©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 269 Behind the Scenes SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to postal submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – and the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/privacy.

OUR READERS of Shànghǎi, Zhèjiāng and Jiāngsū for making my journey so enjoyable and absorbing. Many thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, use- Christopher Pitts ful advice and interesting anecdotes: Michael As always, thanks to everyone who offered Campbell, Tom Connelly, Eric Danziger, Roland valuable insight or who provided company Dussart-desart, Zhang Fan, Rachel Diane Field, along the way. Much gratitude is due to Gerald Crystal Isabel Fischetti, Thomas Grant, Katharina and May Neumann for their hospitality and great suggestions. Thanks as well to Miranda G uth, David Hartsuiker, Jace Labrenz, Matthias Yao, Wang Xinhai, Laure Romeyer, Sandy Chu, Landsberger, Holger Lichau, Monica Luo, Jesse Lynn Ye, Caroline and Antoine Lebouc, Sam Mandell, Peter Uftring, Viktoria Urbanek, Jeroen Maurey and Claudio Valsecchi. van de Weijer, Toon van der Hoorn, Marie-Claude Special thanks also to co-author Vinette, Oxana Vom Brocke, Stephanie Wang Damian Harper, Emily Wolman, Barbara Delis- sen, Annelies Mertens, Mark Griffiths and all AUTHOR THANKS those who work behind the scenes. Damian Harper And love to Perrine, Elliot and Celeste, who Thanks first and foremost to Dai Min, Dai Lu, Li provide more inspiration than they’ll ever know. Jianjun, Chris Pitts, Katarina Nilsson, Edward Li, Maggie Zhang, Grace Wu and Henry Zhao. ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Thanks also to Jiale and Jiafu for their constant Cover photograph: Shànghǎi World Financial good humour and support. Gratitude more­ Center and Jinmao Tower with Yùyuán Gardens over to the irrepressibly hard-working people & Bazaar in foreground. Grant Faint/Getty Images©.

THIS BOOK Coordinating Editors Assisting Cartographers Carolyn Bain, Monique Perrin Corey Hutchison, Eve Kelly This 6th edition of Lonely Coordinating Cartographer Cover Research Naomi Parker Planet’s Shanghai guidebook Mark Griffiths was researched and written Internal Image Research Kylie McLaughlin by Damian Harper and Chris- Coordinating Layout Mazzy Prinsep topher Pitts. The 5th edition Designer Illustrator Michael Weldon was written by Christopher Managing Editors Barbara Language Content Branislava Pitts and Daniel McCrohan, Delissen, Annelies Mertens Vladisavljevic and the 4th edition was writ- Senior Editors Catherine Thanks to Lucy Birchley, ten by Damian Harper and N aghten, Andi Jones Lauren Egan, Ryan Evans, Lorna David Eimer. This guidebook Managing Cartographer G oodyer, Eva Murphy, Trent was commissioned in Lonely Alison Lyall P aton, Kerrianne Southway, Planet’s Oakland office, and Managing Layout Designer P hillip Tang, John Taufa, Diana produced by the following: Jane Hart Von Holdt, Gerard Walker, Juan Commissioning Editors Emily Assisting Editors Janet Austin, Winata Wolman, Kathleen Munnelly Ali Lemer, Anne Mulvaney 270

See also separate subindexes for:

5 EATING P000P274 6 DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE P275 6 DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE P000 3 ENTERTAINMENT P000P276 7 SHOPPING P276P000 42 SLEEPINGSPORTS & P000ACTIVITIES P277 Index 4 SLEEPING P277

1933 complex 153, 166 Art Labor 96 food 51, 56, 66-9 Chénxiānggé Nunnery 77 arts 220-7 highlights 50, 52-60 cheongsams 227 festivals 23-5 shopping 51, 72-3 Chiang Kaishek 211-12, 213 A accommodation 17, Astor House Hotel 64, sights 52-61, 65-6 children, travel with 26 189-202, see also 153, 201 transport 51 Art Palace 15, 141, Sleeping subindex ATMs 255 walks 54-5, 64, 64 230-1 acrobatics shows 26, 41 Bund History Museum China Baptist Publication activities, see individual 28, 52 Society 64 B China International Arts activities, Sports & Ba Jin’s former residence 96 Bund promenade 52 Activities subindex Festival 25, 221 Báiyún Temple 78, 82 Bund Sightseeing Tunnel 61 Ai Weiwei 220 China Pavilion 15, 141, 230-1 Bank of China building Bund, the 7, 15, 28, 52-6, China Silk Museum 174-5 air travel 240, 241, 243 53, 55 233, 5, 6-7, 52, 54-5 China Tea Museum 175 airports 17, 240-2 bargaining 44 bus travel 27, 244-5, 247 Chinese Academy of Art 175 All Saint’s Church 93 bars 39-40, see also business 249 ambulance 252 Drinking & Nightlife business cards 249 261-8 American Concession 208 subindex business hours 30, 40, Chinese medicine 255 amusement parks 26, 188 bathrooms 258 44, 249 Chinese New Year 23, 25 Anren Street 79 bats 221 Chinese Sex Culture antiques 44, 45, 251, see beaches 78, 168 Museum 184 also Shopping subindex C Christ the King Church 160 Beaugeste 95 cafes 38, 39, 40, see also aquariums 26, 138-9, 143, Bibliotheca Zi-Ka-Wei 158 Eating subindex, Drink- Christianity 160 165, 143 bicycle travel, see cycling ing & Nightlife subindex Christmas 25 architecture 86, 228-38 Birthday of Guanyin 24 calligraphy 60, 225 Chu, Sandy 114 21, 232-3, 232, Blue Wave Pavilion 181 canal towns churches 22, 237 233 boat tours 124-5, 164, Qībǎo 164, 164 cinema 204, 225-6 concession era 232-3 183, 187 Sūzhōu 178-83, 180 festivals 24, 167, 226 Hóngkǒu 149, 153 boat travel 144, 245, 248 Tónglǐ 184-5 cinemas 42 lǐlòng & lòngtáng 14, books 204, 209, 218, 221-2, Zhōuzhuāng 186-7 City God Temple 185 90, 91, 121, 234-5, 14, 223 Zhūjiājiǎo 14, 185-6, 14 classical music 42 234-5 literary festivals 24 Cantonese food 33-4, 38 climate 17, 23-5 modern 12, 20-1, 218, 228, boutiques 21, 43, 45, 114, car travel 248 clubs 39, 40, see also 230, 13, 229, 230-1, 227, see also Shopping Drinking & Nightlife Cassia Ma 213 238 subindex subindex Cathay Theatre 93 neoclassical 232, 232-3 Boxer Rebellion 210 communist sights 28, 132 cell phones 16, 257 religious 236-7, 236-7 British Concession 208 Community Church 160 censorship 253 shíkùmén 78, 91, 92, 153, 64, 153 Confucian Temple 78, 81, 234-5, 234 Broadway Theatre 150 Centre of Jewish Studies 181, 81 Shànghǎi 152 area codes 257 Bubbling Well Road consulates 251 Century Avenue Area, art deco 21, 232-3, 232, Apartments 128 cooking schools 33 see Pǔdōng 233 budgeting, see costs Cool Docks 78, 166 140 art galleries 21-2, 90, 123, Bund & People’s Square, the costs 16 Chang, Eileen 222 220-1 48, 50-73, 50, 280-1, accommodation 189, 190 Chángfēng Ocean World 165 62-3 drinking & nightlife 40 accommodation 192-5 Chángníng, see West food 30, 32 Sights 000 drinking & nightlife 51, Shànghǎi free attractions 28 Map Pages 56, 70-1 cheap eats 32, 38 000 taxes 257 Photo Pages entertainment 71-2 chemists 254-5 000 Cotton Textile Mill 164 271 counterfeits environmental hazards 253 former Shànghǎi Rowing Happy Valley 26, 188 goods 44 etiquette 36 Club 64 Hardoon, Silas 125 money 255 events, see festivals & former 64 health 252-3 Couple’s Garden 179 events Formula One 24 Himalayas Art Museum courier companies 256 Commemoration Franco, Tim 166 139 courses, cooking 33 Exhibition 141 free attractions 28 history 206-19 credit cards 256 Expo Center 141 French Concession 9, 10, conflict with Japan INDEX cultural centres 250 Exquisite Jade Rock 76 49, 88-119, 208, 88, 212, 214 , , , , 155, 286-7 290-1 8 10 Cultural Revolution

215-17, 224 106-7, 209 215-17, 224 c

F -

accommodation 195-8 Hóngkǒu 150 i culture 70, 204-5, 224 Fairmont 15, drinking & nightlife 89, holidays 23-5, 256 currency 16, 255 53, 192, 20, 213, 233 105-12 Hong Merchant Gallery Custom House 56, 63, 63 Fángshēng Bridge 185 entertainment 112-13 66, 96 customs regulations 44, fashion 9, 45, 226-7, see food 10, 89, 96-105 Hong Xiuquan 209 250-1 also Shopping subindex highlights 88, 90-1 Hóngdé Temple 150 CY Tung Maritime Museum Fǎzàngjiǎng Temple 82 shopping 9, 89, 113-18 Hongkew Methodist 28, 158 ferries 144, 245, 248, see Church 153 cycling 247-8 also boat tours sights 90-2, 94-6 Hóngkǒu & North Shànghǎi bike rental 176 festivals & events 23-5 sports & activities 119 49, 148-55, 148, tours 248 JUE Festival 23, 223 transport 89 298-9 listings 40, 224, 250 walks 93, 93 accommodation 201, Fundazzle 165 Shanghai Biennale 24, 201-2 D 77, 221 Fùxīng Park 92 Dàjìng Pavilion 78 architecture 153 Shanghai Fashion Week drinking & nightlife dangers 256-7 227 154 day spas 134, see also Shanghai International G food 149, 152-4 Sports & Activities Film Festival 24, galleries, see art galleries subindex 167, 226 Gallery Magda Danysz 151 highlights 148, 151 Deke Erh Art Centre 90, 220 227, 252 gangsters 213 history 150 Dino Beach 26 films, see cinema garden design 77 shopping 149, 154-5 disabilities, travellers fire department 252 Garden of Harmony 182 sights 150-1 with 258 fish 32 Garden of the Master of transport 149 Dǒngjiādù Cathedral 78 Flower, Bird, Fish & Insect the Nets 181 Hóngqiáo Airport Area, Dongtai Road Antique see West Shànghǎi Market 78, 81, 80 Garden to Linger In 182 Market 87, 11 Hóngqiáo International food 29-38, 10, 29, 30, gay travellers 40, 252 Dragon Boat Festival 24 Airport 241-2 31, 33, 34, 35, 37, see Gēnglè Táng 185 drinking & nightlife 12, 39- also Eating subindex, Gòngqīng Forest Park 154 hospitals 254 40, see also Drinking & individual Grace Baptist Church 128 hostels 189, see also Nightlife subindex Sleeping subindex neighbourhoods graffiti 220 drinking water 253 hotels 189, see also food streets 21, 32, 34, Grand Canal 182 driving 248 69, 131 Sleeping subindex 73, 213 Du Yuesheng 213 hairy crabs 24, 32 hotpot 34-5, 38 Green Gang 213 Dubail Apartment language 263-4, 267-8 HSBC Building 56, 232-3 Guangqi Park 161 Building 93 local life 27 Huang Jinrong 213 Gǔběi, see West Shànghǎi dumplings 30, 32, 38, 10 opening hours Huángpǔ 89 Cultural 30 Huángpǔ Park 52, 61 Street 150 organic 104 H Huángpǔ River Cruise 63, street food 21, 32, 34, haggling 44 65, 62-3 E 69, 131 hairy crabs 24, 32 Hudec, Ladislaus 233 East Road 61 foreign concessions Hall of Heralding Spring 76 Huíchūn Táng 175 207-9, see also French economy 204-5, 217-19 Halloween 24 Humble Administrator’s Concession electricity 251 Han Han 222 Garden 179 former British handicrafts 45 Hunanese food 33 Embankment Building Consulate 64 86, 153 Hángzhōu 9, 170-8, Húqìngyú Táng Chinese former Palace Hotel 56 embassies 251 172-3, 9 Medicine Museum 175 former residence of Liu accommodation 177 emergencies 252 Haisu 93 drinking & nightlife 177-8 entertainment 41-2, see former residence of Mao I also Entertainment Zedong 124, 128, 132 food 176-7 internet access 253 subindex, individual former residence of Zhou sights 171, 173-6 island6 123 neighbourhoods Enlai 93, 94 transport 170, 176 itineraries 18-19 listings 40, 224, 250 272 Liao Changyong 225 Mercedes-Benz Arena 141 shopping 86-7 J lǐlòng, see lòngtáng Meteorological Signal sights 76-8, 82 11, Língyǐn Temple 173 Tower 56 transport 75 122, 11, 122, 236-7 Lions’ Grove 179 metro 15, 245-6 walks 79, 79 James Cohan 66, 96 literature 204, 209, 218, Mian Mian 222 Old Trades House 164 Jardine Matheson 53 221-2, 223 Mid-Autumn Festival 24 opening hours 30, 40,

INDEX INDEX jazz music 41, 42, 224 festivals 24 migrant workers 219 44, 249 Jesuit heritage 157, 159 Liu Haisu Art Gallery 165 Mínshēng Art Museum 165 opera 41, 42, 224, 225 jewellery 45 Liúli China Museum 15, Missions Building 64 206-7, 216

J Jewish heritage 125, 149, 94-5, 221 mobile phones 16, 257 organic food 104 -

P 151, 152, 215, 237 live music 42, see also MOCA Shànghǎi 65, 220 Oriental Pearl TV Tower 138, Jìng’ān 49, 120-35, 120, Entertainment subindex Moller House 95 143, 145, 13, 142, 229 293, 294-5, 126-7 local life 27 money 255-6, see also orientation 82, 85 accommodation 198-9 Lónghuá Temple & Pagoda costs Other Gallery 123 drinking & nightlife 121, 159 Monument to the People’s 131-3 Lónghuá Temple Fair Heroes 52 entertainment 133 24, 25 Moon Boat 141 P food 121, 125, 129-31 painting 60 Lóngjǐng Village 175 mosques 237 highlights 120, 122-3 Pán Gate 181-2 lòngtáng 14, 90, 91, 121, museums 22, 26, 28 shopping 134-5 234-5, , , Park Apartments 93 14 234-5 235 music 41, 42, 222-5 sights 122-5 221, 222 Park Hotel 66, 194-5 Muslim food 34 sports & activities Lu Xun Former Residence parks & gardens 28 121, 135 151 Peace Gallery 53 transport 121 Lu Xun Memorial Hall 151 N Peach Garden Mosque 82 walks 128, 128 Lu Xun Park 151 name cards 249 Pearl Dock 65, 138 Jìng’ān Temple 15, 124, Lùjiāzuǐ Finance and Trade Nanchang Road 93 Pearl Pagoda 185 126, 127 Zone 137 Nánshì, see Old Town People’s Commune 217 Jìngcí Zen Monastery 174 Lùjiāzuǐ Walkway 166 National Day 24 People’s Park 65-6 Jǐnjiāng Amusement Park Lúpǔ Bridge 82 Natural Wild Insect People’s Square 65-6, see 159-60 Lúwān 89 Kingdom 139 also Bund & People’s Jinmao Tower 86, 139, 145, Lyceum Building 64 New Asia Hotel 153 Square, the 13, 229, 238 New Year 23, 25 pharmacies 254-5 Jīnshān 221 newspapers 250 phonecards 257 JUE Festival 23, 223 M nightlife, see drinking & M50 12, 28, 123, 126, 220, photography 166 juice bars 133 nightlife 12, 123, 126 Píngjiāng Lù 179 noodles 34, 38 m97 123 Píngtán Museum 179 North Bund 15, 61, 64, Madame Tussauds 26, 66 261 K 149, 64 Kadoorie, Elly 125 magazines 40, 224, 250 planning North Shànghǎi, karaoke 41 Maglev 242 budgeting 16, 28, 30, 32, see Hóngkǒu & North 40, 189, 190 Kong Residence 150 Main Post Office 153 Shànghǎi children, travel with 26 Kūnqǔ Opera Museum 179 Major Seminary 159 North Temple Pagoda 179 festivals & events 23-5 malls 32, see also Shopping subindex itineraries 18-19 L Mandarin 261-5 O local life 27 Lane 1025 86 observation decks 20, 26, 222 repeat visitors 15 language 16, 27, 218, 261-8 137, 139, 140, 145 124, 132, 214, Shànghǎi basics 16-17 food 263-4, 267-8 OFoto 123 217, 217 Shànghǎi’s Shànghǎihuà 70, 264 Ohel Moishe Synagogue Maoming Road 93 neighbourhoods 48-9 street signs 82 151, 236 markets 10, 22, 45, see travel seasons 16-17, 23-5 Ohel Rachel Synagogue Lantern Festival 23 also Shopping subindex websites 16-17 128, 152 legal matters 253-4 martial arts 168, 227, see police 252 Old Street 79 Léifēng Pagoda 174 also Sports & Activities political museum 150 Old Town (Tónglǐ) 184 Leo Gallery 66, 96 subindex politics 204-5, 217-19 travellers 40, 252 Martyrs Memorial 160 Old Town 49, 74-87, 74, pollution 253 284-5, 80-1 Li, Leo 66 massage 118, 134, see also population 205, 219 accommodation 195 Sports & Activities Post Museum 28, 150 subindex drinking & nightlife 75, postal services 256 Sights 000 measures 250 84-6 posters 84, 95, 221 Map Pages 000 medical services 254-5 food 75, 82-4 77, 141 Photo Pages 000 medicine, Chinese 255 highlights 74, 76 Precious Belt Bridge 182-3 273 Propaganda Poster Art Shànghǎi Arts & Crafts Shěshān Basilica 188 tours 183 Centre 95, 118 Museum 28, 95, 221 shíkùmén 78, 91, 92, 153, transport 178 property 204 Shànghǎi Astronomical 234-5, 234 Sūzhōu Creek 219 public holidays 23-5, 256 Museum 188 Shíkùmén Open House Sūzhōu Creek Boat Tours public transport 27 Shanghai Biennale 24, Museum 92, 107, 106 124-5 77, 221 Pǔdōng 49, 136-47, 136, Shíliùpù Docks 65 Sūzhōu Museum 179

296, 297, 13, 142-3 Shànghǎi Botanical Shíliùpù Fabric Market 79, Sūzhōu River 166 INDEX Gardens 159 accommodation 200-1 81, 86-7, 80 Sūzhōu Silk Museum 179 Shànghǎi Children’s Palace drinking & nightlife 137, shipping 44 124 synagogues 128, 151,

144, 146 shopping 21, 43-5, 90, 91, 152, 237 P

Shanghai Chinese Painting - entertainment 146 8, see also individual T Institute 220 food 137, 140-4 neighbourhoods, Shànghǎi Club 53 Shopping subindex T highlights 136, 140 Shànghǎi Duōlún Museum antiques 44, 45, 251 taichi 27, 227, 5 shopping 146-7 of Modern Art 150 boutiques 21, 43, 45, tailor-made clothes 43-4 sights 138-40 Shànghǎi Exhibition Centre 114, 227 Taiping 209-10 transport 137 124 fashion 9, 45, 226-7 Tàiziwān Park 175 walks 145, Shanghai Fashion Week 145 language 264 taxes 257 Pǔdōng International 227 markets 10 taxis 246-7 Airport 240-1 Shànghǎi Gallery of Art 56 opening hours 44 tea 109 Shànghǎi History Museum shopping streets 117 teaware 45 26, 138, 143, 143 Q telephone services 16, 257 Shànghǎi Hóngqiáo Sichuanese food 32, 38, 35 Qian Xuesen Library & Railway Station 15, sightseeing buses 247 Temple of Mystery 179, 181 Museum 159 243, 231 Silva, Sacha 86 Temple of the Town God 77 Qiántáng River 175 Shanghai International Film Sinan Mansions 93 temples 22, 126-7, 236-7, Qībǎo 164, 164 Festival 24, 167, 226 Site of the 1st National 236-7 Qīncìyǎng Temple 140 Shanghai International Congress of the CCP 92 theatre 42, see also Qing dynasty 206-10 Literary Festival 24 Six Harmonies Pagoda 175 Entertainment subindex Qīnghéfáng Old Street 175 Shànghǎi International Sky Marathon 139 theft 256 Qūyuàn Garden 174 Marathon 25 12, 20-1, 218, Three on 56 Shànghǎi Italian Centre 228, 230, 13, 229, Tiánzǐfáng 90, 107, 166, 141 220, 90, 107, 234-5 R 238, see also Shanghai Jewish Refugees observation decks Tiger Hill 182 radio 250 Museum 151 Song Qingling Exhibition time 16, 258 Red Town 165 Shànghǎi Museum 7, 28, Hall 165 tipping 30, 256 river cruises 65 57-60, 63, 221, , , 7 57 Song Qingling Mausoleum 165 toilets 258 Riverside Promenade 138, 62, 59 Song Qingling’s Former Tomb Sweeping Day 24 143, 145, 143 Shànghǎi Museum of Residence 96 Tomorrow Square 66 Rockbund, see North Bund Contemporary Art Soong family 94 (MOCA Shànghǎi) Tónglǐ 184-5 15, South Shànghǎi, 65, 220 tourist information 16, 61, 66 see Xújiāhuì & South 17, 258 Rong Yiren 128 Shànghǎi Museum of Shànghǎi Natural History 65 tours Rong Zongjing 128 souvenirs 45 Shànghǎi Museum of bicycle 248 Royal Asiatic Society Space 96 Public Security 28, 95 boat 124-5, 164, 183, 187 Building 64 St Ignatius Cathedral Shànghǎi Ocean Aquarium bus 247 Russian Consulate 64, 153 158, 237 26, 138-9, 143, 143 Russian Orthodox Mission St Ignatius Convent 159 Jewish heritage 150, Church 95-6 Shanghai Pride 227, 252 151, 152 St Nicholas Church 92, 94 Russians 210, 214 Shànghǎi Science & sidecar 248 street food 21, 32, 34, Technology Museum Tousewe Museum 158 26, 139 69, 131 street names 82, 85 traditional Chinese S Shànghǎi Tower 15, 145 medicine 255 safety 256-7 Sun Court 128 Shànghǎi Urban Planning traffic 256 Sassoon family 125 Exhibition Hall 65 Sun Yatsen’s Former train travel 15, 242-4 scams 51, 257 Shànghǎi World Financial Residence 92, 93 transport cards 248 sculpture 220 Center 140, 145, 229 Sunny Beach 78 travel agencies 248 seafood 32 Shànghǎi Zoo 26, 165-6 Sūzhōu 178-83, 180 travel to Shànghǎi 17, 240-5 Seal Engravers Society 174 Shànghǎihuà 70, 264 accommodation 182 travel within Shànghǎi 17, drinking 183 Shadow Puppet Museum ShanghART 66, 123 245-8 164 food 183 Shen’s House 187 travellers cheques 256 Shànghǎi Art Museum sights 179, 181-3 Shěshān 187-8 Treaty of Nanking 207, 208 65 274 Tuìsī Garden 184 shopping 163, 167 Zhou’s Miniature Carving Din Tai Fung (Jìng’ān) TV 250 sights 164-6 Gallery 164 129 Twin Bridges 186-7 sports & activities 163, Zhōuzhuāng 186-7 Din Tai Fung (Old Town) 84 twocities 123 167-8 Zhūjiājiǎo 14, 185-6, Din Tai Fung (South Shànghǎi) 160 transport 163 14 Dolar Shop 68 wine bars 40, see also Zhūjiājiǎo Catholic Church Dōngyīshùn 176 INDEX INDEX U Drinking & Nightlife of Ascension 185 Uighur food 34, 38 subindex zoos 26, 165-6 Dragon Gate Mall 83-4 urban density 205 women travellers 260 URBN 86 5 EATING

AT E Woosung Railway 211 E work 249, 260 1001 Noodles House 161 el Willy 83

ING World Expo Site 15, 77, 141, 1221 166 Element Fresh (French V Concession) 105 vaccinations 252 230, 230-1 Element Fresh (Jìng’ān) Valentine’s Day 23 Wú Chāngshuò Memorial A Hall 139 130 vegetarian travellers Afanti Restaurant 154 Element Fresh (Old Tourist 35-6, 38 Ajisen 68 Town) 84 Information Center visas 16, 258-60 96 Art Salon Restaurant 99 Element Fresh (Pǔdōng) visual arts 220-1 Azul 103 144 WWII 214 Element Fresh (South Shànghǎi) 161 W B Wàibáidù Bridge 64 X Bai’s Restaurant 104 Xiàhǎi Buddhist Baker & Spice 130 F walks 28 Monastery 150 Bali Laguna 130-1 Fat Olive 84 Bund, the 54-5, 54-5 Xiǎoyíng Island 171 Bankura 98 Ferguson Lane 103 French Concession 93, 93 Xinhai, Wang 100 Bǎoluó Jiǔlóu 103 Food Fusion 98-9 Jìng’ān 128, 128 Xīntiāndì 91, 97, 91 Bellagio Café (French Food Republic 69 North Bund 64, 64 Xīshí Bell Tower 150 Concession) 98 Franck 103 Old Town 79, 79 Xiùdàozhě Pagoda 188 Bellagio Café (West Fu 1039 101 Pǔdōng 145, 145 Xīxiálíng 171 Shànghǎi) 166 Fu 1088 129 Wallis, Raefer 86 Xu Guangqi 161 Bì Fēng Táng (French Concession) 100 Wang Anyi 222 Xúhuì 89 G Bì Fēng Táng (West Wangyima Alley 79 Xújiāhuì & South Shànghǎi Shànghǎi) 166 Ginger 103 Ward Road Jail 150 49, 156-61, 156, 300-1 Glo London 104 water 253 accommodation 201-2 Golden Pot 130 C water parks 26, 168 entertainment 161 Gōngdélín 130 Cantina Agave 105 Waterhouse Hotel 86, 195 food 157, 160-1 Grand Café 141 Canton 141 Grandma’s Kitchen 176 weather 17, 23-5 highlights 156, 157 Carrefour 166 Grape Restaurant 105 websites 16, 17, 221 shopping 161 Char 83 Green Tea Restaurant sights 158-60 fashion 114 Charme 68 176 health 253 transport 157 Cha’s 98 Grill 141 history 208 City Shop (French Guǒyúan 152 train travel 244 Concession) 100 Gǔyì Húnán Restaurant Y City Shop (Jìng’ān) 131 travel 240 Yang, Loretta 15 (French Concession) 101 weights 250 City Shop (West Shànghǎi) Gǔyì Húnán Restaurant Yánguān 175 167 West Garden Temple 182 (Jìng’ān) 129 Yuánjīn Buddhist Temple Coconut Paradise 105 West Lake 9, 170, 171, 9 185 Coffee Tree 103 H West , Yuanmingyuan Crystal Jade (French see Jìng’ān Apartments 64 Concession) 98 Hǎi Dǐ Lāo (Jìng’ān) 100, 129 West Shànghǎi 49, 162-8, Yuè Fēi Temple 171 Crystal Jade (Jìng’ān) Hǎi Dǐ Lāo (Pǔdōng) 100, 144 162, 302-3 Yùyuán Gardens & Bazaar 129-30 Hǎijīnzī 97 accommodation 202 9, 76, 77, 8, 29 Cucina 141 Haiku 101 entertainment 167 YWCA Building 64 Hongmei Road food 163, 166-7 D Entertainment Street highlights 162, 164 Z Da Marco 105 167 Zhang’s House 187 Déyuèlóu 183 Huanghe Road Food Street 69 Zhèjiāng Provincial Dī Shuǐ Dòng 97, 104 Sights 000 Museum 174 Diǎn Shí Zhāi Xiǎo Yàn 98, 100 Map Pages 000 Zhōngshān Park 165 I Photo Pages 000 Din Tai Fung (French Infiniti Plaza 99 94 Concession) 97 275 Blarney Stone 111-12 J O W Blue Frog 146 Jade Buddha Temple On 56 140-1 Wagas (Bund) 68 Bookworm 183 Vegetarian Organic Kitchen 105 Wagas (French Boxing Cat Brewery 108, Restaurant 131 Origin 99 Concession) 105 110 Jean Georges 67 Wagas (Jìng’ān) 130 Brew 146 Jen Dow Vegetarian Wáng Bǎohé Jiǔjiā 70 Brix 85 P INDEX Restaurant 130 Wèixiāng Zhāi 99 Pho Real 102 Jesse 101 Wǒ Jiā Cāntīng 104 Jiājiā Soup Dumplings 69 Pǐnchuān (French C Concession) 102 Wǔ Fāng Zhāi 69 Jīn Shā 176 Café 85°C (French NIGHTLIFE & DRINKING Pǐnchuān (Jìng’ān) 129 Wujiang Road Food Street Concession) 108 131 Pizza Marzano 130 Café 85°C (Jìng’ān) 133 Wúyuè Rénjiā 69 K Café des Stagiaires 108 Kabb 100 Q Camel 110 Kagen 101 X Qímín Organic Hotpot Captain’s Bar 71 Kebabs on the Grille Xian Yue Hien 103-4 Char Bar 84 (Bund) 69 129 Xiǎo Jīn Líng 69 Citizen Café 108 Kebabs on the Grille (Old Xībó Grill 102 Cloud 9 144 Town) 83 S Xīndàlù 153 Constellation 110 Kitchen Salvatore Cuomo San Gines 153 141 Xīnjiāng Fēngwèi Constellation 2 108 Shànghǎi Grandmother Restaurant 100, 160 Kobachi 141 Cotton’s 109 68 Xīnjíshì 99 Kommune 99 Shànghǎi Min 98, 105 Xīshèngyuán 183 Kota’s Kitchen 160-1 Shànghǎi Uncle 67 D Kungfu Noodles 102 Shintori Null II 102 Dada 110 Shook! 68 Y Dr Wine 110 Yàkèxī 183 L Shǔ Dì Làzi Yú Guǎn 104 Yang’s Fry Dumplings La Pedrera 176 E Sìchuān Citizen 102-3 (Bund) 68-9 Lánxīn Cāntīng 97 Eddy’s Bar 110 Simply Thai 100, 104 Yang’s Fry Dumplings Lǎo Hángzhōu Fēngwèi (Jìng’ān) 131 el Cóctel 109 Sōngyuèlóu 84 177 Yang’s Fry Dumplings Enoterra 109, 111 Lè Shēng 103 South Beauty (French (North Shànghǎi) 154 Concession) 104 Eudora Station 178 Legend Taste 130 Yè Shànghǎi 99 Lóngpáo Xièhuáng Tāngbāo South Beauty (Pǔdōng) 141, 144 Yi Cafe 141 167 Yīn 101 F South Memory 68 Fennel Lounge 131-2 Lost Heaven (Bund) 66-7 Yunnan Road Food Street 69 Southern Barbarian Flair 144 Lost Heaven (French Yúxìn Chuāncài 67 Concession) 101 97-8 Spicy Joint (Bund) 69 Lóuwàilóu 177 G Lynn 129 Spicy Joint (French Z Geisha 108 Concession) 100 Zhūhóngxìng 183 Stiller’s Restaurant & Glamour Bar 63, 70, 62 M Cooking School 83 DRINKING & Glo Lounge 111 M on the Bund 67 6 NIGHTLIFE Méilóngzhèn Jiǔjiā 131 T 100 Century Avenue I Melange Oasis 99 T8 97 144, 146 I Love Shànghǎi 126, 132-3, Mr & Mrs Bund 67 Table No 1 by Jason 390 Bar 112 126 Atherton 83 N Táishèngyuán Restaurant 69 A J Nánxiáng Steamed Bun Abbey Road 110 Jane’s Pub Bar 183 Restaurant (Bund) 69 Tsui Wah 100, 102 Apartment 110 Jiao Bar 70 Nánxiáng Steamed Bun Atanu 71 Restaurant (Jìng’ān) 83 U Nánxiáng Steamed Bun Ultraviolet 67 K Restaurant (Old Town), B Kāibā (French 83, 31, 36 B&C 132 Concession) 108 Nepali Kitchen 103 V Bandu Cabin 133 Kāibā (Jìng’ān) 132 New York Style Pizza Vegetarian Lifestyle Bar Rouge 71 (French Concession) 100 (French Concession) Barbarossa 71 New York Style Pizza 99 L Bell Bar 105 (Jìng’ān) 131 Vegetarian Lifestyle Lola 111 Nina’s Sìchuān House 69 (Jìng’ān) 129 Bǐ’àn 183 Long Bar 70 Noodle Bull 102 Victor’s 68 Big Bamboo 132 Lòushì 108 Nougatine bar 67 Vivi Kitchen 98 Bites Lounge 154 276 Chinese Printed Blue M 3ENTERTAINMENT Nankeen Exhibition M M1NT 71 Hall 118 Madame Mao’s Dowry Brown Sugar 112 Malone’s 132 Chouchou Chic 115 117 Cathay Theatre 112 Maya Bar 177 City Shop 146-7 Mayumi Sato 114, 118 Cotton Club 112-13 Mid-Lake Pavilion Tea- Cybermart 116 Metro City 161 house 76 Dàguān Theater 146 INDEX INDEX Moonlight Teahouse 85-6 Fairmont Peace Hotel Jazz Bar 71, 224 D N Mural 112 House of Blues & Jazz Dàshànghǎi 155 Nanchang Road 117 Muse 71 Nine 115 E 71 Details Gallery 155 N Image Tunnel 133, 227 Dongtai Road Antique NoD 115 TERTA N JZ Club (Hángzhōu) 178 Market 87, 11 Not Just Silver 113 New Heights 70 JZ Club (Shànghǎi) 113 Duǒyúnxuān Art Shop NuoMi 114, 116 No 88 111 72-3

IN Kodak Cinema World 161

ME Kūn Opera House 161 O MAO Livehouse 112 E Old Street 87 N O Elbis Hungi 117 T Old China Hand Reading 146 Room 108-9 Paramount Ballroom 133, Electronics Market 155 P Old Film Café 154 232 Esydragon 113 Pacific Digital Plaza 161 Old Shanghai Teahouse 85 Partyworld 112 Even Penniless 117 Paramita 117 O’Malley’s 112 Peace Cinema 72 Shànghǎi Centre Theatre PCS (Pop Classic 133 F Sneakers) 115 P Shànghǎi Concert Hall Foreign Languages 135 Patio Lounge 141 72 Bookstore (Bund) 73 Pottery Workshop 114, 118 People 7 111 Shànghǎi Conservatory of Foreign Languages Propaganda Poster Art Music 113 Bookstore (West Centre 95, 118 Shànghǎi) 167 Shànghǎi Film Art Centre R Fúyòu Antique Market 87 167 Q Roof Club 133 Shànghǎi Grand Theatre Qīpǔ Market 154-5 72, 231 G S Shànghǎi Gǔqín Cultural Garden Books 116 Sasha’s 112 Foundation 113 Grand Gateway 66 161 R Shànghǎi Brewery 111 Studio City 133 Raffles City 73 Shànghǎi Studio 111 UME International Cineplex 112 H Shelter 110 Yìfū Theatre 71-2 Han City Fashion & S Shiva 111 Yùyīntáng 167 Accessories Plaza 134 Shànghǎi 1936 113 Spot 132 Harvest 113 Shànghǎi Book Traders 7 SHOPPING Heirloom 114, 115 Used Books 73 T Henry Antique Warehouse Shànghǎi Museum Art 100 Change & Insect 115 Store 73 Time Passage 111 167 Hépíng Finery 115-16 Shànghǎi No 1 Department TMSK 109, 13 A Hóngqiáo International Store 73 Shànghǎi No 1 Food Amy Lin’s Pearls (Jìng’ān) Pearl City 167 Store 73 V 134 Huāyàng Niánhuá 116 Shanghai Tang (French Vienna Café 108 Amy Lin’s Pearls (Pǔdōng) Huìfēng Tea Shop 109 Concession) 115, Vue 154 147 43 Shanghai Tang (Pǔdōng) 146 Annabel Lee (Bund) 72 I Shànghǎi Trio 115 Annabel Lee (French Y IFC Mall 146 Concession) 115 Shiatzy Chen 72 Yawaragi 85 AP Xīnyáng Fashion & Gifts Shíliùpù Fabric Market 79, YY’s 109 Market 147 J 81, 86-7, 80 Apple Store 116 Jǐngdézhèn Porcelain Shokay 114 Z Art Deco 134 Artware 134 Silk King 72 Zeal 84-5 Jip 113 Simply Life 115, 118 Joma 113 Source 117 B South Bund Fabric Market Ba Yan Ka La 117 87 Blue Shànghǎi White 72 L South Maoming Road 117 Brocade Country 117 la vie 114 Spin 134 Sights 000 Liúli China Museum Shop Superbrand Mall 147 113-14 Map Pages 000 C Sūzhōu Cobblers 72 Photo Pages 000 Changle Road 117 277 Subconscious Day Spa 119 Park Hyatt 200 T Wǔyì Chinese Kungfu I Peninsula Hotel 192 Thing, The 116 Centre 119 In Lake Youth Hostel 177 Phoenix 194 Tiānshān Tea City 109, 167 Píngjiāng Lodge 182 Tiánzǐfáng 9, 113-14, 4 SLEEPING 8 J Portman Ritz-Carlton 199 Tóng Hán Chūn Traditional 88 Xīntiāndì 196 Púdǐ Boutique Hotel 196 Medicine Store 86 Jia Shànghǎi 199 Jǐnjiāng Hotel 198 Pǔdōng Shangri-La 200 INDEX Jǐnjiāng Inn (Bund) 194 Púlì 198-9 U A Andaz 195 Jǐnjiāng Inn (Jìng’ān) 199 Unique Hill Gallery 113 Āntíng Villa Hotel 198 Jumeirah Himalayas Hotel Q S Urban Tribe 118 PO Asset Hotel 201-2 200-1 Quintet 195-6 Astor House Hotel 64, JW Marriott Tomorrow ACT & RTS W 153, 201 Square 192 William the Beekeeper R 114, 116 Ritz-Carlton Shànghǎi B K Pǔdōng 200 Woo 113 Kevin’s Old House 196 Beehome Hostel 201 Ruìjīn Hotel 197 I Koala Garden House 201 V I

Blue Mountain Bund T

X 193 I S ES Xīngguāng Photography Blue Mountain Youth Equipment 116 L Sofitel Hyland Hotel Hostel 197 Langham Xīntiāndì 195 Xinle Road 117 194 Langham Yangtze XinleLu.com 117 Soho People’s Square Boutique 193 Youth Hostel 199 Xīntiāndì 114-15 C Captain Hostel 194 Le Sun Chine 196 Sūzhōu Mingtown Youth Xīntiāndì Style 115 Hostel 182 Casa Serena 197 Le Tour Traveler’s Rest 199 Chai Living Residences Les Suites Orient 192 Y 201 T Yada Pearl Market 147 Tea Boutique Hotel 177 Yányè Míngchá 109 M D Magnolia Bed & Breakfast Tongli International Youth Yě Huǒ Hùwài Yòngpǐn 195 Hostel 184 Diàn 116 Dōnghú Hotel 198 Mansion Hotel 196 Yú 117-18 Marco Polo Sūzhōu 182 Yùnhóng Chopsticks U F Marriott Hotel Hóngqiáo Shop 72 Uma Hostel 186 Fairmont Peace Hotel 15, 202 Urbn 198 53, 192, 20, 213, 233 Marvel Hotel 193 Z Four Seasons Hotel Mingtown E-Tour Youth Zhang’s Textiles 134-5 Hángzhōu 177 Hostel 193 W Zhēnchálín Tea 109, 114 Mingtown Hiker Youth Waldorf Astoria 192 Hostel 193 Waterhouse at South Bund SPORTS & G Mingtown Nanjing Road 86, 195 2 ACTIVITIES Grand Hyatt 200 Youth Hostel 193 Westin Shànghǎi 193 Mingtown Youth Hostel Apsara Spa 135 Gǔzhèn Hotel 187 Wúshānyì International 177 Aromassage 135 Youth Hostel 177 Motel 168 194 Dino Beach 168 H Motel 268 (Bund) 194 Double Rainbow Massage Hàntíng Hotel 197 House 119 Motel 268 (French X Héngshān Moller Villa Concession) 198 Xījiāo State Guest House Dragonfly 119 196-7 202 Green Massage (French Hilton Hotel 197 Concession) 119 Hofang International Youth N Green Massage (Jìng’ān) Hostel 177 Naza International Youth Y 135 Holiday Inn Downtown Hostel 201 Yuèyáng Hotel 198 Hatha Yoga Center 119 199 Lóngwǔ Kung Fu Center 119 Home Inn 194 O Z Mandarine City 167-8 Hóngqiáo State Guest Zhèngfú Cǎotáng (Tónglǐ) Míngwǔ International House 202 Okura Garden Hotel Shànghǎi 197 184 Kungfu Club 168 Hongsen Forest Park Zhèngfú Cǎotáng One Wellness 135 Hotel 154 (Zhōuzhuāng) 187 Oz Body Fit 135 Hotel Carolina 202 P Zhōuzhuāng International Shànghǎi Yínqīxīng Indoor Hotel Indigo 195 Pacific Hotel 194 Youth Hostel 187 Skiing 168 Park Hotel 66, 194-5 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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