November 8-21, 2013 l #122 l Price 1€

Only in Skenderaj: No joke: Strong Party Prishtina Jailed mayor wins big, poised to win seat in Insight but loses votes. page 2 Prishtina. page 9 who has their In North Mitrovica, little stood between voters and election-wreckers. page 4 Albanian family prospers in back? volatile Bosniak Mahala. page 6

A choice between a l PI Guide: Traditia lives up to name with classic Albanian fare. page 12 veteran and a reformer l Region: Former Bosnian refugee for mayor. page 14 makes run for US Congress. page 10 PageTwo2 n November 8-21, 2013 n Prishtina Insight the enduring start saMi here 2009 PerceNt of aLL votes success of a 85.0% LUshtakU 2009 votes jailed mayor In 2009 sami Lushtaku celebrated his 25,017 2013 re-election in a jail cell. the mayor of skenderaj is accused of war crimes. He got a whopping 88.5 votes per cent of the vote, beating his -7,866 In 2013 85 per cent in 2009. it’s the best fewer votes showing of any mayor by far. and it all happened, curiously, +3.6 17,151 PerceNt of aLL votes with dramatically lower turnout in more 2013 skenderaj, a place that has seen PerceNtage suspiciously high turnout in the PoiNts 88.5% last two elections. 2009 62.8% from the editor (29,894 voters) turnout 2013 40.4% Betrayal for those brave (21,222 voters) enough to vote votes - 8,672 for sami voters LusHtaKu iN A few days ago, I was discussing the recent democratic progress. In North Mitrovica, sKeNderaj elections with a colleague. In slightly more thugs intimidated voters while police did - 22.4 colorful language, I asked, “So, would you nothing. Three polling places were at- PerceNtage say these were significantly less bad than tacked and no one stood in the way. PoiNts last time?” She laughed, and said, “You Voters took a big risk, yet they were left internationals are all the same. The elec- to fend for themselves. The blame extends tions were great.” In all fairness, I think a from the individual officers all the way to lot of people in Kosovo anticipated that the Brussels. The EU, in particular, takes special elections would be blame because it is the reason why Kosovo anything but fair and had that April Agreement. If and free. Consid- Brussels was as insistent about security for ering the whole- voters as it was for elections, we would be sale fraud that having a different conversation about the happened in 2010 Nate. elections. We’d be lauding the small, but en- in some areas and Tabak couraging the turnout of Serbs in Northern the lack of reform, @birn.eu.com Kosovo, instead talking about the people it was a reasona- Editor-in-Chief who spoiled the elections. ble assumption to While it’s true that Kosovo Police were make. primarily responsible that day, the prod- Luckily, we were wrong. A preliminary ding from the right people in the interna- report from the EU’s observer mission tional community would have resulted in found good conditions within the majority a different security situation. There’s an of polling places. The biggest deficiencies even more troubling prospect being raised were attributed to incompetence, and not by some commentators, that the desire to bad intentions. In a relatively short period keep these elections free from the appear- of time, Kosovo figured out how to run a ance of international interference overrode good election. Based on BIRN’s monitors basic issues of security. Prishtina Balkan Investigative Reporting Network • Mensa e Studenteve, on the ground, it seems like respect for the The elections will be re-run - and pre- Insight first floor, 10000, Prishtina, Kosovo Pho• Ne: +381 (0) 38 24 33 58 process has taken root among individual sumably with better security. However, I • edItoR-IN-chIef: Nate Tabak • Staff: Jeta Xharra, Marcus Tanner, voters, too. suspect that it will take more than that to Petrit Collaku, Parim Olluri, Flutura Kusari and Arijeta Lajka. • deSIgN: Trembelat • Many voters in northern Kosovo, how- regain the trust of those who voted and Prishtina Insight is supported by the Kosovo Foundation for Open Society, Norwegian ever, did not have a chance to embrace the those who didn’t. Embassy, Rockefeller Brothers Fund and the Balkan Investigative Reporting Network. November 8-21, 2013 n Prishtina Insight n 3

E: [email protected] / T: +381 (0)38 60 40 70 / W: www.rikon-ks.com

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Në çmime janë të përfshira të gjitha taksat 4 n November 8-21, 2013 n Prishtina Insight November 8-21, 2013 n Prishtina Insight n 5

elections: winners and losers

after the November 3 elec- has fallen well short of the 50 the prizes so far: Nation tions, mayors were elected in per cent he needed to win in drenas, Kacanik, skenderaj only 10 municipalities. a sec- the first round - he got 43 per and shtime - PdK ond voting is scheduled in 24 cent by the last count. He’ll fushe Kosove, istog and municipalities on december likely faces vetevendosje’s Podujeve - ldK 1 - while there are no results , who came decan - aaK electIoNS yet from Northern Kosovo. in second, with 31.6 per cent. mamusha - turkish Peo- By comparison, in the while ahmeti would seem to ple's Party 2009 elections a second have an obvious disadvan- round of elections was held tage, the fact that 57 per cent PdK lost 17,000 votes in the in 18 out of 36 municipalities, of voters decided they did not muncpailties it has won so while this time candidates for want a third term for mustafa far, compared to 2009. mayor will compete in 24 out is telling. an independent Polls were open of 38 municipalities. candidate, refki suma, won ldK, meanwhile, has gained runoff in Prishtina:i t ap- in Han i elezit. 7.341 voters in its mayoral pears that isa mustafa of LdK elections, compared to 2009.

— for attackers allowed those elements opposing the elections to organize,” he said. Violent disruption of last Sunday’s local “Kosovo Police were responsible for maintaining a ground presence, but elections in Serb-run northern Kosovo was it is well known here that they lack the credibility, capacity and authority for predictable, so why was so little done to this kind of operation,” he added. Three months ago, under the terms prevent it? of the April Brussels Agreement, Koso- vo Police appointed Nenad Djuric as the new regional commander for northern Kosovo. But many see the new appoint- By Harriet salem of explosions rocked the northern, Serb ment as largely symbolic and say it has side of the divided town of Mitrovica. yet to have real impact. “The Kosovo On Sunday November 3 at 5pm, an hour Stashed below patio doors and thrown Police have been operating for 13 years before polls closed, masked men simul- through windows in the dead of night, in north Kosovo without real authority,” taneously stormed three polling sta- the homemade explosives had one tar- Krstic said. “You cannot expect things to tions in North Mitrovica, meeting no ap- get: the mayoral candidates in the town, change in such a short period of time.” parent resistance from police. Tossing as well as their homes, families and busi- , Kosovo Interior “The OSCE is not responsible for securi- tear-gas grenades, smashing windows nesses. Minister, has since defended the con- ty at elections. Yes, we were in constant and ransacking rooms, the raiders de- By voting day it was clear that in duct of the police, saying they did a “rel- contact with EULEX and KFOR about the “Security is stroyed ballot boxes and the votes they northern Mitrovica there was space for atively good job” on election day, and situation, but that is not really our role. the job of contained, bringing an abrupt end to one election campaign only: “Boycott”. that, “this time they did their job mainly We were there to help administer and the security an otherwise relatively peaceful local Organised with the backing of the right- sight at 9am as she cast her ballot paper. around and intimidating people, they Heavily armed as they should have done”. facilitate voting procedures.” euLeX police forces, election. wing Democratic Party of Serbia, DSS, “Right now, I am not thinking about the did not react,” an international observer There is also a political dynamic to “Security is the job of the security officers, above, Kosovo Visibly shaken officials from the -Or and the ultranationalist groups Obraz election results, I am just hoping that told Prishtina Insight. deploy follow- consider, she added, asking what “the forces, Kosovo Police, EULEX and KFOR. ganisation for Security and Co-opera- and Dveri, the boycott protesters made voters’ democratic rights will be upheld “There was no reaction even after ing the attacks in image of Kosovo would be if the Kosovo We are not GI Joe or Rambo. OSCE staff Police, tion in Europe, OSCE, who were present their presence felt. Frequent rallies were today.” we called the regional commander for North mitrovica. Police, EULEX and KFOR went to polling are not body armour for ballot boxes, we EULEX and at left, Kosovo in Mitrovica to help facilitate the contro- held in the town centre featuring a mass Throughout the day, groups of Mitrovica north, Nenad Djuric, at about Police inspect a stations with armored vehicles?” are civilians,” he added. KFOR. We versial vote, were escorted to safety in of Serbian flags and nationalist propa- young men, often wearing sunglasses 10.30,” the same observer added. damaged polling Nevertheless, Gaon said the OSCE are not GI Joe the southern, Albanian-run part of the ganda, and attended by a core group of and hoodies to conceal their identity, Shortly before the attacks occurred, site. a man, right, Muddled command chain had “felt assured that enough had been waits to vote. or Rambo. city. Helicopters filled the sky as con- leather-jacketed skinheads. hung around the exits to the polling sta- the situation became even more dis- For its part, EULEX maintains its done to guarantee the security of their OSCE staff voys of officers from the EU rule-of-law The self-organised group hijacked tions, sometimes filming or photograph- turbing. PHotos: associated role was mainly to provide advice to the staff prior to the vote”. Asked if an evac- Press via Beta are not body mission, EULEX, and KFOR peacekeep- state property, including cranes and ing voters on their mobile phones. Those “There are still groups of rather Kosovo Police and only step in if a seri- uation procedure had been set in place ers flooded in to prevent violence from other building equipment, to cleanse the casting their votes at Sveti Sava school, frightening looking young men outside ous incident occurred. But the chain of in case of serious incidents, Gaon said he armour for escalating. town of campaign posters. In their place many of them elderly, had to walk down polling stations here, basically intim- command established for communicat- was “unable to provide information on ballot boxes, It could have been worse. No deaths appeared graffiti reading “1389”, “Kosovo the gauntlet of a narrow alley leading to idating voters,” a journalist, Peter Ge- ing vital information about the security operational procedures”. Commenting we are or serious injuries occurred. But a close- is Serbia”, and “boycott November 3”. the gates of the primary school under oghegan, tweeted at 4:49pm. situation on the ground appears to have on videos aired on YouTube, showing civilians” ly watched and internationally impor- Yet, unlike in previous years, the the protesters’ watchful gaze. The strong-arm tactics proved ef- been shaky. apparent confusion between OSCE staff tant election was marred in an all too tension was not so much a product of “Of course I am worried. Look out- fective. Turnout among Serb voters in EULEX spokesperson Dragana Niko- and Kosovo Police following the attacks, - nikola Gaon, osCe predictable way, when the authorities ethnic struggles inside Kosovo. Instead, side and tell me how you could not be?” north Mitrovica was a paltry 4 per cent, lic-Solomon said the mission closely Gaon added: “You can only believe your spokesperson maintained security in polling stations it reflected a battle being played out Kosovo declared independence in said Jelena Stankovic, as she cast her far lower than the 15-25 per cent of voters monitored the situation in all four north- eyes.” at a worryingly low level. between the Serbian government and 2008. To many Serbs in Kosovo, Serbia vote. who cast ballots in the other Serb-major- ern municipalities, including North Kosovo’s Central Election Commis- The fatal shooting of a EULEX cus- the Serbs in north Kosovo. The bone has betrayed them. But the situation did not improve. ity municipalities in the north. Mitrovica, via operational command sion on Wednesday said voting in the af- toms officer on September 19 by un- of contention was a 15-point European Accounts vary as to how many police of- centres. But EULEX officers, not present fected areas will be re-run on November known assailants in nearby Zvecan was Union-mediated deal between the Ser- Concerns raised early ficers were present at the polling sites, or Resistance predictable at polling stations, were dependent on 17. While steps reportedly will be taken to an early indication that trouble in north- bian Prime Minister, Ivica Dacic, and Mayoral candidate Adrijana Hodzic, if they maintained a constant presence “What did international organi- information fed up the line by the floun- ramp up the security measures this time, ern Kosovo was escalating. “It is obvious his Kosovo counterpart, Hashim Thaci, who was repeatedly threatened during at all. But various witnesses have told sations expect to happen?” Branislav dering Kosovo Police, and by the OSCE the already fragile confidence of voters from such an attack that there are still aimed at normalising relations between the election campaign, noted her con- Prishtina Insight that officers did little Krstic, a Mitrovica-based analyst, asks. – which has stressed in the aftermath of has been damaged. interests that don’t want the situation in the two countries. cerns about thuggish behaviour early but watch. “There was strong resistance to the elec- the incidents that is not a professional “I can understand if people are con- the north of Kosovo to be normalized,” The local elections, which mark an on Sunday, as the voting started. “The “Six or seven police officers were tion here in North Mitrovica and every- security body. cerned about voting again,” Gaon said, Samuel Zbogar, head of the EU Office in end to Belgrade’s de-facto control of presence of large groups of youths in- around the polling centres, but although body knew this. It shows poor planning “There appears to be some blurring “because there was a process that has al- edona Peci Prishtina, said at the time. northern Kosovo, are the first that the timidating voters at polling stations is we alerted them to the threat posed to and understanding of the situation and confusion of roles,” OSCE spokes- ready been compromised, and violence contributed to In the weeks that followed, a series Serbian government has backed since unacceptable”, she told Prishtina In- voters by unauthorized people standing by international organisations, which man Nikola Gaon told Prishtina Insight. broke out.” this story. November 8-21, 2013 n Prishtina Insight n 5

elections: winners and losers

after the November 3 elec- has fallen well short of the 50 the prizes so far: tions, mayors were elected in per cent he needed to win in drenas, Kacanik, skenderaj only 10 municipalities. a sec- the first round - he got 43 per and shtime - PdK ond voting is scheduled in 24 cent by the last count. He’ll fushe Kosove, istog and municipalities on december likely faces vetevendosje’s Podujeve - ldK 1 - while there are no results shpend ahmeti, who came decan - aaK yet from Northern Kosovo. in second, with 31.6 per cent. mamusha - turkish Peo- By comparison, in the while ahmeti would seem to ple's Party 2009 elections a second have an obvious disadvan- round of elections was held tage, the fact that 57 per cent PdK lost 17,000 votes in the in 18 out of 36 municipalities, of voters decided they did not muncpailties it has won so while this time candidates for want a third term for mustafa far, compared to 2009. mayor will compete in 24 out is telling. an independent of 38 municipalities. candidate, refki suma, won ldK, meanwhile, has gained runoff in Prishtina:i t ap- in Han i elezit. 7.341 voters in its mayoral pears that isa mustafa of LdK elections, compared to 2009.

allowed those elements opposing the elections to organize,” he said. “Kosovo Police were responsible for maintaining a ground presence, but it is well known here that they lack the credibility, capacity and authority for this kind of operation,” he added. Three months ago, under the terms of the April Brussels Agreement, Koso- vo Police appointed Nenad Djuric as the new regional commander for northern Kosovo. But many see the new appoint- ment as largely symbolic and say it has yet to have real impact. “The Kosovo Police have been operating for 13 years in north Kosovo without real authority,” Krstic said. “You cannot expect things to change in such a short period of time.” Bajram Rexhepi, Kosovo Interior “The OSCE is not responsible for securi- Minister, has since defended the con- ty at elections. Yes, we were in constant duct of the police, saying they did a “rel- contact with EULEX and KFOR about the “Security is atively good job” on election day, and situation, but that is not really our role. the job of that, “this time they did their job mainly We were there to help administer and the security around and intimidating people, they Heavily armed as they should have done”. facilitate voting procedures.” euLeX police forces, did not react,” an international observer There is also a political dynamic to “Security is the job of the security officers, above, Kosovo told Prishtina Insight. deploy follow- consider, she added, asking what “the forces, Kosovo Police, EULEX and KFOR. “There was no reaction even after ing the attacks in image of Kosovo would be if the Kosovo We are not GI Joe or Rambo. OSCE staff Police, we called the regional commander for North mitrovica. Police, EULEX and KFOR went to polling are not body armour for ballot boxes, we EULEX and at left, Kosovo Mitrovica north, Nenad Djuric, at about Police inspect a stations with armored vehicles?” are civilians,” he added. KFOR. We 10.30,” the same observer added. damaged polling Nevertheless, Gaon said the OSCE are not GI Joe Shortly before the attacks occurred, site. a man, right, Muddled command chain had “felt assured that enough had been waits to vote. or Rambo. the situation became even more dis- For its part, EULEX maintains its done to guarantee the security of their OSCE staff turbing. PHotos: associated role was mainly to provide advice to the staff prior to the vote”. Asked if an evac- Press via Beta are not body “There are still groups of rather Kosovo Police and only step in if a seri- uation procedure had been set in place frightening looking young men outside ous incident occurred. But the chain of in case of serious incidents, Gaon said he armour for polling stations here, basically intim- command established for communicat- was “unable to provide information on ballot boxes, idating voters,” a journalist, Peter Ge- ing vital information about the security operational procedures”. Commenting we are oghegan, tweeted at 4:49pm. situation on the ground appears to have on videos aired on YouTube, showing civilians” The strong-arm tactics proved ef- been shaky. apparent confusion between OSCE staff fective. Turnout among Serb voters in EULEX spokesperson Dragana Niko- and Kosovo Police following the attacks, - nikola north Mitrovica was a paltry 4 per cent, lic-Solomon said the mission closely Gaon added: “You can only believe your Gaon, osCe spokesperson far lower than the 15-25 per cent of voters monitored the situation in all four north- eyes.” who cast ballots in the other Serb-major- ern municipalities, including North Kosovo’s Central Election Commis- ity municipalities in the north. Mitrovica, via operational command sion on Wednesday said voting in the af- centres. But EULEX officers, not present fected areas will be re-run on November Resistance predictable at polling stations, were dependent on 17. While steps reportedly will be taken to “What did international organi- information fed up the line by the floun- ramp up the security measures this time, sations expect to happen?” Branislav dering Kosovo Police, and by the OSCE the already fragile confidence of voters Krstic, a Mitrovica-based analyst, asks. – which has stressed in the aftermath of has been damaged. “There was strong resistance to the elec- the incidents that is not a professional “I can understand if people are con- tion here in North Mitrovica and every- security body. cerned about voting again,” Gaon said, body knew this. It shows poor planning “There appears to be some blurring “because there was a process that has al- edona Peci and understanding of the situation and confusion of roles,” OSCE spokes- ready been compromised, and violence contributed to by international organisations, which man Nikola Gaon told Prishtina Insight. broke out.” this story. 6 n November 8-21, 2013 n Prishtina Insight November 8-21, 2013 n Prishtina Insight n 7

the fetahu family has operated the te moni bakery for 60 years. family members also own two other NortH Nation 60 YEARS bakeries nearby, including one that caters to serbs. mitrovica

the clientele is diverse, reflecting the mixed Bosniak New marKet

mahala in North mitrovica. “i ask them for thea lbani- aZiZ syLejmaNi TE MONI an names for things, so i can ask them in their native BoSNIaK albanian mahala Kosovo tongue when i’m at the bakery,” a serb customer says. PoLice

despite the frequent violence in the neighborhood, mitrovica city HosPitaL iBer river the family says they have operated te moni relatively soutH trouble-free — save for a few tense moments. maiN Bridge mitrovica family prospers in serb North The Bosniak Mahala is a risky and volatile place - but for the Fetahus it’s home and a livelihood.

By Zana cimili 1954. “Despite everything, I cannot in North mitrovica abandon this place,” Haki Fetahu, Suza- na’s husband, says.

You need a thick skin to live in the Bos- Diverse clientele niak Mahala. Violence is a fact of life in As the family tells it, the bakery was this ethnically mixed neighborhood of the first business to set up shop in the North Mitrovica, and the area has seen Mahala. Over the years since then, the its share of shootings, stabbings and gre- area has become a bustling market- nade attacks over the years. place. While the shops are largely Alba- But the Fetahu family, owners of nian owned, the customers reflect the the Te Moni bakery, are not going any- diversity of the Mahala, and include a where. “We’ve become accustomed to mix of Serbs, Bosniaks and Albanians. life here. I’m not afraid, and personally, Te Moni is no exception. we’ve never had problems,” says Suzana “I ask them for the Albanian names Fetahu. for things, so I can ask them in their na- Save once, when a group of masked tive tongue when I’m at the bakery,” one men broke in. “It resolved itself peace- older Serbian customer of the bakery fully,” Fetahu recalls. When the masked says. men saw they were making bread, they But language is not much of an issue, just left, she says. as the family converses freely in Serbi- Such is life in the Mahala. an, which is not uncommon among in- The Fetahus, all six of them, are Alba- habitants of the Bosniak Mahalla. nians, members of a small community The small bakery offers a variety of of Albanians who continue to live in the local pastries and bread, stored in a glass mainly Serbian north of Mitrovica. display, surrounded by tiled walls and Originally from the Prizren area, rows of freshly baked bread. the family has lived in the Mahala since Business is going well. Haki has even BojaN sLavKovic November 8-21, 2013 n Prishtina Insight n 7

NortH mitrovica

New marKet

aZiZ syLejmaNi BoSNIaK albanian mahala Kosovo PoLice

mitrovica city HosPitaL iBer river soutH maiN Bridge mitrovica family prospers in serb North The Bosniak Mahala is a risky and volatile place - but for the Fetahus it’s home and a livelihood.

By Zana cimili 1954. “Despite everything, I cannot in North mitrovica abandon this place,” Haki Fetahu, Suza- na’s husband, says.

You need a thick skin to live in the Bos- Diverse clientele niak Mahala. Violence is a fact of life in As the family tells it, the bakery was this ethnically mixed neighborhood of the first business to set up shop in the North Mitrovica, and the area has seen Mahala. Over the years since then, the its share of shootings, stabbings and gre- area has become a bustling market- nade attacks over the years. place. While the shops are largely Alba- But the Fetahu family, owners of nian owned, the customers reflect the the Te Moni bakery, are not going any- diversity of the Mahala, and include a where. “We’ve become accustomed to mix of Serbs, Bosniaks and Albanians. life here. I’m not afraid, and personally, Te Moni is no exception. we’ve never had problems,” says Suzana “I ask them for the Albanian names Fetahu. for things, so I can ask them in their na- Save once, when a group of masked tive tongue when I’m at the bakery,” one men broke in. “It resolved itself peace- older Serbian customer of the bakery fully,” Fetahu recalls. When the masked says. men saw they were making bread, they But language is not much of an issue, just left, she says. as the family converses freely in Serbi- Such is life in the Mahala. an, which is not uncommon among in- The Fetahus, all six of them, are Alba- habitants of the Bosniak Mahalla. nians, members of a small community The small bakery offers a variety of of Albanians who continue to live in the local pastries and bread, stored in a glass mainly Serbian north of Mitrovica. display, surrounded by tiled walls and Originally from the Prizren area, rows of freshly baked bread. the family has lived in the Mahala since Business is going well. Haki has even BojaN sLavKovic 8 n November 8-21, 2013 n Prishtina Insight November 8-21, 2013 n Prishtina Insight n 9

Votes don’t live up to Nation Strong Party buzz

the Fetahu fam- ily’s bakery, te Newcomer’s results may have fallen short of some moni, is a fixture in the Bosniak expectations - but leaders seem happy they won at Bw mahala. least one single municipal assembly seat. By sonia roubini which the party ran. But preliminary results have fallen short of that. At 7pm on election night, the Strong Party held a In the race to become mayor, the Legendary press conference to announce that it had won the Leader, Visar Arifaj, received 1,213 votes, or 1.55 local elections in Kosovo with “very close to 120 per per cent, according to preliminary results. Results cent” of the vote. were slightly better in the local assembly, where The bullish statement met rousing cheers, hugs, they won 1,402 votes or 1.95 per cent. and seemingly endless rounds of “We Will Become Party leaders expect those numbers to grow Millionaires,” the party’s anthem. once final results are in. As a result, the Strong Party The premature announcement, which came appeared set to get at least one in the Prishtina city more than an hour ahead of any actual results from assembly, a small but tangible prize. BojaN sLavKovic the polls, was entirely fitting; the party has made Yll Rugova, one of the party’s founders, admit- opened a second bakery, further north, in a more bravado and over-confidence part and parcel of its ted that inflated expectations were part of a plan to solidly Serbian part of town. Two Serbian women effort to lampoon mainstream politics in Kosovo. drum up excitement. Internally, their expectations work there. Haki’s brother, Teki, has opened a bak- “We’re a The party obtained lots of attention both in were lower, he said. ery near Te Moni. large family Kosovo and in an array of international outlets, “Our bottom line was not to get below 0.8 per cent “We’re a large family with many members, and with many including the UK’s Independent and the Christian - that would be the worst nightmare,” Rugova said. we all depend on this business,” Haki continues. “If members, Science Monitor in the US. “We were hoping to beat the PDK [of Prime Minister we left, we would have nowhere to go.” “We have done a lot, and the fruits of the ballot Hashim Thaci], but were expecting 3 per cent.” and we all The Fetahus are not only surviving, they’re box are independent of the effect of what we actu- “We never asked anyone to vote for us,” Rugova thriving to some extent. The family recently bought depend on ally did,” said party supporter Vullkan Gacaferri. continued. Arifaj is expected to take up the Strong a house from a Serb. this business. But as the night rolled on – and the actual results Party’s one likely Assembly seat. If we left, we came in - it soon became clear that media attention Rugova said he would not disappoint voters. Dangerous reality would have had failed to translate into a significant number of “They will have to wait and see… our first promise Still, they acknowledge that life here can be per- nowhere to votes. Over the course of the campaign, party sup- was not to keep any of our promises,” he noted. ilous. Before the 1998-99 war, the whole of Mitrovica go.” porters and leaders tossed estimated taking 4 to 12 Rugova added that the party has every inten- was ethnically mixed. Since then, it has been divid- BojaN sLavKovic per cent of the vote in Prishtina, the municipality in tion of running in the 2014 general elections. PHoto jetmir idriZi ed between the Serb north and the Albanian south, - Haki Fetahu with the Ibar River separating them. Violence flares after 5pm for safety reasons,” says Luljeta Bytyci, Vote count in North Kosovo AdverTISeMeNT up from time to time. who works in a local boutique. nearly over. while the central The Serb north of town, like rest of the northern “There is always the possibility that things will election commission, cec, has tip of Kosovo, has been under effective rule from escalate, that a bomb might go off somewhere, or ordered a re-vote in three polling Belgrade since the end of the war. things will get violent,” says Nehat Jusufi, a resident stations in northern Kosovo, the The divisions became especially pronounced of the neighbourhood. process of counting ballots in the in 2011, when Serbs erected barricades to block rest of the north is expected to end routes from north to south in protest against the No change on the ground soon. Kosovo government’s attempt to restore its author- Despite the major strides made between Koso- Burim ahmetaj, of the count- ity in the region. vo and Serbia to normalize relations, including ing and results center, which is “We received provocations and threats, but we the landmark April agreement between the two part of the cec, said ballots had continued,” Haki says, recalling the difficult times. governments, locals say they have yet to see any now been counted in Zubin Potok, The couple’s 16-year-old daughter, Egzona, en- dividends. "while we plan to finish counting counters this division nearly every day when she Sunday’s attacks on polling stations in north today in Zvecan, Leposavic and and her siblings walk to school on the south side of Mitrovica on election day served as another stark the remaining six polling stations town. reminder of that. in mitrovica North”. “We’re constantly waiting for the situation to get Suzana Fetahu has grown tired of the promises Ballots in the mainly serbian better. There are times when groups of Serbs have made over the years to make life better in the north. northern municipalities of Kosovo tried to provoke us, but nothing serious,” she says. “I’m afraid to venture deep into the north of town, were not counted at polling sta- “However, I worry when it is calm. It seems sus- where there are more Serbs,” she says. tions, as had been forseen, after picious, like there’s something bubbling below the Haki hopes that Serbs will begin to embrace a authorities had to close them at surface,” she adds. different reality in Kosovo, one not defined by Bel- 5pm on sunday following attacks For young people, the Mahala offers few diver- grade. on three polling stations. sions, as it lacks its own cafes and bars. So, they fre- “They don’t see themselves as inhabitants of the re-vote in these polling cen- quently travel south to visit friends. Kosovo, yet they are, and should be a part of the tres takes place on November 17. The family is acutely aware of the risk that the elections and all other processes currently occur- ivica dacic, serbia's Prime min- children take when they travel back and forth. ring in Kosovo,” he says. ister, urged serbs living in these “I have other family members calling me, ask- He, too, agrees that recent political develop- areas to take part in the elections ing me whether the children went to school, be- ments have yet to translate into tangible benefits next sunday, saying they stood cause they heard that a bomb has gone off,” says for people living here. to lose out if they neglected their Suzana. “Fourteen years have passed since the war end- democratic rights. Other Albanians in the Mahala say nagging ed, and there haven’t been any positive changes in “unless serbs vote in the elec- fears are a fact of life. Mitrovica,” he says. tions, their mayor will be an ethnic “When something happens, we hide at home. “There’s no guarantee for Albanians in the albanian. good luck to them,” There is a form of curfew; most of us stay indoors north.” dacic said. November 8-21, 2013 n Prishtina Insight n 9

Votes don’t live up to Strong Party buzz Newcomer’s results may have fallen short of some expectations - but leaders seem happy they won at least one single municipal assembly seat.

By sonia roubini which the party ran. But preliminary results have fallen short of that. At 7pm on election night, the Strong Party held a In the race to become mayor, the Legendary press conference to announce that it had won the Leader, Visar Arifaj, received 1,213 votes, or 1.55 local elections in Kosovo with “very close to 120 per per cent, according to preliminary results. Results cent” of the vote. were slightly better in the local assembly, where The bullish statement met rousing cheers, hugs, they won 1,402 votes or 1.95 per cent. and seemingly endless rounds of “We Will Become Party leaders expect those numbers to grow Millionaires,” the party’s anthem. once final results are in. As a result, the Strong Party The premature announcement, which came appeared set to get at least one in the Prishtina city more than an hour ahead of any actual results from assembly, a small but tangible prize. the polls, was entirely fitting; the party has made Yll Rugova, one of the party’s founders, admit- bravado and over-confidence part and parcel of its ted that inflated expectations were part of a plan to effort to lampoon mainstream politics in Kosovo. drum up excitement. Internally, their expectations The party obtained lots of attention both in were lower, he said. Kosovo and in an array of international outlets, “Our bottom line was not to get below 0.8 per cent including the UK’s Independent and the Christian - that would be the worst nightmare,” Rugova said. Science Monitor in the US. “We were hoping to beat the PDK [of Prime Minister “We have done a lot, and the fruits of the ballot Hashim Thaci], but were expecting 3 per cent.” box are independent of the effect of what we actu- “We never asked anyone to vote for us,” Rugova ally did,” said party supporter Vullkan Gacaferri. continued. Arifaj is expected to take up the Strong But as the night rolled on – and the actual results Party’s one likely Assembly seat. came in - it soon became clear that media attention Rugova said he would not disappoint voters. had failed to translate into a significant number of “They will have to wait and see… our first promise votes. Over the course of the campaign, party sup- was not to keep any of our promises,” he noted. porters and leaders tossed estimated taking 4 to 12 Rugova added that the party has every inten- per cent of the vote in Prishtina, the municipality in tion of running in the 2014 general elections. PHoto jetmir idriZi

AdverTISeMeNT 10 n November 8-21, 2013 n Prishtina Insight November 8-21, 2013 n Prishtina Insight n 11

Bosnia ends crisis over personal First synagogue opens in Croatia bows to EU pressure on number law extradition law Centuries after the first Jews gro, said. Jews in Montenegro organized ALB Region The upper house of the ready adopted, ends a crisis that are believed to have settled themselves as a citizens' association in Croatia has agreed to Croatia did not quickly amend its law, MK Bosnian parliament has prompted months-long protests in in Montenegro, the community has finally 2011, and signing an agreement in Janu- ALB change its controversial nicknamed the ‘Lex Perkovic’, which adopted a law on personal num- the country. Confirmation of the opened a place of worship. Montenegro's ary 2012 with the government granting extradition law to conform with EU limits the application of the European For the latest news and analysis bers, bringing to a close an issue law, crucial for newborns to ob- only rabbi, Luciano Mose Prelevic, on them official minority status. According legislation by January 1 after Brussels arrest warrant to crimes committed af- that caused months of protests. The tain documents such as passports Monday formally placed the Sefer Torah to the latest data, the Jewish communi- threatened to impose sanctions. Croa- ter August 2002. The law’s nickname from around the Balkans, visit House of Peoples, the upper cham- and health care cards, was passed (the five books of Moses), in the country's ty in Montenegro numbers 110, but the tian judiciary minister Orsat Miljenic stemmed from suspicions that it was www..balkaninsight.com. ber of the Bosnian Parliament, on Tuesday in urgent procedure, first provisional synagogue, which is lo- Jewish community believes this may and European judiciary commissioner brought in to shield Josip Perkovic, a adopted changes to the Law on without discussion. The problem cated in the Jewish community centre be an underestimate. Alfandari said the Viviane Reding agreed in Brussels on former Yugoslav state security and Personal Numbers, the ID number arose when Bosnia's Constitutional in the capital, Podgorica. "Our goal is to community had received a plot of land Wednesday that Zagreb will change Croatian secret services operative given to every citizen after birth, Court deemed Article 5 of the Law preserve our faith, culture, tradition from the local authority of Podgorica to the law by January 1 and not July 1 who is wanted by Germany for ques- on November 5. The passage of the on Personal Identification Number and history," Jasa Alfandari, President build a proper synagogue and a cultural next year, as it originally intended.The tioning over the murder of a Croatian law,which the lower house has al- unconstitutional in May 2011. of the Jewish community in Montene- centre - to be completed in 2015. EU threatened to impose sanctions if businessman there in 1983.

Former anesa Kajtazovic

Born on august 30, 1986, in Bihac, Bosnia and Herzegovina refugee sets currently lives in waterloo, iowa

works as mortgage analyst and sights on serves as member of the iowa House of representatives

running for a seat on the us Congress House of representatives

member of the democratic The American Dream came true for Anesa Party Kajtazovic, who escaped the Bosnian civil war in the 1990s

By valerie Hopkins in washington

Many Americans have felt let down by their gov- “I have BIH ernment as of late on account of its recent shut- experienced down, which closed national parks and left 1.8 million people a lot of things without paychecks for weeks. that a lot of But instead of griping about the House of Representatives, one Bosnian American is actively trying to join it. If she wins people can the Democratic primary, and then the general election, she relate to. The would become the first woman ever elected to Congress from bottom line the State of Iowa. is that like Anesa Kajtazovic declared herself a candidate for one of many people, her state's four Congressional seats in August. The election my family could bring the 27-year-old into the national spotlight because was given of the importance of her state: neither Democrats nor Republi- cans have a firm hold on Iowa, at a time when most states can a second be claimed for one party or another. chance at life Despite her youth, she has been elected twice to her state in coming to legislature, the first time when she was only 24. this country. anesa Kajtazovic is a member of iowa’s House of representatives. "The electorate is tired of your typical cookie cutter candi- I share that dates,” Kajtazovic told Prishtina Insight, explaining her appeal with people “I have experienced a lot of things interning on campaigns when she dis- two elections, Kajtazovic says voters of the people who suffer in war are in- their decisions on facts and logic,” she She does not plan to return perma- to voters. “The people currently in Washington don't represent that a lot of people can relate to,” she covered a passion for politics. trust her. nocent women and children. It’s per- told Prishtina Insight. nently to the country of her birth. In fact, and they can the demographics of our country.” says. After working as a mortgage ana- Kajtazovic says her family’s experi- sonal.” Kajtazovic refuses to speculate while she has returned to Bosnia several Kajtazovic certainly does not have the usual background relate to it.” “The b ottom line is that like many lyst for several years and continuing ence, starting from scratch in America, She adds: “But I believe in diploma- about what her future holds but says her times, within the country she has never of the first congressional district. people, my family was given a second to be active with the Democratic Party, undergirds her approach to policies as a cy. My dad likes to say that all wars end long-term goal is just to “have an impact traveled east of Bihac. Born in Bihac, northwest Bosnia, of parents from Velika — Anesa chance at life in coming to this coun- she became the youngest woman ever “fighter for working class families”. around a table.” and help make people’s lives better, to “I want to visit more and I’d love to Kajtazovic Kladusa, Kajtazovic’s parents both held down good jobs at try. I share that with people and they elected to the Iowa legislature. She also says her firsthand expe- She says what has challenged her help people get more involved in poli- have more time to travel, because I will Agrokomerc, the food company, which employed 13,000 can relate to it.” “My heritage in Bosnia does not rience of war would be a factor in de- the most in her two sessions in Iowa’s tics, especially women and underrep- always have family in Bosnia,” she told people before the war began in 1992. Kajtazovic graduated from the Uni- come up a lot, it’s been more about termining her views on foreign policy, parliament is the polarization and the resented minorities”. Prishtina Insight. She and her family spent four years in Croatian refugee versity of Northern Iowa a year early, my age,” she says concerning the though not the only one. extremism of some politicians. She adds that while she speaks Bos- But she says that her parents gave camps before emigrating to Iowa in 1997, when she was ten at the age of 20, with a double major in questions she has received during “I understand the human side [of “It was surprising in some commit- nian fluently, and her heritage remains up a lot so that she and her sister, now years old and barely spoke English. business and government. She began her campaigns. But now she has won war],” she told Prishtina Insight. “Most tee debates to see some people not base important to her, Iowa is now home. 22, could live the American dream. November 8-21, 2013 n Prishtina Insight n 11

First synagogue opens in Montenegro Croatia bows to EU pressure on extradition law Centuries after the first Jews gro, said. Jews in Montenegro organized ALB are believed to have settled themselves as a citizens' association in Croatia has agreed to Croatia did not quickly amend its law, in Montenegro, the community has finally 2011, and signing an agreement in Janu- ALB change its controversial nicknamed the ‘Lex Perkovic’, which opened a place of worship. Montenegro's ary 2012 with the government granting extradition law to conform with EU limits the application of the European only rabbi, Luciano Mose Prelevic, on them official minority status. According legislation by January 1 after Brussels arrest warrant to crimes committed af- Monday formally placed the Sefer Torah to the latest data, the Jewish communi- threatened to impose sanctions. Croa- ter August 2002. The law’s nickname (the five books of Moses), in the country's ty in Montenegro numbers 110, but the tian judiciary minister Orsat Miljenic stemmed from suspicions that it was first provisional synagogue, which is lo- Jewish community believes this may and European judiciary commissioner brought in to shield Josip Perkovic, a cated in the Jewish community centre be an underestimate. Alfandari said the Viviane Reding agreed in Brussels on former Yugoslav state security and in the capital, Podgorica. "Our goal is to community had received a plot of land Wednesday that Zagreb will change Croatian secret services operative preserve our faith, culture, tradition from the local authority of Podgorica to the law by January 1 and not July 1 who is wanted by Germany for ques- and history," Jasa Alfandari, President build a proper synagogue and a cultural next year, as it originally intended.The tioning over the murder of a Croatian of the Jewish community in Montene- centre - to be completed in 2015. EU threatened to impose sanctions if businessman there in 1983.

anesa Kajtazovic

Born on august 30, 1986, in Bihac, Bosnia and Herzegovina currently lives in waterloo, iowa

works as mortgage analyst and serves as member of the iowa House of representatives

running for a seat on the us House of representatives

member of the democratic Party

two elections, Kajtazovic says voters of the people who suffer in war are in- their decisions on facts and logic,” she She does not plan to return perma- trust her. nocent women and children. It’s per- told Prishtina Insight. nently to the country of her birth. In fact, Kajtazovic says her family’s experi- sonal.” Kajtazovic refuses to speculate while she has returned to Bosnia several ence, starting from scratch in America, She adds: “But I believe in diploma- about what her future holds but says her times, within the country she has never undergirds her approach to policies as a cy. My dad likes to say that all wars end long-term goal is just to “have an impact traveled east of Bihac. “fighter for working class families”. around a table.” and help make people’s lives better, to “I want to visit more and I’d love to She also says her firsthand expe- She says what has challenged her help people get more involved in poli- have more time to travel, because I will rience of war would be a factor in de- the most in her two sessions in Iowa’s tics, especially women and underrep- always have family in Bosnia,” she told termining her views on foreign policy, parliament is the polarization and the resented minorities”. Prishtina Insight. though not the only one. extremism of some politicians. She adds that while she speaks Bos- But she says that her parents gave “I understand the human side [of “It was surprising in some commit- nian fluently, and her heritage remains up a lot so that she and her sister, now war],” she told Prishtina Insight. “Most tee debates to see some people not base important to her, Iowa is now home. 22, could live the American dream. 12 n November 8-21, 2013 n Prishtina Insight November 8-21, 2013 n Prishtina Insight n 13

Miqt prepares tavern spinoff The people behind the beloved bar Miqt are putting the finishing touches on a four stars: Perfection three stars: superb new tavern in Prishtina’s centre - just off Mother Teresa. We’re told it’ll feature two Stars: good one Star: just oK MIQT traditional food and a menu that changes daily. The opening isn’t set yet, but No Star: don’t Bother it’s expected in the next two weeks or so. Keep posted at www.facebook.com/ SUPeRB MIQT.NET. « « fYI piguide « «

WHERE Pallet lounge 01 Pallet lounge is an newly opened, exquisite cafe restaurant that offers Tradita is delightfully traditional TO PICK UP a variety of multicultural dishes and drinks. it is located right across PRISHTINA the auK university in the outskirts Tradita occupies an old house in experiences outside of Prishtina. My of the city, surrounded by nature. Prishtina’s Centre. The restaurant friend’s portion of traditional pie with INSIGHT gërmia road (across auK) +386 (0)49 880-777 palletlounge@ as traditional as its name and fills a spinach (3 euro) was carefully pre- gmail.com facebook.com/Pallet much-needed void in restaurants fo- sented on a wooden board, alongside cusing on simple, old-timey Albanian pleasantly sharp cheese and a bowl of hotel Prishtina lounge Papillon Bistro Bar 02 food in all of its glory. fresh creamy yogurt. The bread itself - 06 Hotel Prishtina’s 43 charming guest Papillon offers more than 60 types The menu at Tradita is vast, cover- more of a slice of cornbread than a pie rooms and suites are reminiscent of a of wines from france, italy, spain, ing traditional breads and appetizers, - was buttery, fresh, and much fluffier small hotel in the european tradition. and Kosovo with great prices and the hotel offers free, fast wifi internet, delicious dishes. you can also try a wide selection of tavas, grilled meats, than the other corn-based breads that complimentary breakfast, conference different types of local or interna- and salads. They also offer I’ve tried in Kosovo. room, swimming pool, sauna and laun- tional beers. mother teresa str. Nr. lamb, kid goat, and baked “vil- My own portion of peppers dry service. Hotel Prishtina, st. vaso 51 a [email protected] Pasha nr. 20, +381 38 / 22 32 84. 044 103 310 lage chicken” to order for larger in cream was really more like groups - an appealing prospect. eat peppers and chunks of curd but hotel afa Pizza Napoli 03 Tradita’s decor is cozy, much was surprisingly tasty—though 07 a taste of Napoli in Prishtina. after ten Located in a quiet neighbourhood just outside the city centre, Hotel like what you’d expect at a restaurant I admittedly missed the bubbling years of making pizza in Napoli, and with only love to blame, fatmir, the afa can guarantee guests a peace- that focuses on tavas and tradition- creaminess that the dish usually em- head chef, returned to Prishtina. His ful night while being within walking al breads. Wood paneling lining the bodies. pizzas, made in a woodburn stove, are distance of all the action. rooms start at 45 euro for a single, and walls, and a wood stove raging in the For my main, I opted for a Gjakova definitely genuine napolitanas. fatmir also has several delicious pastas on of- luxury rooms and apartments are middle of the restaurant all contribute tava (7 euro), which arrived still bub- was a bit dry, but was served in a deli- ReStaURaNt tRadIta fer, a true joy for the taste buds. Pizze- available. the hotel’s rooms are to the feeling of eating in the country- bling from the oven. Once the temper- cious and tangy tomato reduction. Parking lot behind Tingle Tangle, Prishtina. ria Napoli off Luan Haradinaj, opposite well appointed and comfortable. side, well outside of the hustle and bus- ature of the dish cooled down, I was The addition of basil to the sauce was Open daily, 8am to midnight Newborn. 044/409-402402 15, rr ali Kelmendi, sunny Hill, Prishtina +381 38/225 226 www. Contact: +377 (0) 45 282 222 tle of Prishtina. able to appreciate the tenderness of a welcome surprise, and made the dish hotel gracanica hotelafa.com Tradita is clearly a family-run es- the beef, and the succulent but not too a bit more interesting than the average Parking lot behind Tingle Tangle 04 a place to relax in the calm and clean tablishment. My dining partner and salty sauce, flavored with just the right chicken breast served here in town. 8:00 – 12:00. +377 45 282 222 air of the countryside, just 15 minute sfrom Prishtina city center, 500 m I arrived on the early side of dinner amount of tomato and pepper. The cozy and pleasant meal was from the center of gracanica and its service, accidentally interrupting The dish was rounded off nicely rounded off by two servings of ti- Tradita is be the perfect restaurant uNesco world Heritage monastery the family’s meal, and were doted on by the house red, a Vranac that was ramisu, brought to us on the house. for those craving a traditional meal and a short walk to the archeological throughout the meal by the chef and full and not too dry. In general, I was The tiramisu was easily the best and a night off from the fast-paced city site of ulpiana. the boutique hotel combines contemporary architecture his sons. pleasantly surprised by the breadth of that I’ve had in Prishtina, with lay- lifestyle, but be aware that you will still with traditional elements to create We opted to try some of the most a unique atmosphere that will make the wine menu, which featured some ers of cake soaked in espresso, and pay city prices (mains 5 – 10 euro). Still, A traditional dishes, to see how they good Macedonian wines. nestled between creamy filling that it is a solid addition to Prishtina’s res- you feel at home. +381 (0)38 729 888 05 (landline) +386 (0)49 764 000 stacked up to our traditional culinary My friend’s grilled chicken (6 euro) was sweet, but not sickeningly so. taurant scene. [email protected] www.hotelgracanica.com www.facebook.com/Hotelgracanica EAT EAT DRINK 07 edS SHOP

06 02 LegeNd reborN at Mhz bar kLUb > Within MiNgLe: a New destiNatioN for menu also feels that way - with things like Apple and B 03 the wide spectrum of colors, you will find yourself cocktaiLs > Mingle gets points for being a devoted Chocolate Martinis, alongside Tom Collinses and Bloody a amazed by the music, company of good people and B purveyor of alcoholic concoctions - cocktails if you like. Marys. My sense is that the barman knows what’s he constantly surprised by the interior design. Mhz Bar It gets even more points by offering an Old Fashioned doing - but feels like he’s giving Prishtina’s drinkers Klub is the newest addition to t >he Pristine nightlife (misspelled as Old Fashion on the what they want. The choices are safe, and scene, but people will still remember its name. In menu.) The Old Fashioned is, aren’t particularly alcohol forward. In 2000, the first Mhz opened and it was the most by some accounts, the first other words, they aren’t really in the Ninety one popular club at the time. With a new location, recorded cocktail. It’s pretty line with where contemporary 05 the Ninety one (91-shi) is back the owner is living up to its legacy. What simple. Typically it’s an cocktail culture is elsewhere in A with its new location and old tradi- tion. the owners and the staff are makes Mhz Klub Bar interesting is that American whiskey, with Europe and in the U.S. Hopeful- the same. the breakfast is still the club has two separate floors that each a little sugar, Angostura ly that will change with time, served as usual while the coffee is have different music, themes and designs. bitters and Orange or though. - Nate Tabak served with delicious homemade almond biscotti. the new menu Mhz Bar Klub is definitely a place to discover, Lemon peel, and ice. It’s Location: Robert Doll Street, includes: roast fillet of beef especially during winter time. Vivid colors , a tough beverage to find in after Creme de la Creme, Prishtina. served with spinach potatoes & selected soul music and welcoming people will Kosovo, let alone the region. Hours: 8pm to 4am, Wednesday, wine, chicken and confit garlic in cheer you up on those grey and cold winter days. Mingle’s Old Fashioned is too sweet Friday and Saturday. minglebar bed of mash & thyme juice. the kitchen is open every day until 11:00 - Eronida Mataj for most purists, but it was still served 04 pm. fehmi agani str., 29/2 (te kafet Location: Luan Haradinaj Street at Kino ABC-1, beautifully. e vogla) - 044 91 91 91 Prishtina. Open: Open Wednesday-Saturday, 11pm to The place sort of feels like a bar in London or New York 4am. Contact : +386 (0) 49 660 066 in 1991 - it has sort of a dark red and satiny feel. The November 8-21, 2013 n Prishtina Insight n 13

Miqt prepares tavern spinoff The people behind the beloved bar Miqt are putting the finishing touches on a new tavern in Prishtina’s centre - just off Mother Teresa. We’re told it’ll feature MIQT traditional food and a menu that changes daily. The opening isn’t set yet, but it’s expected in the next two weeks or so. Keep posted at www.facebook.com/ fYI MIQT.NET.

WHERE Pallet lounge 01 Pallet lounge is an newly opened, exquisite cafe restaurant that offers TO PICK UP a variety of multicultural dishes and drinks. it is located right across PRISHTINA the auK university in the outskirts of the city, surrounded by nature. INSIGHT gërmia road (across auK) +386 (0)49 880-777 palletlounge@ gmail.com facebook.com/Pallet

hotel Prishtina lounge Papillon Bistro Bar 02 06 Hotel Prishtina’s 43 charming guest Papillon offers more than 60 types rooms and suites are reminiscent of a of wines from france, italy, spain, small hotel in the european tradition. and Kosovo with great prices and the hotel offers free, fast wifi internet, delicious dishes. you can also try complimentary breakfast, conference different types of local or interna- room, swimming pool, sauna and laun- tional beers. mother teresa str. Nr. dry service. Hotel Prishtina, st. vaso 51 a [email protected] Pasha nr. 20, +381 38 / 22 32 84. 044 103 310

hotel afa Pizza Napoli 03 07 a taste of Napoli in Prishtina. after ten Located in a quiet neighbourhood years of making pizza in Napoli, and just outside the city centre, Hotel with only love to blame, fatmir, the afa can guarantee guests a peace- head chef, returned to Prishtina. His ful night while being within walking pizzas, made in a woodburn stove, are distance of all the action. rooms definitely genuine napolitanas. fatmir start at 45 euro for a single, and also has several delicious pastas on of- luxury rooms and apartments are fer, a true joy for the taste buds. Pizze- available. the hotel’s rooms are ria Napoli off Luan Haradinaj, opposite well appointed and comfortable. Newborn. 044/409-402402 15, rr ali Kelmendi, sunny Hill, Prishtina +381 38/225 226 www. hotel gracanica hotelafa.com 04 a place to relax in the calm and clean air of the countryside, just 15 minute sfrom Prishtina city center, 500 m from the center of gracanica and its uNesco world Heritage monastery and a short walk to the archeological site of ulpiana. the boutique hotel combines contemporary architecture with traditional elements to create a unique atmosphere that will make A you feel at home. +381 (0)38 729 888 05 (landline) +386 (0)49 764 000 [email protected] www.hotelgracanica.com www.facebook.com/Hotelgracanica EAT 07

06 02 B 03

the Ninety one 05 the Ninety one (91-shi) is back A with its new location and old tradi- tion. the owners and the staff are the same. the breakfast is still served as usual while the coffee is served with delicious homemade almond biscotti. the new menu includes: roast fillet of beef served with spinach potatoes & wine, chicken and confit garlic in bed of mash & thyme juice. the kitchen is open every day until 11:00 04 pm. fehmi agani str., 29/2 (te kafet e vogla) - 044 91 91 91 14 n November 8-21, 2013 n Prishtina Insight November 8-21, 2013 n Prishtina Insight n 15

movember in Kosovo for more information about mo- vember and team mosovo, visit www.facebook.com/mosovo.

Opinion cLassic aLBaNiaN cooKiNg iN tHe Heart of PrisHtiNa >> Page 12 Send us your thoughts to [email protected]. culture

Bw 2003. It has since become a global Kosovo mustaches movement, with more than 3 million participants from 21 countries world- The veteran versus the reformer: get the recognition wide. In 2012, 1.1 million joined the in- ternational campaign and raised more than 100 million euro. Who’s best for Prishtina? they deserve Male participants are called "Mo Bros," and draw attention to prostate By donjeta mejtani group, "Burrat me mustaqe", on the cancer and men’s health in general, if there are signs, are mainly difficul- he fight for Prishtina 100th anniversary of 's inde- which is often ignored. Female partic- ties in urination, difficult urination, is far from over. This On November 1, men shaved their fac- pendence last year, joined the Mo- ipants are called "Mo sistas" who sup- and in more advanced cases is pain in month, Prishtina voters es, but left their mustaches to grow. vember movement. “It was perfect for port fathers, brothers and loved ones. the middle and back," says urologist will have to choose from Many consider November the us, because it launched the campaign Participants register on the official Fahredin Veselaj, Director of the Urol- two very different can- mustache month, Movember. World- more and more, and there were more website movember.com and through- ogy Clinic, at the Hospital of Prishtina. Tdidates with two very different visions wide people grow mustaches to raise people growing mustaches,” says Be- out the month, they upload pictures Movember movement endorses for the city: incumbent mayor and money for prostate cancer. Movember tim Bekteshi, founder of Movember in of their mustache progress. With their frequent medical checkups, in order veteran LDK politician Isa Mustafa, and is a charity that raises awareness to de- Kosovo, profiles, members can raise money to prevent or to detect prostate cancer Vetevendosje moderate and would-be tect and treat the disease, and to sup- "In fact, "Burrat me mustaqe" itself, from those who access the site. in the early stages, so it is easier to cure. reformer Shpend Ahmeti. Tonight, port those who are diagnosed with it. as a movement, is also inspired by the One in 6 men are diagnosed with In a country where people only Ahmeti and Mustafa have their first Last year in November, marked the global Movember movement. They prostate cancer. It is the second most seek medical attention if they have one on one debate on RTK - this will first Movember in Kosovo. This year, both have a similar purpose: organ- deadly disease for men, after lung can- pain, Dr. Veselaj recommends that be the first chance voters get to see the Kosovo isa properly recognised Mo- izing and motivating the right people cer. If men are diagnosed soon enough, Kosovars attend annual checkups. two candidates’ programs side by side, vember country. for citizen activism", says Artrit Bytyci, most will not die from the disease. "In Kosovo there are opportunities so to speak. Coincidentally, Albania’s Inde- Founder of "Burrat me mustaqe". "The problem is that prostate can- to be diagnosed early, men especially LDK and Vetevendosje diehards pendence Day on Nov. 28 also falls in The Movember organization was cer if not tested, not followed, the first over the age of 45, should do health have more or less been accounted for. the same month as Movember. The created in Melbourne, Australia, in symptoms come later. And these signs, tests at least once a year," he says. It will be the candidates’ job to win over

the undecided and the supporters of AdverTISeMeNT parties not in the running for mayor’s office. In this runoff, it’ll take more than charm or party loyalty to win the vote, Isa Mustafa it will take winning ideas. In that sense, Pros: He’s been around forever. He it’s worth looking at the plans that un- knows what works in terms of city HaNa marKu derpin the two candidates campaigns. politics and what doesn’t. coNs: He’s been around forever. In Shpend Ahmeti the past seven years that Mustafa has Pros: Young, energetic, Harvard been in office, many basic problems in An accountable mayor educated. Ahmeti could be the breath Prishtina have yet to be resolved, such of fresh air that Prishtina needs - par- as illegal construction, traffic lights, could start the diffi- ticularly in a municipal administration parking spaces and infrastructure. that currently moves at about the pace Why reward him with another term? cult task of undoing all of an iceberg. the PLaN: Mustafa must have his coNs: Skeptical voters want to hands full managing both the mu- the harm that has been know if voting for Ahmeti also means nicipality of Prishtina and being the voting for , Vetevendosje’s head of his party, because there is no done to the city since the not-so-moderate leader. Running a city comprehensive LDK plan for Prishti- is in many ways a technical job, not na that I could find on his website, or end of the war and leave a political one. What will happen the anywhere else. There’s a municipal next time a Vetevendosje protest in plan for the development of Prishtina a structure of develop- Prishtina turns ugly? (available on the municipality’s web- the PLaN: Ahmeti’s program is easy site) that highlights things like road ment in place for the to find on his campaign website, and and transportation infrastructure, is also easy to understand. So far there urban density, and pedestrian areas next generation. are plans in place for health, basic - however, there’s no strategy in place infrastructure, education, urban plan- for exactly how to get to the projected ning, public transportation, arts and aims of the plan. culture, and the local economy. The Prishtina residents should pay the harm that has been done to the city improvements proposed are straight- close attention to the the next few since the end of the war and leave a forward: expanding primary health weeks of campaigning and TV de- structure of development in place for care, free cafeteria food for students, bates. It will determine the shape the the next generation of those who will Hana marku is clean public transportation and locally municipality takes not only over the live here. With all the money, power, online manag- sourced marketplaces - ideas so simple next mandate, but over the next few and influence that goes with the posi- ing editor of it’s strange to think no one thought of decades. An accountable mayor could tion, voters should demand nothing Kosovo 2.0. them before. start the difficult task of undoing all less of their future mayor. Call us: +377 (0) 44 11 11 11 l +381 (0) 38 22 22 80 November 8-21, 2013 n Prishtina Insight n 15

movember in Kosovo for more information about mo- vember and team mosovo, visit www.facebook.com/mosovo.

culturecLassic aLBaNiaN cooKiNg iN tHe Heart of PrisHtiNa >> Page 12

2003. It has since become a global Kosovo mustaches movement, with more than 3 million participants from 21 countries world- get the recognition wide. In 2012, 1.1 million joined the in- ternational campaign and raised more than 100 million euro. they deserve Male participants are called "Mo Bros," and draw attention to prostate By donjeta mejtani group, "Burrat me mustaqe", on the cancer and men’s health in general, if there are signs, are mainly difficul- 100th anniversary of Albania's inde- which is often ignored. Female partic- ties in urination, difficult urination, On November 1, men shaved their fac- pendence last year, joined the Mo- ipants are called "Mo sistas" who sup- and in more advanced cases is pain in es, but left their mustaches to grow. vember movement. “It was perfect for port fathers, brothers and loved ones. the middle and back," says urologist Many consider November the us, because it launched the campaign Participants register on the official Fahredin Veselaj, Director of the Urol- mustache month, Movember. World- more and more, and there were more website movember.com and through- ogy Clinic, at the Hospital of Prishtina. wide people grow mustaches to raise people growing mustaches,” says Be- out the month, they upload pictures Movember movement endorses money for prostate cancer. Movember tim Bekteshi, founder of Movember in of their mustache progress. With their frequent medical checkups, in order is a charity that raises awareness to de- Kosovo, profiles, members can raise money to prevent or to detect prostate cancer tect and treat the disease, and to sup- "In fact, "Burrat me mustaqe" itself, from those who access the site. in the early stages, so it is easier to cure. port those who are diagnosed with it. as a movement, is also inspired by the One in 6 men are diagnosed with In a country where people only Last year in November, marked the global Movember movement. They prostate cancer. It is the second most seek medical attention if they have first Movember in Kosovo. This year, both have a similar purpose: organ- deadly disease for men, after lung can- pain, Dr. Veselaj recommends that Kosovo isa properly recognised Mo- izing and motivating the right people cer. If men are diagnosed soon enough, Kosovars attend annual checkups. vember country. for citizen activism", says Artrit Bytyci, most will not die from the disease. "In Kosovo there are opportunities Coincidentally, Albania’s Inde- Founder of "Burrat me mustaqe". "The problem is that prostate can- to be diagnosed early, men especially pendence Day on Nov. 28 also falls in The Movember organization was cer if not tested, not followed, the first over the age of 45, should do health the same month as Movember. The created in Melbourne, Australia, in symptoms come later. And these signs, tests at least once a year," he says.

AdverTISeMeNT

Call us: +377 (0) 44 11 11 11 l +381 (0) 38 22 22 80 16 n November 8-21, 2013 n Prishtina Insight