Ivan Bart in Paris, July 201.3. Jen Ramey. Kyle Hagler
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TOP ROW, FROM LEFT: IVAN BART IN PARIS, JULY 201.3. JEN RAMEY. KYLE HAGLER. LOUIE CHABAN, FAITH KATES IN NEWYORK JULY 2013 BOTTOM ROW.FROM LEFT:CHRIS GAY.DAVID BONNOUVRIEB.DIDIER FERNANDEZ.PAUL ROWLAND AND JOHN GNERRE INNEWYORK, JULY 2013. 322 EÑTS 10. BEHIND emw SUCCESSFUL MODEL, THERE IS a TIRELESS AGENT WWHOO ü CCONSTANTLO Y DRAFTED INTO A WIDE RANGE of ROLES. FROM SSHOOTESHARPSHOOTERR ANANDD WHEELWHEELERE - DEAJ.ER TO BEST FRIEND aiid PROTECTOR, TO COACH, CONFIÜANT, PSTCHOLOGIST, PARENTi\L GVlJM.and BRAND STRATEGIST TEN ÚF the INDUSTRY S MOST INFLUENTIAL PLAYERS OPEN UP ABOUT THEIR LIVES AT the INTERSECTION OF BEAUTY and BUSINESS JHEIR OWN PATHS TO GLORY, AND WHY THE JOB ISN T ÍUST ABOUT FLYING AROUND THE WORLD IN SEARCH o/FRESH- FACED GIRLS, STEERING the CAREERS OF MONONYMOUS ÜBER WOMEN, AND GOING to EXTRAVAGANT PARTIES— ALTHOUGH, TÉERE S ALL THAT, TOO. Bu DAVID COLMAN Photography STEVEN PAN Styling VANESSA CHOW 323 "UNLESS YOU REALLY LIKE ACTING, DON'T EVEN TRY. MOST PEOPLE THINK THAT A TOP MODEL IS GOING TO GO INTO THE WORLD OE ACTING. WELL. I SAY, YOU BETTER BE GOOD." IVAN BART IMG MODELS IVAN BART: Before you start asking me quesdons, everyone's personal history and their perspecdves on grew up in Bensonhurst It's actually not 6r from the Ver- I hope it gets stated in this thing that, for the record, how the modeHng business has changed over the last raaano Bridge. It's stiH fim to go on a summer night to ride that I didn't want to pardcipate. 20 or 30 years. It's not about who has a better agency. the Cyclone—sdU, to this day, it's the scariest thing. DAVID COLMAN: Okay BART: That's fine. But when you put compedtors COLMAN: So I guess you grew up wanting to make BART: Because—and this is key—^I always feel Hke our in a room ... It would be the same thing if we were it in New Ysrk? work is really about our cHents. It's not about us. There doing a story on Interview, Vanity Fair, V Magazine, BART: I really was very confused for a long time seems to be a big push for me to parddpate. Also, for the and Vogue. One would feel Hke, what are their per- about what I wanted to do. I thought I wanted to record, I want to say that I'm vety proud of some of the specdves and how do they compare? So it is what it is. be a psychologist, so I have a psych degree. Then I managers that are at IMG who are being featured but COLMAN: I don't think the average reader knows took time on to try to figure it out, and I did what a also I want it to be stated that it's really about the global enough about the differences between modeling agen- lot of people did, got a backpack and toured Europe team of IMG Models—^its five offices. I feel where we des to actuaHy evaluate, "Oh, weH ... It's a compeddon." for a while. I realized I didn't want to be in clini- outweigh our compedtors is the feet that we do have a BART: Which is even more key as to why I want the cal psychology. I didn't want to deal with people's network that's very strong and is in au the fashion capi- consumer to understand that we are the best [laughs] pain every day. I wanted to be in something that was tals: New York, London, Müan, Paris, and now Sydney. We work hard. We take our jobs very seriously. Man- a Htde bit more Hvely, exciting, fun. I started doing We're very connected and we work weH, and by featur- aging talent and managing it weH is what we do daily. PR, and this PR firm had a very small modeling ing some of our managers, it's not to say that there aren't COLMAN: How did you get into the modeling industry? firm attached to it—^this was in 1986—so I took my many, many more of equal importance. BART: I was raised in Brooklyn. I'm a Brooklynite. I'm opportunity to work at this modeHng firm and learn. COLMAN: The story is more about getdng a flavor of very happy that Brooklyn's getdng its hipster moment I I started representing (CONTINUED ON PAGE 347) 324 "PEOPLE THINK IT'S JUST EASY-PEASY—GET YOUR PICTURE TAKEN. AND IT'S REALLY NOT' JEN RAMEY IMG MODELS DAVID COLMAN: How did you end up in the to come around—Mario was stiU a model with Men. happened. Kate was in it—she was completely sick modeling business? He used to come eat lunch and fall asleep on our couch. and had the fiu. Those days were so fun. You'd stay JEN RAMEY: I was a high school dropout from Mar- Then he started taking pictures and went to London and out undl five in the morning and come to work at ietta, Georgia, doing a bunch of jobs here and there, brought a Utde girl called Kate Moss back Paul was her nine. We were on Greene Street and Marc was on and I started dating a male model. I went to a barbecue agent and basicaUy treated me Hke shit, so I was wash- Spring Street. We used to go over and have beers at his agent's house, and they were Uke, "Do you want ing windows and emptying garbage and stuff. But Kate and eat pizza and look at fabrics. Everybody was a job?" I was Uke "Okay." You got to wear what you and I hit it off and became friends. We kind of grew up sdU having a good dme and being creadve. Every- want, hang out with people your own age, and talk on together because we were both new. It just worked out body loved Kate so much. I lived a lot through her. the phone—^what could be better? But I did want to get COLMAN: This was in '92? COLMAN: Where did you two Uve? out of Georgia, so I moved to Chicago. I worked there RAMEY: Yeah, I was there for more than a year RAMEY: On Waverly Place. Two fioors and a roof for two years, but there wasn't really much of a fashion before Kate showed up. Kate and I did everything garden of deliciousness. Carolyn Bessette lived on thing going on there, so I figured I had to go to New together—traveled, hung out, Uved together. She was the first floor. Kate used to Uve in the back house. It York I had three interviews set up, and I met with Paul quite shy. She wasn't Kate Moss, she was just Kate. became such a place of fun and pardes and fairy Ughts Rowland at Women and worked there for forever. T"hen I quit Women. Or was fired. I'd had enough. and big piUows aU over and carpets on the roof... It COLMAN: WTiat girls were there at the dme? COLMAN: What was fashion like at the dme? was so much fun. It just was happening. RAMEY: Robyn Mackintosh, Cynthia Antonio, Shana RAMEY: Those were the times of Christy, Naomi, COLMAN: What other girls did you work with? Zadrick, Michèle Quan. It was, like, four of us around a Linda. Then grunge hit with the Marc Jacobs- RAMEY: Emma Balfour, CeciUa Dean ... card table. Mario Sorrend and his brother Davide used Perry Ellis show. Nobody knew what it was when it COLMAN: Cecilia is (CONTINUED ON PAGE .347) 325 "YOU WILL NEVER KNOW WHY YOU GOT THE JOB OR WHY YOU DIDN T. THE CHOICE COULD BE BASED ON AN EXPERIENCE THE CASTING DIRECTOR HAD AS A CHILD. IT COULD BE BASED ON MOVIE THEY SAW OR A BOOK THEY READ." KYLE HAGLER TMG MODELS DAVID COLMAN: How did you end up in New York? I took it more seriously than I think I needed to. I new guy at IMG, and he was shaking things up and KYLE HAGLER: I was bom in Orange, New Jersey, flew on my o'wn dime to New York and asked for making things happen. I met with him, and afrer a to a single mom who was going to med school while meedngs at adverdsing agencies and talked about couple of hours, he said, "We would love for you to I was gro'wing up. It was not a fasliion environment changing the paper quality and hiring models for start here in two weeks." I accepted on the spot. at all. But I was drawn to fashion—hyper-interested random photo shoots. This was for a small coUege COLMAN: What did you start doing there? Who in models and what they were doing. At that dme, magazine! I dealt a lot with Elite in Atlanta. But were the girls you were working 'with? it was Naomi, Linda, Beverly Peele, Christy Turl- then they killed the fashion secdon. HAGLER: Afrer about six months, I was moved to ington, Stephanie Seymour ... There was a lot of COLMAN: So you kept going in fashion afrer that? their development board, where I found myself on tele'vised presence of fashion and models and House HAGLER: All through college, the goal was to scoudng trips around the country every weekend of Style. I would go to the city and sneak into night- become an entertainment attorney.