2 Apparel Online India 3 Apparel Online India 4 Apparel Online India 5 Apparel Online India vol. XVI Issue 24 Editor-in-Chief DEEPAK MOHINDRA Editor ILA SAXENA Chief Response Editor VINITA PANDEY Copy Editor VEERESHWAR SOBTI March 16-31, 2014 Asst. Editor-News CONTENTS DHEERAJ TAGRA Asst. Editor-Fashion shraddha gupta Asst. Editor NEHA CHHETRI Sr. Correspondent-Fashion kusha kapila Director - Sales & Marketing RAGHAV SOOD 08826000378 Creative Team RAJ KUMAR CHAHAL PEEUSH JAUHARI SATYAPAL BISHT Photo Editor JITENDER MEERWAL Subscription Enquiry RANI MAHENDRU 011-47390000 Operation Director MAYANK MOHINDRA 09810611487 10 26 32 38 42 Publisher & Managing Director RENU MOHINDRA 09810058986, 9810438653 WorldWrap Head Office Apparel Resources Pvt. Ltd. Leasing fashion the next big thing in retail B-32, South Extension-I, New Delhi-110 049 While men's tuxedo rentals were well-known even a Phone: 91-11-24602283, 47390000 decade ago, formal-wear for women was more or less unheard off and women were left to borrow from friends Fax: 91-11-24604597 10 rather than splurge for a one-time event... E-mail: [email protected] Web associate: www.apparelresources.com Apparel Online contact: 91-11-47390000 LeadStrategy [email protected]  N Chandran, Chairman & Managing Director, [email protected] Eastman Exports Global Clothing. Printing  Virender Uppal, Chairman, Richa Global Exports. TARA ART PRINTERS PVT. LTD. 16 B-4, Hans Bhawan, B.S. Zafar Marg, New Delhi-110002 Tel: 23378626, 23379686 ------Tex-File Is it no more alluring to be a subscription FORM Nominated Supplier? Yes, I wish to subscribe to Apparel Online for In a bid to have control over PD, quality and timely delivery of inputs including fabric and accessories, major international by regular mail 26 brands and retailers had taken to nominated business... India Rs. 1800.00 24 issues by courier Delhi/NCR Rs. 2400.00 24 issues H2F Rest of India Rs. 3600.00 24 issues Ambiente 2014: Various countries and International USD 264.00 24 issues cultures on exhibit Name ______Amongst the most successful consumer goods fair for more 32 than a decade, Ambiente, Frankfurt 2014 covered three core Designation ______areas – dining, living and giving... Company/Institute ______Address ______FashionBusiness Tel/Mobile ______E-mail ______‘Bralets’ Fall’14: Collections reveal a missed opportunity for Indian exporters Type of business On the surface, ‘bralets’ are most likely to be perceived as Exporter Retailer Buying House a miniscule ready-to-wear product, owing to their size and 38 Any other (specify) ______structure but its presence on the runway... Subscription within India- Send Cheque/DD to Apparel Resources Pvt. Ltd. B-32, South Extn. Part-1, New Delhi-110049, INDIA ValueAddition International subscription (in Dollar) - From handcrafted to the machine-made Credit Card using www.apparelresources.com world of quilting... Telegraphic transfer to Bank Account No. 03192320003806 Quilting, since the colonial times, has been a popular technique (Swift No:HDFCINBB) with HDFC Bank, D-9, South Extn. 42 in India to repurpose scraps of materials into handicraft quilt Part-2, New Delhi-110049. INDIA blankets for providing warmth...

6 Apparel Online India | MARCH 16-31 2014 7 Apparel Online India mindtree

and also with market feedback. Last year we With business moving upward and buyers looking to expanded, adding few machines in various increase orders over the year, where is the focus of departments like stitching and finishing. Right Mind investment with the industry today getting ready for the now there is no focused plan or need, but as projected boom? As an individual company, where is the not only the US, but even Europe is giving investment thrust for you – adding capacity, upgrading good business, expansion may be required in near future. To improve our systems we have treeTOPIC OF DEBATE machines or are you looking to improve systems? increased focus on quality and installed few machines specifically for that.

Rajeev Bansal, MD, Celestial India, Noida  an investment of Rs. 1.5 crore and its capacity Gulshan Kumar Sawhney, Proprietor, We are going in for some major expansions this is 400 metres per day. I don’t see the current North India Exports  I have not seen any year as I strongly feel that it is the time when the situation as very optimistic, as challenges are improvement in the market as even the US US economy is coming out of the woods and still there both on the buyer’s front as well as on has not given satisfactory orders due to bad Europe should come out by the end of this year India’s front. There will be normal incremental weather, while Europe has still not picked up. or may be early next year. With the increased growth, whereas our investment is concerned Earlier we used to get 40 per cent repeat but capacity we will definitely add some new buyers it was our need as we are also doing smaller this time if we get even 5 per cent of that, also. Along with expansion in garmenting quantities of women’s and children’s wear and we will consider our self lucky. Despite being we are also looking at some lines in textiles, digital printing allows us to develop faster fond of new technology I can’t install any new whether upstream or downstream, digital and beyond the limitations of traditional technology or upgrade in such conditions. I have printing, schiffli embroidery or may be in dyeing screen printing. Secondly, in short quantities, observed that few exporters who have installed or rotary printing. It may take 2 to 3 months to one has high percentage of rejections, so some machines, have preferred second-hand take a final decision, but the total investment keeping all these things in mind we added the ones, rather than going in for new ones. will be about Rs. 15 to 20 crore. In next three digital printers. years we should triple our business. Himanshu Jain, Proprietor, Attire Fashions, Rajkumar, Partner, Lila Shyam Exports, Jaipur  Orders for small or medium level Amarjeet Singh, CEO, Indigo Apparel, Delhi  Pushkar  Adding capacity is a routine for us players are still not increasing as per the We have recently added two digital printers with as we keep pace with changing needs of buyers expectations, so companies like us are not

8 Apparel Online India | MARCH 16-31, 2014 mindtree

looking for fresh or big expansion. Whereas the condition in export market where orders upgrading of machines are concerned, we are just are increasing slowly. We create variety in our looking for some attachments and spare parts so products, and while earlier we were into only we can be more productive and cost-effective. synthetic products, but with domestic we When orders will come in, expansion will be into entered into 100 per cent cotton products; so stitching and finishing section mainly. some machines have changed accordingly. Mind Our labour also asks for Japanese machines rather than Chinese so we went for the same. Vivek Agarwal, Director, KTC Export, Kolkata tree  One has to see it from a different perspective QUESTION as whatever orders are increasing and the growth Sunil Ramchandra Kokare, Opera Clothing, which we are looking at this year is only what Mumbai  Yes, orders are increasing and we While many people claim that there is we were missing in the previous years so where are expecting at least 10 per cent growth, so greater transparency in the industry is the requirement for capacity enhancement as along with adding 400 stitching machines we than a decade ago, with many platforms already we had enough capacity and that was not will go for some embroidery machines with to share information and conduct open being utilized completely. If the things remain in appliqué work. debates on issues of concern…, the our favour, the company is expecting 25 to 30 per fact remains that still many exporters cent growth this year. Adding capacity, upgrading are very tight-lipped and not open to machines is the second stage. Vikram Singh Shekhawat, Director, Rainbow Texfab, India  There is some increase in sharing company details and working for orders compared to last few years but not the betterment of the industry… What Davinder Singh, MD, Davinder Sandhu Impex, too much, still it is good so we are now able is your opinion, do you think that total Ludhiana  We were already prepared for more to use our full capacity as earlier only 200 or transparency is important for everyone orders from the export front and as we have 250 machines were in use, but from last few to grow as an industry or selective recently launched our domestic brand ‘Dossil’ so months we are using all our 325 machines. We sharing of information is enough?

we upgraded our self by changing our Chinese have recently increased space in our existing Post your comments on machines with Japanese ones. Our winter season factory so the material movement can easily Be a part of our latest discussions... of domestic market proved fruitful so we are take place. If this current situation of orders http://www.linkedin.com/groups?home=&gid=4128357&trk=anet_ug_hm sure for the summer season also. Almost same is remains, one can plan later for more capacity.

MARCH 16-31, 2014 | Apparel Online India 9 worldwrap

WORLDSNIPS Leasing fashion Abercrombie & Fitch Co. opens 16 stores the next big thing in retail abroad; while closing 60-70 US stores Rental e-commerce caters to budget-friendly consumers Abercrombie & Fitch Co. While men's tuxedo rentals were well-known even a decade ago, formal-wear for will continue its expansion women was more or less unheard off and women were left to borrow from friends overseas, especially in China, rather than splurge for a one-time event. With the onset of recession and the aftermath, even as it shrinks its US store this has changed and today online fashion rentals are drawing a lot of attention, network. The American retailer expects to open 16 new stores considered by many fashion-conscious budget-friendly consumers as a blessing in in the foreign market this year, disguise. And if retail watchers are to be believed, rental e-commerce is here to stay... with domestic development limited to outlet stores. Meanwhile, it expects to close hough the concept of to withstand and even benefit from the 60 to 70 US stores as their fashion rentals has really economic recession of the time, when leases expire. Till date, it has picked up over the last people were clouting in uncertainties closed 220 US stores since two years, it has roots regarding spending money. While various 2010, culling under-performers much before the recession companies selling high-end luxury items from its portfolio. Amongst its Tset in. The pioneers of this change took a hit in recession, the rental portals international openings, seven have been marketers Lloyd Lapidus offered women a more economical way are planned for China which and Finance professional Greg Pippo to look fashionable without spending a includes a flagship Abercrombie who noticed that the women around bombshell on it. & Fitch in Shanghai. them were constantly borrowing each Though budget-conscious fashion lovers other’s jewellery and handbags for are a great target market for the online Victoria’s Secret special occasions. Together in 2004, continues foreign rental industry, another ideal customer they founded Bag Borrow or Steal, base consists of individuals going expansion one of the founding companies in the through temporary stages of rapid size online fashion rental industry. Through L Brands Inc., parent company change, including pregnant women and Bag Borrow or Steal, customers could of Victoria’s Secret continues its small children. The rental module offers choose between designer’s handbags, foreign expansion and expects options to simply rent out items in their sunglasses, jewellery and other to open 100 stores in 2014, current size rather than paying full price accessories, which they could rent including six additional locations for clothing that won’t fit in just a few for a month at a fraction of the retail in the UK. Till date the company months. To capture such a consumer price and then return it or if they loved has opened 160 international base, Belly Bump Boutique, which was it, they could pay the rest of the cost stores in 2013, for a total of established in 2008, rents out elegant, and keep it. Also known as Avelle, the 863 locations. The first four special-occasion dresses for women company became a known name after in all stages of pregnancy. The idea Victoria’s Secrets in the Middle being featured in the movie ‘Sex and which spurred the start of this venture East opened in 2013, through the City.’ was when Founder Julie Ann Christoi its franchise agreement with Siksa saw her 7-months pregnant M.L. Alshaya Co. and 10 more After Avelle paved the way for high- friend struggling to find an affordable are expected to open this year. end fashion rentals, Harvard Business School graduates Jennifer Hyman and dress for a wedding. “There are over 4 Michael Kors opens a Jenny Fleiss took advantage of this million pregnant mothers in the US, who new flagship in China nascent retail format and utilized the spend an estimated US $ 1.5 billion on opportunity to expand on this concept maternity clothing each year. I knew that American fashion brand Michael to include luxury-clothing items, and in an alternative solution needed to become Kors has opened a new flagship 2009, ‘Rent the Runway’ was born. Also, available when it came to maternity in China, sprawling across 6000 referred to as the ‘Netflix of fashion’, formal wear,” informs Julie. sq. ft., which is the brand’s this member’s only online portal rents Time and again many players are largest in the mainland. The out clothing and accessories from more entering this segment to cash upon two-storey facade is inspired than 95 designers for about 10 per cent the success of this format and one by Michael Kor’s signature use of their retail prices. “Designers hated of the most recent newcomers to the of metallics and texture and the idea of Rent the Runway because rental scene is Borrow Mini Couture, a houses a women’s shoe salon, they thought it would cannibalize their company with a story similar to Belly a dedicated men’s accessory retail sales. Whereas, in fact, what we’re Bump Boutique. Several years ago, presentation and two side-by- doing is introducing the next generation founders Heidi and Alex Leiske were side women’s ready-to-wear of women to these designer brands,” taking their 1-year-old son to a wedding shops. It also offers jewellery, explains Jennifer. Retail formats such due to which they purchased a US $ 300 watches and eyewear. as Rent the Runway were well suited formal outfit for him, which he quickly

10 Apparel Online India | MARCH 16-31, 2014 worldwrap

‘Rent the Runway’ rents out clothing and accessories from more than 95 designers

outgrew and never wore again. After the couple was unable to find any businesses that rented out children’s special occasion clothing, they decided One of the to start their own. Being for more than most recent a year in Beta, Borrow Mini Couture newcomers was officially launched in late October to the rental 2013. Though their company is still relatively new, the couple have planned scene is to expand age range and children’s Borrow Mini accessory offerings in the near future. Couture that As of now, these rental businesses rents out have been successful solely by finding ways to engage with the customer, children’s offering added services and making the special experience as stress-free as possible. occasion While brick-and-mortar retailers can entice even the most tight-fisted clothing. shopper with a visually engaging display, compelling impulsive shopping, e-commerce-based rental businesses have to find other ways to keep their customers coming back. To do so, Rent the Runway offers options like live chats with stylists and the ability to order a free back-up size. Belly Bump offers hassle-free exchanges if an item Being for does not fit. With most companies today, more than a social media marketing is also one of the most important strategies for rental year in Beta, businesses to grow their customer Borrow Mini base. Borrow Mini Couture has gained Couture was a lot of attention by reaching out to officially parenting bloggers, who have tried and loved their services, while promoting it launched in on their websites. At present, keeping late October up-to-date with the latest trends in 2013. fashion is both a difficult job and cash-consuming process, but luckily for these fashion rental portals, being fashionable becomes much easier!

MARCH 16-31, 2014 | Apparel Online India 11 sustainability

announces GOTS Version 4.0 Bans Virgin Polyester and Angora The Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) International Working Group recently announced the new Version 4.0 of its globally-recognized standard for textiles made from organic fibres. Though GOTS core provisions of 70 per cent minimum content of certified organic fibres, bans on GMO (genetically modified organism), nanotechnology and carcinogenic substances remain intact but the new version brings about certain modifications to ensure that consumers recognize certified organic and ethical clothing, complying ‘from field to finished product’.

extiles that are certified to the new version of the GOTS will now be allowed to contain up to 30 per cent regenerated or recycled In order to adhere to the synthetic fibres provided they new Version 4.0, are sourced from certified GOTS certified organic production, sustainable companies would be given a period forestry management or from of one year after recognized recycled standards. the announcement “According to current knowledge to comply with the new Version Few provisions through environmental impact to Version 4.0 assessments the previous includes: focus on natural fibres for Meanwhile, new criteria’s of organizations such as  Transaction Certificates the permissible conventional have been adopted for specific Greenpeace, the Clean Clothes are obligatory ‘additional fibre materials’ product groups such as textile Campaign, Fairtrade, the Fair personal care products or Wear Foundation, IFOAM and  Use of conventional (up to max. 30%) is no longer mattresses which include Textile Exchange. cotton, angora wool and justifiable. In the future, textile the standards social criteria virgin polyester is no manufacturers will have a larger For India, the growing awareness based on the International longer possible choice of fibre mixes if they use of GOTS and its ensuing benefits the environmentally improved Labour Organisations (ILO) has rendered it the country with  Virgin polyester may be variants of regenerated and key conventions, including ban the maximum number of GOTS used in accessories (like synthetic fibres. A wider product on child labour. Also, the audit certified facilities. Being the buttons, zippers, etc.) selection of GOTS certified areas that need to be covered by largest producer of organic cotton  Use of carbon and silver products will be made possible the auditors during the on-site in the world, the Indian textile fibres prohibited which will also support the inspections have been further industry has smartly utilized specified in this version and  All printing methods increased use of organic fibres,” GOTS to make India a significant fire prevention training and using aromatic solvents, notes Marcus Bruegel, GOTS global player in the field of phthalates and PVC Technical Director. In this new evacuation drills are added to organic textiles. But this new are prohibited version, the already extensive the existing health and safety revised standard would mean, list of banned substances and training requirements. In order “With more than 1,000 GOTS  Specified data on energy strict residue parameters has to adhere to the new Version certified facilities, India is going and water resources further been extended with one 4.0, GOTS certified companies to get the biggest impact. All the must be available of the significant changes being would be given a period of one companies have to upgrade their the ban of virgin polyester and year after the announcement to products and processes in line angora. The processing will also comply with the new version. with Version 4.0. Besides, list of be more strictly regulated taking This new version was brought recognized organic certifications into consideration the latest about by multi stakeholder for fibre production and list of in residue testing methods. In inputs with expertise in the field recognized accreditation for addition, all substances that of organic production, textile Certifying Body for fibre have are criticized by Greenpeace processing, textile chemistry, been revised. This might affect in their ‘Detox Campaign’ etc. which takes place after some CBs certifying fibres in remain banned in the newly every three years. This year, India,” concludes Sumit Gupta, released standard. however, saw the participation India Representative GOTS.

12 Apparel Online India | MARCH 16-31, 2014 13 Apparel Online India sustainability

H&M Conscious Foundation supports UNICEF, WaterAid and Care Lindex unveils its sustainable he Stockholm-based hygiene education programs collection Tphilanthropic arm of to schools in the developing clothing retailer H&M, H&M world. The goal of WaterAid mongst the leading Conscious Foundation, has is of making safe water Afashion chains in recently announced support and sanitation available Northern Europe, Lindex to three international to everyone, everywhere continues the success organizations – UNICEF, by the year 2030. Also, the of its Holly & Whyte WaterAid and CARE – in areas foundation will award US collection through offering such as education, improving $ 9.3 million to UNICEF in garments made from access to clean water and support of the humanitarian organic cotton. At present, initiatives to strengthen organization’s effort to place Lindex buys almost 9 women’s rights around the early childhood development million garments a year world. To achieve long-lasting on the global agenda and made from sustainable H&M supports UNICEF for early improvements in the above childhood development enable more children to materials, including mentioned areas, the H&M achieve their developmental organic cotton, recycled Conscious Foundation will The grants include US $ 9.3 potential. CARE on the fibres of polyester, support these organizations million to WaterAid and its other hand will receive US polyamide, cotton, wool from February 2014 through a local partners in support of $ 9.3 million in support and Tencel. The fashion total of US $ 27.9 million over a efforts to deliver safe water, of its work to empower retailer aims to increase three year period. functioning sanitation, and women economically. its share of environment- friendly garments, including its latest underwear collection for Gap increases minimum hourly rate men LXM and other basic for employees Pharell Williams garments for both women and G-Star team and children. AP Inc. has recently wage, as Republicans and up for ecological announced that it will Democrats debate a bill that denim line “We have found our G raise the minimum hourly includes a proposed increase customer and she has rate for US employees to US $ in the federal minimum found us! The collection uring the recent 9 in 2014 and US $ 10 in 2015 wage to US $ 10.10 an hour contains ever popular Dpress conference at across its six brands. In line in 2016. Glenn K. Murphy, classical garments such the American Museum with its promise to ‘do more Gap’s chief executive, said as navy blue club blazers, of Natural history, than sell clothes’, the latest in a letter to the company’s striped tricot tops, American singer-cum- initiative by the American employees, “To us, this is feminine 50s style dresses songwriter, rapper, retailer would ultimately not a political issue. Our and chinos. This spring, record producer and benefit about 65,000 of its decision to invest in front- we have focussed on fashion designer Pharell 90,000 store employees. This line employees will directly manufacturing Williams, who is also the move comes in the wake of support our business, and is many of the creative director of eco- many states considering one that we expect to deliver garments in fabrics firm Bionic Yarn, increasing their minimum a return many times over.” sustainable announced collaborating materials” with Dutch denim label said Nina G-Star Raw to launch Starck, Primark joins Greenpeace campaign to a new denim collection Head of eliminate hazardous chemicals ‘RAW for the Oceans’, Design at using recycled plastic. Lindex. The he British retail giant As part of its commitment, Bionic Yarn and G-Star new spring Primark has joined the Primark has agreed to eliminate would be launching collection T growing number of brands, all hazardous chemicals across this eco-friendly denim encompasses committed to the elimination its production processes by line that will consist a mixed of hazardous chemicals from 2020. It will also ensure supply of denim from G-Star colour scale its supply chain as part of chain transparency by requiring incorporating Bionic with various Greenpeace Global Detox manufacturing facilities to Yarn’s eco-thread made wonderfully Campaign. Primark joins upload data on hazardous from recycled plastic modern vibrant Burberry to become the second chemical discharges via a bottles sourced from colours such as largest clothing company to publicly accessible platform. the ocean. The first orange, fuchsia, sign a Detox commitment This will give the public and collection under the neon pink with followed by the release of people living near these collaboration would be classics such as Greenpeace’s report revealing facilities in manufacturing available online and navy blue, cream the presence of hazardous centres like China the right to in G-Star stores from and khaki. chemicals in children’s clothes know what is being discharged August 15, 2014. made by 12 major brands. into their environment.

14 Apparel Online India | MARCH 16-31, 2014 15 Apparel Online India hough admitting that He adds that smart balance of markets currency volatility, cotton and some constantly running core price fluctuations and products also support year around slow global markets business. Unlike many companies, are influencers that Eastman Exports is not only looking Tare critical for planning business, for business from traditional markets, Chandran is not unduly perturbed. but has also invested to develop newer “We cannot predict the market; markets both in the northern and however, we can closely monitor southern hemisphere. “The competition what is happening at the market is getting hotter and it is important to front, the customer’s reaction and spread out business over a wider and stay in touch with them to extend more diverse base, so that a dip in one our flexibilities and support such as market has only a limited impact on quick response, product development, overall business,” reasons Chandran. etc. With respect to currency, we do Further, some core products keep forward contracts to the extent of few lines running consistently. “One a portion of orders once we receive should not think that basic business orders to protect against any sharp is a cakewalk, in fact it is so market- movement in the currency thereafter. sensitive that a difference of even a few With respect to cotton price, since cents is enough for the buyer to take we are vertical we can cover cotton the orders elsewhere,” he adds. No in advance to certain extent,” says wonder the company relies on fashion, Chandran. He further adds that since serving all layers of the market from India is predominantly into cotton low-end fashion to more complicated apparel exports, so insulating against and high-end fashion to keep the bottom

“Eastman Exports “Going into villages and has strategies in setting up a small factory place to combat is workable and we have been quiet successful for global challenges” more than two decades.” N Chandran, Chairman & MD, – n. CHANDRAN Eastman Exports Global Clothing

Eastman Exports Global these factors is more difficult for line healthy. This proactive approach Clothing, a vertically exporters, “yet we can cut down the has supported consistent growth and damages by working closely with the the company is looking to end FY 2013- integrated knit specialist and customers,” he says. 14 with a whooping Rs. 1100 crore for headquartered in Tirupur, has Primarily a fashion manufacturer their garment export division, up from Rs. 931 crore in the previous financial. put in place strong processes with 30 factories in and around the knit city of Tirupur, Eastman Exports Moving manufacturing nearer to the and strategies to combat is constantly using the company’s labour centres in search for operators regular ups and downs of integrated strength to offer new is increasingly becoming critical, working in a global market, developments from the spinning stage, and while exporters admit that for thus engaging the buyer with products the future growth of the industry it is which are a plenty. N Chandran, which he cannot pick-up from regular important to move out of metropolitans, Chairman & Managing Director suppliers. In fact, Chandran feels that few have actually made the effort one of the reasons that despite doing and even fewer have been successful. has seen many highs and primarily spring/summer collections, “Going into villages and setting up a lows in his nearly 3 decades the company has work throughout the small factory is workable and we have of managing the show with year because it has a vertical setup been quiet successful for more than with strong R&D base. “Of course two decades,” says Chandran. Though optimism and clear vision to we need a bigger product basket for it is not an easy process, Chandran’s achieve set targets. Standing which we need different fibres and advice to the industry is to start the on a firm ground, Chandran fabrics, especially synthetics to cater process in advance, taking time to to the winter clothing business, but our identify the right location, as a sudden is confident of the future and product development team is filling the move without prior groundwork may is open to make whatever gaps,” avers Chandran. The company prove disastrous. The winning formula is also looking to invest Rs. 35 crore is to choose a small town which is changes are required to stay in the fabric division to improve surrounded by a cluster of villages, a preferred supplier… its synthetic base. this way there is an infrastructure

16 Apparel Online India | MARCH 16-31, 2014 17 Apparel Online India LEADSTRATEGY

for the factory as also trained labour. Another important factor is to study the employment opportunities in the area to understand how the factory will be received by the villagers. “If there are many options, it may not be so successful, but if there is a pool of young men and women who are not keen to go far for employment, but would be ready to work if it is easily accessible, the choice of location is good,” reasons Chandran. Like many of his peers, Chandran also feels that the industry deserves more attention from the Government, citing the lack of unity within the textile chain as one of the biggest reasons for the current deadlock. “Unfortunately the textile industry is divided into different sectors and every sector looks into their own interest. There is no one platform which truly represents the industry in totality,” he bemoans. The conflicting interest of the different segments in the chain with garments at the end only confuses the Government and it becomes difficult to put forward a policy that is hough optimistic of the acceptable to all. As for the garment “Relooking at opportunities that are coming export fraternity in particular, Chandran India’s way at this point of urges this peers group together to industry with fresh time, Uppal agrees that the represent to the Government the need to perspective is the industry is still far from being have a favourable policy in terms of fibre, outT of the woods. “It has been a difficult trade agreements and flexible labour need of the hour” three years for the industry and finally we laws to compete on a global platform. Virender Uppal, see most of the units running to capacity, “The State and Central Governments can Chairman, Richa Global Exports with many doing overtime. However, this also initiate many supporting measures does not mean that we have miraculously that will compliment the structure of improved as a sourcing destination; it only the industry as the largest employment The spacious and tastefully done-up means we are now more appealing to the buyers, mostly for two reasons – weakened provider, like encouraging women to office ofRicha Global Exports in work by giving some benefits to them currency and reducing attractiveness or to those companies which create Udyog Vihar, Gurgaon, somehow of competing countries like Bangladesh a congenial environment for women reflects the welcoming personality and China, due to their internal issues,” to work peacefully and productively,” reasons Uppal. He frankly admits that as suggests Chandran. of its Chairman, Virender Uppal, who long as the dollar rate remains at around Rs. 60, Indian exporters will remain Though the company has always today also wears the hat of Chairman competitive and the industry will be believed in expansion, and even in the AEPC. Uppal, who has taken over brimming with business. coming financial about Rs. 10 crore the hot seat at a time when things has been set aside for garmenting Sharing his interaction with numerous division, Chandran is cautious, as are looking positive for the industry buyers that he has interacted with over there is not enough trained and skilled with exports of apparel expected the last few months, Uppal is confident labour to support growth. “The biggest to touch US $ 15 billion this year, that buyers are looking at India for bigger challenge in the future business would share in their sourcing. “The stability of be a constant pressure on the prices, is ready to embrace difficult the Indian democracy and the industry’s non-availability of skilled labour and questions with openness, concede grip on the fast moving fashion business the transaction cost especially on the have attracted many buyers, but we are bank interest rate,” says Chandran. shortcomings and take immediate not able to hold on because of lack of However, with the market conditions corrective measures. In an exclusive scales and low productivity,” avers Uppal. favourable, Chandran firmly believes interaction with Team AO, Uppal gets Going forward he feels that it can be that the future looks stable, despite achieved only through trained manpower the challenges. “What could bring a candid on the problems that nag the and technology. At his own company, 7 Sri quantum jump in Indian exports if the industry and also how his company Lankans are responsible for production signing of FTAs with Europe, Canada efficiencies and quality. “Richa Global has has managed to see growth even in and other such markets,” concludes also been upfront in making investments Chandran optimistically. difficult times… in technology and also investing in people

18 Apparel Online India | MARCH 16-31, 2014 19 Apparel Online India LEADSTRATEGY

Accepting that the industry is on slippery ground and to assume that the crises is over, would be immature. Uppal urges the industry to take a long view and rethink strategy for individual companies, so that the industry at large can benefit, while contributing more to strengthen the AEPC.

who have the expertise to ensure that workers to control their earnings and was prevalent during the quota technology is used optimally and also finances through a welfare project in regime, making it an unnecessary time systems are in place, which enhance collaboration with one of their buyers. consuming and frustrating experience productivity that is why we have seen According to Uppal, one of the when applying for drawback. “How continuous growth, despite market biggest reasons due to which the does it matter if I have added a button conditions,” says Uppal. Indian apparel industry suffers to a T-shirt or made a V-neck instead of Also important, according to him, set-backs very easily, is because a U-neck, the idea is to compensate for is moving out of our comfort zones the industry doesn’t have anything duties paid, but still the classifications to newer production bases. “It to present to the buyer for fall and are multi-layered requiring lot of paper is not easy and many will resist winter and even regular customers work and many times confusion on but eventually it is the only viable are forced to get those collections where the product should be placed,” solution,” he argues. He urges the from other manufacturing centres. adds Uppal. All we are asking for is industry to take advantage of fresh And it is no secret that the biggest a simple single window for clearance crop of trained workers coming up reason for this is that the textile which is easy to negotiate. near ATDC centres, to establish base industry in the country, primarily Crushing the perception that AEPC is in remote areas. “Recently, ATDC being cotton based, has little fabric serving the interest of a few exporters, opened a training centre at Hindpur, to offer which is suitable for winter Uppal strongly feels that it is only on the border of Andhra Pradesh collections. That is one of the reasons a few who take interest and that is and already Texport has setup a that he is taking the demand of his why the same faces reappear again unit for manufacturing, this is the predecessor at AEPC for 5% script and again. “My company is going type of determination that we need,” for imported fabric forward with the through a restructuring where the says Uppal. He, however, admits that same enthusiasm. family has amicably decided to divide though Richa Global has 10 factories Even importing fabric to meet any the business with effect from October spread out in diverse locations in such demand is a herculean task and 2013 and a lot of my time and effort is the complexity going into getting the new structure of the procedure in place, yet I took up the challenge has been a as no one else was coming forward to “Richa Global has deterrent to even take responsibility. Whatever we fight been upfront in making attempting to with the Government for, be it duty drawback, market access scheme, investments in technology import primarily synthetic fabric wage rates or service tax issues, is and also investing in which is the base in the interest of the industry and people for growth.” for many winter the benefit also goes to everyone; so – Virender Uppal collections. how can I serve my own purpose?” “Even for a he questions. company like Accepting that the industry is on mine which has a slippery ground and to assume that Delhi, Gurgaon, Manesar, Noida and strong logistics department, we avoid the crises is over would be immature, Bangalore, no real effort has yet importing fabric and only import those Uppal urges the industry to take a been made to move into the interiors, which are nominated to suppliers in long view and rethink strategy for though it is something that is on his Taiwan and China. Years back when individual companies, so that the priority list. we started the Ann Taylor business, we industry at large can benefit, while collaborated with Vardhman and Nahar In the meanwhile, over the next contributing more to strengthen the to develop a fabric that the brand was one year there are plans to invest AEPC. “The industry needs to come sourcing from China and once we could around Rs. 25 crore for expansion forward and use the AEPC more show them quality we stopped sourcing to strengthen the current capacities gainfully, instead of criticizing the the same,” recalls Uppal. in existing categories, as the same association, people need to come has continued to show growth. The In fact, the cumbersome procedures forward in support, so that the garment export division, which associated with the trade including Government which at open forums registered a turnover of Rs. 285 custom clearance are on the priority admits that the industry is critical to crore in FY 2012-13, is expected to list for Uppal, now that he is steering the economy is compelled to make touch Rs. 360 crore by the end of FY the AEPC for the next two years. “I critical changes in its policy to give 2013-14. Ready to take initiatives to truly feel that if import and export the industry a ‘special status’ befitting contribute to society, Richa Global is procedures are simplified every its national importance,” concludes undertaking education and training exporter can easily add another Uppal, who feels that a change modules in their factories in Gurgaon 3-5% to its turnover,” says Uppal. is coming in and the Government and Bangalore to empower women He bemoans the fact that product corridors are now more receptive to classification is still based on what the industry needs.

20 Apparel Online India | MARCH 16-31, 2014 21 Apparel Online India marketsearch

Indian Body Wears Market Coming of Age… New Players, Expansion and Enhancing Product Basket

Body wears or more t is boom time for the intimate are also planning to incorporate lycra commonly called Intimate wear market and though some fabrics without blends in our product wears in India has seen a problems still persist in providing category, to fit the requirements quality products and comfort of the customers,” says, Bhavin huge turnaround in the last toI the wearer, it is not hampering Gala, Partner, Libra Products from few years and today it is the growth of this versatile and Bombay, who insists that Modal is the one of the fastest growing increasingly fashion-driven market. future of intimate wear fabrics owing markets; rising customer This is largely due to the fact that the to its resistance to shrinkage and industry has witnessed a changing 50% more water absorbency with awareness and maturity scenario for the good, evolving from the respect to cotton. level of the companies time of low awareness and knowledge Corroborating with the statement, makes it an attractive of undergarments in women to today Ravi Verma, Partner, Care in when a lot of enquiries regarding Lifestyle also stated that Modal, in different fabrics, sizes and patterns are 2014, is going to be India’s popular being floated to the manufacturers. pick for intimate wear. The company believes in providing environment- Innerwear, an friendly and skin-friendly fabrics to amalgam of comfort, its customers and keeps on innovating fitting and style... to reciprocate to their requirements. Sidelining the conventional 100% Amid growing awareness and cotton fabrics earlier being used requirement of a product which can in innerwear, now cotton is being provide comfort and fitting without blended with stretch fibres like lycra compromising on the style and to provide stretchability and comfort pattern, companies are putting all in the product. “We basically deal with their efforts to launch new product lingerie sets, regular bras, T-shirt lines with involving variety of R&D bras, padded bras and double-padded to impart newness into the industry. bras and for these we use fabrics like Libra Products have started to develop stretchable cotton lycra, high quality D cups and C cups specifically in supplex lycra, power knits for superior 50-52 sizes. Prateek Gupta, Director, support and comfort in summers. We Sona shared how the company is business, prompting many new players to enter the market. Be it the changing scenario of nightwear and transaction concept of nightwear to loungewear, use of seamless and organic, companies are coming up with more product categories which ultimately increase their market reach. Team AO talks to a few players about the product lines, importance of comfort and their future initiatives in this booming market… Dinesh Sodha (left) and Bhavesh Bhanushali, Prateek Kamra (Left) and Akshit Kamra, Directors, Valentine Kamra Lingeries

22 Apparel Online India | MARCH 16-31, 2014 23 Apparel Online India marketsearch

Amit Singh (left), Managing Partner, AP Enterprises with his brother Pradeep Singh Piyush Mishra, GM Marketing (left), with Rajiv Sharma, National Sales Manager, Pure Ultratech Fashion

experimenting with different out with an organic line of bras ‘Bold Desire’ as it’s already patterns and cuts in bras and and panties soon along with doing well in bra segment. “Along panties to suit the new age getting into the premium range with growth and new products, Amid growing customer. They are in process of undergarments in kidswear. we can easily feel the growing of launching a new bra called It is also planning to launch a expectation of Indian customers, awareness and Coolbra, which will be made fashion category in lingerie, with and very soon same products requirement of a keeping in mind, breathability laces and other novelty fabrics of bamboo and organic fabrics product which can and movement. Another company and varieties. will be in good demand in the provide comfort is intimate wear, Vijay Kumar With the manufacturing domestic market. Developments and fitting without Jai Chand Lal Jain uses SFD capacity of 30,000 dozen of bras, are aimed to keep pace with dyes aka skin-friendly dyes, international brands and their compromising panties, camisoles per month developed in-house which one and half year old company trends, like seamless is big in on the style prevents the user from getting, Care in Lifestyle, Sahibabad India nowadays,” says Amit and pattern, rashes, itching problems and (Uttar Pradesh) is upgrading Singh, Managing Partner, AP companies are other comfort issues. its stitching processes and Enterprises. launching bigger cup sizes for putting all their New players & growth Bottlenecks still exist… efforts to launch plus size women along with It is interesting to note that the gents underwear range. Elite Despite many developments in new product lines vibrant Indian market is now String Apparels, Delhi (Brand the industry, some bottlenecks with involving attracting fresh investments. La Intimo) has just entered into to deliver a quality product still variety of R&D to One such venture is of the Italian the market and is offering only persist like quality, fit and timely impart newness brand PRESTITIA, which was various kinds of men’s intimate availability of raw material. wear, available only online with into the industry. launched in India almost a year Prateek Kamra of Kamra ago with its complete range being plans for retail expansion. Lingeries, Delhi acknowledges, imported from Sri Lanka. But “We are observing a good growth Sidelining the after witnessing strong growth, Established players even in rural areas where the it has since not only started its launching new customer is now ensuring the conventional 100% products cotton fabrics factory in Noida, manufacturing longevity of the product, but there 30,000 pieces per year, but is Having vast range of bridalwear, are very few suppliers of fabrics being used in already looking to double its homewear, loungewear and and accessories who are reliable, innerwear, now capacities very soon. “At the sportswear, Ashapura Intimates so every time one has to ensure cotton is being time of launching we were not Fashion (Valentine), Mumbai all the aspect of quality of raw blended with too sure about the Indian market is doing business of almost material.” Whereas comfort of but now we are continuously Rs. 150 crore per year and the the wearer is concerned, use of stretch fibres like, moving forward with 25 products company is now focusing in a quality fabric is the top priority, lycra, spandex categories in our product basket big way on panties which was claim all the manufacturers but to provide and after South India, now North started a couple of years back. still there is no study or scientific stretchablity and India is our focus,” says Piyush “We are the only listed company measurement for sizing and it is comfort in the Mishra, GM Marketing of Pure of our product segment, which still being handled by experienced Ultratech Fashion, handling goes to show our credibility,” masters, and in hindsight that is product. PRESTITIA in India. Strawberry says Dinesh Sodha, Director, one of the biggest reasons that Lenceria, Bangalore is another Ashapura Intimates Fashion. India is not seen as a intimate six-month old brand, offering AP Enterprises (Tipsy), Delhi wear manufacturing destination bras, panties and camisole for another two-decade old company by international brands, despite a kids, which is planning to come has just introduced its nightwear thriving domestic market.

24 Apparel Online India | MARCH 16-31, 2014 25 Apparel Online India tex-file

Is it no more alluring to be a Nominated Supplier? Sustainability becoming “key” aspect in Nominations

ndeniably business is there scope of business, as you otherwise In a bid to have for all, be it big, medium compete with lesser companies for an or small players, but the order. However, in a stringent market, control over product mills which have huge the pressures to be competitive in productionU capacities need to have development, quality prices are high; if one is not being voluminous buyers who can absorb and timely delivery of accommodative, it is not taken well by their capacities and pay them price the chains,” adds Jain. to meet their overheads along with inputs including fabric Delhi based Mercury Fabrics, making marginal or even good profits producers of high-end knitted fabrics, and accessories, major by offering customized services like is doing both nominated business product development and exclusivity. international brands as well as selling through agents. To balance the production, many and retailers like However, Babbu Sachdeva, Managing companies go parallel with nominated Director of the company, feels that Walmart, JCPenney, business and selling fabrics in the open nominated business is better as they market. “Buyers with good volumes Abercrombie & Fitch, get chance to develop products which will always prefer to nominate fabric is the company’s strength. “The first Gap, M&S, H&M to suppliers, as they want consistency international buyer to nominate us of quality and delivery commitments. mention a few had was JCPenney. They came to see our taken to what is plant at Bawal (near Delhi) and their sourcing head was very impressed commonly called the with our well equipped unit with water nominated business. treatment plant and also quality of the fabric, but he was a little apprehensive But with the changing about whether we could deliver the retail scenario where volumes which they were looking at. I assured him that we could meet the smaller quantities turnaround cycle of JCPenney very and more fashion is comfortably and we proved our words. They approved five qualities to begin becoming the norm, with, placing good volumes with the Apparel Online discovers factory and today they are one of our major clients,” says Sachdeva. that the relevance Many products at Mercury Fabrics are being developed for JCPenney for which it is nominated Amongst the biggest advantages and importance of of being a nominated supplier is nominations have Also a nominated supplier will the cushion of regular orders. Most go out of his way to develop new international/domestic brands do somewhat diminished. products to ensure freshness in the not change suppliers until something Team AO spoke range,” reasons Sudeep Galundia, drastic goes wrong which ensures Managing Director, Galundia the supplier to keep getting orders at to several buying Textiles, Bhilwara. regular intervals. The other benefit offices and fabric Corroborating to Sudeep’s views, of being a nominated supplier is that manufacturers to take Sanjay K Jain, Managing Director, as a company one gets elevated in TT Ltd., Kolkata says, “Buyers who terms of the latest designs/shades as their opinion if being a look for specific fabrics or are very majority of the brands do a detailed nominated supplier is quality-conscious, besides being study of the market. “For each season particular about timely delivery, go for the buyers work well in advance so as an asset or a limitation, nomination.” Jain admits that being to know what the customer is going to and we received a nominated supplier is an added like; the findings of this research are advantage, though for his nature of forwarded to all nominated suppliers mixed reactions... business which is mostly greige knitted to ensure sampling in line with the fabric and yarns, nomination is not so future requirement. Also at the end of relevant. “It definitely increases the the day, the market will go after what

26 Apparel Online India | MARCH 16-31, 2014 tex-file

Karl-Johan Persson, Sanjay K Jain, Babbu Sachdeva, Sudeep Galundia, Chief Executive Officer, H&M Managing Director, TT Ltd. Managing Director, Mercury Fabrics Managing Director, Galundia Textiles

the leading brands are doing, take small quantities, Delhi- “Day by day requirement of claim that they do not keep as the customers get influenced based ‘I Fashions’ cannot afford American buyers are becoming direct relationship with fabric by the range of these important to work with big mills. “Though stringent as far as the fabric suppliers, their code of conducts brands, forcing the market to our fabric procurement is based quality is concerned. Buyers like for these suppliers is so follow suit,” points out Galundia, on the specifications given by Abercrombie & Fitch use the stringent that unless and until who feels the only limitation is the buyers, they never dictate terminology “Green Piece” which the fabric suppliers meet those one’s dependency on a particular us from where to procure the means that the mill from where parameters, they cannot supply buyer for business. fabrics. As we generally work the fabric is procured should their fabrics to the brands. The medium level buyers that are on sheer fabrics and knits, we have zero-discharge facilities. H&M is one brand that has working through buying houses normally procure fabrics from They just nominate those kept its focus on supporting give flexibility to their agents Surat and Delhi-NCR region. factories which comply with their fabric mills in becoming to choose suppliers; they just Very rarely do we go for imported stringent parameters. Whatever more sustainable through give their fabric specifications fabric,” avers Yogesh Bhagat, fabric we procure from China voluntary programmes. “Our and FOB rates. Impulse India, Director, I Fashions. for A&F, comes from factories Mill Development Programme, which is majorly catering to the that have CIQ (China Inspection which was started in 2008, European buyers, procures 85- Sustainability Quarantine) clearance. PH targets fabric suppliers in 90% of its fabric from India out of becoming major test is now mandatory for the China and Bangladesh, the which 65% is from the powerloom criterion for nominated suppliers of A&F.” two key production centres sector like cotton from Bhiwandi, nominating a vendor Asmara India procures 80% of for us and we have the closest polyesters from Surat and yarn- Going beyond the regular its fabric requirement from India indirect business relationship dyes from Salem. Ashish Yadav, factors for nominating suppliers and that too from vertical setups with the suppliers in these two Fabric Technologist, Impulse such as volumes, consistency to get good and consistent quality countries,” states Karl-Johan (India) shares, “We do not work of quality and delivery, along along with better price and lead Persson, CEO, H&M, the on nominations as the buyers we with capability of developing times. The remaining 20% fabrics grandson of H&M’s founder, are working with are very strict new products, sustainability like polyester, laces, etc. is being according to whom in 2012, on price points; they want good has become a key factor in the imported from China. 70 mills in China, 11 mills fabric quality in best price.” nomination process. Vivek Although majority of the in Bangladesh and 9 mills Dealing with high-end ladies Yadav, Divisional Head, major brands and retailers in Pakistan have undergone fashion buyers of Europe who Fabric, Asmara India shares, who nominate their suppliers the programme.

MARCH 16-31, 2014 | Apparel Online India 27 tex-file

Integrated Processing Development Maharashtra Tex Find Scheme (IPDS) launched gets 1,331 new he Government has scheme will provide Government textile projects Tapproved the launching of support for establishing a new Integrated Processing common infrastructure aharashtra Development Scheme (IPDS) to to catalyse private sector MGovernment has establish four to six Brown Field investments in the major received proposals for projects and three to five Green processing clusters. The 1,331 projects under the Field projects with a total cost scheme parameters envisage new textile policy with of Rs. 500 crore to address the Government support limited investment to the tune of environmental issues faced by to 50% of the project cost with Rs. 12,000 crore, according the textile processing units. The ceiling limit of Rs.75 crore. to Textile Minister Mohammed Arif Naseem Khan. There are ten Light-activated NTC opens Brand India and Indian textile parks in the state smart curtains Republic stores and Rs. 51 crore capital developed by US subsidies has been given University he National Textile for them, while Rs. 16 crore TCorporation Ltd. (NTC) has interest subsidy has been Led by Associate opened its Brand India Store disbursed to 50 projects Professor Ali Javey of the and Indian Republic Store in in the state. “With the Department of Electrical Delhi. Brand India Stores would delinking of Technology Engineering and Computer primarily serve to fulfil all the Upgradation Fund Scheme Sciences at the University retail needs of the consumers (TUFS) from the policy, of California, Berkeley in for home and lifestyle products we expect to meet the the United States, battery- ranging from home furnishings target of Rs. 40,000 crore to home furniture to ethnic less smart curtains have K. Chiranjeevi, Union Minister of State for Tourism investments, sooner than been developed recently garments to lifestyle home (Independent Charge), at the Indian Republic retail opening the five year time frame. within the gamut of smart products. The Brand India The State Government is and intelligent textiles. stores will have apparels, be sourced from various clusters satisfied that despite global The smart curtains accessories, home decor and in India thus promoting local economic meltdown, in were made by layering furnishings, etc. Designer weavers through its handloom just one-and-a-half years carbon nanotubes on Raghavendra Rathore, helped procurement initiative – Setu, of announcing the new polycarbonate membranes NTC to choose India’s best which will ensure that NTC textile policy, investment of which get activated designers in various categories procures handloom products Rs. 12,000 crore has come,” in the presence of to design exclusively for NTC’s directly from the weavers and said the Minister. light. According to the Brand India. The products will eliminate the middlemen. researchers, the nanotubes absorb the sunlight instantaneously then India invites Chinese investment in textile sector and convert the reserved energy into heat. The heat ndian Ambassador to China, gets transferred to the IAshok K Kantha has invited polycarbonate membrane Chinese textile companies to which results in the invest in India, as the country expansion of the plastic offers several advantages. curtain. The researchers Speaking at a seminar in Ambassador Ashok claim that such light Shanghai on ‘Investing in India’s K. Kantha welcoming activated plastic curtains Textile Sector’, organized by Vice President are easy to make and can of the People’s the Embassy of India and the be activated using low Republic of China Consulate General of India in intensity light as well. H.E. Li Yuanchao Shanghai, in association with on the occasion of It is said that the multi- the China National Textiles 65th Republic Day disciplinary approaches and Apparel Council (CNTAC) celebration involving different and the Cotton Textiles Export disciplines, such as Promotion Council of India than US $ 8 billion in 2013. and potential investors from polymer science, electrical (TEXPROCIL), Ambassador He referred to the potential in and around Shanghai, engineering, material Kantha highlighted the potential catalytic role of textile sector Jiangsu and Zhejiang. The science and chemistry, to for expanding and diversifying in revitalizing bilateral trade to seminar, which coincided with name a few are needed textile cooperation between address the overall problem of the participation of 60 Indian to develop functional and the two countries based on the India-China trade imbalance. The companies in the Inter textile technical textiles like this. sound foundation of bilateral event was attended by several Exhibition in Shanghai, was textile trade turnover of more Chinese textile manufacturers followed by a buyer-seller meet.

28 Apparel Online India | MARCH 16-31, 2014 29 Apparel Online India 30 Apparel Online India | MARCH 16-31, 2014 MARCH 16-31, 2014 | Apparel Online India 31 HOME FASHION FUTURE

Amongst the most successful consumer goods fair for Ambiente 2014 more than a decade, Ambiente, Frankfurt 2014 covered three core areas – dining, living and giving, witnessing a Various countries 3.5 per cent increase in the number of visitors this year. and cultures on exhibit Sharmila Sharan, Consultant with Artifacts India, one of From woollen punja durry to azrakh hand block the largest exporters of embellished paper products from printing – India displays tradition India, shares exclusive insights on the latest trends in home decor visible at the exhibition with Apparel Online...

y wish list at the start What was visible during the fair were of every year has ‘one embellishments, aari embroidery, new place to visit’, this digital and screen prints, furs, velvet, year was no different, 3D surface manipulations, pompom and this came true edgings, pleating, smocking/gathering Mwhen in February I was asked to with appliqué work, animal and floral accompany the big bosses of ‘Artifacts prints, woven and printed checks India’ to Ambiente. No doubt, it was on a variety of cushions, as also an opportunity I could not let pass, as patchwork durries bearing checks, Ambiente is one of the most important twills, plains, herringbone and similar global exhibitions, which has turned manipulations in worsted wool were out to be a successful sourcing platform seen at the exhibits. While seer sucker outside China. As a first timer, for me and honeycomb fabric was seen in the sheer scale of things, systems, terry towels, on the other hand quilted amenities, operational precisions of the and knitted fleece adorned this year’s organizers were hard to miss. This was Ambiente. In terms of colours, copper further boosted by the positive economic was given a notch above silver and gold. mood in Germany and neighbouring Manager of an important exhibitor went countries, probably because the on record saying “copper is warmer supply was larger than demand after than silver and not as old-fashioned the downturn and could be one of the as gold.” reasons for a better scenario. According to official reports, more Along with the 4,714 exhibitors from 81 than half of the buyers attending countries, Ambiente included several Ambiente were from countries other notable addendums designed to create than Germany and that substantial excitement and conversation. In Hall 4.1, percentage presented a lot of Super Ennichi stopped walk by traffic international traffic on the lookout for a presentation created by designer for products and designs to take to Yukio Hashimoto to commemorate consumers. A total of 443 Indian Japan’s status as the 2014 Ambiente companies participated this year out of partner country, while Hashimoto’s which 159 were from Moradabad region multicoloured framework was an ideal alone. The product range displayed showcase for the Japanese exhibitor by Indian exhibitors included wooden products and crafts on display. Aware artwares, handicrafts, pashmina of the latest trends in market, the shawls, azrakh hand block printing, buyers were looking for new designs artistic weaving, woollen punja durry, preferring looks created with lesser etc. Germany being an important expensive embellishments. The market for Indian products, Ambiente company which I was representing, provided an important marketing Artifacts created a range of recyclable, medium to various Indian companies. recycled, eco-friendly, cotton based, India exports handicrafts to the EU on embellished yet not expensive products, an average of US $ 1312 million per

a trend which was seen in many other Varieties of durries and cushions were on annum, out of which Germany alone exhibitors’ collections. display at Ambiente accounts for US $ 258 million.

32 Apparel Online India | MARCH 16-31, 2014 The fair also featured various design exhibits, awards and lectures including the prestigious German Design Awards showcasing the emerging design talents. In addition to the German exhibitors, the clean lines and organic textures of the Netherlands, Denmark, Sweden and Finland also seemed to be well-represented. The fair saw first-time exhibitors from the Czech Republic (Grund), The four key trends a great fair-trade outfit from at Ambiente 2014 Lebanon (Morus), beautiful home décor and furniture at  Stunning Temper: The cheerful Fink and Eichholtz, creative colour palette for ‘stunning digital print bedding at Snurk, temper’ encompasses reseda beautiful lighting at Zenza, green, mandarin orange, linden Kori-show’s great showcase of green, red and raspberry Japanese goods, Brut Cake’s colours, petrol, light grey and fun upholstery pieces, and the apricot. Knitting meets plastic, fresh ‘tranquillity and light houndstooth meets dots, powerful remedies for the home’ at patterns meet relief, while Denmark’s House Do. blooms and blossom, together with expressive arrangements With more than 2,000 of plants, round off the unusual exhibitors in just the home stylistic trend. furnishings, textiles and indoor/outdoor furniture  Subtle Spirit: Jade, mauve and categories, Ambiente did not matt gold accentuate the delicate disappoint! So, for a start up interplay of colours between business if this is the segment midnight-blue, pine-green and of operation – Dining, Giving, aubergine. To go with this, there Living – Ambiente – a massive are folds and reliefs, copper and cauldron of design ideas and bast surface effects, shimmering product sourcing platform, is golden leather and delicate a must visit fair. If one has a textiles such as silk and fine, unique, honest, sustainable loosely woven fabrics. product line that fits in the  Serene Nature: The pastel colour 3 themes of Ambiente – then ways ensure a lightness of touch it is an interactive and an and range from taupe, violet, expansive platform unlike any. peach and skin tones to grey, With the announcement of the sand, white and black. Purist United States as the Partner shapes for accessories display a Country in 2015, ‘Made in wide variety of wooden surfaces America’ would be given an and delicately coloured leathers. opportunity to shine on the  Striking Mind: Strong colours international stage. It will be and stark lines characterize fascinating to watch as US ‘striking mind’. Set against black, representatives put together white, slate and tobacco, chrome, an exhibit area to represent blue and intense yellows create the culture of America and powerful accents. The interplay even more intriguing to watch of light and dark emphasizes the response of the Ambiente the graphic qualities of three- audience to the all-things- dimensional objects. American display next year!

MARCH 16-31, 2014 | Apparel Online India 33 34 Apparel Online India | MARCH 16-31, 2014 Runway Report Fall 2014-15 New York & Fashion weeks at New York and London are recognized primarily for their chic yet understated statement, relying heavily on silhouettes appropriate for the ready-to-wear segment. Designers in New York aimed at tapping the workwear category focusing on relaxed London silhouettes and menswear fabrics as the long coats, wide-legged pants and unisex blazers would have us believe. London, on the other hand, revelled in glamour for appeal, even though it was coloured in a rather unassuming demeanour. So while there were separates which aligned with ones shown at New York, equally intriguing were lace, peek-a-boo gowns, flirty ruffled dresses, sequin splashed garments and more importantly, the hybrid skirts and dresses, which have a vast scope as standalone separates.

Coat Along

Antonio Helmut J. Jason Berardi Lang Mendel Wu

all has been struck by a wave of long lengths, the rendition of which, in winter coats, Fhas emerged as one of the stronger silhouette categories. Conceived as a solid separate and not a flinging outerwear, designers seek inspiration from varied design elements – double-breasted and wrap coats making a strong case in point. While most versions skipped defining a waist, opting to work with a dropped waist on coat dresses as a clear ode to power dressing, other styles, where the waist was rather defined with thick waist belts, hit the notes on sublime femininity. Masculine lapels and crisp collars flanked by chunky pockets and metallic closures suit the androgynous side of the trend. Peter Pilotto

MARCH 16-31, 2014 | Apparel Online India 35 Sweater Column

Helmut Felder Calvin Klein Joseph Lang Felder Collection

weater dress has all the qualities of a stellar, ready-to-wear separate. Uncomplicated Sconstruction aside, what makes this trend even more viable is its direct association with the much-accepted phenomenon of relaxed contours. As most versions have kept the silhouette devoid of any fit, the silhouette mostly knocks on knits and chunky woollens for its slack structure. Finished at a length, generously below the knee, the athletic interpretations of the dress include familiar elements, whether for cozy turtlenecks or exceedingly long sleeves. Designers who viewed Band of the trend in light of dainty eveningwear gave in to asymmetric and strappy necklines, additional Outsiders feminine respite coming from either combinations of sheer and mohair or polka prints.

Skirt in Disguise

Belstaff Fashion Reed Daks East Krakoff

ybrid has been the mood of the season and as its application leaves no silhouette, it is Hmost definite that the idea of fusion is one to be carried forth a season or two. Fall will see the advent of the deconstructed skirt, which takes elements from not only lowers but, in an experimental streak borrows elements from formal outerwear. The wrap slit skirt of spring has been structured like languid culottes and draped trousers in some cases and in some, as a trail on roomy shorts. More innovative versions of the wrap skirt, where bondage closures circle the wrap Sass & along with a tied version, which bears resemblance with lower half of an overcoat, offer multiple Bide possibilities of the trend.

36 Apparel Online India | MARCH 16-31, 2014 Dainty Details

Jonathan Jason Topshop Erdem Saunders Wu Unique

ransparency didn’t end with spring; it has simply been revamped for winter. Affixing sequin Tto sheer separates, imparts a refreshing look to both the trends, as does embroidery – in coloured and metallic versions. Another element that has been used is satin or velvet fabric, on georgettes, chiffons or lace surfaces. While some designers worked the trend onto tunic dresses splashed in multicolored sequin in architectural patterns, others merged satin patches cut in red, pink and shimmer onto a floral patterned black lace ensemble. Sequin and droplet beads served House of as the perfect value addition in case of a sultry black sheer dress covered in a harlequin pattern. Holland Reinterpretation of sassy work wear was seen on sheer tops which were sparingly laid with delicate velvet.

Lace Sinuous

Vera Michael van Marchesa Erdem Wang der Ham

issociating itself from feminine patterns and delicate usage on sheer separates is the Dreinvented lace. Instead of conventional floral designs, designers played around with obscure patterns in architectural shapes to attribute garments with a mystical vibe. While some relied on intricacy using an abstract webbed pattern on a nylon dress and a deconstructed cropped top, respectively, others decided to mix satin with lace on a cut-out dress. One or two went all out as they presented a range of bodycon long gowns with all-over lace in black and Christopher Kane midnight blue. The repetitive patterns have been clearly replaced with exciting designs merged in a single garment and they work the best when the ensembles are form fitting.

MARCH 16-31, 2014 | Apparel Online India 37 fashionbusiness

stake as a ready-to-wear silhouette. With a length that were considerably longer than a teensy bralet and a fit that was less restrictive than that of a ‘Bralets’ corset, spring reincarnated the bralet as a contoured version of a crop top. IN Fall’14 Following these strategic renditions Collections reveal a missed of the product, fall of 2014 too has opportunity for Indian exporters welcomed the bralet, as collections of various designers would have the On the surface ‘bralets’ are most likely to be larger audience believe. The iconic perceived as a minuscule ready-to-wear product vintage style bras with its contoured owing to their size and structure, but its presence bust line and décolletage necklines on the runway, street and even on e-commerce remain but with it come the hybrid websites is anything but minuscule. Having versions which uplift the wearability sustained for one season too many ‘bralets’ of the bold separate. Resultantly, the appearance in mainstream fashion is not only bralet is now remodelled to be spread an indication of designers’ increasing affinity across a wider spectrum of sensibilities. for the product but also its wide acceptance Francesco Scognamiglio continued amongst consumers who are warming up to the with the athletic bra for winter, as he idea of bare midriffs in fashion. Closer home, rounded them off with elastic hems the recurrence of bralets is one opportunity for for a taut fit and in yet another sporty Indian exporters that shouldn’t be overlooked, interpretation, David Koma laid a bib especially when the product has made an style neckline on a minimal bralet. appearance in fall collections of 2014, with a These styles tend to gravitate toward a similar aplomb as spring, if not more. more androgynous style of dressing and hence are kept intrinsically simple. Other designers looked beyond the ast spring season, as the viral sporty influences choosing to era of fifties left a trail of work around sensibilities which are inspiration for designers more feminine than androgynous. A across the world, collections fairly interesting variation, which is boasted of flounce, midi essentially viable for an exporter dealing Llengths and high waist shorts amongst in women’s tops, is the sheer bralet other vintage-inspired ensembles. top. Whether for Jacquemus’ sheer full Now, as innovators move forward to sleeved top, stitched with a bralet to bask in the sass of seventies and the conceal the bust or Véronique Leroy’s perk of nineties – apparent in the fall tribal printed bustier patched on sheer collections of 2014-15 – pin up bralets in a similar style, the trend succeeds seem to have survived this transition of in incorporating feasible elements. Not eras. Season after season as designers only sheer, but a style like this works present versions of the bralets in their exceptionally well with chiffons and collections, the product has not once georgettes, as long as the fabric of declined into oblivion after its debut bustier is kept stiff in comparison. in spring’13. Silhouette aside, designers are A major contributor to the continuing noticeably stretching their imagination popularity of the bralet is its uncanny in terms of the fabric choices for these resemblance to the sports bra. What perky bralets. Of course, leather tends originated as a dainty feminine bra top to be an obvious choice for designers has been cleverly fashioned on the lines who are diving in the choicest of David Koma Francesco Scognamiglio of an offspring of the sportswear mania. patent and glossy leather for making Emilio Pucci’s spring collection, which a somewhat bold statement with the focused on reinventing the product, separate but that is restricted to the presented it akin a gym bustier flanked traditional bralets. Versions, which by strappy details which unbolted have generously lessened the fit on the many possibilities of conceiving the bralet injecting it with a dose of a bralet. Not only Pucci, but a slew of relaxations, have pleasantly embraced designers reinterpreted the bralet, fabrics which are winter appropriate. tapping on popular trends for appeal – From JW Anderson’s fleece bra top whether for Prada’s ground breaking which hung loose on the body to Felder jewel-encrusted bralets worn over Felder’s rich jacquard bralet with jersey dresses or Jonathan Simkhai’s low necklines to Paco Robane’s wide- corseted top constructed to raise its strapped, neoprene corset that finished

38 Apparel Online India | MARCH 16-31, 2014 fashionbusiness

Jacquemus Véronique Leroy Felder Felder

at the waist, the trend has Apparels, which is working for consumed unconventional fabric US importers that supply to choices. Jacquards, in particular, retailers like Macys, A&F and have a way with the trend as not Urban Outfitter. Elaborating on only woven but knit jacquards developments for the coming have been included for figure- season, Anshu Saxena, flattering fit, especially in the Director, Moissanite Apparels, case of fitted bralets. lets us in on their collection of bralets which have majorly been Despite designers’ continual constructed in printed, polyester innovation on the silhouette, fabrics. Anshu validates the the product hasn’t yet found sporty influences as zip closures a strong foothold for Indian have been incorporated in these exporters. A recently included styles but simultaneously, they garment fair catering to the are also working with feminine fall of 2014, didn’t confirm a laces and peasant-inspired, strong presence of the product wide necklines. “We are using and even the most fashionably prints with solid lining or as sound collections chose to give trim fabric,” informs Anshu. the product a complete miss. Alternating amid romantic floral An occasional sighting of the and vibrant tribal patterns, bralet in ethnic jacquards and the prints have been kept denims sufficed for a trend that particularly cheery that are most managed to continue for four likely to come in handy for their straight seasons. As Ayushi spring’15 developments. Nath, Designer, Impulse points Needless to say, that the Indian out, “According to our trend exporter is somewhat stuck research, the product definitely between predictable buyers and tops the chart for the current and monotonous product categories, coming season but our buyers as established in our previous haven’t really enquired us for the stories on fall collections. In a product. Since we majorly work scenario like above, a simple with buyer centric orders, we product like a bralet has all haven’t developed bralets for the requisites of not only a fresh season either.” product category but a strong Among the few companies tool that can convince foreign that have developed ‘bralets’ buyers to explore products for the season is Moissanite beyond tunics and tops in India.

MARCH 16-31, 2014 | Apparel Online India 39 fashionresource

House of Fraser partners L Brands Inc. to expand in with ‘The Great Retail Revival’ Middle East and UK ouse of Fraser, a chain of department Brand Inc., the parent company Hstores, is partnering with a non-profit Lof Victoria’s Secret, is planning to foundation, The Great Retail Revival, to expand its number of stores in UK and the offer upcoming retail brands the chance Middle East. Among to trade within its flagship Oxford Street the other five locations store in the new ‘POP at HOF’ pop-up. The in the fashion capital, 10 retailers will be shortlisted by people’s Victoria Secret votes who will get a chance to showcase is now eyeing an their design at the House of Fraser opportunity for a flagship on April 2, with the ‘POP at HOF’ flagship expansion opening on May 8th for two weeks. near its store that was launched on Bond Street in 2012. There Rahul Mishra winner of the are currently four stores in the Middle International Woolmark Prize East operated through a partnership and the firm also plans to open 8-10 stores ndian designer, Rahul Mishra has been this year in that region. Inamed the winner of the International Woolmark Prize, which was announced recently in Milan. The judging panel included Alexa Chung, Vogue Italia’s Moschino launches capsule Franca Sozzani, Vogue China’s Angelica collection Cheung, Colin McDowell and Gucci’s Frida eremy Scott, after marking his Giannini. “For me, Rahul has won because Jdebut as Creative Director of Whimsy Fall of his ability to apply his knowledge of Moschino, has made available a few pieces from his recent atterns capture the collection. Joining the many quirk in various P designers who have started elements, this season selling their runway designs opting for unconventional right after the show, Moschino characters and branding in association with London as the focal point on store, Browns, has released the garment, taking a capsule collection of 10 their inspiration from items picked from the catwalk. cartoons, popular FMCG The collection includes bright products to a fantastic embroideries through wool, one of the red quilted nappa bag, belt, riot of fairies, squirrels, most versatile fibres, with originality in sweatshirts, T-shirts with ‘I do owls and swans. While an unexpected way,” said Giannini. The Speak Moschino’ graphics and the Dolce & Gabbana had designer has won prize money of US $ much-acclaimed French Fry Case. squirrels, nibbling on 92,210 i.e. approximately £ 55,420 and Previously available exclusively nuts, appliquéd over will also get to showcase this collection on moschino.com is now available a sky blue lace skirt at Harvey Nichols, Saks Fifth Avenue, 10 in Moschino’s stores and in a few merging what is child Corso Como, Joyce and David Jones. selected boutiques too. like with the elegant, Moschino had his ensembles coloured in bright yellow to focus on COLOUR STORY A/W 2014-15 by FASHION FORWARD TRENDS the many mischievous and comic expressions of PANTONE 15-4323 TPX SpongeBob SquarePants in a few and on others, McDonald's being PANTONE 18-4148 TPX translated to full length dresses and eccentric gowns. Holly Fulton and House of Holland, PANTONE 16-1219 TPX in comparison, took a rather sombre approach by opting for enlarged PANTONE 15-0942 TPX hand patterns and beauty accessories flanked on short dresses and coats. PANTONE 19-4220 TPX

40 Apparel Online India | MARCH 16-31, 2014 41 Apparel Online India valueaddition

From handcrafted to the machine-made world of quilting... Quilting, since the colonial times, has been a popular technique in India to repurpose scraps of materials into handicraft quilt blankets for providing warmth. Over the time, inspired by its comforting appeal of being fluffy and flocculent, a variety of apparel and home furnishing products like, duvets, cushions, bedspreads, hand bags, jackets, shoes and others have started to induce this technique in varied patterns, mixed with embroidery and patchwork. Quilting, a few years back was carried out only by hand but now with every value-addition technique moving towards automation, machine manufacturers have introduced long arm and multi-needle quilting machines to facilitate wider application of the technique. With quilting coming back into the spotlight again on several fronts and new technologies supporting its growth, this creative stitching method seems to have created its way into being a huge surface trend…

uilting, whether done in a showcased a heavily padded and folksy, sporty or tessellation- quilted leather motorcycle jacket with Q inspired way, is being utilized detachable hood where on the other for presenting interesting products. hand Balmain unveiled its black quilted Now, not being restricted only on leather dresses outfitted with big gold mattresses or blankets, the technique buttons and Mulberry added a touch has become a contemporary wardrobe of sparkle to its quilted white floral game-changer, making technology pieces by applying tiny sequins to it. giants innovate specialized A/W’14-15 also witnessed tessellated, machineries and attachments geometric, argyle and irregular specifically dedicated to quilting. patterns applied skilfully on cropped/ Machines are being setup and quilted bombers, jackets, dresses and programmed in such a way bottoms by Dior, James Long, Moschino that not only the foundation and Neil Barrett. quilting method, but other intricate and ingenious quilting Machinery as an aide techniques like appliqué, to this upcoming trend... Sashiko stitching, thread art From Zara quilted fleece sweatshirts and trapunto quilting can to Forever 21 quilted shorts, the also be achieved in the same rage of quilted clothing is gaining machine. Providing upmarket speed day by day. Not only fashion and stylish surface appeal wear but menswear sports attires, with a progressive look quilted pullovers and baseball caps has made quilting a trend and shoes have made many machine that has evolved for the manufacturers jump into the quilting better with years. bandwagon to be able to give the With the rising popularity of quilted correct technology required for achieving varied patterns and styles in With the rising jackets, quilted leather, jerseys and satins have positioned the thick the plethora of product categories. popularity of woollens as the secondary fabric quilted jackets, Quilting machines are broadly choice for the winters. Quilted fabric providing available in two varieties: Long arm not only keeps the wearer warm but upmarket and quilting machine and Multi-needle also adds 3D and tactile dimension quilting machine. Multi-needle quilting stylish surface to any piece or clothing or accessory, machine is comparatively newer in appeal with a adding natural volume to the the industry as compared to the other progressive silhouette. The trend of quilted clothing machine and both the machines come look, quilted is being pushed to the front line, as with their set of features to go well leather, jerseys noticed in the last few seasons, and with the requirement. The Long arm and satins have with the magnificent presence shown quilting machine is equipped with a positioned the on the runways of S/S’14 and A/W’14- sewing machine head, a worktable, thick woollens 15, quilting has marked itself for being several fabric rollers, and a metal as the secondary not only a major winter outerwear frame that can range from 10 to 14 fabric choice for trend but also a primary summer style. feet in length by two-and-a-half to four the winters. In the S/S’14 collections, Acne Studios feet in depth. In this quilting machine

42 Apparel Online India | MARCH 16-31, 2014 valueaddition

Multi-needle quilting machine being a new development is targeting the users with its various models and are also available with addition of embroidery, applique in the same machine in different fabric options.

Jackie, Trading Manager, Jiangsu Dadao Machinery Group Co. Ltd. with the company's Ruby Tsai, Representative and Chen Wei Qiang, Execute Director, Dongguan Chishing GDD series of quilting embroidery machine Machinery Co. Ltd. with the company's CS64 quilting machine the table holding the fabric remains driven by Panasonic saddle and drive industry and are distributing their stationary and the quilting head moves controllers with an adjustable stitch machine through Jingcheng India. The either manually or is computer-guided. length of 2mm-6mm. The company company has manufactured various Consisting of only a single needle with also provides a quilting embroidery GDD series of quilting machines with a laser pointer, makes the quilting machine, where quilting and embroidery with different features to process comparatively slower to the embroidery takes place simultaneously suit user’s necessities. Jackie, Trading Multi-needle quilting machine. Multi- on the same machine. Chen Wei Manager of the company is very upbeat needle quilting machine being a new further explains, “The width of quilting about the new model, double face and development is targeting the users embroidery machine is 3.3 metre double line quilting with embroidery with its various models and are also and maximum speed is 800 RPM and machine. “We are especially quilting available with addition of embroidery from net to leather, thick and thin any for garments and are trying different in the same machine. material can be used. This machine quality fabrics as well to achieve fine Dongguan Chishing Machinery Co. effects, like on leather and other heavy Ltd. from China has been developing gsm materials. This is a high speed quilting machines since the past two- machine with speed going up to 1000 decades and with their CS64, CS94, RPM,” informs Jackie. The company CS110 quilting and quilting embroidery believes India to be a growing market machines available in the market, and till now has made installations in the company believes quilting to be Delhi, Ludhiana, Chennai and Bombay. the next big surface ornamentation Another company established in the technique. The CS64 quilting machine year 1998, Sterling Creations Pvt. is 1.6 metres width and the maximum Ltd. provides a complete solution to speed is 500 RPM and is specially non woven and quilting industries all designed for quilting for handbags, over India. Dealing with various types garments, shoes and home furnishings Quilted cotton duvet fabric of computerized quilting machines, products like bedcovers and sofa including multi-needle mechanized covers. The machine is fitted with quilting machines, shuttle-less imported parts for sturdiness, and is specially made for garments. The computerized quilting machines and attached with a computer to feed responses of the buyers for these straight line quilters, reflects the perfect patterns of choice and designs which machines have been good, which combination of quality and technology. can be self-generated. “Our machine makes us believe that quilting has a It is clear that quilting trend has can do quilting on cotton fabrics, bright future.” progressed to a great extent and with leathers, rexene, in fact any type Owing to the increasing market exporters accepting this technique in of material can be quilted with this for quilted commodities in India, their product development processes, machine depending upon the end- another Chinese quilting machine and machine manufacturers developing product,” informs Chen Wei Qiang, manufacturer, Jiangsu Dadao machineries to develop quilted products; Execute Director of the company. Machinery Group Co. Ltd. have everything from quilted clothing to The CS64-2 row needle quilting launched their quilting with quilted detailing and accessories are machine uses CNC program and is embroidery machine for Indian emerging as a huge surface trend.

MARCH 16-31, 2014 | Apparel Online India 43 industrywire

Jaipur Ludhiana Apparel Inc./Bhoomi Fashions starting training centre Spencer Knitwears shifts to develop skilled workers for the local industry factory into industrial area for better working perator training is an area that trainees. Initially, we will have 40 Oshould be on priority for garment machines dedicated for the same in exporters, but sadly it is not so. While our own factory. Once the training many of the bigger exporters have will be in flow and our need will be their own in-house seup to train the complete, these trained workers operator as per their needs, it is good will be available for the industry. to know that a medium level export Training will be from minimum 3 to house is coming up with a training maximum 6 months and we will try to centre which will serve the industry make them multi-skilled operators,” also. Apparel Inc./ informs Saini. Bhoomi Fashions, Jaipur To give practical is planning to start its exposure and confidence own operator training to the trainees, the centre and land has company will use the already been procured centre to stitch its for the same. production on a regular JP Saini, Director basis. The centre will of the company who take almost three has 200 machines, is months to start and in Sandeep Thapar and Sonia Thapar, very passionate about the meanwhile camps Partners,Spencer Knitwears training. “I have a will be organized to create awareness about personal interest in JP Saini, Director, nown for being a major training and have Apparel Inc./Bhoomi Fashions the centre and attract Kmanufacturing base for the already trained few fresh talent. Along with domestic market, Ludhiana is also workers not only in stitching, but technical knowledge, soft skills will growing in the export segment, even in cutting and now they are also be a part of the training module. motivating manufacturers to be more working in various factories. But “Our purpose is not only to create a organized and build capacities. The this is not sufficient and as Jaipur pool of trained workers, but also to 23 years old, Spencer Knitwears is facing acute shortage of labour, reduce our cost as trained workers is a perfect example of the same, especially trained labour, having own have good efficiency and productivity,” manufacturing winter wear mainly training centre is the only solution. concludes Saini. It will be good to for the domestic market and also for Our centre will be in 5,000 sq. feet see if this training centre proves to a UK based wholesaler, the company area and women will be priority as be successful. is shifting its production unit to the industrial area, which has good amenities especially in terms of infrastructure. It is also adding four Delhi new flat knitting machines. Creative Chain Store moving in multi directions “We are into exports from the last five years, but as our unit was not dding new markets, new company sharing the future plans in an industrial area some problems products and building additional with Apparel Online said, “In Delhi were a part of daily routine. To A capacities are today the normal we have 350 machines, making almost avoid these problems and to work mantra for success and the 40,000 pieces per month, and in the in a better way, we have taken 3600 same is being followed by next 6 months we will add another sq. feet land in Industrial Area ‘A’ Creative Chain Store, Delhi 350 machines. We are also looking and here our factory will be spread – a part of the prestigious for space to build a new factory over three floors; the building is Creative Group. Creative which could be in Noida as well as in almost ready, and in April we will Chain Store is set to Delhi. Expansion is for a new product start production. Easy movement of double its capacity category – ‘basics’, as till date we material will be a good advantage for very soon and are majorly into highly embellished us in the new area as it has very wide has also started ladieswear with an average FOB of US roads and it will improve our working manufacturing $ 30 to 60. New products are targeted culture also,” shares Sandeep basic products for the US market, as very recently we Thapar, Partner of the company in too. Not only that, added two big buyers from the US.” conversation with Apparel Online. the company has also The new factory will manufacture The company is expecting 25 per entered the American knit products, as opposed to the cent growth this year. market recently. Sidharth current manufacturing setup which is Agarwal, Director of the focusing only on woven products.

44 Apparel Online India | MARCH 16-31, 2014 45 Apparel Online India indiacanvas

Garment Technology Expo 2014 Value adding machines dominated the growing demand for technology With business picking up for most exporters and domestic market booming, the recently concluded GTE saw visitation from all segments of the garment manufacturing industry looking for technology to add value to their operations. Despite the blackout due to heavy rains in the second half of the inaugural day, the show from day 2 was buzzing with activities. Displaying almost all available technology in garment manufacturing from across the world, the fair witnessed visitors from Pan India and even from other countries also. Understanding the need of apparel manufacturers and realizing their mindset, machine companies offered a wide range of products and price points to attract the market.

t was heartening to see S K Exports, Neetee Clothing, thought Ashish Singhania, a mix of top exporters, Eveline International, Pooja GM, Vam Hi-Fashion Garments Almost 450 big domestic brands, International, Landmark Group (Orient Fashions) shared, “We participants and medium and small level (Max), Benetton India (UCB), are looking for what more we 800 brands of manufacturers from C&A, Bodycare International, can add, upgrade and improve. various machines Iacross India, along with their Zonac Knitting Machines Continuous expansion is the and technology top level management, technical (Bonjour), Vasu Clothing, VK mantra for Vam Hi-Fashion from across teams, consultants, job workers Bajaj & Co. (Romance), etc. to Garments and especially in the world were and students from various mention a few. embroidery segment it has added displayed to the institutes. Moving towards many machines.” The reason Apart from individual needs of over 25,000 visitors expansion/upgradation were for the increased demand of the companies, value adding who thronged the companies like Pearl Global embroidery machines is not only Industries, Shahi, Orient machines especially embroidery the growing demand of high 4-day long show. machines were the focus for Despite that, many Fashions, Orient Craft, Richa value or value added garments, Global, Jyoti Apparels, Celestial many of the visitors. “Stitching but also a result of efforts to of visitors were and value addition is our focus of the opinion India, Radnik Exports, In Time bring all processes in-house. The Garments, Meenu Creation, especially the work which is same trend was noticed for the that there was no Pearl International, Indigo being done on Adda, and if domestic market also, as lot of real breakthrough Apparels, Maharana of India, possible to be done on machines visitors from the Gandhi Nagar, technology which Sterling Apparel Manufacturing now,” informed Anand Bhatia, (Delhi) area was looking for attracted them. (Jordan), Superfine Knitters, VP (Operations), Pearl Global embroidery machines. Umesh Jawandsons (Oster Group) Industries. Adding to the same Yadav of Shri Krishna Fabrics,

Wicrant Gambhir, GM – QA, PPC & SNS, Lifestyle International, Max Retail Division (c) studying a Anil Peshawari, MD, Meenu Creation (3rd from left), in deep discussion with the Eastman team at the machine at Loiva booth. Good numbers of domestic retailers were seen at the expo ALT booth. Many top-level exporters visited the fair

46 Apparel Online India | MARCH 16-31, 2014 indiacanvas

Woolmark and Raymond together launch “Cool Wool” in India

he Woolmark Company, best known for their textile fibre quality since 1964 and Raymond, TIndia’s major textile producer of worsted wool suiting fabrics have entered into a partnership to launch a “Cool-Wool” collection for Indian costumers, promoting wool as a trans-seasonal fibre in India. “Raymond has a rich legacy of wool and worsted products and over the years we have continuously reinvented wool in menswear ranges. As a part of our initiatives in exploring newer possibilities of wool consumption, we feel there is Virender Uppal, Chairman, Richa Global Exports (3rd from left), talking about a technology with a sizable opportunity to engineer products that are Viraf Turel of EH Turel & Company friendlier to the kind of climate we have in countries like India. The cool wool collection is a testimony to our belief that we have in us to offer wool which is more summer- Apart from various Some visitors from other friendly. This partnership is definitely going to kick-start types of machines countries included D’or Apparel wool-oriented fashion in India,” says Anirudh Deshmukh, and technologies, Manufacturing LLC, USA/ President – Textiles & Retail, Raymond Ltd. accessories were also Sterling Apparel Manufacturing The Cool Wool garments have been manufactured displayed by many LLC, which manufactures for from light-weight Merino wool fabrics, made with Jockey, Under Armour and companies which also super 100s merino wool and blends of merino wool in many other big buyers. The attracted visitors. This combination with cotton, linen and paper yarns, with operation Manager Suresh segment was dominated 190g/m2 weight and wool fibre diameter of 22.5 micron. Kumar of the Jordan unit was by Indian manufacturers Merino wool owing exploring different ideas of and suppliers, with only to its thermal- manufacturing. “We are going a few foreign accessory management to start a new factory in Haiti, companies displaying properties and so we are looking at how their products. breathable nature advanced it can be,” he shared. in lighter-weight Vijith Ratnasekera, Chairman/ fabrics works really MD, Randhi International, having 15 embroidery machines, well for warmer Rajagiriya, Sri Lanka has 70 is adding two aari embroidery climates such as computerized embroidery machines and believes, “Though India’s. Designed machines of Tajima, Barudan we are from unorganized market, by Indian fashion and other companies and he but our working is organized and designer Gaurav we keep upgraded ourselves.” was keen to find something new Jai Gupta – with for his embroidery section. contemporary Expansions into newer styling and finesse, product categories were also of As cost is becoming a major the menswear interest to many visitors. Pearl decider for manufacturers, collection consists International, Dahanu (Thane) many technology providers had (L to R) Peter Ackroyd, Global Strategic Advisor for The of 20 garments with has a long experience of fabric economy models to offer. MS Woolmark Company; Bernard Philip, Australia’s Acting High soft and luxurious and job working for organized Orange, Surat offered the entry Commission; Randeep Hooda, wearing Cool Wool Collection; and designer Gaurav Jai Gupta. handle, drape and retailers; the company is now level printing with MS JP5 Evo. clean fabric surface venturing into lingerie and Studio Next, Mumbai offered rendering elegant look. Jackets, shirts, tunic-shirts, was looking for machines for complete cutting room solutions trousers and pyjama pants garnished with delightful the same. “We are not looking at reasonable price. Many only for machines but also for companies offered products with checks and woven patterns in muted shades of blues, complete solutions in lingerie some advancement or with few blacks, greys, beige, whites and browns. This collection manufacturing but providers changes to deliver more value at will be introduced in the market from March 2014 at were not able to meet our very little additional cost. Most Raymond stores and leading multi-branded outlets in need,” shared Sadeep B. Jagad, of the apparel manufacturers the country. Partner of the company. Some are now talking to technology Talking about their partnership with Raymond, new companies into garment providers on how to get Peter Ackroyd, global strategic advisor and media manufacturing who were spotted customized solutions. It is no spokesperson for The Woolmark Company informed, at the event include S K Exports, more about what is being sold, “Raymond’s Cool Wool menswear collection exemplifies Delhi, Arfore Enterprises, but what the industry needs… the countless possibilities of using wool. The designs are Bangalore, Aradhana and the machine manufacturers practical, exclusive, and charismatic. We want Indian Enterprises, Jaipur, Aditi and suppliers are responding customers to understand the true potential, versatility, Garments, Delhi and SCS, Palwal. with the same enthusiasm. and the benefits of using wool in summers.”

MARCH 16-31, 2014 | Apparel Online India 47 exportstatistics

TRADE SNIPS EU Import Analysis – Jan.-September 2013 India Exports to the EU picking up with both Value and DGFT extends the duty credit scrip Volume increasing in first nine months scheme DGFT has extended the 2% duty credit scrip under the ery conflicting reports are Reviewing the first nine were up significantly by 7.15%. Market Linked Focus Product Vcoming in from the European months of 2013… The UVRs during this period Scrip (MLFPS) for RMG sector Union with regard to how retail As the overall economic scenario are down from Euro 21.60 (2% Duty credit scrip, HS 61 & is moving. While some buyers in the European Union remained (per kg of fabric equivalent) 62) to EU and USA for exports are going ahead as usual with in the same period in 2012 to from April 2014 till further uncertain, apparel imports in orders. DGFT in its notification sourcing, many others are the first nine months of 2013 Euro 20.29 (per kg of fabric amended the Chapter 3 more cautious. One thing is for registered decline in value by equivalent), yet they are the of Foreign Trade Policy. sure, the US retail scenario (-) 0.89%, though volumes were highest in the region. Virender Uppal, Chairman, is definitely on the upward up by 4.78%. The average UVR Bangladesh registered gains AEPC welcoming the move projectile, while EU retailers are of imports in the review period of 9% in value of exports and remarked, “The incentive to still trying to find the winning RMG products, which have decreased from Euro 17.01 (per substantial increase of 17.10% formula in an economy which is the highest employment kg of fabric equivalent) in the in volume of exports in the intensity and potential was still limping. UK, which is India’s nine months period in 2012 to first nine months of 2013. the need of the hour. I am biggest market for apparel Euro 16.09 (per kg of fabric Significantly, the average UVRs, sure that this decision of the exports followed closely by equivalent) in the same period of which the country is receiving is Government would surely go a Germany, is encouragingly seeing the review year. Though Indian also lower at Euro 11.51 (per kg long way to offset infrastructure a revival of interest in ‘buying’. apparel exports continued to of fabric equivalent), down from inefficiencies and other Germany in the meanwhile associated costs involved in be slow, there was a marginal Euro 12.37 (per kg of fabric manufacturing and marketing remains steady and has in increase in value of exports to equivalent) in the same period of these products.” fact been the saving grace for the tune of 0.63%, while volumes last year. many exporters working in the Vietnam’s garment European Union. & textile exports Economist and retail forecasters EU GLOBAL APPAREL IMPORTS — JAN.-SEPTEMBER 2013 surge 44.9 per warn that though UK consumer cent confidence is improving but it Country/ Jan-Sep. 2012 Jan-Sep. 2013 % increase / decrease The exports of garments and remains slow. Despite predictions Category Qty Value Qty Value Qty Value textiles from the Southeast for the highest growth in retail WORLD Asian nation of Vietnam for six years, the 2014 recovery Knitted 1585.98 24621.55 1695.97 24719.55 6.93 0.40 surged 44.9% year-on-year in February 2014 to reach US $ will be held back by high personal Woven 1406.07 26280.28 1439.25 25731.24 2.36 -2.09 1.3 billion, reports the Ministry debt levels, negative headwinds Total 2992.05 50901.83 3135.22 50450.79 4.78 -0.89 of Industry and Trade. In the from other parts of the global CHINA first two months of the current economy and inflation. Some key Knitted 642.78 9500.52 685.39 9180.67 6.63 -3.37 year, Vietnamese garment observations by retail analyst and textile exports earned predict that though essentials Woven 733.02 11694.70 706.59 10861.69 -3.61 -7.12 US $ 3.2 billion, showing a Total 1375.80 21195.22 1391.98 20042.36 1.18 -5.44 year-on-year growth of 30.1%. will represent vanguard of retail Several clothing companies growth; food, clothing & footwear INDIA have signed export contracts to and health & beauty are set to Knitted 80.18 1397.70 90.06 1492.38 12.32 6.77 last them until third quarter of be best performing sectors. This Woven 70.25 1851.69 71.13 1777.51 1.25 -4.01 this year. Last year, Vietnam’s is good news for the clothing garment and fabric exports Total 150.43 3249.39 161.19 3269.89 7.15 0.63 industry, which has maintained a rose by 18.9% year-on-year to BANGLADESH low profile in the last two years. US $ 17.946 billion. Knitted 345.16 3982.52 388.55 4252.67 12.57 12.57 With consumers becoming more Woven 186.87 2599.00 234.47 2921.40 25.47 12.40 Myanmar earns price-sensitive and looking for Total 532.03 6581.52 623.02 7174.07 17.10 9.00 over US $ 1.1 value for money, it has become SRI LANKA billion from imperative for retailers to cater garment export to every market point for more Knitted 31.15 557.97 31.62 533.53 1.51 -4.38 Myanmar earned more than business, so analyst expect Woven 25.62 494.93 23.69 429.07 -7.53 -13.31 US $ 1.1 billion in 2013 from that many retailers will work Total 56.77 1052.90 55.31 962.60 -2.57 -8.58 garment exports due to EU’s to develop low, medium and PAKISTAN restoration of GSP trading high value product ranges. And privileges, Garment exports Knitted 42.36 378.51 49.50 434.52 16.86 14.80 from Myanmar are expected though brick and mortar stores Woven 47.05 583.48 51.36 617.44 9.16 5.82 were losing client base in the to reach US $ 1.5 billion in Total 89.41 961.99 100.86 1051.96 12.81 9.35 2014. Myint Soe, Chairman last decade, now multi-channel VIETNAM of Myanmar Garment retailers need to recognize the Manufacturers Association said evolving role of physical stores, Knitted 23.56 353.72 22.35 338.77 -5.14 -4.23 the thriving garment sector as consumers become more Woven 49.51 978.77 51.42 1000.12 3.86 2.18 was able to create more job opportunities in 2013. considered in approach, looking Total 73.07 1332.49 73.77 1338.89 0.96 0.48 for value and quality. Qty. & Value in mn Kg & Euro

48 Apparel Online India | MARCH 16-31, 2014 49 Apparel Online India exportstatistics

EU Import Analysis – Jan.-September 2013 Japan Apparel Imports: Jan.-Oct. 2013 India continues to register growth in T-shirts Japan registers  T-shirts are among the top categories imported by the EU. However, with the slowdown, growth in apparel even this category has seen a downslide and over the first nine months of 2013, the EU imports in first ten imported 414.56 million kg of T-shirts worth Euro 5,888.95 million. Impacted by the overall months of 2013 slow economy, the segment registered decrease in value of (-) 1.85%, though volumes were up 1.83% during the period under review. Even as the Japanese  India has been seeing growth in the export of T-shirts to the EU over the year and many economy faces some believe this is due to shift in orders from Bangladesh. In the period under review, the hiccups and there is fear that prolonged deterioration country exported 29.71 million kg of T-shirts worth Euro 505.19 million to the EU. India has in Japan’s current account registered an increase in export of T-shirts to the EU with remarkable gains in both value balance would erode the and volumes during the review period of 10.91% and 17.44%, respectively. nation’s position as a net  Bangladesh has also seen continuous growth in this category over the year and in the creditor, one of its main credit strengths… the first nine months of 2013 the country exported 172.08 million kg of T-shirts worth country continues to be Euro 1,708.66 million in the defined period. Compared to the movement of the product in an attractive market for the year 2012, Bangladesh registered increase in values of 2.79% while volumes were garment exporters across up 7.41%. all manufacturing bases including India…

 In the first ten months of Trousers, a key product from Bangladesh 2013, imports by Japan have seen an increase in value of  Trousers are a popular category, and even in the recession time there is a positive growth 21.51% from the same period in the demand for the product in the EU. The import of trousers both in terms of value and last year, while the volumes increased by 3.62%. Knitted volumes were up. Over the first nine months of 2013, the EU imported 442.60 million kg garments registered an of trousers worth Euro 2,031.34 million. The category registered an increase in value in the increase of 3.56% in volumes, review period of 10.42%, while the volumes over the same period in 2012 saw an increase while the import of woven of 26.06%. garments increased 3.78%. The values were up in woven  For India trousers are an important category of exports, which registered gains in value, and garments by 20.03%, while quantities. In the defined period, India exported 21.45 million kg of trousers worth Euro those of knitted garments were up by 23.08%. 360.52 million. During the period under review, export value increased 4.29% over the  India, during the review period same period in 2012, while the total quantity increased by 14.72%. saw exports to the country  Bangladesh is a big player in this category and in the review period trousers saw further up by 13.11% in value, while growth. The country exported 197.05 million kg worth of trousers during the first nine the decline in volumes was (-) 5.84%. There was a significant months of 2013 worth Euro 2,163.97 million, this marks an increase of 14.83% in value, decrease in volumes of while volumes increased substantially by 31.72% from the same period in 2012. exports of woven garments of (-) 11.26%, while knitted garments saw an increase in ITEM-WISE PERCENTAGE INCREASE IN APPAREL IMPORTS BY EU: JAN.-september 2013 volumes of 12.95%.  Bangladesh remained on track Exports to EU with value of export increasing Total Imports by EU APPAREL TYPE China India Bangladesh Vietnam 41.10%, volumes rose 15.15%. The gains are from Qty Value Qty Value Qty Value Qty Value Qty Value both segments, with woven Babies Wear 1.35 -3.98 -6.71 -12.59 11.51 7.31 27.26 21.33 4.42 -0.83 garments registering increase Foundation Garments -0.67 -8.66 -17.20 -23.62 5.15 6.65 -5.71 -10.63 16.38 -0.34 of 41.69% in value and 18.91% in volumes. Knitted Jackets & Blazers 4.57 -2.59 6.86 -3.80 2.91 10.49 34.95 35.20 13.00 18.87 garments saw increase in Ladies Blouses 2.88 0.16 0.01 -3.66 -0.18 -1.81 6.52 9.68 13.59 10.42 values of 40.31%, while Ladies Dresses 1.63 -5.57 2.96 -7.76 0.35 -9.74 -1.86 -2.07 12.12 -2.80 volumes increased 13.11%.  Vietnam has also continued Ladies Skirts -4.51 -8.71 -10.22 -13.53 -9.80 -18.31 22.79 -2.96 -13.45 -20.04 to register significant increase Legwear 9.97 3.01 10.11 2.19 -11.84 -10.84 72.91 50.86 -35.08 -23.20 in both value and volume Mens Shirts -5.00 -7.71 -12.95 -14.87 -3.02 -6.49 2.28 -0.74 -10.91 -6.21 of exports by 92.98% and 110.09%, respectively. Nightwear 7.42 0.80 0.85 -5.60 17.90 11.89 21.14 8.54 21.97 8.13  China is still the biggest Suits / Ensembles -3.83 -9.56 10.74 -9.11 -0.92 1.25 31.70 30.83 12.05 0.86 exporter to Japan and in the Sweaters 11.76 2.09 11.19 -2.18 19.63 14.17 17.69 8.82 -17.09 -9.43 defined period, the volume of Trousers 26.06 10.42 -5.42 -12.98 14.72 4.29 31.72 14.83 2.16 17.47 exports registered increase of 2.17%; the values however T-Shirts 1.83 -1.85 0.11 -6.63 17.44 10.91 7.41 2.79 -1.78 -3.63 were up by 29.63%. Undergarments 5.17 0.67 2.65 -1.20 2.70 5.36 43.16 28.85 -12.17 -4.63

50 Apparel Online India | MARCH 16-31, 2014 51 Apparel Online India resourcecentre

Monarch Graphics focuses on being visible with innovative Print Solutions Following a successful lineage of over 50 years in printing technology which was initiated by his forefathers who came from Pakistan, Bhrigav Jain, ventured into a new business format primarily focusing on Apparel, Health, Home and Personal care labels through Monarch Graphics in 2011. Currently with a turnover of Rs. 8-9 crore, the company till date has provided a reliable back-end support to its customers, but now is geared to use various technological innovations for advance solutions in printing. In conversation with Team Apparel Online, Bhrigav Jain, Director, Monarch Graphics, talks about focusing on making his company visible to the industry...

lient, Confidentiality and tinkered with under any circumstance. Business Ethics have laid a “If you apply heat, the label would “Cfoundation for Monarch to be evaporate, if you tear it off it will shred a preferred partner for the customers in pieces and if you try to cut then the as well as suppliers, which has helped cut mark would be visible. We are trying in sustaining continuous growth for past to educate our customers through three years,” informs a beaming Bhrigav. latest innovations by providing labels An ISO 9001:2008 certified company, which would help them to improve their MGIPL, is being guided by the 35 years processes,” asserts Bhrigav. As response experience of Pavail Jain, a Printing to the product comes in, Bhrigav is Technologist from Allahabad and founder confident that these tamper proof labels of the company. By using the best will be amongst the company’s driving available print technology and resources, factor as more people complain about Monarch provides quality printing fiddling with their products. services in self-adhesive labels and can With Carbon Foot Print Reduction high print on any kind of films, papers and on his agenda, Bhrigav is also looking foils. And to maintain and sustain their to educate market about Direct Thermal quality, they utilize contemporary quality Printing Technologies and is trying to tools like spectrophotometer, barcode promote non-tearable, 100% recyclable verifiers and rub testers. roll to roll tags for Barcode Printing. The The Monarch Graphics print technology company these days is excited about umbrella boasts of flexography, a whole new product for online selling letterpress, offset, screen and digital companies, which Bhrigav plans to offer printing. The apparel portfolio of the “When we added digital printing them to streamline their inventory and company mainly comprise of non-staining machines we thought it was a billing mechanism with help of one label and cut manpower costs. size strips, roll to roll tags and price huge risk as it was not in line hiding labels, which also forms their Apart from doing a lot of innovative work, core business. The company is also with our present system, but the name Monarch is still unheard of by active in the domain of data capture gradually in the past six months, many people. Therefore the company labels and cosmetics labels. While after a lot of R&D, we have is primarily focusing on being in the the industry is constantly looking at limelight this year by being present in solutions, the company undertakes realized that this is the future.” various exhibitions, direct marketing various technological innovations to keep Bhrigav Jain, activities and foremost providing quality Director, Monarch Graphics their customers happy. Incorporating products and maintaining flexibility an amalgamation of various printing in terms of their product offerings. processes in their factory, the company on anything ranging from Leathers, “Currently we are manufacturing labels ventured into digital printing “When Canvas etc.,” avers Bhrigav. The at par with international quality but still we added digital printing machines we company is not afraid of venturing into nobody knows Monarch,” avers Bhrigav, thought it was a huge risk as it was unknown areas and is constantly trying who abides by his father’s message, ‘We not in line with our present system, but to grab opportunities coming their way. are on crest of a large competition and gradually in the past six months, after a “Seeing the quality of our printing and we need to have courage to dream big’. lot of R&D, we have realized that this is the creativity of application, a lot of Having the technical know-how, decades the future,” maintains Bhrigav. international customers who we meet, of experience and market credibility, Now the company offers complete ask us if we can replicate designs sent on the company’s name is sure to be heard design, proto-type and commercialize various surfaces,” adds Bhrigav. in the future due to their cost-effective package. “We have NO MOQ and print Amongst their latest offerings is the products and their long-standing even 1pc. Foremost we can print directly tamper proof seal which cannot be relationship with the industry.

52 Apparel Online India | MARCH 16-31, 2014 53 Apparel Online India resourcecentre

One Stop Packaging providing innovative solutions for growth in business

rimarily known for labels, One informs Paramveer Singh, Owner of “We have done labels for promotional Stop Packaging is a one-stop One Stop Packaging. The increasing garments and a few of our bigger Pshop for garment accessories importance of security is not only projects have been the promotional such as labels, tags, hangers, providing restricted to the international market, jackets for Formula One and packaging and security solutions to as demand in the domestic market is the Russian Olympic team,” its customers. The company is looking picking up through installation of the informs Paramveer. forward to good growth with a few company’s security pedestals such as Apart from labels, the company in line specialized Electronic Article Surveillance (EAS) with the latest awareness for things products, while which is an anti-theft device providing sustainable has also designed a new adhering to security at retail level. biodegradable poly bag, which is quality and Being a nominated supplier to a few transparent from one side and black timely delivery of Canadian and Spanish companies the from the other. This relatively new its products. company caters to all kinds of labels product has got a good response from Amongst its such as woven, printed, tags and the customers as it is less harmful to specialized packaging materials through its two the environment in comparison to the products, the manufacturing facilities in Surat and normal polybag. “Earlier there was a security/alarm Delhi. While the Surat setup is basically little resistant to this product because labels are very for continuous production of small of the cost but we have shared that much in demand orders in standard designs, the Delhi extra bit with the customers so they following one includes a team of designers and a are now happy. To a customer, the international bigger setup for large orders. “Having price difference would be about 3-4 trend, and being an in-house manufacturing setup is a per cent, but overall it is 5-7 per cent. the North India big advantage as we can not only control We are able to cover our 2-3 per cent, channel partners cost and quality, but can also address a which only a few can, due to good to Tyco, one lot of specialized and customized needs orders,” explains Paramveer. of the largest of our customers. In fact, that is what Meanwhile, the company has also companies in sets us apart from other companies started producing its own specialized the world for doing similar products,” says Paramveer. hangers, which are mainly in small retail security Known for their commitment on delivery sizes and customized shapes for Paramveer Singh, solutions, the company supplies AM schedules, the company is always products such as ties, belts, etc. due to Owner, One Stop labels to brands such as Mango, experimenting with new concepts and the constant need to meet the clients Packaging Promod, Hugo Boss, Louis Vuitton, is open to working with customers to demand for a complete solutions etc. “These labels are becoming as give ‘something extra’. In labels an package. “We have maintained important as any embellishments interesting area that they work in is a standard and we adhere to it,” in the garment which secures it,” labels which help in promoting brands. concludes Paramveer.

ELASTICS / TAPES BUTTONS / BUCKLES

54 Apparel Online India | MARCH 16-31, 2014 resourcecentre

EMBROIDERY FABRIC / LACES HANGERS / PACKAGING ACCESSORIES

EMBROIDERY FABRIC / LACES THREADS / YARN

EMBROIDERY FABRIC / LACES

MARCH 16-31, 2014 | Apparel Online India 55 56 Apparel Online India StrikeOne Apparel Inc.: A new buying house based in Canada and India

fter the experience and million and is expecting 50 per Delhi-NCR. Even though the venture Aexposure of working in India cent growth in the second year. is a startup, I have not seen any major with leading Buying Houses and Rajeev, who worked with challenge; the only challenge is that in Canada for Importers/ Triburg for 9 years, is very retailers tend to compare the price Licencee/Brands, starting upbeat of the potential of with Bangladesh and China. The best his own venture was a StrikeOne. “I wanted to use solution for India is to work on value natural growth path my experience to garner not price, otherwise it will be more for Rajeev Pahwa with better opportunities for and more difficult,” avers Rajeev. a vision to bring fresh myself and also the Indian Rajeev is also exploring sourcing business into the country. exporter, and my decision options in Bangladesh and China Rajeev initiated StrikeOne proved right. Over these due to price-competitiveness, but Apparel Inc., a buying years, I have noticed that his top priority will remain India. “It operation based in Canada, shrinking margins has driven takes almost one year to understand working for the Canadian/ away many importers and the vendor/customer and if you US markets. my effort was to reconnect don’t believe in long-term relations, Currently sourcing across with these importers and you can’t survive, so we are trying all categories of apparel, the introduce them to a fresh to build long-term relations with success of the venture can set of vendors who could all our stakeholders. We have also be gauged from the fact that meet their demands. Now controlled our overheads to remain in just 2 years of operations we associate with many competitive,” he informed. and working with a team of 8 retailers in Canada and are The company sources mainly woven professionals, the company sourcing from 7 vendors in products with an average FOB of US has done business of US $ 4 India, out of these 3 are from $ 3 to 15.

MARCH 16-31, 2014 | Apparel Online India 57 58 Apparel Online India 59 Apparel Online India