Volume 36 Issue 1 in Flood Bob Turner Track, Wollemi NP Summer 2011 Did you really want to be here?

Bulley Creek near Cobberas, KNP. Photo by Roger Caffin

Colo River at Canoe Creek, Wollemi NP. Photo by Roger Caffin

Highlighting our recent heavy rains and floods. You normally step over Bulley Creek without noticing it. The high sandy beach at Canoe Creek is many metres below the surface. A little ford on the upper : a 4WD was lost in the river nearby.

Capertee River, Capertee NP. Photo by Michael Keats Walk Safely—Walk with a Club

T h e Bushwalker The Official Publication of the Confederation of Bushwalking Clubs NSW From the Volume 36, Issue 1, Summer 2011 ISSN 0313 2684 editor’s desk. . .

Editor: Roger Caffin ell, the recent rains have been ... interesting. The front [email protected] cover shows the bottom end of the Bob Turner Track (off Graphic Design & Assembly: the ) when the Colo went from its normal quiet Barry Hanlon W 0.9 m at the river gauge up to a peak of 10.5 metres. We Proofreader: Cindy Wilkinson went up there at the peak to take photos, not to get in the river! It Confederation Officers: was, as I said, interesting to see. President: Dodie Green The inside cover photos are more of the same. You normally just hop Administration Officer: over Bulley Creek (beside the Cobberas) in Kosciusko NP, but the [email protected] ground was already saturated and we had experienced a heavy Website: www.bushwalking.org.au thunderstorm during the night. The lightening was directly overhead, and the flashes nearly burnt out my eyeballs - through my closed The Confederation of Bushwalking Clubs NSW Inc represents eyelids. Our guess was that Stoney Creek and Limestone Creek further approximately 66 Clubs with a total south along the AAWT would be impassible. We had morning tea on membership of about 8,700 the rock shelf above the Canoe Creek junction and watched huge trees bushwalkers. float down the river. The foam swirled across the surface. As for the Capertee River near Macquarie Park - well, it isn’t normally quite that Formed in 1932, the Confederation large. There is a story about someone who unfortunately tried to drive provides a united voice on behalf of all through it further on in a petrol-engine 4WD, but had to abandon it bushwalkers on conservation, access half-way across. The car was written off, but the passengers escaped. and other issues. The bottom line is “Please take care”. People interested in joining a bush- walking club may write to the Articles for Publication Confederation Administration I would like to thank the people who have been sending in articles for publication [email protected] recently. I can’t get all of them into a single issue, so I have had to hold some in for a list of Clubs, but a far more reserve for another issue. But rest assured that every one of them will get serious useful on-line list is available at the attention. Confederation website We had an article recently about Volleys and footwear. This seems to have spurred www.bushwalking.org.au, some people to start writing, so expect some more amusing articles on this subject broken up into areas. There’s lots of soon. Some interesting historical photos have been found featuring leather boots, hobnails and the like as well. Fortunately, big heavy boots are a thing of the past. other good stuff there too, including Anyhow, please keep those articles rolling in. We need them. Plain text please, and the bushwalking FAQ. original unedited photos direct from the camera. If you want to include a DOC file or a PDF (in addition to the plain text) to illustrate the sort of layout you have in mind, please do so as well. Please note that opinions expressed by authors may not represent the official opinions of the Confederation or any Club. The Editor’s opinions are his own, if he can find them. Roger Caffin, Editor

Su b scri b e to T h e B u sh wal k er Keep u p w i t h al l t h e n ew s an d devel o pm en t s Index h appen i n g i n t h e NSW bu sh w al k i n g scen e fo r Did you really want to be here? 2 o n l y $10 per y ear. Th i s i s t o co ver po st i n g an d h an dl i n g: t h e m agaz i n e i t sel f i s free. From the Editor’s Desk 3 Budawangs 4 Sen d y o u r n am e an d address an d ch equ e o r m o n ey o rder t o t h e Con fed erati on of B u sh - A Day of the Senses 6 wal k i n g Cl u b s NSW In c, PO Bo x 119, New - Western Arthurs, July 8 t o w n NSW 2042. Th e n ew ph o n e n u m ber i s 9565 4005. M ak e t h e ch equ e o r m o n ey o rder Breathless on Baruntse 10 pay abl e t o t h e Con fed erati on of B u sh wal k - Walking in the Outback 11 i n g Cl u b s NSW In c as w el l : pl ease do n o t ab- brevi at e t h e n am e! Jungaburra in the Snow 14 Pl ease i n di cat e w h i ch i ssu e y o u w an t y o u r su b- Navshield 2011 15 scri pt i o n t o st art w i t h . W e do n ’ t w an t t o du pl i - Letters to the Editor 15 cat e co pi es y o u al ready h ave.

Errata: The recent article “Wandering the Snowies” was wrongly Fron t Cov er: C o l o Ri ver at Bo b Tu rn er Track , attributed. Our apologies about this. Graham Lee tells me that the W o l l em i Nat i o n al Park . Ph o t o by Ro ger C affi n . correct attribution is Joan Young of the Happy Wanderers. Ed.

Volume 36, Issue 1, Summer 2011 The Bushwalker | 3 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club

Steve Deards Sutherland Bushwalking Club

Dummal Creek waterfall

he walk started at the Mt immediately obvious, but it was found a Yagoona Pigeon Club! I know that many Bushwalker car park in fine little higher up the slope above the creek. pigeons are taken by Peregrine Falcons, so Tweather. We followed the track past From the cave, it was only 100 m to the I guess that the pigeon had been one of Mt Bushwalker to a nice lookout point cliff edge & great views. Water was also those. Claydon Creek was reached mid- above Claydon Ck with good views of The abundant. Pigeon House was painted red afternoon, & we found an acceptable Castle, Mt Talaterang & Pigeon House. when the sun set behind the Castle. camp in rainforest about 200 m upstream After consuming morning tea, we Next morning we had to negotiate our from the river junction on the true right. continued to Gadara Point, then down way back across the mountain to the pass On the third day we continued onto a ridge which we followed to the of yesterday, then down the pass & upstream, crossing it as necessary. The base of Mt Talaterang. It is quite a steep northward to the saddle above Dummal creek banks weren’t as clear of scramble up to the cliff line at the Creek. Some of us had been here before, undergrowth as those of the Clyde, but mountains northern end. Somehow we so we knew that we had to stay high we made good progress, reaching the missed the obvious pass up onto the under the cliffs to avoid the thick lawyer junction with an unnamed creek by mountain top 200 m to the south, so vines lower down. When the saddle was lunchtime. We all had wet feet except for scrub bashing was the order until we reached, we walked down the ridge above John, who had gone to extreme lengths to could pick up the faint track which leads the creek, keeping clear of the thick stay dry. There is supposed to be a track to the visitors book. We also missed the growth in the creek. After about 1 km, we from this creek junction up to Gaol House book this time but the track, which is now descended into Dummal Ck, hoping to Pass, and thence up through the cliff line becoming overgrown, could be followed enter it below a small waterfall which is back onto Mt Bushwalker. We couldn’t to the south-western point where there is difficult to get around. Dummal Ck is very find the lower section of the track, so we a pass down to the lower levels. I had steep & choked with slippery boulders, so had a tough climb up to the bottom line of been told that another pass existed to get progress with heavy packs is slow. At one cliffs, contouring across the steep slope & onto the southern end of the mount, but point, we had to detour around a drop in finding a route through the massive that’s all I knew. It was like looking for a the creek & descend a mildly hairy slope boulders that had fallen from the tops needle in a haystack, but eventually we back into the creek below the drop. above. found it by going down the top pass then The creek bed is an obstacle course & Once at the cliff line, we headed east contouring around to the east. very tiring but eventually it flattened out along the base until we came to a creek & Once onto the southern part of the just before the junction with the Clyde waterfall which flowed from the plateau mountain, we had to pick a way through River. We had lunch here & contemplated above. On the other side of this, we the thick scrub to our goal of a camping the next stage of the walk, a 4 km traverse picked up the track at last and after some cave at the southern cliff line. Things along the river up to Claydon Creek. very steep walking and occasionally losing were going well until we realized that the Refreshed & ready to go, we followed the the track, we reached the pass. The route rocky leads had pushed us too far down, river upstream, crossing from side to side here is cairned in places and the pass is so we had to push through thick scrub as necessary. Surprisingly, there are river quite an interesting place. The track again to the top. However, once at the terraces along much of this section, so weaves in and out of grottos, ravines and top, we were rewarded with fantastic walking was fairly straight forward, with rainforest. When we reached the main views over Byangee Walls & Pigeon only an occasional obstacle or thick track again, we had lunch and thought House, both just across the valley. We scrubby patch to avoid. At one rest stop, I back on our 3 day adventure. All in all, it could see the creek that we were aiming found the body of a bird minus the head. had been a challenging walk but with for, but getting there proved to be difficult Col noticed that it had been banded, so he many rewards. due to thick scrub & many small ravines. removed it. Subsequent enquiries revealed Once at the creek, the cave wasn’t that it was a racing pigeon from the Well worth the effort.t

4 | The Bushwalker Volume 36, Issue 1, Summer 2011

Pidgeonhouse Mountain Camp in the rainforest

Walk Safely—Walk with a Club

As I did I reflected on what I’d heard the night before from one Don Hitchcock. I learned that for every 100 metres you descend into the gorges you can add one degree of temperature. I learned that the “island” separating Chandler and Wollomombi gorges isn’t actually an island but a ridge and that years ago the University Climbing club were out there taking photos on the end of the ridge just before they packed up and moved on. 30 seconds later the section where they’d been suddenly collapsed entirely into the Mist on the plateau gorge below. Whether there was a mass purchase of lottery tickets the next day small causeway just after the turnoff even isn’t recorded. had water over it, something I had never I learned that a lyre bird, the world’s seen before. It augured well. greatest mimic, used to whistle a flute I was a tad surprised to see an early solo from Vivaldi that a wood worker model Mitsubishi campervan already in from England used to play every attendance with the occupiers having afternoon. I learned that when he goes breakfast in the covered picnic area. It walking, Don uses the minimalist was real “Gorillas in the mist” type stuff. I approach to the point where he manu- opted for a nap before heading out, by factures his own gear. If you buy a then the rain had eased to almost nothing “lightweight” tent from a retailer it weighs but the fog was still intense; though I 1.2 to 1.6 kg. Don makes his own and it noticed that over the 10 minutes I took to weighs in at 450 g, 600 g with the pole. get ready, visibility had doubled to about He imports his fabric from a place in 200 metres, so I took a punt and headed Wollomombi Gorge America. out. No sooner had I alighted than I heard The piece de resistance however was a reverberating crash in the forest. How when Don climbed down beside Dangars many times had I seen fallen trees and Falls at the start of a multi-day hike. His wondered if they made a racket when first night was beneath the cliffs on a rock they fell. I had a first hand answer now, strewn area. No sooner had he set up his and it was awesome as the heavy tent on his li-lo (the only time he has ever branches wrought havoc amongst nearby used it) when the rocks started to fall. vegetation, though all invisible to me. Turns out they were coming from feral Off along the trail I trod, through the goats on high. The torrent continued Spanish-moss covered trees whose twisted until one smashed a hole in his tent. So trunks lent a ghost like quality to the terrified was he that he clasped his EPIRB experience. Choughs scattered before me next to his chest with the thought that if as I walked further, their squawking the some rocks came and trapped his legs he only noise I could hear above the could still set his beacon off. Needless to almighty roar of Wollomombi. It was say, there was no sleep that night. simply an unforgettable sensory As my motorhome splashed along the experience to hear one of the great Ian Smith my sense of anticipation waterfalls of so close yet be rose, especially when we crossed the farm unable to see it. The mist closed in again streams running a bunker where there as I neared the lookout so I fiddled t was raining.....again or still, take had hardly been any water for the around taking atmospheric shots of the your pick. I’d parked at the end of a previous decade. At least their dams vegetation that clung in desperation to Ishort dirt road where the Armidale would be full, something that hadn’t the cliffs, eking an existence out of the Tree Group had their headquarters. It happened according to the ABC local sparse soils that lay upon the top of rock was quiet but muddy and the rain, light radio I was listening to. They specifically remnants. A small flock of thorn bills now, was consistent. Not a good day for mentioned that the Wollomombi area had cheekily bounced around the branches photographing birds, more your day for missed most of the recent rain and that beside me while all around the dogwood waterfalls. Thus it came to pass that I the dams weren’t yet full. They must displayed its beautiful yellow hues. headed out for Wollomombi, arguably have been the only ones in the entire I turned around to pack my camera Australia’s most spectacular gorge. Eastern Australia region that weren’t. The away and there, right before me, was the and BIMBIPARK Individual walkers Do the whole walk from 1 central point Small walking groups or just drop in. 5 day walking package Includes: 5 nights accommodation, Large walking groups 5 shuttles, Linen, Self catered, Self 1 to 7 day walks guided, Standard cabin, off peak. Guided and self guided Cost twin share: walks $395.00 p/p ($780.00 total) Cost triple share: In house shuttle service $290.00 p/p ($870.00 total) Self or fully catered www.bimbipark.com.au - ph (03) 5237 9246

6 | The Bushwalker Volume 36, Issue 1, Summer 2011 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club

áWollomombi falls through the mist Junction of Wollomombi and Chandler Gorgesà might of Wollomombi revealed in all its glory, framed by the drifting fog. The water furiously threw itself down the cliff face in ever-changing patterns of foamy maelstroms. Wave upon wave alternatively advanced and retreated, seemingly reaching for some kind of freedom in an epic display of nature’s might, sending out wispy furls like moist sunspots. The raging waters of the river were the dark brown colour of the soils they carried seaward from the plains above. The jagged spur that splits the Wollomombi and Chandler gorges stood like a sentinel over the scene, parting the two great conflicts until they could be managed more easily downstream. The afternoon before I’d spent in much more tranquil surroundings, surveying the limpid waters of and watching the many types of dragonflies darting around to the symphony of a few birds that chirruped in the background. The bleach white cumulus were reflected in the ponds but all too soon they became cumulonimbus and an ominous grey band descended from the west. It had dumped its load overnight and that led to the rushing waters of today. I had lunch back at HQ and set out again, this time with a DECCW (NPWS) worker called Matt. He was going to see if the bridge across the Wollomombi was still there. It was, but it was in trouble as the raging waters tried desperately to remove it. A couple of other tourists contemplated the torrent in awe, an emotion I suspect we were all feeling. A little further down it made normally pleasant rapids a seething maelstrom with swirling, crashing volumes of brown sludge cascading onwards, drawn inevitably by gravity’s force. To the side there were a few rivulets whose paths I’d noted before but never seen running. Today they were happily gurgling through the forest, painting a more benign picture than that into which they flowed. Tiny wildflowers sought sunlight here and there, a somewhat futile exercise on an overcast day like this. It was a memorable experience, one I hope the photos reflect. t

Bridge across the Wollomombi

Volume 36, Issue 1, Summer 2011 The Bushwalker | 7 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club

Nina Gallo

ere’s what I expected. We would come home raving about how much fun leave the warm comfort of our she’d had. I, on the other hand, was more Hrental car to embark upon our of a climber than a hiker, and my walking bold voyage. The yowling jaws of the experience was limited to a couple of Western Arthurs would rise to meet us, its overnighters in the Blue Mountains and serrated ridges and tortured crags lying in some teahouse trekking in Nepal. wait with the patience of a predator. We Nevertheless, I was bored, and figured would be welcomed, much as the Hobbits that a hike in the Arthurs was a great, if were welcomed by Mordor. Thunder terrifying, idea. would roll, dark clouds would circle, gather and release a fury of hail and sleet. Welcome, my pretties, to the Western Arthurs in winter. One of the most notoriously challenging, difficult walking routes in Australia. We would enter of our own foolish volition and we would be in its thrall, where it could have its violent A bit steep here - don’t fall! way with us. I was convinced it was a bad, no, heedless, no, completely bloody broach voids of such profound inky preposterous idea. blackness that their depth was beyond comprehension; we would teeter across unsteady logs covered in moss and slime; we would squirm and struggle up boulder-choked chimneys to find ourselves at an impasse. We would front point across vertical cliffs covered in verglas, hundreds of metres above an Across the moors on a boardwalk alpine lake, which was home to nineteen crocodiles five metres long. The first day was a baptism of fire, and One of us, delicately rearranging a my fantasies were immediately disproved. foot, would slip and go tumbling like a We would not stumble straight out of the rag-doll down the vegetated cliff face, car into the jaws of the range. No, first we saved only by the quick and forceful drive would endure a day of slogging, of an ice axe into a tree root. We would stumbling and tripping across the mudbog struggle, we would fight the good fight, a of a plain which is the approach to the valiant fight, and then, with the car in range. There was a lot of sinking, sight, believing that maybe, just maybe, squelching and darting from slat to we had triumphed– perhaps my friend submerged wood slat – what was and I could even exchange a veiled look obviously once a boardwalk, but has long Sun - or rain? of excitement: ‘This is it! We made it!’ - it since been buried by tonnes of mud. It would take us down. A ferocious storm of was not at all what I had expected, and it I figured we would probably die, but seven days, a crumbling foothold, a root shocked me right out of my Mordor not before spending days struggling which had just had it with being used as a imaginations. desperately, facing challenge after handle: whatever. There were so many challenge, each more perilous than the ways we could go. one before. We would traverse gullies Yep, based on all the reports I’d heard where the sun never shone; we would of hiking in the Western Arthurs, I thought this was a pretty reasonable approximation of Tasair Drop-off or pick-up what we’d Melaleuca (Bathurst Harbour) and Moores Valley encounter. To say I Call (03) 62485088 to book was a little intimidated would be an underestimation. It was all good for my mountaineer friend who had come up with the fanciful idea. She was used to hauling half her weight up mountains, only to For more find herself in the information visit grips of a seven www.tasair.com.au year storm: she’d A view of Federation Peak

8 | The Bushwalker Volume 36, Issue 1, Summer 2011 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club

Mist boiling up one side of the range axes and crampons were not required. Even so, it Our first sight of the range came as a was no walk in the park. I surprise. We just looked up from our remember thinking a few A harsh land, but beautiful mud-clodded boots after hours of flat times, as I was hanging terrain and there it was. Its flanks rose off a couple of wiry tree roots, descending meditative absorption of every moment. dramatically from the mud flats and dark a near vertical gully of eroded mud, ‘man, The days passed unthinkingly as we clouds huddled around its highest peaks. they call this a bushwalk?!’ Walking in the negotiated the drops and climbs, set up Wisps of mist circled the lower ridges, Western Arthurs requires complete focus pack-hauling and lowering systems and which extended as far as we could see. It and commitment, and it had much more made our steady progress along the spiny was still, and it was silent, and it was in common with my climbing experiences range. The nights were gobbled up in magical. Without going into too much than hiking. Some sections were exposed eating and sleeping the sleep of the detail, as I wouldn’t want to spoil the and tenuous, and there are many sections utterly spent. excitement for you, I will say this: hiking where you're very much in the no-fall Despite its physical difficulty, the the Western Arthurs traverse took us into zone. But the navigation is Western Arthurs, far from being a some of the most rugged, twisted and straightforward - in many places the only ferocious opponent, was a kind of refuge. awe-inspiring landscapes I have seen in way to progress is along the single narrow In that remote wilderness, existence was Australia. It is terrain that really can’t be path which weaves through terrain that pared back to its most essential experienced in any other way. looks just as inhospitable on approach as components. Walking, eating, sleeping, We were lucky enough to have stellar it does looking back. In other places the companionship. The rhythm was simple, weather for almost the entire trip, route is marked by cairns. the air was clear, the land was alive and although the rain did close in as we I think what I loved most about amazingly, at the end, so were we. More walked back out along the plains. Our ice walking in the Western Arthurs was the than ever. t

Volume 36, Issue 1, Summer 2011 The Bushwalker | 9 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club

Richard Pattison Bushwalkers Acclimatising with a view On the summit

aruntse (7,129 m), a rarely- cook staff and climbing sherpas. The trek Eventually, when the wind abated to a climbed peak in Nepal, is as a requires complete self-sufficiency, and as milder 40kmph, we packed our gear and Bmountain should be: remote, quiet, such we were entirely reliant on our team made the short journey to camp 2 at challenging, and demanding a tough to carry our food and gear to base camp. 6,400m, ready for our summit attempt. approach trek to earn your presence. The size and weight of the loads the Camp 2 is situated on a smaller plateau in In early October of 2010, six sherpas carry is staggering. The Sherpas view of the summit ridge we would Australians gathered in Kathmandu to are so warm and friendly, always looking traverse the next day. We fought the wind join a commercial Baruntse expedition. to help with a smile. to establish camp, before retreating to our Two of the intrepid adventurers had never The trek through the Hunku valley calmer canvas cocoon. The wind blasted worn crampons previously – they were follows a vague trail along river banks of the tents all afternoon and night. certainly in for a steep learning curve! glacial melt water, underneath impressive We planned a 3am alpine start for the The team was truly international, with Himalayan giants. The views were summit, but spindrift filled the tent at representatives from nine countries. Of constantly impressive, but lead to internal 2am when we opened the flaps for a the 14 climbers, only a father and son debate - should I look north or south, east weather check. It was agreed it was from Sydney knew each other prior to the or west, up or down?! It was a special probably a good idea to hold out a bit trip. experience to travel through this beautiful longer! I always find it fascinating to discover valley, especially knowing not many At dawn, the wind had rested a little, so many people with similar personalities trekkers have gone before. Baruntse base but was still gusting to over 60 km/h. We and values from such diverse camp is located by a glacial lake with a had come this far and would at least “give backgrounds, some as far afield as perfect yet daunting uninterrupted view it a go”. We gained the spectacular Norway, Greece and Hong Kong. of our mountain. We were delighted to summit ridge above, and found the east However, the introduction phase of any reach our base so we could unpack and side to be relatively sheltered. The ridge team always presents some uneasy take care of laundry and personal was an undulating obstacle course of moments and challenges as you get to ablutions over a couple of rest days. steep and narrow excitement. We know one another, and the team Before any expedition sets foot on a breathed heavily due to the altitude and establishes itself. You must adjust to mountain in the Himalayas, it must first customs and attitudes from different hold a Buddhist Puja ceremony. This is a societies, accept the good differences and traditional ritual, offering gifts and attempt to ignore the less agreeable prayers to the mountain and requesting differences for the ‘greater good’ of team safe passage. By showing respect for the spirit. Things such as snorting, spitting mountains and the mountain gods, in and lack of pleasantries become part of return we hope our faith will be rewarded the rich tapestry of human behaviour. with compassion. The mountains are the Each new day on the trek becomes more most spiritual places I know on earth, comfortable and enjoyable surrounded by more so than churches. I believe they are new friends. the grandest of all cathedrals. Perhaps Baruntse, located halfway between climbers need mountain gods in the same Everest and Makalu, lies near the head of manner that everyday people search for the pristine and remote Hunku valley, god in the lowlands. Mountain gods give possibly the windiest valley in the world. climbers hope. Hope that there is a grand It also boasts views of five of the six plan for all overhanging ice cliffs, hope highest mountains in the world (Everest, that life and death is controlled by a Kanchenjunga, Lhotse, Makalu & Cho higher source, hope that the division Oyu). The Hunku valley has no villages or between life and death is not by chance. Nearing the summit tea-houses, robbing us of the cultural The wind did not rest, so we pressed experience of meeting locals on our on with our plan regardless. The crux of exposure, but we were a match for the journey, usually a highlight of any travel the climb was just below camp 1, climbing climbing that Baruntse offered, and were experience. However, it did enable us to a gully of mixed rock and ice up to the grateful to mother nature for the become closer to our team of porters, west col, protected by a fixed rope. It was exhilarating views awaiting at the a climb of around 100 vertical metres at pinnacle of our expedition – a full 360 an average angle of 40 degrees, so not degree view of the Himalayas. With terribly technical, but with 20kg packs fingers and toes beginning to numb, it and lack of oxygen at 6,000m, it felt more was time to descend to the safety and challenging than it looked. A few artificial world of the tent. tumbling rocks added to the excitement Then the celebrations began. We so we were glad to reach the safety of celebrated back at base camp, we camp 1 unscathed, situated on the large celebrated at the first village we reached, plateau with a perfect view of Makalu just we celebrated at the second village we to our east. reached and finally we celebrated in We melted snow for water and dined Kathmandu! We were 14 climbers of on de-hy meals as we hunkered down and different backgrounds, experience and waited out a day of serious wind, all the ambitions, but we formed a strong bond while being blasted by 100kmph wind driven by a common desire for a and spindrift. The inside view of a tent Himalayan adventure. We’re definitely all becomes quite monotonous, but we slept richer for our blustery and breathless and chatted away the restless hours. encounter with Baruntse. t

10 | The Bushwalker Volume 36, Issue 1, Summer 2011 Climbing up from base camp Walk Safely—Walk with a Club

Rob Jung Night sky over Karijini utback walking - it’s all about to desperate measures, water. The ‘outback’ is the three- capturing the local experts - the Oquarters of Australia which is arid desert Aborigines. When his or semi-arid. This sparsely populated area tethered captive still did not is one of wide spacious landscapes, often lead to water, he was fed salted punctuated by low ranges, where long beef and little water until he droughts and pitiless heat in summer is did. Afterwards Carnegie let normal. his prisoners go. What is arid? It is where evaporation very greatly exceeds average annual rainfall. The more sophisticated Sources of Water definitions use vegetation, but a simple The types of water sources one uses annual rainfall: <250 mm per Carnegie found are typical of year in southern Australia, or <350 mm those in other parts of arid in the north. For semi-arid landscapes the Australia. A quarter of them deficiency is just less extreme. were constructed native wells. They were also reported by other explorers (eg Giles) and were common in the Bourke- Cobar region (Gunderbooka). These days, dams, bores and Arid landscape: Mt Giles MacDonnell Ranges, wells constructed for the rainfall 320 mm/yr pastoral industry can also provide water. water provided in tanks, and escape When preparing for an outback trip I routes. start with water sources, checking For some of the more visited arid areas available maps for watercourses, tanks (= magazines or books may have route and dams) and waterhole locations. None of water information. The internet can be Aboriginal wells were not confined to them are guaranteed to actually contain helpful, and visits to good public libraries arid Australia - this one is near any water. Different rock types hold and such as the Mitchell in Sydney can also be Yarrawonga. It was built by enlarging express water differently, so that carrying worthwhile, even if only for historical an existing trough in the rock using a geological map on a trip can be background. The accounts of most of repeated fires and digging, and is near worthwhile. the base of a large granite slab that Excellent outback walking provided its catchment. It holds routes exist in National Parks approximately 20,000 L. such as Gundabooka, Mutawintji, Flinders Ranges, Outback areas containing low ranges MacDonnell Ranges and interest me. They have enough elevation Karijini. Going there simplifies to gaze out over the landscape, provide access issues as there is just one ecological diversity and often interesting authority. Some Parks have gorges which offer a cool refuge and restrictions over routes and possible water. Yes, water is present in camping (e.g. Mutawintji). Park arid Australia. The Aboriginal groups staff are worth contacting about who inhabited our great desert areas regulations and waterholes, could find water and live there. This although their knowledge is article is about using the available water often second hand. Let them resources, rather than carrying it long know your car’s registration and distances. for how long you will be out. Thirst can drive a man to make Chat to them after your trip. ethically questionable decisions. David Walking recognised tracks Carnegie explored some of our most provides valuable experience. difficult country on his great trek through The Larapinta Trail (LT) near arid Western Australia, from Coolgardie Alice Springs (see Vol 31 Issue to Halls Ck and return (1896-7). After a 3) is an excellent walk, with a Arid landscape: gibber plain, Gammon Ranges, period without finding water he resorted transport infrastructure, extra rainfall 220 mm/yr

Volume 36, Issue 1, Summer 2011 The Bushwalker | 11 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club

Water near the base of Gammon Falls - a 75% Spectacular Yackie waterhole gorge - a 90-95% probability waterhole probability waterhole

Australia’s major explorers are available has been dry for a long period. In July at: 2007 I visited the Gammon Ranges, which Etiquette around http://gutenberg.net.au/explorers- we knew had been dry for a long time. In waterholes journals.html. severe droughts even the few waterholes Current and historic rainfall and may dry up. We used my car as a mobile Water is the most precious commodity temperature data are available from the waterhole with >25 L per person. We set and should be treated as such. It may be Bureau of Meteorology via the internet. up two short trips, leaving a reserve for of dubious quality with the presence of Unless there has been heavy rain I emergencies. dead animals near it or in it. Introduced restrict my outback walks to the cooler On each walk in the Gammon Ranges animals such as goats, cattle, camels, months: May to September or narrower. we set off with 2 days water (winter, ~6 sheep and horses are all more destructive Comparing rainfall for the past year with L each) and 3 days food. We mostly than native animals. From accounts of the long term averages helps assess the likely followed stony creek beds, maximising explorers we know waterholes were in state of water sources. Remember that our chances of finding waterholes. On the better shape in pre-European times when rainfall is often patchy. I'm conservative first trip, along Arcoona Creek, we found traditional owners managed them. They when visiting a new area, or one which no water so we returned to the car on the kept the entrances covered with sticks and second day. On our next trip, up Gammon bark, which kept animals out and the Creek, we noted pools in a couple of water cool. places on our way to Gammon Falls. That When the waterholes are few, avoid water was not very inviting, being fouled swimming in them; instead do all washing by (a lack of) goat hygiene. Fortunately some distance away. there was fairly clear water near the Falls, Camp away from the water as well, so using this as a base we were able to and not where the animals walk. Wild spend the next day further exploring the horses through your campsite in the area. We reached the spectacular gorge middle of the night can be scary to say the around Yackie waterhole, where there least! was also water. Be careful consuming outback water, We used “A Walking Guide to the especially from still bodies of water. These Northern Flinders Ranges” by Heard, 1990. are more susceptible to contamination by

Water and rock type: Waterholes are more abundant in the hill country near Arkaroola (above) than they are in the nearby Gammon Ranges (below). In the Northern Flinders Ranges wells are a useful water source. The author uses a light-weight water collector: it is more effective than a billy with handle. The well in the photo is 12 m deep, which is typical. A narrower version of this collector can extract water from 10 cm diameter bore casings where a billy will not work at all. It is made of a light waterproof nylon. A small stone is put inside to make it sink, and heavier one is put in a bag on the side to make the rim tip over when it reaches the water.

12 | The Bushwalker Volume 36, Issue 1, Summer 2011 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club

Magnesium aluminium sulfate precipitating in a pool, Karijini. Such efflorescence was widespread on our Karijini walk in May 2007. In this pool, crystals were forming in the water. The In Gibson’s desert (annual rainfall 250 mm) the land sets the travel rules. It was taste was often quite (unpleasantly) named by Giles after his partner who perished there in April 1874. Giles and strong. Gibson were reconnoitering a route west when they pushed too far. The effort to regain their main camp 100 miles away became desperate, having limited food, water and now only one horse. They separated, with Gibson riding ahead to get help and Giles going on foot as best he could. Gibson, with their only compass, lost his way and was never seen again, but Giles survived. animals and humans because the supply is effective way. Remove any scum which finite and not replenished. Ponds exposed appears. Other known methods may be to sunlight are warmed, and this used too. accelerates the growth of hazardous Naturally occurring chemicals in the organisms. Many books describe hazar- water can also be a problem. In some dous organisms in water and their effects, parts of Australia concentrations of ranging from mild headaches, gastro- arsenic, fluoride and uranium exceed safe intestinal disturbances and fatigue, levels. For example, there are radioactive through vomiting to severe fever, cardio- springs in the vicinity of Arcaroola. respiratory problems and even death. So Sometimes maps show this information, at you should treat the water - boiling the other times local authorities may know, or billy being the customary and most they may not. t

Groundwater often contains high concentrations of iron (above). It can be detected from its bitter “metallic” taste On and off the and the rusty look of the water as the iron Larapinta trail. precipitates when this water comes in Mt Sonder contact with air. Sometimes this is due to (below) is on it iron-loving bacteria, but they leave the while the canyon water quite drinkable. (left) is not.

Volume 36, Issue 1, Summer 2011 The Bushwalker | 13 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club

Without going any further the scene here Hugh Spiers would be reward in itself for a short walk. We looked at the thick undergrowth. The ver walked in snow ALL DAY!? snow had ceased for a moment. Was that Neither had any of us before today. sunlight? Surely not! But to start at the beginning... E We pressed on into snow and the An 0830 start at Wentworth Falls had beginnings of Jungaburra Canyon. The been promulgated, and by that time only The joys of canyon walking going was difficult as expected, flexuous, four foregathered there to face the icy with many creek crossings. Lotti sugg- blast. Not quantity, but quality, including ested a stop for M/T. Fair enough, it was With appropriate caution we lit a fire. Hugh - lovingly referred to as il the first place we’d found where a stop Necessary nepenthe for the soul! We Commandante. A minor gale at the was even possible. We had the palatial warmed our spirits, dried our clothes and carpark, 2 C, and bits of snow flying spread prepared, the lobster dishes burnt our gloves! Such a warm, happy around led to some erethism. Anyone not looking so fine on the tablecloth time. Emanuel turned a visit to the Gents’ on time would miss out. It was no day to into a recce and discovered, as is his sit around - so - off! We collected Tony wont, a nearby exit line up the cliffside. found lurking around Gearin's Pub. Only Lunch over, we managed it, the oldest five, but at least today we wouldn't be member being assisted by a safety tape hampered by people confusing Saturday around the base of a tree later described walks with Interpretative walks. as ‘not too stable’ (I hope they were Leader il Commandante had nutted referring to the tree). From on top there's out five possible walks, all off-track, with a grand view down the canyon and, the choice was to be made on the day importantly, the possibility of a steep depending on who turned up and what they looked like. The violent winds eliminated two walks, leaving Kamarah Canyon, Boyce’s Gully, and Jungaburra Brook. The decision was made en route.

Dining in style - so to speak

embroidered with pink rosettes, a choice of Waldorf or Caesar salads set out and the Mateus Rosé poured, when the snow thickened again! With no shelter it was Do you think the weather is improving? possible only to pull up the wet-weather gear higher around the head and finish descent to the creek where ‘perhaps’ the Jungaburra Canyon headwaters the hot drinks. undergrowth might be easier going on a recce planned for another day. Four fit and capable walkers (plus il C) e started off W but before long he vertical back to the road is about could tackle the last named. Wcame across a not unexpected T200 m. Generally the walk is graded Snow storms in the valley as we sped obstacle: a delightful little waterfall and 3/4. Today it was made more difficult by along Darling Causeway hit us as we chute sided by steep cliffs. No way. There the wet rocks and moss, the wet stepped out of the car: a major SW gale was a creek crossing not far back so we undergrowth, the cold, and the snow. It and snow - a true blizzard. This, of climbed the low cliff on the S side and was made easier by the presence of our course, did not deter us from the need to followed the spur westwards. Access to mountain climber Agonistes, as well as all form an introductory circle for prayers the creek is possible at the nose. We the others. As they used to say, we fadged and thanks and the customary hortatory pushed on around the gully. The going pretty well. Thanks all. t admonition against treading on native was as bad as the worst parts of our plants; but the hasty donning of gaiters Victoria Brook jaunt, and it was distracted the attention of some from the unrelenting. So was the snow which was service. Then the feckful pentad was off to continue from the M/T break until we along Jinki to the Wilkinson Hill turn off. finished the walk. Our motto ‘fortiter in Downwards now, and at 494 865, not re’ sustained us, but hopes of progressing claiming fatidical powers and feeling much further faded and we made for a unusually exorable, I asked the group long overhang cave. 100 m took about whether they felt adventurous enough to half an hour. Festina lente may be a more attempt entry into Jungaburra from a apposite motto! Diary excerpt: The Lunch little further north than might enable a Spot is magnificent and quite dry. Some through road. Their positive and foregoer once made a comfortable apparently fidimplicitary response was campsite here, who knows - an gratifying. Agapemone perchance? A spectacular The going through the dry sclerophyll high nose towers above us on the other was not too difficult and we found a way side of the creek, though today it looms down to the creek c 494 868. A narrow, misty and menacing through the thick anfractuous gully awaited us. Marvellous! snow. Il Commandante, leading bravely

14 | The Bushwalker Volume 36, Issue 1, Summer 2011 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club

re you a bushwalker or just a before the event deadline. Finding a Afollower? Do you enjoy many checkpoint is a great confirmation of good bushwalks but have precious little idea of navigation. Each year BWRS aims to set where you went? Are your bushwalks on an accurate course with a range of easy to tracks as cross country travel is a mystery? hard checkpoints. They also aim for a Could you locate where you are on the safe but friendly event with ‘radio map by checking your immediate checkpoints’ which you must report to but surroundings? Does ‘back bearing’ mean where you can also socialise with other remembering your way back home after a participants. Most overnight teams elect party? to camp at a ‘radio checkpoint’. If the answer is “yes” to any or all of NavShield is not an orienteering event these questions then you should be where you rush / run to complete a set practicing your bush navigation skills group of checkpoints on a fixed course. within a team from your Club at At NavShield you choose how few or NavShield 2011 on 2nd / 3rd July. many checkpoints you want to find and NavShield is an annual remote area adjust your pace accordingly. navigation event for the Emergency Bushwalker appetites can be met at the Services that is open to members of end of NavShield with the optional Confederation Clubs run by Bushwalkers catering. Event Registration is easy at Wilderness Rescue Squad (BWRS). You www.bwrs.org.au . Extra information is can enter either the one day or overnight there, of course, regarding frequently event where teams attempt to find as asked questions, minimum equipment and Keith Maxwell, BWRS many as possible, randomly scattered details of previous NavShields. ‘checkpoints’ set in typical bushwalk Taking the mystery out of cross country. Unmarked maps are supplied. country travel opens up much more Many teams return year after year to bushwalking country. So if you want to take up the challenge of checkpoint stop being just a bushwalking follower plotting, route planning, successful and get so much more out of your navigation to each of their selected bushwalks you should really be part of a checkpoints and returning to base camp Club team in NavShield 2011. t

proviso that we start from the premise wilderness, supportive material should Letters to that a cairn means ‘someone has been contain sufficient detail to guide the here before’. walker through. the Editor It would be a pity if Tom’s article In light of the above statements from the incited an anti-cairn zealot to dismantle a Confederation of Bushwalking Clubs Dear Editor well known cairn, say, marking the exit NSW, I cannot justify building cairns, I respect and admire Tom Gleeson greatly. route from a high mountain, which would placing tapes, nor publishing detailed I’m sure that he was born with walking be useful in a descent under adverse track notes. In the ANU Mountaineering shoes on, he runs an active club and is weather conditions. Club, as in the Sydney University always willing to share his walks via John Evans Bushwalkers, trip leaders like myself go to photos and description. He once joined Dear Editor a great deal of effort to educate and two old codgers on a wander in John Evans is a remarkable man, with mentor new walkers in the ways of Koscuiszko National Park. He showed great enthusiasm for the bush. However, I minimal impact bushwalking, including them the spartan delights of lightweight find the third paragraph of his letter to be quite a lot of time spent teaching map and bivy bag camping and they were most in general opposition to the principles of compass navigation skills. I am very grateful for his youthful energy as he minimal impact bushwalking as it does impressed with how my walkers are going made the going up through the regrowth not promote self-reliance, and does not and am proud to say that the “Walk on the south-west flanks of Round encourage walkers to join a bushwalking safely, walk with a club” message is Mountain - I know, I was one of those old club and learn navigation skills safely. having a positive impact. fellows. The Confederation of Bushwalking Clubs Press on regardless, Everything that Tom states in his The NSW is the body to which (most) NSW Tom Gleeson Bushwalker Winter 2010 “Bush and ACT clubs are affiliated, and it has Navigation and Wilderness Walking” produced two documents which address Editor’s comments article concerning navigation and cairns is the responsible use of our natural areas. I Clearly this is a difficult area, engendering factual and true. Being a late starter to quote from two of them below. much debate. For what it is worth, I draw bushwalking, I know only too well that I BUSHWALKERS’ CODE: some distinction between off-track need to improve my bush navigation. navigation in a declared wilderness area Become proficient at bush navigation. Reading the lie of the land and map and (eg deep in Wollemi) and navigation on a If you need to build cairns, blaze compass work are both learnt skills and known and published track (eg through trees, place tags, break off twigs, or tie arts to be applied, applied, applied. ). But whether tapes and knots in clumps of grass to mark your But surely there can be some cairns are needed in either case is another compromise. Marker cairns and tapes route, you are lacking in bush matter. Who has not laughed at the cairns (judiciously and sparingly placed) can be navigation skills. you sometimes see on the track through a great confirmation of navigational CONFEDERATION POLICY Blue Gum Forest? bounds for we ‘newbies’ and I’m the first ON NATURAL AREAS: Do we have places where a single cairn to admit that there is some relief when a Self reliance of users encouraged. serves a really useful purpose? I can think marked point is reached. In addition, Minimal and non-specific promotion. In of a few: the engraved termite mound on being primarily a day walker, I find that a particular no through route guides. Gingra Spur comes to mind. Can I marked route into a remote area gets me Printed guides: Detailed route guides are navigate that area without the ‘cairn’? there quicker and with more time to reach permissible so long as they give due Yes. Could novices? A good question. a distant objective. I will continue to regard to protection and conservation. Perhaps there is some distinction between document and publish marked routes in Limited to general description of the building lots of new cairns and leaving Namadgi National Park on Johnny Boy's terrain etc, with only broad suggestions some old traditional cairns in place. Walkabout Blog: concerning route possibilities. Where a We welcome continued debate on this (http://jevans.pcug.org.au), with the well established route passes through subject. Ed.

Volume 36, Issue 1, Summer 2011 The Bushwalker | 15