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THE TECH TAKEOVER

OUTDOOR POWER BRANDS ARE WAGING A HIGH-STAKES TECH BATTLE WITH SOPHISTICATED COMPONENTRY. HERE, MAMMUT RECRUITS VIBRAM, BOA AND GORE-TEX FOR ITS NORDWAND 6000 HIGH GTX. 150 YEARS OF BLUNDSTONE Since 1870, Blundstone has been making tough, quality boots that are equally suited to work or play. Over the years, our business has evolved just like our island home, Tasmania, Australia but our ethos remains the same. Made for young and old but mostly the young at heart, the spirit of adventure and ‘can do’ attitude lives and breathes in our boots. Visit us at OR booth #49143-UL

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INSIDER Timberland THE LIST Garrison Trail Low 11 20 on 20 featuring uppers 35 Shoe of and lining made How fashion players with its recycled the Week plan to forge ahead Merrell saves water ReBotl tech as new challenges and energy with its emerge. new vegan-friendly style. 15 FN Spy Freida Pinto on her 36 Forward affinity for Clarks and Progress Elizabeth Saltzman Vibram’s Fabrizio on the awards season Gamberini talks styling race. sustainability. 40 Outside 16 DTC Next Influence Can Allbirds and How Keen is aiming to Rothy’s reach new replicate its fashion- heights? right positioning in Japan in the U.S.

41 Five Qs FEATURES The CEO of sustainable care 19 Show Notes brand DFNS talks What’s new at product. footwear’s leading domestic and international events. PICK 24 Show Business A guide to key trade 42 Showing shows for the first half Who’s Boss of the year. Billy Porter steps out in a stylish ensemble for the “Like a Boss” premiere. FASHION 27 All Teched Out A look at the outdoor industry’s fall ’20 lineup. ON THE COVER Photographed by 38 LUCAS ZAREBINSKI “Timberland does a great job of creating messaging across generations, across various people, and is using that to fight for the planet and social change.”

CHINSEE GEORGE PHOTO: — TIMBERLAND AMBASSADOR DOMINIQUE DRAKEFORD

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FN INNOVATORS: STUART VEVERS Week of Feb. 3 To kick o New York Fashion Week, we’ll be featuring an exclusive conversation with Coach Creative Direc- tor Stuart Vevers on how he has re-energized and evolved a legacy brand into the fashion powerhouse it is today. Plus, tune in to learn how Coach is stepping more into footwear this year. Stuart Vevers at the Coach fall 2019 runway show in New York

BEST STREET THE MOST A multi-colored pump at the Balmain spring STYLE AT MILAN BEAUTIFUL SHOES 2019 couture show FASHION WEEK AT PARIS COUTURE Week of Jan. 13 SHUTTERSTOCK OTHERS: FN’s intrepid street style SPRING 2020 photographer Jason Jean Week of Jan. 20 ALL JEAN; is at it again, shooting the FN Style Director Shannon most eye-catching looks Adducci will round up the most exquisite shoe styles and shoes from across JASON STYLE: the pond. Check in to see from the spring 2020 haute all the best styles from couture runways in Paris this STREET outside the Milan Men’s month. Stay tuned for our Fashion Week shows. take on some of the most artfully created footwear O’neil Gardner you’ll see this year by Chanel, in Andre 3000 x Dior and more. Tretorn sneakers WEEK MILAN FASHION PHOTOS:

Survey of Corporate said a expect a had said in Q1 CFOs Say the Economy slowdown recession 2019 they Will Slow in 2020 has already expected a 97% begun 3% 15% recession SOURCE: DELOITTE CFO SIGNALS SURVEY Untitled-6 1 1/7/20 10:54 AM POWERED BY LABS

Half a million pairs of boots were supplied by Blundstone to the Australian Army during World War II, including boots worn by soldiers on the infamous Kokoda Trail, complete with jungle cleats. The boots were so coveted that American soldiers swapped them for their own boots, such was the comfort and durability of the design.

A Blundstone Boot Is For Life The Tasmanian bootmakers celebrate 150 years of shoemaking success.

family-owned and still keeps its headquar- passion for the product and its quality. While Gunn. “We know a heck of a lot about our ters in Tasmania. In fact, it is the history the company now utilizes digital platforms business but we’re not know-it-alls. We want and story behind the footwear that resonates for communication purposes, it still relies a partner with market awareness and we with customers from all walks of life, in all heavily on word of mouth because Blund- understand that we have to bring people in areas of the world. In today’s saturated mar- stone customers are its best ambassadors. to be able to do things properly. We’ve been ketplace, many brands are fighting to convey The craftsmanship of each product, com- able to establish some sensational partner- authenticity — Blundstone has it in spades. bined with the carefully sourced leathers, has ships through doing that.” ne hundred and fifty “The story, in terms of where we come won Blundstone a crowd of loyal consumers. Looking to the next 150 years, the pri- years ago, Blundstone began making and from and who we are, is just as much about A recent investment in the women’s line ority is to launch in new markets and Oselling shoes to the local Hobart commu- why we’re relevant to the world these days as has seen that market grow rapidly for the spread the brand’s message that a Blund- nity in Tasmania, Australia. The boots were it ever was,” said Steve Gunn, CEO at Blund- company, but the main focus has been on stone boot is “for life.” So far, it’s working. practical and sturdy, designed to be worn stone. “We’re proud of the fact that our his- establishing a supply chain that can support Gunn recounted the story of a South Afri- day after day in all kinds of conditions. This tory is built on real need and on satisfying the brand as it scales. Gunn credits the many can customer who wore his shoes into the focus on longevity has served Blundstone that need. We’re proud of the fact that we’re partners that work with Blundstone as the ground. Knowing he needed to retire them, well; today, the company has a presence in stepping out to provide the same benefits to reason it has managed to transition so suc- he installed them as makeshift plant pots to over 70 countries and is a globally-recog- new consumers in new places that we’ve been cessfully from boot manufacturer to a brand give them a new lease on life. One eventu- nized market leader. able to provide people for the last 150 years.” that consumers connect with. ally become a nest for migratory birds, who But the brand has never lost sight of Blundstone wearers are found in every “The partnerships that have come our visited each year to lay their eggs– proving its heritage. Blundstone has remained demographic; the common thread is a way are the ones that we’ve still got,” said that Blundstone’s appeal truly is universal.

FNLABS_BLUNDERSTONE.inddUntitled-24 1 2 1/8/20 2:302:38 PM avenues for partners to engage with; and align with key selling periods across the Behind the Blundstone Brand globe. We have established a digital platform to showcase our activities and a specific con- Building a business that sees its 150th year – and counting — wouldn’t be possible without a team of experts sumer facing digital activation will go live in behind the scenes. FN spoke with some of the key players at Blundstone about how they get things done, what March 2020. As a salute to the milestone makes a Blundstone boot so special and what to expect from the 150th milestone celebrations. and in honor of the brand’s iconic product, Blundstone will also release an exclu- Darryl Wilkes capability of any potential partners to meet sees our product built around the Shock Pro- sive limited-edition ‘150 Boot’ inspired by Global Head of Operations our volume needs – current and future – are tection System (SPS) collection, focusing on the brand’s heritage: the original 500. also considerations. Poron XRD across new developments. We FN: Blundstone is a Tasmanian brand that also select quality, high grade leathers that FN: Why is it so meaningful for now has a global presence. How do you FN: How do you plan on gearing up improve feel, comfort and durability, while Blundstone to share this anniversary manage that international supply chain? for the next 150 years? What does this offering water repellent features for the day with its customers? DW: First and foremost, it’s about having mean for supply and distribution? to day wearer. AB: We know that when you pull on a pair close partnerships with suppliers at several DW: We plan to be much bigger than we are of Blundstones, you set out to do something. levels, from the negotiation table to the fac- now, so we will need much more capacity as Adam Blake So, whilst our boots won’t change the world tory floor. We have found that when suppli- the business becomes more complex. Having Global Head for Brand, Design and by themselves, the people that wear them ers have an understanding of our strategic very detailed short, medium and long-term Consumer Engagement just might. Over the years we have created objectives and expectations, it aligns both plans in place is essential for supply chain millions and millions of boots for an incred- businesses. We all want the same outcome. management. Details within the plan can FN: How is Blundstone commemorating ibly diverse set of consumers from all walks and will always change; however, the details the 150th anniversary? of life. Our story is also their story. We will FN: What are the considerations and timing are understood. In addition to AB: 2020 will be a year of celebration for mark the occasion of our 150th anniversary when choosing to expand into a new detailed plans, people are the other critical the brand, for employees, for partners, for by celebrating those who have worn Blund- supply market? element. An informed supply team is essen- fans, for end users and advocates. To enable stones in the past and those who wear them DW: Several factors are considered in tial for execution. every market that sells Blundstones to cele- today — and to ultimately inspire the next detail. Non-negotiables include social, eco- brate, we are creating a yearlong campaign generation who pull on a pair of Blund- nomic and environmental consideration, Joe Carfora to capitalize on key events; provide multiple stones in the future. for both potential partners and the coun- Global Range Manager (Leisure & tries in which they operate. Any supplier Ancillary) we partner with must seek to align with our brand values: family, the customer, com- FN: What are some of the biggest munity, design and integrity. Geographical successes during the past 150 years, risk, closeness to our key markets and the from a design standpoint? JC: You can’t go past the iconic Chelsea boot design. It was introduced 51 years ago, shared with the world in the 1980s and continues to sell around the world today. More broadly, while we are today a global business, the iso- lation of designing in and for Tasmanians for many years pushed us to innovate without influence and trends. This has created a resilience and unique style in design and in our products, that we continue to be proud of. Blundstone factory in Hobart, Tasmania. FN: How does the team decide what The company was materials and designs to use? Is there founded in 1870. a specific ethos that you stick to?

JC: Staying true to the brand DNA is our A family photo from primary focus when we are developing any the late 1800s. type of products. We then consider what the The story, in terms of market opportunities are when it comes to where we come from materials and color trends, to determine the best fit possible across the collection. In line and who we are, is just with our supply chain considerations, environmental and ethical considerations also as much about why come into play. we’re relevant to FN: What technologies or features Known fondly around the office as the world these days have you leveraged in your footwear “Blundstone Man” this is an early as it ever w a s .” TO ENSURE HIGH QUALITY PERFORMANCE advertisement detailing Blundstone’s AND PROTECTION? “Stylish, Serviceable and Durable” qualities. —STEVE GUNN, CEO JC: Our continued focus around comfort

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CAE S OOD O OP FASO FOOEA AD EAL LEADES AE ACL E CALLEES OF A E EA

BY FN STAFF this year is all about to us, in what will be referred Beard and Zodiac, and build 2020 mantra: “Balance. personalization, experiences to as ‘zero-click buying.’” on Famous Footwear’s 2019 Fashion is a crazy world. Being and love. Our team is momentum. In everything on the go and always on to focused on using technology we do, we’ll focus obsessively the next thing makes us forget to cater to our consumers on on the fundamentals that about ourselves along the way.” a personal level, capturing will bring her back again their hearts and minds and again — meaningful Key challenges: “To fi nd a in what we refer to as connections with our new language, a new way to ‘economics of love.’” consumer, great product, and interact with a public that gets operational excellence. bored faster and faster.” Key challenge: “The fashion industry is challenged with Trend I want to go away: DICK JOHNSON the paradox of having access “Mediocrity.” CHAIRMAN, PRESIDENT to so much data but not necessarily enough insights. NEIL CLIFFORD What I will do di erently: “I AND CEO, FOOT LOCKER There is a tremendous will take it easy. I want to be CEO, KURT GEIGER 2020 mantra: “Keep doing opportunity to utilize it more calm.” good things.” to make every customer Trend I want to go away: interaction unique. Knowing “Talking and worry about Big opportunity: “The pace our customers more Brexit. It will all be fi ne.” with which the consumer intimately ensures that we continues to move. Keeping o er products, services and What I will do di erently: up with that pace is an experiences that are truly “Spend even more time in opportunity for our industry.” personalized.” the U.S. It’s a big part of our SHAWN OUTLER future and I love the country E V P, CHIEF DIVERSITY Trend I want to go away: “I Trend talk: “The main trends a little more every time I would like to see this era of we see walk down the visit.” OFFICER, MACY’S divisiveness come to an end. Big opportunity: “I see a Focusing all of our energy on [chance] to consistently the common good would be o er di erentiated and WILL COOPER a refreshing change.” OFE EA E UESO compelling product.” S E SEAE DEAD S A VP AND DMM, WOMEN’S What I will do di erently: Trend I want to go away: SHOES, SAKS FIFTH “I will take more time to ADOE SAPLE AS O “The need to constantly be AVENUE celebrate the wins with our O AEE connected. I’d like to bring team. In this frenetic paced back good old-fashioned 2020 mantra: “It starts with world, we too frequently ill Cooper conversation.” the shoes! We are approaching move on to the next thing our buys as if the customer rather than taking a moment runways will appear in subtle Key challenge: “The same as What I will do di erently: is dressing from the shoe up. to enjoy the wins that we yet personalized ways within always, keeping your people “Self care!” As we’ve seen a shift on the have.” the styles of consumers happy, while growing the ready-to-wear runways to more and our customers. Trends business.” What the shoe industry minimalist and sophisticated What the shoe industry are becoming much more will look like in 2030: “The styling, there is an opportunity will look like in 2030: “As individualistic than in industry will be refl ective to bring the outfi t to life with a an industry, we will be seasons past.” of the populations it serves. great shoe. The spring ’20 shoe more connected than ever As consumers become collections were fi lled with — to the consumer, to the What I will do di erently: more diversifi ed and the color, sparkle, embellishment communities where we live “2020 is our opportunity need to understand and and prints that she doesn’t and work, to the stories we to advance our e orts reach them increases in already have in her wardrobe.” tell. There will certainly be focusing on creating new complexity, the industry will more connectivity between and innovative ways to be compelled to welcome Trend talk: “I often hear the partners in the industry.” personalize the shopping previously underrepresented question, ‘Is the sneaker dead?’ experience for our communities in critical It’s a wardrobe staple that is customers. We’re in the decision making processes.” not going anywhere, but we COMPANIES OF midst of transformation, and DIANE SULLIVAN are seeing the trend shift from it’s an exciting time to be a exaggerated silhouettes to part of this legendary luxury CEO, PRESIDENT AND clean, streamlined styles.” brand.” CHAIRMAN, CALERES INC.

2020 mantra: “It hasn’t Big Opportunity: “Saks will COURTESY OTHERS: What the shoe industry changed. We will continue to complete renovations of the will look like in 2030: “The stay close to our consumer, 10022-SHOE fl oor in our last decade has brought make product she’ll love and New York fl agship store this ALL STUART; us innovations and game give her a great experience spring. The redesign features changers like the iPad, wherever she chooses to elegant designer shops for our LANA Instagram and interactive shop. How we accomplish established, key brands and TODOROVICH fi tting rooms. By 2030, that may change from year allows clients to discover new, technology will give us to year, but those core beliefs emerging brands highlighted PRESIDENT AND CHIEF the tools to know exactly about what really matters in GIUSEPPE throughout the fl oor. “ PAUL CLIFFORD: MORALES; COMPANIES

MERCHANDISING what our unique needs terms of driving our business ZANOTTI OF OFFICER, NEIMAN are and will evolve into AI do not.” New talent: “There is a lot of working with digital stylists PRESIDENT & hype and excitement around MARCUS GROUP predicting and delivering Big opportunities: “We’ll CREATIVE DIRECTOR, the new guard of emerging 2020 mantra: “For me, perfect personalized fashions launch brands like Veronica GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI shoe designers such as Amina ANDREW OUTLER: PHOTOS: COURTESY PHOTOS:

Muaddi, Paris Texas, By Far there was a vibrant culture needs prior to producing and technologies that of the business, including and Midnight 00. It will be before that — then the new styles. I also plan to deliver performance and operations, inventory exciting to see how these market will be 45 years old modify my e-commerce comfort will make mile 10 control, retail, customer collections evolve beyond in 2030. Sneaker culture and platform and o er new styles feel like mile 1!” service, etc. Another key their signature styles that the shoe industry are already more frequently instead point will be ‘healthy’ from put them on the map. We global, but what you’ll see of a major release at the both a physical and mental are eager to see who are the in the next 10 years is more beginning of the season.” perspective.” next sensations yet to be of the culture originating in discovered.” new places. Chinese brands What the industry will look like Li-Ning and Anta will like in 2030: “It’s hard have had several cycles to to tell with everything develop better products and going on in the industry, marketing. These brands but I think there will be from the East will be big two distinct types of shoe contenders — along with designers — those that rely players from Europe and on new technology and the other parts of the world industrialization of footwear, KOICHIRO — to create a much more and those eager to preserve KODAMA diverse fi eld than exists the craft and the savoir faire today. New design talent of shoe design.” CEO, ASICS NORTH and ideas from around the AMERICA KENNETH COLE globe will fl ow quickly from JOHN MCPHETERS CHAIRMAN AND CHIEF AND JED STILLER one brand to the next. In the 2020 mantra: “For business: past decade, we saw young remain acutely focused. For CREATIVE OFFICER, CO FOUNDERS AND CO upstart fashion designers Tokyo 2020, we will focus KENNETH COLE CEOS, STADIUM GOODS direct major sneaker brands. on performance products PRODUCTIONS By 2030 we’ll see designers and enhancing our business Key challenge: “Authenticity. from other industries take through marketing, key 2020 mantra: “Life is not a It’s been fantastic to see the helm with a completely partners and digital. For dress rehearsal.” sneakers and streetwear di erent way of thinking.” the team: ‘Be Positive!’” become mainstream, but (McPheters) Key challenge: “Tari s and any time something that Key challenge: “We must tari s.” was once niche goes more continue to push forward mass market, there will be JIM WEBER with more and more Trend I want to go away: concerns about authenticity. CEO, BROOKS digitalization to connect “High-heeled fl ip-fl ops.” We want everyone to feel with our consumers.” RUNNING welcome in this culture, What the shoe industry will and part of that is providing 2020 mantra: “Bring Trend I want to go away: look like in 2030: “Brands authentic products and optimism and positivity to “The trade war on a global will increasingly be using authentic storytelling. people at every turn.” scale and confl icts of their business and their Stadium Goods was founded international trading.” platforms as a force of on the premise of o ering Big Opportunity: “With a premium shopping and the Tokyo Olympic Games selling experience for the CHLOE GOSSELIN coming this summer, we aftermarket, and authenticity have the opportunity to E CA PODUCE PODUCS DESIGNER in all its iterations is at the marshal the inspiration OU E COSCOUS OF core of that mission.” (Stiller) Key challenges: “To keep that sport and running can brick-and-mortar stores bring — to unify people E MPAC AMOE Trend I want to go away: profi table. Consumers are around what makes us the “Pigeonholing. The sneaker clearly indicating that they same.” Chloe osselin industry is getting a lot are looking for new ways better at this, but let’s go to shop. Because of this, we Trend I want to go away: What I will do di erently: good. Comfort will be key, all the way and make sure often hold shopping events “The false assumption that “I will visit even more and sneakers will continue COMPANIES everyone is comfortable and and trunk shows to get a a performance positioning key partners and look to to dominate.” OF able to wear any sneaker chance to meet our girl and in footwear is dead. In fact, invest more in grassroots they want, especially when establish a more sincere in running, performance is moments and events —and it comes to gender. Let’s relationship with her.” timeless!” continue to drive the team understand that in many to help make us more

COURTESY OTHERS: cases women want to wear What I will do di erently: What I will do di erently: digital friendly. Finally, I the same sneakers men “These past few months, “Stay positive, stay healthy will do everything I can to do and vice versa, so let’s I have been addressing and run faster.” continue to put my energy ALL STUART; continue to see more full sustainability in my work into our brand.” size runs in women’s sizing, and that will be my biggest What the shoe industry and marketing and content priority for 2020. We can’t will look like in 2030: What the shoe industry that acknowledge women’s produce products without “Personalized, performance will look like in 2030: contributions to the culture.” being conscious of the footwear will be common “Sustainability will be (Stiller) impact anymore. Even for all who want it. With even more consistent as JOE OUAKNINE PAUL CLIFFORD: MORALES; though Chloe Gosselin new manufacturing companies continue to COMPANIES CHAIRMAN, TITAN

OF What the shoe industry will shoes are handmade in Italy innovations such as reduce the environmental look like in 2030: “If you and are always produced local-for-local assembly, impact on products and INDUSTRIES use the release of the Air in small quantities, I still production cycles will supply chain. Further, 2020 mantra: “To avoid Jordan 1 in 1985 as the birth think we can go further by shrink dramatically. As sustainability will also making some mistakes that of sneaker culture — and yes, anticipating our customers’ well, new design, materials impact the management occurred in 2019. Things ANDREW OUTLER: PHOTOS: COURTESY PHOTOS:

3 are complicated the way largest players and/or those that break through to the from consumer spending and whenever they may they stand. Vigilance and with the most creative and consumer — no time for on luxury footwear to exotic intersect with the product.” unforced errors will be in simple means of production.” small stories.” travel and fi ne dining. The e ect.” economy is strong, but What I will do di erently: What the shoe industry will our spending habits have “As a company, we’ve Key challenges: “Finding look like in 2030: “The real changed. Our job is to bring traditionally played o ense solutions to minimize brands will continue to be them back to shopping by in the spring and defense in online returns and our more consumer focused. creating an experience.” the fall. We’ve been far too government’s fi nal decision Fifty-fi ve percent of the total cautious and constrained about the tari s issue.” footwear business will be Trend I want to go away: “The in the speed by which we direct-to-consumer, and 45% casualization of [dressing]. extend our product range Trend talk: “We are will be brick-and-mortar. No more tracksuits, sweat year-round.” hoping for the return of Authentic brands with real sexy shoes. The demand has purpose and stories will be weakened somehow and the brands of choice.” history tells us it is due to LYDIA “IT’S ABOUT BIG STORIES make a comeback. We will PARK LUIS THAT BREAK THROUGH TO cut unnecessary expenses and do some trimming by CEO, JACK ROGERS THE CONSUMER NO TIME cutting all the fat we don’t Key challenges: need.” “The biggest issues in the FOR SMALL ST O R I E S .” industry right now are - Greg Tunney Overall forecast: “I can only in coordinating e ective hope that brick and mortar inventory management pants and sneakers. I want will make a comeback. with shifting sales channels, the street style trend to What the shoe industry will Without that, I don’t see tari impacts, and disappear as quickly as it look like in 2030: “Over the how we can grow in a managing through shorter came, and see consumers next 10 years, there will be a meaningful way.” full price and longer sales ALISON BERGEN return to caring about huge chasm between brands periods.” their personal style and the with strong consumer CEO, AEROSOLES quality of their clothing and connections and those that Trend I want to go away: Key challenges: “Rising costs footwear.“ are basically shoe labels. “Disposable fashion — it’s of production and online Brands with authenticity still prevalent.” marketing.” who ensure their equity is always managed and What I will do di erently this Trend I want to go away: innovate with great products year: “Never-ending promotions will gain even more “Have more of a direct and sales.” relevance with consumers. relationship with our Retailers and brands who customers through a one-to- What I will do di erently this entertain people will thrive.” one retail approach and on year: “Focus on the highest e-commerce.” quality customer, growing GLENN BARRETT that relationship through loyalty program and other FOUNDER AND CEO, rewards.” DAVID KAHAN ORTHOLITE CEO, BIRKENSTOCK 2020 mantra: “Innovate What the shoe industry to remain relevant. 2020 will look like in 2030: “Less AMERICAS denotes perfect vision —let’s wasteful.” 2020 mantra: hope so.” “At Birkenstock, brand equity is sacrosanct.” Key challenge: “Sorting out the tari situation. We are all Key challenges: challenged with the moving “Retailers relying on NICHOLAS target of global sourcing promotions to drive tra c. KIRKWOOD venues. It will require rapid GREG TUNNEY This model hasn’t served deployment of resources the department store well DESIGNER GLOBAL BRAND to build the required over the last 20 years. It has 2020 mantra: “Be the best component infrastructure to PRESIDENT, HUSH almost killed the specialty version of yourself.”

respond properly.” PUPPIES store apparel channel, yet COMPANIES

it persists. Consumers are Key challenge: “Brexit.” OF What the shoe Key challenge: “Moving from seeking brand engagement. industry will look a traditional manufacturing/ PAULETTE Lululemon is a good business Trend I wish would go away: like in 2030: “We will see wholesale model to a GARAFOLO model. It’s the most crowded “Brexit.” much more emphasis on consumer-driven branded store in any mall and no sale COURTESY OTHERS: sustainability and earth- model — it can’t move fast CEO, PAUL STUART signs.” What I will do di erently: friendly products. Sourcing enough.” 2020 mantra: “It’s going to “Trust my instincts more.” of footwear will be much be the year when the hard Trend I want to go more fractured and balanced Trend I want to go away: work and late nights all away: “The use of the What the shoe industry will around the globe, with “Ugly dad sneakers. Enough come together — when our word omnichannel. It’s look like in 2030: “Vegan, the emphasis on closer-to is enough. Not a great look.” footwear business grows meaningless. If commerce sustainable, comfortable -market manufacturing. from good to great.” is the intent, we all simply — with new technology Manufacturing will be even What I will do di erently: have to ensure we engage infusing product and more dominated by the “It’s all about big stories Key challenge: “The shift the consumer wherever manufacturing.” ALL SIELER; STEFAN KIRKWOOD PHOTOS:

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Dolce & Gabbana men’s logo-mania sneaker FOOTWEAR NEWS HOT TAKE //

ANALYST JANE HALI, CEO OF JANE HALI & JANUARY ASSOCIATES LLC, ON LOGO MANIA: “I’m tired of seeing the consumer advertising for companies by wearing logos. I love when I see a 13, product and I’m not sure who made it. Styling should

stand out — not a logo. [However], small logos that 2020 you can hardly see are fun.” — Sheena Butler-Young

// FOOTWEARNEWS.COM With awards season underway, celebrity stylist Elizabeth Saltzman is on the run. One of her clients, Saoirse Ronan, is having yet another big year for her role in “Little Women,” which has garnered Oscar buzz as she was already Freida Pinto has a nominated for a Golden Globe for role in the upcoming the performance. “The big thing Net ix lm, “Love, with Saoirse is trying di erent Wedding, Repeat” things,” said Saltzman on her red carpet looks this season. “[We used] the time to grow and experiment a little bit with fashion and take her a charity established to help change the way the away from being covered the world values girls, where she also serves as an am- whole time. [Originally], that ising ide bassador. Clarks is extending the group’s message by was part of being protective highlighting Girl Rising stories and sharing a link of her, she was very young and I wanted to let her have e India-born actress and for consumers to donate across its digital channels, her youth. Now we can push humanitarian teamed up with Clarks in addition to a direct corporate donation. it. Let’s shed some of it. And in a mission to help promote equality. “Activism is part of my DNA,” she said. “My that is what’s coming up.” As parents always encouraged it.” However, she em- far as footwear is concerned, BY BARBARA SCHNEIDER-LEVY phasized, helping others should not be dismal. “It Saltzman said Ronan, 25, can wear anything and likes to give should feel fun for you and for someone to receive her height, but it’s not the Actress and social activist Freida Pinto is serious your love and care.” same for client and “Killing about everything she does — including her fashion Pinto has also been a strong voice when it comes to Eve” star Jodie Comer. choices. So, when she joined Clarks as a brand am- diversity in the fi lm industry. “When I came in, there Saltzman said, “She doesn’t SHUTTERSTOCK OTHERS: bassador late last year she already had a personal weren’t roles written specifi cally for me. Today, I have crave it. She wants comfort. I look at designers that may o er history with the brand and that was key. to fi ght for people to think outside the box. If you look something di erent like Nicholas “It was the fi rst pair of comfortable shoes I at the world population, it’s not one color and one Kirkwood, Rupert Sanderson or ALL GOODMAN; owned,” said Pinto, noting that Clarks was among note anymore. If we say art imitates life, why isn’t the Tamara Mellon, who came out the companies early on to o er shoes in her native art we’re putting out imitating life the way we see it?” with a smart heel. And I always look for color.” BERGDORF India to fi t her size 10 ½ foot. “Asian countries don’t As for her fashion style, Pinto likes to keep things

OF — Nikara Johns cater to women with big feet. It was problematic simple and comfortable with a wardrobe dominated for me. I had developed a lot of foot issues since my by jeans, T-shirts and denim jackets. school days when I had to squeeze my feet into a “I try my best to not buy more than I can wear Saoirse Ronan shoe that was one size smaller.” in one year,” she said. “I have all this stu and I will wore Celine The “Slumdog Millionaire” wear the same thing over and over again because to the 2020 actress was also drawn to Clarks I’m comfortable in it. [But for] red carpet gowns, I Golden Globe for its support of Girl Rising, need a heel.” Awards COURTESY & GABBANA: DOLCE COMPANY; OF When model and brand ambassador Johannes Huebl is o -duty, he’s got simple attire: black denim, black t-shirt and white sneakers. “I wear that a lot in the summer and that’s how my friends see me in my o time. Throughout the year, I dress up. This is my comfort [zone],” he told FN. For winter, however, Olivia Palermo’s husband has found a fondness in perfect pleated pants, which show just enough sock. “A gentleman’s wardrobe doesn’t stop with the socks, you have to have nice ones,” he said at the launch of Santoni’s New York boutique, adding, “When I look at the brands that I’m wearing it’s mostly Italian.” - NJ

COURTESY PINTO: PHOTOS: WEEKLY UPS AND DOWNS AND EVERYTHING IN BETWEEN

Australian bushﬁ res Meghan Markle and Hudson’s Bay David Conn appointed Department stores continue to Prince Harry step back Co. reaches deal CEO of Sequential reveal challenging devastate from royal family to go private Brands Group holiday season DTC EVOLUTION

Rothy’s has unconventional textiles. of its shoes. Last month, resonated They’ve also been among the Brown and co-founder Joey strongly with many digitally-native direct-to- Zwillinger invited Amazon millennial consumer brands to break into to “please steal our ap- women physical retail in recent years: proach to sustainability” in Allbirds has 14 stores — half an open letter calling out in the U.S. and the other half the e-commerce giant for 2016 abroad, in China, the U.K. and purportedly copying the co-founder Tim Brown’s native design of Allbirds’ signature The year both New Zealand, among others. The Wool Runners for one of its Allbirds and Rothy’s debuted brand has plans to open 20 more private-label brands. in 2020. Rothy’s — FN’s 2019 While the incident was a Brand of the Year — meanwhile, PR win, it also highlighted a concern some ana- just opened a location in Wash- lysts have expressed about Allbirds, Rothy’s and ington, D.C. (its second after San brands like them: the potential for cannibalization Francisco), and is expanding to by mass-market competitors. More immediate is Los Angeles, New York City and the concern about knockoffs — both brands have Boston this year. It’s also on track filed multiple lawsuits against alleged copycats to double its 2018 sales, which since they launched — though Gildenberg said reached $140 million on 1 million this is par for the course. “The best way to avoid pairs of shoes. copying harming your business is to continue to While the brands’ respective innovate,” he said. trajectories so far have been Rothy’s, for its part, recently debuted its second steep, one challenge both are sure collaboration — tapping Italian designer Marta to face in the coming months Ferri — as well as a Merino wool collection and a and years is how to continue this Chelsea boot for the fall and winter seasons. It also growth while staying true to their has a kids’ line, and while it hasn’t expanded into environmentally-conscious roots. men’s styles yet, some of its more unisex silhou- “Certainly the tailwind they have ettes could have crossover potential.

FOOTWEARNEWS.COM is that consumers are consistently Allbirds, meanwhile, launched socks in // gravitating towards [sustainable] August — entering a competitive field alongside brands,” said Bryan Gildenberg, better-established brands like Bombas, Happy

2020 chief knowledge officer of retail Socks and Stance — and the following month

1 3, at Kantar Consulting. “That appears to be a trend unveiled its first all-weather styles, Mizzles, fea- rather than a fad for a variety of reasons, and ap- turing a water-repellent treatment and a breath- pears to be something that will be a staple of those able, water-resistant layer made with natural

JANUARY Where Do DTC categories going forward.” products. With its already relatively democratic // On the other hand, he said, the process by price point of $95 to $135 per pair, the brand’s Stars Allbirds which the brands make their shoes is likely go- next test will be whether it can democratize NEWS ing to make it harder to lower costs simply by further by releasing products that are “a little and Rothy’s Go ramping up production: “If you’re manufactur- less identifiable with a very specific type of look,” ing something out of easily sourced commodities said Gildenberg. on a giant manufacturing line, it’s pretty easy to As of their most recent funding rounds, Rothy’s FOOTWEAR Next? see how to make more goods cheaper. If you’re had raised $42 million at a valuation of $700 mil- The coming year will be critical hand-making things with raw materials, it’s lion, while Allbirds had raised $77.5 million at a for both brands. harder to provide scale.” reported valuation of $1.4 billion. “These brands And perhaps it’s even more challenging to con- are very well poised for acquisition. Right now, BY HILARY GEORGE-PARKIN tinually meet lofty environmental goals. the larger mass-market brands are trying to find Syama Meagher, founder and CEO of Scaling their foray in the innovation front, and what both It’s no small feat to build a brand that stands Retail, a retail consultancy, noted that it’s diffi- Rothy’s and Allbirds have is something that they out in today’s crowded field of footwear startups. cult for any single company to “be 100% sustain- will want to buy,” Meagher said. Rothy’s and Allbirds have done just that. But for able, according to everyone’s both companies, 2020 is poised to be an inflection standards.” point, testing their staying power for the long run. Allbirds — FN’s 2018 Brand of Allbirds plans to open 20 While they may diverge in terms of aesthet- the Year — has taken the uncon- stores this year ics and core customers, the brands also have a ventional approach of making lot in common. Both are based in San Francisco its raw-material inventions open and launched their first styles in 2016 after source, so other brands (includ- several years of development. Sustainability is ing competitors) can integrate core to their respective missions: Rothy’s uses them into their own products. recycled plastic water bottles for its signature In August 2018, it partnered textile, while Allbirds is a certified B Corp whose with Brazilian petrochemical innovations in raw materials have been arguably company Braskem to launch a COMPANIES OF as impactful as the shoes themselves. They each carbon-neutral, bio-based EVA offer five silhouettes, and their products feature resin made from sugarcane minimal branding, relying instead on color cues rather than petroleum, which (Rothy’s royal blue heel “halo,” for example) and it now uses to make the soles COURTESY PHOTOS:

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Untitled-21 1 1/7/20 4:30 PM Trade shows are exploring new ways to serve their customers in a fast-changing climate

SHOW NOTES BY ERIN E. CLACK In an increasingly challenging and JOHN HERON retailers across all channels.” Conducting business in a traditional manner and asking competitive climate, trade show operators EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, Digital o erings: “The the same questions that were are drilling down on their core mission of FFANY membership pages and asked in the past is a recipe planner application on FFANY. for irrelevance.” connecting brands and buyers. Whether What’s new: “We are shifting org have been revamped to the focus of our association to provide up-to-date contact What buyers need to know: it’s o ering networking events and coordinate common dates for information and showroom “Buyers need to realize that market weeks and represent locations for all member courses of action that brands gathering spaces or creating savvy digital the general interests of our brands and companies.” take may on the surface tools that facilitate communication, members and the New York disrupt traditional norms but marketplace. FFANY is the Economy’s impact: “I am are not necessarily negative. shows are focusing more than ever on main source of information not sure it is the economy that Brands have a responsibility about the showroom locations is impacting our business but to focus internally on viability bringing people together to grow their and places where brands can more so the evolution of our and building brand strength businesses and spark new opportunities. be found conducting business industry. With the growing ﬁ rst and foremost. If they can during the market week. penetration of direct-to- accomplish that then their Another priority is helping retailers FFANY is no longer directly consumer sales, there are attractiveness and ability to involved in the organization fewer traditional buyers perform at retail will only be set themselves apart through unique or administration of any and sellers in the wholesale heightened. Buyers should merchandise assortments by o ering hotel show or general o site environment than ever before. be on the lookout for strong exposition. That aspect We are also seeing a shift in curated new product discovery areas, has been outsourced and the way retailers shop the managed by longtime FFANY market and buy product. special international brand showcases executive Phyllis Rein and her Seasonality is less important new company, FSNYE.” now because for many brands, and emerging trend presentations. Here, product creation is now an the directors of ve of footwear’s leading New brands to see: “We do ongoing enterprise with new not strive to make FFANY the products being rolled out on a ORGANIZATIONS

OF domestic and international events destination for discovering continual basis.” new brands. Rather, we share how they are using their powerful are proud to be a proven What brands need to know: platforms to unite the industry and drive marketplace where the “That the industry and retail established brands conduct space are evolving faster than

COURTESY PHOTOS: the business forward. business with recognized you ever could have imagined.

John Heron Many shows are beeﬁ ng up their special events lineups, from informational seminars to networking opportunities

brands, not brands that will New brands to see: “We to know: “This is their show. LAURA number of Brazilian brands to only kowtow to traditional are proud to say our show So it’s imperative that they the show, including Ipanema, expectations.” is sold out, wall to wall. New drive tra c to their booths by CONWELL Zaxy, Usaﬂ ex, Moema, Petite exhibitors include Camuzares, o ering something impactful, Jolie, Piccadilly, O¦ ine, Cocco, Industry challenges: 10KA, Flower Mountain, J/ whether it’s an event, an O’BRIEN Miami, Shoetherapy, Bottero, “The industry must embrace Slides Men’s and Smidt.” experience or even giveaways. EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, Cartago and So.Si Brazil.” the change taking place. Buyers tend to go where There are surely going to be Hottest categories: booths are crowded. Another THE ATLANTA Hottest category: “The reports throughout 2020 “Casual lifestyle, outdoor, draw for retailers is a unique SHOE MARKET comfort lifestyle brands are about store closings and boots and resort.” o er — for example, for all still the hottest, dominating brands that fail, but there orders placed at the show, What’s new: “With the more than half the space in are also going to be stories Digital o erings: “Our Magic they get extra dating or a increased interest in our our main hall.” of success and retailers and app is truly state-of-the-art. percentage o . Be creative and show, we have added space brands that are thriving in the It has so many elements that incentivize your customers to to accommodate all the ORGANIZATIONS

Digital o erings: “Last OF new environment. Figuring are innovative to a trade show come to you.” new exhibitors.” year, we introduced TASM out how to be a part of the experience. Yo u can fi nd who Capture — our branded photo, future and not mired in the or what you need in a few What buyers need to know: New brands to see: “We video engagement and live past is certainly the biggest short clicks through beautiful “While many larger brands have been working closely casting feature — and our editorial imagery and screens. are shifting more to direct-to- challenge.” with Abicalçados to bring a social media engagement COURTESY PHOTOS: The app can assist you in consumer, retailers should be LESLIE GALLIN navigating the event itself — looking to those brands they think Waze for the show fl oor. can build with and replacing PRESIDENT OF It also enables retailers to those brands whose pricing FOOTWEAR, INFORMA communicate directly with and marketing confl ict with brands, set up appointments, the independent [retailer]. What’s new: “ To kick o access look books and take This o ers the best possible the show and bring together private notes.” opportunity for fi nding quality buyers and sellers, we will brands. There is nowhere else have a welcome night cocktail Economy’s impact: for retailers to have this type of event on Feb. 4 at the Marquee “Unemployment is at its l high-level exposure.” Club in the Cosmopolitan owest level in almost 40 Hotel. Also, due to a shortened years, so the economy is Industry challenges: move-in with the venue not the issue. It’s more that “Understanding the buying (Mandalay Bay Convention retailers need to make a point pattern of the ‘now’ generation Center), we’ve tweaked our to carry di erent product and making great product. Leslie Gallin show hours. On Feb. 5, we will than what the consumer fi nds Also, remembering that the open at 10 a.m. and close at online. Give people a reason to footwear industry has always 7 p.m. On day two, hours are go into your store.” had each other’s backs. We Laura Conwell O’Brien from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m, and on need to keep camaraderie top- day three, 9 a.m. to 4 p.m.” What brands need of-mind.”

SPOTLIGHT ON THE taking place Jan. 14-18 and expanded showrooms venue. There will also be a DAAS ART CNTR — participants can browse in addition to interactive cash drawing where a lucky product in categories ranging attractions such as an indoor winner will receive $500 BY MADELEINE CRENSHAW from men’s and women’s to mini food truck, pop-ups and to spend within the trade western wear. Birkenstock, a photo booth. Additionally, show. Everything is bigger in that spans 3.1 million square Børn, Emu Australia and buyers will have a chance to DMC also o ers Texas, and the same goes feet, the center is home to Lemon Jelly will be among the experiment with patterns, KidsWorld, a baby and for the Dallas Market Center, one of the largest footwear footwear brands exhibiting textures and colors via children’s show, in March headquartered in the heart presentations in the U.S. new collections. the Fashion Inspiration and June, as well as a of the city’s Design District. At the upcoming Apparel This year’s January stations that will be installed summer run of its Apparel & With a sprawling complex & Accessories Market — market will feature new throughout the atrium of the Accessories Market in June.

reo ssue

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FN_HAD_TRADESHOW_V3.indd 2 11/18/19 5:15 PM Untitled-28 1 1/9/20 1:59 PM was never higher. Based on of the fair within the area of feedback, we will be extending fashion shows and seminars the depth of our exhibitor in Hall 1. [It will serve as] a and retailer engagement via central meeting place that short infomercials, live video will o er Micam’s audience casts and photo sessions a particular vision of the throughout the show. Our product — showcasing the goal is to help attendees newest, most innovative reap the benefi ts of our rich and technological concepts social media library to create — as well as new trends unique content for themselves such as the sustainability of that they can use across all production processes and platforms to maximize their the evolution of distribution investment in our show and channels. In addition, after to extend their own social a promising start during our media reach and engagement September 2019 edition, we post-show.” will bring back Players District, dedicated to sports and Economy’s impact: “With outdoor footwear.” the trade war still impending, retailers will be cautious New brands to see: “We New digital tools are in their buying. However, I can’t share specifi cs yet, helping brands and believe retailers will come to but Micam will feature the buyers connect both on Atlanta ready to buy and see great brands of Made in Italy and o the show fl oor new product.” together with the best global labels. Buyers certainly will What brands need not be disappointed.” to know: “There is a lot of more than a beautiful and everyone maximize their time. competition out there, so it’s Hottest categories: “Sports MARISA comfortable accessory. In a Also, satellite registration very important that exhibiting and outdoor footwear are competitive global market, NICHOLSON stations have been added to companies start planning going through a period of [brands must o er not neighboring hotels (the Hyatt early, prepare, schedule continuous and promising only] innovative styles and SVP AND Regency and Sheraton) so appointments and follow up.” development. We do not think materials, but also attention SHOW DIRECTOR, attendees can pick up badges it is a fl eeting trend, but a real to sustainability and strong before the show.” market orientation toward a OUTDOOR RETAILER What buyers need to know: customization opportunities. “Buyers can expect to see di erent vision of footwear [It will be exciting to discover] What’s new: “We’ve Economy’s impact: “We’ve an increase in international that is changing many of at our upcoming event how combined the winter shows seen record retail sales exhibitors. They need to take the rules of the game in our brands have addressed and brought the outdoor and throughout the holiday the time to shop the entire industry, particularly with these features and what snow industries together season, and the early snowfall show to familiarize themselves respect to the promotion and new trends emerge.” under one roof for Outdoor has helped drive sales. It all with all new brands. Shoppers distribution of new products.” + Snow Show. Outdoor and leads to a strong end to 2019 have a growing desire for What buyers need snow brands and buyers will and an optimistic outlook for newness and are always Digital o erings: “We can’t to know: “The market has all be in one place, making it 2020. Ye t the impact of tari s on the hunt for the new reveal too much, but from changed profoundly, and easy to discover everything on outdoor gear, apparel and hot brands.” mid-January you will fi nd the competition has grown. So that’s new in the marketplace. footwear still weighs heavily calendar and details related to we are encouraging buyers to Venture Out, our popular on brands and retailers alike. Industry challenges: “The Micam X on our website.” be ready to look around, get zone that highlights modern While both weather and U.S./China trade policies will out of the box and create new outdoor trends, will have the evolving trade policy continue to top the headlines. Economy’s impact: “In connections with companies reusable turnkey booths built remain uncertain, outdoor Another ongoing issue is the Italy, our sector is growing that can o er fresh products from sustainable materials.” participation numbers changing retail landscape. thanks to export. Certainly, that will excite consumers. continue to rise. And recent Digital businesses continue to at the international level, Buyers should embrace New brands to see: reports on the outdoor grow, and many brands have there are problems with the opportunities our “Camper, Royal Canadian, recreation economy back gone direct-to-consumer. This some countries, but the world event o e r s .” Thorogood and SockGuy are up the fact that the outdoor has created challenges for footwear market still seems new. G.H. Bass is returning industry is a major driver of traditional retailers, but brick- resilient and able to evolve Industry challenges: after a hiatus.” economic growth.” and-mortar stores are still without being imprisoned “Sustainability is the very vital to our industry.” by more complex situations challenge of the moment. It Hottest categories: “We What brands need for the development of the is a movement that arises continue to see sustainability to know: “With outdoor and SIRO BADON market.” from a growing sensitivity and innovation leading the snow together in one place, it PRESIDENT, MICAM among both producers way in product development. creates greater value for all in What brands need and consumers regarding The two go hand-in-hand. attendance. There are more What’s new: “We will launch to know: “Today, when ethical and economic issues, Consumers are gravitating ways to collaborate, network a new space, Micam X, that it comes to footwear, environmental protection and toward sustainable brands and strengthen business. It’s will characterize the heart consumers are looking for respect for workers. This new and products, which is helping a chance to connect with new vision makes it necessary to drive change in development. retailers and buyers.” look beyond the established Cleaner manufacturing production dynamics and processes, repurposed What buyers need requires greater investments materials and more organic to know: “[The combined in materials, technologies and fi bers are making their way shows] mean there are more knowledge in line with new into every component.” brands and products to production standards and see. It’s a great opportunity market demands. Without Digital o erings: to discover new ways to production lines able to “Our mobile app — now expand store o erings, and support the changes, it will be downloadable via a QR an e¢ cient place to have impossible to be competitive.” code — is one of the best in-person conversations. ORGANIZATIONS OF resources for navigating the The late January timeframe show. It includes the fl oor also allows buyers to make plan, exhibitor list, education better informed purchasing and event lineups, show decisions after knowing their

specials and more to help holiday sell-through.” COURTESY PHOTOS:

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APPLY TO ATTEND OR EXHIBIT MAGICFASHIONEVENTS.COM Who’s Next followed by the Outdoor Retailer Jan. 17-20 Innovation Awards ceremony on Porte de Versailles, Paris Jan. 30.

Boston Shoe Travelers India International Jan. 19-20; March 1-2 Leather Fair DoubleTree by Hilton Hotel, Feb. 1-3 Manchester, N.H. Chennai Trade Centre, Chennai, India Project Jan. 19-21 FFANY Javits Center, New York Feb. 3-7; June 1-5 Feb. 5-7 Shoe expo venues & member Mandalay Bay Convention showrooms, New York Center, Las Vegas March 24-25 The Materials Show Shibuya, Shibuya Ku, To kyo Feb. 5-6 Hynes Convention Center, Première Vision Boston Jan. 20-21 Feb. 12-13 Center 415, New York Oregon Convention Center, Feb. 11-13 Portland Ore. Paris Nord Villepinte, Paris Footwear Sourcing Liberty Fairs at Magic Jan. 20-22 (Men’s) Feb. 4-7 Pier 94, New York Mandalay Bay Convention Feb. 4-6 (Men’s & Women’s) Center, Las Vegas Sands Expo Center, Las Vegas O ering merchandise direct from factories around the world, Lineapelle the Informa-run show will open Jan. 21 one day in advance of Magic’s Ham Yard Hotel, London other marketplace events. Jan. 29-30 Metropolitan Pavilion, New York Magic Feb. 19-20 Feb. 5-7 Fiera Milano, Milano-Rho, Italy Mandalay Bay Convention Center, Las Vegas Shot Show While the Las Vegas Convention Jan. 21-24 Center undergoes a major Sands Expo Center, Las Vegas renovation, UBM’s Magic marketplace will temporarily ISPO be held at the Mandalay Bay Jan. 26-29 Convention Center. Its show Neue Messe München, Munich, lineup includes FN Platform, Germany Footwear Sourcing, Project, WWDMagic and Children’s Club. SHOW Bluegrass Buyers Market Jan. 26-27 FN Platform Embassy Suites Lexington, Feb. 5-7 Lexington, Ky. Mandalay Bay Convention BUSINESS Center, Las Vegas A ROUNDUP OF TRADE SHOWS Outdoor Retailer FN Platform will host a SLATED FOR THE FIRST HALF OF 2020. Jan. 16-18; June 25-27 Jan. 29-31; June 23-25 three-day business forum Fortezza da Basso, Colorado Convention Center, where buyers and sellers can As the fall ’20 market kicks off, FN presents Florence, Italy Denver experience networking events, its guide to the key shows, both domestic and This month’s fair will bring engaging seminars and oor international, slated for the months ahead. Northwest Shoe Travelers together the outdoor and installations from four di erent Jan. 17-19 snow industries in a larger, categories including Fast ExpoRivaSchuh Dallas Apparel & Saint Paul River Center, combined showcase. A packed Fashion, a trend-driven area Jan. 11-14; June 13-16 Accessories Market St. Paul, Minn. event schedule will include aimed at the millennial and Riva del Garda Exhibition Jan. 14-18; March 24-27; panels covering timely industry Gen Z marketplace. ORGANIZATION

Center, Riva del Garda, Italy June 23-26 Tranoï topics including sustainability. OF Dallas World Trade Center, Jan. 17-19; Feb. 28-March 2 There will also be a series of MOMAD & ShoesRoom Couromoda Dallas Palais de la Bourse, Paris networking breakfasts and Feb. 6-8 Jan. 13-15 March 26-30 happy hours. The opening-night Feria de Madrid,

Expo Center Norte, São Paulo Pitti Bimbo Shanghai, Location TBD cocktail party will be on Jan. 29, Madrid COURTESY PHOTOS:

PHOTOS: COURTESY OF ORGANIZATION FN SPEAD SINGLETEMPLATE.indd 1 The Chicago Shoe Market practices andtrends. Hard Rock Stadium, Feb. the Americas Shoe Marketof Mich. Embassy Feb. Michigan ShoeMarket Embassy Feb. latest, products thatshowcase the will feature guest speakers and the futureof dedicatedto Micam willdebutanew event To Fiera MilanoMilano-Rho, Feb. Micam Fiera Milano, Feb. p.m. cocktail party onFeb.15 from 6 ASM Cobb GalleriaCentre, Feb. The kids’ Javits Center, Feb. Children’s Club Javits Center, Feb. Coterie/Sole Commerce Pier 94, Feb. Cabana/Capsule Toronto Congress Centre, Feb. Toronto ShoeShow Olympia London, Feb. Pure Mipel workshop at7:30 a.m. Associationhost will the NationalShoeRetailers e The Atlanta ShoeMarket summer marketplace. returnto this year, roughly 80new exhibitors. brands willbefeatured, winter inNew York. orts onasinglesupershow this ringinits 89th anniversary, to 9-11 9-11 23-24; 22-24 19-20 15-17 10-12 16-19 16-19 11-13 11-13 willhave its usualcasino and London

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Untitled-16 1 1/7/20 3:55 PM From Left VASQUE Breeze WT GTX hiker for men featuring Vibram FN STYLE MegaGrip outsoles, Gore-Tex waterproof membranes and 200g of insulation

LOWA Nabucco Evo GTX men’s boot with Gore-Tex Partelana lining, Vibram Arctic Grip Trac 2 outsoles and the brand’s DynaPU midsoles FOOTWEAR NEWS // JANUARY 13, 2020

// FOOTWEARNEWS.COM

FOR FALL ʼ20, THE INDUSTRYʼS BIGGEST BRANDS EQUIP ALL TRAIL RUNNERS, COLD-WEATHER BOOTS, HIKERS AND MORE WITH RUGGED TECHED OUTSOLES, COZY LININGS, AGGRESSIVE LACING SYSTEMS MARKET EDITOR PETER VERRY AND OTHER TOP-TIER STYLE DIRECTOR COMPONENTS TO SHANNON ADDUCCI KEEP EXPLORERS IN PHOTOGRAPHED BY OUT LUCAS ZAREBINSKI NATURE LONGER.

From Left COLUMBIA Facet 30 OutDry technical trail shoe for women with the brand’s OutDry breathable waterproofing, speed lacing system and proprietary Omni-Grip traction design

HOKA ONE ONE Women’s Torrent 2 trail runner with the brand’s Profly midsoles, marbled sticky rubber outsoles and engineered mesh uppers with recycled polyester fibers

SALOMON Wildcross trail running women’s shoe with tech such as grippy Contagrip outsoles and foot-holding Dreamtex TPU mesh wings RESOURCES HALLEY AT RYAN SHARON BY STYLING PROP

28 FN STYLE RESOURCES HALLEY AT RYAN SHARON BY STYLING PROP

29 FN STYLE FOOTWEARNEWS.COM //

2020 13, JANUARY // NEWS FOOTWEAR

From Left CHACO Chillos x New Belgium Brewing collab for women and men with gender-specific Luvseat EVA midsoles and high-abrasion EVA outsoles

30 FOOTWEAR NEWS // JUNE 3, 2019 // FOOTWEARNEWS.COM 31

technology, midsole cushioned Olympus 4 trail ALTRA Max with the brand’s men shoe for and outsoles MegaGrip Vibram uppers mesh engineered InnerFlex

cush-

linings, runner featuring men’s Left From DANNER 2650 Trail Gore-Tex breathable insoles OrthoLite ioned open-cell 460 outsoles Vibram and FN STYLE

BEARPAW Lechamois women’s cold weather boot with removable wool blend Poron insoles, NeverWet waterproof treatment and faux fur collars FOOTWEARNEWS.COM //

2020 13, JANUARY // NEWS FOOTWEAR

32 ecoTWX® Shoe lining made Renewable and Naturally and Invasive algae Outsoles collection with ecoTWX® biodegradable organically is harvested made from made from material and natural fiber uppers tanned leathers from lakes for an eco-friendly 2.5 Million a 50/50 bamboo made from Merino dyed using sustainable rice husk plastic bottles. charcoal blend. sheep wool. vegetable matter. midsoles. blend.

We are taking responsibility for the environment, are you? We are committed to doing our part to save the planet by creating products from recycled plastic, agricultural waste, and natural resources, while at the same time, aiding in the reforestation of the troubled tree populations in the United States. We pledge to be carbon neutral by 2020, promoting a greener earth. To learn more about all of our sustainability efforts, visit twistedx.com/sustainability. 6.6 MILLION SHOPPERS PREFER TO BUY NOW, PAY LATER WITH US

Increase conversion and average order value. Acquire new customers. Join our network of 42,500 global retail partners.

Connect with us at [email protected] to schedule an in-person meeting at the upcoming Outdoor Retailers show.

Untitled-26 1 1/8/20 5:27 PM FIRM GRIP Why Vibram is e pushing for sustainability and new products. 36

CITY SLICKERS How Keen is looking to expand its audience in the U.S. 40 SHOEListOF THE WEEK Q&A GOOD TASTE UP CLOSE FIVE QS

S T W FOOTWEAR

WASTE NOT NEWS // WANT NOT JANUARY Mother Nature should be pleased with the Agility 13,

Synthesis 2 Undyed trail 2020 runner from Merrell. Aside // from recycled elements such FOOTWEARNEWS.COM as the laces and breathable mesh lining, the vegan-friendly style is made without dyes, which saves water and energy during the manufacturing process. The performance look is also equipped with several proprietary technologies including mountain-grade Quantum Grip rubber outsoles and lightweight foam midsole cushioning. COMPANIES OF COURTESY OTHERS: ALL CHINSEE; MERRELL: GEORGE PHOTOS: FOOTWEAR NEWS // JANUARY 13, 2020 // FOOTWEARNEWS.COM LIST 3 company’s future,which includes 2018,in October isreshapingthe brandchief o Gamberini, whotookoverasglobal outdoor industry. inthe outsoles remainastaple footwear innovation, andits worked tobecome aforerunnerin For How PROGRESS FORWARD onitslaurels.Fabrizionot resting leader,marketplace thecompany is By and innovative products. greater pushfor sustainability company’s future with a Gamberini, Peter asa Although established morethan100years,Vibram has Vibram’s leader, Q&A Verry isshapingthe

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PHOTOS: COURTESY OF COMPANY JOIN US IN CONGRATULATING SHOE SHOW, INC.’S

AND LEADERSHIP IN THE FOOTWEAR INDUSTRY

FN_AD_SHOE SHOW_V2.indd 2 1/9/20 1:56 PM Untitled-29 1 1/9/20 2:07 PM LIST GOOD TASTE

Drakeford and her businesses have more than 40,000 followers MY SUSTAINABILITY GOALS on Instagram FOR 2020: “Redefining sustainability to be more deeply enriched into regenerative thought and giving agency to black and brown indigenous communities who were inherently sustainable.”

BIGGEST MISCONCEPTION CONCERNING SUSTAINABILITY: “Most people are already sustainable in various ways and don’t even know it, such as reusing a baggy or washing aluminum they already had or reusing a jar.”

WHAT MOTIVATES ME: “Affirmations from my community, studying the work of my ancestors and the beauty of nature itself.”

HOW FASHION CAN FUEL SUSTAINABILITY: “Fashion is one of the most political forms of communication and is culturally rich. It can be used as a vehicle to create political change on various fronts.”

PEOPLE I LOOK UP TO: “Artists, youth activists, published authors and everyday people GOOD who are working locally to TASTE create circularity among FOOTWEARNEWS.COM

// themselves.”

2020 13, importance to both street culture for the planet and social change.” and the environment, making it an Because of their aligned values,

JANUARY ideal partner to help carry out her Timberland will feature Drakeford

// DOMINIQUE DRAKEFORD mission. “They are about real people in the second season of “Nature Why Timberland and the ethical style influencer are a great and real change just like I am. Needs Heroes,” which rolls out NEWS match in the push for a sustainable-minded future. A big thing is the creative Jan. 23. She is one of six new messaging around that,” activists included.

By Peter Verry SMITH Drakeford told FN. “Timberland does FOOTWEAR Timberland has recruited eco- tor Dominique Drakeford. The New a great job friendly leaders to support its York native, who is the chief curator of creating sustainability initiatives in the past, of the blog Melanin & Sustainable messaging across most recently with its “Nature Needs Style and co-founder of the organiza- generations, across Heroes” campaign featuring commu- tion Sustainable Brooklyn (which various people, and TIMOTHY TIMBERLAND; BOTTOM:

nity-oriented environmental hosts speaking engagements and is using that to fight OF activists. Since its debut in Septem- volunteering opportunities), is fo- ber 2019, the brand continues to cused on including black and brown Drakeford co-founded engage with local heroes, including indigenous communities in the eco- Sustainable Brooklyn one of its newest ambassadors: eco- friendly conversation. She teamed alongside attorney

conscious style advocate and educa- with Timberland because of its Whitney McGuire COURTESY TOP: PHOTOS:

38 NEW Marketing LABS Opportunity

FN LABS is a one-stop shop, curating features that Footwear live across FN’s print and digital platforms via: l Premium Story-Telling News Labs l Exclusive Business Insights and Research l Custom Features, including Executive Q&A’s FN LABS is our newly-launched in-house content and Product Launches studio, dedicated to the creation of engaging, l Op-Eds informative content that is designed to elevate l In-Depth Reporting brands, companies and retailers in the footwear industry and marketplace. l Produced Video

CASE STUDY:

Aetrex’s new Fall collection mixes TECH TALKS: Larry Schwartz, technology and style. The Production SPONSORED CEO of Aetrex. Journey of a 3-D EXECUTIVE Q&A: Printed Orthotic LARRY SCHWARTZ It begins with a foot scan. The Aetrex Albert scanner consists of 5,000 CEO of Aetrex Larry Schwartz discusses how innovations in gold plated barometric sensors, 960 technology can separate the great from the good in footwear. LEDS and receptors, and 18 cameras. It uses 256 degrees of pressure, Aetrex has been involved in to make educated product suggestions, which gets translated into a complex building technology for over increase conversion rates, grow pressure map of that individual’s foot. 15 years. What are the biggest store productivity, improve inventory The Albert scan data is then trans- advances you’ve achieved management, and reduce ecommerce ferred to the EOS production facility in that time? returns. Retailers can also utilize data in real time where it’s converted into a Larry Schwartz: Three of the biggest capture to help build ongoing customer 3-D CAD drawing incorporating vari- advances we’ve achieved to date relationships and loyalty by sending ous geometries that match precisely are realized in our Albert Operating thank you emails and personalized to the customer’s scan and under System. The first is computer vision retargeting alerts. 3-D Printed Orthotics, the material is foot data. The geometric shapes are technology, which allow customers recyclable and gets incorporated back designed and engineered to alleviate to view a 3-D model of their foot What is the customer benefit? into the production process. pressure or provide support to each and receive measurements, such as LS: In addition to an engaging store Aetrex is really a designated area of the foot. For length, width, arch height and instep. experience, consumers benefit from the What can your customer always instance, softer structures might be technology company The second is the AI component opportunity to learn more about their expect from Aetrex products? used where a foot has more pressure, which uses machine learning to help feet than ever before in a 3-D format, that happens to LS: Aetrex is committed to providing the to relieve pain. retailers get the right fit the first time. including their size, length, instep, width, best possible footwear and orthotics The CAD drawing is then sent to make foot scanners, The third advancement would be 3-D arch height, foot pressure, and arch to keep people healthy, comfortable, and the 3-D printer and developed from printing. Our new 3-D Printed Orthotics type, in under one minute. Finding the orthotics and pain-free. Of course, we recognize the the ground up. We’ve partnered with utilizes Additive Manufacturing to right fit along with orthotics leads to our importance of fashion, but we try never EOS, the global market leader in footwear” produce a truly custom orthotic that main goal which is to provide comfort, to lose sight of the fact that our brand is industrial 3-D printing, to manufac- is engineered based on the unique alleviate pain and to help reduce the all about health and comfort. ture our 3-D Printed Orthotics. The —LARRY SCHWARTZ pressure point data collected from our likelihood of injuries. 3-D Printed Orthotics are made in Albert scanner; a completely different ensure an integrated experience. Some How has your technology story the U.S.A. in their hi-tech facility process from traditional custom Yo u continually update and brands utilize broad collaborations to translated in the new Fall based in Texas. Scanning the Future orthotics production. develop your existing technology. bring scanning technologies to market. collections? What is new about Why is this so important and what Initially this process may seem easier this Fall line? What does this background in impact does the latest Albert because they aren’t handling the back LS: We’ve put a lot of our technology technology add to the larger upgrade have? end but, over time, broad collaborations learning and data insights into our of Footwear Aetrex brand? LS: In this business, you need to stay prove to be harder to evolve. We are able products. We’ve really expanded LS: Aetrex is really a technology fresh and evolve. Think about all of the to streamline the process by developing our Fall footwear line and it’s fair to Achieving the best footwear fit possible means using the latest technologies company that happens to make foot apps on your phone and how many updates and launching them seamlessly say it’s the strongest, most fashion scanners, orthotics and footwear. We updates you receive. We continue with the same technology team. forward in our history. Our Fall 2019 on the market. Luckily, Aetrex is an expert at building both. have a full-time team of 17 developers to challenge ourselves to improve Footwear line is designed with a new, across a variety of disciplines including our programs and provide newness You’ve just launched a new 3-D removable footbed with our well-known 3-D printing and CAD engineering, and authentic in-store technology printed custom orthotic. What does Aetrex Orthotics arch support and and fit, a deep understanding of the foot and seamlessly into its product and stay at the allowing us to act quickly and nimbly experiences for our customers. this product provide that previous our proprietary UltraSky™ injected itself is paramount. When Aetrex launched forefront of a constantly-evolving market. in addressing needs in the market Our latest software update, Albert 3.0, orthotics couldn’t? EVA for extreme cushioning, shock its first foot scanner, the iStep, in 2002, it was And the company is happy to share these and focusing on product innovation. allows retailers to order Aetrex custom LS: With our new 3-D printed custom attenuation, and durability. the first to bring foot scanning technology tools with retailers throughout the footwear We believe we have more technology 3-D printed Orthotics directly from orthotic, Aetrex is able to translate to consumer markets. Today, Aetrex offers a industry. Aetrex scanners and accompany- capability than other company in our an Albert scanner in store. The program complete foot scan data into an orthotic What is next for Aetrex in 2019 – more complete foot analysis than ever before ing software have been adopted by thou- industry under $1 billion in sales. update also displays an enhanced 3-D that better matches an individual’s and beyond? with its Albert scanner, which includes 18 sands of retailers across the globe including experience, layered orthotic views, one’s foot for more total support. The entire LS: We’re committed to staying in or over 70 years, Aetrex has different cameras to capture every possible New Balance, Red Wing, due to the elevated The Albert 3-D Scanner is one FDS (Foot Differentiating Score), and process takes under two weeks, from front of technology and making the been dedicated to advancements in foot angle of the foot. retail experience they provide. By allowing of Aetrex’s most successful 3-D printing zones. scan to receipt of the product. Retailers scanning experience turn-key and Fhealth and comfort. Today technology forms It’s the key learnings from foot scanning customers insight into their feet’s individual products. What makes it so benefit from a product that requires no accessible for all. We’ll continue to the underlying foundation for all it does. From that helps the brand inform the design and characteristics, the scanners can ensure that valuable to retailers? Your technology is all built in- inventory, offers high margins and no develop our suite of products and its earliest advances in foot wellness products manufacturing practices for its footwear col- the right size gets purchased and offer spe- LS: The program creates a unique, house. What influence does this markdowns, is season-less, and provides hope to get better at telling our story to the recent launch of its custom 3-D printed lections across casual, dress and athletic styles cific product recommendations. theater-like experience in store that have on your operations? consumer satisfaction and loyalty. and raising overall awareness for the custom orthotics, the company has been a that all adhere to Aetrex’s standards of com- With 17 developers working in the tech- can’t be replicated online, keeping LS: Most people aren’t aware that There is also a sustainable element; benefits of foot health. We’re always consistent source of innovation and contin- fort, while remaining fashion forward. All nology department, Aetrex is committed to customers engaged and in-store Aetrex makes its own hardware and 3-D printing creates a reduction of pushing ourselves to innovate and are ues to introduce new tools to ensure better fit hardware and software is built and main- breaking new ground on foot comfort. The 3-D Printed Orthotics are created longer. The Albert OS enables retailers software. This gives us the ability to waste and, in the case of Aetrex’s very excited for 2019 and beyond. and better comfort. tained in-house, which means that Aetrex is 3-D printed custom orthotic is just the latest in from Albert scanner data. To create footwear with the best support able to incorporate new technology quickly a history – and future – of innovation.

18 19 For more information about sponsored opportunities, please contact Sandi Mines at [email protected]

FNLABS_AETREX.indd All Pages Tech Evolution 2/13/19 11:10 AM Aetrex put innovation front and center by sharing its latest advances in orthotic technology.

THE POWER OF CONTENT

FOR ADVERTISING INFORMATION, PLEASE CONTACT DEBORAH B. BARON, ACCOUNT DIRECTOR AT 212 256 8118 OR [email protected]

FN_FNLABS.inddUntitled-28 1 2 8/2/191/9/20 11:06 2:02 AMPM LIST UP CLOSE

sent themselves,” Rankin said. This year, Keen will bring the types of product carried by key Japanese boutiques such as Beams and Mita Sneakers to the states. This OSE includes style-driven colorways speciﬁ c to the region of its Uneek, Newport, Yogui and Shanti silhouettes, among others. Although these models are available in outdoor retailers, the Japanese iterations will OUTSIDE not be stocked by these accounts. Instead, they will be o ered to top-tier boutiques. Rankin said Keen is targeting industry leaders such as INFLUENCE Blends and Atmos New York. Outdoor player Keen has fashion-forward Rankin likened the distribution plan to how major sneaker brands segment product, positioning in Japan. Now it's trying to Keen's new target where the same model will be seen in di erent consumer sits at replicate it stateside. colorways and material makeups across the intersection By Peter Verry a variety of retailers. of active fashion, Although Keen is clear on the consumer it sustainability and innovation Keen has established itself in the U.S. as a would like to attract, earning their trust won’t reputable footwear brand in the outdoor space. be easy. However, this year, the Portland, Ore.-based “You can’t just get into streetwear. You can’t company has its sights set on city dwellers. just be something without being something to will launch an online experience in April to To attract this audience, which has long the people,” Rankin said. “It’s a space where showcase its product and direction, distribute been foreign to the label, it will use insights culture is important.” the line by the end of May and appear at key from its burgeoning business in Japan. Keen To ingratiate itself industry events such as Liberty Fairs Las Vegas senior brand manager Stephanie Rankin said with this consumer, in February. COMPANY

its positioning abroad is far di erent than it is Rankin said Keen “This will show people in the U.S. who OF domestically. might only know us as an outdoor brand how “Over there, it’s a lot more style-driven with a Men's Keen Yogui for other people would wear this,” she said. “We’re mix of festival fashion. Japanese fans are unique spring '20 not trying to change [our audience], we’re just

to how they like to dress, how they like to repre- trying to invite more people in.” COURTESY PHOTOS:

FN 0113 1/2 page 41.indd 1 1/8/20 6:11 PM LIST FIVE QS

a lot of time and money on their equipment as with the best [companies] in the industry.” 05 You’ve already tapped BMX star Nigel well, so that will be about three cleaners. Your Sylvester as an ambassador. What is your cellphone is the dirtiest device that you carry. 04 How do you plan to win consumers over? strategy for brand faces? We believe there's an interesting opportunity to “There are two sides to the coin. One is our “They need to resonate with the values go after tech care.” distribution in order to gain visibility so we’re trying to create. We believe an people start seeing us at retail. The second active lifestyle fi ts the brand we’re trying 02 How will you hit your 100% part is brand marketing: the way we’re to build. There needs to be a large passion 05 sustainability goal? launching the brand, how we activate the for a sustainable point of view or a fashion- E S “We’re trying to fi nd a balance between brand. There’s a large piece around digital sneaker point of view. We’re looking putting the best product out there while and a push around making sure our in-store for music ambassadorships, sports being as sustainable as possible. For us, presence is spot on. And last but not least, ambassadorships. For the U.S., it’s NBA 100% sustainable means having 0% waste the PR side is important in combination driven and for Europe, it’s soccer driven. ARTHUR VAN against 100% functionality. Together with the with some of the brand ambassadors There are a few more coming in the [next] suppliers we’re working with, our hope is to we’re signing.” six months.” succeed with the goal by 2023. Most of the DER KROFT solutions we’re using are sustainable. For The CEO and owner of instance, we use biodegradable oils foils All DFNS products for our bamboo cleaning wipes and carbon are water-based, sustainable care brand DFNS negative tubes made from sugar cane for and a majority are talks the December launch and our footwear cleaner. There are certain biodegradable how he plans to secure a wide products that are already getting there but the optimal thing is to become truly consumer base. biodegradable.” By Peter Verry 03 What is your retail strategy? 01 How do you defi ne your product range? “On the wholesale side, we’re looking at Tier “We launched in three categories: protect, 0 and Tier 1 independents, plus department with products around waterproofi ng; a stores. So, it’s better-best streetwear category around cleaning; and the refresh independents, fashion independents,

COMPANY category, which is focused on the apparel side department stores and our distribution OF of the business. We’ve got one more product ends at the Foot Lockers of the world. launching in February that’s under protect, Care is an ‘add-on’ business and a way where we’re going after the bag business. The to extend the customer journey for our next big category is in Q3 when we go after retail and brand partners. Our strategy will tech care. We feel the same customer spends include strong branded partner-programs COURTESY PHOTOS:

FN SPEAD SINGLE TEMPLATE.indd 1 1/8/20 5:32 PM SHOWING P I C K WHO’S BOSS Billy Porter continued his sartorial streak on Tuesday at the premiere of his latest ﬁ lm, “Like A Boss,” in Coach platform shoes and a Gucci x Dapper Dan outﬁ t. The actor, who attended the FN Achievement Awards last month, revealed that his red carpet rise is “not an accident,” but rather an extension of what he’s always done. FOOTWEARNEWS.COM //

2020 13, JANUARY // NEWS FOOTWEAR

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