The Rural Chinese Town Becoming a Global Skiing Hub

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WIN Editor's Note FEBRUARY 2018

I’m sure it is difficult for some of our readers to get into the winter sports ‘mood’ while living in South China. Let’s face it: it’s stinking hot 80 percent of the year. - Growing up in western Canada, snowboarding, snowshoeing and reckless tobog gan rides through the streets (roped to the back of a Ford Explorer) were all activities I proudly partook in. We're giving away tickets to some My hometown’s place in the winter sports world was secured back in 2010, when of the very best events in the Pearl Vancouver and Whistler – one of North America’s largest ski resorts – hosted the Winter River Delta, alongside a host of free Olympic Games. It was 16 days of sporting glory, cultural festivities and illegal, albeit meals and other goodies. Follow our unenforced, street boozing. proper official WeChat feeds and sign up Needless to say, I haven’t seen snow ( snow, that light dusting Guangzhou for our weekly newsletter for your received in January 2016 does not count) since moving to the PRD three years ago. But, chance to win major prizes! To stay with the 2018 Winter Olympics in Pyeongchang quickly approaching, it seems as good a up to date, visit www.thatsmags. time as any to get hyped about sub-zero sports. com or scan the QR codes below and That’s why we’ve decided to examine China’sThat’s Beijing growing ski and snowboard scene for follow our WeChat accounts. this month’s cover story. On pages 36-43, Editor-in-Chief Noelle Mateer introduces the rural Chinese town that's set to become a global skiing hotspot. In our City section, we explore the fate of Guangzhou’s abandoned railways (pages 12-15) and share the story of Ho Chi Minh’s secret Canton bride (pages 16-17). - For those that enjoy our regular Daytripper column, we share a number of note worthy sights in Guangzhou’s Huangpu and Zengcheng districts – now easily accessible ThatsGuangzhou with the recent opening of Guangzhou Metro Line 13 (page 21). Elsewhere in this issue, we take a look at the Shenzhen-Hong Kong Bi-City Biennale of Urbanism\Architecture (page 30), divulge three new Middle Kingdom discs worth checking out (page 34) and sharexinnian some quirkykuaile! date ideas for Valentine’s Day (page 47). From all of us at That’s PRD, ThatsShenzhen

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4 | SZ | FEBRUARY 2018 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | FEBRUARY 2018 | SZ | 5 8 CITY 36 COVER STORY MOVING MOUNTAINS 9 MAN ON THE STREET The rural Chinese town becoming a global skiing hub. Carnivore’s comrade. 11 BEHIND THE CONCRETE Guangdong Revolutionary History Museum.

18 LIFE & STYLE 46 COMMUNITY

19 KIM LEITZES Founder & CEO of ParkLU. 26 STROLLIN’ IN SINGAPORE Three urban walks to fill an afternoon in the ‘Lion City.’

67 EVENTS 28 ARTS SZ

29 DO IT TOGETHER A chat with the folks behind Qiii Snacks Records. JAN 27 34 CHINA Feb 15: D-Stroyer MUSIC CORNER Three new homegrown albums on our radar this HK month.

FEB 9-11 56 EAT & Longines Masters

DRINK MO

60 WHAT’S IN A NAME? Five oddball Chinese desserts you should try. 62 BONESHAKER Affordable Americana. FEB 23 Dance on the Strings THE WRAP

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CITY

End of the Line Guangzhou's abandoned railways, p12

Behind the Concrete Love and Woe in Old Canton P11 P16

8 | SZ | FEBRUARY 2018 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM MAN ON THE STREET 9 JFEBRUARY 2018 | SZ | | JFEBRUARY WWW.THATSMAGS.COM - s note: the images accompanying this story ’ Is the meat safe? “Totally. I eat it too. “Totally. Is the meat safe? right? And the boss will get the cooler fixed, That much is ap too.” “The fish is all fresh, He’s cagey about exactly how much he’s how about exactly cagey He’s off should get days we says “Government of his present, is a source like future, His THE DIRTY DETAILS THE DIRTY RMB5,000 salary: approx. Monthly 28 per month: Days 9 Hours per day: Everything’s fresh.” fresh.” Everything’s “Anybody he hems and haws. know…” ya “Well, it at that. just leaves He can call the repairman.” were captured at a similar-style shop in Guangzhou. Man on the Street is a monthly feature where we talk to someone doing an everyday job to gain insight into the lives of ordinary Chinese people. Editor parent. They’re swimming right behind him, right swimming parent. They’re their impending doom. to oblivious in Shenzhen us the going rate paid, but gives that he’ll get a likes in his position. He a guy for But his one complaint is selling more. bonus for about the time off. So I company. but this is a private week, every off a month.” days get two only comes next. what know never “Ya ambivalence. Just gotta find a job.” - s urban Shenzhen grows far beyond its beyond far grows Shenzhen s urban Zone, plans Special Economic original 100 old industrial the city envision for

Don’t worry, he reassures us. The meat he reassures worry, Don’t “A job’s a job, they’re all about the same.” all about the same.” a job, they’re job’s “A us, is that he tells now, But the problem “Most places are the same,” he tells us. he tells the same,” “Most places are Like many in the city, Yajun (he won't share (he won't Yajun in the city, many Like That’s where we find our local “meat- we That’s where

he usually does.he usually should be okay, if he gets rid of it all today. And of it all today. if he gets rid should be okay, beef and pork. “The fridge is broken.” beef and pork. cooler. He waves his hands over the packages of the packages his hands over He waves cooler. consider. consider. job that gives him satisfaction? He pauses to He him satisfaction? job that gives with the meat.” Anything particular about this particular Anything with the meat.” “This one is kinda nice, since I just need to work “This one is kinda nice, since I just need to clean. kill chickens, this job generally keeps his hands keeps this job generally kill chickens, working with meat and he boasts the skills to working six months. While his earlier jobs all involved all involved jobs six months. While his earlier been at this shop in Longhua New District for New District been at this shop in Longhua Shenzhen four years ago for the work. He’s the work. ago for years four Shenzhen cooler filled with cuts of meat. to but moved here, from his last name) isn’t spends his day between a fish tank and a wide between spends his day ,” an amiable 30-something who selling shifu,” mall grocers to feed them. feed mall to grocers A

Carnivore’s ComradeCarnivore’s By Adam Robbins MEAT-SELLING SHIFU MEAT-SELLING but also more towering residences and strip residences towering but also more by 2020. That means more malls, of course, malls, of course, 2020. That means more by districts and 100 urban villages redeveloped villages redeveloped districts and 100 urban THE BUZZ

RANDOM NUMBERS CITY SNAPSHOT Space-Time 27 Tunnel Pawel Strzewiczek - has lived in China for over seven years, dur ing which time he has cruised over 20,000- kilometers through the country via mo - torbike. According to Strzewiczek, he became interested in photography while surrounded by yaks, nomadic peo ple and high mountains near China’s Tibet Autonomous Region. Two years ago, Strzewiczek moved to Guangzhou, where he now seeks photographic inspiration from the city’s vibrant … hours. That is how long three foreigners nightlife and unique architecture and design. Strzewiczek snapped this month’s featured ‘city were stranded in the South China Sea snapshot’ at Guangzhou’s Baiyun International Airport after returning from Chengdu. See last month, after their 28-meter-long moreTag #thatsprd of his workon Instagram on Instagram for a chance (@strzewo). to be featured on our feed and in the magazine. sailboat ran aground in the Nansha island chain. The grateful crew, composed of Polish, Swiss and French sailors, was eventually rescued after a Chinese patrol DON’T YOU KNOW WHO I AM? boat responded to their distress signal. Unfortunately for the adventurous sailors, attempts to tow and refloat their boat ‘Sexy Girl’ Scam Bots were unsuccessful and the trio and their belongings were transferred to a Chinese coast guard vessel. Police recently revealed that chat bots posing as bodacious babes have scammed dating app - 360,000 users out of a collective fortune. The investiga tion began last August, when Guangdong police were tipped off on an app that asks users to pay for titillating videos- that, alas, did not exist. From there, the investi gation expanded to apps run in 13 provinces across China. By January, over … the approximate value, in renminbi, - 600 individuals had been arrested and 21 companies shut down in cities including Beijing, of a kilogram of crystal meth that a Guangzhou, Shenzhen, Hangzhou, Changsha and Wuhan. On the dating apps they formerly 27-year-old woman was caught attempt operated, some of the so-called single women were in fact chat bots programmed to flirt with ing to smuggle across the Shenzhen- users. In at least one case, app users could exchange a few messages with a ‘sexy’ bot before Hong Kong border (at Lok Ma Chau) on being asked to upgrade to VIP status for RMB200. Once they forked over the money, they could January 3. The smuggler faces a hefty continue chatting, with some caveats – the bots would continue to attempt to lure users into punishment: in Hong Kong, trafficking - topping up their accounts or sending virtual gifts of up to RMB1,000. Police estimate that some drugs can get you a life imprisonment 100,000 people were scammed every day, handing over a total of 1 billion yuan to the fraudu sentence and fines of up to HKD5 million. lent app companies. 10 | SZ | FEBRUARY 2018 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM [email protected]

This is the year when the first batch of the post-00’s generation turns 18 and entersfo xi, adulthood. How are they doing? Well, they’ve already given up and are ready to become hermits in caves. They are people who have seen through the nihilistic nature of our material world, abandoned all desires and now live like buddhas. fo xi fo xi In a series of viral posts in the first month of 2018, a member of this generation described the philosophy. People who are don't set any professional goals, and therefore have no anxiety about not achieving them. They post photos on WeChat but don’t care about how many people ‘like’ them. They don't really care about what to have for lunch or dinner because food is just food. If socks show up when they order pants from Taobao, they just fo xi/ fó xì / 佛系 adj. buddha-like, having no desires and indifferent to everything, apathetic keep the socks, because arguing and complaining is unthinkably exhausting. “Okay” and “sure” are their answers to almost any question. This nihilistic attitude is the latest addition to a long list of Every stage in life is exhausting: doing well in school, traits of the post-90’s generation that annoys the heck out of the finding a job, buying a house. I'm stressed out just post-80’s generation, who call them lethargic, unenthusiastic thinking about it. and soft. While most of these post-90’s kids don't even care to defend themselves, some have cited the lack of social mobility as the cause. Class solidification only happened after the post-80’s generation had already made their fortunes. Nowadays, the social I know. Fo xi is the only way to go. status of the family you are born into very much determines your life trajectory. Changing that trajectory is nearly impossible and highly costly. Agreed. Let's go take a nap. If you don’tfo xi hope, you don’t get disappointed; if you don’t fight it, you don’t get hurt. “I’m not from a rich family, nor am I super smart,” Mia one Li youngster wrote in his post. “How my life will turn out is very much up to chance. Why exert any effort?” BEHIND THE CONCRETE Guangdong Revolutionary History Museum

Nestled in the peaceful, leafy gardens on the Yuan Shikai and the northern warlords. western edge of Martyrs’ Park, the historic The building, with its dramatic domed meeting hall at its center, still festooned with edifice housing Guangdong’s Revolutionary Republican-era flags, also becamePolitics an important Weekly headquarters for the early KMT government. History Museum, ringed by archways and Communist leaders too left their mark: Mao Zedong himself conducted affairs in the building colonnades and framed by swaying palms, while working as chief editor of . looks more like a forgotten colonial mansion Today, the museum stands as a testament to the revolutionary history of the region, from some distant Caribbean island than a documenting the struggles of Cantonese people to resist imperialist aggression and reform their Qing Dynasty relic that’s borne witness to society, from the Opium Wars to the founding of the PRC. Exhibits on the second floor form the some of the highest crescendos of China’s Guangzhou Museum of Modern History, cataloging the city’s rise from an early manufacturing tumultuous twentieth century. centerMartyr's to Park an South important Gate, 25trading Zhongshan port toSan the Lu, modern Yuexiu District megalopolis 越秀区烈士陵园南门中山三路 we know and love.25号 Indeed, the site, which now serves as a ‘patriotism education base’ (free entry, of course), was from its earliest days destined to serve as a backdrop to hot points of history. Originally constructed as an important administrative building in the latter days of the Qing Dynasty, the building was a focal point for popular dissent in the wake of the 1911 Xinhai Rebellion. Here, in the old halls of imperial power, the masses of Guangzhou staged a people’s assembly denouncing the Manchu regime. Later, in 1921, the site saw Sun Yat-sen take his oath of office as Extraordinary President of his newly declared military government, setting in motion the campaign that would topple WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | JFEBRUARY 2018 | SZ | 11 CITY | FEATURE END OF THE LINE exploring the Past, Present and Future of Guangzhou’s Abandoned Railways

n this major Ihub of manufacturing and trade, railways have played an integral role in Guangzhou’s development. If con- you have spent any amount of time living in nected the city or the region at large, chances are Guangzhou to nearby you have ridden at least one train, probably Foshan, went into operation in to Hong Kong for a weekend of boozy, un- September of 1903 – roughly eight years hinged fun and unhindered Internet access. before the Canton-Kowloon track linked Canton’s first railway, the Yuehan Guangzhou and Hong Kong by rail. Text and images by Matthew Bossons and Tristin Zhang Railroad, was built in 1900, although it The starting point of the Guangsan would not go into service until 1936. The Railway in Guangzhou was Shiweitang route connected Guangzhou to Wuchang, in Station, which was built on the site of a Hubei province. former Fang village on the right bank of the The city’s first active rail line, the Pearl River, in Guangzhou’s Liwan District. Guangsan Railway, broke ground in In the early days, Shiweitang Station November of 1901 and its construction was only provided passenger transport and led by an American company. did not handle the consignment of cargo. The route, which During China's War of Resistance Against Japanese Aggression, workers on the train route demolished one stretch of railroad from Shiweitang Station to

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Foshan Station, lest the Japanese army make use of it. The track was rebuilt after the war and operated until March 1992, when passenger service was halted. Today, the metal tracks at Shiweitang Station are covered in an orangey-gold lay- er of rust. Passengers no longer crowd the station platform and the blaring whistles of departing trains have been replaced with the hum of nearby industry. While the station building is no more, the boarding platform and abandoned tracks are still very much intact, albeit weathered. The area has been largely re- claimed by nearby residents and serves as a kind of community garden. By all accounts, the only folks that are going out of their way to visit Shiweitang Station now are selfie- hunting teens.

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(Fun fact: the station, after its closure, was regularly used as a filming location for Chinese TV series and movies. This helped the site gain fame with Guangzhou’s amateur photographers). In death, Shiweitang Station has found some semblance of peace, but not all of Guangzhou’s derelict railways have received such a quiet end. An abandoned stretch of railway near Guangzhou Metro Line 5’s Xichang Station, also in Liwan, has been swallowed up by a into parks and pedestrian lanes, much Station, which were originally connected vibrant array of clothing and food stalls. in the spirit of New York City’s High Line to factories used by Guanghong Food The forgotten track, which can be ac- Park. According to Guangzhou Radio and Corporation, will be developed as a demon- cessed via Huanshi Xi Lu, came to our at- Television, 35 kilometers of unused railway stration section; the tracks will be retained tention via a report by Guangzhou Radio have been earmarked for overhaul dur- in some manner; and disused structures and Television, which profiled the area’s ing the chengshi man xing xitong project, near the railway will likely “be transformed upcoming redevelopment — part of the local although specifics on which deserted lines into cafes, stadiums and gymnasiums,” aka government’s ‘chengshi man xing xitong’ will be included in the development are recreation and entertainment facilities. scheme. (Chengshi man xing xitong roughly presently hard to come by. Official bulletins posted near Huanshi translates to ‘slow city system’). What we do know, from local media Xi Lu by the Liwan District government’s The plan aims to transform a por- reports, is this: the old tracks near Xichang state-owned land levy office indicate that tion of Guangzhou’s abandoned railways

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the revitalization plan will cover 1.7 kilometers of forsaken railway. A taro saleswoman from Guangxi, surnamed Wu, spoke The market has been here for six with us when we visited last month and stated she was aware of the renewal project but that she “had heard noth- or seven years. I don’t know if ing about having to leave, just yet.” “The market has been here for six or seven years,” says the revitalization measures are Wu, “I don’t know if the revitalization measures are a good a good thing. thing.” She adds that once the ‘slow city’ measures begin, she will pack up and leave her hawker post.

According to Wang Zechu with the city’s Urban Construction Committee, the most urgent job is to improve the city’s ‘slow traffic’ facilities, a task that includes adding more pedestrian walkways and bicycle lanes in residential areas that connect with nearby metro stations, hospitals and schools. While some may mourn the loss of cheap (and in some cases, free) open-air retail space, the project boasts great potential. Redtory, an art, entertainment and dining zone located in Guangzhou’s Tianhe District, underwent a similar renovation program in the late aughts. Formerly the Yingjinqian Canned Food Factory, the area saw art galleries, shops, restaurants and performance spaces open inside the facility’s derelict buildings. A section of railway originally utilized by the Yingjinqian Canned Food Factory survives in Redtory today and, much like Shiweitang Station’s forsaken tracks, has become a photo hot spot for young urbanites looking to capture a unique shot.

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | JFEBRUARY 2018 | SZ | 15 CITY | FEATURE

HO CHI MINH’S SECRET CANTON BRIDE A Valentine’s Day Tale of Love and Woe By Daniel Plafker

ebruary is upon us, Valentine’s Day is- In 1926, the pair had the honor of tying the knot at Tai Ping Koon, the same historic Faround the corner and love is in the Beijing Lu restaurant where Zhou Enlai wed his wifey the previous year. Even today, air. Another season of romance is de Guangzhouers can enjoy saucy beefsteaks in its hallowed halls. scending on our beloved City of Flowers – a Like all fairy tales however, this one could not last forever. A cruel wind was blowing town that is no stranger to tales of sweet - down from Shanghai and in the midst of the murderous anti-Communist purges that followed amour. Chiang Kai-shek’s notorious massacre on April 12, 1927, Ho was forced to skip town to Hong Guangzhou has had its fair share of es Kong, leaving hours before KMT police beat down his door. teemed denizens (from Sun Yat-sen to that- Separated by the gulfs of borders and politics, the two lovers yearned and pined to no one guy who stands too close to you at Taco avail. Letters would be sent back and forth, only to be intercepted. Rendezvous would be Tuesdays) and, indeed, has had no short planned, then foiled. Eventually, contact between the two was severed. When Zeng saw age of Romeo and Juliet sagas (from Soong - her husband’s face in the newspaper in 1950 and learned he had become president of the- Ching-ling to the English teacher who can’t Democratic Republic of Vietnam, it was too late. By this time, a cult of personality had grown- seem to stop sleeping with his TA). What fol around Ho that centered his supposed celibacy as testament to his single-minded commit lows is a super sad true love story, set right ment to the cause. Zeng’s repeated entreaties to the Vietnamese embassy in Beijing went un here in old Canton. answered. Ho’s attempts to establish contact through the Guangzhou consulate were refused. The year was 1924. His name was Ho Their marriage had become an inconvenient truth. Chi Minh and he had just stepped off the Zeng, for her part, remained committed to the cause, staying active in the All-China slow boat from Vladivostok. This communist- Women’s Federation and continuing to work in obstetrics. She lived out her days in Casanova had traveled the world working Guangzhou as a midwife, retiring in her seventies and finally dying in 1991, at the age of 86. as a kitchen helper on ships, honing his so cialist politics, and was in town on official Comintern business. Ho would live nearly three years in our fair city, organizing for the- liberation of his homeland from the French and lecturing revolutionary Vietnamese ex pats at the Whampoa Military Academy. It was inevitable, in such heady times, that love would soon blossom. Her name was Zeng Xueming: a Guangzhou native with Hakka roots. Zeng was working as a midwife when she met the dapper rebel and the two took to one another. Ho’s comrades initially objected to the match but the love-struck lecturer insisted: “I will get married despite your disapproval because I need a woman to teach me the language and keep house,” he is quoted by biographers as saying. 16 | SZ | FEBRUARY 2018 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM FEATURE | CITY

Taiping Koon Western Restaurant 太平馆西餐厅

Urban adventurers, history buffs and fans of braised pigeon meat will be pleased to know that the storied venue that played host not only to the marriage of Zeng and Ho – but also to the wedding of the PRC’s first premier, Zhou Enlai, to his wife and one-time chair of the CPPCC Deng Yingchao – is still very much open for business. Taiping Koon Western Restaurant is quite possibly the oldest ‘occidental-style’ eatery in all of China. Started in 1885 during the late-Qing dynasty, the restaurant has been in continuous operation on the same stretch of Beijing Lu where it sits today. The founder, a chef named Xu who had been employed in the kitchens of a foreign firm on Shamian Island, decided to give the everyday people of Guangzhou a taste of the new Western cooking styles he learned, and lo,- a legend was born. While we can’t exactly vouch for its flavor or authentic ity (to be fair, the ‘Western food’ of the Qing Dynasty was likely a far cry from the burgers and salads on offer today in the pubs and cafes of Zhujiang New Town) we can certainly vouch for its history and popularity. For better or worse, Taiping Koon’s sauced-up beefsteaks and signature broiled bird continues to grace the WeChat feeds of generations of Guangzhouers and the restaurant continues to draw crowds.Taiping Koon Western Restaurant, 342 Beijing Lu, Yuexiu District 越秀区北京路342号太平馆西餐厅 (8332 1305)

Perfect Matches Four foolproof ways to incorporate color into your wardrobe, p24

Wearable Tech 'Round the Riverbend P20 P21

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KIM LEITZES Founder & CEO of ParkLU Interview by Dominic Ngai

Influencers, more widely known as KOLs (key opinion leaders) in China, are an essential element of the customer-centric marketing ecosystem today, but how can marketers differentiate the good from the bad? Kim Leitzes has been helping companies sift through the cluttered marketplace with ParkLU, a platform that pairs brands with KOLs based on a comprehensive database of influencer and brand profile analysis and performance data. Here, she tells us what brands should look for when working with KOLs, and offers an important piece of advice for aspiring content creators looking to establish themselves as influencers.

Tell us why you started ParkLU.

I moved to Shanghai from New York in 2010, “Having a thousand super fans is more important and I was working in finance at a hedge fund at the time, with a focus on retail and fashion than having a million followers” companies. The following year, I started a fashion blog called ParkLU, where I’d write about cool things that I found on Taobao, and What are some common missteps in these a few months into blogging, some American collaborations? fashion brands started approaching me to beauty, lifestyle and travel brands – these do some sponsored content. One thing led comprehensive customer profiles drive to another and I started building a team of ParkLU’s recommendation engine. What are some qualities of a ‘good’ KOL? There’s often a mismatch in expectations copywriters and graphic designers. We were - regarding how much creative freedom the not only creating content for brands that was brand is offering the content creator. It’s tailored to the China market, but also con Regardless of the size of their following, good important that these details are clear and necting micro- or mid-tier influencers with - KOLs tend to have high engagement and a upfront before the collaboration starts. these companies for similar collaborations. loyal following. They bring value to their fol Marketers should trust that the KOLs know By 2015, ParkLU morphed into a platform - lowers with their consistent, authentic and what their audience wants, but at the same that makes it easy for marketers, designers - quality content. Having a thousand super fans time, they must offer some guidance and in and brands to discover the right influencers is more important than having a million fol structions to the content creators in terms of Howor KOLs does to thework pairing with. process actually Howlowers. do you measure the effectiveness of a what they are looking for. The blank slate of work? collaboration with KOLs? ‘do whatever you think is best’ doesn’t work well either, as most people don’t really mean Whatit when advice they say do that.you have for people who We took what we were doing manually, and - That depends on the goals of the brand. are becoming a KOL or starting their own built a whole platform – the website and an Besides click-through traffic data, market content creation business? app – around it. The matching process is - ers should also be looking at whether their based on the content and engagement data - organic search rate has increased on Tmall, of 15,000+ KOLs across 11 social media plat - WeChat or other relevant platforms, mean Pick a format and platform that you’re able to forms (including WeChat, Weibo and various ing whether the collaboration has generated create content for and post everyday – con live streaming sites). To make sense of it all, more awareness and if it had prompted sistency and frequency matters more than we depend on our own bilingual, proprietary - people to do more research. Or, a more direct Findperfection out more in at today’s parklu.com digital world. database that includes profiles of 80 fashion, way to track conversion rates is to offer a dis count code for the KOLs’ fans to use. WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | FEBRUARY 2018 | SZ | 19 STYLE RADAR TAP THAT APP INSPECT-A-GADGET Forest Maibu Smart Watch

As Scottish naturalist and author John Smartwatches are by no means new tech. Sure, Muir so eloquently put it, “The clearest they gained new life and prominence with the way into the universe is through a forest - release of the first Apple Watch in 2015, but wilderness.” - wearable computers can arguably be traced In this age of urban sprawl, diminish back to the early ’80s, with the launch of the ing wilds and flourishing phone applica Pulsar NL C01. tions, the next best thing to true nature In 2018, it seems virtually every tech might just be an application called Forest, manufacturer under the sun is getting in on the In addition to the usual suspects (weather which encourages users to put down action, with powerhouse companies like Apple, and step counting apps and countless quirky- their phones and exercise focus for a set Samsung, Lenovo, Garmin and Huawei all vying watch faces), the M1 can also support basic period of time, say, the duration of a meal for a place on your wrist. games, tell you your altitude and act as a re or a period of app-free concentration at But for China dwellers looking to invest in mote (via Bluetooth) to control music being the office. a smartwatch, dropping USD400 on a brand- played on your mobile device. By setting your own time targets, you name gadget isn’t the only option, as myriad - This digital accessory is by no means the can earn coins which can later help you lesser known domestic companies have en most cutting edge smartwatch on the market, upgrade your starter plant – a standard tered the fray – offering a selection of reason but its simple design, useful programs and daisy covered bush – to something with- ably priced, practical ‘wrist comps.’ low price point make it an easy investment for a little more charm, like a sunflower or Of the local brand offerings we’ve sampled, individuals looking to join the wearable tech pumpkin patch. If you can maintain fo one really stood out: the Maibu Watch M1. community. cus, your ‘forest’ blooms; if you leave the The water resistant watch case boasts a Detractors will likely note the Maibu app, it withers. basic digital screen, four buttons for program Watch M1 has a black and white screen, but Depending on taste, users can choose navigation and a stainless steel back. we’d argue it adds a retro feel to the device. to alter the standard ambient track to the For the reasonable price of RMB399, the- And heck, if you want a color screen, the Maibu sounds of a bustling Times Square or a Maibu Watch M1 proves highly functional, with Watch Maia offers all the aforementioned quiet sandy beach. an assortment of handy apps that can be up goodnessRMB399 Maibu and Watcha color M1; display available for on RMB528. tmall.com With an attractive and user-friendly loaded to the watch via Maibu’s mobile phone (search麦步M1) interface, Forest encourages a sense of app. patience and calm. Minty green tones and subdued yellow shades paint a picture of Zen in the midst of the daily hustle. COVET While the standard, free version of the app is both brilliant and timely, heavy adidas Ultra Boost ‘Year users looking to cultivate multiple and - larger forests can opt for the premium of the Dog’ version (RMB12), which also allows us ers to help plant real trees with Forest’s sponsor, Trees for the Future. At present, the app has helped more Among all the CNY-themed sneakers released than 250,000 trees take seed throughout last month, the adidas Ultra Boost hongbao‘Year of ForestKenya, is Ugandaavailable onand iOS Tanzania. and Android. Visit the Dog’ seems to be the most tasteful in www.forestapp.cc for more info. design. Forgoing the stereotypical red, embroidered floral or animal prints, designers went with intertwining hues of red and 獒black for the Primeknit upper, while a special logo with the Chinese character ‘ ’ surrounded by dog fangs is placed on the shoe tongue as a nod to this year’s zodiac animal. Available at select adidas stores and its official adidas.com.cn website for RMB1,399 from Feb 1.

20 | SZ | FEBRUARY 2018 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM [email protected]

DAYTRIPPER Sights to See on Guangzhou’s New Metro Line 13

The new year saw the opening of several new seats on the public ferry can be secured for scale that was surely unfathomable to those metro lines in Guangzhou, bringing entire RMB2. who built this ancient house of worship. Visit swaths of the city’s sprawling countryside - Allow three hours to wander the peaceful in March, when the annual celebration of - into easy reach. Last month, we set off to island by foot or make use of readily available the Sea God’s birth brings the place to life, to explore some of the notable and newly acces shared bikes to explore this unique corner of witness grand performances, cultural demon- sible sites along the freshly minted Line 13. the city. Residents here still maintain a partly strations and historic rituals. Nestled amid the steady currents of the self-sufficient farming life, raising livestock Alternatively, make it a whole day of east Pearl River, Dajisha Island’s rural charms are and planting vegetables. Fishing, too, remains ward exploration by adding a stop at the even- like a weekend balm to the frazzled nerves important and fresh, delicious meals can- be more fardiaolou flung Gualing village in Zengcheng of the harried city slicker. With laidback enjoyed by visitors. (Xinsha Station, Exit A), which proudly pre vibes and breathtaking sunset views, it’s no A coastline stroll provides ample op serves a (the unique, early-century wonder local villagers call their riverside portunity for photography. Watching happy - Guangdong fortification that put Kaiping on home ‘the most peaceful corner’ of Huangpu picnickers enjoy riverside beers and skip the map) along with a dense concentration District. stones while the sun goes down behind pass of ancestral temples. A nearly-finished paved A five-minute amble from Yufengwei ing cargo ships makes for a perfect end to a bike path makes two-wheeled rambling and a Station will take you to Wuchong Wharf. - peaceful day. DIY picnic lunch a tempting option. Don’t be alarmed by the hulking shipping Set out a little earlier and make time for However, if you desire to explore containers and giant freight vessels – the pas- a stop at the Nanhai God Temple (Nanhai Guangzhou’s eastern frontier, aim to do it senger dock will be on your right hand side. God Temple Station, Exit C2). Here, the ‘God soon – before the very KS subway line that has RMB15 is enough to charter an exclusive voy of the South Sea’ stands watch over a scene put it in arm’s reach inevitably chips away at age with enterprising local boatmen, though of bustling Pearl River maritime trade on a its unspoiled allure. How to get there:

Dajisha Island

– Yufengwei Station (Exit A or B, public ferry from WuchongNanhai God Wharf Temple ends at 6pm) – Nanhai God TempleGualing Station village (Exit C2) – Xinsha Station (Exit A)

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | FEBRUARY 2018 | SZ | 21 LIFE & STYLE | FASHION IN THE

REDCompiled by Dominic Ngai Dressed for the New Year

Red is a color that stands for many things, but during Chinese New Year, it’s all about happiness, good luck and prosperity. Here are some festive and stylish pieces from top brands.

Nike RMB699 nike.com

Zara RMB299 zara.cn

Beams RMB1,050 beams.co.jp

Burberry RMB2,200 burberry.cn

Visvim RMB6,690 farfetch.cnthe FOR HIM

22 | SZ | FEBRUARY 2018 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM FASHION | LIFE & STYLE FOR HER

Dressed for the New Year Compiled by Dominic Ngai

H&M RMB699 hm.com Zara RMB79 zara.cn

adidas Originals RMB899 adidas.com

Comme des Garcons RMB1,164 farfetch.cn

Louis Vuitton RMB3,150 louisvuitton.cn

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | FEBRUARY 2018 | SZ | 23 LIFE & STYLE | FASHION PERFECT M AT C H E S Four Foolproof Ways to Incorporate Color Into Your Wardrobe By Annie Atienza and Dominic Ngai

Split Complementary Color Theory

- Choose one color on the color wheel and the two colors on either side of its com Color is a powerful tool used across plementary color (i.e. red-violet, yellow and green). many visual disciplines including personal styling and building your This color theory shares the same strong wardrobe. Both objective and visual contrast with the complementary subjective, it can affect emotions theory, but achieves it with less tension and even motivate interpersonal by using the two adjacent colors. In this- runway look, we see a playful violet perception when applied to crocheted dress paired with bright yel- clothing. low collar appliqué and green boots. The look embodies a balanced yet undeni - To harness the power of color ably bold color dynamic. This theory can theory, it is helpful to reference the feel safer to those new to color experi mentation. color wheel – comprised of primary colors (red, yellow, blue), secondary colors (green, orange, purple) and tertiary colors, which are created by combining side-by-side primary and secondary colors – as a visual guide.

Here, stylist Annie Atienza outlines the virtues of four distinct color theories, in this easy-to-follow guide to help you find new possibilities in your wardrobe.

Analogous Color Theory

Combine two or three colors that are situated directly next to each other on the color wheel (i.e. red-orange, orange, yellow-orange).

Their proximity on the color wheel is an indication that these pairings imbue a harmonious effect that’s comfortable to the eye. A strong reason for this is the- prominence of analogous colors in nature. The most effective way to use the analogous color theory in your wardrobe is to pick one color as the central fo cus, plus a second (and maybe a third) to play a supporting role. Here, we see a sensuous milky orange ensemble taking center stage, with pops of red-orange and yellow-orange making cameo appearances within this look.

24 | SZ | FEBRUARY 2018 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM FASHION | LIFE & STYLE

Triad Complementary Color Theory

Combine three colors that are evenly spaced around the color wheel, forming an equilateral triangle (i.e. red, yellow and blue).

Because these three colors originate from vastly different points on the color wheel, using them within an outfit typically results - in a vibrant look. This color strategy is often associated with adolescent looks and costum ing, but when controlled, the triad can achieve- beautiful sophistication, too. In the example, we see vibrant blue and yellow accentuat ing the dominance of a luxurious leather and- boucle jacket in muted maroon. The intensity of the red portion of this triad has been tem pered, and it works perfectly. Another strategy is to use all three colors within the triad at full intensity, but using only one in the dominant position; the other two colors would serve only as minimal accent.

Complementary Color Theory

Combine two colors that are situated directly across from each other on the color wheel (i.e. blue and orange).

Due to the high contrast between them, these striking color combinations are eye-catching and energetic. Here, we see an example of this theory with fully saturated colors, using a blue blazer and orange trousers. Another option is to use a lighter tint or darker shade of one of the complementary-colored pieces to achieve balance.

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | FEBRUARY 2018 | SZ | 25 LIFE & STYLE | TRAVEL STROLLIN’ IN SINGAPORE Three Urban Walks to Fill an Afternoon in the ‘Lion City’ By Kheng Swe Lim, photos by Samuel Lipoff

o, you find yourself in Singapore. You’re done with your business meeting and have already walked up and down Orchard Road five times, Sstaring at branded goods you can’t afford. Now, you want to spend a chill afternoon slowly exploring a neighborhood, eating and shopping along the way. Here are three enjoyable strolls in the downtown area, each with their own distinctive personalities and easily accessible by public transport.

Little India: Bargain Shopping and Appetizing Indian Fare

- Little India is the vibrant heartroti prata of Singapore’s beautifully-carved figurines. University library, seems to warp space and Indian community. Along your walk,teh be tarik At the end of Belilios, turn left onto time, with a finite exterior enclosing an infi sure to stop and snack on (grilled- Serangoon Road, the main artery of Little nite space. - flatbread with clarified butter) and India, which is crammed full of small shops. When you finally find your way out, (pulled sweet milk tea) at the small restau Don’t be too distracted; turn right by the your head will be spinning after your trav rants on the way. Anguilla Mosque onto Syed Alwi Road, where els through hyperspace. While readjusting Head to Little India MRT Station, exit you will find the legendary Mustafa Centre. to reality, tumble back to Serangoon Road - on Race Course Road and head east. Take a This budget department store, open 24- and head east to Mavalli Tiffin Rooms, often right turn down Kerbau Road and another hours a day, inspires strong loyalty amongchai referred to simply as MTR. This chain of veg- right down Chander, where you’ll find Jaggi’s, itsmasala regular customers. If, for whatever rea - etarian restaurants from Bangalore serves home of hearty Punjabi food. son, you need a gold necklace, a watch, South Indian comfort food of the finest qual From Jaggi’s, travel down Belilios Road spices, a cheap suitcase, a new televi ity, which should satisfy even the heartiest until you see the Sri Veeramakaliamman sion and an Indian tourist visa, all at the same meat eaters. Temple, a Hindu temple dating from the time, you need never leave the building. Once you’re full, Farrer Park MRT Station 19th century. Built in classic Tamil style, the The main draw, though, is that the is right next door. Simply hop on a train and temple boasts a towering roof covered with Mustafa Centre, like Terry Pratchett’s Unseen whiz back to your hotel. 26 | SZ | FEBRUARY 2018 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM TRAVEL | LIFE & STYLE

Tiong Bahru: Hipster Cafes and Public Housing

- Tiong Bahru was one of the first public housing estates in Singapore. Today, it’s home to a col lection of hipster cafes and shops that merge - seamlessly with 1920s art-deco architecture, populated by long-time residents seemingly un fazed by the changes in their neighborhood. Start from Tiong Bahru MRT and get on Tiong Bahru Road. Head eastward, then turn right at Kim Pong Road. Next, walk till you reach Moh Guan Terrace. If you circle the area, you will find several interesting places to shop, eat and collect highly likeable Instagram snaps. There are two good bookstores on Yong Siak Street: Books Actually and Woods in the Books. The former has a back room crammed - full of vintage knick-knacks, and you can also pick up some products by local Singaporean designers. You may notice signs to the Tiong Bahru Air Raid Shelter, a World War II-era shelter, al though this is rarely open to the public. For food, you will be spoiled for choice. Pop in to Forty Hands for coffee, or head to PS Café Petit for a decent pizza (be sure to add the chili sauce!). For more traditional food options, follow Seng Poh Road until you reach Tiong Bahru Market, where you can indulge in typical Singapore fare in the hawker center upstairs. Try Jian Bo Shwee Kueh, which serves steamed rice cakes with a spicy relish, and steamed buns from Tiong Bahru Pau. Turn right on Eng Hoon Street and stop by Tiong Bahru Bakery for a couple of pastries to sate your sweet tooth. Keep going until you meet Outram Road, and then follow it to Outram Park MRT Station to catch your train.

The Downtown Core: Colonial Buildings, Museums and Burmese Food

The downtown core is Singapore’s oldest collection of Southeast Asian artifacts. Also, on Coleman Street to Peninsula Plaza, the area, with stately colonial-era buildings, be sure to get a picture of the Raffles Statue, heart of Singapore’s Burmese community. museums and surprisingly good Burmese commemorating the founder of modern Visit Inle Restaurantbiryani in the basement for food. Get your camera out and snap away for Singapore, in the shadow of the Singapore classics like tea-leaf salad, chickpea tofu and classic views of the city skyline and colonial skyline. Myanmar-style , and look around the architecture. Continue along Fullerton and Connaught- Burmese grocery stores. Start at Raffles Place MRT Station Roads to the National Gallery of Singapore. To return to glitz and glamor, head north- and make your way north to the beautiful The building, cobbled together from the for up North Bridge Road to get to Chijmes and Fullerton Hotel. Formerly the General Post mer Supreme Court and City Hall buildings, the Raffles Hotel. The first is a former con Office Building, you can enjoy afternoon tea displays works by Southeast Asian artists. vent, redeveloped into a restaurant and bar- in the lobby. In its immediate vicinity are the modern complex, while the latter is a colonial-era Next, cross the Singapore River over- the Supreme Court and Singapore Parliament five-star hotel and the birthplace of the leg 19th century Cavenagh Bridge; note the sign buildings. Once satisfied, turn right on St. endary Singapore Sling cocktail. forbidding horses and cattle from cross Andrew’s Road to see the neo-gothic St. When you need to head back, City Hall ing. On the other side, head to the Asian Andrew’s Cathedral. MRT Station is right by the cathedral. Civilizations Museum, which hosts a good Now for a change of scene: turn West WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | FEBRUARY 2018 | SZ | 27 ARTS

Urban Art Shenzhen-Hong Kong Bi-City Biennale of Urbanism\Architecture, p30

Maybe Mars Homegrown Albums P32 P34

28 | SZ | FEBRUARY 2018 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM DRUMROLL 29 2018| SZ | | FEBRUARY WWW.THATSMAGS.COM - - - ’ QiiiSR ‘ Follow Qiii Snacks Records on WeChat at ID lar with our friends. with our lar as a work could you that think ever Do you full-time? musician or hip hop musi a trap are Unless you Howie: at music full-time. work can’t cian you but we trap, into not really are We Andrew: sup the job to old-school hip hop. I need like The doing now. are we do what port me, to up. grow job helps me a lot to just music lovers. are we Basically, Howie: release on his label. We went to Hong Kong to to Kong Hong to went on his label. We release with many it was the album, so finally record couldn’t friends’ help. Without this help we done it. have 30 Songs, 30 People, event, upcoming Your did it. aspects to How has a lot of interesting up with the idea for this show? come you in started the event The idea for Howie: Shen Japan, as a 40 people, 40 songs gig. Hom in a Taiwan- the ex-vocalist/guitarist Hao, went Magazine, based band called Touming very was He that show. Japan and watched to bring to and he wanted the event by moved – the uncertainty of the show Taiwan it to do something simi to wanted him. We struck - -

together.’ For Die!ChiwawaDie! we release al release we Die!ChiwawaDie! For together.’ Howie: DIY now is more like DIT – ‘do it like is more DIY now Howie: Hong Kong band Wellsaid? Kong Hong like Struggle Session from Beijing and and Beijing Session Struggle from like to wanted always and we Genjing Records with bands from outside of Guangzhou, outside of Guangzhou, from with bands runs a label called Session, Nevin, Struggle How did you start to come into contact contact into come start to did you How of Session. The guitarist album with Struggle their labels as much. their the last released bums with other bands. We the same thing as us, they are not promoting not promoting are the same thing as us, they labels in Guangzhou but they are not doing are but they labels in Guangzhou Howie: We are a small label. There are bigger are a small label. There are We Howie: right now? right independent music scene in Guangzhou in music scene independent Do you think you are representative of the representative are you think Do you said they just wanted our logo on it. our logo on just wanted said they said we couldn’t really do it, but then they really couldn’t said we sure how much we could help them so we could help them so we much we how sure they would become popular fast. people’s mu other about releasing thought weren’t album. We their help release to asked musical attitude, it was perhaps obvious that never [bands’ music], we own our release us and contacted Tulips sic. First The White performing in toilets and an all-welcome to just wanted we Qiii Snacks, For Howie: Full Label, and armed with a reputation for 2016? out in started you members of another Guangzhou indie label, when guys for you the ambition What was in a McDonalds in 2016. Comprised of former Qiii Snacks Records was formed over “snacks” she describes as “doing lots of shit.” works in communications — the latter of which hardcore punk band Die!ChiwawaDie! and Jinbo, who pulls double time as singer of who works for a real estate company; and studying for his PhD in physiology; Andrew, the local indie label: Howie, who is currently We metWe with three of the six folks behind init for the music and the community. mixed bunch of self-professed nerds who are it best right now, Qiii Snacks Records, are a often means to be a DIY group. The team doing To be an alternativeTo music groupin Guangzhou

A Chat with the Folks Behind Qiii Snacks Records A Chat with Qiii Behind Folks the Grogan By Bryan DO IT TOGETHER COLL AGE SINO CELEB URBAN ART Khalil Fong Shenzhen’s UABB

From the first listen, it’s apparent: Khalil The scope of the Shenzhen-Hong Fong is just… different. The R&B musician Kong Bi-City Biennale of Urbanism\ straddles traditions with apparent ease, Architecture (UABB) is just as ambitious pumping out soul-infused songs of hisThe own as its lengthy name. Centered on art and Rapcomposition of China in English as well as Mandarin. urban growth, the months-long array of And China loves it. Long before exhibits, talks, performances and other eye-catching buildings that house photography, art, emerged on the scene, Fong events only happens every two years. academic texts and more. was already breaking sales recordsSoul with Boy his This year’s UABB began last December,- Exhibits at other venues, which include a catchy, hip hop-influenced tunes. and is possibly the most impressive effort former missionary-run school as well as a Hakka Since his 2005 debut album, , yet. Rather than staging events and exhibi village, draw attention to overlooked parts of the Fong has released eight more records and tions in museums, organizers decided to city’s history. Taken together, they instruct and been recognized six times as best male integrate them into Shenzhen’s most dense involve viewers in the grand social experiment that artist by various awards in the Asia region. and hectic neighborhoods – urban villages. Exhibitsis Shenzhen. open 10am-6pm Tue-Thu, 10am-8pm Fri-Sun, until Other accolades have recognized the thirty- The main UABB venue is Nantou, a unique March 17 except for holidays. Follow WeChat ID ‘UABB-SZ’ something's songwriting skills as well as ‘village’ that also boasts a history of nearly and message ‘ticket’ or ‘t’ to receive a free e-ticket. Bring ID popularity among fans, who number almost 1,700 years. for entry and simultaneous interpretation services. 11 million on Weibo. Stroll along Nantou’s north-south Fong made his name on a pioneering axis and you’ll find, among zigzagging, blend of Western styles with Chinese lyrics, narrow alleyways, bright murals and a product of his international background: HAO BU HAO although he was born in Hawaii, Fong’s Chinese-American father and Hong Kong - mother raised the budding crooner in Shanghai and Guangzhou as well as the for Hao mer British colony. - Fong is still based in Hong Kong, where he’s put the hit-making temporarily on hold The global movement condemning misogyny and vio to run a new music label that aims to fuse lence against women in the entertainment industry cultural influences and create “a new sound that’s become known by the hashtag #MeToo has begun for Chinese music.” Journey to the West Angelsto make Wear modest White progress in China. The movement’s Hints of that sound might be found in success overseas coupled with the release of films like his most recent album, , which chronicles a fictional assault (2016), which featured collaborations case set in Xiamen, has inspired women working in the with Taiwanese-American superstar Wang film industry, media and academia to tell their stories via Leehom, soprano pop princess Jane Zhang, various forms of social media. Subsequently, a student Inner Mongolian band Hanggai and Korean from Beihang University started a local version of the rapper Zion.T. movement with the hashtag #WoYeShi. The record garnered Fong his latest - ‘Best Male Vocalist’ award, a sign that even if this latest venture falls through, he’s al Bu Hao ready paved an alternative route to the top of the pops in China. The Force Awakens Kind of like: Despite the relative success of its predecessorStar Wars: The Last Jedi, which garnered a respectable USD52 million- Famous for: in its opening weekend back in 2016, Bruno Mars failed to find its footing at the Chinese box of fice last month. The film earned a mere USD28.7 million making R&B See him in: during its opening weekend, which was well below the mainstream Journey to the studio’s expectations considering the efforts that went West into promoting the film in China, including a partnership between Disney and Wanda Cinemas that led to Star (2016) Wars-themed art exhibitions in 55 movie theaters across the country.

30 | SZ | FEBRUARY 2018 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM [email protected]

WHAT’S NEW

China Will Have World’s Largest Film Market by 2020 From The xx’s languorous dream pop to Super Junior’s boy band club- bangers, here are our favorite tracks from artists playing in the PRD this - News about month. China overtak ing the US to The xx - VCR become the world’s largest Rainie Yang - 雨爱 film market by 2020 first began Bolbbalgan4 - First Love circulating back in 2012, thanks Daniel Chan - 曾经 to an Ernst & Young report on the subject. Namie Amuro - Hero The projection has resurfaced again just two years out from- the deadline after a statement by SAPPRFT that China would William Hu- 没有想不开 produce 800 films across 60,000 cinemas by 2020. Some indus try experts agree with the claim,Wolf citing Warrior China’s II record-breaking- Siu Fay - 日落时让恋爱终结 RMB55.9 billion (USD8.6 billion) box office revenue in 2017, thanks in part to majorCoco hits like Dangal. Because inter Mayday - 你不是真正的快乐 national films often find success in the Middle Kingdom (from Hollywood films like to Indian film , which earned Super Junior - Devil more in China than it did in its home country), the nation can further bolster its sales by importing more foreign films in a way KARD - You in Me that the US cannot. Paired with the slow yet steady rise of the domestic film market, China has all the tools it needs to take the top spot.

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | FEBRUARY 2018| SZ | 31 ARTS | MUSIC

IN THEIR OWN WORDS: MAYBE MARS 10-YEAR COMPILATION ALBUM Compiled by Erica Martin

Widely considered one of the best labels for Chinese independent rock music, Maybe Mars celebrated 10 years of unique and uncompromising releases with a concert series in Beijing last fall. They’re now kicking off 2018 with a 38-track compilation of songs from the punk, rock, noise and experimental bands whose work has defined the label over the past 10 years. We asked a few bands involved in the project to share their favorite memories with Maybe Mars, and their thoughts on the label’s effect on China’s underground

ILLUSTRATION BY ZHENG DONG, DESIGNED BY GUO ZHEN BY ZHENG DONG, DESIGNED ILLUSTRATION rock scene.

Band: Hiperson Genre: rock Hometown: Chengdu Song on album: ‘Curtain’ Band: AV Okubo Genre: punk/noise/experimental Hometown: Wuhan Song on album: ‘Uncle’

We met a lot of friends from working with Maybe Mars. For example, we’ve gotten to know Fazi from Xi’an and The Fallacy from Xinxiang, and in 2016 we planned a concert AV Okubo’s music adventure began a decade together called ‘The Spirit of the Scene.’ For ago when we signed a contract with Maybe Mars. Maybe Mars’ 10th anniversary show in 2017, Since then, our touring has spanned more than we invited Lonely Leary and Birdstriking half the world. In 2013, we toured with legendary to play the first song with us. It was very [English post-punk band] Gang of Four through China energetic with a bunch of boys screaming and Europe. Recently, we successfully invited Dave onstage! Maybe Mars’ more improvised and Sitek [of TV on the Radio] to produce our third full- lax cooperation is very much in tune with length album. One by one our dreams have come true. indie music, and we are very grateful for their Long live Maybe Mars! support.

32 | SZ | FEBRUARY 2018 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM MUSICMUSIC | ARTS

Band: Fazi Genre: post-punk/ surf-rock Hometown: Xi’an Song on album: ‘Borderless’

Band: Alpine Decline Genre: psych-rock Hometown: Beijing via LA - Song on album: ‘Pre-Columbian Maybe Mars has a good sys Artifact’ tem; they clearly understand the ideas of their bands and provide their full support, including a focus on overseas expansion, which is very important to Chinese independent music. Many new Chinese bands are getting more exposure as a result of this. To us, Maybe Mars seemed like an organic manifestation of the scene that had flourished at [Beijing live house] D-22. When we came to Beijing in 2010, we were only in town two nights. We went to D-22 and saw The Molds Band: Dirty Fingers (whose set led to no fewer than three fights Genre: punk in the crowd), Ourselves Beside Me, and PK14 Hometown: Shanghai perform. It was real jaw-on-the-floor type stuff.- Song on album: To us haggard lifers from the music circus, there ‘Diaosita’ was clearly something powerfully vital happen ing under the aegis of Maybe Mars and D-22. We returned to the US, got married, quit our jobs and promptly moved to Beijing.

The artists who sign with Maybe Mars have something very clear in their mind, and when you join the label you are not joining a commercial company, but a family. That’s the reason the label is so careful to sign artists. Once they like you, they spoil you. They support us, give us freedom and help us on a personal level if we are in a difficult moment. They are cool.

Band: Birdstriking Band: Chui Wan Hometown: Beijing Hometown: Beijing Genre: noise rock Genre: psych-rock/ Song on album: ‘25’ noise rock Song on album: ‘One Eye Closed’

Whenever foreigners talk about Chinese bands, they will inevitably mention one or two Maybe Mars bands. In this sense, For me and the band, Maybe Mars is fantastic! Rock and roll fans from the post-80s and - Maybe Mars is not just a record -90s generations basically grew up with Maybe Mars’ music, which is label, but also a family. It’s aes why Maybe Mars is right when they describe themselves as the voice thetically first-class, inclusive, of the Chinese youth. They are more focused on the development of and musicians in the bands have a band, rather than thinking about how well your album is selling, been spared no support and help. or how much money you can make in one show. They don’t consider We are very fortunate and proud these short-term goals, because good works of art must pass to be a part of Maybe Mars. the test of time before they can be proved to be authentic.

Maybe Mars 10 Year Compilation Album is available at www.maybemars.com. ARTS | MUSIC CHINA Three New Homegrown Albums on MUSIC CORNER Our Radar This Month

By Erica Martin

Into One Name by Organ Tapes

Formerly based in Shanghai before relocating to London, where he works with Bala Club and is gradually finding notoriety, producerInto One andName vocalist Organ Tapes released this record with - Genome666MBP during a visit to Shanghai over the winter holidays. With a pop sensibility that approaches romantic balladry, is engaging from the first hums of its lovely open er ‘Rust’ to its closing track’s final twang. In between, Organ Tapes overlays dancehall-like beats with a dizzying array of experimental sounds, including Christian choir samples, the burbling of a brook, spare piano and plenty more. His autotuned vocals, mumbling about broken hearts and missed connections, sound like an emotionally present cyborg. The recordInto One is also Name proof that Genome can embrace an even more diverse range of club music than they have thus far, because despite being poppier and a bit more accessible than their other releases, ’s sci-fi Listenand avant-garde here: genome666mbp.bandcamp.com/album/gnm005-into-one-name elements allow it to fit squarely in with the rest of the label’s philosophy.

Sprout by Sound & Fury

Shenzhen’s Boring Productions proudly announces on their Bandcamp page that “bedroom pop rules the world,” so it makes sense thatSprout they’d end 2017 by releasing the debut of lo-fi pop band Sound & Fury. Hailing from Chengdu, the four-piece group toured and experimented for six years before settling down to record , an apt album name for a band in its fruitful early stages. Vacillating between sugary pop and brooding shoegaze, but with a lo-fi grittiness throughout, the album notably features both male and female vocals. Several of the best tracks, like the shambling ‘It’s All Ok,’ shine thanks to the mumbling female voice. The album as a whole has a sun-kissed, reflective quality, ending on a strong note with the stirring track ‘Candy ListenMemory’ here: and boringproductions.bandcamp.com/album/sprout seven-minute shoegaze closer ‘Snow Song.’

Love is Illusion by Joy Ginger

Beijing producer Joy Ginger offers up an EP of liquid, loungy R&B, managing to be profoundly pared-down and relaxing while still appealing throughout. The album’s name plus the cool blues and neon of its striking cover make the record seem like it will be much more melancholic than it actually is. The songs feel earnest and romantic, with twinkling, future-forward sounds overlaid onto classic R&B grooves that deserve the genre name ‘neo-soul.’ He also braids in the types of ambient sounds that are appearing more and more in downtempo electronic music,- with a charcoal pencil scribbling noise at the end of ‘Luv Letter’ and a few plaintive cat meows throughout the effervescent ‘Stay in My Arms.’ On the remixes, fellow producer sususu seam lessly weaves a horn section into ‘Moonbow,’ adding layers of funk to the vocal samples. It’s Listenanother here: solid babelrecords.bandcamp.com/album/love-is-illusion release to bolster the already intriguing Babel Records.

34 | SZ | FEBRUARY 2018 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM

MOVING MOUNTAINS

The Rural Chinese Town Becoming a Global Skiing Hub

by Noelle Mateer additional reporting by Chang Qian

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Hebee doesn’t care about winter sports. “I don’t really care for skiing,” she tells me, at the base of one of China’s finest slopes. “I’ve only done it a handful of times in my past three years here. I’m too busy.” Hebee is just here to work. The restaurant manager had originally left her hometown, in another county of Hebei province’s Zhangjiakou, after university, to work in Shenzhen. The opportunities there were greater, the city had a fun, region – in fact, the first ski field didn’t international feel, and it was warmer. open here until 1996. People here did She loved it. not grow up learning to ski. They grew But then Zhangjiakou was an- up, mostly, farming. nounced as the home of the 2022 Only now, Chongli is in the midst of a Winter Olympics, alongside Beijing. jaw-dropping transformation. China is Hebee felt the pull of opportunities currently experiencing a boom in winter close to home. And so she went to sports facilities. In 2000, China was Chongli, a rural district of Zhangjiakou, home to 50 ski resorts. As of 2015, the where, she’ll admit, she’s kind of bored. country had 568, according to China “Are you happy here?” I ask. Ski Industry White Book, written by in- “Sure,” she says with a shrug. dustry veteran and vice president of a “Are you looking forward to the major ski development company Benny Olympics in 2022?” Wu. “Sure… I guess,” she says with a Nowhere has been more impacted by laugh and another shrug. this transformation than Chongli, where “What about your friends and family, a small population of 126,000 now do they ski?” supports seven ski resorts. Since the “Not really,” she says. “Well, actually, announcement, Chongli has seen in- I do have one friend who likes to ski. vestment in local ice and snow tourism She came up here once to try it, and reaching nearly RMB88 billion as of now she loves it. She’s from Beijing last summer, and last winter (2016-17), though.” Chongli received 2.77 million visitors, The mountains around Chongli are according to China Daily. a ruddy brown, and snow must be pro- “Most of our customers are duced artificially for its mountains to be Beijingers,” says Summer Zhou, one skiable at all. Skiing is not native to this of the directors of Thaiwoo Ski Resort.

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“We give some free passes to locals, but they often prefer to work.” Before Thaiwoo took over its section of Chongli, a tiny farming village existed on the property. The average income there was RMB600 per month, making it one of the poorest regions in China. Today, this area is the wealthiest in Zhangjiakou. The story of fast-paced development is one we’ve heard about happening in countless towns in China before – except in Chongli, the stakes are higher. First, there’s a deadline: all slopes and infrastructure must be ready be- I don’t really care for skiing. fore 2022. But most importantly, the Olympics will introduce more than I’ve only done it a handful of GDP-boosting infrastructure projects: they’ll give the town a new identity. Chongli residents, many of whom had times in my past three years never skied before the Winter Olympics announcement, are now the backbone here. I’m too busy of the country’s finest ski resorts. Despite their lack of familiarity with the sport, residents of Chongli are finding a way to profit off the recent push. Liu Juan is a 20-year Chongli resi- dent who never learned to ski until very recently. But she’s making money from China’s ski boom nonetheless. In early 2015, Liu invested in property along downtown Chongli’s main strip, and opened one of the town’s first coffee shops. (Today, there’s a Starbucks in Thaiwoo). “It was a big gamble,” she says. But it paid off, when later that year, the International Olympic Committee named Zhangjiakou, along with Beijing, the host of the 2022 Winter Olympics. From her cafe, whose decor looks conveniently similar to popular Korean chain Maan Coffee, she tells me there were hardly any foreigners in Chongli before the announcement. Now, the former vice premier of Croatia is a regular. “He’s some sort of ambassador for the Winter Olympics. He came and drank my coffee,” she says, referring to Ante Simoni, who was the Croatian ambassador to China from 2008 to 2013,

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Most of our customers are Beijingers. We give some free passes to locals, but they often prefer to work

and was quoted by Xinhua as saying: quick walk from her cafe, she says: “Chongli boasts of high quality snow “Ski culture is something that was in- and the best skiing coaches, so wel- troduced to the city. It’s not original.” come to Chongli for skiing fun.” To see a part of Chongli’s past that Few people know Chongli better predates its snow sports, Liu recom- than Liu. As president of the Chongli mends something unusual: a Catholic Photographers’ Association, she’s cathedral. dedicated the past two decades to “There’s a Catholic history of this documenting the county with her cam- town – it’s been around for 300 years,” era. She gives me a copy of Charming Liu says. Chongli, a book of photos that she pro- Today, Chongli hosts a sizeable duced with fellow photographers. Catholic minority – left over from mis- “See this?” she says, pointing at sionary visits that occurred centuries a photo of a lush, verdant valley on ago. In the 18th century, Chongli, its pages. “I took this photo in 2007. then known as Xiwanzi, was a hub for Today, it’s just a highway.” She flips the Catholicism in Northern China, accord- page: “This one is a ski resort now.” ing to Xinhua. Since the Olympic announcement, Xiwanzi was designated as a diocese Liu has shifted her focus from nature in 1946, and outlawed shortly thereaf- shots to documentarian ones, focus- ter, when the People’s Republic was ing on the changes happening in her founded. region. “That church was rebuilt,” says Liu. “I take pictures of houses being de- “The original one got burned down dur- molished and apartments being built,” ing the Cultural Revolution.” she tells us. “Because I think it’s impor- Catholicism is no longer banned tant to document the changes.” by the Chinese government, but the When I ask what her photo subjects Diocese of Xiwanzi is. Priests in the un- think of the changes, she says they’re recognized diocese refused to officially mostly happy. Residents who’d had register as members of the Patriotic their land taken away and given to Association – thus rendering their prac- resorts were, for the most part, com- tice illegal. Several priests have been pensated generously, as well as given arrested in Hebei in recent years, ac- new apartments downtown. And according to CNN. cording to both Hebee and Thaiwoo’s Liu, meanwhile, is not Catholic. She Zhou, farmers who lost their land to just thinks history is important. new projects are first in line for jobs on “The Great Wall was built here during the resort. the Ming dynasty, and Chongli also has “We offer training for locals,” says this religious culture,” she says. “The Zhou, who says many go on to be ski local government isn’t showing the full instructors. character of Chongli.” When I ask Liu if I should visit Skiing may not be from Hebei, but Chongli’s Ice and Snow Museum, a many are quick to claim that it is from

40 cover story

Wanlong resort. ‘Skymaster,’ because he wears a Storm “He thinks Chongli is great, and Trooper costume to Star Wars events would like to come back to work, but in his spare time. “He’s part of the of- maybe after some exchange programs ficial Storm Trooper army,” his business to the West,” she says. “A lot of fami- partner, Xin, tells me. lies here are in the same situation. My Both Skymaster and Xin have been friend’s son just graduated high school, passionate skiers for years – though and started working as a ski coach.” Xin says that, when he first started Recently, neighboring Zhangjiakou skiing in Chongli in 2007, there was University introduced a mandatory ski- just one guesthouse, and only one hot ing instruction program for freshmen, pot restaurant in town. When I ask Xin the first of its kind in the country. what he would have thought had some- Wan Bo is a university student who one told him then that Chongli would spends his winters in Chongli, in be- one day host the Olympics, he laughs. tween semesters in Tianjin. When I ask But by 2015, the tides had changed. China. The world’s oldest documented why, he says, “All my friends love to Skymaster opened a store on Chongli’s skiing culture can be found in Xinjiang, ski. I want to learn to ski and go skiing main strip, and waited patiently for where cave paintings in a remote town with them.” his new home to be announced as an show ancient dwellers carving up the “The market is largely Beijingers, and Olympic host. (If there’s one paradox slopes. increasingly, people from Shanghai and I come across again and again while “You know, we say skiing started in South China, who travel north to ski,” talking to Chongli residents, it’s that China,” says Benny Wu. “But this is not says Benny Wu. everyone was surprised Chongli got that kind of skiing.” Beijinger Cui Bo invested in Chongli the Games – but also, no one thought Wu is one of the world’s foremost property five years ago, before the they’d go to the runner-up: Almaty, experts on China’s ski industry. He be- town was announced as an Olympic Kazakhstan). gan working in Chongli in 2005 (“it was host. Cui, by the way, goes by Today, Skymaster and Xin fix ski very underdeveloped then,” he says), and later joined Wanda to develop a European-style ski town in Jilin province, complete with two golf courses. Today, he’s turned his attention back to Hebei. But while he’s an old hand in China’s ski industry, Wu only started skiing when he was an adult. He believes a deeper Chinese ski culture will come from the next generation. “I started when I was 30 years old,” he says. “But my children are 9 and 11, and I’ve already got them learning on the slopes.” The China National Tourism Administration expects to see over 300 million people involved in winter sports by 2022. Wu believes this is possible, given the current upward trends in the industry. Liu’s son, for instance, is currently studying winter sports management at a sports academy in Shijiazhuang, the provincial capital. Every winter of his childhood, Liu sent him to ski camps at

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The Great Wall was built here during the Ming dynasty, and Chongli also has a religious culture. The local government isn’t showing the full character of Chongli

parts and sell sporting accessories, from an area famous for its meadows, and their shop, Nordica Lounge, is now which I absolutely must visit, in the one of the most successful ski stores in summertime. Even the real estate pam- the area. “We have a lot of foreign cus- phlets I’d picked up showed pictures tomers,” Skymaster says. “But mostly of Chongli, in the summer time, with a people from Beijing, some Shanghai.” description beneath reading, “The aver- Chongli residents? Not so much. age temperature in the summertime is Skymaster believes life has improved 18 degrees Celsius.” in Chongli over the past few years, It is perhaps an oversimplification, and even mentions seeing traffic jams but perhaps also very telling, that eve- form on the street outside his shop – a ryone in Chongli seems to prefer the brand new phenomenon. summertime. They, like so many people Skymaster tells me Chongli is best in in China, still prefer summer weather the summertime, which reminds me – to snow. But as long as there’s profit to Liu Juan said Chongli was best in the gain from China’s snow sports boom, summertime. Summer Zhou, from her they’ll go along for the ride. office in Beijing, said, “You must visit And then they’ll enjoy their home- Chongli during the summertime.” town, without the snow machines and Hebee had mentioned that she’s tourists, in the summertime.

42 cover story NOW YOU SKI ME A Quick and Dirty Guide to China's Ski Areas Chongli (Hebei) Beidahu (Jilin) Why Go: Some of China’s best slopes, in easy Why Go: Arguably the best slopes in China. striking distance of Beijing. Slopes: High quality. Slopes: Varies. Everything from easy to difficult. Facilities: As tricked-out as Dongbei gets. Facilities: Top-notch. Thaiwoo has multiple high- Wanda’s village is in the style of an Alpine ski end hotels operating at the base of its slopes; town, and a Club Med offers all-meals-and-booze- Wanlong has been known to throw music festivals. inclusive packages. How to Get There: Shuttles operate from downtown Beijing. A high-speed train will connect Beijing Chongli to Beijing in 2019. Why Go: You've been offered as tribute to ‘the Capital.’ Yabuli (Heilongjiang) Slopes: Mild. The ones in Nanshan aren’t thrilling, Why Go: You’d like to hit up the Harbin Ice but they aren’t awful either – bonus points for be- Festival afterward. ing an easy daytrip. Slopes: Passable. Facilities: Meh. These aren’t destinations – Facilities: Average. Yabuli is one of China’s long- they’re more like afternoons. But hey – at least est running ski areas… but that also means its of- you can be downtown with a craft beer in your ferings are less than modern. hand in an hour.

Guangzhou's Winter Wonderland As the Middle Kingdom warmly embraces All in all, the indoor facility will clock in at 75,000 square the frosty bosom of winter sports, perhaps it meters of skiable area and sport a considerable 66-meter vertical should come as no surprise that a large number drop. Developers expect the park to be able to accommodate of the breakout names and places to watch are 3,000 skiers at a time, which is good news, as this one-of-a-kind hailing from the nation’s cooler climes. addition to the roster of weekend activities in the city is sure to Don’t write off South China too quickly draw crowds. though – Guangzhou is getting a piece of the action, with plans to build one of the world’s largest indoor ski parks in the city’s Huadu District already under way. The Wanda Group, which recently opened a massive 80,000 square meter indoor ski park in icy Harbin, is bringing snowy fun to the City of Flowers too, with another enormous indoor park under construction at the new Guangzhou Wanda Mall set to open in June of next year. Cantoners will get the chance to escape the subtropical stickiness of daily Guangzhou life with four full-length slopes ranging in difficulty from beginner to amateur to professional, the longest of which will measure 460 meters from top to bottom.

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GOING Wu Dajing Short Track Speed Skating – Men’s

Having earned a silver (Men’s 500 me- FOR ters) and a bronze medal (5000 meter relay) at his Winter Olympics debut in 2014, the 23-year-old speed skater from Heilongjiang just claimed victory at the ISU Short Track Speed Skating World Cup in Seoul last November. Will his win- GOLD ning streak lead him to snatch his first ever Olympic gold this month?

Sui Wenjing & Han Cong Pairs’ Figure Skating

8 Chinese While this is the duo’s first time repre- senting China in the Winter Olympics, Athletes to Sui and Han have been collecting accolades for years, including a gold medal Watch in the at the World Championships in 2017. Fans are hoping their luck will continue in 2018 Winter Pyeongchang. Olympics 44 cover story

ShortHan Track Tianyu Speed Skating – Men’s FreestyleJia Zongyang Skiing – Men’s Aerials Han was just 17 when he picked up his first silver (Men’s 1500 meters) and China may be a snow sports underdog, bronze medals (Men’s 5000 meter relay) but this Liaoning native’s victory in the in Sochi. Four years later, and with more Freestyle Ski Aerial World Cup last international trophies under his belt, ana- December is giving Chinese sports fans lysts have high hopes that Han will earn hope. Pyeongchang will likely be Jia’s his first Olympic gold in Pyeongchang. final Winter Olympics – will the 26-year- old be able to add a gold medal to his name before retirement?

FreestyleXu Mengtao Skiing – ShortFan Track Kexin Speed Women’s Aerials Skating – Women’s Zhou Yang Having just won gold in the FIS Freestyle International Ski World Cup in Salt Short Track Speed Originally a favorite, Fan fell down during Lake City last month, the 2014 silver Skating – Women’s the 500-meter race in Sochi and failed to medalist in Freestyle Skiing arrives in claim any medal in the event. (Though Pyeongchang with great momentum. Xu At just 26 years old, the Changchun-born she ended up taking home silver in the will be competing on the first day of the speed skater has already won Olympic 1000-meter just days later.) Will Fan fi- Year of the Dog, which also happens gold three times, finishing first in the nally be able to pick herself up and dust to be her father’s birthday. In a recent Women’s 1500 meters race during the herself off right at the spot she fell? 2010 and 2014 Winter Games. The pres- interview, the 27-year-old skier has ex- sure is on for Zhou to defend her title this pressed her hope to bring home a gold month. medal as a gift for Papa Xu. 45 COMM UNITY

CouchSurfing A bed or couch and local perspective, p48

Take Five Healthcare in China P49 P50

46 | SZ | FEBRUARY 2018 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM FEATURE 47 - - SZ |

| Cost: Your dignity 4. Walk in the park in 4. Walk Cost: Free, hope of a future relationship 5. Browsing pre-wedding pre-wedding 5. Browsing books photo in a commercial tent Find a gaudy find peo inside you’ll square, photo ple selling pre-wedding filled books through packages with sample images. A bride holding aon a beach! A groom guitar! If bringing up mar fake go doesn’t riage on the first date should consider you well, down in date your want you whether the picture. you’ll sound about 3-meters deep. sound about 3-meters you’ll WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | FEBRUARY 2018 | FEBRUARY WWW.THATSMAGS.COM - route ahead of time and note a landmark ahead of time and note route about water, recite it beside the pond and recite about water, – say, an artificial pond. Memorize a poem pond. Memorize an artificial – say, Okay, a bit cliché. But a walk in the park can in the park a bit cliché. But a walk Okay, how far they can walk. Be sure to scout your to Be sure can walk. they far how teach you a lot about someone. For instance, For someone. about lot a you teach 3. Billiards with a side of savings. By Sky Thomas Gidge Cost: as low as RMB8 per hour handy guide to a fiscally responsible V-day be yourV-day ticket to domestic bliss Chinese travel New Year budget. Let this perhaps your date can help with your stroke. stroke. can help with your date your perhaps responsible for blowing you and your lover’s than treating them some to one-on-one romancing. way to show that special someone how much you care ebruary is the season no better of love and there’s But datenight doesn’t have to leave a hole in your F pocket and there’s no reasonpocket Day should and there’s be Valentine’s liard places can be as cheap as RMB8 per hour. If you’re a pro at pool, it's a a pro If you’re places can be as cheap as RMB8 per hour. liard great chance to show off by pocketing some shots. If you’re just a beginner, just a beginner, some shots. If you’re pocketing off by show chance to great Is that an awkward silence? No, it’s the clack of billiard balls. Street-side bil balls. Street-side silence? No, it’s the clack of billiard Is that an awkward Five Date Ideas for the Penny-Pinching Paramour VALENTINE’S DAY ON THE CHEAP CHEAP THE ON DAY VALENTINE’S when you throw that philter into the mix? into that philter throw you when before hitting the allies. Who knows what will happen what Who knows hitting the allies. before a high-end booze shop and grab some deer penis wine some deer booze shop and grab a high-end Cost: RMB79 for alcohol walking’ may be a better title for this activity. Stop off at Stop activity. this title for be a better may walking’ them out of the safety of the city center. ‘Filthy alley ‘Filthy of the city center. them out of the safety Take your date out of their comfort zone by taking by zone out of their comfort date your Take 2. Urban exploration 2. Urban shoppers. Unless you’re into that. into shoppers. Unless you’re bedside company of other faux bedside company a weekday, or you might have the have might or you a weekday, to lounge around. Just go during lounge around. to Cost: about RMB50 cuisine, there is plenty of spacecuisine, there some authentic *ahem* Swedish some authentic *ahem* into bed? IKEA. After dining on After bed? IKEA. into The fastest way to get your date get your to way The fastest 1. Furniture shopping 1. Furniture COMM AROUND TOWN UNITY

DEAR JAMIE Baker’s Boredom

Dear Jamie,

My wife and I have been in Shenzhen for six months. I work for an American company that has offices in the city and we relocated to South China from Portland, Oregon. Unfortunately, when we moved, my wife had to give up her job at a small bakery. While the gig was more of a passion project than a career, she has quickly become bored living as- a ‘traveling spouse.’ I suggested she hop on the English teach ing train, but she has little interest in the idea of working with children. At present, she basically sits around the house all day watching TV waiting for me to- finish at the office for the day. It has become tiresome on our relation ship, because, as you’d expect, she hasn’t met many people lazing around the house and I feel like she is unhappy – and that I am responsible. -InWhat the can Doghouse I do to get her more involved in the community and out of the house? SOCIAL SKILLS Dear Doghouse, - CouchSurfing in the PRD The issue you are facing is a well estab - lished one, so much so that a survey released - by InterNations a couple years back actually - It’s hospitality-meets-networking for the digi on the road as well. touched on the topic. tal age. Inspired by American founder Casey Since its founding, CouchSurfing has host According to said survey, 60 percent of ex Fenton's trip to Iceland, CouchSurfing started- ed countless travellers and a total of 550,000 pat spouses said that giving up their previous- as a small project in 1999 and turned into a - events, including language exchanges, dance career “has been difficult for them.” Slightly non-profit corporation in 2004. Today, the or classes, hikes and dinners. According to their less than 50 percent stated that they are com ganization boasts 12 million members world website, registered members are spread pletely happy with their romantic relationship. wide, all coexisting in an online community across the world in approximately 200,000 - I’d say it’s fair to accept that your wife is where accommodation, food and local know- cities. having trouble getting into the swing of things- how are shared mutually between hosts and - Guangzhou’s CouchSurfing branch, for in in Shenzhen and may (or may not, I’m a life travelers – free of charge. CouchSurfing's only- stance, began in 2007, with weekly meet-ups- coach not a mind reader) miss having some revenue stream is its optional paid identifica being held ever since. Since the beginning, thing to keep her occupied from nine to five. tion verification service which charges mem Guangzhou expat Balazs Kaplar, who stud Short of moving back home, I’d suggest bers a tiny fee to prove they are who they- say ied in the city in 2001-02 and later moved 1) talking to her about what she wants out of they are. to live here, has organized the meet-ups, life in China, and 2) seeing if there is a job in Visitors to a new city can use the ser where CouchSurfing hosts, travelers and any Shenzhen that better suits her skill set. vice to put them in touch with a local. The individuals interested in community can get There is no shortage of fine F&B shops CouchSurfer not only gets accommodation, together. “The meeting is about travelling. It's in Shenzhen that would probably jump at the be it a bed, couch or some empty floor space, for people who are on the road and happen idea of having an experienced baker on their - but also a local perspective and connection to be in Guangzhou at the time and for locals team. Maybe I’m wrong, but it sounds like she that crosses oceans, continents and cultures. who are interested to meet travelers who are would-Jamie be happier cookin’ up a storm than sing In return, hosts get to meet interesting Govisiting to couchsurfing.com their city.” to sign up as a host or ing the ABCs with 7-year-old kids. people from around the world, while also - traveler, or to connect with community members Problem? [email protected]. building connections and positive reviews for organizing weekly meet-ups. their profile, allowing them to enjoy the hos pitality of others when they find themselves

48 | SZ | FEBRUARY 2018 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM [email protected]

TAKE FIVE Alexandre Lacroix

- Alexandre Lacroix has lived in Guangzhou for - confidently placed one of his legs next to where the past three years, making a name for himself she was sitting and bent towards her. He ac - as an effective organizer of late-night debauch cidently pushed her bag into the water. He tried ery (read: he promotes nightclubs). This month his best to get it back and apologized for 15 min we caught up with the French national to chat Whatutes before factors taking do ayou taxi look home. at when inviting about his experience in Guangzhou’s dynamic someone to come to a party? Tellparty us scene. a bit about your work experience in Guangzhou. - Of course, people contributing to the brand image are more welcome that others, which I’ve been doing business with clubs since I ar means I appreciate guests to be handsome, well- rived in China four years ago. During the day, I - dressed, well-educated, outgoing, et cetera. But used to be a sales director at a trading company, Whateverybody advice is always could welcome. you offer people look- which I left to focus on my other growing activi ing to start a career as a club promoter? ties. At the moment, I am preparing a mobile app and still doing consulting in sales-related fields – when I’m free from the ‘night world.’ Your nickname is ‘Hot Pot.’ How did you Treat people the way they deserve to be treated pany’s name, while walking in an apple orchard. come up with that moniker? and always keep your word. Remember that I was walking on a Chinese street, so I came up everybody is important and has their own role Whatwith Hot is thePot. stupidest thing you have seen to play. No club would be profitable without - I don’t really like hot pot, I was just looking for someone do in a club? spenders, no spender would come without a nickname to protect my privacy. I had two dancers and no dancer would perform in a bor - criteria: 1) it had to be easy to remember and 2)- ing club, so inviting a few crazy students might absolutely not scary! These were the very same One good friend of mine was trying to impress be as strategic as inviting ballers (aka big spend reasons why Steve Jobs chose Apple for his com a girl while sitting on the edge of a fountain. He ers).

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | FEBRUARY 2018 | SZ | 49 COMMUNITY | HEALTH

GOING FORWARD The Future of Healthcare in China By Dr. Sandro Rasgado

department. One of the main reasons for this was poor government regulations: there was a need for a change in the culture of health providers and that depended on effective government policies. - A study released in 2004, led by Meng- Kin Lim, found that the majority of partici pants felt that doctors in public hospitals have better skills than their counterparts in private clinics. Additionally, there was also - the perception that some doctors from the private sector did not possess sufficient cer tifications. On the other hand, public hospitals were not immune to criticism. Public institutions- were viewed as having employees with poor interpersonal skills, being overly bu reaucratic and failing to adjust care to suit a patient’s needs. Here, private clinics were- seen as a useful alternative, being viewed by survey participants as more caring, respon - sive and flexible. One of the main issues facing the health care sector is the inability of professional - and governmental agencies to fully monitor the enormous web of healthcare organiza tions available in China. Increasingly, as the economy develops and the general population gets more aware- of oral health, there is an opportunity for further growth within the sector – and gov ernments and private actors each have an- important role to play in the expansion. With the marketplace expected to be come more competitive, organizations are working to position themselves by offering quality services to middle and upper income families. There is also a focus on cosmetic- treatments. Going forward, patients need to be em powered with the right information to make educated choices about their health, which - will, consequently, impact health outcomes and patient satisfaction in both public and pri vate hospitals – as well as in the dentist chair. ver the past 30 years, many things 2040, citizens over 65 years old will number Dr. Sandro Rasgado is currently working as family - dentist, cosmetic dentist expert, implantologist and Ohave changed in China. Most notable 374 million. clinical consultant at is the migration of people from rural The demographic change will conse - Deron Dental. Office areas to big cities, which has impacted both quently impact oral health. For instance, - hours: 9am-6pm the economy and society. seniors are more susceptible to chronic dis Mon to Sun; 39/F, The healthcare system in particular has eases, tooth decay, gum disease and oral pa Tianying Plaza East evolved dramatically. But despite spending thologies. Amidst this looming demographic Tower, No.226 Liede on health services keepng up with China’s challenge, a varied landscape of healthcare Dadao, Tianhe District, growing GDP, spending on oral healthcare providers are vying to serve China’s aging Guangzhou 广州市天河 remains low. population. - 区珠江新城猎德大道226 By 2020, China’s population is expected In the past, private health organizations 号天盈广场东塔39层5-9 to reach 1.5 billion people. The population were often perceived as having poor health (020-3886 4821) is also aging rapidly. It is estimated that by care quality or lacking in the patient safety

50 | SZ | FEBRUARY 2018 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM EDUCATION | COMMUNITY

HARD TRUTHS Dealing with Child Protection Concerns By Lena Gidwani

- he headline shocked expat parents If you’re shaking your head in disbelief, abuse. Creating a safe teaching and learning Tthroughout China: “[T]eacher dis don’t. Across the world, children are facing environment and identifying students who missed for sending sexually explicit an epidemic. Child sexual abuse appears to are suffering or at risk of harm – and then messages to students.” be one of the most widespread health issues taking suitable action – are vital steps to help Recently making the rounds on WeChat that children face in our modern world, with- keep children safe. was a lurid post detailing the abuses of a a devastating array of lasting consequences. As parents, you can help by ensuring teacher in Shanghai who should’ve never From emotional problems to issues with re that the school your children go to maintains been allowed anywhere near children, lationships and trust, children today aren’t as a solid child protection policy, with clear let alone working in a school surrounded - safe as we want to believe they are. guidelines and trained staff members that by them. What makes this so particularly It’s not about putting a GPS tracker on have the professional responsibility and painful is that the perpetrator was a trust them and monitoring their every move so training to comply. Perhaps it’s time that you ed individual, someone the kids knew well, they don’t get kidnapped and molested. It’s ask, if you haven’t already. so much so that they felt guilty and unable more about ensuring that you’re keeping We’re living in a moment when victims of to report it. Forget stranger danger, moms an eye on your child and allowing for open, abuse are speaking up after years of silence. and dads. These are the people that we honest conversation, so that if ever an issue This has proven a breakthrough for not need to be wary of. - occurs, they feel that they can talk about it. just women, but for communities that have Research from the US by the National Their body belongs to them and the key is to maintained a culture of denial. Pioneering an Children’s Alliance tells us that an esti keep the doors of communication open at all important and overdue conversation, we are mated 90 percent of child sexual abuse times. now at a point where we are ready to come perpetrators are people that our children- This is precisely why every home, every clean and say that yes, we have a problem, know, love and trust, like a family doctor, school and every public place where children and we are ready to deal with it. a tutor or even a sports coach or univer gather requires trusted, responsible adults The protection of our children is not sity counselor. In most cases, they often that are willing to stand up and protect our only an individual issue of one teacher or have power over a child’s future. About 30 young ones from any and all forms of child a school, but a community concern as well. percent of that figure are family members. sexual abuse. Everyone has to be involved in our efforts to And just 10 percent of all perpetrators are At schools in particular everyone plays a combat child sexual abuse, and it starts with strangers. part in protecting them from such harm and an honest conversation. WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | FEBRUARY 2018 | SZ | 51 CITY SCENES Shenzhen New Year Midi Festival (Supported by )

Themed ‘No Plastic Food Packaging’, the 2017/18 Shenzhen New Year's Midi Festival once again assembled thousands of music fans at Shenzhen Universiade Sports Center to welcome the new year with sonic celebration. The annual theme of 2018 is No plastic food packaging. International and indie favorites like Ensiferum and Colin Phils joined China's homegrown talents like Second Hand Rose and Ono Jiangzhe, among dozens of hip hop, folk, metal and rock performers. The 2017 Midi Kids Band Competition took place at the Kid's Midi stage. Also, congratulations on all winners of the 9th China Rock Midi Awards, especially Penicillin (Best New Artist), Li Zhi (Best Live Performer and Best Male Rock Vocals) and Re-TROS (Rock Album of the Year and Best Rock Performance by Group With Vocals).

FC SES & My Star Christmas Party 2017 (Supported by )

It was a heartwarming end to 2017 in Shenzhen as FC SES and My Star brought families together for a great cause. Nearly 50 children enjoyed a day of fun with football and basketball coaches at a Christmas event sponsored by Urban Family, in support of ‘A Heart for China.’ Families donated over RMB5,300 to the charity, along with an abundance of household goods to help people in need. May 2018 bring even more support for this worthy cause.

52 | SZ | FEBRUARY 2018 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM TEDxZhujiangNewTown 2018 (Supported by )

The 2018 edition of TEDxZhujiangNewTown was held on January 14 from 1-6.30pm at the Grand Hyatt Guangzhou, embracing this year's theme of ‘City Future, City Now.’ Eight diverse speakers from a range of professional fields, from manufacturing and commerce to sports and entertainment, shared their stories, viewpoints and observations of life in Guangzhou and the Pearl River Delta at large.

Ganèa Restaurant Opening (Supported by )

Six months after its construction broke ground, Ganèa Kitchen Fairy Tales officially opened its doors in Guangzhou’s Pazhou area last month. The new establishment is headed by a dedicated team of restaurateurs and winemakers from the European nation of Moldova, who aim to introduce a kick of life to Guangzhou’s food and beverage scene. Guests were presented with finger food, as well as English roast beef made from Australian premium, grain-fed Black Angus beef. The meaty treats were prepared live for attendees in the restaurant’s open kitchen.

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | FEBRUARY 2018 | SZ | 53 PRD FOCUS

- - head of the 2018 Chinese New Year Toni & Guy has just expanded to Foshan. On January 10, The British School of holiday, China Hotel, A Mariott Hotel and The new branch store in Foshan is lo Guangzhou welcomed pioneering cel - Zi Gei Jau Group joined hands to launch cated on the first floor of iPark, a space list Mike Block and Grammy Award- the ‘I Love Canton’ Chinese New Year gift set. of over 900 square meters in Foshan’s financial winning violinist Mario Gotoh. They both pro The aim of the package is to recover the one-of- CBD area, and is near Wanda Plaza and Ikea vided special workshops for students as part a-kind gift-giving tradition of Canton through Foshan, boasting a luxurious, black and vintage of the school's collaboration with Juilliard – the innovation. fusion style. world’s leading performing arts conservatoire. A

- In 2018, Cathay Pacific Airways has more to offer for passen total of 11 five-star hotels in Geneva, namely Le Richemond, Genève, gers, including a brand-new model of Airbus, new routes to Intercontinental Genève, Hôtel de la Paix, Hôtel d’Angleterre, Métropole Washington, Brussels,Washington Dublin, Copenhagen, Post Guardian Barcelona, Tel Aviv Genève, La Réserve, Mövenpick Hotel & Casino Genève, Beau-Rivage, and Fukuoka, as well as the addition of Wi-Fi and periodicals and Four Seasons Hôtel des Bergues, Mandarin Oriental Genève and Grand Hôtel newspapers such as the , the and more. Kempinski Genève, conducted a road show in four Chinese cities from January 22 to 26. A buffet dinner was held on January 24 by the Switzerland consulate to celebrate the success of the road show. A 54 | SZ | FEBRUARY 2018 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM Shenzhen reviews, events and information

This month 58 The Grapevine 60 Chinese Desserts 62 New Restaurants 65 New Bars FOOD, DRINK & EVENTS IN SHENZHEN

Sweet but Strange Five oddball Chinese desserts you should try, p60

Oldie but Goodie Mains from Spain P58 P64

56 | SZ | FEBRUARY 2018 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM WE TRIED IT 57 by Chongqing’s by Chongqing’s I wish this meal to this question, to form that I could form that I could good news: Lay’s good news: Lay’s eat, casual snack you answered yes answered you variety of huoguo. enjoy on the go? If go? the on enjoy JFEBRUARY 2018 | SZ | | JFEBRUARY WWW.THATSMAGS.COM Chongqing hot pot and thought: geez, then we have some some have we then came in an easy-to- an in came celebrated regional has a flavor inspired has a flavor Have you ever eaten eaten ever you Have - -

The chips do have a mild The chips do have kick, but it’s peppercorn eating to nothing compared in Tabasco soaked a cracker because sauce and wasabi lost an ill-advised you a during wager drunken of Cards round late-night Humanity. Against Crinkle-cut. ones, the only we’re Maybe (or crinkle-cut but aren’t or or ruffled, wavy-cut, call the hell you whatever from) are you them where chips oh-so-much more plain, old, than desirable chips?normal-cut potato with us, you’ll agree If you learn that to be happy Spicy Hot Numb & Lay’s crinkle-cut, are Flavor Pot any books, (in our which is kind of the icing on way) say, should we – or the cake meat in the thinly-sliced the pot!

The taste is true to name. is true to The taste the Numb & Spicy Hot Pot above, As stated inter an impressive chips are potato Flavor taste and invigorating of the bold pretation indulging in the fiery when one experiences that is Chongqing hot pot.hell-broth Hot, hot. but not too and Sichuan hot pot isWhile Chongqing dread those who unpalatable to generally consider these spiciness, we unrelenting accessible – even be largely to chips Lay’s of heat. unfond are chip consumers who for mala huoguo, the Chinese

Admittedly, Lay’s Numb & Spicy Hot Pot Pot Spicy Hot Numb & Lay’s Admittedly,

things a try!” Here are our thoughts: our are things a try!” Here and said aloud, “What the hell, let's give these and said aloud, “What the hell, let's give recently came across the chips in Guangzhou came across recently awhile (in Hong Kong, anyway), but we only only but we anyway), Kong, (in Hong awhile Flavor chips appear to have been around for for been around have chips appear to Flavor are both easily recognizable in the chips. recognizable both easily are broth and the bite of Sichuan peppercorn of Sichuan peppercorn and the bite broth sake. The zesty taste of Chongqing-style of Chongqing-style The zesty taste sake. flavor that is incredibly similar to its name- to similar that is incredibly flavor Sichuan and Chongqing), the chips deliver a Sichuan and Chongqing), the chips deliver term for numbingly spicy hot pot from spicy hot pot from numbingly for term translation of translation by the creative geniuses at Lay’s (a literal (a literal at Lay’s geniuses the creative by Dubbed ‘Numb & Spicy Hot Pot Flavor’ Flavor’ Dubbed ‘Numb & Spicy Hot Pot

We Tried Lay's Spicy Hot Pot Chips and So Should You Pot So Hot Spicy and Chips Should Lay's Tried We By Matthew Bossons CRUNCH HOT POT WITH A A WITH POT HOT GRAPE VINE THE SCANDALOUS SCOOP We’re Digging:

Late-night snacking, apparently – stats show Shenzhen tops all other Chinese cities in nighttime food deliveries; Aussie import Boneshaker (see page 63) serving up burgers, shakes and fried pickles on the cheap; NBeer’s surprising selection of satisfying brews (see page 65); local group SaturGays’ sweet and sexy start to the year. OLDIE BUT GOODIE Blend Coffee We’re Done with: Cute coffee shops have become a staple crop with a heavy focus on brunch dishes, like of Shenzhen’s food and beverage scene, al- eggs benedict (RMB45) or an English break- though the drinks don’t always live up to the fast (RMB48). decor. During our visits, service proved friendly Enter Blend, which proves that coffee and prompt, even during the cafe’s busy afternoon hours. fashion-forward settings without the sticker Coffee experts may be left yearning for shockdrinkers of somecan enjoy stops. flavorful offerings in Yirgacheffe roasts or beloved Blue Mountain Over 40 Edison bulbs suspended from blends, but the rest of us will probably exit - Blend re-energized and happy. cient, glow. Besides a few windowed alcoves, athe narrow ceiling wooden give the staircase space a pretty, gives access if ineffi to a Mon-Fri 8am-6pm, Sat-Sun 9am-6pm; Blend Coffee, more spacious, balcony-type setting. 1/F, East side of Block 213, Chegongmiao, Futian Blend’s brief coffee menu keeps things District福田区车公庙213栋西侧一楼店铺 (2348 2802) The near-silent shutdown of the CBD’s simple while covering the basics. An espres- cave-themed Top Lounge; Bluegogo’s so or Americano costs just RMB18. Lattes, brief comeback sans deposits for non- Chinese citizens; air quality reaching RMB26. Notably, no regular-sized coffee toxic levels in the PRD last month, caus- drinkscappuccinos are over and RMB30. flat whites are priced at ing school closures in close neighbor Other beverages include a variety of teas Canton. at RMB18 a glass, as well as freshly mixed juices in the RMB29-35 range. Non-caffeine

such as a jasmine tea-infused pear drink (RMB22)addicts can that’s also refreshingly sample interesting light on flavors the pal - ate. In addition, Blend offers a food menu

58 | SZ | FEBURARYFEBRUARY 2018 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM [email protected]

KITCHEN CONFIDENTIAL WHAT’S ON WAIMAI

Pizza Monstrosity So Salad Shenzhen-based takeout eatery So Salad is run by a bunch of young This month we talk to folks who want you to become “bet- Matt Slack, proprietor ter and more beautiful” through a of The Pizza Factory, Basic salads, which come with a healthier diet. which just opened its base of lettuce, broccoli, niblets and Organic veggies growing on a second Guangzhou lo- cherry tomatoes, are priced RMB35- Huizhou farm, which, according cation near Beijing Lu. 48, with salmon and chicken breast, salmon and plum, as well as beef European standards, are processed, “One of our major selling and sweet potato making up the top sterilized,to their official hydrated WeChat, and meetschecked for points is that we market of the price range. metallic contamination before they our toppings as ‘unlimit- Patrons are able to compose are delivered to their 12 branch ed.’ For most people that their own salads as well, with op- stores in China, most of them locat- come into the shop, we tions for mains including prawns, ed in Shenzhen and Guangzhou. let them know that four duck breast, beef steak, salmon and At So Salad, dressings, the soul chicken breast, while avocado, kiwi, of salad, are allegedly crafted by a insist on getting the best value. orange, apple, pear and cherry to- Michelin-starred chef together with or five toppings is probably the best mix, but some mato make up the fruit department. a dietitian, and you can choose from “One loyal customer insists on getting 20-plus top- low-calorie Thousand Island, ‘se- pings each time he comes in, and the pizza winds up Price: RMB35-60 cret’ sesame, vinaigrette and grape- really looking more like a salad, or a mountain. Sure, Good for: robust salad, fresh juices fruit honey options. Also on offer we are probably losing money on this pizza every Search: sosalad is a range of freshly prepared, pure time he comes in but, with our slogan being ‘custom Available on: Meituan, Dianping, E juices, at prices averaging about made,’ if this is the way he likes his pizza – this is the Le Ma RMB22. way we’ll make it for him.”

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | JFEBRUARY 2018 | SZ | 59 EAT & DRINK | FEATURE

WHAT’S IN A NAME? Five Oddball Chinese Desserts You Should Try By Bailey Hu

Chinese cuisine may be world-famous, but some dish names just don’t translate well (ants climbing up a tree, anyone?). We’ve gathered ‘Double-skin milk’ ( ) 双皮奶 five desserts that, while in desperate need of This Cantonese steamed dessert tastes kind of like pud- ding. Done right, the texture is creamy, soft and smooth.^ Ingredients are kept simple – milk (traditionally from rebranding, are nevertheless delicious. water buffaloes), egg white and sugar – but the process of cooking, i.e., creating the ‘two skins,’ can be surprisingly tricky. Eat it plain or with toppings like red beans, mango or lotus seeds. ^ ‘Ginger milk curd’ ( ) 姜撞奶 Its name literally translates to ‘ginger hits milk,’ which is a pretty accurate description of how this Cantonese dessert is made. Warm, sweetened milk is poured into a bowl with ginger juice, then covered and left to set for a few minutes. The result is a delicate, milky concoction with a zesty ginger kick. Whatever you do, though, don’t stir – the ultra-soft texture might revert back to liquid form. ^ ‘Eight treasure rice’ ( ) 八宝饭 With ingredients like lard and glutinous rice, plus a fruitcake-like appearance, this dessert can be a little off-putting. But health concerns aside, it's much better than it looks (and sounds). Warm babaofan is sweet, soft, and studded with ‘treasures’: tasty dried fruit and nuts. It’s also sticky and filling, so we recommend going easy on the after-dinner treat.

60 | SZ | FEBRUARY 2018 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM FEATURE | EAT & DRINK ^ ‘Sugar oil cake’ ( ) 糖油粑粑 This Hunanese dessert may not look like much, but it’s a tempting snack when made fresh. The basic recipe is easy: combine glutinous rice flour with water, then pan fry lightly. Add in sugar water to caramelize and you’ll soon have chewy, sweet, golden-brown ‘cakes.’ The simple treat is served at Hunan restaurants and street food stalls, but it’s also a cinch to make at home. ^ ‘Wife cakes’ ( ) 老婆饼 Also known as sweetheart cakes, this Cantonese dessert is made of candied winter melon inside a flaky pastry crust. Origins of the name have been lost to time, though more than one story gives credit to a loving couple. Ironically, since lard is involved in their creation, wife cakes probably aren’t that great for your heart. ^ Bonus: ‘condom ice cream’ ( ) 安全套雪糕 While trawling the Chinese net in search of desserts, we came across this awkwardly-packaged frozen treat that shocked and alarmed parents back in 2009. Despite appearances, the paopao xueni (‘bubble slushie’) dessert was not wrapped inside a condom, and even enjoyed some popularity among schoolkids. Sadly, it seems to have fallen out of production since – proof that the world just wasn’t ready yet.

The Place Tucked discreetly in an unassuming food court at Futian Metro Station, Boneshaker is one of the latest additions to Shenzhen's ever expanding selection of burger joints. With its creative-but-classic menu and affordable prices, this cozy fast-casual eatery may soon

Boneshaker hails from Australia, where thefind original itself leading location the sits pack. in a BMX and skate park, billing itself as an American-style burger eatery. The Shenzhen location, which opened in November 2017, is the restau-

rant’s first in China. The Food Localization is notably absent in Boneshaker’s China menu, which is a pared- down version of its Australia offerings and does not feature any numbing spicy chicken or taro pies. In fact, Boneshaker’s menu may be one of its greatest successes, providing just enough variety while keeping things simple. - room burger (RMB23) among the selections,Vegetarians and adventurous will be happy eaters to find will a be mush drawn It was a tasty, authentic burger and an excel- to the charcoal bun on the Charred Bacon lent value – far superior to a similarly priced Boneburger (RMB33). order from Burger King. We topped our meal For a small additional fee (RMB9-13), off with some well-seasoned popcorn chick- you can add one of their snacks (which en and a creamy caramel milkshake. include chili cheese fries and fried pickles) along with your choice of milkshake. We chose the namesake Boneburger The Vibe (RMB29), a no-frills burger with a reason- - ably sized patty, the usual toppings and ers, high school kids and delivery guys mill a creamy Thousand-Island-esque “secret aroundAt lunchtime, the small a steady dining stream space. of The office real work es- sauce,” all served atop a nicely toasted bun. tate at Boneshaker is limited – two or three tables, some booth seating and a high-top bar – but the space is well designed with a minimalistic vibe. Drop by when you're in the area and shimmy into a bright green booth for a quick, satisfying meal. As a bonus, Boneshaker recently began delivering via Chinese apps Meituan and Ele.me – a dan- gerously delicious proposition.

Price: RMB40 Who’s going: Futian dwellers, frugal food- ies, burger enthusiasts Good for: classic burgers and on-the-go, affordable eats Nearest metro: Futian (Exit 1), 1 minute

Open daily, 10.30am-9pm; No. 13, Food Court A (near Exit 1), Futian Metro Station 福田地铁站一屋时尚美食广场A区13号福田站1号口180米 (181-6675 7332)

62 | SZ | FEBRUARY 2018 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM

EAT & DRINK | NEW RESTAURANT EL TORO Bullish Future By Adam Robbins

The Place beer is still forthcoming, as is There’s a fresh, new feeling to the white- the Barcelona pastry chef that’s washed interior of El Toro, an earnest in negotiations. We look forward echo of the Pueblos Blancos of Andalusia. to savoring the effects of those As one of the very newest restaurants in additions. Nanshan’s Coastal City Mall, they’re still perfecting the look and feel of the place. American R&B pipes through the speak- The Vibe ers; we hope they’ll add more Spanish With the Poly Theatre next door and a cinema within the mall, El Toro will prove an simpleflare in asthe abuela’s future. home, unpretentiously endearing spot for a familiar welcoming.The 100-seat, It serves two-floor “traditional space food is Spanish bite before or after a show. For anyone missing the co-owner Salim Pons tells us. He brings flavor of Andalusia, El Toro will sevenfor normal years people, experience not five-star in nightlife cooking,” and take you home. kitchen prep, though he assures us his wife is really the boss. Price: RMB100-200 Who’s going: Spaniards, Poly Theatre visitors The Food Good for: unpretentious dining, The focus here is pure Spain. Of the ta- paella pas, mejillones picantes (spicy mussels, Nearest metro: Baishizhou (Exit RMB35) are most satisfying, with good A), 5 minutes - food. The salsa is bright but not exactly Open daily, 8am-11.30pm; No. Spanish olive oil beneath clean, firm sea 122/123, East Block, Coastal Building, Haide San Dao, Nanshan District 南山 from a little added salt. 区海德三道海岸大厦东座一楼122-123铺 spicy.Home-cooking Like most other classic dishes, tortilla it benefits es- (133-0231 2550) panola (Spanish omelette, RMB15) is pure Iberian comfort food. It’s simple egg and potato, but too rarely seen here. Galician tuna cake (RMB25) is also tasty

But we heartily recommend the paella.with Beyondrich and the fatty seafood fish in varieties a flakey crust.you’ll paella tierra pollo, conejo y pimientos (RMB158) de- liversfind elsewhere, cubes of chicken Valencia’s and hunks of rab- bit meat along with rice that’s perfectly tender. It takes time under supervision by Spanish-trained chefs, but it’s worth it. The crisp bottom adds texture to balance the softness of the rice, carrot, and deliciously hearty peas. Elsewhere you’d pay twice the price for something half as good. El Toro boasts virgin sangria (RMB15), but the beer (RMB20-25) is limited to Tsingtao, Bud and a light-but- earthy Muchenal. A supplier of Spanish

64 | SZ | FEBRUARY 2018 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM NEW BAR | EAT & DRINK

NBEER PUB Native Suds By Adam Robbins

CT- - for home – only the gose (RMB49 a can) is available now, but it’s an excellent place to beersLoft of visitorsNBeer Pub. find Thea warm area’s wel begin. Ocome in the deliciously refined - We were skeptical of sea salt-infused leries, thanks to co-founder and brand de- sour beer, but it won a gold at the 2017 signeronly brew Xiaobiar. house In fits the well sleek among interior, the galsilver Brussels Beer Challenge and it won us pipes converge into an attractive tree that over. We delighted in the lemon brightness, branches up to the ceiling and out to the like a shandy but with none of the sweet- kegs beyond. On two terraces, there’s room for par- six, RMB88 before 6pm) reveal a consist- ties or some entrees and snacks on your entness. game. Other Award-winning beers in our flight Ligui (RMB118/ Black IPA own – the potato wedges (RMB38) and meat platter (RMB168) are especially good. be the best dark beer we’ve tasted. Sweet But, really, it’s all about the beer: 26 on tap, and(RMB50) sour Raspberryis rich and Beijingerfull-flavored. Weisse It might 14 from NBeer’s Chengdu brewery and the (RMB45) sparkles with fruity notes and a rest from compatriot brewers across 80 tart edge that lets you keep drinking more. cities. Brace yourself for the NBeer & Mica Beijing Homebrew Society founding Wine Barrel Thyme Belgium Strong member Yinhai launched the brand after (RMB59). It’s a potent 9.8% ABV, aged half a year to become a smoky potion, almost brewing challenge. Five years of experi- like a dark amber whiskey. When they start mentationfirst and second has paid place off medals in mature in a brews 2012 canning more brews (as soon as March) and and pubs in Beijing, Zhangzhou and now delivering them to homes (maybe through Shenzhen. You can even grab a case of cans familiar apps), they should pick this one. Chinese brewers can produce some of

with a trip to NBeer Pub, maybe after a showthe very at B10finest or beers. as a destination Enlighten yourselfof its own.

Price: RMB40-65 a beer Who’s going: OCT-Loft adventurers, beer buffs Good for: excellent drafts, artistic environs Nearest metro: Qiaocheng North (Exit B), 11 minutes

Open daily, 11am-1am; 101, Building A2, OCT- Loft, Nanshan District 南山区华侨城创意园北区A2栋 101 (181-2621 1699, 181-2621 1698)

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | JFEBRUARY 2018 | SZ | 65 EAT & DRINK | NEW BAR

DING SKY BAR Shooting for the Stars By Bailey Hu

ooftop bars are tricky. At their best, cal passion fruit mojito (RMB88 plus 10 per- Well seasoned, crispy potato wedges they provide expansive views of cent service charge). The bar swaps out the (RMB48) made in the kitchen downstairs Rglowing cityscapes; at their worst, too traditional soda water for regular H2O, but demonstrate that sometimes it’s better to little cover from the elements. we barely notice the switch: tangy and fruity stick with the classics. They may not always We happen to visit Ding Sky Bar on a with just a hint of rum, the mojito is just as day that’s not only drizzly, but also unusu- refreshing as it should be. shooting for, but they’re at least reliably deli- ally cold (for Shenzhen, at least). The shal- The acid-green color of the Irish cious.fit the upscale aesthetic Ding Sky Bar is low pool on the rooftop – separated from (RMB78) belies a surprisingly sippable the bar’s seating area by a low wall – is whiskey-based blend: mint liqueur gives it Price: RMB78-88 a cocktail half-drained, and the lounge chairs empty. sweetness as well as a slight cooling sensa- Who’s going: Still, it’s hard to deny the potential of this tion. Good for: classic cocktails, scenic views brand-new open-air bar, the grand opening The Hall of Fame (RMB88), one of the Nearest metro: high-flyers, Huaqiangbei aesthetes (Exit D), 5 of which is set for mid-March. Located on top bar’s six signature drinks, is less appetizing. minutes of luxury serviced apartment complex Fraser Although served inside eye-catching goblets Suites in up-and-coming Huaqiangbei, the modeled on ancient Chinese drinking ves- establishment offers an unrestricted look at sels, the cocktail’s bittersweet mix of grape- Open daily, 5.30pm-12am (subject to change); 18/F, Fraser Suites Shenzhen, 183 Zhenhua Lu, Futian Futian District’s ever-changing skyline. fruit syrup, peach liqueur and vodka make it District 福田区振华路183号辉盛阁国际公寓十八楼 As brisk winds blow, we sample a tropi- taste like lemonade gone wrong. (6180 1389)

66 | SZ | FEBRUARY 2018 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM Kris Kross Amsterdam Set D-Stroyer Set HEAR

Huang Mengla’s Homage to Bernstein Concert

The Brazilian beat boy is back, spinning and remixing the anthems that won him a worldwide following. Pushing beyond EDM and his home country’s bass, D-Stroyer lights up the crowd with a hardstyle sound and high-energy antics that has fans cheering for more. Thu Feb 15; Club bbR, 3/F, Bldg A, Poly Shenzhen Symphony Orchestra Culture Square, Haide Er Dao, Coastal celebrates the 100th anniversary City, Nanshan District 南山区海岸城海德 of Leonard Bernstein with violinist 二道保利文化广场A栋3楼 (8631 1999) Huang Mengla, staging ‘Serenade The three-man DJ collective, named in honor of the ’90s rap duo, bring their After Plato’s Symposium’ with Yang Dutch sound to the late night hours of bbR’s Club Night. With an eclectic Yang conducting. The orchestra will mix of R&B, hip hop, trap and house from across the eras, the trio have sold Touring Band: Borderline Gig also perform Brahms’ ‘Symphony out the biggest clubs in Amsterdam. Now they bring their interactive perfor- No. 1 in C Minor.’ mance to our humble city. Fri Feb 2, 8pm; RMB50-680. Shenzhen Fri Feb 9, 1.30am; Club bbR, 3/F, Bldg A, Poly Culture Square, Haide Er Dao, Coastal City, Concert Hall, 2016 Fuzhong Yi Lu, Futian Nanshan District 南山区海岸城海德二道保利文化广场A栋3楼 (8631 1999) District 福田区福中一路2016号深圳音乐厅 (8284 1888, shenzhenconcerthall. com) National Symphony Orchestra of Ukraine: Laputa-Castle in the Sky Concert Jacques Greene Set Borderline is an eclectic rock band formed in 2013 in Lausanne, Switzerland. The band consists of a singer (blues, soul), a bass player, a guitarist and a drummer. The acous- tic album Across the Rainbow was released in May 2017. Head up to the Mission Hills section of Longhua New District to catch them on their global tour to promote the album. Tue Feb 20, 8-10pm. Hard Rock Cafe Shenzhen, 9 Guanlan Gaoerfu Dadao, Longhua New District 龙华新区观澜高尔夫大道9号深圳硬石咖啡 (3395 2888)

Quebec’s 24-year-old EDM producer cultivates a bit of mystery about Shenzhen Symphony Orchestra: himself, even as he rises up to work Lantern Festival Concert alongside Azealia Banks and play festivals like MUTEK Sonar and Bloc Weekender. Raised on R&B but now embracing world house and melodic techno, the inventive M. One of the finest symphony orchestras in Eastern Europe delights with this Greene visits Shenzhen as part of multimedia concert featuring songs from Studio Ghibli animated classics – his six-nation winter tour. including the eponymous Laputa: Castle in the Sky, as well as Kiki's Delivery Sat Feb 3, 10pm; RMB60 presale, RMB80 Service, My Neighbour Totoro, Princess Mononoke and the Oscar-winning door. Oil Club, Shop L1-11A G/F, Tairan Spirited Away. Fans and families won’t want to miss this entertaining night Building, Tairan Ba Lu, Futian District 福 with some of our favorite characters. 田区泰然八路泰然大厦01层L1-11A (158- Fri Feb 9, 8pm; RMB180-680. Shenzhen Children’s Palace, 2002 Fuzhong Yi Lu, Futian 1747 9767) District 福田区福中一路2002号深圳少年宫 (8351 3099, 247tickets.com) Lantern Festival, the last day of the Chinese New Year celebration, is traditionally a time of reunion. Mark the start of a new lunar year with a concert you can enjoy with the whole family. Liu Sha conducts. Fri Mar 2, 8pm; RMB50-880. Shenzhen Concert Hall, 2016 Fuzhong Yi Lu, Futian District 福田区福中一路2016号深圳音乐厅 (8284 1888, shenzhenconcerthall. com)

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | FEBRUARY 2018 | SZ | 67 AVATAR: Discover Pandora Exhibit Hapkido Seminar Martial Arts DO

SIS 2nd Annual Discover China Family Day

The Hapkido Association of China hosts Great Grand Master Choi, 9th Degree Black Belt with the International Hapkido Federation and 8th Degree Black Belt in the Sword Art of Korean Gumdo. This is a class for both beginners as well as advanced students in Hapkido. Taekwondo Shekou International School invites students, as well as other martial arts Shenzhen families to join in the fun player, are welcome. of their second annual day of cultural Sat Feb 10-Sun Feb 11, 10am. Wutong discovery. Learn about Chinese cul- Mountain, Wangtong Lu, Luohu District ture and feast on Chinese delicacies 罗湖区望桐路 ([email protected]) while enjoying games and perfor- From James Cameron’s groundbreaking film comes an experience for the entire mances on a special day honoring family based on some of the most astounding and fascinating aspects of the our host country. Admission is free alien moon Pandora. Experience unique discoveries in this 12,000-square-foot Hangzhou Holiday Tour and all are welcome. entertainment and educational experience and gain thought-provoking in- Sat Feb 3, 12-3pm. Shekou International sights into the many ways in which Pandora reflects our own planet. School, Jing Shan Villas, Nanhai Blvd, Ongoing, 10am; RMB250-299, RMB588 VIP. 1/F, Great China International Exchange Nanshan District 南山区蛇口工业二路鲸 Square, 1 Fuqua Yi Lu, Futian District 福田区福华一路1号大中华国际交易广场一楼山别墅内 (2669 3369) (247tickets. com)

Operation Dorothy: The Eating Design Exhibit Electric Fabulous Drinking Race Pub Crawl Enjoy Chinese New Year among the plum blossoms and green tea leaves of Hangzhou, with a friendly guide from China Tea Leaves. Once you’re in the city, they’ll take care of all the details of your tour, with flexibility around arrival/departure and hotel stays. Just hurry to book your flight or train, or ask their expert for assistance. Fri Feb 16-Wed Feb 21; RMB4,980-5,980 (includes five-night hotel stay, meals, insurance, local transport, entrance tickets and guide). China Tea Leaves (chi- [email protected]) Bionic Brew organizes a poker run to put your beer-drinking skills to the test, in a fun and slightly competitive Singles Party Party event for charity. Down seven brews in seven bars, ending at Magma/ Dolores Park, with three grand prizes and specials for all participants. A portion of proceeds will be donated to a local charity. Follow on WeChat (ID ‘百优精酿 BionicBrew’) for more details. Savor a visit to Marije Vogelzang’s first solo exhibition in China as she explores Sat Feb 3, 5pm; RMB200 (pre- the power of food to shape every aspect of our existence. “Food will enter our sale) RMB225 (door). Bionic Brew, stomachs,” she explains, “but it will also activate our brains and evoke intense A-1F02/03, Shangye Buxing Jie, by memories and emotions.” In 14 videos, design works, and interactive installa- Shahe Jie, Baishizhou, Nanshan tions (like a ‘Pasta Sauna’), she invites you to stimulate your senses and arouse District 南山区白石洲沙河街商业步行街 a new awareness of how deeply food penetrates our lives. During this time of romance, Crafty A-1F02/03 (186-6587 4574) Tue-Sun through Mar 4, 10am-5.30pm. OCT Art & Design Gallery, 9009 Shennan Dadao, Events is putting together a world of Overseas Chinese Town, Nanshan District 南山区华侨城深南大道9009-1号 (www.oct- entertainment for singles in Shenzhen. and.com) You don’t need to be unattached to attend, but guests will assume you are and might cover you in romantic sticky notes or ‘peg’ you while enjoying Love Potion cocktails. Blind date games and best dressed competitions let everyone have a bit of fun and revel in their un- committed status. Sat Feb 10, 8pm-1am; Coka Family, No. 116, C Zone, Seaworld, Nanshan District 南山区蛇口望海路海上世界C区116店 (try- clearcut.com/event/yrTHPzF4)

68 | SZ | FEBRUARY 2018 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM It From Bit Exhibit SEE TASTE

Cherry Blossom Afternoon Tea The Wisdom of Achieving Inner Peace Exhibit

Find your inner calm as you con- The second exhibition featured in the art center’s Extra Time space gives In celebration of Chinese New Year, template more than 100 ancient Colombian artist Fito Segrera room to explore the nature of our reality. Shenzhen Marriott Hotel Golden Bay Guanyin statues and paintings, on Contemplating the possibility that the world we know is an illusory men- presents a variety of Teochew festive loan from Beijing’s Capital Museum. tal construct, Segrera builds on the concepts of physicist John Archibald feasts, Cherry Blossom Afternoon Perched on her lotus and wearing Wheeler to envision the world as a dialogue between ‘bits’ of quantized Tea and traditional Chinese New Year flowing robes, the Buddhist bo- information and the atoms that compose our bodies and every ‘it’ we goodies. This premium Cantonese dhisattva of compassion beams with see. cuisine, popular for its delicate a serenity that has endured through Daily through Sun Mar 4, 10am-10pm. Sea World Culture and Arts Center, 1187 Wanghai seafood and vegetarian dishes, is of- the ages. Visit for a peek at early Lu, Shekou, Nanshan District 南山区蛇口望海路1187号 (2162 5455, designsociety.cn) fered as two sets of Reunion Dinner porcelain of the Song and Yuan menus prepared by Chef Guo, a na- dynasties, tracing the connections tive of Teochew. Enjoy a dinner for from the icon’s journey through 8-12 people, or visit for an afternoon India and Nepal. The Ecstasy of Time Exhibition tea of rose and cherry blossom Tue-Sun through Feb 28, 10am- cheesecake, cherry blossom cream 6pm. Shenzhen Museum, Section A, tart and a blossom-inspired concoc- Shenzhen Citizen Center, 3 Fuzhong tion of tea and peach syrup. San Lu, Futian District 福田区福中3路深 Daily through Thu Mar 1, RMB298 (tea 圳市民中心A区 (8201 3036, shenzhen- set; all prices add 15 percent service museum.com.cn) charge) RMB7,880 (dinner for 8-10) RMB9,880 (dinner for 10-12). Shenzhen Marriott Hotel Golden Bay, 33 Zonglv Facing the Ocean Exhibit Dadao, Dapeng New District 大鹏新区棕榈大道 33号 (2839 8888)

New Years Dinner Set Menu

In the first floor Extra Time space within the new Sea World Culture and Arts Center, seven artists tell their stories of the sea. Wide screens With the New Year around the cor- This collection of visual art – carefully curated by Hu Bin, a professor at the depict the mysteries of a constantly ner, now is the time for companies Guangzhou Academy of Fine Arts, and Yu Yuan, an independent curator – changing vastness that hides innu- to gather their hardworking teams brings together the ruminations of 11 young artists on the relationship be- merable wonders within its depths. to celebrate the achievements of tween time, technology and art. They lean on Martin Heidegger’s concept of Daily through Sun Mar 4, 10am-10pm. the past year. Marco Polo Shenzhen ecstasy as a moment encompassing the future, past and present, attempting Sea World Culture and Arts Center, 1187 is prepared to offer both luxury and to witness our hypermodern world from revolutionary perspectives. Wanghai Lu, Shekou, Nanshan District helpful discounts when planning Tue-Sun through Sat Mar 31, 10am-5.30pm. He Xiangning Art Museum, 9013 Shennan 南山区蛇口望海路1187号 (2162 5455, festivities to reward staff and man- Da Dao, Nanshan District 南山区深南大道9013号 (2660 4540) designsociety.cn) agement for a successful 2017. Daily through Wed Feb 28. Marco Polo Shenzhen, 28 Fuhua Yi Lu (by Mingtian Lu), Futian District 福田区福华一路28号 (8298 9888)

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | FEBRUARY 2018 | SZ | 69 HOTEL NEWS KEMPINSKI HOTEL Welcomes Your New Year Celebrations The fireworks have all been fired and we have our hongbao ready to hand out to our those close to us. But at the Kempinski Hotel Shenzhen, there’s still time left for a fabulous year-end party and New Year gathering. Book your table for 30 before the end of March 2018 and enjoy a host of great benefits for you and your guests. Free flow soft drinks complement the delicious meal and Kempinski Hotel Shenzhen waives the corkage fee for wines you bring with you. You can project the year-in-review highlights on their high-res LED screen at no cost, and enjoy exclusive use of two function rooms for primp- ing, prepping and giving VIPs the treatment they deserve. Best of all, one person can enjoy a night at the hotel in a Deluxe Room, with two buffet breakfasts and three buffet dinner vouchers provided. To enjoy this great deal, make your reservations at 755-8888 8888.

THE RITZ-CARLTON, SHENZHEN Hosts a Feast of Artistic Delights Experience a different side of the “Silicon Valley of China” as The Ritz-Carlton, Shenzhen offers a glimpse of art and culture. Partnering with We-Gallery, The Ritz-Carlton, Shenzhen presents a series of art exhibitions in house through March 31 with paintings, sculpture and more on the list from noteworthy artists around the world. You can return home with an elevated sense of culture, as all displayed items will be available for sale. While visiting The Ritz-Carlton, Shenzhen, be sure to stop in Paletto Italian Restaurant where the chef de cuisine has crafted a special menu inspired by the works on display. Delight your palate with a unique gourmet journey that you won’t want to miss.

70 | SZ | FEBRUARY 2018 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM HONG KONG & MACAU CALENDAR

HK MO FEB 10 In 2014, Ana Aragão was selected FEB 9-11 The short stories of Vasily Shukshin among the 200 best illustrators FRI-SUN – a household name in the Soviet SAT in the world by the renowned Union of the 1960s and early 1970s Lürzer’s Archive magazine. Her solo – are brought to life by an award- exhibition Imaginary Beings show- winning cast of Russian actors. cases a collection of watercolor Witness these eccentric Siberian and black-ink pen artworks which lives, hopelessly out of touch and blend architecture with illustration out of time, struggling with the to create dreamy buildings. gap between their dreams and their reality. In Russian with English and Chinese subtitles. FEB 23 THROUGH FEB 25 Rock Concert, 8pm; MOP430. Macau FRI TUE-SUN Convention Centre (www.macauticket.com) Longines Masters, 8am-7pm; Five leading Hong Kong rock bands HKD230-3,200. AsiaWorld-Expo are set to cross the Pearl River estu- (www.longinesmasters.com) ary this month to rattle ‘n’ shake One of the most prestigious eques- the city of Macau. Kolor, Yellow! 野 trian events in the world arrives in 佬, ToNick, RubberBand and Supper Hong Kong, between its stops in Moment will perform a selection of New York and Paris. The sixth edi- their most popular songs, in what tion of the ‘Grand Slam of Indoor is bound to be a rockin’ and rollin’ Show Jumping’ brings together de- evening! Dance on the Strings, 8pm; cision-makers, VIPs and the world’s MOP60/80. Dom Pedro V Theatre 30 best riders for a heart-pounding (www.icm.gov.mo) competition. Enjoy world-class The show Dance on the Strings The Great Circus of Europe, entertainment amid outstanding FEB 17-18 sweeps audiences off their feet 2.30pm, 4.30pm, 6.30pm & 8.30pm; fashion, art and gastronomy, with SAT-SUN with skillful erhu (Chinese two- HKD150-400. Central Harbourfront glittering after-parties running late stringed fiddle) performances. The Event Space (www.tgec.asia/circus) into the night. award-winning pieces presented in Witness a heart-pounding thrill the concert demonstrate a creative show the whole family can en- style that combines tradition and joy, featuring zero animals and modernity and blends Chinese and FROM FEB 23 over 25 experienced performers Western music. DAILY from around the world including England, Colombia, Kenya, Mexico, and Morocco. Marvel at death- defying feats performed in front of FEB 25 your eyes without the aid of video The Procession of Passion of Our SUN effects or film trickery. Lord. St. Augustine’s Church (www. Brushing Up Macau, 3.30pm; macaotourism.gov.mo) MOP150. Macau Cultural Centre MAR 2-4 The Procession of Passion of Our (www.macauticket.com) FRI-SUN Lord is a unique religious cel- This multimedia dance performance ebration in Macau. An image of is a fusion of dance, music, calligra- Christ carrying the cross is taken phy and AR/VR elements. A novel Hong Kong Arts Festival. Various lo- in solemn procession from St. experience, Brushing Up Macau cations (www.hk.artsfestival.org) Augustine’s Church to the Cathedral transforms colors, lines and shapes An international array of acclaimed of Macau for an overnight vigil into a mass of illusions, which is theater, dance, live music, opera, and then returned through the presented alongside a dance perfor- circus and more fill the city with city via the stations of the cross, mance that blends classical dance creativity until March 24. There’s accompanied by a magenta-robed art with modern technology. far too much to mention here; escort and crowds of the faithful check out the complete schedule and curious. online. UNTIL FEB 25 TUE-SUN FEB 24-25 Cantonese Opera: Pavilion of a UNTIL FEB 21 The Memorable Time – The SAT-SUN Hundred Flowers, 8pm; HKD200- TUE-SUN Traditional Handicraft Industries 360. The Hong Kong Academy For of Macau, 10am-6pm; free. Macau Performing Arts (2824 2430) Museum (www.macaumuseum. More than just a restaging of the gov.mo) popular 1958 opera about spies The exhibition The Memorable and rebels, director Fredric Mao’s Time – The Traditional Handicraft 2018 project takes a fresh ap- Industries of Macau allows audi- proach to stage design, lighting, ences to get a glimpse into the music and costume. With young evolution of the city’s industries, playwright Kong Chun-Kit rework- such as incense, firecrackers and ing the script to add modern match manufacturing, which pros- Theatre of Nations: Shukshin's perspectives to the classic, the new pered in the 1950s and ’60s, as well Stories, 2.30pm, 7pm; HKD200- production welcomes new audi- as the local lifestyle of the past. 480.The Hong Kong Academy For ences to Cantonese opera with a Imaginary Beings, noon-8pm; free. Workshops will also be held along- Performing Arts (2824 2430) work adapted to our times. Taipa Village Art Space (taipavil- side the exhibition. lagemacau.org.mo)

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | FEBRUARY 2018 | SZ | 71 OPEN DOOR

THE LANGHAM, SHENZHEN Rolls Out “The Langham Baby Programme” The Langham Hospitality Group extends their 150-year tradition of luxurious European hospitality not only to adults, but also to your ‘little VIPs.’ As part of its ongoing ‘The Langham Baby Programme,’ the hotel’s family package provides for children of all different ages. Whether your stay requires cribs and baby toiletries, or children's bathrobes and slippers, the hotel is prepared to make this the perfect holiday. Reserve an Executive Room or above and rest assured in the knowledge that every room is equipped with safety features like protective plugs and corner bumpers to keep your little one safe. Toys, books and a kid-sized easel ensure it’s an enjoyable holiday time for the whole family. Book your package now and enjoy two adult and children’s breakfasts, with lunch at Silk offered for half price for children aged 6-12, or for free for younger children. 7888 Shennan Dadao, by Nongyuan Lu, Futian District 福田区深南大道7888号 (8828 9888)

SAFFRON INDIAN RESTAURANT AND BAR WESTWOOD FIRE & SMOKE Presents Legendary Chicken Tikka Offer Up Signature USDA Prime Rib Chicken tikka is a chicken dish originating in the Punjab region of North India, though it is popular throughout India and anywhere you can find lovers of Indian food. It is traditionally small pieces of boneless chicken baked using skewers on a special brazier called a tandoor, after marinating in spices and yogurt. Essentially it is a boneless version of tandoori chicken. The word ‘tikka’ means ‘bits’ or ‘pieces.’ The pieces are intermittently brushed with the chef’s oil of choice to increase its flavor, while continuously fanned as part of the cooking process. It is typically eaten with green coriander and tamarind chutney, alongside onion rings and lemon. Floor B1, Jinhu Hotel, 1005 Wenjin Lu, Luohu District罗湖区文锦中路1005号锦湖宾馆地下一层 (8219 1115)

If you have a hunger for a USDA prime rib, you’re in luck. Westwood Fire & Smoke is offering up hand-carved selections: their signature marbled beef, slow-roasted to perfection at low temperatures for maximum enjoyment. Each cut – 8 oz (RMB388), 16 oz (RMB688) or the 32 oz ‘King’ (RMB988) – is served with your choice of rustic mashed potatoes, baked potato or French fries, au jus and freshly made creamy horseradish. But don’t delay: these fine cuts of meat are likely to sell out every night, so try to get there just after dinner opens at 6pm. Shop NL119, Block 2, Nanshan Mix City, Shennan Road, Nanshan District 深南大道9668号华润万象天地NL119铺2栋 (8668 7399)

72 | SZ | FEBRUARY 2018 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM URBAN MOMENTS

THE LANGHAM, SHENZHEN Do you have party pictures to contribute? Send them to us at [email protected] and we’ll run the best. Rolls Out “The Langham Baby Programme”

Michelin Dinner Review @ Shark Shopping Park Futian, Jan 9th

New Year’s Eve Party @ Dazzle Club, Dec 31st THE BOX Grand Opening, Jan 18th

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | FEBRUARY 2018 | SZ | 73 FEATURED LISTINGS

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福田区深南大道1003号大中华国际金融中心B座 Futian District, Shenzhen （0755-86913388） Chinese Scholars Venture Building, southern JW Marriott Shenzhen No.6005 Shennan section of High-Tech Industrial Park, Nan- EDUCATION shan District (Tel: 2658 8350). Dadao, Futian District. (2269 8888) 深圳市南山区 American International School, No. 福田区深南大道 6005 号高新科技园南区留学生创业大厦3楼314室 82,Gongyuan Lu, Shekou,Nanshan District Morefoods No1,1F,Building A ,OCEAN (8619 4750) JW Marriott Shenzhen Bao’an 8 Baoxing Lu, 南山区蛇口公园路82号青少年活动中心 Baoan District (2323 8888) city Garden,Shekou New Street, Nanshan 深圳前海华侨城 JW 万豪酒店 , 宝安区宝兴路 8 号 BUSINESS District,shenzhen (0755-8827 9078) 深圳市 Green Oasis School 南山区蛇口新街澳城花园A栋一楼1号铺 No 4030, Shennan Middle Road, Tianmian, Marco Polo Shenzhen Fuhua Yi Lu, Regus Serviced Office 雷格斯服务式办公室 Futian District. (8399 6712) admission@ CBD, Futian District (8298 9888). www. • Flexible office leases from 1 day to 1 year greenoasis.org.cn www.greenoasis.org.cn cn.marcopolohotels.com 福田中心区福华一路 • Quick and easy to set up for 1-200 people 福田区田面村深南中路 4030 号 • Prices from RMB180 per month Shangri-La Hotel East of the Luohu Train • Find more on Regus.cn SERVICED International School of Nanshan Shenzhen Station, Jianshe Lu, Luohu District (8233 • Tel: 400 120 1207 A Canadian school accepting application 0888). www.shangri-la.com 1) Futian Anlian, 26/F, Anlian Centre- for Pre-Grade 1 through Grade 12. 11 罗湖区建设路火车站东侧 No.4018 Jintian Road, Futian District; 2) Longyuan Lu, Taiyuan Sub-District, Nanshan A8 Building, 15/F, A8 Building, No.1002 RESIDENCE District (2666 1000, 2606 6968). admis- Sheraton Dameisha Resort 9 Yankui Lu, Keyuan Road Tech Zone, Nanshan District; [email protected] www.isnsz.com Dameisha, Yantian District (8888 6688) 3) Futian NEO, 44/F, NEO Tower A, No.6011 南山区龙源路11号盐田大梅沙盐葵路 ( 大梅沙段 )9 号 Shennan Avenue Futian District; 4) SCC, Savills Residence Daxin Shenzhen Bay 7/F, Tower A, SCC Financial Centre, Junction 1168 Houhaibin Road, Nanshan District, Peninsula Montessori Kindergarten the of Houhai Avenue & First Haide Avenue Nan- Shenzhen (2685 6688) 南山区后海滨路1168 St. Regis Shenzhen No.5016 Shennan Peninsula one, Jin Shiji Lu, Shekou Nan- Dong Lu, Luohu District.(8308 8888) shan District; 5) New World Centre, 23/F, 号 www.savillsresidence.com shan District ( 2685 1266) 深圳瑞吉酒店罗湖区深南东路 5016 号 New World Centre, No.6009 Yitian Road 半岛城邦国际幼儿园南山区蛇口东角头金世纪路1 Futian District; 6) Times Financial Centre, Somerset Grandview Shenzhen No.5 Xin- 号半岛城邦一期 14/F Times Financial Centre, No. 4001 sha Road, Futian District, Shenzhen (400 820 The Langham, Shenzhen, No. 7888, Shen- 1028) nan Dadao, Futian District (8828 9888). Shennan Avenue Futian District; 7) New 福田区新沙路5号 www.ascottchina.com Quality Schools International 深圳朗廷酒店，福田区深南大道 7888 号 Times Plaza, 3/F, New Times Plaza,No.1 2/F Bitao Center, 8 Taizi Lu, Taizi Road Shekou District; 8) Panglin Plaza, Shekou,Nanshan District (2667 6031). The Ritz-Carlton, Shenzhen 116 Fuhua San 35/F, Panglin Plaza, No.2002 Jiabin Road www.shk.qsi.org Lu, Futian District (2222 2222) Luohu District; 1)深圳安联中心, 深圳市福田区南山区蛇口太子路 8 号碧涛中心 2 楼福田区福华三路 116 号金田路4018号安联大厦26层; 2) 深圳A8大厦,深圳 FOOD & DRINK 市南山区科技园科园路1002号A8大厦15层; 3)深 QSI International School of Shenzhen The Venice Raytour Hotel Shenzhen 圳NEO大厦, 深圳市福田区深南大道6011号NEO (Futian) A1, TCL Science Park, No. 1001 No.9026, Shennan Dadao, Overseas Chi- 企业大道A座44层; 4) 深圳中洲控股金融中心, 深圳 Zhongshan Yuan, Nanshan District (8371 nese Town, Nanshan District (2693 6888) 市南山区后海大道与海德一道交汇处中洲控股金融 7108) 中山园路1001号TCL 科学园区A1栋深圳威尼斯睿途酒店南山区华侨城深南大道 9026 号中心A座7层; 5) 深圳新世界中心, 深圳市福田区益田路6009号新世界中心23层; 6) 深圳时代金融中 Shekou International School The Westin Shenzhen 9028-2 Shennan 心, 深圳市福田区深南大道4001号时代金融中心14 Jingshan Villas, Gongye Er Lu, Shekou, Nan- Dadao, Nanshan District (2698 8888) 层; 7) 深圳时代广场, 深圳市蛇口区太子路1号新时 shan District (2669 3669). www.sis.org.cn www.westin.com/shenzhen 南山区深南大道代广场3层; 8) 深圳彭年广场, 深圳市罗湖区嘉宾路南山区蛇口工业二路鲸山别墅内 9028号-2 2002号彭年广场

Shen Wai International School 29 Baishi China-Italy Chamber of Commerce San Lu, Nanshan (8654 1200, www.swis.cn) Rm220, 2/F, International Chamber Of 深圳外国语学校国际部南山区白石三道 29 号 Commerce, Fuhua San Lu, Futian District HEALTH (Tel: 8632 9518; Fax: 8632 9528). www. cameraitacina.com ` HarMoniCare Women & Children's Hospital 福田区福华三路国际商会中心 2 楼 220 室 12018 Shennan Dadao, by Nanshan Dadao (3339 1333) 深圳和美妇儿科医院南山区深南大 European Union Chamber of Commerce HOTEL 道12018号 Rm 308, 3/F Overseas Chinese Scholars Venture Building, southern section of High- Futian Shangri-La Hotel Shenzhen No.4088 Vista-SK International Medical Center Lvl Tech Industrial Park, Nanshan District (Tel: Yitian Lu, Futian District (8828 4088). 8635 0920; fax: 8632 9785). 福田区益田路 4088 号福田香格里拉大酒店 4, Bldg 4C, Shenzhen Software Industry Base,Xuefu Lu, Nanshan District (3689 南山高新科技园南区留学生创业大厦 3 楼 308 室 The George & Dragon The quintessential 9833) 南山区学府路软件产业基地4栋C座裙楼4层 British pub; good draft beers, ales, stout, Four Seasons Hotel Shenzhen 138 Fuhua French Chamber of Commerce in South cider, hearty pub food with BBQ's, screening San Lu, Futian District (8826 8888) China (CCIFC) Room 318, 3/F Chinese non-stop sports, secluded beer garden. Your 深圳市福田区福华三路 138 号 C-MER (Shenzhen) Dennis Lam Eye Hospital 1-2/F, Shengtang Bldg, 1 Tairan Jiu Overseas Scholars Venture Building,South home away from home. www.george-dragon. Lu, Chegongmiao, Futian District (4001 666 section of Hi-tech Industry Park, Nanshan com. Email: [email protected] Grand Hyatt Shenzhen No.1881 Baoan Nan District (Tel: 8632 9602; fax: 8632 9736) 3 Taizi Lu, by Minghua Lu, Nanshan District Lu, Luohu District (8266 1234) www.shen- 120, 3322 7188) 福田区车公庙泰然九路一号盛唐大厦1-2层 www.ccifc.org 南山区科技园南区留学生创业大 (Tel: 2669 8564). 南山区太子路3号太子宾馆1 zhen.grand.hyatt.com 罗湖区宝安南路1881号厦3楼318室楼后排3号商铺

Hardrock Hotel Shenzhen， Hard Rock German Chamber of Commerce La Maison is a genuine French restaurant in Cafe Shenzhen，No.9 Misson Hills IMC(International Medical Center) serves the local community and expatriates 217 Chinese Overseas Scholars Venture Shekou. It has a casual but elegant family Road,Shenzhen，0755-3395 2888 深圳硬石 Building, Hi-Tech Industrial Park, Nanshan style ambiance. We serve authentic home 酒店深圳观澜高尔夫大道9号 from all over the world. We are proud to provide private, personalized healthcare for District. (8635 0487) www.china.ahk.de made French cuisine which we'll help you each patient. Our experienced staff from 南山区高新科技园南区留学生创业大厦 217 to pair with a selection of wines, beers & Hilton Shenzhen Shekou Nanhai 1177, spirits. Come on in and enjoy whether you Wanghai Lu, Nanshan District Hong Kong, Mainland China and overseas provide comprehensive medical services The American Chamber of Commerce in are a gourmet or total new to French food. 深圳蛇口希尔顿南海酒店南山区望海路 1177 号 South China (2162 8888) including general and specialty outpatient Rm 208, 2/F Overseas Chinese Address： Shop 108, Nanhai Rose Garden, 91 services, health assessments, inpatient Scholars Venture Building, southern section Wanghai Lu, by Fuwan Lu 南山区望海路91号南海 of High-Tech Industrial Park, Nanshan Dis- Hilton Shenzhen Futian Town B, Great China services and more. Scan QR Code above for more info of IMC. 深圳市福田区海园一路， trict (Tel: 0755-2658 8342; fax: 0755-2658 MAN HO Restaurant-introduces Special International Finance Centre, 1003 Shennan 8341). www.amcham-southchina.org Cantonese Dish Shenzhen Marriott Hotel Dadao, Futian District (2130 8888) 香港大学深圳医院国际医疗中心 International Medical Centre，The University of Hong Kong Golden Bay,33 zonglu Dadao,Dapeng Dis- 深圳佳兆业万豪酒店大鹏新区 - Shenzhen Hospital, 1, Haiyuan 1st Road, The British Chamber of Commerce, Shen- trict 2839 8888 zhen Sub-Chamber Rm 314, 3/F Overseas 棕榈大道 33 号玫瑰花园 108 号（ 2685 7030）

74 | SZ | FEBRUARY 2018 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM CLASSIFIEDS JOBS OFFERED

Shenzhen Longrun Investment Co., Ltd, a fast-growing restaurant enterprise is looking for two foreign hostesses to join the team to greet and show hospitality to guests on behalf of the company. Requirements 1. Ability to understand and speak basic Chinese. 2. A minimum height of 168cm. 3. A passion for communications, with a presentable image. Monthly payments ranges from RMB 12,000 to 15,000 The options of full-time (RMB12,000 to 15,000 per month) or part-time (RMB70-90 per hour) employment are available. For inquiries and application, please contact Ms. Hu at 13631593166 or 075522909515. Mobile Game company business development position. A NASDAQ listed Shenzhen based mobile game company iDreamSky is looking for an expat for one business development position, native English speaker and fluent in Mandarin a must, well versed with mobile games or business negotiation experience a plus. Responsible for looking for Western games suitable for the Chinese market and contacting the game developers. Our office is located in NanShan district, Shenzhen. If interested, please send resume to Evan at email: [email protected]

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WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | FEBRUARY 2018 | SZ | 75 CNY EDITION That’s Shenzhen Horoscopes Finally, a horoscope that understands your life in Shenzhen. BY DOMINIQUE WONG

Aquarius Pisces Aries Taurus 1.21~2.19 2.20~3.20 3.21~4.20 4.21~5.21

You may regret agreeing to be Do what you always do: swim Don’t be surprised if the lunar When your Chinese girlfriend’s a bridesmaid at your friend’s deep, but not too deep, or else New Year has got you second- dad keeps refilling your baijiu wedding after you discover that you will get dysentery and maybe guessing yourself. Should you glass during CNY, don’t try she just wants to set you up with die. Honey Lake is still gross and stay in Shenzhen? Adopt a dog or and be a hero: Just say no. You the best man. Give it a chance – your health insurance doesn't a cat? Relax; just remember that may lose face but you will keep he’s also into Chinese rockers P.K. cover stupidity. Check out your nothing you do really matters in your liver. Double the hongbao 14. local pool instead. the end. Happy New Year! amount you planned to give.

Gemini Cancer Leo Virgo 5.22~6.21 6.22~7.22 7.23~8.23 8.24~9.23

You’re feeling a little anti-social Chinese New Year is all about Turn that self-loathing into self- Become addicted to watching and moody this month. Change family. Sadly, yours live on the love. Start taking yoga classes Chinese beauty vloggers but your WeChat handle to your opposite side of the world and but drop out after you realize the refrain from buying anything they name and ‘ – away until forever,’ don’t celebrate the holiday, teacher only speaks Chinese. promote. You’re too smart for and spend every evening guiltily anyway. Shame. Hang around Buy a gratitude journal. Throw it that. Wear active wear every day binge-watching whatever TV your neighbor’s apartment until out after you’re repeatedly at a but never go for a run or step foot program Angelababy is starring they invite you to join in their loss for what to write. in a gym. in on Bilibili. festivities.

Libra Scorpio Sagittarius Capricorn 9.24~10.23 10.24~11.22 11.23~12.21 12.22~1.20

Don’t worry if you find yourself Your roommates are annoying Where you at this month, crazy This month is just like Forrest feeling off-balance. It’s to do with but leaving aggressive notes on Sag? Someone is looking for you. Gump’s mom always said: Life the Lunar New Year, or scales, or their dirty dishes and throwing That someone may or may not be is like a box of chocolates; you something. Hit up Coco Park, or loud parties isn’t the answer. your landlord, to whom you owe never know what you’re going B10 Live, depending on what kind Neither is advertising for new two months of back rent. Get your to get. You know better, though of Libra you are, and you’ll be in roommates in all your WeChat sh*t together. – that movie was problematic equilibrium in no time. groups. Or selling their crap. Bad AF and robbed The Shawshank Scorpio. Redemption of Best Picture.

76 ||SZ NOVEMBER | FEBRUARY 2017 2018 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM