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Home , Absolute (perfumery), Rose oil

Jurnal ILMU DASAR, Vol.20 No. 2, Juli 2019 : 67-74 67

Essential Oil Composition of Flowers from Karangpring Village Jember District Extracted by and Enfleurage Komposisi Minyak Atsiri Bunga Mawar dari Desa Karangpring Kabupaten Jember yang diekstrak melalui Distilasi dan Enfleurasi Ika Oktavianawati1*), Nanda Letisya1, Priscillia Citra1, Dwi Purwita Utari1, I Nyoman Adi Winata1, Wuryanti Handayani1, Ari Satya Nugraha2 1Dept. Chemistry, Faculty of Mathematics and Natural Sciences, University of Jember 2Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Jember *E-mail: [email protected] ABSTRACT Karangpring is one tourist destination villages in Jember district which is popular with beautiful large rose field areas. Therefore, this area grows to be a leading producer of rose flowers in Jember district. However, the bulky presence of these flowers made its price becomes lower in regular days. Local community only uses and sells these fresh flowers as the flower for funeral. The rose flower has a great potency to be explored as a source of rose production. To date, there is no previous research on studying rose flowers from Karangpring village for its potency on the essential oil production. In this research, rose flowers were subjected to be extracted of its essential oil using two extraction methods, distillation, and enfleurage. Hydrodistillation resulted two phases of distillates, above part formed a cloudy white phase as a normal essential oil extracted from plants, and the lower phase was an aqueous phase containing rose hydrosols. Both phases of these condensates were analyzed using GCMS. Data explained that above phase, with a yield oil of 0.07%, only contains long-chain hydrocarbons such as n-nonadecane, n-heptadecane, 9-nonadecene, and eicosane, while the lower phase only contains 2-phenylethyl . On the other hand, enfleurage of fresh rose flowers resulted in 0.06% oil yield. GCMS analysis of this oil shows that 2-phenylethyl alcohol, , and phenylacetic acid are three major compounds which take more than 85% of total rose . The results show that enfleurage is a better method for extracting in better quality than using the distillation method, in term of the variety of volatile components. Meanwhile, hydrodistillation is still benefiting from producing that is qualified as an industrial additive agent for food and cosmetic productions or even a new potent of agromedicine products. Keywords: rose, rose oil, rose water, rose absolute, distillation, enfleurage. INTRODUCTION from rose flowers which attracts the attention of the world is the production of rose Rose flower has an economic and social value oil,known as rose otto, in flavor and fragrance in the world, especially the Indonesian industry (Kovats, 1987). Since rose oil is one community. Some communities regularly use of the most expensive essential oil in the world the flower as cut for many special events, market today, we proposed the way on the such as birthday and wedding parties, also for diversification product of rose flower as funeral and cemetery flowers. Karangpring essential oil production in this research village is a leading producer and supplier for (Agaoglu, 2000; Kovacheva et al. 2010). rose flowers in Jember district (Derap Desa, The main flavor component on the scent of 2010; Arifin, 2017b). Local communities in   Karangpring village frequently use rose rose flowers are -damascone and - damascenone (Pal, 2013). Nevertheless, it is flowers only as formal flowers for cemetery also known that characteristic odor of rose and funeral aim. Some also produce healthy flowers came from 2-phenylethyl alcohol labeled juice from rose flowers, or even as rose which being a principal component in rose candies, teas, and crackers (Arifin, 2017a). Others also use rose water in cooking as a water (Watanabe et al. 2001; Sakai et al. 2007; natural coloring agent (Saati et al. 2011), Sakai et al. 2008; Kumar et al. 2014; Gunes, 2005; Hirata et al. 2016). Previous researches flavoring agents on desserts and many meat explained that bioactive molecule of 2- dishes (Karizaki et al. 2016; Alalwan et al. phenylethyl alcohol inside rose flowers is in 2017). However, another valuable product

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the form of 2-phenylethyl-D-glucopyranoside dimethyl ketone, acetaldehyde, sulfides, (Eikani et al. 2005; Watanabe et al. 2002). ammonia and methanol (Soe’eib et al. 2016; However, most publications only mention the Muchtar et al. 2013; Yulianingsih et al. 2007; finding on aglycon part of it, i.e. 2- Oktavianawati et al. 2017). phenylethylalcohol. It was assumed that instead Various rose depending on the way of the presence of -glucosidase inside the they were extracted, have their names. Rose oil plant (Watanabe et al. 2001; Sakai et al. 2008), is normally obtained from the upper phase of applying various pretreatment and extraction distillate from steam, steam-water, and methods could hydrolyze the glycoside as well hydrodistillation methods. Rose is to produce 2-phenylethyl alcohol. obtained by extraction of rose flowers Some efforts have been made to and has a smooth like semi-solid performance, rose oil with higher quality, meaning that it has while rose absolute is derived from rose flower a high content of rose alcohol, but low or even extraction using as solvent. Rose water free of ester, higher alkanes, and fat (Eikani et is collected from the lower phase of distillate al. 2005). Various methods to extract rose oil which also contains a valuable oxygenated are distillation (Najem et al. 2011; Hosni et al. compound which is responsible for the great 2010; Agarwal et al. 2005), solvent extraction odor of rose flowers (Ulusoy et al. 2009). (Rusanov et al. 2011; Watanabe et al. 2001; To date, there was no previous Kurkeuoglu and Baser, 2003), enfleurage investigation on exploring essential oil from (Yulianingsih et al. 2007), and supercritical rose flowers in Jember district. Then, this CO2 (Reverchon et al. 1997). Kumar et current paper will discuss the potency of rose al.(2016) have applied distillation of Damask essential oil production and compare the oil rose flowers with saline water containing 75 g quality, in terms of GCM analysis data, NaCl/kg of rose flowers to increase about 42% because of applying different extraction higher of rose oil content compared to methods. distillation in water only. But there is a special METHODS consideration on applying this method in a significant scale process due to the Materials adverseeffect of salt on damaging steel Fresh rose flowers were obtained from a rose farmer apparatus in a longer period. community, Sumber Mawar, in Karangpring village, Jember district, from May to July 2018. Rose Most of all, the use of hydrodistillation in plantsthat were used in this research has been kinds of literature is quite widespread for identified by Lembaga Ilmu Pengetahuan Indonesia extracting rose oil from fresh rose flowers. It (Indonesian Institute of Sciences) Balai Konservasi has been known that hydrodistillation product Tumbuhan Kebun Raya Purwodadi as Rosa hybrida market value is higher than other product from Hort. different extraction methods, by the fact that Extraction Procedures the total number of essential oil components in Hydrodistillation hydrodistillation is over (Pal 2013). Research The whole flower of roses was used in new by Karmous et al. (2004) mentioned that conditions and extracted by hydrodistillation method hydrodistillation has a drawback that the effect using a Clevenger apparatus for 4 hours. The of boiling floral material and water at the same condensate formed two phases of distillate. The time could lead a light burned odor in the final upper phase was collected as rose oil, while the product of essential oil. Since hydrodistillation lower phase was rose water. Rose oil was subjected is also quite easy and inexpensive, then this to further analysis using GCMS. Rose water was extracted using diethyl ether to obtain rose concrete method became economical for essential oil and then was run for GCMS analysis as well. production and suitable to be applied to the local community as a kind of home industry. Enfleurage Chasis (50x50x7) was smeared with 500 grams of Enfleurage also becomes a popular shortening (white butter). 200 grams of fresh rose extraction method to produce absolutely flowers were placed on the top of fat from because it applies a low temperature for shortening for five days. The flowers were changed extraction. Hence, enfleurage prevents the in every 24 hours and substituted with the new fresh hydrolysis of essential oil component during one in a similar weight. After five days, the fat extraction that can be occurred at high containing essential oil was extracted using alcohol temperature process, and creates an unpleasant in a ratio of 2:1. Then the mixture was kept in 0-5C odour because of the presence of acetic acid, during 24 hours. Filtration of this mixture results inpomade and extrait. Extrait was evaporated for its Jurnal ILMU DASAR, Vol.20 No. 2, Juli 2019 : 67-74 69

alcohol content which then produced a rose absolute. also known as stereoptanes, including n- Rose absolute was also analyzed for its volatile nonadecane, n-heptadecane, 9-nonadecene, and content using GCMS. eicosane. In this term, the form of rose oil as a Identification of Volatile Components wax-like material is possibly originating from Volatile compounds of the essential oil extracts were the protective coatings of flowers which then analyzed by GCMS-QP2010S Shimadzu with Rtx 5 makes the fat hardens and solidifies at room MS column (length 30 m; ID 0.25 m; film 0.25 um), temperature (Sterrett 1962). The presence of Helium gas as a carrier, EI 70 Ev. Column oven this stearopten guarantees the durability of the temp.70C, injector temp. 300C, pressure 12 kPa, total flow 27.3 mL/min, column flow 0.49 mL/min, scent (Dobreva et al. 2013). ion source temp. 250C, interface temp.305C, Table 1. Chemical components in rose oil from solvent cut time 3 min, detector gain +0.00 kV. MS Karangpring rose flowers table, start time 3.20 min, end time 70 min, scan Retention speed 1250, event time 0.50 sec. The constituents of No Compound Names % the oils were identified based on their chromatogram time and by comparing their mass spectral data with those 1 33.509 9-nonadecene 11.64 from Wiley mass spectral database. 2 34.167 n-heptadecane 26.52 3 34.419 7-hexadecyne 1.00 RESULTS AND DISCUSSION 4 35.426 1-octadecene 0.59 5 35.708 Z-7-hexadecene 0.09 Hydrodistillation is a kind of distillation 6 37.427 10-heneicosene 1.59 method that boils the sample together with 7 38.292 n-nonadecane 38.52 water at the same time. Water molecules will trans-1,4- 8 38.476 0.23 diffuse into plant tissues and carry out essential dihydroxycyclohexane oil from oil glands to evaporate and condense. 9 41.502 E-5-octadecene 4.43 The oil will naturally be separated from the 10 41.735 eicosane 10.81 aqueous phase in the distillate. In this current 11 43.877 stearaldehyde 1.40 research, the expected rose oil from 12 45.546 tridecanaldehyde 0.08 hydrodistillation method was presented in the 13 48.178 n-hexatriacontane 2.84 14 50.982 octadecyl chloride 0.16 above phase of distillate and was separated from rose water to yield 0.07% oil. The This result research was relevant with the performance of this rose oil was in semisolid result of Moein et al. (2010) mentioning that form with a white transparent waxy look when Rosa damascena Mill. from South of Iran it was cooled at 0-5C or even at room contains nonadecane, heneicosane, temperature. However, the odor of this rose oil docosaneand 9-nonadecene in a total amount of does not represent the fragrance of rose 92.06% of the rose oil, while the rest comprises flowers. and germacrene-D. Our result showed a relative big different on the composition of rose essential oil from other research that also used hydrodistillation to extract rose oil. Babu et al. (2002) confirmed that damask rose oil from the western Himalayas contains rose (such as citronellol, , and ) up to 68.13% and long-chain hydrocarbons including nonadecane, heptadecane, 9-eicosene, and docosane for about 21.23% of the total oil. Figure 1. A chromatogram of rose oil from Dobreva et al. (2013) also enlighten the major hydrodistillation method volatile contents of three genotypes of oil- Chromatogram of this rose oil can be seen bearing roses in Kazanluk are mostly consist of in Figure 1, while the name list of those citronellol, geraniol, nerol and nonadecane. volatile compounds can be seen Table 1. Phenylethyl alcohol, as a marker compound of GCMS analysis showed that this rose oil only rose flower, is also obtained from this research contains saturated and unsaturated aliphatic though , in trace quantity, 0.26-1.31% of total long chain hydrocarbon compounds, which is rose oil since it is a polar compound and more soluble in water.

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Figure 2. A chromatogram of rose water Figure 3. A chromatogram of rose absolute extracted with diethyl ether from five days enfleurage of fresh rose flowers. It has been discussed before that upper phase of distillate, rose oil, contains only Enfleurage method is chosen as an aliphatic hydrocarbons, while the lower phase alternative method to extract essential oil from only contains one polar and soluble compound fresh rose flowers instead of hydrodistillation. in water, 2-phenylethyl alcohol (see Enfleurage applies cold fat as an adsorbent of chromatogram in Figure 2). This marker volatile compounds deliberated by flowers. compound of rose oil was obtained when the This research used a white butter or shortening lower distillate, as we knowas a hydrosol, was as an adsorbent. extracted using diethyl ether.Evaporation of Table 2. Chemical components of rose absolute diethyl ether resulted in a clear colorless liquid from enfleurage of fresh rose flowers form of rose concrete. The odor of this extract represents the right fragrance of rose flowers Retention No. Compound Names % with a pleasant odour. In our research, we do time not find any other volatile compounds that 1 3.448 2-propenoic acid 0.96 could be extracted from this rose water, like 2 3.889 glycolamide 3.56 other research which are conducted by 3 13.857 Phenylethyl alcohol 40.48 4 17.948 phenylacetic acid 12.91 Kurkeuoglu & Baser (2003), Eikani et al 5 20.789 eugenol 35.16 (2005),Najem et al (2011), Agarwal et al 6 22.793 -caryophillene 5.21 (2003) and Babu et al (2002), using various 7 23.778 -selinene 0.63 ofn-hexane, n-butylacetate,pentane, 8 28.541 9-heptadecanone 1.09 and dichloromethane, respectively, to isolate citronellol, geraniol, nerol, and Enfleurage of fresh rose flowers for five eugenol, instead of obtaining 2-phenylethyl days resulted in a0.06% oil yield with ‘a light alcohol. yellow liquid majorly containing 2-phenylethyl This current research confirmed that alcohol, eugenol and phenylacetic acid (Figure hydrodistillation method is not a suitable 3 and Table 2). Research of Yulianingsih et al. method to extract the true rose oil since it does (2007) shows that seven days enfleurage on not contains any marker compound of rose similar adsorbent, i.e white butter, of Middle flower, i.e 2-phenylethyl alcohol, or even any Java red roses brings about 0.239% of rose other highly polar and water-soluble absolute containing 2-phenylethyl alcohol, compound, while the rose water contains. citronellol, geraniol, nerol and also eugenol. Thus, the distillation method could be chosen Although that we did not obtain any citronellol, as the right method to produce valuable rose geraniol and nerol in our rose oil, we found that water or hydrosol because of a big content of it also contains phenylacetic acid. Although 2-phenylethyl alcohol. This rose hydrosol was Watanabe et al. (2002) have explained that one proven to be a safe material or additive in way of biogenesis of 2-phenylethyl alcohol aromatherapy, cosmetics, andflavoring agents (route c) was from phenylacetic acid since it did not contain any lipophilic intermedietthe presence of phenylacetic acid in compounds that could interact and react with this research result was mostly predicted to body tissues in topical application method became from the oxidation of 2-phenylethyl (Adams et al. 2005). alcohol during enfluerage process. The Jurnal ILMU DASAR, Vol.20 No. 2, Juli 2019 : 67-74 71

presence of natural oxidators such as rose Beside, rose water showed a mature content of oxides and acids in enfleurage and defleurage rose flower marker compound, 2-phenylethyl process could influence the stability of 2- alcohol, making this aromatic water to be a phenylethyl alcohol. Moreover, possibility of precious candidate of flavor and aromatherapy the presence of microbes inside chassis and the agent obtaining from the distillation process. fat, such as Acetobacter acetic, will oxidize 2- phenylethyl alcohol into corresponding acid ACKNOWLEDGEMENT and aldehyde (Gandolfi et al. 2004). We would like to acknowledge DRPM and the Nevertheless, the rose absolute University of Jember for providing research performance from enfleurage is quite and community engagement grant in 2017. We impressive with a light yellow color oil and also thankful to rose farmer community in pleasant odor effect. There was no fat left from Karangpring village, Jember district, for adsorbent to be the presence in the rose supplying the sample for research. absolute, similar to another enfleurage we have done previously for REFERENCES (Oktavianawati et al. 2017). This Adams, T.B., Cohen, S.M., Doull, J., Feron, enfleuragealso has been applied practically on V.J., Goodman, J.I., Marnett, L.J., Munro, producing rose absolute to local community in I.C., Portoghese, P.S., Smith, R.L., Karangpring village, where those rose flowers Waddell, W.J., Wagner, B.M. 2005. The came from. Moreover, enfleurage pomade or FEMA GRAS Assessment of Phenylethyl white butter residue has been extended to be Alcohol, Aldehyde, Acid, and Related the main material of soap making as well Acetals and Esters Used as Flavor (Oktavianawati et al. 2018). Ingredients. Food and Chemical The use of hydrodistillation will result in a Toxicology. 43: 1179-1206. big problem on the extraction of the valuable Agaoglu, Y.S. 2000. Rose Oil Industry and the oxygenated compound, 2-phenylethyl alcohol, Production of Oil Rose (Rosa damascene since it can pass into solution in rose water for Mill.) in Turkey. Biotechnology and over than two-thirds of the oil, while the rose Biotechnological Equipment.14(2): 8-15. oil only contains less than one-third (Eikani et Agarwal, S.G., Gupta, A., Kapahi, B.K., al. 2005). While the use of enfleurage on Baleshwar, Thappa, R.K., and Suri, O.P. extracting high quality of rose absolute can be 2003. Chemical Composition of Rose performed successfully. However, enfleurage Water Volatiles. Journal of Essential Oil and defleurage processes require a big effort on Research.17(3): 265-267. the preparation, extraction and purification of Alalwan, T.A., Mandeel, Q.A., Al-Sarhani, L. fragrance components from the adsorbent. 2017. Traditional Plant-Based Foods and Overall, hydro distillation and enfleurage Beverages in Bahrain. Journal of Ethnic are compatible methods to obtain valuable Foods.4: 274-283. fragrance compounds depend on our need, in Arifin, S. 2017. Sirup dan The menjadi Solusi the form of rose water or absolute. However, in Petani Bunga Mawar. Indikator Online. order to be applied as home industry of rose oil 22 Agustus 2017. from hydrodistillation is entirely not http://indikatoronline.com/2017/08/22/sirup economical since it only produces low oil -dan-teh-menjadi-solusi-petani-bunga- recovery yield from fresh rose flowers. mawar/. CONCLUSION Arifin, S. 2017. Wisata Bunga Mawar di Jember. Indikator Online. 22 Agustus 2017. Bulky amount of rose flowers in Karangpring http://indikatoronline.com/2017/08/22/wisa village can be a valuable natural resource on ta-bunga-mawar-du-jember/. producing rose essential oi, and aromatic rose Babu, K.G.D., Singh, B., Joshi, V.P., Singh, V. water depend on the extraction method to use. 2002. Essential Oil Composition of Damask Rose oil is better extracted using enfleurage of Rose (Rosa damascena Mill.) Distilled fresh rose flowers than using hydrodistillation Under Different Pressures and process by showing diverse compound types in Temperatures. Flavour and Fragrance it, from rose alcohols into stearoptenes. This Journal.17: 136-140. rose absolute also has a more pleasant odor like Derap Desa. 2010. Desa Karangpring the true fragrance of rose flowers than rose oil. Kecamatan Sukorambi. Mawar

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Journal homepage: https://jurnal.unej.ac.id/index.php/JID 74 Essential Oil Composition of Rose Flowers … (Oktavianawati, dkk)