Geoffrey Kamau Rd 33 C2 C2 B2 C2 B2 B2 B2 C2 C2 B2 C2 A2 B2

34 Moses Mudavadi Rd Mudavadi Moses B Park 9 easLde...... C2 Pekars Lodge...... EATING Tipsy Restaurant...... Ribbons Restaurant...... (see13) Planet Kitchen...... Nakuru SweetMart(II)...... (see20) Nakuru SweetMart...... Gillani’s Supermarket...... Courtyard Restaurant...... Cafe LemonTart...... Tropical Lodge...... Mount SinaiHotel...... Midland Hotel...... Merica Hotel...... Joska Hotel...... Hotel Waterbuck...... Gituamba Lodge...... 1 18

12 Court Rd Court 24 4 Town 10 Hall 31 ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ Ὀ 26

8 Moi Rd Moi 19 23 22 27 37 Travel, usetheirservices. Mosttravelagents,includingCrater ties aroundNakuru. Hotel, MosqueRd)They seemtohaveamonopolyonactivi- budget options were standouts. these Lurking within themaze of noisyand dirty BUDGET Sleeping Spoonbill Tours&Safaris Post office Petmary CyberCafe Club. Valley Sports at Rift There’s nooffice,soyou’llhavetocall.Usuallyrendezvous KSh350/500/650) connections. h 3 Kenyatta Ave 32 Mount SinaiHotel 25 Nakuru National

7.45am-5.30pm Mon-Sat) Nakuru’s fastestInternet 7.45am-5.30pm Mon-Sat)Nakuru’s Park (1km) Rd Club To Lake 36 7 Nehru Rd Pandhit 5 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 Kenyatta Lane (Kenyatta Ave) (Kenyatta Town’scheapestInternet. 15 0 0 30 6 B2 C2 B2 B2 C2 C2 B2 B2 C2 A2 C2 C2 C2 ὈὈὈ 29

28 13 Gusii Rd Gusii Bazaar Rd Abig, cleanplace with sound 17 Marigat...... Easy Coach...... Crossland Services...... Bus &MatatuStation...... XTC Discoteque...... Odeon...... Nakuru PlayersTheatre...... Lucky Casino...... Tickles Pub...... New CocoSavannaClub...... Nakuru CoffeeHouse...... Ukwala Supermarket...... Matatus toKampiyaSamaki& C2 Uchumi Supermarket...... TRANSPORT ENTERTAINMENT DRINKING 11 39 14

(Kenyatta Ave; (Kenyatta perhrKSh120;

41 Mburu Gichua Rd Gichua Mburu 21

( % Market ( % 38 Mosque Rd 2211779; BazaarRd; s/tw/tr www.lonelyplanet.com 0733-502768; Carnation Prehistoric Site (4km); Nairobi To HyraxHill Train Station

D Menengai Dr Menengai (157km) 0.5 miles 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 To Menengai A104 (161km) Nairobi C2 A2 C2 D2 C2 C2 B3 B2 B2 C2 B2 C2 (8.5km) 1 km Crater To s/tw KSh300/350) cottages KSh3000/6000) campingUS$4,1-/2-bedroom [email protected]; parking isavailable. if thebathroomsare Secure abitrough. suspect. Thetwinroomsare abargain, even herecourtyard, andnoise islessthanyou’d Care GuestHouse Care includethefollowing. toes noisy, sotake a topfloorroom. and somehave windows.Itcanbe bigbright all bare-bones basics,butthey’re ratherlarge ward-facing room,asthey’re more quiet. Asktoilets lackseats. foranupstairs orin- but you’llhave tobeaporcelainjockey –the basicrooms.Everythingthese isratherclean, Foam mattresses have shag-carpetcovers in KSh260/345, s/twKSh310/400) which makes upfortheoddcockroach. baby blue. It’srunbyacheerful woman, parts).Roomsarethese simple,quietand shared, theydohave (a rarityin toiletseats the bunch. the scenicroof terrace are thebrightestof (ironbars allover!).security Theroomson www.lonelyplanet.com of townat Hill Prehistoric Site ( p243 ), or20kmwest Nakuru NationalPark ( p245 ), atHyrax candroptent LakeCampers innearby Lodge Pekars s/tw KSh300/400)Askforroom66. breakfast KSh360/720)Agooddealforsinglerooms. also signposted from theA104. 6km northwest of Njoroon the C56. It’s geckobe dropped atthemetal sign,about ing toMolo (viaNjoro;KSh80) andaskto arranged. Toget here, head- take amatatu ous treks intothesurrounding area canbe for families.Mountain-bike hire andvari- larger cottages have kitchens andare great Nakuru region’s mostcharming room.The bed andalovely bathroom,iseasily the doors, polished-wood floors, agorgeous one-bedroom acaciacottage, with French your foodinadvance).Thesemi-secluded airy bamboo-cladbar/restaurant (order overlanders duetoitstruck workshopand mosphere andit’sparticularlypopular with bathroom KSh250/350) Gituamba Lodge Other budget hotels thatwon’tcurlyour Tropical Lodge Crater View Lodge View Crater Hotel Joska (

Kembu Campsite Kembu ( % All rooms face a bright inner Allroomsfaceabright %

( ( % 2215455; MburuGichuaRd;s/twincl % 2212546; Pandhit NehruRd;sKSh400)

(Gusii Rd;s/twwithshared bathroom Whilethebathroomsare . Kembu hasagreat at-

2216847; MoiRd;s/twwithshared ( 0721-636447; Pandit NehruRd; % Theroomshere are 2216352; MburuGichuaRd;

( % 0722-361102;

incl breakfast KSh2000/2500/2500; so we’re wonderingwhatthey’llcallit. ‘old wing’and‘neware already taken, wing hasrecently added;thenames been ofpet) withvaryinglevels comfort.Athird place hasarange of rooms(mostwithcar- guests cantake adipforKSh100. the courtyardandswimmingpool.Non- balconies. Kindergarten colours surround singles andtwinsare small,boringandlack rable thananyotherroomintown.The are, andmore infact,comfortable memo- abitbrash,they themed doubles.Although boring exterior lurklarge kitschy African- the name suggests, it’sgota nice courtyard. chillies andturmeric)is ratherenjoyable. As chicken flavoured withcoconutcream, green to seafood. Thechickento seafood. stew andfrombeef from IndiantoItalian this place serves great fare. Chinese this placeserves ommended byNakuru’sexpatcommunity, 500) s/d inclbreakfast fromKSh2300/3700) stuffed inNakuru,butwewon’t. stuffed you’ll have notroublegetting pleasantly theobviousandtellWe couldstate youthat Eating the selection. Park ( p245 ) andKembu addto Campsite but great NakuruNational optionsatLake top-end accommodationwithinNakuru, There’s alimited amountof midrange and MIDRANGE &TOPEND rated restaurant. inNakuru’shighest- curry atapoolsidetable atender steakpizza, pasta, orafineIndian swimming pool(nonguestsKSh200). fort, there’s classicfuninNakuru’s best moderncom- well-appointed room.Besides upthesunlitatriumtoyourlarge,elevators kuru’s onlytop-endrooms.Ridetheglass in 2003thiscontemporary towerhostsNa- Plaza, George Morara Rd;mealsKSh300-700) Plaza, George Ave;Kenyatta halfboards/dUS$65/110; the street and the servers are prettythe street and theservers inpink. yan dishes. There’s abalcony overlooking One of thebestrestaurants forcheap Ken- Merica Hotel Merica Midland Hotel Midland Ribbons Restaurant Ribbons Courtyard Restaurant Courtyard Merica Hotel Merica Waterbuck Hotel Bamboo HutChineseRestaurant Thisplacescratches a variety of itches,

(Kenyatta Ave;(Kenyatta mealsKSh185-500) (

% RIFT VALLEY ••Nakuru ( %

2216013; [email protected]; 2216013; [email protected]; ( %

2212125; Geoffrey Kamau Rd; Kamau 2212125; Geoffrey

(Gusii Rd;meals KSh50-200) (off Court Rd;mealsKSh250- (off Court 2215672; WestRd;s/d/tw pili s as Thispopular )

Beneath the Beneath (Map (Map p244 ; Giddo Highly rec- Highly (pan-fried ) Opened Take Take 241

RIFT VALLEY RIFT RIFT VALLEY Will you? visited –we’ll trynot tohold itagainst them. Nakuru. They were playingJLo whenwe nearest you’ll get in toaproper nightclub andadarkdance floor,thisis the lights pool sharkandprostitutes. ernous placewithpoundingmusic, theodd kets forself-caterers. busy withtheafter-work business crowd. simple localdishes,PlanetKitchen isusually peaceful ambience. which guarantees a No alcohol isserved, Kenyan fare. andpopularcafebright serving up onweekends whentheyhostlocalDJs. keeping localfooty fanshappy.Thingspick TVs the friendliestchoice andhasseveral fried chicken andchips. burgers, sandwiches, greasytion andserves outletismoreThis second of asit-downop- evening options. evening For aruraltownthere’s actuallyachoice of Entertainment coffee. shopwhich onewee brewsand even great pops (beers), includingthetop-endhotels, There are plentyof placespouringwobbly Drinking 242 movies. bit of adump,butitusuallyscreens Western food, although dishescanbegreasy.food, although reasonable valueforIndianandWestern ling chairs. It’swellliked bylocals,andoffers fast-food feel, complete with1970sswivel- puff pastries and tasty gingerbread pastriesandtasty puff men. vourite, thisbakery dishesoutIndiansweets, like tobemore pro-active withtheir cash. taining Kenyantaining plays. amonththistheatreevenings stages enter- excellent freshly roasted coffee. fix,thiscafésells caffeine straightforward Nakuru CoffeeHouse Nakuru Cafe LemonTart Cafe There are well-stocked several supermar- Tipsy Restaurant New CocoSavannaClub Planet Kitchen Nakuru PlayersTheatre Nakuru Tickles Pub Lucky Casino Nakuru SweetMart Nakuru Nakuru Sweet Mart (II) SweetMart Nakuru XTC Discoteque XTC Odeon RIFTVALLEY ••AroundNakuru

(Geoffrey Kamau Rd; Kamau (Geoffrey

(Kenyatta Ave)(Kenyatta

(off Kenyatta Ave)(off Kenyatta

(off MoiRd;mealsKSh75-200)

(Kenyatta Ave)(Kenyatta (Gusii Rd;mainsKSh100-250) (Moi Rd;mealsKSh100-200)

(Gusii Rd)

(Moi Rd;mealsKSh120-220) (Government Ave) Thismellowpubis (Kenyatta Ave)(Kenyatta h

(Kipchoge Ave)(Kipchoge Aperennial fa- 6pm Tue-Sun) For those who Forthose Withstrobe Fora Serving Serving Acav- Four It’sa A A

wardens charging KSh50 onmoststreets. for almostdoublethecost. destinationsandalittleextracomfort same should onlybe donein groupsof atleast four mugged. Tobesafe, the9km walkfrom town it’s rather isolated andtourists have been offers great views back over Nakuru, Lake their waytoheaven. crater after aterritorial battle,trying tomake of defeated Maasai warriors, thrownintothe of steam risingfromthebottomare the souls easily seen. the violentanddramatic volcanichistoryis on theharsh crater floor,some480mbelow, While lushvegetation isnowproliferating cauldron of convoluted blacklava flows. radiate outwardandencirclea90-sq-km jaw-droppingly gorgeous). Striking red cliffs completely different reasons (yes,it’sthat some 8kmaway,yourmouthwill openfor promontory ontheedge of itshiddencrater atopa high whenstanding ing). However, volcano fromNakuru(yes,it’s that bor- at thegentle forested slopesof thisdormant You’d beforgiven foryawningwhenlooking Crater Menengai AROUND NAKURU leave from Kisii (KSh375, 4½hours). 3½ hours), Kisumu(KSh350, 3½hours) and robi (KSh200, three hours), (KSh350, Kitale 2½ hours), Eldoret (KSh200, 2¾hours), Nai- Kericho (KSh200, two hours), Nyeri(KSh250, 1¼ hours), Nyahururu(KSh100, 1¼hours), Mburu Gichuaoff RdforNaivasha(KSh120, geot (shared leave taxi) thechaotic stands andtheoddPeu- matatus Regular buses, &Away There Getting reach thanMarigat. moreslightly andtakes 30minutes longer to Kampi yaSamaki(KSh200, 2½hours) costs leave furthersouthonMburuGichua Rd. viaMarigatBaringo) Bogoria) (for Lake toKampi yaSamaki(forLake while services 3½ hours). (KSh200, 2¾hours) andKisumu(KSh300, Nairobi (KSh200, hours), thee Eldoret westofstation town.Destinationsinclude from theirdepotbehindtheKenol petrol Parking istricky,withyellow-jacketed While hiking totheviewpoint fromtown A grimlocallegend states that theplumes Matatus forMolo (KSh100, onehour) Akamba

Mp p244; (Map Crossland Services Easy Coach George MoraraRd) George

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(Mburu GichuaRd) buses leave buses offers the the offers , ing drinksandtrinkets. This Site Prehistoric Hyrax Hill of and backforKSh1000. There’s asmallgroup or five. Alternatively, up youcantake ataxi www.lonelyplanet.com 50; and 1919. years old,andtwo others datingfrom1918 puzzle –sixIndian coins,oneof them500 pits includedarealitems foundinthese also discovered. Thelarge collectionof otherIronAgeand several burialpitswere explanations have offered. been decapitated, soanumberofbeen colourful majority were maleandlotsof themhad 19skeletonspits containing wasfound.The offoundations, aseries IronAged burial Justnorthoffoundations atthebase. the two‘C’shapedIronAgeyou’ll see stonehut Nakuru inthedistance. flamingo-lined Lake the peak,fromwhere there’s afineviewof top of Youcancontinueto HyraxHill itself. remains of thestone-walledhillfortnear museum. into complete jars andare displayedinthe some of which have piecedtogether been number of pottery fragments were found, Pit Dremains open.Itwashere where great 13 enclosures. Onlythe1965excavation of andoncehoused tothemuseum sits closest which tobeabout400years isbelieved old, Village,KSh100 isplenty.TheNorth-East –atipofrather crypticandaguideisuseful spitting cobra. attheplastic the centuries.Trynottolaugh tion andcultures of RiftValley peoples over years old. years old,themostrecent only200to300 late 1980s,theoldestbeingpossibly3000 excavatedsettlements 1937 andthe between andtheremains amuseum contains of three here, facilities are though limited. and themuseum. the Iron Ageoutcrop between settlements into arock Africa) board carved out East ditional Africangame that’splayedthrough- On amore lively note, there’s a Nearby, twoNeolithicburialmounds Looking downtheothersideof thehill, From PitDthetrailclimbsto scant You’re free towanderthesite, butit’s thedistribu- discusses The tinymuseum It’s now possible to dukas h archaeological site archaeological 8.30am-6pm) (shops)atthemainviewpointsell- is4kmoutsideNakuruand

(Map (Map p244 ; adult/childKSh100/ camp

(per tent KSh500) bao (atra-

RIFT VALLEY NationalPark Nakuru ••Lake noon suncastsawarmglowover thelake. Lake Bogoria.Lake the coopagain,you’ll probablyfindthemat future or floodingmake droughts them fly flamingonumbers blossomagain.If seen of thelastdecadehealthywater have levels food source(blue-green much algae).Over flamingos’ andaffected the lesser salinity 1970s whenheavy rainfalldiluted thelake’s population plummeted, asitlater didinthe dried upin1962(happyfirst birthday!),the lake’s erraticwater Whenthelake levels. andfallenwiththesoda flamingos hasrisen 1961, thepopulationof andgreater lesser A World Wildlife Fund (WWF) project is catchment area have concern. allcaused and massive deforestation withinthewater pesticide run-offfromsurrounding farms, increased. Pollution from Nakuru town, recent years pressures onthelake have the site), justsouthof Nakuru. take (about1kmfrom youpasttheturn-off visited parkafter theMasai Mara. asKenya’sis rivallingAmboseli most second Nakuru NationalParklittle doubtwhyLake myriad of animalandbirdspecies,there’s acacia forests, supportinga androckycliffs shores, rich areas of grassland,euphorbiaand of flamingoslappingatits With apinksea LAKE NAKURUNATIONAL PARK lake’s northernshore. small herdof hippos generally frequents the birds of prey amidthe countless baboons. A youmaycatchof sight the cliffs hyraxes and also agoodchance of seeing leopards. Around furtherinto be seen the bush,where there’s while Thomson’s gazelles and reedbucks can you’ll comeacrosswaterbucks andbuffaloes, to localsasKenyan antennas). Alongshore (known tails their amusinggaitandupright relieflight animalswith fromthe‘serious’ hogs are commonallover thepark,providing ofa glimpse arare tree-climbing lion. Wart- to spot.Ifyou’re very, very lucky,you’llcatch bynature,rhinos, browsers are more difficult years ago.introduced several Theshyblack be commonplacesincethespecieswasre- to nos atthelake’s southern endnowseem that seen fromatop that seen Since the180-sq-kmpark’screation in Sadly, notallis picture perfect, asin Local matatus toNaivashaorNairobiwill Local matatus Sightings ofSightings grazingorlazingwhite rhi- There’s nobetter viewof theparkthan Baboon Cliff as the after- asthe

243 RIFT VALLEY RIFT ὈὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈὈ

RIFT VALLEY Lake NakuruNationalParkLake 244 4 6 1 3 2 5 LAKE NAKURUNATIONALPARK RIFTVALLEY NationalPark Nakuru ••Lake To Eldoret(150km); Kisumu (191km); kma...... A1 Akamba...... SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION Bamboo HutChinese Restaurant... Hostel...... Guesthouse...... Soysambu SpecialCampsite...... Sarova LionHillLodge...... Nyuki SpecialCampsite...... Nyati SpecialCampsite...... Naishi SpecialCampsite...... Naishi HouseBanda...... Makalia FallsPublicCampsite...... Lake NakuruLodge...... Eldorado Lodge...... Backpackers' Campsite...... Hyrax HillPrehistoricSite...... Main GateOffice...... Crater ForexBureau...... Wildlife ClubofKenyaYouth Wildlife ClubofKenya TRANSPORT EATING

Kitale (221km) Njoro A104

Lake Baringo(125km) Lake Bogoria(124km); To Marigat(105km); River ᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲ Baboon Cliff Picnic Site 17 16 B4 Lookout 1 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 See NakuruMap(p240) Nakuru 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Pelican Point A1 C1 C1 C5 C2 C2 C2 B5 B5 B6 C4 D2 B2 C1 B2 B1 Colobus Forest Enasoit Main Makalia gate Warden's Falls Naishi Hill River B House WWF Office& Lake Nakuru Field Study Picnic Site Centre 4 Bridge Lake Nakuru 8 7 Cormorant 2 Airstrip Naishi Bridge 9 Acacia Forest Point Hippo Point

Baharini

Springs

Makalia River Lookout 14 B5 15 10 11 Bridge Lion Hill Lookout To Nyahururu(66km);

12 13 Nderit

4km 2miles 0 0 Euphorbia Nyeri (164km) River Forest Reserve viaNarok(182km) 6 3 To Elementeita (4km); Lanet gate Masai Mara National Cave www.lonelyplanet.com A104 5 Nderit gate Lanet To Naivasha(61km); D Nairobi (146km) Airstrip s/d KSh1000/1500; the Lanet orNderitgates. the Lanet main gate’s guidebooks (KSh750) are available atthe of Nakuru.KWS smartcardsandofficial lia Falls. turesque Maka- andsitsnexttotheseasonal the bestplacetocampinpark.It’spic- cruder facilitiesthanBackpackers’, thisis While itmaybehardtoget toand have quired) liking. and the pool isalittle toogreen for our Theroomsarein theevening. overpriced parkgatescamping ifyourollupto closed gate, thisplace isaviableoption for Lanet out allyourgarbage. out.Andremembering youright tocarry baboons willmake messwhileclean- aright monkeyssecurely and zippedorthevervet If camping,alwaysmake sure yourtents are meals, soyou’llhave tobringyourownfood. None of thefollowingoptionsprovide any &MIDRANGE BUDGET Sleeping The main Information indigenous tree seedlings. ofprogram continuestoplantthousands problems,andthelocalafforestation these making considerableprogress incountering www.lonelyplanet.com fee KSh5000) facilities. gate andalsohasthepark’sbestcamping large publiccampsite sitsinside themain experience –justyouandtheanimals. and have nofacilities,butoffer atruebush are cleanandcomfortable. fridge, gascooker and microwave. Therooms of lounge anduse thekitchen’s showers, TV This placeisgreat –facilitiesinclude hot s/tw KSh500/1000) 850929; dmKSh150, s withshared bathroomKSh300, PO Box 33, Nakuru; s/twwithshared bathroomKSh800/1600) PO Box33,Nakuru; with cookingareas. rooms andtwo-bedded bandas,complete friendly site withclean dorms,simplesingle Backpackers’ Campsite Backpackers’ Makalia Falls PublicCampsite Makalia Special campsites Wildlife Club of Kenya Guesthouse Wildlife ClubofKenya Wildlife Club of Kenya YouthHostel Wildlife ClubofKenya Eldorado Lodge gate isabout2kmsouthof thecentre These are These dotted allover thepark park office Thishostel isanice, very s

(adult/child US$30/10, smartcard re- (adult/child US$30/10,smartcard

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621598; POBox13047,Nakuru) ings andpayments. basic. Thepark’smaingate handlesbook- driverswas designedforsafari andispretty sitting roomandfullkitchen. Theannex complete withalovelyfortable, fireplace, cottage isvery com- charming self-catering doorstep –there are nofences here. This zebras andrhinosgrazingonyourvery hour) andnature walks(KSh800). activities such riding(KSh1550 ashorse per The usualfacilitiesare available, alongwith ask fortheonesthataren’t inthefarmhouse). are thenew‘deluxe’ rooms(make sure you Hill. Theonlyoptionsworththeaskingprice at Lion a bigstep downinqualityfromthose in cute shingle-roofed cottages, are octagonal of thelake, thislodge’s rooms,hous standard ed six hours), and 4WD(about for anopen-toppedeight-seat s/d fromUS$80/120;lowseasonUS$160/190; fullboardhighseason 2733695; www.lakenakurulodge.com; Kenyatta Ave,Kenyatta Nakuru) tions are to bargain hardforit.More enjoyableop- will likely costKSh2000, you’llhave though tohitch forafewenough aride. Ataxi hours have torent goonatourorbelucky ataxi, Walking intheparkisn’tpermitted, soyou’ll &Away There Getting Naishi HouseBanda TOP END excellent B4 Hwy takes some you through The journey north from Nakuru along the TOMARIGAT NORTH jeeps forKSh4500jeeps (alsoforsixhours). end of thelake. road, andtheNderit gate, nearthesouthern gate, afew kilometres south ontheNairobi main gate, justoutside Nakuru,theLanet absolutely stunning. pretty, whiletheflashysuites are large and rooms are great. Roomsare understated but the open-airrestaurant/bar andfrommost andcomfort.Theviewsfrom class service lake’s eastern slopes,this lodge offers first- low seasonUS$160/220; highseasonfullboards/dfromUS$80/140, .sarovahotels.com; US$250) cottage plus2-personannexJan-Jun US$200,Jul-Dec Sarova Lion Hill Lodge LionHill Sarova If you’re driving,there’s access fromthe Lake Nakuru Lodge Nakuru Lake Sitontheshadyterrace andwatch RIFT VALLEY •• North to Marigat RIFT VALLEY toMarigat ••North One WorldTours&Safaris Crater Travel Crater , whoorganise three-seater

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( % ) , whocharge KSh6000 Sitting high upthe Sittinghigh

% ( 051-850228, Nairobi020- %

051-2217151; 6-person ( % 020-2713333; www 051-2215019; off s

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0733- 245 RIFT VALLEY RIFT RIFT VALLEY cattle too. your fair share ofyou’ll see donkeys and ers, Oh,and gazelles, caracals andbuffaloes. end isalso hometo leopards, klipspring- isolated wooded area atthelake’s southern places inKenya thegreater tosee kudu. The Bogoria alsomakes thisoneof thebest Kenyan record. soul spotted 96species inonehour–a 200 specieshave recorded. been Onelucky Swamp ment isahaven forbirdlife andat Amazingly, this alienenviron- inhospitable the earth’sinsides–keep yourdistance! springs ria’s rocky,barren shores, whilenearby moss-green waves Bogo- rolldownLake Rift Valley lake. to visitandaworldawayfromany other adult/child KSh1500/200) this kuru hasrecovered fromearlierdroughts, Na- dropped significantly,nowthatLake flamingonumbers haveWhile lesser since as awetlandof international importance. site, it establishing designated aRamsar of uptotwomillion birds.In2000itwas the flamingo’,withamigrantpopulation lake achieved fameas‘thenewhomeof shallowsoda In thelate 1990sthisreserve’s LAKE BOGORIANATIONAL RESERVE ing upfromthereddish plains. nary numberof huge termites’ neststower- anextraordi- come intoview,andyou’llsee ridges andescarpmentsof theTugen Hills the region. you’ll findsweet don’tworryas you blinkandmissRadat, kiosks bythevodka-bottle full(KSh100). If best village knowntoproducesomeof Kenya’s hills.Atthebottomsits tant of briefglimpses theredsee plainsanddis- the roadsidetoeastdropsaway,you’ll todescendand,as Soonyou’llstart tance. inthedis- appear the bluesof Baringo Lake ofof reds, thesea greens, browns andmeek ding thefurthernorthyougo. Suddenly,out turns dryanddusty,getting more forbid- around theequator,where thelandscape dramatic changes of scenery,particularly 246 The lackof brusharoundLake dense Backed bythebleakSiracho Escarpment, As youapproach Marigat thespectacular RIFTVALLEY NationalReserve Bogoria ••Lake asali reserve , justnorthof thepark,more than and (honey). They sell itfromroadside (honey).Theysell geysers

( % 0722-377252; PO Box 64, Marigat; 0722-377252; POBox64,Marigat; asali spewboilingfluidsfrom isstillafascinatingplace for sale throughout throughout forsale Radat , atiny Kesubo Kesubo hot lets KSh500/800) quire atLoboigate. KSh500/1000), en- like aguide(half-/full-day clear of population. Ifyou’d thesmallbuffalo able toexplore stay onfootorbicycle,though Younowhaveyourself. thebonusof being meaning youmaywellhave theplaceto springs, few peopleventure furthersouth, and VIPS campsites. thedismal HotSprings blow the socksoff bring your ownwater. AcaciaandFigTree on which yourtent canrest. You’llhave to site shadedbyacacias, with somesoft grass the tripalone. or hike isworth fromthemainparkroad water stream. The2kmdrive (4WDonly) views downthelake andapermanent fresh- buttherecan beanuisance, are brilliant site. Sure thelooslackdoors andbaboons ofa stand massive figtrees isthisfantastic the Loboigate. top-end hotel nearbyandvariousdives near Ifyou’dpreferthe reserve. aroof, there’s a optionwithin istheonlysleeping Camping Sleeping &Eating While theodd Kenyan touristvisitsthe Papyrus Inn Acacia Camp Fig Camp Tree ilies are sub-clans of the Kalenjin tribe.ilies are sub-clansoftheKalenjin Moi,mostdisplacedfam- Like 2002 election. Moi’s government duringtherun-upto the much ofthelandwasillegallyallocated by The present government alsobelieves that fragileleft ofKenya’s forest environment. wereevictions necessarytoprotect what’s (a mere 1.7%),thegovernment claimedthe of Molo. dismalforest CitingKenya’s cover Forest, whichsitswestofNakuruandsouth 50,000 localsfromtheirhomesintheMau ment forciblyevicted between10,000and govern- Kenyan In July2005MwaiKibaki’s MAU FORESTEVICTIONS coming years. storm willonlycontinuetoheatupinthe andMtElgon,thepoliticalfire- Mt Kenya scheduledfortheforestsevictions around situation tothatofZimbabwe. Withfuture the outrage,withcriticslikening sparked the lackofoptionsgiven totheevictees has The forceusedduringtheremovals and This overpriced place isin a bit

(camping KSh500) (

% (camping KSh500) 051-2216980; s/tw withshared toi- www.lonelyplanet.com Apretty lakeside Nestledbeneath wanachi.com; s/dinclbreakfast US$70/90; Lakes Baringo&Bogoria Lakes www.lonelyplanet.com redeeming feature. ity totheLoboigate isprobablyitsonly therooms.Itsproxim- and filthpervading of state, really, asad withcrumbling walls vegetarian options. avariety of dishes, including several serves KSh600/700, mainsKSh100 toKSh350) on-site restaurant (lunch/dinner buffets modern and much more The comfortable. tages (which are price)are thesame more large inthenew cot- whilethose andbright, spring-fed. Theroomsinthehotel are with twoswimming pools,oneof them Loboi gate, thishotel isa qualityoption lovely grounds around2kmbefore the & BOGORIA LAKES BARINGO 4 1 3 2 (24km) To Kabarnet Lake Bogoria Hotel Bogoria Lake (60km) Nakuru To SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES VIPs Camp...... Samatian Island...... Papyrus Inn...... Island CampBaringo...... Hot SpringsCamp...... Fig TreeCamp...... Acacia Camp...... Reserve HQ...... Hot Springs&Geysers...... aeBgraHtl...... B3 Lake BogoriaHotel......

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River ( % 10 B4 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Samaki Kampi ya B3 B1 B3 B2 B4 B4 B4 B3 B4 051-2216441; lakebogoria@ 051-2216441; lakebogoria@ Loruk Parmalok Logumukum Island Loboi gate Lake Bogoria 10 7 Moto Maji gate National Rongena Reserve Emsos Island ὅ ὅ Kesubo Swamp gate B aringo 3miles 5km 0 0 5 2 L ake 8 6 B 9 s

Ol Kokwe

To Maralal

Lake Island (109km)

Siracho Bogoria (128km)

) Maralal

3 Set in Set

Waseges Mogotio Escarpment (22km)

To River 4 To Laikipia Escarpment Kamco Hotel Kamco a localmeal: good placetobuylocalproduceorhave and beautifulfeathered flyers. from allover therare theworldtoglimpse For years bird-watchers have comehere 1200 birdspeciesnative toKenya present. abundance of birdlife, withover 450of the Topping thescenicsurroundsisan amazing indeed. sight their eyelids,isaspectacular with picturesque islandsandhipposbatting anditssurface dottedcled bymountains This rare freshwater RiftValley lake, encir- % LAKE BARINGO 4WD. a serious poorly signposted andinaccessiblewithout butbothof routesthe B4highway, are these tio, which isabout38kmpastNakuruon for EmsosandMaji Motogates isatMogo- west andLoboiinthenorth.Theturn-off ria –Emsosinthesouth,Maji Motointhe There are three entrancegates Bogo- toLake &Away There Getting Union Hotel the situation isstillvery delicate, and with againrecently,water hasrisen level but days israrely more than15cmlong. The these fished so badlythatanytilapia caught always muddy; andthelake over- has been (creeks) thatthewater hasmeant isalmost to soilerosionaround theseasonal eral hundred metres; due severe siltation alarmingly, pulling theshoreline backsev- thewater todrop level caused and droughts over the pastfew years. Irrigation dams plagued withvariousproblemshas been site inJanuary Ramsar Baringo 2002,Lake section. springs, butishorrendous shapeinthis roadcontinuestothehot road. Thesealed here totheactualgate alongagoodsealed shortlybeforeoff Marigat. It’s20kmfrom point of entry, reached aturn- bytaking Kabarnet (KSh140, 1¼hours). gat fromNakuru(KSh180, twohours) and Mari- 30 minutes). serve Regularmatatus fromMarigat bymatatu be accessed (KSh50, The townof Marigat, located isa nearby, Despite beinglisted asKenya’s fourth Loboi gate isafarmore straightforward Without yourownvehicle, Loboigate can The nearest petrolisfoundinMarigat. 051 RIFT VALLEY Baringo ••Lake (offB4Hwy;mealsKSh40-150) (offB4Hwy;mealsKSh40-150) luggas 247

RIFT VALLEY RIFT RIFT VALLEY Community Boats&Excursions the following: contrived) photoopportunities. fish atawhistle,makingforgreat (ifslightly fisheaglesfeeding; thebirdsdive for to see price. Aspecialityisatrip cut anyoneelse’s to have accesstoaboatandbeableunder- towillclaim and literally youtalk everyone robi –there are boatofficesallover town, competitively astheMasai Mara isinNai- Kampi ya Samaki; perboathrKSh2200) yaSamaki; Kampi Roberts’ Camp Roberts’ Club Baringo Lake areBaringo The mostpopularactivitiesaroundLake BOAT RIDES Sights &Activities Marigat’s postoffice. 40km west,whileInternet accessisfoundin est bankingfacilitiesare inKabarnet about Thenear- tobethecase. no longer seems a toll(KSh200) toenter thetown,butthis Kampi yaSamakihastraditionallycharged Information would greatly appreciate thebusiness. for thecommunity. bers todrop,resulting times tougher ineven recent problemshave visitornum- caused pends almostentirely ontourism.Sadlythe tobeafishingvillage, butnowitde- used north of Marigat. Thissmall,quiettown on thelake’s western shore, some15km remains atrisk. expected theecosystemfurther droughts 248 walk it’s hard toresist onadawn off setting Samaki. Even ifyou’re notanavid twitcher, on theface of theescarpment nearKampi ya the trees aroundthe lake, intherushes and There’s twittering frombirdsin aconstant BIRD WALKS hours youcanvisit OlKokweIsland. to check outParmalok Island. Withthree the shoreline, whiletwo hours allowsyou sengers. Aone-hour tripallowsyoutocruise pas- Most boatsaccommodate uptoseven per hrKSh2400) boat perhrKSh7000) The mostreliable tripsare organised by It’s stillalovely placetovisitandlocals accessiseasiestfrom Lake RIFTVALLEY Baringo ••Lake , when youwill have agood chance of ( boat rides % ( 851879; Kampi ya Samaki; perboat ya Samaki; 851879; Kampi % 850880; Kampi ya Samaki; per ya Samaki; 850880; Kampi , which are touted as ( % Kampi yaSamaki Kampi 0720-523874; bird s/tw with shared bathroom KSh1000/2000, 4-person cot- Roberts’ Camp Roberts’ &MIDRANGE BUDGET Sleeping rock-climbing town isalsoapparently for suitable than bird-watching! but itsoundsabitmoresightings, exciting ing. Sofarnovisitors have confirmedthese flamesandhearscream- ing youcansee claim- theplace atnight, who won’tgonear locals, amongthenormally prosaic utation uncharted your boat,there’s anuninhabited even and If nothingmentionedsofarhas floated OTHER ACTIVITIES KSh500 charge for entering each village. to buyhandicrafts.There’s anadditional take photos,butyou’llprobably behassled usually beabletowalkaroundfreely and practising pastoralismandfishing. You’ll Islands andaroundthelakeshore, mainly Maasai andlive onOlKokwe andParmalok (KSh 600);theNjempsare cousinsof the Tugen andNjempsvillages tothelake close Cluboffers Baringo Lake tours toPokot, CULTURAL TOURS about KSh300 perperson. & Excursions leadslessrewarding walksfor andCommunityBoats walk. Roberts’Camp KSh1100 perperson fora60-to90-minute most knowledgeable guides,anditcharges Cluboffers Baringo in action.Lake the hornbillsoramagnificentfisheagle seeing outsideof the The rockformingthecliffs us –cuespeedyretreat! directly infrontof from theglassysurface knew itthere were 12 to15snoutspoking day whileatthewater’s edge,andbefore we the beautyofanearly-morningsunriseone standing closetotheshore. Wegotlostin than ever –soyou’dbestbecareful when gling, crocodilepopulationsare healthier While somelife isindeedstrug- inthelake SHORELINE SURPRISES member yourbugrepellent. of ariskhere –whatever youdo,re- more a threat, pose malarialmosquitosactually While crocodiles(andhippos)dopose ‘Devil’s Island’ ‘Devil’s .

( % 851879; camping KSh350,bandas withafearsome rep- www.lonelyplanet.com technical technical maki; s/twwithshared bathroomKSh200/400) maki; Jul-Oct US$150/180; Jul-Oct & Nov–mid-Dec fullboard s/dUS$120/150,mid-Dec–Mar highseason& yaSamaki; Kampi [email protected]; s/tw KSh350/700) and alittlerough. rooms are quite clean.Theloosare outside distorted lake crude,the views.Although room KSh100) tages KSh5000) www.lonelyplanet.com Lake Baringo Club Baringo Lake TOP END a swimming pool, games room, badminton races andlinoleum floors. Facilities include ter- beds,wee wooden ceilings, comfortable are ifuninspired, pleasant, withangled gardens, this isagrandold place. Therooms be apain. loudmusicfrom thebarcan the constant soap andhotwater are often lackingand toiletpaper, beds;sadly and comfortable rooms thatcomewithfans,mosquito nets town’s maindrag,Weavers hasgood-sized should betreated withrespect. Remember thattheyare wildanimalsand some readers have calls! haddecidedlyclose hurt byahippoinalmost15years here, but seriously flash photography.Noone’sbeen or loudnoises torches (flashlights), lights, young, anddon’tfrighten themwithhead- them whenyoucan,especiallyiftheyhave atleast20m awayfrom you shouldstay just ametre of your tent Ideally atnight. garding thehippos,which maygrazewithin re- toexercise somecommonsense need atmospheric placeforasnooze. Campers large loft andairyambience,isthemost Hammerkop cottage, withitsmassive deck, botheryou,thewooden the oddbatdoesn’t shared If cookingfacilitiesforself-caterers. (including campingfees) andthere are even tents, withbedding,forKSh850 perperson restaurant/bar. Theyalsorent four-person cottages aswellanopen-air comfortable lake andoffers great campingfacilities, site.Club, isthisfantastic onthe It’sright Baringo Samaki’s maindrag,nexttoLake rather odoriferous. are alittleshabbybutOK.Thetoilets are which isgenerally agoodsign!Therooms popular withthedrivers of vehicles, safari Lake View Lodge View Lake Bahari Lodge&Hotel Bahari Weavers Lodge Weavers Thinkprisoncellblockwith Easily spotted Kampi off Easily ya Downarockyalleyoffthe s

(

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) ( Set insprawlinglakeside Set % 850880, Nairobi020-650500; block 0721-556153; Kampi ya Samaki; yaSamaki; 0721-556153; Kampi

851413; swithshared bath- ( % 851425; Kampi yaSa- 851425; Kampi Bahari is Bahari as halfboards/twUS$60/80; yaSamaki; lodge.com; Kampi ya Samakiare included. the gloriousisolation.Transfers fromKampi isworthitfor a unit,andtheheftypricetag three chalets onthistinyislandare rented as clusive experience,thisistheplacetobe. The ing wallet’stongue. your taste budswillstep onyourwhinge- ofgets awhiff theMoroccanmeatballs, fare. It’sa bitpricey,butwhenyournose awelcomevarietyof foreign and barserves full boards/dUS$220/295; you’ll soon be laughing again. you’ll soonbelaughing on theshadyterrace orlakeside lawnand KSh120 foralarge Tusker, onesipof it cellent. Whileyoumayshedatear paying hope forthisprice,thefoodismostly ex- buffets KSh1300/1460,mainsKSh300-700) KSh300-450) Thirsty Goat Thirsty Eating &Drinking Baringo. turing beautifulbirdssighted aroundLake for KSh200. There’s slideshowfea- anightly court andlibrary,are opentononguests fers fromtown. sports equipment.Thepriceincludestrans- lake. Facilities includetwobars andwater- among floweringtrees, alloverlooking the tifully conceived with23doubletents set and itmakes aperfect hideaway.It’sbeau- lodge sitsonOlKokweIsland’ssoutherntip, stodge. restaurants, thisisthebestplaceforcheap Kampi yaSamaki’sfew remaining local Marigat usually hasa goodselection. ya Samaki. Bring much of – what youneed only avery limited stockavailable inKampi are generally inshort supply,andthere’s freshRoberts’ Camp, vegetables andfruit maybeavailable at while somefoodstuffs its onlyredeeming feature. and theplacehaszeroambience. Air-con is butsotrue. Roomsarerooms –sosad bland lot shouldhave thelake viewsinstead of the ex-president theparking Moi’sson,thought ya Samaki; fullboards/dUS$255/510) ya Samaki; Soi Safari Lodge Soi Safari Lake Baringo Club Baringo Lake Bahari Lodge&Hotel Bahari Island Camp Baringo Island Camp Samatian Island Self-caterers should keep in mindthat Self-caterers ) Strangely thisnewlodge, owned by Thislovely open-airrestaurant RIFT VALLEY Baringo ••Lake

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Of 249 RIFT VALLEY RIFT RIFT VALLEY (KSh140, 1¼hours). Nakuru (KSh160, twohours) orKabarnet more frequent fromthere matatus onto to Marigat (KSh50, 30 minutes) andcatch one of theregular pick-uptrucksheading that,hoponto departs whenit’sfull).Bar 6.30amand9.30am(itmorning between busleavesA 25-seater forNakurueach &Away There Getting 250 © LonelyPlanetPublications the above - ‘Do the right thing withour content.’ the above -‘Do theright the termsandconditions onoursitefor alongerwayof saying youknow, orresell it.See everyone site,massemailit to only. Inother words,please don’t uploadthischapter toapeer-to-peer Inreturn, wethink it’sfairtoask you touseitforpersonal, non-commercial purposes restricted. © LonelyPlanetPublications. iteasier foryoutouse,accessthischapter isnotdigitally Tomake RIFTVALLEY Baringo ••Lake no reliable supplyuntilMaralal. it’s worthnotingthatafter Marigat, there’s Club;ifyou’reBaringo headingnortheast, YoucanusuallybuypetrolatLake difficult. transport alongitandhitching isextremely butbearableroad;there’sa rough nopublic alal road.Ifyouhave yourowntransport,it’s end of thelake withtheNyahururu toMar- A gravel trackconnectsLorukatthetop www.lonelyplanet.com