YOUR WEEKNIGHT DINNER GAME PLAN

GIVE BACK, 70 AMAZING WAYS TO with TOMS founder Blake Mycoskie JUMP-START YOUR LIFE VOLUNTEER ON VACATION BECOME A WINEMAKER MOVE TO THE DESERT

IDEAS FOR A SMALL-SPACE REFRESH!

JANUARY 2017 ADVERTISEMENT adventure It’s true: San Diego’s beaches are amazing. But a family vacation here is so much more than the coast. COMES IN Our world-class attractions are brimming with awesomeness. Our museums feel like gateways to other worlds. And yes, you’ll fi nd a whole lot of sun-soaked exploration. FAMILY SIZE

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THE JOY OF INSPIRATION is found along the coast. Hike along Peñasquitos Creek in San Diego’s North Enter another world—actually, a lot Inland region, through oak woodlands and of other worlds—as you explore these towering boulders, to the gorgeous falls Balboa Park museums. From life-size that run year-round. dinosaurs to exotic art, this is the fun side Guided Kayak Tour on Mission Bay: of learning. Beginners and experts alike can splash Fleet Science Center: Everything around on the water and explore the bay from microscopic cells to the infi nite in easy-to-use kayaks. Check out the universe becomes an interactive learning Family Sunset Paddle with Mission Bay experience. Be sure to catch an IMAX Aquatic Center! show on the 76-foot wraparound Heikoff Giant Dome Theater, too.

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When it comes to the moments we remember, how many take place in your living room? If you’re still trying to recall, perhaps it’s time to reacquaint yourself with a world beyond Wi-Fi, where the stunning beauty of a vista in front of you is not virtual reality but reality reality. The Golf Alltrack comes with 4MOTION all-wheel drive, Off-Road Mode, and enough turbocharged power to motivate you off the couch. Because happiness favors the spontaneous.

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48 “There’s nowhere else in Seattle THE TRIP we could pay what we do Finding center and getting lost in the and have that kind of view.” still-wild West of Cali- TINY HOME, BIG DREAMS, p. 70 fornia’s Joshua Tree. By Mickey Rapkin 60 GAME PLAN: A WEEK OF MEALS These flavorful, make- ahead, mix-and-match vegetarian recipes are your path to healthy- eating success. By Charity Ferreira 70 TINY HOME, BIG DREAMS One Seattle couple shrugs off traditional homeownership for a 200-square- foot Airstream. By Jess Chamberlain

Minimalist living goes mobile: When settled at an RV park like this one near Seattle, an Airstream can double as a streamlined home (see page 70).

Photograph by THOMAS J. STORY EXPERIENCE the WEST January

8 THIS MONTH’S OO RECIPES

SOST APPETIZER Sumac Hummus GF/LC/LS/VG ...... 62

MAINS Braised Short Ribs with Pear, Ginger, and Star Anise ...... 80 Buttered Herbed Potatoes and Shrimp GF/LC ...... 89 Pressure Cooker Chicken Pho GF ...... 84 Roasted Wild Mushroom Pappardelle V ...... 89 Saffron Tomato Chickpeas, Freekeh, and Brussels 1 TO Sprouts ...... 66 A g ee e ea , a b ed Slow-Cooker Carnitas concrete vases, barn-wood GF ...... 88 furniture, icy vegan desserts, Sumac Hummus with Kale and more Ribbons and Roasted Delicata Squash ...... 64 77 Sweet and Spicy Red TRAVEL Kuri Squash Bowl ...... 67 SIDES HOME & GARDEN MASTER CLASS PROFILE 82 Author Andrea Nguyen Brown Basmati Coconut 17 For TOMS founder Blake Rice VG ...... 62 DECORATING IDEAS cracks the pho code for Mycoskie, seeing the world 33 the home cook. Freekeh Tabbouleh ...... 68 inspired him to do better in it. Three creative attic renova- Freekeh with Parsley tions prove just how much and Onions LC/VG ...... 63 fun you can pack into a FAST & FRESH TAKE ME THERE 88 Three quick weeknight meals, Garnish Plate for Pho 22 small space. (Dia Rau Song) ...... 86 Powder play: Bypass hard including slow-cooker Herbed Chickpeas snow, long lift lines, and drafty carnitas and roasted wild- lodges for the new ski holiday. IDEA GARDEN GF/LC/LS/VG ...... 62 42 From Succulents, our new mushroom pappardelle Kale Ribbons book, comes a California GF/LC/LS/VG ...... 63 TREND IN THE SUNSET KITCHEN 28 Treehouses elevate ordinary garden devoted to the 90 Red Pear Salad with low-water lookers. All about olive oil: mild vs. Lemon Parmesan Dressing vacations into experiences bold, all-purpose vs. finishing, GF/LC/LS/V ...... 79 filled with wonder. GARDEN CHECKLIST and deciphering the label Roasted Winter Squash 46 What to do in your garden with Honey, Tahini, and Lime GF/LC/LS/V ...... 63 in January SIP 92 Are you an aspiring wine- Saffron Tomato Chickpeas maker? Realize your GF/LC/VG ...... 62 Spiced Brown Basmati FOOD & DRINK dream through a local community college. Coconut Rice GF/LC/LS/VG ...... 62

PEAK SEASON DESSERT 77 Put juicy, sweet pears to UP NEXT work in salad, dessert, 98 Enter our Instagram contest Comice Pear Clafoutis and even ginger-braised to win a coastal getaway for LC/LS/V ...... 78 short ribs. two to San Diego! PANTRY Ginger Dipping Sauce (Nuoc Mam Gung) ...... 86 On our cover RECIPE GUIDE Weeknight dinner game plan page 60 Give back, give better page 17 Jump-start GF: Gluten-free; LC: Low calorie; your life pages 17, 33, 48, 60, 70, 92 Small-space refresh pages 33, 70 LS: Low sodium; V: Vegetarian; VG: Vegan Our full guide to nutrition TOMS founder Blake Mycoskie in Malibu. TipiMarqui™ tent: Under Canvas, undercanvas.com. and good cooking: All props from Found Vintage Rentals (foundrentals.com) ; prop sourcing by Sterling Social sunset.com/cookingguide. (sterlingsocial.com). Shoes: TOMS. Mycoskie’s own RRL poncho (draped on crate). Photograph by Thomas J. Story; prop styling by Joni Noe; grooming by Mia Baker Kessler. WE ONLY DISCOUNT

TWICE A YEAR.

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CUSTOMER SERVICE: For help concerning your subscription, visit sunset.com/customerservice; call our toll-free number, (800) 777-0117; or write to Sunset Subscriber Assistance, Box 32120, Tampa, FL 33662-2120. To ensure continuous service, send new and old addresses eight weeks before moving. If possible, include most recent Sunset mailing label. Send address changes to Sunset, Box 32120, Tampa, FL 33662-2120. SUBSCRIBERS: If the post office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within two years. Your bank may provide updates to the card information we have on file. You may opt out of this service at any time. Available in dry, wet & treats 6 JANUARY 2017 ❖ SUNSET Your dog shares the spirit of the wolf. And his love for meat.

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Open your heart & home this holiday A dopt a pet near you at home4theholidays.org

Love them like family. Feed them like family.® CONVERSATIONS New JUMP-START &

verb \Ԥj mp-Ԥstärt\ · to start (a vehicle whose battery is not working) by connecting its battery to another source of power (such as the battery of another vehicle) · to cause (something) to start quickly · to give new energy to (something) DIY succulents We teamed with expert grower JUMP-START YOUR LIFE. What does that Robin Stockwell to bring you mean, exactly—other than as a handy little Succulents: The Ultimate Guide. catchphrase for a January edition of Sunset? Get pro tips for planting and crafting with these unthirsty What does it mean for you right now? One beauties. $25; sunset.com/ of the trickier aspects of editing a monthly succulentsbook. magazine, particularly in this digital-first age, is the lag time between shipping an issue off to the printer and getting it into a reader’s hands: You need to intuit popu lar sentiment weeks or months from the moment you produce a photo shoot or type words onto a screen. Never has that seemed truer than today as I sit here writing this, one week after our presidential election TIME-lapse and with my news and social-media feeds From our sister brand TIME comes 100 Photographs, a coffee- full of uncertainty and emotion. table book ($25), print series So I’m willing myself into a 2017 mind-set and trusting that by the time you read (shoptime.com), and website this in two months, we will have made progress toward some sort of healing. Call it (time100photos.com) of 100 images that changed the world. naïveté, if you like; I call it hope. Not that we will resolve the enormity of our differ- one for all : ences—even among the 1.25 million subscribers of this magazine who live in places toms founder blake like Idaho and California, Washington and New Mexico, I certainly am aware that mycoskie in differences exist. But I also believe that deep down, we cherish the same desires for malibu our everyday lives. To feed our families a nourishing weeknight dinner (page 88 ). To create an inspiring home, whether that be a homestead in the desert (page 48) or a 200-square-foot Airstream in an RV park (page 70). To feel empowered to follow our true calling, like 67-year-old NASA scientist Walt Brooks (page 92 ), who proved it’s never too late to become a winemaker—and made it happen by enrolling in his local community college . The year is fresh; the future is ours to imagine. The West has always been about living the dream. Meet me IRENE EDWARDS, EDITOR-IN-CHIEF | @irene_sunset | [email protected] in Palm Springs We’re thrilled to announce our 2017 Idea House in this beautiful desert town. A collaboration Write to us, tweet us, or tag us on your Instagram; we promise with Better Built Inc., o2 Architec- JOIN THE SUNSET COMMUNITY we read each and every one of your comments. ture, and interior design team 30 Collins, the stunning modern facebook.com/ @sunsetmag @Sunset pinterest.com/ home will open for tours in Octo- SunsetMagazine on Instagram on Twitter SunsetMag ber. sunset.com/PSIdeaHouse. DEFINITION: MERRIAM-WEBSTER’S COLLEGIATE ROMEREIN/GETTY LISA ; IMAGES DICTIONARY SPENCER TOY, E. LEFT: THOMAS J. STORY, TOP CLOCKWISE FROM

8 JANUARY 2017 ❖ SUNSET TUNE WHAT MAKES A DOER? IN

Find out how these real AMERICAN DOERS inspire us all. They’re the everyday self-starters who defy the odds and turn dreams into realities. From big-city strivers to small-town superheroes, AMERICAN DOERS share their passion, their courage, and their unbreakable spirit in this groundbreaking new video series.

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WHAT WE’RE TRACKING THIS MONTH

“We wanted to create a secret for people to stumble upon in the city—like a hot spring discovered while hiking in the mountains.” So says Sunny Simmons about Onsen, his newly launched holistic spa and tea- room in San Fran- cisco’s Tenderloin neighborhood. Inspired by Japan’s community bath- houses, he and his wife , Caroline Smith , bought a defunct auto body shop and transformed the for- mer mechanics pit into a contemporary bathing pool, com- plete with a skylight fringed with ferns . Six private treatment rooms offer afford- able massages, Reiki, and acupuncture ; a small restaurant serves inventive dishes (thick rice porridge with miso kimchi and quail egg ) along with a se- lection of teas and sakes. The duo spent three years building the spa by hand, he raiding second- hand shops for the steampunk-style showerheads and she illustrating the signage that doubles as wall art. Adds Simmons , “Every BEST element has its own SOAK story.” From $30 for URBAN BATHHOUSE two hours ; onsensf.com. RAQUEL VENANCIO RAQUEL —Jenna Scatena

SUNSET ❖ JANUARY 2017 11 BEST COLOR STORY YES, THIS

BEST IS CONCRETE REUSE BARN-WOOD REVIVAL Cold and gray is how most people think of concrete, but The initials in its name stand for “rustic aged wood,” and that’s exactly what Salt Lake City’s Matt Heide sees it as a blank R.A.W . Restorations turns into furniture and pieces of art . “I’ve always made use of reclaimed canvas. The English-lit grad materials,” says cofounder Kelley Jensen , a contractor for almost 35 years. “Pallets, lumber, logs, was applying a quick-set con- you name it—I’ve taken it and reinvented it.” Now he’s in business with daughter Kat e (pic- crete to leaky storm drains tured) , a former mortgage broke r who has long had a passion for building. The two are true around Edmonton, Canada , partners: Kate finds retired barns, the two dismantle them , and then they create products rang- when its pliable, super- ing from dining tables and dog beds to floor panels for Airstream renovations. “There’s so much sculptural nature suddenly character in wood,” says Kate , who also runs the company’s popular Instagram account (@raw clicked. That’s when Heide restorations) . “It’s fun to give it a second life.” Prices vary; rawrestorations.com . —Jess Chamberlain came up with the idea behind Concrete Cat , where he devel- oped a coloration process that borrows techniques from paper marbling . The result: a An alpine-style getaway in New Mexico mesmerizing array of one-off tiles, bowls, vases, bookends, Next month, the 80-room Blake BEST at Taos Ski Valley—the first major and custom projects in dreamy, HIDEOUT building in the base area in two on-trend patterns. Heide is decades —opens with ski-in/ski-out also beginning to experiment access and refined resort ameni- ties, including a state-of-the-art spa. But it’s the with deeper shades. “I’m ex- design details celebrating northern New Mexico cited about rich jewel tones culture that truly set it apart: Navajo textiles , right now. The late ’70s and vintage photographs by ski racer and National Geographic lensman Dick Durrance, and a cus- early ’80s were a good tom desk inspired by the moccasins worn by source of color: browns, tans, Taos Pueblo Native Americans. A gallery dedi- gold, maroon, navy blue, cated to Ernie Blake, the visionary founder of the valley, ensures that the character of this be- green. I want to do it all.” con loved ski resort remains true to iconoclastic

cretecat.com. —Chantal Lamers form. From $249; skitaos.com. SCHMIDT RIGHT: KURT BOTTOM

12 JANUARY 2017 ❖ SUNSET BEST COOLDOWN Your one-stop shop for winter sun

Only in Malibu would the Ranch at the Pier qualify as a bait and tackle shop. BEST SURF Overlooking Surfrider Beach and run by One Gun Ranch (page 17), the SHACK nautically styled boutique celebrates the concept of endless summer. Saludos espadrilles and Shaw & Tenney oars are sold along with botanical skin-care products and gorgeously designed Arbor skateboards; chic housewares share the shelves with model airplanes and vintage memorabilia, including black-and-white photographs of legendary surfers. Pride of place goes to the bags of the ranch’s biodynamic compost, displayed in wagons out front and aptly dubbed Super(ior) Soil. There’s something for everyone—from tourist to local. ranchatthepier.com.

THE HEALTHY DESSERT WE’RE CRAVING NOW January might be an odd time to have ice cream on the brain, but the vegan frozen concoctions from just-launched Seattle company Frankie & Jo’s are a guilt-free way to stick to your New Year’s resolutions. Made by hand, the dairy- and gluten-free—but flavor-rich—recipes feature a sprouted-cashew and coconut-milk base, natural sweeteners like dates, and creatively good-for-you ingredients. The Gingered Golden Milk has fresh turmeric and ginger root, both anti-inflammatories; the Salted Caramel Ash contains activated charcoal, which acts as a purifier, removing toxins from the body; and the Chocolate Date consists of only four ingredients (coconut milk, cocoa powder, organic dates, and sea salt). Be sure to try the waffle cones, made with maple syrup and oat flour. $14/pint, four-pint min. for online

FROM LEFT: BROOKE FITTS, JACK GUY (3) LEFT: FITTS,FROM BROOKE JACK order; frankieandjos.com. —J.C.

SUNSET ❖ JANUARY 2017 13 “WE GROW ALMONDS— AND A WHOLE LOT MORE.”

Almond farmers in California grow more than a food that’s rich in nutrition.

They’re also growing jobs, water effi ciency, environmental research and more.

Grow what you know about almonds at almondsustainability.org leafy and sunny: the solarium at pistils nursery

BEST REFRESH BRING THE GARDEN INDOORS

High on our list of dreamy winter escapes: the updated solarium at Portland’s Pistils Nursery. We’re inspired to turn a sunny corner at home into our own version of this green retreat—starting with the perfect woven basket and a cork-mounted philoden- dron. pistilsnursery.com. vining cork mount, from $34

beaded beach- hagemann comber botanical Basket, oak print $46 chart, $180

Kendall, A., Marvinney, E., Brodt, S. and Zhu, W. (2015), Life Cycle–based Assessment of Energy Use and Greenhouse Gas Emissions in Almond Production, Part I: Analytical Framework and Baseline Results. Journal of Industrial Ecology, 19: 1008–1018. doi: 10.1111/jiec.12332. University of California Agricultural Issues Center. The Economic Impacts of the California Almond Industry. perched stone December 2014. Pot Duo, $46 14 JANUARY 2017 ❖ SUNSET © 2016 Almond Board of California. All rights reserved. AN EXCELLENT SOURCE OF

CANIN EVERY -CRUNCHDO

Whatever you take on, take it on with almonds. Get 6g of energy-giving protein and 4g of hunger- slaying fi ber to really bring it all day, every day.

Learn more at Almonds.com. One serving of almonds (28g) has 13g of unsaturated fat and only 1g of saturated fat. and only 1g of saturated fat One serving of almonds (28g) has 13g unsaturated

© 2017 Almond Board of California. All rights reserved. CRUNCH ON ION

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PROFILE THE CHANGE MAKER For TOMS founder Blake Mycoskie, seeing the world was what inspired him to do better in it. By Melissa Goldstein

One Gun Ranch in Malibu, an educational working farm that’s among Mycoskie’s recommended places to volun- teer while traveling in the West (for more, see page 20). PROP STYLING:PROP JONI NOE; SOURCING: GROOMING: STERLING SOCIAL PROP KESSLER; MIA BAKER

Photographs by THOMAS J. STORY SUNSET ❖ JANUARY 2017 17 Travel

llegedly, Blake Mycoskie, founder of TOMS, celebrated turning 40 this year. Objectively, it doesn’t sound like there was time. When we meet at Malibu’s One Gun Ranch, where he’s dropped in for an event A to spread the TOMS gospel (delivered with Bill Clinton–level cha- risma and Matthew McConaughey looks) and to learn about the property’s volunteer programs, Mycoskie has just gotten back from a trip to Jackson Hole, Wyoming, with his wife and collaborator, Heather, and their 2-year- old son Summit. Prior to that, his schedule verged on the Carmen Sandiego–an: One minute he was in Iowa, at the high school graduation of his Ethiopian adopted son , Wubetu (they met when Wubetu was 14); the next, he was at Cannes, accepting an award for his charitable work. In a few weeks, he’ll be taking a TOMS giving trip to Appalachia to distribute shoes to people in need. For many, the four-decade mark brings with it a sense of urgency, a desire to find fulfill- ment in one’s personal life and career. For Mycoskie, all that seems to be missing is time to eat (which he’ll do later in the interview, devouring dinner in the wilds of his Topanga Can- yon backyard). The Texas native’s life-changing moment came more than 10 years ago. While vacationing in Argentina, taking a monthlong break from the software company he was running at the time, he had an epiphany: “I was there long enough to keep seeing these kids without shoes,” says Mycoskie. Modeling TOMS shoes after the canvas slip-ons farm- ers in the area wore, he came up with a “one for one” business model that links a chari- table donation to every sale. “People see travel as a luxury, but it’s also an invest- ment … because the brain works in a weird way: When you’re not trying to come up with the solution to something, you can actually be the most productive.” Since launching in 2006, TOMS has sold—and donated—more than 70 million pairs of shoes around the world. The brand has also added eyewear, coffee, and a range of bags to the portfolio, helping restore sight to more than 400,000 people, pro- vide more than 335,000 weeks of safe wa- ter, and train birth attendants as well as provide birth kits to help more than 25,000 women safely deliver babies. In 2015, Mycoskie passed the title of Scenes from the 25-acre CEO at TOMS to Jim Alling, in order to fo- ranch, where horses are avail- cus on, among other things, the TOMS So- able for trail rides. Opposite: Mycoskie on the property. cial Entrepreneur Fund, a venture partially Tipi, undercanvas.com; crate funded by the 50-percent sale of the com- and textiles, foundrentals. com; shoes, toms.com. pany to a private-equity firm in 2014. The

18 JANUARY 2017 ❖ SUNSET “I think that more and more people are looking to have meaningful experiences in travel.” —BLAKE MYCOSKIE Travel

GET AWAY, GIVE BACK

Volunteering lets you experience a place on another level. Here are some of Mycoskie and Sunset’s fa- vorite places to do that in the West. Mycoskie also likes the app Gold- en (goldenvolunteer.com), which connects volunteers with organiza- tions based on their interests. A gardener at One Gun Ranch; old wagon wheels ONE GUN RANCH and horseshoes at the sta- This biodynamic farm in Malibu, ble. Below: Mycoskie in his Land Rover Defender. where the primary goal is educa- tion, invites volunteers to help out in the garden and holds monthly classes on sustainable growing project aims to support the next wave of socially minded companies—for example, ArtLift- methods. “Teaching people about food is so important,” says My- ing , an organization providing representation and gallery licensing for homeless or dis- coskie. “With so much of what we abled people who are artists. eat, we don’t even know where it Having changed the course of his own life through a business built on betterment, My- comes from.” 1gunranch.com. coskie is now looking to help others do the same. “I feel so blessed that I’m doing at 40 what SURFERS HEALING a lot of people have to wait until their 70s to do,” he says. “It’s really fun being the mentor, Pro surfer Israel Paskowitz and the coach, helping the next generation and not just focusing on your own stuff.” his wife founded this organization It’s an idea that’s neatly summed up by a recent tattoo on his arm, which reads, “for one for their autistic son, whose senso- ry overload issues were assuaged another.” The phrase came to him during a collaborative marketing exercise. “It goes back by riding waves. Based in San again to travel and why it’s sometimes hard for me to be home,” Mycoskie admits. “Because Juan Capistrano, the group offers when I’m home, I’m focusing on my issues, my problems. But when you’re traveling, you volunteer opportunities all along the West Coast. “If you’re a good have to engage with people—it gets you more in that ‘for one another’ mind-set.” swimmer, you can volunteer,” says Travel has long fueled his give-back mentality, starting with an appearance on the show Mycoskie. surfershealing.org. The Amazing Race with his sister when he was 25. “That was when I first traveled to places JACKSON HOLE THERAPEUTIC that had some poverty: the townships in South Africa, Argentina, Brazil, and parts of Thai- RIDING ASSOCIATION land,” he says. “I started to develop a curiosity of how differently we all live, and how we Pairing military veterans and really are connected as a global village.” disabled individuals of all ages Given that globe-trotting with a 2-year-old isn’t the easiest, these days Mycoskie’s jaunts with horses, JHTRA achieves life- changing results. “When they get tend to be closer to home, often in the West. Mountaineering trips are a passion; not surpris- people on the saddle on the horse, ing, given his son’s name. “I hope it’s not too amazing things happen with their much pressure on him. I hope he doesn’t minds,” says Mycoskie. jhtra.org. feel like he’s gotta climb every mountain,” MAUI HUMANE SOCIETY he says, smiling, but also revealing a hint of The Beach Buddies program al- genuine concern. After all, Mycoskie him- lows travelers to explore the island self seems to embrace that challenge: Earlier with a shelter dog by their side. Volunteers can take their dog for last year, he attempted The Grand Traverse, a hike in the hills or a walk along a series of 10 peaks in the Grand Tetons. the sand. mauihumanesociety.org . “You do them consecutively without coming SOLID GROUND down, but it was pretty grueling, so we only got three or four,” he says. Tellingly he adds, Devoted to food justice, this non- profit invites volunteers to jump “I went back, and got a few more.” in at its community farms in South Seattle. From planting seeds to distributing vegetables, partici- DIGITAL BONUS Plan a truly good pants help get crops from the vacation with our voluntourism guide: farms onto well-deserving tables. sunset.com/voluntourism. solid-ground.org.

20 JANUARY 2017 ❖ SUNSET THE YEAR’S BIGGEST BREAKOUT TV STAR

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TAKE ME THERE

POWDER PLAY Not a fan of hard snow, long lift lines, and drafty lodges? Well, get ready: The new and improved ski day is about to knock your socks off.

IT’S THAT TIME of year when a line is drawn in the snow. On one side better way. While you’ve stayed away, ski resorts have been upping are the powderhounds who stockpile gear and bank PTO days wait- their game, from adopting new snowmaking technologies to ex- ing for the next dump. On the other side, the rest of us. We’ve sat in panding their après scene beyond buffalo wings. Today the snow is the traffic jams, slept in the cheesy chalets, and shivered our butts better, the terrain is endless, and the base camps are bad ass. Make

off, all in the name of fun. No more. We’re here to tell you there’s a this the year you cross the line and call yourself a skier. GAYLE MELISSA

22 JANUARY 2017 ❖ SUNSET OWN A MOMENT IN TIME.

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STATS TOP STOPS MORE RUNS, MORE FUN Resorts love measuring contests. More mountain means shorter lines, and more time to plot après plans. Three mergers that give you the most downhill for your dollar: say hello to perfect corduroy

BLACKCOMB WHISTLER 3,414 4,757 acres acres

Whistler Blackcomb: 8,171 acres

BRAGGING RIGHTS Largest ski resort in North America with 200-plus runs , including one called Burnt Stew , which goes for almost 7 miles . THE BEST IN SNOW

There was a time, if you can imagine it, when we waited for nature to buffer. During the 1920s , the first ski resorts in the country relied on SQUAW VALLEY ALPINE MEADOWS natural falling snow to blanket their mountains. Which worked out 3,600 2,400 acres acres great when the flakes were flying but, in between storms, the slopes were often an icy-patchy-melty mess. We now live in a world where high-powered guns launch pristine powder 100 feet into the air—in July. And state-of-the-art grooming machines prowl the mountain, turning Squaw Valley Alpine Meadows: today’s ice into tomorrow’s corduroy while we sleep. Today’s snow is 6,000 acres better, more abundant, and like everything else in our lives, on-demand. Are we spoiled? Probably. Does it feel good? Judge for yourself at these BRAGGING RIGHTS The “Squallywood” pub crawl. Start with a pint at Le Chamois and top flake-making mountains. finish at Umbrella Bar, the country’s only mountaintop bar with a pool and hot tub . Sun Valley, Diamond Peak, Boreal Mountain, Idaho Nevada California

Their snowmaking Two years ago , Dia- Schussing in your PARK CITY CANYONS RESORT system harnesses mond Peak deployed T-shirt on a gorgeous 3,300 4,000 data from 114 moun- the country’s first California day? It acres acres tain monitors (on GPS-enabled groom- might sound crazy, temperature, humidi- ing machines , which but this Lake Tahoe ty, wind direction), use highly calibrated resort uses a new so snow gu ns can location information all-weather snow adapt their technique to measure snow machine from Italy to real-time condi- depth to the inch— that pumps out Park City Mountain Resort: tions. The result: Up- then reconfigure 2.3 tons of fino 7,300 acres to-the-minute awe- their sculpting appro- flakes every hour. someness at every priately. diamond rideboreal.com. BRAGGING RIGHTS Being able to ski all turn. sunvalley.com. peak.com. three of the resort’s peaks—Murdock, Ninety-Nine 90, and Jupiter Peak—from rope to rope. Estimated time: 7 hours.

24 JANUARY 2017 ❖ SUNSET PLAY HANG OUT AT BASE CAMP In the old days, resorts lacked comforts. You might expect to eat bland chili, sleep in a drafty lodge, and find the town asleep by 8. Now, the hills are alive—with top chefs, craft cocktails, even mountaintop yoga. Welcome to your perfect après-ski.

NEW CLASSIC UNEXPECTED

Squaw Valley’s Amid pine beams and throw- Utah’s Solitude Mountain lets take on dinner back photos at Whitefish’s you snowshoe through lantern-lit and a movie Cafe Kandahar, the James pines to dinner—in a Mongolian EAT stars a four- Beard–nominated chef serves yurt! Inside, find delicacies like espresso- course meal, kill- dishes like elk carpaccio and crusted rack of lamb and maple er cocktails, and beanbags for forest-mushroom gratin . $$$$ ; bourbon pots de crème. $130 ; kids. From $59; squawalpine.com . cafekandahar.com . skisolitude.com .

This winter, Mt. Hood’s old-school Perched high in the At Idaho’s Schweitzer, Schpring Timberline Lodge unveils Y’Bar, Wasatch , The St. Finale means music, beer tastings, a pub redone by the designers of Regis Deer Valley and a Cardboard Derby . Suit up, RAGE the space-age Seattle W. Roll-up slings elevated cocktails, like the make a tobog- doors open onto a deck, where 7452 Mary , a Bloody made with gan, and join the you can sip from a river of local local vodka distilled at 7,000 feet . fun. Apr 8–9 ; beer. $$; timberlinelodge.com. $$$$; stregisdeervalley.com. schweitzer.com.

Glide to the slopes without hit- Don’t you dare call it Find Zen atop ting one traffic light on Den- a hot tub: The 85° Aspen Moun- ver’s newly resurrected ski pool at Alaska’s Aly- tain, where a CHILL train . Plush railcars whisk you eska Resort is set yogi leads sun to Winter Park from Union under beamed ceil- salutations in the Station. From $39 one way; am ings, surrounded by epic views. resort’s window-walled Sundeck. trak.com/winterparkexpress. From $139; alyeskaresort.com. $5; aspensnowmass.com.

BYO rig, and luxe Overstuffed chairs , roaring Three words: bourbon new Angel Fire RV fireplaces , cross-country body scrub . Four Sea- Resort provides the trails outside your door. Little sons Vail dishes up de- CRASH clubhouse , hot tub, has changed at Mammoth lights, from pocket-size and weekly wine and Lakes’ Tamarack Lodge. bacon treats to an après cheese tastings . From $59 ; angel And that’s just fine with us. whiskey cart . From firervresort.com . From $99 ; tamaracklodge.com . $619; fourseasons.com/vail .

Q&A olympic veteran should be effortless. Try to learn you something, and you won’t LEARNING CURVES on mellow runs, so you won’t get it. Then after trying over and fear losing control. And be sure over, you’ll have a breakthrough, to get equipment that’s sized and suddenly you’re on the next Ski school is so much better right. You want a shop where level. It’s incredible to watch. when taught by a pro. Here’s the employees ski every day Olympic racer Wendy Fisher on and understand the gear. Why do you love skiing? the art of not looking stupid. The freedom. If you play tennis, Should I take a lesson? you need a court. But skiing Tips for first-timers? Yes! You don’t want to start ski- you can do anywhere there’s If you’re winded and struggling, ing wrong; it’s harder to correct snow—on the trails, in the you’re not doing it right. Skiing later. Often an instructor will tell treeline. I love that. CLOCKWISE FROM BOTTOM LEFT: BRYCE BOYER, AUBREE DALLAS, DON RIDDLE AUBREE BOYER, LEFT: BRYCE BOTTOM CLOCKWISE FROM

SUNSET ❖ JANUARY 2017 25 Travel

GEAR BETTER, WARMER No more clunky coats and rickety skis to muck up your mountain fantasy. Today’s gear is engineered for maximum performance, while keeping you warm from nose to toes.

Your hands Your face Your toes Take one pair of waterproof The futuristic Anon M3 MFI Cold, stiff boots are tough on the gloves, add a rechargeable Goggles have concealed toes. The solution: the Transpack lithium-ion battery , and you magnets that attach to your Heated Boot Pro bag, an get ... the new Capstone Heated face warmer, keeping you ingenious satchel that plugs right mr. bond, your goggles Gloves. Now, you can warm your covered from chin to nose are ready into your car lighter . Works on mitts at the touch of a button . on windy lift rides. $265; socks, gloves, and hats too . $500 ; outdoorresearch.com. burton.com. $220; transpack.net. the only pair of skis you’ll ever need

Your tush Nothing can ruin your run quicker Your core Your new ski s than an ice-cold lift chair. The spe- Made from 100 percent merino With an hourglass shape , cially designed Women’s Cheeky wool, the REI Merino Midweight a lightweight core , and a tip Pants combat bum-freeze with an base layer has the warmth of and tail curved like Elvis additional, removable pair of ther- wool with the soft feel of a synthet- Presley’s lips, the Rossignol mal shorts . $450 ; marmot.com . ic . The top also wicks moisture , Soul 7 HD skis practically keeping you dry until the sun sets. turn on their own. $850 ; By Jeremy Pugh, Megan McCrea, $80; rei.com. rossignol.com . and Marie Salcido

Big Sky, Montana is your home for winter adventure. Everywhere you look, nature’s unspoiled beauty will surround you. With over 5,800 acres of downhill terrain, you’ll see why Big Sky is the Biggest Skiing in America. Come out West for the best. Head to BiggestSkiingInAmerica.com today. Travel

TREND

Sleep in amid the palms at Mexico’s Playa Viva eco retreat. UP IN THE AIR Hoteliers are transforming guest rooms into treehouses, elevating ordinary vacations into experiences filled with wonder. By Charyn Pfeuffer

YOU ARE IN A TREE. be careful. The sign at Washington’s Doe Guys, on which Doe Bay’s suite was featured). Bay Resort & Retreat is a gentle reminder to watch your step “There’s something playful, almost primal, about sleeping in the in the hotel’s newest suite, a cottage-esque treehouse 18 feet above trees,” says David Leventhal, the developer behind Playa Viva, the ground. “Being cradled by the forest as you sleep is something a beach resort south of Zihuatanejo , Mexico. The hotel’s creatively few people forget,” says River Augenstein, general manager of designed treehouse—an oval bamboo structure with a canopied the Orcas Island resort. Like many other hoteliers around the king bed, open to Pacific breezes —is a world away from those nail- West, Augenstein added the rustic-luxe structure in response to and-2x4 home-builds of childhood. Yet as you climb the ladder up the growing love for houses high up in the forest (there’s even to it, you almost expect to see a different kind of sign: no adults

a DIY Network show dedicated to the topic, called The Treehouse allowed. Here are six of the West’s best new treetop digs. KEVIN STEELE

28 JANUARY 2017 ❖ SUNSET Travel

the treehouse at baja’s acre resort paddle up b.c.’s sunshine coast from secret cove treehouse

TROPICAL TEMPLES EVERGREEN HIDEOUTS MEXICO WASHINGTON The dozen new thatched treehouses at San Sleep in the sweet spot between the clouds Jose del Cabo’s Acre (pronounced ah-cray) and the forest floor of the Columbia River resort soar 15 feet into the palm-forest cano- Gorge on the Washington/Oregon border py, high enough to see the entire 25-acre at Skamania Lodge’s two new cabin-style farm they’re perched on. Using the surround- treehouses. Cedar walls and an indoor- ings for inspiration, the palapa-style rooms outdoor fireplace give them a modern forest are made from the property’s stock of palo feel. Their location, 20 feet in the air, makes de arco trees; each has a terrace shower with for stellar owl’s-eye panoramas, and the prop- views of the Sierra de la Laguna Mountains. a contemporary interior at erty has 4 miles of hiking trails and a zipline When you’re not lounging amid the leaves, the secret cove treehouse (for those craving even more tree time). on-site bar is the spot to mingle over Mexico- From $399; destinationhotels.com/skamania. centric cocktails. From $200; acrebaja.com. Staying in Doe Bay Resort & Retreat’s Playa Viva’s bamboo treehouse was COASTAL CLUBHOUSES newest suite is like glamping in the branches: designed with a lookout tower in mind. Hover- The structure’s wraparound deck, elevated ing 10 feet over the cactus-studded landscape BRITISH COLUMBIA 18 feet and outfitted with Adirondack chairs, of a secluded eco resort 35 minutes south of British Columbia’s best-kept secret is its Sun- serves as an all-day, open-air lounge. The Zihuatanejo, the cylindric abode provides a shine Coast, a rugged 100-mile shoreline loft bedroom is accessed by a hand-forged clear shot of the Pacific Ocean—close enough laced with bays and inlets. The best place to ladder. From $178; doebay.com. for the waves to lull you to sleep at night. cozy up is high atop a craggy fjord at the Come morning, you may want to desert your Secret Cove Treehouse, a knotty-pine dwell- DIGITAL BONUS More sky-high perch to explore the 200-acre property, a ing with radiant-floor heating and picture win- places to sleep and play: sunset.com/ sanctuary and estuary home to hundreds of dows with vertigo-inducing views cascading treehouses. birds, turtles, and ancient Aztec ruins. From down to the placid cove below. Revel in it with $445; playaviva.com. an in-room massage, soak in the moonlit hot tub, or amble to the private dock stocked with canoes. The property’s two treehouses can be booked in tandem for bigger groups. From $135; secretcovetreehouse.com. For total seclusion, slip into the Cliffhouse Cottage, a cabin-in-the-sky on little-visited Galiano Island. Tucked away on the scenic Trincomali Channel, the cottage is built for fam- ilies, with a kitchen, outdoor grill, and wood- burning stove to add warmth to living areas on acre’s restaurant uses local brisk evenings. Two sprawling decks and a so- surveying the scene at ingredients in its global cuisine larium let you soak up the surrounding natural skamania lodge

TOP LEFT: MAKIKO ARA LEFT: MAKIKO TOP beauty. From $169; cliffhousecottages.com.

SUNSET ❖ JANUARY 2017 31 See inside from anywhere.

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DECORATING IDEAS RAISE THE ROOF Three creative attic renovations prove just how much fun you can pack into a small space. By Chantal Lamers

Up a notch CASSANDRA LaVALLE TAKES THE HOME OFFICE TO NEW HEIGHTS p. 34

Photographs by DAVE LAURIDSEN SUNSET ❖ JANUARY 2017 33 Home & Garden

keep it classic with black-and-white polka-dot shades blogger cassandra lavalle

lighting, and furnishings , she created a cozy and chic dressing room that she chronicled on her design and lifestyle blog, Coco Kelley (cocokelley.com) . At the same time, LaValle— whose company, Emerald Studio , styles shoots for clients such as Amazon and Starbucks—had been using a breakfast nook as her occa- sional workspace , complete with laptop cords and piles of paper. But after their kitchen demo got under way, she realized she had to put plan B into effect. What better place to work than the attic? “It’s tucked away from the rest of the house ,” she explains, “so I can close the door and not see laundry in the corner.” LaValle opted to outfit her new office with pared-down , slightly masculine pieces and a neutral 1 THE HOME OFFICE palette to better reflect the home’s evolving aesthetic: “Steep stairs , low ceilings , and a very tiny door- A longtime design blogger carves out a quiet nook in way limited what we could get in a shared Seattle nest . there.” Luckily, there was room for well-chosen touches—lush wallpa- TWO YEARS AGO , when Cassandra LaValle moved into her fiancé’s South Seattle Craftsman , she per , polka-dot window treatments , was faced with the daunting task of merging not only closets but also disparate decorating and a sheepskin thrown casually styles. Craving dedicated space for her wardrobe, LaValle claimed the home’s 140-square-foot over a chair —that bring subtle fem- attic, which had been retrofitted by a previous owner. With a little paint and new hardware, ininity into the picture.

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³ WORK OUT THE ³ CHOOSE THE WRITE SEATING A structured SURFACE An old farm- settee-style sofa takes house table was her the place of the former dream, but because she dressing-room chaise . needed a solid, even “That was more condu- workstation, LaValle opt- cive to reading a book ed for the next best or taking a nap—not thing: a classic campaign so good for working.” desk redone in a warm Leather loveseat, $3,322 ; wood. Desk, $229; bdantiques.com . Metal worldmarket.com. Wish- side table, from $295; bone chair , $314 ; atg firstpickdesign.com . stores.com.

why not match your stationery to your shades?

keep it old-school with an inspiration board

³ PLAY WITH PAT- ³ THROW SOME TERN For one key wall , SHADE “I knew I wanted LaValle selected wallpa- pattern for the Roman per that echoed the tree- shades, but it had to top views from her attic work with the bold wall- perch. “I wanted some- paper ,” LaValle explains. thing that had an indoor- The solution: playful yet outdoor feel,” she says. discreet polka dots that Makelike wallpaper in act as a classic comple- Lush Light Grey, $200/ ment to the maximalist roll; makelike.com . accent wall. The cotton- linen fabri c provides pri- ³ KEEP A LOW PRO- vacy while still allowing FILE Because of the low plenty of sunlight into the ceiling and petite quar- room. Roman shades in ters, LaValle decided Domino from the Kate against putting up shelv- Spade Collection at The a white dresser ing. “Piling books on Shade Store ; theshade fits perfectly a bench felt more stream- store.com. Leather under the eaves lined . ” Antique bench, campaign stool , $798 ; bdantiques.com. serenaandlily.com.

36 JANUARY 2017 ❖ SUNSET “It’s tucked away from the rest of the house, so I can close the door and not see laundry in the corner.”

—CASSANDRA LaVALLE

create an asymmetrical gallery wall with frames and mirrors

SUNSET ❖ JANUARY 2017 37 Home & Garden

cubbies with tubs are easy for kids to sort

designer jenna wilson and daughter adah 2THE PLAY SPACE

Smart organization and imaginative decor make this kids’ bedroom an all-ages wonderland.

JENNA WILSON was immediately captivated by the 500-square-foot attic in her fami- ly’s 1920s Craftsman in artsy Southeast Portland . She envisioned canvasing the plas- ter walls with inspirational images for her textile-based clothing company, Ace&Jig (aceandjig.com). But her two children, James, 8, and Adah, 6, called it first. “My kids immediately assumed this magical fairy house would be theirs,” said Wilson. “I had to give it up—there are two of them and only one of me.” With its low, pitched roof and multiple nooks , the long, narrow room serves as the siblings’ sleeping quarters, cre- ative retreat , and performance space (a series of ceiling hooks allow brightly colored the chalkboard wall: a tried-and-true patchwork “curtains ” to hang down for playacting ). It also gives Wilson a leg up on kid favorite bedtime: “The pitter-patter of small feet overhead is a giveaway they’re up to no good.”

Photographs by THOMAS J. STORY THE DETAILS

³ FAKE A RUG Wilson purchased a large can- vas drop cloth for $30 and let the kids loose with paint. “Textile paint is the best to use because it’s permanent,” she says. “You can throw the cloth in the washing machine and not have to worry about transfer.”

³ LET IT ALL HANG OUT Hardware-store hooks above the kids’ beds display soft pom- poms and puppets , all made from scrap fabric from Wilson’s company . “It’s an easy way to rotate art.”

³ DRESS UP A WALL Adah’s vintage dress-up clothes are too beautiful to hide behind closet this nook doors. A row of hooks doubles as helps keep them out on a dress-up display; below them, stage! knitting basket s are an easy place for Adah to toss accessories .

³ CORRAL THOSE TOYS Almost every par- ent knows that feeling: the pinch of stepping on a LEGO . “There’s noth- ing worse,” says Wilson, laughing. So when she scored a vintage black filing cabinet with 40- something little drawers , she knew it would make the ideal storage unit for organizing the tiny pieces categorically.

³ ADD A CRASH PAD The attic is a popular destination for cousins and friends to sleep over. Rather than lug ex- tra mattresses up the stairs, Wilson stacks a couple in the corner and disguises them under a patchwork quilt. Now they double as a daybed

PROP STYLING:PROP MIKHAEL ROMAIN (and the components of a killer fort) .

SUNSET ❖ JANUARY 2017 39 Bella is a part of my family, I believe “her happiness and health come before anything else.

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