Butterflies of Hungary

Naturetrek Tour Report 16 - 23 June 2009

Great Banded Grayling Purple-edged Copper

Sloe Hairstreak Scarce Copper

Report compiled by Vic Tucker

Images by kind courtesy of Denise Whittle

Naturetrek Cheriton Mill Cheriton Alresford Hampshire SO24 England 0NG T: +44 (0)1962 733051 F: +44 (0)1962 736426 E: [email protected] W: www.naturetrek.co.uk

Tour Report Butterflies of Hungary

Tour Leaders: Vic Tucker (Naturetrek Tour Leader & Naturalist) Gerard Gorman (Local Guide, Naturalist & Tour Manager)

Participants: John Wyatt Christine Dennis Mike Carlill Peter Bruce-Jones Mark Bunch Denise Whittle Brian Smith Margaret Hairby Keith White Richard Dyer Diana Dyer Jacqueline Dunn Mary Peacock Bob Lugg

Day 1 Tuesday 16th June

The group was met at Budapest’s Ferihgy Airport by Gerard Gorman, our very experienced local guide who has guided many of Naturetrek's bird, butterfly and natural history tours in C & E Europe. The plane arrived early and as everyone was present, we soon had everyone aboard the minibus. Once we were assembled, our driver, Attila soon had our luggage stowed on the vehicle. In addition to driving was also responsible for handing out copious cold drinks and setting up the picnic lunches each day. Nothing was too much trouble for him. Our only other stop was for refreshments etc. overlooking the Matra Hills. Providing some interest here were several very confiding Crested Larks, Common Buzzards, Red-backed Shrikes and an impressive Eastern Imperial Eagle.

We continued our journey to the the northeastern corner of Hungary. Our early arrival at our hotel in Aggtelek allowed time to freshen up and relax following our early morning flight and onward travel, prior to our most welcome evening meal.

Hungary boasts some 170 species of butterfly as its national total. At the time of year and region we are visiting, over 100 species could conceivably be recorded, though a more realistic figure to aim at considering our length of stay (amongst other considerations) would hopefully be into higher double figures. Now it was all down to the all important good weather and good group participation, together with a dash of good luck.

Following a cold and snowy winter, spring in Hungary was warm, beginning in early April. Though intermittently broken by cooler, showery conditions, overall it was warm – often hot. Therefore, late spring into early summer was a good time for butterflies, luckily for us.

Butterflies of Hungary Tour Report

Day 2 Wednesday 17th June

Weather: Hot and sunny – ideal! We spent the morning within 1km of our hotel, partly to compensate for yesterday’s travelling, close to the hotel (only some 500m from the Slovak border) in a flower-filled meadow and also, in the afternoon in a narrow tree- lined valley. This venue proved very popular and productive particularly for hairstreaks such as Green, Sloe, Black and Ilex. Rare and local are Woodland Brown – we saw several – as well as Woodland Grayling.

Immediately outside of our well-placed hotel, which lies within Aggtelek National Park, are excellent butterfly habitats: flowery meadows and a tree-fringed dry limestone (karst) bank, full of wild flowers and butterflies of such habitats like Wood White and Berger’s Clouded Yellows, also skippers, including challenging Grizzled, Oberthurs’s and Safflower were identified.

Our first picnic lunch was taken at another nearby site, a sunny grassy and wooded glade also very productive, again another host of butterfly families intermingling and jostling for our attention. Easy to identify ones were graceful Black-veined Whites and swallowtails. Of fritillaries, there were: High Brown, Dark Green, Silver- washed, Marbled and Lesser Marbled, whilst blues were represented by diminutive Short-tailed, Eastern Short- tailed and Small (or Little) Blues. Among plentiful Common Blues was our only Turquoise Blue of the trip. Both Scarce and Large Coppers provided splashes of vivid orange among a sea of colours.

Our first full day in the field had amassed an amazing tally of 61 species, not a bad haul by any standards, which had included several of our most wanted target species.

Day 3 Thursday 18th June

Weather: As yesterday. The early birders exploring their new local patch were rewarded with excellent sighting of Turtle Doves, displaying Golden Orioles, Hoopoe, Great and Middle Spotted Woodpeckers and Barred Warbler. Beside the large marshy pool sang a Great Reed Warbler in full view! An amazing 300 Hawfinches were estimated, dropping in to drink there. Also seen were plentiful Red-backed Shrikes, Black Redstarts and Tree Sparrows.

Our first destination was an essential morning visit a picturesque stream valley near Josfavo, in general a brilliant butterfly area set amid a wide range of habitats: woodland, sunny glades and open meadows. In particular, we wished to witness a scintillating experience: the spectacle of myriad assembled ‘puddling’ butterflies – we were to be far from disappointed.

Among clouds of butterflies imbibing vital salts and other nutrients from the banks of a muddy stream and horse dung littering the turf, were various families separated into their associated groupings. Fritillary clumps contained hundreds of Dark Greens, also High Browns including several of the form cleodoxa with only a bland brown under hindwing, also small numbers of Silver-washed. Drifts of blues contained mainly Common and Silver-studded and a few Mazarine and Adonis. Groups of whites were mainly Small. Lesser numbers of other kinds were also involved. This obviously important and commonly occurring phenomenon, found over much of Europe, is basically unknown in the UK – so too in Scandinavia and Finland for example – an intriguing scientific conundrum.

2 © Naturetrek kiera

Butterflies of Hungary Tour Report

However wonderful and difficult to adequately describe in prose, this truly special gathering proved to be, it was by no means our only star attraction as other species here only included both Hungarian and Common Glider, similar White Admiral, several Lesser Purple Emperors, three Poplar Admirals and several Large Tortoiseshells! A low-flying male Goshawk carrying a large kill further added exciting variety.

We ended our breathtaking day at a high grassy hillside where in particular Alcon Blue of a distinct form (formerly known as Mountain Alcon Blue) were seen in number. This evening, Gerard had to take his leave of our tour due to breaking a tooth, but before he did so he arranged for a very capable colleague to substitute him.

Day 4 Friday 19th June

Weather: Clear skies, hot 33C Changeover day. Time only for the early birders to once again search around this fascinating spot, seeing many of the same desirable birds, though added to by Denise who watched two Quail in short grass…..from her bedroom window! Our route toward our next hotel set in another vast national park – the Bukk Hills detoured to take in further butterflying opportunities in the Izra Valley.

Today, one of our destinations was, in general, the low Upponyi Hills, a little-visited Landscape Protection Area. We followed a minor single-track road throughout its length, halting whenever likely spots appeared. Here, among many previously-seen species such as impressive Lesser Purple Emperors, was our sole Purple Emperor, but fleetingly glimpsed, gorgeous Queen of Spain Fritillaries and a Cardinal.

Then we went on to the village of Noszvaj and the ever-welcoming Nomad Hotel with its unfailing hospitality and superb food. Here we met up with Szabolcs Safian, otherwise known as Safi, who is one of Hungary’s leading lepidopterists - a jovial academic who also excels in the field – lucky us!

Day 5 Saturday 20th June

Weather: During the morning, sunny and warm, becoming more cloudy, windy and cool, but dry during the afternoon. The pre-breakfast brigade scored heavily with woodpeckers – obtaining views of Grey-headed, Green, Syrian, Great, Lesser and Middle Spotted, the latter feeding young at their nest-hole! We also watched Collared and Spotted Flycatchers, and Cuckoo and Kingfisher were notable.

The day was spent in the Hor Valley, a narrow, heavily-wooded gorge with glades and rocky outcrops forming ‘hot-rock’ habitat as well as flower meadows. Such rocky places are attractive to species like Blue Spot Hairstreak, Hungarian Skipper and Mountain Argus, all seen and photographed. Searching the meadows, we discovered caterpillars of Southern Festoon, now too late in the season to be on the wing. Another Cardinal was spotted, but again only in rapid flight: even so, the distinctive ‘jizz’ (behavioural pattern) and olive-green upper surfaces and flashes of pink underwing were noted by most. Our only Idas Blues of the trip were here.

Butterflies of Hungary Tour Report

Opportunity was taken by Safi to illustrate field ID techniques for separating the ‘nightmare’ fritillary threesome, Nickerl’s, Assman’s and Heath. Due to the cloudy, cool conditions, they were more easily observed. For certain confirmation, forensic-like under-hindwing detail has to be checked. This is only possible at closest quarters – best in the hand – and even then, some individuals may not be identified for certain. Safi explained that it has been suggested that there could even be some hybridization, but this has been insufficiently studied to confirm the theory. He was, though, able to demonstrate that all three of the ‘difficult’ species were present.

Despite an earlier end to our nonetheless very rewarding day, deteriorating weather becoming less conducive to butterfly hunting, but we did also see further notable birds, especially: Honey Buzzards, Hobby and Rock Bunting. We returned satisfied to our hotel, later to feast upon another sumptuous “banquet”.

Day 6 Sunday 21st June

Weather: Intermittent showers all morning ceased by mid-afternoon, but cloud and a cool breeze persisted. Plan A was unfortunately but definitely aborted! Plan B.….go birdwatching! As everyone in the group had at least some interest in birds, several were keen birders anyway, off we set to the outskirts of the Great Plain, where conditions were likely to be better and birds more obviously plentiful. Despite such inclemency, we intrepid Naturetrekers more than contended with the elements. Luckily, birds are far less affected than insects, so during the course of the day we witnessed several of Hungary’s most sought-after birds, gaining really good views of most.

An interesting mix of habitats was visited. A drainage dyke in the Borosdi Mezoseg region is good, not only for birds but its extensive, gradually sloping banks along with the surrounding grassland and arable countryside of this area are also good for butterflies preferring these types of lowland habitats. Sadly we weren’t going to see any of them today because of the weather. However, notable birds associated with the dyke’s marshy environs were those we desired: a pair of Great Reed Warblers at close quarters feeding young, with another in full song nearby, and both Reed and Sedge Warblers close to for direct comparison, a pair of Lesser Whitethroat showed well, also a Little Bittern. Overflying the area were groups of Eastern Greylag Geese, Black Storks, Great White Egrets and several Marsh Harriers quartering the fields.

Special birds within the vast extent of the drier arable areas are Rollers – including a pair guarding their telegraph pole sited nest box against two others! Many Rollers now use these purpose-built boxes and this has seen their population rise exponentially. Saker Falcons too nowadays use nest boxes erected atop high-voltage pylons, and we had a distant views of these large falcons. We had closer and better views of a pair of hovering Lesser Grey Shrikes. Villages here are adorned with nests of White Storks, now containing well-grown young. Again, these huge nests are built upon specially made metal cartwheel-like platforms fixed to the tops of telegraph poles.

In order not to waste precious holiday time and to maximize our observation opportunities, we ate our al fresco lunch in these damp conditions located at the reservoir at Bogacs just south of the Bukk. Here we spent the remainder of the afternoon very productively indeed, as the rain had now ceased, seeing such exotics as a flock of fence-sitting Bee-eaters, vivid Golden Orioles and a majestic Eastern Imperial Eagle and even a charming pair of displaying Turtle Doves, to name a few among a plethora of other brilliant birds.

4 © Naturetrek kiera

Butterflies of Hungary Tour Report

A group of graceful Spoonbills sifted their way along the water’s edge, where muddy margins provided feeding places for several waders: Ruffs, Common Sandpiper and black, summer-plumaged Spotted Redshank. Three Common Terns were unexpected as were two reeling Grasshopper Warblers, typically remaining unseen as was a similarly singing Savi’s Warbler. So, not such a bad day after all. When one door closes…….

Day 7 Monday 22nd June

Weather: Heavy rain throughout the night continued all morning, clearing by mid-afternoon giving warm, sunny spells. During the morning, following our extended breakfast time, our local guide organized a most instructive workshop looking at the group’s photographs, positively identifying those that were uncertain, covered field identification tips and explained some of the extensive conservation initiatives ongoing in Hungary, which everyone found helpful and interesting.

Following a rather filling ‘light’ lunch provided by the hotel, the weather began clearing. It was decided to risk journeying to the high plateau in search of some of the special butterflies found only at these higher elevations – around 900m above sea level. The weather held and several of our target species were duly encountered: Woodland Ringlet, Clouded Apollo and Purple-edged Copper. All are localized, rarer species in Hungary. Also new for our lists were Pearl-bordered and False Heath Fritillaries. So, once again the day was at least partly saved – luckily, as it is our final full day prior to our (reluctant) departure.

Day 8 Tuesday 23rd June

Weather: Overcast with intermittent showers. Following our final truly spoilt-for-choice breakfast, it was time to pack our worldly goods into the trailer and take our leave of our exceptional hosts at the ‘Nomad’. We began our unrushed journey via the M3 motorway and the new 30km long ring road which links directly to the airport.

Our return flight left on time and at baggage retrieval we bade our final goodbyes.

Summary: Our final trip list tallied an outstanding 90 species. These included many Europe-wide scarce, rare and/or declining butterflies which are happily still found in Hungary. The vast majority were either seen or photographed by the group. Certainly contributing towards this successful outcome was the way in which the group quickly gelled into a friendly, cooperative team effort. Well done, everyone.

Receive our e-newsletter

Join the Naturetrek e-mailing list and be the first to hear about new tours, additional departures and new dates, tour reports and special offers. Visit www.naturetrek.co.uk to sign up.

Butterflies of Hungary Tour Report

Species Lists

Note: Numbers fewer than 10 are enumerated. Numbers over 10 are represented by a unless otherwise shown.

Butterflies June Common name Scientific name 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 1 Swallowtail Papilio machaon 2 2 2 Clouded Apollo Parnassius mnemosyne 2 3 Black-veined White Aporia crataegi 4 Large White Pieris brassicae 5 5 Small White Artogeia rapae 6 Green-veined White Artogeia napi 2 7 Eastern Bath White Pontia edusa 2 1 8 Orange Tip Anthrocharis cardamines 2 2 9 Berger's Clouded Yellow Colias alfacariensis 3 10 Brimstone Gonepteryx rhamni 2 3 2 11 Wood White Leptidea sinapis 2 12 Sloe Hairstreak Satyrium acasiae 1 13 Ilex Hairstreak Satyrium ilicis 14 Blue-spot Hairstreak Satyrium spini 2 3 15 White-letter Hairstreak Strymonidia w-album 1 16 Black Hairstreak Satyrium pruni 5 17 Green Hairstreak Callophrys rubi 6 1 18 Small Copper Lycaena phlaeas 2 19 Large Copper Lycaena dispar 2 5 6 20 Scarce Copper Lycaena vigaureae 2 5 21 Purple-shot Copper Lycaena alciphron 4 1 1 22 Purple-edged Copper Lycaena hippothoe 1 23 Holly Blue Celastrina argiolus 5 6 24 Short-tailed Blue Everes argiades 25 Eastern Short-tailed Blue Everes decoloratus 4 3 6 26 Small Blue Cupido minimus 5 27 Green-underside Blue Glaucopsyche alexis 2 5 2 28 Alcon Blue Maculinea alcon 29 Large Blue Maculinea arion 2 30 Chequered Blue Scolitantides orion 1 31 Silver-studded Blue Plebejus argus 32 Idas Blue Plebejus idas 2 33 Reverdin's Blue Plebejus argyrognomon 1 1 34 Mazarine Blue Cyaniris semiargus 2 1 35 Turquoise Blue Plebicula dorylas 1 36 Adonis Blue Lysandra bellargus 5 1 37 Common Blue Polyommatus icarus 38 Brown Argus Atricia agestic 39 Mountain Argus Atricia artaxerxes 2 40 Purple Emperor Apatura iris 2 41 Lesser Purple Emperor Apatura ilia 5 5 3 42 Poplar Admiral Limenitis populi 3 3 43 White Admiral Limenitis camilla 2 2 44 Common Glider Neptis sappho 4 1

Butterflies of Hungary Tour Report

June Common name Scientific name 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 45 Hungarian Glider Neptis rivularis 4 46 Large Tortoiseshell Nymphalis polychloras 2 4 1 47 Peacock Inachis io 1 1 1 2 48 Painted Lady Vanessa cardui 49 Comma Polygonum c-album 3 5 50 Map Araschina levana 3 51 Cardinal Argynnis pandora 1 2 52 Silver-washed Fritillary Argynnis paphia 53 High Brown Fritillary Argynnis adippe 2 54 Dark Green Fritillary Mesoacidalia aglaja 55 Queen of Spain Fritillary Issoria lathonia 2 4 1 56 Twin-spot Fritillary Brenthis hecate 1 2 57 Marbled Fritillary Brenthis daphne 1 58 Lesser Marbled Fritillary Brenthis ino 4 3 59 Pearl-bordered Fritillary Clossiana euphrosyne 2 60 Small Pearl-bord Fritillary Clossiana selene 2 61 Weaver's (Violet) Fritillary Clossiana dia 4 1 62 Glanville Fritillary Melitaea cinxia 1 63 Spotted Fritillary Melitaea didyma 6 1 1 64 False Heath Fritillary Melitaea diamina 1 65 Heath Fritillary Mellicta athalia 66 Nickerl's Fritillary Mellicta aurelia 67 Assmann's Fritillary Mellicta britomartis 1 68 Marbled White Melanargia galathea 69 Woodland Grayling Hipparchia fagi 3 70 Great Banded Grayling Kanetisa circe 8 2 2 71 Woodland Ringlet Erebia medusa 6 72 Meadow Brown Maniola jurtina 2 73 Ringlet Aphantopus hyperantus 3 2 74 Small Heath Coenonympha pamphilus 75 Pearly Heath Coenonympha arcania 76 Chestnut Heath Coenonympha glycerion 77 Speckled Wood Pararge aegeri 1 78 Grizzled Skipper Pyrgus malvae sev 79 Oberthur's Grizzled Skipper Pyrgus armoricanus 4 80 Safflower Skipper Pyrgus carthami 6 81 Hungarian Skipper Spilalia orbifer 1 3 82 Dingy Skipper Erynnis tages 1 1 83 Chequered Skipper Carterocephalus palaemon 1 84 Essex Skipper Thymelicus lineola 2 85 Small Skipper Thymelicus flavus 86 Large Skipper Ochlodes venatus 3

Butterflies of Hungary Tour Report

June Common name Scientific name 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 Birds (h= heard only) 1 Great Crested Grebe Podiceps cristatus 4 2 Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo 3 Little Bittern Ixobrychus minutus 4 Great White Egret Egretta alba 5 5 Little Egret Egretta garzetta 1 6 Grey Heron Ardea cinerea 7 Spoonbill Platalea leucorodia 6 8 White Stork Ciconia ciconia 1 9 Black Stork Ciconia nigra 4 10 Eastern Greylag Goose Anser anser 11 Mallard Anas platyrhynchos 2 12 Marsh Harrier Circus aeruginosus 13 Sparrowhawk Accipiter nisus 1 2 1 1 14 Goshawk Accipiter gentillis 1m 1f 15 Common Buzzard Buteo buteo 16 Long-legged Buzzard Buteo rufinus 17 Honey Buzzard Pernis apivorus 2 2 4 2 18 Imperial Eagle Aquila heliaca 2 1 19 Saker Falcon Falco cherrug 2 1 20 Hobby Falco subbuteo 1 2 21 Common Kestrel Falco tinnunculus 2 22 Pheasant Phasianus colchicus 4 23 Common Quail Coturnix coturnix h h 2 h 24 Coot Fulica atra 2 1 25 Lapwing Vanellus vanellus 26 Ruff Philomachus pugnax 12 27 Black-tailed Godwit Limosa limosa 1 28 Spotted Redshank Tringa erythropus 2 29 Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos 1 30 Black-headed Gull Larus ridibundus 31 Yellow-legged Gull Larus cachinnans 32 Common Tern Sterna hirundo 3 33 Stock Dove Columba oenas 2 2 2 34 Wood Pigeon Columba palumbus 1 2 1 3 35 Collared Dove Streptopelia decaocto 36 Turtle Dove Streptopelia turtur h 6 h 37 Cuckoo Cuculus canorus h 1 2 2 h 1 38 Swift Apus apus 4 1 39 Kingfisher Alcedo atthis 1 40 Hoopoe Upupa epops h 1 41 Bee-eater Merops apiaster 18 42 Roller Coracias garrulus 6 43 Grey-headed Woodpecker Picus canus 1 h 44 Green Woodpecker Picus viridis 1 1 h 45 Syrian Woodpecker Dendrocopos syriacus 1 1 2 1 46 Great-spotted Woodpecker Dendrocopos major sev 1 1 1 1 47 Middle-spotted Woodpecker Dendrocopos medius 1 1 nest/yo. 1 1 48 Lesser-spotted Woodpecker Dendrocopos minor 1 1 49 Wryneck Jynx torquilla 1 h

Butterflies of Hungary Tour Report

June Common name Scientific name 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 50 Skylark Alauda arvensis 2 51 Crested Lark Galerida cristata 1 52 Sand Martin Riparia riparia 2 7 53 House Martin Delichon urbica 54 Swallow Hirundo rustica 55 Tree Pipit Anthus trivialis 1 3 56 White Wagtail Motacilla alba 57 Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea 58 Blue-headed Wagtail Motacilla flava flava 59 Nightingale Luscinia megarhynchos 1 1 60 Robin Erithacus rubecula 2 2 5 1 61 Stonechat Saxicola torquata 1 2 62 Black Redstart Phoenicurus ochruros 63 Northern Wheatear Oenanthe oenanthe 64 Blackbird Turdus merula 65 Song Thrush Turdus philomelos 66 Mistle Thrush Turdus viscivorus 2 2 4 67 Grasshopper Warbler Locustella naevia 2h 68 River Warbler Locustella fluviatilis h 69 Savi’s Warbler Locustella luscinioides 1 70 Reed Warbler Acrocephalus scirpaceus 1 71 Great Reed Warbler Acrocephalus arundinaceus 2 2 3 72 Sedge warbler Acrocephalus schoenobaenus 73 Icterine Warbler Hippolais icterina h 74 Garden warbler Sylvia borin h 1 75 Common Whitethroat Sylvia communis 1 2 76 Lesser Whitethroat Sylvia curruca 2 1 2 77 Barred Warbler Sylvia nisoria 2 3 78 Blackcap Sylvia atricapilla 79 Wood Warbler Phylloscopus sibilatrix h 80 Chiffchaff Phylloscopus collybita 81 Goldcrest Regulus regulus 1 82 Spotted Flycatcher Muscicapa striata 2 3 3 2 83 Collared Flycatcher Ficedula albicollis 1 3 1 84 Long-tailed Tit Aegithalos caudatus 85 Penduline Tit Remiz pendulinus 1 86 Marsh Tit Poecile palustris 1 87 Coal Tit Periparus ater h 88 Great Tit Parus major 89 Blue Tit Cyanistes caeruleus 90 Nuthatch Sitta europaea 91 Wren Troglodytes troglodytes 1 1 92 Lesser Grey Shrike Lanius minor 1 3 93 Red-backed Shrike Lanius collurio 94 Jay Garrulus glandarius 2 95 Magpie Pica pica 96 Hooded Crow Corvus corone cornix 97 Jackdaw Corvus monedula 98 Raven Corvus corax 2 2 2 99 Golden Oriole Oriolus oriolus 100 Starling Sturnus vulgaris

Butterflies of Hungary Tour Report

June Common name Scientific name 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 101 House Sparrow Passer domesticus 102 Tree Sparrow Passer montanus 103 Chaffinch Fringilla coelebs 104 Serin Serinus serinus 1 3 105 Linnet Acanthis cannabina 2 106 Goldfinch Carduelis carduelis 107 Greenfinch Carduelis chloris 108 Hawfinch Coccothraustes coccothraustes 300+ 109 Corn Bunting Miliaria calandra 2 2 110 Yellowhammer Emberiza citrinella 111 Rock Bunting Emberiza cia 1 112 Reed Bunting Emberiza schoeniclus 1 1

Dragonflies 1 Beautiful Demoiselle Calopteryx virgo 2 White-legged Damselfly Platycnemis pennipes 3 Blue-tailed Damselfly Ischnura elegans 4 Azure Damselfly Coenagrion puella 5 Large Red Damselfly Pyrrhosoma nymphula 6 Southern Hawker Aeshna cyanea 7 Broad-bodied Chaser Libellula depressa 8 Keeled Skimmer Orthetrum coerulescens 9 Black-tailed Skimmer Orthetrum cancellatum

Naturetrek Facebook

We are delighted to launch the Naturetrek Facebook page so that participants of Naturetrek tours can remain in touch after the holiday and share photos, comments and future travel plans.

Setting up a personal profile at www.facebook.com is quick, free and easy. The Naturetrek Facebook page is now live; do please pay us a visit!