October 11-October 24, 2013 l #120 l Price 1€

Public art: Family ties: Limaj’s Prishtina What did statue get clout linked to wrong about ’s son’s university Insight first president? page 2 scholarship. page 4 Stiff competition could spoil mayor’s quest for Isa’s a third term burden Page 7

The voices l PI Guide: l Culture: Women’s Edith Durham of Croatia’s market offers revisited. turbulent bounty. PAGE 12 page 15 history. page 10 2 n October 11-October 24, 2013 n Prishtina Insight October 11-October 24, 2013 n Prishtina Insight n 3

PageTwo E: [email protected] / T: +381 (0)38 60 40 70 / W: www.rikon-ks.com MP 4000 MP 2510 / 3010 A president Print/Copy/Scan/Fax Print/Copy/Scan/Fax 40 ppm 25 / 35 ppm immortalized from the editor A4 / A3 A4 / A3 Unveiled in late September, the statute of former President Why the Strong Party could matter ARDF ARDF Ibrahim , who died in 2006, makes up a sculptural quartet with the likenesses of former Kosovo Liberation Duplex Duplex Army commander , Albanian hero If Facebook ‘likes’ equalled it. Given the constant drone Finisher Finisher Gjergj Kastriot Skenderbeu and nun Mother votes, Visar Afiraj would about corruption, nepotism Teresa. , the current Mayor of stand a good chance of being and outlandish uses of pub- Network Network Prishtina, describes the statue as “an icon the next mayor of Prishtina. lic money, the Strong Party 40000 kopje garancion 20000 kopje garancion of Kosovo’s independence” and the former Arifaj is the candidate of Par- brought a refreshingly 900.00€ 450.00€ president as “a visionary leader; a politician tia e Forte - the Strong Party. different approach to engag- who won political battles by unfolding The Strong Party is a parody. ing the public about very his ideas.” Mustafa is also the leader of But if the 32,000 people serious problems. the Democratic League of Kosovo (also who have clicked ‘like’ on The idea isn’t original. known as the LDK), a party established their Facebook page voted, In the Icelandic capital, by Rugova in 1989. But whether the the party could have very Reykjavik, the mayor and six statue gets it right, is another question. real power. In 2009, only city council members belong Prishtina Insight spoke to people who about 70,000 people voted to the satirical Best Party - knew Rugova, as well as artists and in Prishtina. Isa Mustafa’s elected in 2010 in the wake Në çmime janë të përfshira të gjitha taksat thinkers to get their take on the de- crushing victory in Kosovo’s of the country’s devastating piction of the former president. capital required fewer than financial crisis. Its most — Eldita Tarani 39,000 votes. important promise The chances was to break all its of Afiraj actually promises. winning the race, The Strong Head and face: Rugova was though, seem Party is trying to known for walking with his head down, slim. But what walk a fine line, constantly thinking and pondering. Nate. The statue doesn’t quite get that right. does seem very Tabak acting silly while likely is that the @birn.eu.com still insisting that it

Strong Party will Editor-in-Chief can do the busi- The scarf: Looks like a glorified win seats on the ness of govern- collar, rather than Rugova’s trademark municipal assem- ment - including flat-folded neckpiece. The loosely bly. The assembly has 51 balancing the budget. The folded neckpieces are characteristic of glorified statues across the region seats, making the threshold question for the party will (see: certain statues of benevolent Yu- for winning one quite low. be what to do with its power goslav dictator Josip Broz Tito, or KLA If this does happen, the should it win any seats in the freedom fighters Agim Ramadani and question is, what will voters election. It won’t be an easy Zahir Pajaziti). be getting? one to answer. The Strong Party takes the worst qualities of Koso- Prishtina Insight is The coat: The coat makes Rugova’s chest look bigger, and his figure fuller, vo’s politicians and satirical- designed by Trembelat, a than it actually was. ly celebrates them. Recently, company owned by Strong the party made a big show Party leaders Visar Afiraj and of proposing to construct a Yll Rugova. Trembelat has Hands: The position of Rugova’s mayor’s mansion modelled suspended working on the hand, as he if is predicating something on the White House. A party newspaper for the duration of from above, seems very out of charac- member registered a com- the local election campaign ter. In fact, he was known for more subdued gestures. pany for the sole purpose as part of an agreement with of bidding on the tender for Prishtina Insight.

The walk: Artists with knowledge of Rugova’s life and work suggest that the statue would have been more appropriate if Rugova was portrayed Prishtina Balkan Investigative Reporting Network • walking. Insight Mensa e Studenteve, first floor, 10000, Prishtina, Kosovo • Phone: +381 (0) 38 24 33 58 • Editor- Statue Stats in-chief: Nate Tabak • Editorial staff: Jeta Xharra, Marcus Tanner, Height - 4.20 meters Petrit Collaku, Parim Olluri and Flutura Kusari • Design: Trembelat • Weight – approximately 1 ton Prishtina Insight is supported by the Kosovo Foundation for Open Material – approximately 1200 kg of bronze Society, Norwegian Embassy, Rockefeller Brothers Fund and the Technology – Mud and wax Craftwork – 15 days Balkan Investigative Reporting Network. 4 n October 11-October 24, 2013 n Prishtina Insight October 11-October 24, 2013 n Prishtina Insight n 5 Nation Family ties Briefly

Kosovo local polls “vital for EU Integration.” European integra- tion minister Vlora Citaku said that ‘Sympathy’ next month’s local elections will be “crucial” for Kosovo’s ambitions to move closer to EU membership. “We will be analysed with a mag- nifying glass. They [the EU] won’t want to have a mediocre electoral for Limaj A process, they will want to see an exemplary process,” Citaku told lawmakers from the parliamentary Election commission on EU integration on medicine Monday. For the first time, the EU is 3:20 going to deploy over 100 observers for the local elections which will The duration of campaign song in honor of the factored be held in the northern Serb-run Mayor of , Pal Lekaj. Performed by Bushi area as well as the rest of Kosovo. Sisters, the tune celebrates Lekaj’s choice of The polls come ahead of . the profession, medicine. “Already as a youngster start of talks about a Stabilisation you chose the strongest weapon against - and Association Agreement, SAA you chose the school of Medicine… Let’s move our : A reputation with a long reach. Photo/Petrit Rrahmani between the EU and Kosovo. In country forward-with the Alliance we’re going to into son’s August, Kosovo established a top- win. We have our mayor in Gjakova-we’re going to Serbs and suspected Malisevo; two years later he was level team which will negotiate the continue with Dr. Pal.” Who is Fatmir Limaj? of collaborating with Belgrade’s charged with alleged involve- SAA, a document which sees the forces during the war. ment in organised crime and cor- would-be EU member reforming its Former But in November 2005, he ruption at the transport ministry. legislation in an attempt to meet commander Fatmir Limaj went was acquitted, and returned Meanwhile in the summer of Brussels' standards. scholarship into politics when the 1990s home to a hero’s welcome with 2011, Limaj and nine former KLA On Your Side conflict ended, but his career street celebrations in the capital. comrades were also charged Serbian politicians permitted has been hit by allegations of war There was a retrial at The with war crimes against civilians to travel to Kosovo. Kosovo and A foundation bent its rules to pay crimes and corruption. Hague in 2007, held after anoth- and prisoners of war, accused of Serbia’s prime ministers resolved a Uncovered manhole Limaj, now 42, was born the er Kosovo Albanian, Beqa Beqaj, abusing Serb and Albanian civil- row over Belgrade politicians’ de- US university fees for the influential village of Banja, near Malisheve was convicted of intimidating ians and Serbian military pris- mand to visit their former province on Agim Ramadani in central Kosovo, but his career witnesses, but again Limaj was oners and police officers who ahead of local polls which threat- politician’s son, an indictment says in politics began as a member of cleared. were held in an improvised KLA ened a deal to normalise relations. Whether it’s a pothole that has a football fan club in the capital, The former guerrilla was de- detention centre in the village of Premiers Hashim Thaci and Ivica not been filled in years or a street where his family moved in 1979. feated twice in his attempt to Klecka. Dacic agreed in Brussels on Mon- light that never seems to turn on, By Salihi port the development of the next generation of lead- Since then, life has taken become mayor of , but in Limaj and the other defend- day that all Serbian politicians will we want to know about it. Send ers with a digital vision for Kosovo”. Central to that is him from the football stadium to general elections in 2007, he re- ants were initially acquitted of B be allowed to go to Kosovo during your tips to nate.tabak@birn. Things were going well for Fatmir Limaj in 2009. The the foundation’s scholarship programme, which has guerrilla warfare and from par- ceived the second-largest num- the charges last year after the the election campaign ahead of eu.com, and we’ll get on the case. public held him in high esteem. He had been acquitted helped more than 100 students pay for their univer- liament to the courtroom, where ber of votes after Hashim Thaci, judges in the case ruled that the the municipal polls next month. of war crimes charges at the Hague two years earlier sity education since 2009. the former guerrilla leader was the KLA’s former political chief. statements and diaries of the "We agreed to set up a mechanism What’s the problem: A rectan- was making good as a public servant, paving his share Officially, at least, the IPKO Foundation evaluates acquitted in his latest trial in Thaci then appointed Limaj key witness, Klecka guard Agim that will allow unhindered visits gular manhole covering on of roads at the Minister of Transport and Communi- university scholarship applications blindly. In order to September. transport minister - but his polit- Zogaj, known as ‘Witness X’, of Serbian officials to Kosovo," a well-heeled part of Agim cations. be eligible, students must be entering their final year In 2003, the the International ical ascent would soon be hit by were inadmissible. Dacic said after their meeting late Ramadani street, across from The good fortune extended to his son, Durim, who of studies at an accredited Kosovo university. Criminal Tribunal for the Former more indictments. But after a prosecution ap- Monday. the Orthodox Church is miss- was accepted into American University, a private in- Durim Limaj, however, did not meet these basic Yugoslavia, ICTY, charged Limaj, In April 2010, the EU rule-of- peal, Zogaj’s evidence was read- ing, exposing 1.5 meter hole. It stitution in Washington. Footing the bill of $51,243 for requirements. He had not yet begun his university alongside ex-KLA fighters Isak law mission in Kosovo, EULEX, mitted and the case was sent for Sharp fall in jobless rate doubt- may not sound very deep, but that first year: Kosovo’s IPKO Foundation. studies, and the school he was going to attend was Musliu and , with raided his apartment in Pristi- a retrial. He was acquitted again ed. Kosovo’s official unemploy- we reckon that falling in could KEDS. He reasoned that According to a sealed indictment that accuses not accredited in Kosovo. The size of the scholarship committing war crimes against na and his house in the town of in September. ment rate has fallen to 31 per cent, cause very serious injuries, the rectangular shape of Limaj of engaging in corruption during his time as was also exceptional. The most expensive university according to the country's statistic especially to older people. the manhole indicated that minister, the foundation bypassed its own selection in the country, the American University of Kosovo, agency. Some experts in Kosovo Unfortunately this is a very big power cables were below. procedures and criteria to grant the scholarship to the currently costs 6,300 euro per year. [had] gotten himself into a US university and for us, The prosecutor suggested, however, that there have dismissed data from the problem in Prishtina, and one KED spokesperson Guri son of the powerful member of the Democratic Party The IPKO Foundation declined to discuss Durim that was important,” Ismaili said. was a conflict because Limaj’s ministry dealt with statistics agency last week, which that gets very little attention. Shkodra told Prishtina In- of Kosovo, PDK. Limaj’s scholarship with Prishtina Insight. A EULEX He added that Durim Limaj had performed well telecommunications issues. Ismaili, who said he said the unemployment rate had sight, “The hole in the photo The indictment, filed by a prosecutor from the EU prosecutor quizzed Akan Ismaili, Kosovo’s current in the Test of English as a Foreign Language, TOEFL, had met Limaj as IPKO’s CEO, countered that the fallen by 4.2 per cent to 30.9 per How long has it been like this: is not KEDS property and rule-of-law mission, EULEX, does not accuse the foun- ambassador to the US, about the scholarship in 2011. exam and the Scholastic Aptitude Test, SAT. company, had no “dependency” on the ministry cent since May, when the last offi- More than two months replacement or regulation dation of doing anything illegal. Instead, prosecutor At one point, the prosecutor asked: “So the idea since the establishment of the Telecom Regulato- C In 2009, Ismaili served on the foundation’s board and cial analysis was conducted. Lumir of such facilities are not un- Johannes Pickert cites the scholarship as an example was also the CEO of IPKO. was to give something back to Fatmir Limaj?” Ismai- ry Authority. Abdixhiku, director of the Riinvest What’s being done: Nothing. der KEDS responsibility.” We of the “the influence which Fatmir Limaj and the Limaj Ismaili, who did not respond to Prishtina Insight’s li responded: “Absolutely.” Contacted by Prishtina Insight, Durim Limaj Institute called the findings of the contacted once again. family have enjoyed and still enjoy in Kosovo society”. questions, told the prosecutor that Limaj’s application Nevertheless, Ismaili insists that the foundation confirmed that he had applied for the IPKO Foun- Kosovo Agency for Statistics as Who’s responsible:That’s He insisted that it was KEDS The IPKO Foundation is independent of the tele- was hand-delivered, according to the indictment. He would also have made an exception for an “average dation’s scholarship in 2009 both through the on- “scandalous and a miserable ma- unclear. Agim Gashi, direc- responsibility, but added. “I communications company IPKO. But it began as an said it was one of two applications the board evaluat- kid” who had been accepted into a university but line application system as well as by sending a hard nipulation. “Such ratings ... devalue tor of public services for will check tomorrow. … Don’t NGO within IPKO Net, the forerunner of the current ed that year. could not afford to go. “So punishing [Durim Limaj] copy. Limaj said that he graduated in May, though the credibility of the Kosovo Agency Prishtina municipality, said you worry about the rectan- IPKO. The NGO was spun off into a foundation, with a “We looked at it and even personally I felt that I just because he is Fatmir Limaj’s son is something he would not elaborate on what he studied. A pro- of Statistics. They show that the it was responsibility of the gular hole. We will find the three million euro endowment, after Telecom Slove- had a lot of sympathy for Fatmir Limaj, I think he had we didn’t think was right and legally we had no file on the American University website referred government, unable to improve the Kosovo Electricity Distribu- responsible ones for that.” nia bought a majority stake in IPKO in 2006. it tough in The Hague and in the war, for me it was a connection that would create a conflict of interest to Limaj as a student of Business and International economic situation, is trying to cre- tion and Supply Company, — Petrit Collaku The foundation’s stated goal is “to seed and sup- good sign that his son is an excellent student and… directly.” Studies. ate a false image", he said. 6 n October 11-October 24, 2013 n Prishtina Insight October 11-October 24, 2013 n Prishtina Insight n 7

Mayor Isa Mustafa addresses supporters in Prishtina. Nation Photo/Atdhe Mulla Deputy PM blasts Qatar labour-migrant plan

By Visar Duriqi as Qatar prepares to host the 2022 World Cup. A top government official has criti- Comparing the conditions to mod- cised Kosovo’s plans to begin sending ern-day slavery, the newspaper found that guest-workers to Qatar next year amid at least 44 Nepalese workers died over two troubling new revelations about labour months this past summer. The Internation- abuses in the Gulf state. al Trade Union Confederation "I do not believe that the warned some 4,000 migrant public will accept the project workers would die by the time as presented,” said Deputy “I do not believe the World Cup starts. Prime Minister Behgjet Pacol- that the public Few details are known li. will accept the of the planned guest-worker “The people of Kosovo project as pre- agreement between Kosovo Scores of migrant workers have died in Qatar ahead of the 2022 World Cup. Associated Press via Beta are not interested in working sented. The peo- and Qatar, which Prishtina in those conditions for wag- ple of Kosovo Insight first reported on in elaborate on this or respond to Pacolli’s Qatar’s migrant worker population, es lower than the standard are not interest- August. criticisms. The Ministry of Foreign Affairs, currently 1.2 million, is expected to grow minimum wage in Kosovo,” ed in working in After The Guardian’s which is jointly pursuing the deal with Qa- as the country continues a massive build- he said. those conditions investigation, the Kosovo’s tar, did not respond to Prishtina Insight’s up ahead of the World Cup. Qatari officials The comments by Pacolli, for wages lower Ministry of Labour and So- questions. have promised to crack down on abuses by who made millions of euro than the stand- cial Welfare released a state- A Nepalese worker, Bhupendra Malla private contractors. as a construction magnate, ard minimum ment that insisted: “Abuse Thakuri, told The Guardian that his em- The International Trade Union Con- followed reporting by British wage in Kosovo.” and the violation of employ- ployers withheld his salary after a truck ran federation has dismissed those promises, newspaper The Guardian on ees will not be accepted un- over his leg: “They didn't give me anything. saying that government inspectors have the widespread abuse and ex- — Deputy Prime der any circumstances.” It was a very critical situation. I was injured shown themselves to be ineffective. Minister Behgjet ploitation of foreign workers Pacolli The ministry declined to and my leg had become septic,” he said.

No sure thing Isa Mustafa is seen as the front- runner in the mayoral race, but dynamic challengers are making his re-election less certain.

Story begins on Page 8 8 n October 11-October 24, 2013 n Prishtina Insight From the cover October 11-October 24, 2013 n Prishtina Insight n 9 The Montenegrin vote?

Most political parties in Kosovo serve a single ethnic group. New Force (Nova Snaga) serves four: Albanians, Montenegrins, Serbs and Bosniaks. Uniting its tiny membership are origins in and hopes of better political, economic and cultural relations between Kosovo and Montenegro. The party is field- ing six candidates for Prishtina’s Municipal Assembly and one for Peja. “Our house in Plave is approxi- mately 150 years old. Our Montene- grin neighbour’s house is also that old. We have coexisted with one another and will continue to coex- ist,” explained former basketball player Petrit Hakaj, who is running for the Prishtina assembly. The party, a successor to the Crnogorska Demokratska Stranka (Democratic Party of Montenegro), was relaunched in September and aims to strengthen ties between Kosovo and Montenegro. LDK - A fading The two countries already have stalwart good relations, with a few unre- solved issues. Montenegro wants Kosovo to recognise the Montene- During the 1990s grin minority in the country. Koso- and after the war, vo’s government has shown politi- the Democratic cal will to include the Montenegrin League of Kosovo, community in its constitution, but The last LDK, enjoyed so far this has not happened. election immense popularity This issue, officials say, has kept In 2009, Isa Mustafa both in Prishtina the countries from exchanging won a second term as and nationally. But ambassadors. Prishtina’s mayor by a after the death of Montenegro and Kosovo also wide margin. founder Ibrahim have yet to agree on their borders. Rugova, Kosovo’s Specifically, residents in Rugova Isa Mustafa, LDK, first president, its complain that Montenegro has es- fortunes began to tablished its border five kilometres fade. A number of The LDK faithful attend a rally for Mayor Isa Mustafa. Photos/Atdhe Mulla outside the Yugoslav-era boundary. leaders split in 2007, In July, the two foreign ministers, leaving the party and Ignor Luksic, seriously weakened. 57.22per cent met in and promised to By Zana Cimili “This time around, Isa Mustafa will not An August opinion poll from Index Kosova a race based on personalities or policies. “What culture does not feed on a spirit of debate, and At the same time complete the demarcation within a be able to count merely on an ‘anti-govern- suggested that Vetevendosje was cutting into the candidates should avoid doing is requesting we rarely focus on the beliefs and the programs the Democratic year, but it has yet to happen. Incumbent Isa Mustafa did not show up to Vekim Gashi, AKR, ment’ vote, which delivered him the crush- the LDK’s support in Prishtina. The poll found that voters merely grant them their trust, rather of the candidates,”Ilazi said. Party of Kosovo, It is imperative that Kosovo takes the first Prishtina mayoral debate, which ing victories of the past,” Malazogu said. 17.2 per cent support for Vetevendosje, behind than offer them concrete projects and ideas,” Ab- Agron Demi, director of the GAP Institute PDK, was on the the initiative to resolve these issues was held on the first day of the campaign, but So far no opinion polls have been re- the LDK’s 29.8 per cent. But how things stand to- dixhiku said. for Advanced Studies, said Mustafa is vulner- rise and took power with the Montenegrin commu- he is still assumed to be the front-runner in leased, thus making any prediction about day remains a bit of a mystery. So far, those ideas are a bit vague. able because of his record. nationally following nity, said Diellza Gjonbalaj, Nova the November 3 election. the race an educated conjecture, at best. While nine candidates are vying for the may- Mustafa, Ahmeti and Ceku all are promis- “In fact, there are fundamental changes the 2007 elections. Snaga candidate and assistant to Perhaps his absence from the debate was 22.29per cent While it remains to be seen if the new dy- or’s office, analysts believe this is essentially a ing to address Prishtina’s daily water shortages. that haven’t been made in the past six years The PDK formed a Montenegro's charge d’affaires in a sign of confidence that he will coast to yet namics will unseat Mustafa, Malazogu says three-way race between Mustafa, Vetevendosje’s Those promises are somewhat suspect because of his mandate. Illegal construction persists in governing coalition Kosovo.“I am a lawyer and I know another victory. Following his first election a competitive race will be good for Prishtina. , a Harvard-educated academic, Prishtina is on track to get 24-hour running water Prishtina, and public space is dwindling,” said with the LDK, but Astrit Salihu, PDK, that it takes time to change the in 2007, he won re-election easily in 2009, “The entry of new figures into the politi- and PDK’s Agim Ceku, the war hero and former during the administration of the next mayor, re- Demi. that fell apart in constitution. But it is important taking 57 per cent of the vote. His closest ri- cal scene, even if they don’t end up winning, prime minister who serves as minister of the gardless of who it is. Over the past several months, there has 2010. The rise of that Kosovo has the political will val, Vegim Gashi, got just 22 per cent. will show that there’s a new way of promis- . Prishtina’s water supply is under the author- been a visible acceleration in key municipal Vetevendosje (Self- to do this [accept the Montenegrin Mustafa’s Democratic League of Kosovo, ing things for the city and will shake up the One Prishtina resident, Habib Krasniqi, 45, ity of the Regional Water Company Prishtina, projects, most notably the renovations on Determination) minority],” Gjonbalaj explained. LDK, has controlled Prishtina since 2000. campaign,” Malazogu says. said he believed the competition could spell not the municipality. The water company, with Prishtina’s main pedestrian thoroughfare, has to some extent Hakaj said Albanians in Kosovo But analysts say this time it could be differ- 12.27per cent Vetevendosje (Self-Determination) is trouble for the LDK. a 20 million euro loan from the German Devel- Mother Teresa Boulevard. overshadowed and Montenegro should also have ent. expected to be the biggest outlet for the an- “The LDK will have a harder time winning opment Bank, is building a 35 million euro water Some residents said they found the timing the LDK as an closer ties. “If a survey is done in Leon Malazogu, the executive director of Besnik Tahiri, AAK, ti-government vote. In 2009, Vetevendosje this time, mainly because some of the other can- treatment plant that it says will give Prishtina 24- suspect. opposition party. Prishtina asking people where the think tank Democracy for Development, was still a protest movement. But in 2010, in didates have superior qualities,” Krasniqi said. hour water by 2017. “Many of the roads in the city remained Despite the LDK’s Plava or Gucia is, the results will be said many people used to support LDK as a ran in the national elections on its anti-gov- “Many citizens have grown tired of Mustafa .” Ramadan Ilazi of the Kosovo Institute for chaotic for years, and now that the campaign national’s woes, it weak,” he said. vote against the Democratic Party of Koso- ernment credentials, and now is the num- , the executive director of Peace said this election is unlikely to produce sig- is starting, they have suddenly been fixed,” said has continued to vo, PDK, currently headed by PM Hashim ber three party in parliament after the PDK the RIINVEST Institute, said the competition is a nificant changes for Prishtina because voters are Linda Haziraj, 30, a local entrepreneur. Una Ha- dominate Prishtina - Petrit Colloku Thaci. and LDK. good thing, but it remains to be seen if this will be not demanding concrete platforms. “Our political jdari contributed to this story. politics. 5.47per cent 10 n October 11-October 24, 2013 n Prishtina Insight October 11-October 24, 2013 n Prishtina Insight n 11

Serbia announces cutbacks to avoid Podgorica to host Gay Pride march Italy backs ’s EU bankruptcy candidate status

Region The Serbian government will [Serbia] would go bankrupt in the next Montenegro’s second-ever Kalezic said. Montenegro’s first-ever gay Italian Foreign minister er of parliament Ilir Meta. Italy is Alba- MNE AL SRB implement a series of aus- two years," said finance minister Lazar Pride parade is due to be held rights parade, named Seaside Pride, was Emma Bonino said during nia's leading commercial partner. terity measures including public sector Krstic. The first measure will be to re- in Podgorica later this month despite at- organised in Budva on July 23 by LGBT Fo- a visit to Tirana that Italy was working Trade reached nearly two billion euro For the latest news and analy- wage cuts, VAT increases and subsidy duce by 20 per cent wages in the pub- tacks on the first march in the seaside town rum Progress, another gay rights group. It to ensure that Albania receives its EU in 2012, and in the first quarter of 2013 sis from around the Balkans, reductions in a bid to stave off eco- lic sector that are higher than 60,000 of Budva in July. Danijel Kalezic, head of was attended by an estimated 120 people candidate status this autumn. “We’re amounted to 972 million euro, a year- nomic disaster. The Serbian govern- dinars (around 525 euro); wages ex- the campaign group Queer Montenegro, and went ahead despite being attacked great supporters of your joining the Eu- on-year increase of 5.94 per cent. Eco- visit www.balkaninsight.com. ment on Tuesday morning present- ceeding 100,000 dinars (around 875 said that the Pride parade would go ahead by anti-gay protesters. In August, Mon- ropean family,” Bonino said. The Italian nomic ties between the two countries ed a package of economic measures euro) will be cut by 25 per cent. Krstic on October 20 in the capital after lengthy tenegrin police charged 32 people with foreign minister stressed however that will be strengthened further by the which it said were aimed at bolstering announced a significant reduction discussions with police. “We have been indecent and reckless behaviour during “the EU is not just an opportunity but Trans-Adriatic Pipeline, TAP, which will the country’s ailing economy without in state subsidies, which, as he said, working together with the police since July, the march. Podgorica’s first Pride parade also discipline.” After meeting with carry gas from energy-rich Azerbaijan hitting the poorest parts of the popu- would bring the biggest savings in the when we announced the organisation of was supposed to have taken in May 2011, Bushati, she also held talks with Albani- to Europe, and crosses Albanian terri- lation. "Without these measures, we budget. the parade, and our cooperation is good,” but was cancelled following two attacks. an Prime Minister Edi Rama and speak- tory.

By Boris Pavelic in Zagreb advertisement English language sports programme for children cro The story of Anka Zjacic is just one of many thou- sands like it: a story of an ordinary life made extraordinary by conflict. Anka She was born in 1950 in the small Zjacic, 1950 Exploring village of Srijane in the Dalmatian hin- terland, lived in the coastal city of Split Some went, others came. Some with her husband, a Yugoslav Army were breaking things, others Places officer, and their two children – and threatening us. are the power limited then war came, and life became hell. They were pointing a gun at my son. Park School Pristina is pleased to offer the following after school activities, open to all children: Her husband was killed and then, Then a knife, going towards him. Baby Swimming Swimming for Juniors After School in 1992, she was expelled from her There was no protection from anyone, Sports Activities apartment with her daughter and son. no police. None of the neighbours If your baby is over six months old Two courses will be offered, one for they will love swimming with you in beginners and one for the intermedi- PSP is also offering sporting activities memory the warm, relaxing environment of Meti ate swimmer. Both will take place at the She eventually won it back in a court of every afternoon of the school week. Les- dared come. pool close to Podujevë. Swimming ses- Swiss Wellness Centre in Milloshevë sons are available in football, basketball, case, a decade later, but then in 2011, sions for babies are great for strength- and be taught by PSP’s PE teacher, who table tennis and martial arts, all taught ening arm, leg and neck muscles, and is a qualified sports teacher with expe- after all the trauma that the family had by PSP’s qualified sports teacher. Les- superb for tiny lungs and cardiovascular rience as a swim instructor. The pro- sons for each activity will take place fitness. It is also good exercise for the gramme will run over 13 weeks, with twice a week. endured, her son committed suicide. parent! Lessons will take place once a the Little Ducklings swim taking place Her daughter now lives in Mo- Mirsad A Croatian rights group has collected week, given by a qualified sports teacher once a week and the Junior Strokes tak- with extensive experience as a swim- ing place twice a week. For more details, and to sign up, star, and Anka is left in the apart- Tokic, ming instructor for children. please see our website: ment that the whole family once personal recollections from some http://www.park-school.com shared in Split, alone with her 1969 450 people who suffered in conflicts memories. This is just one of some 450 The grenades from WWII and onwards to create a personal stories that were col- started falling powerful oral history archive. lected by the Zagreb-based rights above our heads. group Documenta for its recent- I was scared, really. ly-launched project entitled ‘Croatian I was never scared in Memories: Unveiling Personal Memo- my life, as I did that day. ries on War and Detention’. For hours, 100 men… you For more information please contact: The personal testimonies of ordi- could hear a mosquito … among 100 of +381 (38) 755 601 • +386 (49) 694 054 nary people who suffered have been us. One mosquito. That was incredible silence. The fear froze us. [email protected] • www.park-school.com recorded on video to create an oral www.facebook.com/Park-School-Pristina history archive which can be used by researchers, historians and teachers. sustainable peace in society,” Docu- cusing on one dominant and therefore and fled in 1993. When he returned in 2001, But despite that fact he was born and Some have also been posted online. menta said. divisive narrative. he found his house destroyed, but eventual- raised in Croatia, Mirsad had problems get- “We want to affirm the personal Mihovil Presenting the project last That is why, she explained, the pro- ly rebuilt it with state help. ting citizenship documents after the country memories of the witnesses of histor- week in Zagreb, Documenta’s ject brings together the “different, often Documenta said that it wanted to en- became independent. Then in 1995, he was ical events in Croatia and keep them Pavlic, president, Vesna Terselic, said totally opposite experiences” of people courage “compassion and solidarity with called up by the Croatian army, and went to for the future. We think that by record- that history still burdens every- from Croatia and the wider region. all victims”, whatever the political circum- fight in the war in Croatia and Bosnia and ing personal experiences, it is possible 1928 day life in Croatia and the former stances of their suffering. Herzegovina. to understand better hidden aspects Well, at Yugoslav region, where “historical ‘Compassion and solidarity for all’ “The awareness about the suffering of After the conflict ended, he became a of politics and wars in these areas,” first, it traumas have been transferred from One of those unique experiences record- our neighbours or people from other parts de-mining expert, but lost his leg in 2007 Documenta explained on the ‘Croa- was pretty bad, generation to generation”. ed by Documenta was that of Mihovil of the country, especially of those of other while clearing a minefield near Gospic in tian Memories’ project website. because we had to She said that just one example of this Pavlic, who was born in 1928 in the village nationalities, should initiate debates in lo- central Croatia. He is now retired and lives The archive, it said, can form a earn everything, to build a was that the ‘Croatian Memories’ project of Jelov Klanac in central Croatia. Miho- cal communities and start communication with his wife and their child in Zagreb – just basis for “deeper understanding of house, buy cattle. And the land was had been funded by the Netherlands, vil’s brother died while fighting in World between different social groups,” it said. another story of another life that was shaped people’s fate and suffering, but also of bare in those years. Later we could while the Croatian government had re- War II as a ‘domobran’ soldier – part of a Another Croatian who recounted his by conflict. the living struggle which non-political fused to support it. force battling for an independent Croatia. memories for the project was Mirsad Tokic, manage. When we started something, people had to go through”. Terselic suggested that it was nec- When war returned again in 1991, the who was born in Zagreb in 1969 and recalled it was easier and we could live better. More stories are available on the “Our aim is to initiate processes essary to create “a memorialisation area around Jelov Klanac came under growing up in a multi-ethnic environment When this war came, everything was Croatian Memories website, of facing the past, which we consid- culture which will open up space for Serb control. Mihovil remained in his and believing in the unifying values of the gone again. www.croatianmemories.org. er necessary for building stable and victims from all sides”, rather than fo- home, but was tortured by Serb soldiers, former Yugoslavia. 12 n October 11-October 24, 2013 n Prishtina Insight October 11-October 24, 2013 n Prishtina Insight n 13

Tingell’s back A favorite watering hole for Prishtina’s young creative types has re-opened. Tingell Tan- gell was closed for around two months for renovations. Despite a bit of a face-lift, we’re told Tingell has lost none of its charm and still has that great rakia. For more information, piguide FYI visit facebook.com/tingelltangell.

WHERE Pallet Lounge 01 Pallet lounge is an newly opened, Women’s opportunity is exquisite cafe restaurant that offers TO PICK UP a variety of multicultural dishes and drinks. It is located right across PRISHTINA the AUK University in the outskirts of the city, surrounded by nature. Prishtina’s reward INSIGHT Gërmia Road (across AUK) +386 (0)49 880-777 palletlounge@ gmail.com facebook.com/Pallet By Elizabeth Gowing and Minister for European Integration, Vlora Citaku – and by a group of entre- Hotel Prishtina Lounge Papillon Bistro Bar 02 You want to take home some souvenirs preneurial businesswomen from across 06 Hotel Prishtina’s 43 charming guest Papillon offers more than 60 types rooms and suites are reminiscent of a of wines from France, Italy, Spain, from Kosovo? How about a ballpoint Kosovo. Some are experienced business small hotel in the European tradition. and Kosovo with great prices and pen made in China with the Albanian owners such as Valbona Raifi of City The hotel offers free, fast wifi internet, delicious dishes. You can also try eagle on it? Bakery, whose fresh bread and pastries complimentary breakfast, conference different types of local or interna- tional beers. Mother Teresa Str. Nr. We all know that there are you can smell as soon as you enter room, swimming pool, sauna and laun- dry service. Hotel Prishtina, St. Vaso 51 A [email protected] beautiful handcrafts produced the centre. Others have never had Pasha nr. 20, +381 38 / 22 32 84. 044 103 310 in Kosovo, and that there are a business premises before. Herta Hotel AFA small-scale enterprises that Manxhuka produces candles in her Pizza Napoli 03 SHOP 07 A taste of Napoli in Prishtina. After ten Located in a quiet neighbourhood need our support. The chal- small enterprise called ‘Deshira’ and years of making pizza in Napoli, and just outside the city centre, Hotel lenge in buying local, natural, she says “this is a great opportunity with only love to blame, Fatmir, the Afa can guarantee guests a peace- handmade products here has always for me. Until now people have only been head chef, returned to Prishtina. His ful night while being within walking pizzas, made in a woodburn stove, are distance of all the action. Rooms been to find the producers - who are dis- able to buy candles from me online. Now go in your lunch hour. Everyone there on The Women’s Market Center is a won- definitely genuine napolitanas. Fatmir start at 45 euro for a single, and proportionately from rural areas, and there’s a place that’s Monday spoke with excited anticipation derful opportunity not only for the indi- also has several delicious pastas on of- luxury rooms and apartments are often don’t have information about their open all the time about the opportunity the centre offered, vidual women and families represented fer, a true joy for the taste buds. Pizze- available. The hotel’s rooms are Elizabeth well appointed and comfortable. goods available online or in English. and it’s a great step for women to take their rightful place in but for Kosovo’s business sector. Whether ria Napoli off Luan Haradinaj, opposite Gowing is a Newborn. 044/409-402402 15, Rr Ali , Sunny Hill, Now things are easier. Last week forward. When peo- founder of Kosovo’s business sector. They could those opportunities are realized now de- Prishtina +381 38/225 226 www. was the opening of the Women’s Market ple are able to see equally have mentioned the research pends on the customers. It depends on Hotel Gracanica hotelafa.com The Ideas 04 Center in central Prishtina, in Pejton. the candles direct- known worldwide that when women you. A place to relax in the calm and clean Partnership, air of the countryside, just 15 minute It offers 25 women’s businesses under ly they understand which is selling earn money a higher proportion of it goes sfrom Prishtina city center, 500 m one roof in an initiative led by Women in how beautiful they its products at to feed, clothe and educate their children, from the center of Gracanica and its Business, with support from the Dutch are.” than if the money is earned by their hus- he Women’s Market Center Location: It’s housed in a UNESCO World Heritage monastery the Women’s and a short walk to the archeological and Finnish embassies, the European T h e c e n t r e bands. Buying your bread, your herbal building with a distinctive orange facade on Bob Market Center. site of Ulpiana. The boutique hotel Commission, the EBRD, the Ministry of looks great, with tea, gifts and souvenirs at the Women’s Doll Street, which runs at the edge of Pejton at combines contemporary architecture 05 Trade and Industry and the Municipali- stalls bulging with pickles, bright with Market Center is more likely to support right angles from Bill Clinton Boulevard, past with traditional elements to create a unique atmosphere that will make ty of Prishtina. jewelry, fragrant with handmade soaps. Kosovo’s long-term development than the defunct Swiss Casino, past numerous car washes, and round to the Hotel Prishtina. you feel at home. +381 (0)38 729 888 A The opening was attended by the dep- With a cafe space to enjoy the cheese or spending your money at the supermarket (landline) +386 (0)49 764 000 Hours: 9am to 6pm, Monday through Saturday. uty prime minister, Mimoza Kusari-Lila, burek you’ve bought, it’s a great place to or out of town mall. [email protected] www.hotelgracanica.com www.facebook.com/HotelGracanica EAT DRINK 07 EDS SHOP

06 Sabaja Beer House Pronto 02 03 Prishtina’s new microbrewery, Sabaja, has opened a pub near the stadium to showcase If you have been looking for jalapenos, pine nuts, a superb selection of Italian wines, A their beer - India Pale Ale and Amber Ale - with classic American fare. Fred, the manager of B limoncello, curry, peppercorns, bay leaves, oregano, many other spices, tortellini and SHOP this warm and welcoming pub, describes the motto of Sabaja Beer House as “Good Beer, other pastas, prosciutto, mozzarella, pesto, Worcester sauce, balsamic vinegar, and Good Food, and Good Service.” With the beer flowing freely, waiters attentive to your every all sorts of other food products, then Pronto, a bulk food store that supplies local need, and down home American food favorites such as Buffalo wings, chili, BBQ restaurants, is the place for you. Located behind Albi Mall, on a non-descript street ribs, grilled chicken, bacon cheeseburgers and French fries, as well as (see accompanying map) even though the store will win few design non-traditional dishes including curry. Sabaja definitely lives up to awards, it is loaded with plenty of imported Italian and German The Ninety One 05 The Ninety One (91-shi) is back their motto. (Douglas E. Morris) products. The main drawback is that these food products with its new location and old tradi- are only sold in bulk, so either you better be ready to eat, tion. The owners and the staff are Location: Behind Prishtina Stadium, right next door to the or you should arrange to buy as a group and divide your the same. The breakfast is still Red Cross (see map). Hours: Open daily, 8am to midnight. purchases. (Douglas E. Morris) served as usual while the coffee is served with delicious homemade For more information: Visit www.sabajadrsbeerhouse. almond biscotti. The new menu com or www.birrasabaja.com,or call 049-582-000. Location: Behind the Albi Mall in Veternik. includes: roast fillet of beef For more information: Call 044/137-768 or served with spinach potatoes & wine, Chicken and confit garlic in 038/137-768, or write to [email protected]. bed of mash & thyme juice. The kitchen is open every day until 11:00 04 pm. Fehmi Agani str., 29/2 (Te kafet e vogla) - 044 91 91 91

B 14 n October 11-October 24, 2013 n Prishtina Insight October 11-October 24, 2013 n Prishtina Insight n 15

“Edith and I” 280 pages, paperback By Elizabeth Gowing For more information or to order copies, visit Opinion www.edith-and-i.com. Send us your thoughts to [email protected]. cultureSabaja brewpub offers classic American fare with its great beer.>> page 12 Is Serbia concealing its Book review agenda on Kosovo? Retracing Edith Durham’s steps By Hana Marku Gowing traces the steps of Durham’s life purpose and meaning in fighting for the in fact, while most Albanians are aware fter unknown assailants in This paves the way towards the possibil- “If we have ten mayors [elected] from the and travels across the Balkans and the cause of a people not her own. Things get of Durham’s existence and contributions Serb-controlled northern ity of electing new representatives through list supported by the Government of Serbia, It’s hard to find an Albanian who doesn’t United Kingdom. The book chronicles murky however, where the author tries to the Albanian cause, few are taught to Kosovo gunned down Lithu- Kosovo-wide local elections scheduled for we can continue financing everything that know about Edith Durham, the British the different phases of Durham’s life and to point to her own experiences in Koso- refer to her as “queen.” A ride on a tractor anian EULEX officer Audrius November 3. we have so far and will not lose a single job,” writer and traveller who spent the great- career, and also relates anecdotes and vo as a parallel to Durham’s travels - and from Fushe Kosova to Prishtina is treated Senavicius on September 19, Worryingly, most voters in northern Koso- he said. er part of her adult life studying and memories of the author where those lo- as a fellow authority on Albanians and as a fun adventure, rather than a reality Aleading Serbian politicians condemned the vo have little information about what these “That is why we are going out to vote [in advocating for Albanians in the early cations overlap. Through her thorough their customs. for those who cannot afford the luxury of murder, calling the perpetrators “enemies of changes mean. They do not communicate Kosovo in November], because it is important 1900’s. She wrote seven books about research, Gowing uncovers facts about While Gowing decries the infantili- a car - a strange counterpoint to the tough Serbia” and “people who do not want to see with Prishtina while Belgrade sends them that ten mayors be close to Belgrade and not Balkan politics within the Ottoman Em- Durham that have been lost over the zation of Albanians in Durham’s writing, and uncomfortable horse and ox-driven Serbia move forward.” mixed messages. Prishtina,” he added. pire, the Albanian struggle for independ- years, such as the charms, textiles and the first opening pages of the book poke journeys that Gowing attributes to Dur- Serbian officials worried that even before I saw an example of this a week before the “This way we will have the tools to keep ence, and anthropological observations other artefacts she brought with herself fun at the funny mispronunciation of ham. it was established who was behind the mur- BSF, when the Council for Inclusive Govern- financing life in Kosovo and , in a le- of the various peoples of the Balkans she to London between her Balkan travels, Durham’s last name Gowing’s Albanian The book as a whole provides insight der, it would be blamed on Belgrade, and un- ance, CIG, hosted a meeting in Skopje on the gitimate way, despite all the pressure from the encountered. Her most highly regarded her possible love affair with an English acquaintances: “What are you, AyDIT into the life, contemporaries, and work of dermine Serbia’s chances of finally getting a future of Serbia and Kosovo. entire world to do otherwise,” he continued. book is “High Albania” (1908), a chronicle aid worker, and Durham’s very own mi- DourHAM?” In the same breath that Edith Durham in a thoughtful and com- date for EU accession talks at the EU Council The event was attended by high-ranking The government in Belgrade, in other of her journey through northern Alba- crofinance initiative for Albanian cotton Gowing attempts to prove that Durham prehensive way. As a book about the life meeting in December. Belgrade officials, Serbian representatives words, wants to keep controlling the newly nia that is part travelogue, part political and wool weavers. did not simply see herself as an all-know- and times of Edith Durham, Gowing’s Watching these reactions on Serbian TV in from northern Kosovo and politicians and civil elected Kosovo Serb mayors and through commentary, part observation of life and The historical research embed- ing, merciful Westerner, a fawning Koso- research is what lends the story weight. a hotel room in Belgrade, where I had gone as a society from the rest of Kosovo. them keep control of parts of Kosovo. It wants customs. ded into the book provides a sensitive, vo Post official is quoted stating: “Now at The trouble lies in Gowing’s decision to panelist of the Belgrade Security Forum, BSF, There, one northern Kosovo Serb repre- to make sure that politicians loyal to this gov- In “Edith and I,” British author and thought provoking woman who was last we have a stamp with the picture of use her own story as a parallel to Dur- I was anticipating a timely event that would sentative turned to the representatives from Prishtina Insight columnist Elizabeth ahead of her time, who found a sense of the British woman we call Queen” - when ham’s. offer these same politicians a platform to ad- Belgrade and made it clear that he barely dress the incident in the presence of EU and grasped the implications of the EU-led deal advertisement Kosovo participants. between Kosovo and Serbia. By Besa Shahini Most did not even show up. Ivica Dacic, “I am educated and keep myself well in- the Prime Minister, was scheduled to speak formed. I watch the news all the time. But this on the first plenary session about EU integra- is the first time here, at this meeting, that I am tion as a state-building tool. But he cancelled hearing that we will be voting in Kosovo local In the current context and sent Branko Ruzic, the Minister for EU In- elections, creating Kosovo local institutions tegration, just in time for the latter’s name to and implementing Kosovo laws,” he said. of northern Kosovo, be put on the final printed agenda. This was not the only concern expressed. mixed messages are Ruzic came, spoke and then had to leave “What about our public sector jobs?” another right away due to other obligations. Aleksan- Serb representative from northern Kosovo dangerous. There are dar Vucic, Serbia’s Deputy Prime Minister and asked. the strongman in the current government, “There are some 20,000 people that Ser- concerns of more vi- was scheduled to speak at the second plena- bia supports in Kosovo. Only some 6,000 will ry session about security issues. He also can- remain and be transferred to Kosovo’s payroll olent incidents as the celled moments before, citing health reasons. system. Will the rest become redundant? How election date nears. He did not send a replacement. will these people support their families?” Later that day, Marko Djuric, advisor to The answers that came from high-ranking President Tomislav Nikolic, scheduled to Serbian officials at the CIG meeting were hard- ernment win the election. speak during an off-the-record session with ly reassuring. One explained that, as Serbia At the same time, the government has his Kosovar counterparts and with politicians was going through tough economic times, it committed itself to implementing the Koso- and analysts from Kosovo and Serbia, also was no longer possible to keep people who do vo-Serbia Agreement, which among many cancelled. Once again there was no replace- not actually work on the payroll. other things also means letting Kosovo Serb ment. In truth, fictitious jobs in public companies, voters choose their representatives freely, As a result of this wave of cancellations, such as the management of “Aerodrom Pristi- and then letting those representatives coop- the participants did not get to hear what Ser- na”, or the Serbian mayor of a “parallel” Prishti- erate with Prishtina. bia’s leading politicians actually think about na municipality, had to be cut anyway, whether These are contradictory goals that are this tragic escalation of violence in northern there was an agreement with Kosovo or not. producing contradictory messages. In the Kosovo, how it might impact on implemen- But this is not the kind of message one current context of northern Kosovo, mixed Besa Shahini tation of the agreement reached in Brussels hears in public from Belgrade officials. messages are dangerous. There are concerns is a Senior between Kosovo and Serbia, or what Serbia’s On the contrary, while the CIG meeting was of more violent incidents as the election date Analyst with leaders might be able to do now. taking place, Aleksandar Vulin, Serbian Min- nears. the European One of the most controversial parts of ister for Kosovo and Metohija, told the press in Belgrade must implement its part of the Stability the Brussels agreement involves Serbia dis- Belgrade that Serbia was not changing its pol- Kosovo-Serbia agreement, clarify its mes- Initiative, mantling the parallel local institutions it has icies in Kosovo, and that the November elec- sages to the and so allow for a currently based supported in the four mainly Serbian munic- tion would only strengthen Serbia’s presence peaceful transition in northern Kosovo. in Prishtina. ipalities of northern Kosovo. in Kosovo. Call us: +377 (0) 44 11 11 11 l +381 (0) 38 22 22 80 16 n October 11-October 24, 2013 n Prishtina Insight