Agilit É Beaut É Rochet

a special edition of

26 big thinkers reimagining tomorrow

what’s next in the world of well-being

influencer 3.0: beyond human

t h e i n n o v a t i o n i s s u e a g i l i t é b e a u t é r o c h e t

How Lubomira rochet is Driving L’oréaL’s DigitaL revoLution

629_BEAUTYINC_COVER.indd 1 6/20/18 5:19 PM B:20.25” T:20” S:19.25”

® CENTELLA ASIATICA, THE LEGENDARY PLANT KNOWN FOR ITS REPAIRING PROPERTIES.

REPAIRS THE SKIN BARRIER B:12.25” S:11.25” T:12”

STRENGTHENS SKIN TO HELP RESIST FUTURE SIGNS OF AGING. IT’S NOT A LEGEND, IT’S A NEW WAY TO FIGHT WRINKLES.

DERMATOLOGIST TESTED GENTLE ON SENSITIVE SKIN

FRAGRANCE FREE • PARABEN FREE

[ CENTELLA ASIATICA, ALSO KNOWN AS TIGER GRASS ]

LEGEND HAS IT THAT TIGERS ROLLED AGAINST THIS UNIQUE PLANT TO HELP THEIR SKIN RECOVER FROM BATTLE. WHEN FORMULATED FOR THE FACE, HELPS REPAIR THE SKIN BARRIER TO RESIST VISIBLE SIGNS OF AGING.

Beauty Inc Full-Page and Spread Template.indd 2 6/15/18 4:37 PM FS:9.5625” FS:9.5625” F:10” F:10”

Ad #: M17SK017C_R1 Bleed: 20.25” x 12.25” AD: Rachel Leibson Headline: Revitalift Cicacream Trim: 20” x 12” CW: None Visual: Tiger with products Live: 19.25” x 11.25” CD: Martha Brooks Space/Color: Spread 4/C Gutter: 0.0625” each side AP: -- Publication: Beauty Inc PP: Frances Espinal Project #: 13168 Document Name: SGT_M17SK017C_R1_01.indd AQR Retouch #: None Document Path: CPNY:ME Production:Loreal:Loreal_Production:SK:Magazine:M17SK017_CicacreamSpread:Santiago:S- Studio QA Client: L’OREAL GT_M17SK017C_R1_01.indd Division: L’OREAL USA Font Family: Helvetica Neue (65 Medium, 55 Roman, 45 Light; Type 1; OK), Gotham (Book, Bold, Medium, Light; Type 1; Proofreader Product: Revitalift (SK) OK), Trade Gothic (Bold Condensed No. 20; Type 1; OK) Job #: 10963152 Ink Name: CMYK Art Director Print/Export Time: 6-15-2018 3:46 PM Link Name: CNY_PR10377_RV_CICA _M17SK017A_R2_V3.psd (CMYK; 578 ppi; Up to Date; 103.64%), CNY_PR010377_ CopyWriter Print Scale: 100% tigre_cicacream.tif (CMYK; 396 ppi; Up to Date; 75.66%), CNY_PR10377_fleur_cream_cicacream_s_MRG.psd (CMYK; User Name: Erick.Wilson 990 ppi, -991 ppi; Up to Date; 30.29%, -30.29%), CNY_PR10377_fleur_dp_cicacream_s_MRG.psd (CMYK; 760 ppi; Acct Exec

Slug Name: BEAUTY MagNwp Proof #: 1 Up to Date; 39.45%), ST_WorthIt_Rewards_V2.ai (Up to Date; 23.89%), 2017_logo_loreal_paris_n100.ai (Up to Date; Release QA PM: Frances Espinal 113.33%), Revitalift_Cicacream_0_100_75_4_R.ai (Up to Date; 297.19%) InDesign Version: CC 2018 Print Prod

Beauty Inc B:20.25” T:20” S:19.25”

® CENTELLA ASIATICA, THE LEGENDARY PLANT KNOWN FOR ITS REPAIRING PROPERTIES.

REPAIRS THE SKIN BARRIER B:12.25” S:11.25” T:12”

STRENGTHENS SKIN TO HELP RESIST FUTURE SIGNS OF AGING. IT’S NOT A LEGEND, IT’S A NEW WAY TO FIGHT WRINKLES.

DERMATOLOGIST TESTED GENTLE ON SENSITIVE SKIN

FRAGRANCE FREE • PARABEN FREE

[ CENTELLA ASIATICA, ALSO KNOWN AS TIGER GRASS ]

LEGEND HAS IT THAT TIGERS ROLLED AGAINST THIS UNIQUE PLANT TO HELP THEIR SKIN RECOVER FROM BATTLE. WHEN FORMULATED FOR THE FACE, HELPS REPAIR THE SKIN BARRIER TO RESIST VISIBLE SIGNS OF AGING.

Beauty Inc Full-Page and Spread Template.indd 3 6/15/18 4:36 PM FS:9.5625” FS:9.5625” F:10” F:10”

Beauty Inc Beauty Bulletin IN THIS ISSUE

“I am FIrst Departments anD 9 Foremost 16 Golden upS and a stUDent. Hour downS I’m blonde hair is always after years of large a good idea, especially deals, insiders say constantly when its earned media multiples for beauty askIng value on social media is companies may be skyrocketing. qUestIons, moving downward. learnIng...

I lIve 10 17 Sweet dream tHe HonorS cUrIoUs Popsugar’s founder, Lisa Sugar, on how cluB celebrating the winners anD hUngry. she’s turned her of the 2018 Fragrance media company into a I’m pretty Foundation awards. mUch multifaceted empire. obsesseD 12 18 wIth all Ice Queen Inner lIGHt better blondes in that ingestible beauty is a bottle. Is new.” adding on more than just supplemental sales. Moj Mahdara, Here, the latest crop. BeautyCon 20 a K-Beauty Having a blonde 13 oaSIS moment. Page 9. Body In Who’s buying what at Balance innisfree—and why. Whether you’re looking for a shock therapy workout or one where 21 you can freeze your Hype BeaSt buns off (literally), WWD building buzz in the beauty inc rounds up pre-digital age. the newest places on the nyc wellness scene. 34 Winning the Imagining Beauty’S innovation tomorrow. race. Page 26. Page 22. BraveSt the unlikely dual career of a Paris-based beauty executive. FeatUres

22 26 30 On the COver: Lubomira Rochet, chief tHe Game tHe patHfInderS Influencer digital officer of L’Oréal, was the sky’s the limit for photographed exclusively cHanGer ex macHIna uu as chief digital officer of these 26 execs, who are the newest social media for WWD Beauty Inc at b

driving beauty forward Station F. lain

the world’s largest beauty influencers might not a

company, Lubomira with new thinking around be human—but their Photograph by Rochet has catapulted commerce, categories impact is very real Stéphane Gallois L’Oréal to the forefront of and creativity. indeed. the digital age.

WWD iS a ReGiSteReD tRaDeMaRK OF FaiRcHiLD PubLiSHinG, LLc. cOPyRiGHt ©2018 FaiRcHiLD PubLiSHinG, LLc. aLL RiGHtS ReSeRVeD. PRinteD in tHe u.S.a. VOLuMe 213, nO. 3. Friday, June 29, 2018. WWD (iSSn 0149-5380) is published in February,

april, June, august, October and December by Fairchild Media, LLc, which is a division of Penske business Media, LLc. PRinciPaL OFFice: 475 Fifth ave, new york, ny 10017. Periodicals postage paid at new york, ny, and at additional mailing offices. canada Post: re- by Rochet Hannah Khymych; turn undeliverable canadian addresses to P.O. box 503, RPO West beaver cre, Rich-Hill, On L4b 4R6. POStMaSteR: SenD aDDReSS cHanGeS tO WWD, P.O. box 6356, Harlan, ia, 51593. FOR SubScRiPtiOnS, aDDReSS cHanGeS, aDJuStMentS OR bacK iSSue inQuiRieS: Please write to WWD, P.O. box 6356, Harlan, ia, 51593, call 866-401-7801, or e-mail customer service at [email protected]. Please include both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For new york Hand Delivery Service address changes or inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s ny at 1-800-662-2275, option 8. Subscribers: if the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. if during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. you will receive a full refund on all un-mailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. We reserve the right to change the number of print issues in a subscription term, including discontinuing our print format, make substitutions and/or modify the manner in which the subscription is distributed. you have the right to cancel at any time and receive a full refund of any unused portion of your current subscription term. address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WWD, 475 Fifth ave, 2nd Floor, new york, ny 10017. For permissions and editorial requests, e-mail [email protected]. Visit us online at www.wwd. com or to subscribe to other Fairchild Publishing, LLc magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.wwd.com/subscriptions. WWD iS nOt ReSPOnSibLe FOR tHe RetuRn OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DaMaGe OR any OtHeR inJuRy tO, unSOLiciteD ManuScRiPtS, un- SOLiciteD aRt WORK (incLuDinG, but nOt LiMiteD tO, DRaWinGS, PHOtOGRaPHS, anD tRanSPaRencieS), OR any OtHeR unSOLiciteD MateRiaLS. tHOSe SubMittinG ManuScRiPtS, PHOtOGRaPHS, aRt WORK, OR OtHeR MateRiaLS FOR cOn-

SiDeRatiOn SHOuLD nOt SenD ORiGinaLS, unLeSS SPeciFicaLLy ReQueSteD tO DO SO by WWD in WRitinG. ManuScRiPtS, PHOtOGRaPHS, anD OtHeR MateRiaLS SubMitteD MuSt be accOMPanieD by a SeLF-aDDReSSeD StaMPeD enVeLOPe. by Hair photograph

4 wwd beauty inc

629_FOB_TOC.indd 1 6/20/18 5:11 PM

BeautyEDITOR'S Bulletin LETTER

Jenny B. Fine ExEcutivE Editor, bEauty JenniFer weil EuropEan bEauty Editor Allison Collins bEauty FinancE Editor FAye BrookmAn contributing Editor AlexA tietJen prEstigE bEauty and digital Editor ellen thomAs bEauty Editor, mass markEt lAylA ilChi Editorial assistant

JAmes FAllon ExEcutivE Editor, Fairchild Fashion mEdia miles soChA Editor in chiEF, WWd Pete Born Editor at largE, WWd

ContriButors sAmAnthA Conti (london) Joelle dideriCh (paris) luisA zArgAni (milan) sAndrA sAliBAn (milan) mArCy medinA (los angElEs)

CoPydesk mAureen morrison-shulAs copy chiEF dAnielle gilliArd, mAxine wAlly copy Editors

Art dePArtment Jewelyn Butron art dirEctor OperatiOn Photo Ash BArhAmAnd photo dirEctor JennA greene dEputy photo dirEctor JilliAn sollAzzo photo Editor george Chinsee photographEr transfOrmatiOn BeAuty inC Advertising PAul Jowdy chiEF businEss oFFicEr, publishEr stePhAnie siegel vicE prEsidEnt, markEting and salEs rAChAel desAntis bEauty dirEctor hether she’s traveling or at home in Paris, Lubomira digitAl/mArketing/CreAtive serviCes Rochet often wakes up at the crack of dawn to run. One CAss sPenCer crEativE dirEctor, markEting needs only a look at her Instagram feed, where almost every suzette minetti sEnior brand managEr lAuren-Ashley sPenCer intEgratEd markEting managEr other image carries the hashtag #running (or some variation lAney kAy digital salEs plannEr thereof), to know this is not a woman who likes to sit still. kArA heBin Chun Junior graphic dEsignEr, markEting Rochet has brought that same sense of forward momentum AudienCe mArketing Julie zhu vicE prEsidEnt, audiEncE markEting and subscriptions to her role as chief digital officer of L’Oréal, where she’s been rAndi segAl sEnior dirEctor, institutional salEs instrumental in positioning the world’s largest beauty manufacturer into the industry’s lAuren moosBrugger salEs associatE, institutional salEs most tech-forward one, too. Rochet has executed a deft series of partnerships and sArAh Cross dirEctor, subscribEr rEtEntion and EngagEmEnt W mike kAtz dirEctor, FinancE, consumEr markEting acquisitions, and created a framework within L’Oréal to cascade technological innovation ProduCtion throughout the organization and its 34 brands quickly. kevin hurley production dirEctor Rochet was handpicked by L’Oréal chief executive officer Jean-Paul Agon to lead the John Cross production managEr company’s technological transformation (“Every revolution needs a guide,” he says) PrePress ProduCtion Alex shArFmAn digital imaging and she is fulfilling her mandate, most recently with the acquisition of Modiface. “We summits & events needed someone to teach us, have a vision,” Agon told WWD’s Jennifer Weil in “The Game mAry Ann BACher ExEcutivE Editorial dirEctor Changer” on page 22, “but also someone at a high intellectual and management level, Alexis Coyle vicE prEsidEnt and gm, Fairchild livE + WWd AmeliA ewert dirEctor oF ExpEriEntial markEting who would be nice and easy to work with, whom people will really embrace.” FAirChild PuBlishing llC Who better, then, to be the cover subject of this, WWD Beauty Inc’s first issue devoted miChAel Atmore Editorial dirEctor, FootWEar nEWs to innovation? Rochet is in great company. Elsewhere, we’ve turned the spotlight on the and dirEctor oF brand dEvElopmEnt ron wilson dirEctor oF EuropEan opErations people and ideas that are pointing the way toward tomorrow. In “The Pathfinders,” on page 26, 26 people from companies established and emerging, across all areas of the fairchild Publishing llc is a division of Penske media corPoration industry, share how they have created a culture of creativity within their firms and the JAy Penske chairman & cEo technologies and ideas that they believe are shaping the future of beauty. Meanwhile, in “Influencer Ex Machina” on page 30, WWD’s prestige beauty and digital george groBAr chiEF opErating oFFicEr gerry Byrne vicE chairman editor Alexa Tietjen reports on the next generation of rising social media stars—the virtual CrAig PerreAult ExEcutivE vicE prEsidEnt, businEss dEvElopmEnt influencer. While it’s still early days—only one such influencer has a following approaching todd greene ExEcutivE vicE prEsidEnt, businEss aFFairs and gEnEral counsEl CrAig PerrAult ExEcutivE vicE prEsidEnt, businEss dEvElopmEnt the one million mark—Lubomira Rochet is no doubt tracking developments. “Technology,” ken delACAzAr sEnior vicE prEsidEnt, FinancE says the executive, “changes the definition of beauty…and the experience of beauty.” nelson Anderson vicE prEsidEnt, crEativE Julie zhu vicE prEsidEnt, audiEncE markEting and subscriptions gABriel koen vicE prEsidEnt, tEchnology tArik west vicE prEsidEnt, human rEsourcEs ChristinA yeoh vicE prEsidEnt, tEchnical opErations Judith r. mArgolin vicE prEsidEnt, dEputy gEnEral counsEl lAuren uteCht vicE prEsidEnt, hr and corporatE communications young ko vicE prEsidEnt, FinancE and controllEr Julie trinh vicE prEsidEnt, global tax kArl wAlter sEnior dirEctor, pmc contEnt Joni AntonACCi sEnior dirEctor, production opErations eddie ko dirEctor, advErtising opErations Andy limPus dirEctor oF talEnt acQuisition derek rAmsey sEnior product managEr niColA CAtton sEnior dirEctor, proJEcts kAtie PAssAntino dirEctor, audiEncE dEvElopmEnt duAne roChester WEb opErations spEcialist Jenny B. Fine riCk gAsCon dirEctor oF it opErations & production Alex BAhAmACA managEr, tEchnical inFrastructurE @jennybefine CArl Foner sEnior it analyst rAdu sAdeAnu systEms administrator, it don gerBer, ryAn rAmos, iAn holly it analysts 6 wwd beauty inc

629_FOB_EditorsLetter.indd 1 6/20/18 2:40 PM

what’s new in wellness / multiples on the move / sugar factory Beauty Bulletin

Golden Hour According to statistics from Tribe Dynamics, in the last year, #blonde and #blondehair have almost doubled in earned

Makeup Group; Wall The Gould at Owen media value, from $2.3 million to $5.7 million. The growth is being driven by the strength of social-first hair-care and color brands, like Ouai and Pulp Riot, says Tribe’s Conor Begley, who notes, “You can play with hair the same way as makeup and due to that we’re seeing hair care outpace color cosmetics in growth.” Hair-care brands are getting in on the action, with products that make maintenance easier, like purple- pigmented toning drops, dry shampoo in light tones and an updated version of the Nineties favorite Sun-In spray. For more, see “Ice Queen” on page 18. —LAYLA ILCHI Michiels Ricky Casting: Model Management; at Heroes Ali Osk Model: Artists; Allie Smith at Bridge Shang; Hair by Andrew Editor: Market Badia; Alex Director: Style by

Photograph by HannaH KHymycH wwd beauty inc 9

629_BB_OPENER_Blonde.indd 1 6/20/18 6:20 PM Beauty Bulletin master class Sweet Dream Lisa Sugar is building an empire of positivity. First up: Beauty. By Jenny B. Fine

alance is a four-letter word for Popsugar founder Lisa Sugar, for whom more is more—be it business ideas or babies. Sugar is quickly evolving the media company she founded in B2005 and today has over 100 million unique views monthly into a multifaceted empire, with makeup (Beauty by Popsugar), live events (Popsugar Play/ Ground), clothing (coming next fall from Kohl’s) and more. “Our brand is playful and positive—the list could go on,” says Sugar, who bought a second dog when she decided she was through having children (of whom she has three.) “It’s important to keep forcing yourself out of your comfort zone.”

innovation means constantly adapting and trying to create something before everyone else—what problem can i solve that i know i need and everyone else needs? And hopefully getting there first. Being ahead of the game is important—it’s not always best, but I do believe that by being first you can learn faster. We like to test a lot and look at the analytics and data and figure out what’s working and adapt quickly from there. every day we’re evolving as a company, and thinking about business beyond an advertising revenue stream. Selling ads is the core of the business, but we have always wanted to have different ways to have people give us their credit card, whether that’s through a box subscription or licensing. A year and a half ago, we ventured into our beauty license and just announced a clothing keep adding. Our goal is to make everyone’s lives scale today. There is a lot of great content and line through Kohl’s. happier and easier, and the same thing goes for social media has helped people grow quickly. But the worlds of content and commerce have clothing—we want to create cute, wearable looks it’s a matter of then having a grown-up company always intersected—i grew up reading maga- that are on trend but not overly trendy. We have that can be profitable and a real business. That’s zines, which would tell me where to go to buy the data of how people are resonating with what the hard part. something. But there was the hurdle of “Do the our editors are recommending and we make sure to i’m inspired by so many people. Drew Barry- stores have the item?” Online makes it easier, and include that information in product development. more is one—how she has handled her world as a we’ve been able to connect the dots really early. We think we can go well beyond clothing mother, actress, business person with the beauty, We can see what our audience loves and doesn’t and beauty with our licensing deals. Women in the clothing line, her rosé wine, how real she gets and we can infuse that into brands and products. technology is a space I would love to think more on her Instagram. Mindy Kaling, as well—I love her For beauty, we knew they wanted healthy ingredi- about; gifting is another. It seems oversaturated, opinion and view on making your own path and ents and portable products to take on the go. They but a well-curated gifting perspective is an area we creating your own content to star in and produce. wanted products to go from day to night so all of would love to own. And I love Victoria Beckham—her work is impec- our formulas build—they go on sheer, but you can it’s still possible to build a community of cable and that family is everything. ■

10 wwd beauty inc Photograph by Jason Henry

629_BB_Masterclass.indd 1 6/19/18 5:36 PM POWER PLAYERS SPOTLIGHTING BEAUTY’S MOST INTERESTING AND INFLUENTIAL

An Advertising Opportunity

ISSUE: August 17 / CLOSES: July 27 / MATERIALS: August 03 Bonus Distribution: CEW Achiever Awards Luncheon

FOR MORE INFORMATION, PLEASE CONTACT RACHAEL DESANTIS, BEAUTY DIRECTORAT 646 356 4746 OR [email protected]

BINC_HAD_JUNE.indd 2 6/11/18 6:00 PM Beauty Bulletin wellness safari

From Credo Beauty to CVS, retailers are clearing shelf Inner LIght space for ingestible beauty products. Here, four key categories in the supplement sector. By ellen Thomas

WOMEN’S ADAPTOGENS HEALTH Forget wine—cortisol- lowering, hormone- Ingestibles targeting balancing herbal blends are 2 everything from period 3 1 the go-to stress relievers pain to a balanced pH. 2 for Millennials. 1. Queen V daily dr. Brandt detoxifying dose Probiotic, $19 1. Antioxidant water Turmeric, grapefruit Booster, $39 1 seed and garlic antioxidant-rich goji and extract balance macqui berry extracts help yeast and bacteria fight free radicals. while supporting digestive health. 2. Moon Juice SuperYou, $49 a blend of shatavari, 2. Lola Cramp Care, $18 ashwagandha, amla A daily multivitamin and rhodiola improve supplement to combat energy, mood, focus cramping all month long. and overall beauty. 3. de Lune Period Pain dirty Lemon Tincture, $30 3. + Ginseng, Magnesium and $45 for six bottles anti-inflammatory herbs Ginseng—a natural are said to alleviate metabolic regulator—adds menstrual symptoms. a stress-minimizing boost to green tea lemonade. 4. Culturelle women’s Healthy Balance, $24 3 dr. Barbara Sturm This targeted probiotic 4. Antipollution Food, $95 formula is focused on 4 a combination of feminine health. adaptogens and 4 vitamins combat air and digital pollution.

PROBIOTICS TRAVEL SIZE Good skin begins in the gut, From quick-melting say beauty experts launching 1 powders to chug-able shots, bacteria-balancing blends. wellness benefits on the go. 2 2 1. Evolution_18, 1. Care/Of Quick Sticks, 3 $39 for 30 packets 3 $5 for 5 sticks 1 this tablet can be mixed the personalized vitamin in a drink or dissolved company has launched four on the tongue. universal formulas that can be blended into a drink or 2. RMS Beauty within dissolved on the tongue. Probiotic, $64 Rosemarie Swift’s probiotic 2. Reserveage Beauty Shot, is formulated with prebiotics. $29.99 for 6 a portable shot of liquid 3. Sonya dakar collagen peptides boosted Acidophilus Flora, $45 with hyaluronic acid is a vegan probiotic blend said to promote hydration from the Los angeles-based from within. facialist. 3. Hum Nutrition 4. The Beauty Chef Sleep Collagen Pop, $12 Inner Beauty Powder, Packed with collagen $49.95 peptides and vitamin c, this mixture’s sour this rose-flavored fizzing cherry, lemon balm and tablet liquefies on contact passionflower act with the tongue. as natural sedatives. 4. Crushed Tonic Matcha 5. Neruim Prolistic 4 Crush, $30 for 6 packets Probiotic Powder, biotin, collagen and 4 $45 for 30 5 probiotic-packed formulas Resources Halley for Michelle Longo Vitamin c gives an immune- can be dissolved into coffee, supporting boost to this tea or water for stronger quick-dissolving powder. skin and thicker hair. by styling Prop

12 wwd beauty inc Photographs by joshua scott

629_BB_WellnessSafari.indd 1 6/19/18 5:47 PM Body In BaLance 1 Mapping the latest wellness destinations in Manhattan—from sweating in an infrared blanket to shock therapy workouts.

1. SHOCk 6. BRRRN THERAPy 107 W 20th Street 2 153 e 70th Street 212-352-3132 917-409-0128 from yoga to battle ropes, This workout comes with workout classes in this new a uniform—an electronic fitness studio are com- Muscle Stimulation suit pleted in rooms ranging that literally shocks the from 45 to 60 degrees in muscles into doing the temperature. work of a three-hour exer- cise session in 30 minutes. 7. SHAPE HOuSE 3 34 W 17th Street 2. FACE GyM 855-567-2346 AT SAkS FIFTH This l.a.-based chain 4 AVENuE is like an urban sweat 611 Fifth avenue lodge for fashion-minded Beauty on 2 Millennials. a $70 session includes one hour wrapped 212-605-9926 in an infrared blanket, with noninvasive facial “work- netflix for entertainment. outs” are said to lift and 5 tone the face. a second lo- cation of the u.K. import is 8. SPACE By 6 set to open in September. MAMA MEDICINE 73 Spring Street 3. SALT ROOM Suite 501 7 AT MDRN 212-226-1714 SANCTuARy a well-known healer to stressed-out fashion 12 W 27th Street industry folk, Deborah 212-675-9355 Hanekamp hosts medicine The wellness center’s readings—featuring energy salt room is for more than work and crystal healings— just sitting — the space and prescribes bespoke hosts crystal bowl sound bath soaks out of her SoHo 8 healing sessions and color- loft space. therapy yoga classes. 9. GINGER CHI 4. STRECH’D 54 Henry Street 27 W 20th Street 646-882-0389 212-548-6500 lower east side dwellers slT founder amanda stop by this storefront to Freeman opened her new purchase jade rollers, gua stretch-focused concept sha stones and more holis- 9 in May. tic skin-care tools.

5. SB SkIN 10. TRIBECA 37 W 19th Street #3 WELLNESS 10 917-243-1389 COLLECTIVE facialist shamara 116 chambers is in the little Bandaroff Street, 4th Floor black book of a host of models and new york- 646-833-8331 based influencers. Her Drs. Josh Trutt and new studio space employs erica Waters along with an infrared sauna and her phsyicans assistant Lauren signature microcurrent abramowitz of Park avenue machines. Skin Solutions have opened this personalized wellness clinic, offering iV infusions and stem cell therapy.

illustration by carlos Monteiro wwd Beauty inc 13

629_BB_WellnessSafari.indd 2 6/19/18 5:47 PM in the beauty meet the BEST of the BESTindustry

Beauty Inc Full-Page and Spread Template.indd 2 6/19/18 6:54 AM in the beauty meet the BEST of the BESTindustry

Beauty Inc Full-Page and Spread Template.indd 3 6/19/18 6:54 AM Beauty Bulletin Money Inc.

Of course, return on investment plays into the willingness to pay big, and some of the brands sold for high multiples haven’t continued their growth rates as originally projected. Growth in the color category, for one, is being driven by Asia, particularly China, where many makeup artist brands aren’t present. Industry gems—businesses that are growing quickly with plenty of white space for a new owner to continue that growth streak—will still command the high multiples. “Multiples for high- growth companies aren’t coming down,” says Ilya Seglin, managing director at Threadstone Partners. “Fundamentally, there’s more demand for high-growth companies than ever.” But there really aren’t that many of those companies left, say insiders, especially with $10 million or more in net sales, the size the investment community likes. “It’s a competitive market in terms of what is out there to acquire,” says Coye Nokes of OC&C Strategy Consultant’s consumer and retail practice. Where multiples are expected to soften is for the companies that have low-to-average growth, or no growth, where it’s harder for potential buyers, particularly private-equity firms, to envision a successful exit, especially if they pay a high mul- the historical average multiple for the consumer sec- tiple. In some of those situations, sources say the Ups and tor of 10 to 12 times EBITDA. And if a deal happens deals may not end up getting done, or that prices for Anastasia Beverly Hills, which is said to be on won’t be as high as the market is used to seeing. the market for a $3 billion valuation, it would mean Insiders say prestige brands may remain the downs a price that rings in at 15 times EBITDA — a figure stronger investment because they have more based on the $200 million in EBITDA the brand is international expansion opportunities than mass The beauty dealscape shows said to have. or masstige ones. “It is where the consumer is fo- Still, in recent months, several sources say such cused, but there is more and more competition,” no signs of slowing down prices aren’t guaranteed looking forward. Beauty says a source. “For them, that’s going to become but buyers are putting the deals—especially those for makeup companies— more challenging and it’s harder to say those brakes on sky-high multiples. started to climb upward into the 12 times to 15 brands have tremendous international potential.” times EBITDA-multiple range around 2015 and There also may be an adjustment in the think- By allIson collIns have stayed there. But several years of rapid-fire ing that all beauty companies make good invest- M&A in beauty has led experts to predict that ments. People are more experienced at investing prices may soon settle closer to the 12- or 13-times in the category now, says Nokes. “There’s more ave deal multiples peaked? EBITDA range. experience and education, and it’s not going to be Maybe. There are several factors at play in the mul- category-wide that any beauty company auto- Some industry sources are specu- tiples equation. For one, the quality of the assets— matically gets a great valuation,” she says. That lating that after years of increased the size, scale and offerings of beauty companies has also led to more sophisticated methods of competition and big-deal prices, not yet purchased—just isn’t as good as it used to valuation, where investors look through different Hmultiples for beauty companies may be moving in be, sources say. There are few $100 million-plus lenses to determine value, such as exposure to a a new direction—down. brands that are founder- or private equity-owned growing category. Hair, for example, is seen as Beauty deals have dominated the mergers and that are growing between 30 percent and 50 percent less differentiated, so a company with an interest- acquisitions market over the past several years, with a year. On top of that, the market is shifting toward ing and innovative angle would have the potential brands selling for sky-high multiples and ample skin-care and hair-care deals, and those types of to fetch a high multiple. buyers lining up to pay those high prices in order to businesses can take longer to scale than makeup, The fact that beauty companies are increasing- establish or cement footholds in a rapidly evolving which means buyers aren’t always willing to pay as ly looking to acquire capabilities outside of their market. Deals like the Estée Lauder Cos.’ acquisition much for them (though they are expected to pony core competencies—such as technology deals—is of Too Faced for $1.45 million, which was 5.5 times up for the fast-growing ones). also impacting prices. “Multiples might come sales and 21 times earnings before interest, taxes, Interest rates—which only really affect big down a little bit,” says Andrew Shore, managing depreciation and amortization; and L’Oréal’s ac- deals—are another factor. They’re going up, which director at Moelis. “This crop of assets, while quisition of It Cosmetics for $1.2 billion, a 6.1 times means borrowing money to pay for deals is more fabulous, isn’t the grand cru of the last few years. sales multiple and estimated 15 EBITDA multiple, expensive. “That typically puts a lid on multiples,” We might also see a shift in M&A from brands to marked high points, coming in significantly above says one financial source. capacities and technologies.” ■

16 wwd beauty inc Illustration by matthew Billington

629_BB_MoneyInc_UpsandDowns.indd 1 6/19/18 3:36 PM EYE CANDY

Terry Darland Linda Olivier and Renaud Levy Cresp de Lesquen

Edgar Huber, Hari Nef, Claudia Marcocci and Simona Cattaneo.

Nicolas Mirzayantz and Princess The honors Alexandra of Greece Club The Fragrance FoundaTion awards recognized the industry’s most innovative creators. Frédéric and Photographs by aurora rose Marie Malle

Felix Mayr- ¬ From tap dancing song. The evening’s hon- and Body Works notched Ann Gottlieb Harting to push-ups, the 2018 orees included Hall of up three wins and Coty Fragrance Foundation Fame honoree Ann Got- picked up three: two for Awards were unusually tlieb, Lifetime Achieve- Gucci Bloom and one action-packed. Actress ment Perfumer Award for Calvin Klein Eternity. Jane Krakowski pre- winner Olivier Cresp As for the push-ups— sided over the ceremony and Game Changer they came courtesy of (president Linda Levy’s Award winner Frédéric Fragrance Vlogger of the first), cracking jokes, Malle. Tom Ford won for Year, Jeremy Fragrance, dancing and even break- F--king Fabulous and who quickly pumped ing into song at one Oud Minerale—marking them out on stage. “I just point a rendition of “Fra- the 10th time in a row started my blog to share grance Is a Girl’s Best the brand has received information,” he exulted, Friend,” sung to the tune a Fragrance Foundation “and now I’m in New of the original Broadway award. Meanwhile, Bath York City!”

Nata Dvir Alexandre Emily Weiss Choueiri and Xavier Vey

John Demsey and Patrice Béliard

wwd beauty inc 17

629_BB_FragranceFoundation.indd 1 6/27/18 11:52 AM 629_BB_Trend_BlondeProducts.indd 1 18

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3 6 2 5

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1. Ahmria Lewis, Kiehl’s Store

Manager 2. Gloria Flagg,

Lancôme Business Manager 3. Anne Taylor, Lancôme Counter Manager 4. Mary Beth Elliot, Lancôme Counter Manager 5. Cassandra Alvarado, Urban Decay Counter Manager 6. Dede Zuber, Giorgio Armani Counter 12 13 16 Manager 7. Jenneh Boikai, 12 13 15 16 17 17 Lancôme Brand Ambassador 8. Ann Tam, YSL Senior Beauty 14 Advisor 9. Michael Acosta, Giorgio Armani Counter Manager 10. Julie Rush, Lancôme Beauty Advisor 11 . Christopher James McClam, Urban Decay Counter Manager 12 . Lilia Shapovalov, Lancôme Brow Specialist 13 . Dominick Vitale, Kiehl’s Multi Store Manager 14 . Julie Darrell, YSL Counter Manager 15 . Mai Huynh, Lancôme Beauty Advisor 16 . Susan Morrison, Lancôme Boutique Manager 17. Kari Gilliland, Kiehl’s Account Coordinator BESTof the BEST L’Oréal Luxe is proud to partner with WWD each year to recognize

exceptional service in luxury beauty. Congratulations to our honorees.

All of the retail professionals shown here exemplify the ideals of customer service in luxury beauty. We honor them for their dedication to customer service and their commitment to the high standards of the beauty brands they represent. These ambassadors set the gold standard in luxury beauty, and we off er them our highest praise.

To learn more about careers at L’Oréal Luxe, go to www.beautyadvisorjobs.com

Beauty Inc Full-Page and Spread Template.indd 1 6/20/18 4:28 PM Beauty Bulletin Haul Monitor

Stephanie Harrop with THe HAUL mother-daughter duo Innisfree Pore Clearing A K-BeAuty amanda and Mary Clay Mousse Mask with Frances tarapchak. Super Volcanic Cluster, $19 mary Frances tarapchak picked up this mask to OAsis help minimize her pores.

Innisfree Moisturizing InnIsfree has generated a lot of Jelly Mask with wine Extract, $17 buzz and business since open- “This mask brightens, ing its first U.S. flagship last year. reduces pores and evens LAYLA ILCHI heads to the Union skin tone,” Harrop said. Innisfree Balancing Square locale to find out why. Cleansing Oil with Green Tea, $21 “I love skin care,” amanda tarapchak said. “I’ll try anything.”

Innisfree Moisture Cleansing Oil with Green Tea, $21 mary Frances tarapchak opted for the hydrating version of the cleanser. Date: 5/18/18 total aFter tax: time: 3:03 p.m. Innisfree Hydrating Store: Innisfree/862 Broadway $160.48 Sleeping Mask with Green Tea, $19 amanda tarapchak was tHe SHopperS tHe SaleS aSSociate also convinced to pick up AmAndA sTephAnie a sleeping mask.

And mAry hArrop Innisfree Purifying Facial Cleanser FrAnces ¬ With a degree in cosmetology and with Sea Salt, $12 TArApchAk experience working “It just targeted every issue,” mary Frances ¬ in for a day of shopping in theater makeup, tarapchak said of the from Pennsylvania, Stephanie Harrop has antiaging and nourishing mother and daughter always loved beauty properties. mary Frances and products. During her amanda tarapchak were time at innisfree, she’s Innisfree Lip Sleeping on the hunt for some quickly grasped the Pack with Canola Honey, new treatment products. many K-beauty trends $15 each Since amanda is a big and rituals and eagerly “You put it on when you’re skin-care fanatic, her teaches customers sleeping and your lips are online research led the about how to incorporate supersoft and smooth the duo to their first visit at them into their own next day,” Harrop said. innisfree. “i found this routines. today, she started by introducing place and thought the Innisfree Skin Solution the tarapchaks to the plants looked so nice,” Mask in BHA, Hyaluronic green tea franchise, “and she said, referring to the Acid and Vita C, $2.80 each we rolled from there,” she store’s verdant vertical “You can’t leave Innisfree said. She tested two of garden. mary Frances without a sheet mask,” the line’s oil cleansers on needed a new cleanser, Harrop said. so sales associate (or the women at the store’s senior keyholder, in brand sink to demonstrate parlance) Stephanie firsthand the texture and Harrop recommended a smell. once they started few options. “i had never playing with products, heard about double the mother-daughter duo cleansing,” she said, as were encouraged to start Harrop first applied a asking about the brand’s cleansing oil and then other offerings, like lip a purifying cleanser. sleeping packs and sheet impressed at the result, masks. “i can talk about amanda opted for an a product all day,” said oil cleanser to pair with Harrop. “but until you try her face wash at home. it on, that’s when you’ll “it felt nice to be able to really see a difference.” try the products,” she said. “the fragrance and texture were major.”

20 wwd beauty inc Photographs by Joshua scott

629_BB_ShopperStalker.indd 1 6/19/18 3:37 PM STORYTELLING

¬ Public relations exec A key change is the Marianne Diorio knew ‘always-on’ mentality how to create a viral when it comes to com- campaign long before the munications. “In the advent of the Internet. On past, you were a brand the eve of her retirement and people knew what after 30-plus years with you stood for and every the Estée Lauder Cos., couple of months you Diorio looks back on came out with a new STAY AHEAD Marianne Diario and building buzz in a pre- and campaign or messaging Mrs. Estée Lauder. post-digital universe—and or program,” says Diorio. what it takes to really cut “Consumers had a longer OF THE through the clutter in an memory. Now, everything always-on environment. you put out there—every “There’s always been the post, tweet or experi- BEAUTY CURVE Hype Beast need to have an element ence—you have to act like of surprise,” she says, it’s a new day. Yo u have to Gain insights and access at these Public relations powerhouse “and today you must en- earn people’s trust and gage people on a number respect every minute of must-attend events: Marianne Diorio knows a great of different levels—visu- every day.” Here, Diorio ally, intellectually, verbally shares some standout story when she creates one. and sensually.” moments.

New York launCh Challenge Solution 7.11.18 A Conversation with YouTube Prescriptives New cleansers ¬ We enlisted professional Featuring Google Experts Sparkling are usually not window washers in the hot topics. But General Motors building Ericka Mendez & Charlotte van der Smeede Clean the category on Fifth Avenue in NYC to Cleanser was important to ascend and descend from Prescriptives in the the 39th floor, where we late Eighties. How were doing meetings for to innovate on the small groups of editors. communications The window washers and make it a wow? held thought bubbles New York that spoke humorously 9.21.18 about cleansing. It was Achiever Awards Luncheon funny and entertaining and unforgettable. If only Honoring Women Leaders in Beauty Instagram had existed then.

Prescriptives Tell the story of ¬ Make the launch all Skins inclusion and timely and meaningful by diversity, which connecting it to the 1991 Foundation was one of the U.S. Census. We worked 10.17.18 New York key elements of with models of diverse Prescriptives, and backgrounds, used street- A Conversation with L’Oréal’s communicate the style photography and significance of this brought retail to the streets Chairman & CEO Jean-Paul Agon launch, which had with traveling “Color- 115 foundation printing vans”—a precursor shades to serve to pop-up stores and food the lightest to the trucks. deepest of skin needs. 11.1.18 New York

Prescriptives Another lipstick ¬ Enter Lypsyncha, the The Move Towards Naturals lipstick launch. Yawn. fabulous drag performer, Featuring Bare Escentuals, Credo Beauty, No matter how who made the new great it is. Prescriptives lipstick Fresh, Tata Harper and The NPD Group sing—pun intended.

12.4.18 New York A Conversation with Macy’s CEO Jeff Gennette Clinique Launch a fragrance ¬ We made Happy the antidote to the “heroin- happy that would break chic” of the early Nineties, when ultra-thin, through the clutter of non-smiling, dour models in downer settings was fragrance launches. the fashion of the moment. “C’mon Get Happy” And square that with became the opposing rallying cry and made the fact that Clinique Clinique even more endearing. The cultural shift is 100 percent was so successful it resulted in a New York Times RESERVE NOW AT fragrance-free. op-ed piece. CEW.org

629_BB_Diorio.indd 1 6/19/18 6:30 PM The Game ChanGer Lubomira Rochet is transforming the way L’Oréal taps into the power of technology to drive the future. By Jennifer Weil Photograph by Stéphane GalloiS

t’s almost 5 p.m. on a Tuesday evening chet’s goal since she joined the company in March in Paris, where an impromptu photo 2014 with the mission of revving up L’Oréal’s shoot is taking place at Station F, the digital transformation, from e-commerce accel- world’s largest start-up campus. Gather- eration to data and personalization optimization ing before a sign reading “Beauty Tech to reinventing marketing models through content Atelier” are a dozen or so young execs and influencers, and services. involved with L’Oréal’s accelerator program there, “Technology,” says the soft-spoken executive, Iwhose excitement and comradeship are palpable “changes the definition of beauty…and the experi- as they ham it up for the camera. ence of beauty.” Strike a pose! Snap. Smile! Snap. Rochet has shown herself to be a fast worker: Outside observers would never guess that prac- Already, the company counts 3,000 digital plat- tically hidden in the back row is the person who forms, 300 million social network followers and makes all this possible—Lubomira Rochet, the 1 billion visits to its digital platforms per year. In chief digital officer of L’Oréal. Paradoxically, such 2017 alone, L’Oréal’s e-commerce sales rose more understatement is among her trademarks as she than 30 percent to 2.1 billion euros, or 8 percent catapults the world’s largest beauty company into of its total revenues, making the channel—if the digital age. considered a country—the third largest after the Rochet’s manner might be restrained, but her U.S. and China. actions roar. In March, for instance, L’Oréal sent Another sign, this on a door leading into shockwaves through the industry with its first Rochet’s office in L’Oréal headquarters on the tech buy—of Modiface, a leader in augmented outskirts of Paris reads: “Welcome to L’Oréal reality and artificial intelligence technology. An Silicon Clichy.” engraved plaque, saying “Do Epic S--t,” was gifted The joke smacks of truth, since her direct team to Rochet from her team after that acquisition, of more than 100 people and extended team and it sits squarely on her desk. of 2,000 are building one of the key hubs and Ideating and executing bold ideas has been Ro- start-up ecosystems for innovation in today’s

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629_FEAT_Lubomira.indd 1 6/20/18 5:23 PM 629_FEAT_Lubomira.indd 2 6/20/18 5:23 PM 629_FEAT_Lubomira.indd 3 beautyModiface company—inside andoutsideof hasprovided nearlyevery isa Agon, haslongbeenconvinced technology says notingL’Oréal’s Rochet, officer, executive chairmanandchief Jean-Paul integrating andin-housinga wetooktherisk inbuying, [before], for someyearswithfounderParham having Aarabi. “Despiteusnever donethat With Modiface,approach toacquisitions. L’Oréal forexample, hadbeenworking cropsupontheway. ly towhatever head, becauseit’s you’re youhave running40kilometers, tohave inyour your40kilometers and sane.” “keep focused sions that—alongside coloringmandalas—helpstheexecutive andnotasa portunity readinessfor change, thismuscle[for]embracing change asanop- she says. “The sure that L’Oréal rather “L’Oréal isproactive thanreactive. isa data, content,e-commerce,omnichannel,voice,ARorAI. it devices, ships enablethecompany toscoutoutwhat’s bubblinguponmany fronts,be later at in-depth interview samplingstrategiesmanage viaa andmeasuretheirproduct fromtheircontent.AnotherisSampler,money fromCanada,whichhelpsbrands 24 relationship at of entrepreneursinbeauty andhave thisclose “We withL’Oréal beingdeveloped currently mentors. addition toStation F, Francisco, andmadenumerousinvestments in California ResearchCenter, inSan anincubator innovation strategy, thecompany debutedthe exponentially.expanded As beauty space. mention fast-moving—virtual to increasingly challengingandcompetitive—not dotted bythelikes ofJeff withart main thoroughfarecutting throughthevast ing founders.Atoneofthedesksoff ing thoseinfluencerstotrack, andmake distribute influencers tocreate campaigns,whileempower- Tailify, whichlinksbigbrands withsocialmedia companiesannually.new andco-creates two scales fiveearlystage start-ups ers Factory, withwhomitjointlyinvests and accelerator Found-London-based andincubator Berlin, SanFrancisco/Silicon Valley, andinthe Partech Ventures, footprintin withastrong by bringingourbrands totheplatform.” shoppable. It’s have andratings andvideo.Everything is reviews We products. canseenew are outthere.They group.Ourbrandsbecause itislike abigfocus munity beauty app,” says “For Rochet. usit’s behindGlossom.“It’s the executives bespoke fragrance concept. behind ExperimentalPerfume anonline Club, manuelle Moeglin, andperfumer creative director because bysurprise,notleast caughtthebeauty acquisition industry The In schizophrenicmind-set,” yourunhave thisvery “When shesays. “If oneofherpersonalpas- torunning, mind-set likens thisever-ready Rochet anticipates a Rochet “Always it’s isat Rochet On thisevening Under L’Oréal’s Rochet, digitalfootprinthas start-up One suchcompany istheLondon-based L’Oréal hasalsoinvested inFrench VC there’sThen Fatih Girisken andIsaiah Pegues,

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that threatisbuiltintheDNA.” is something innovation ofnew anda flurry are whereninestart-ups L’Oréal notingthat suchrelation- headquarters, ofitsopen part Station F, long-termstrategy, beabletoadaptquick- yet truewithL’Oréal’s hasbeenparticularly This Koons, sitsEm- like thecom- thecampus’ visit- firm hall great advantage. competitive can

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changed my attendingbefore University ofCalifornia,Berkeley. two “Those the eliteÉcoleNormale SupérieureandInstitut Politiques d’Études deParis in theEuropeanCommission.Trained shegraduated asaneconomist, from 2001 inCalifornia,it’s and ROIareprotected.” demanding dialoguewiththemtoensurethat ourconsumers,brand equity at ship, makingsurewecanhave features andfunctionalities accesstoallnew search—is fundamentalforL’Oréal brands aprivileged toestablish relation- Facebook,Google, Snapchat, Alibaba,Tencent andBaidu. remain like aproofofconceptthing.” make surethat thisisreallyscaled,” shecontinues.“We easily. brickoftechnology to imbedanew what digitalcapabilities,” wecallindustrial whichshesays make itpossible andwehavescale websitessuperfast, rolledouthundreds.We’ve allofthegroup’sries, whichserves 34brands acrossallgeographies. face’s Facto- andemergingtechnologiesthroughitsDigitalServices existing became a ogy “It opening. ning ofthecommercialInternet. Meeting entrepreneursandVCs thinking intermsoftheInternet revolution,” asanindustrial shesays. “All everything. wouldimpact passionate abouthowtechnology thoseguyswere owning any it isunlikely withL’Oréal outsidebeauty companieswouldbecomfortable knowledge andknow-howintotheirexperiences.” Most ortechplatforms thatit mediacompanies,retailers wanttoembedour nologies sinceitsfoundingin2006. L’Oréal— intelligence and augmentedreality artificial tech- withitsevolving stages,” beta says “We Rochet. toEuropeshebeganhercareer at returned When Rochet That’s Digital wasn’t always inRochet’s future.Ifitweren’t forspending1999to “Partnering withthemaindigitalplatforms—video, social,e-commerce, Meanwhile, L’Oréal giants,suchas remainsclosetothetechindustry inallourwebsites,apps,to “Our aimistorolloutourservices “We That though,isthatOne thingthat L’Oréal iscertain, islooking says be Rochet theideais“tocontinueworkingwithandforpartners, that scaleiseverything,” believe says “We Rochet. periodalsocoincidedwiththe massivedot-combubbleandthebegin- suchasHal undereconomists studied becauseRochet changed my ifit’s oftheirdata, even part lifeforever,” shesays. anddigitalingeneral.” passion,andentrepreneurship, start-ups likely shewould have working becomeacivilservant wholeoutlook—my wholelife,” says“Technol- Rochet. openand muchinaconstant, arevery throughasubsidiary. don’t wantdigitalto insiderssay industry wanttobeable Capgemini, then Varian, whowere toscaleModi- yearsreally wasalsoeye- created

6/20/18 5:23 PM

Photograph by alain buu joined Microsoft, where she was tasked with creating and amplifying its using digital insights to create new products. “The work we are doing with the start-up programs. start-up Riviter is about that. It’s really about reverse-engineering the ideation France served as the pilot country for many such Microsoft programs, process, and starting from very emerging trends,” says Rochet. which were subsequently extended to the rest of the world. With a friend, Another key change has been from buzz marketing to always-on market- Rochet then bought Valtech, a digital agency specializing in building Web ing, driven by the need to scale massively around content production. “Today, sites and apps, and advising people on their digital transformation. you have so many more touch points. You have to create content for Face- There, Rochet crossed paths with Agon, who asked her to help rethink book, Instagram, Snapchat, Amazon, Alibaba, YouCam—for all those guys,” how best to accelerate digital at the beauty giant. One recommendation was says Rochet. “We calculated that in Germany, for example, you need 32 touch to create a chief digital officer’s position. points between the moment you start thinking about your next skin-care “I realized in 2013 that in order to accomplish the revolution we wanted with- range and the moment you buy it.” in L’Oréal we needed a guide,” says Agon, while sitting upstairs in the company’s Data is the third turning point, with the subject of data privacy zooming to booth at Viva Technology Trade Show in Paris in mid-May. “Every revolution the fore of public debate. “This is a very interesting moment, where we need needs a guide. We needed to appoint a chief digital officer, and we needed to put to have a philosophy or—I would go further—an ethics of data,” says Rochet. her on the [executive committee]. “We have to build a trust compact with our customers, and using data Agon says there was no question in his mind that Rochet was right for the ethically is very important, and will be more and more important,” she says. job. “We needed someone to teach us, to have a vision,” he continues, “but also The fourth significant change stems from e-commerce, which is picking up someone at a high intellectual and management level, who would be nice and pace everywhere and which she calls L’Oréal’s next growth relay. “You have a easy to work with, that people will really embrace. She has all these qualities.” fantastic selection. It’s an infinite shop,” says Rochet. “You can find products Agon calls Rochet absolutely fantastic in the role, defining the vision with him that you don’t find offline. People like it because usually you have a lot of from the beginning and laying out a blueprint for the deployment of digital over content attached to that experience. They like the convenience of it… the the next five years across L’Oréal. “We are definitely today largely ahead of the transparency of it.” competition,” he says, “and it’s largely thanks to her.” Voice activation, whose impact is already felt in key emerging markets, is Rochet describes her own management style as that of a “servant-leader,” another important area. “If you take India or Indonesia, those guys are leapfrog- saying her role is “to make sure the teams are supported and able to do what ging,” she says, referring to how consumers there didn’t go from mainframe com- they know how to do best, and sometimes better puters to desktops to mobile phones. “They went directly to mobile, to social.” than you do. Your role is to be at their service— Today, more than 30 percent of searches are made directly through voice- and not the other way around.” enabled technologies, such as Siri, Google Home or Alexa. In China, that Aarabi calls Rochet inspiring. “She knows the figure climbs to around 50 percent. direction that she wants to pursue, and she’s Also in China, there are no more boundaries between shopping online and someone who everyone likes to rally around in offline. Rochet refers to Alibaba buying bricks-and-mortar stores and chains, terms of her vision. She really sees the future,” and refurbishing mom-and-pop-type shops using big data to customize as- he says. “She can connect the dots before most sortments based on information about what people are consuming locally. people that I’ve interacted with.” “The Whole Foods-Amazon move is super interesting, super forward- “Lubomira focuses on choosing the right thinking because at the end of the day, people will want to have this seamless people, giving them direction and building experience between on- and offline,” says Rochet. trust,” says Miron Mironiuk, founder and ceo of Emotional intelligence is not yet being used at L’Oréal. “We are at the Cosmose, which aids marketers in predicting and stage of using very low-level machine-learning to make sure that we optimize influencing consumers’ choices, and was part of our processes. That is really what we use AI for,” she says. Ultimately, EI Founders Factory. could be employed in the form of robotics, for example. “But it’s something “Most of the clients are looking for solutions that for me is still far away in the sense of it’s not in the next five years—so that are already validated by the market,” he con- it’s like an eternity in my world,” says Rochet with a laugh. tinues. “They are talking a lot about innovation, It’s early, too, for cryptocurrencies and blockchain, although she keeps an but in reality they want to see case studies from eye on that space. “It’s cool because it’s a comeback to the spirit of the Inter- competitors before they will try it themselves. net, which was a very libertarian spirit at the beginning,” says Rochet. “[It] “In contrast, during our first meeting Lubomira was a highly decentralized, enhanced, super creative place.” said: ‘If you are working on any new solution, I She notes the way innovation bubbles up varies in different parts of the want to be the first one to know, and L’Oréal is world. In the U.S., for instance, there are a lot of tech-driven innovations the first company to give you a chance and try stemming from research and government collaborations. VCs have been it,’” recounts Mironiuk. “This unusual approach strongly backing the emergence of new technologies, as well. made L’Oréal our first global client and gave us a Meanwhile in China, Rochet says that innovation is driven by consumer chance to succeed.” behavior and consumer observation. “It’s more tech push on one side and As a woman leader in tech, Rochet is a rarity. consumer pull on the other,” she says. But there’s more than just a gender issue. “I am Rochet brims with excitement about how digital an outsider. I’m an immigrant. I’m a mom. So, I’m “Our aim is to roll out our and tech are developing in the world of beauty today. many things—I’m not just a woman,” says Rochet, “It’s a great moment…that is going to last,” she who was born in Bulgaria. “The whole debate on services in all our web sites, says, back over at Station F. “We’re at a tipping women’s leadership, etcetera, needs to take a big- in all our apps, to make sure point, where people will want to devote their lives ger form, which is diversity and inclusiveness.” to creating beauty start-ups. It’s an opportunity While she has been instrumental in bringing such that this is really scaled. We for people just like us, if we have the right level of issues to the forefront, Rochet has also worked to don’t want digital to remain a humility,” she continues. build digital into every aspect of L’Oréal’s actions. “That’s the key point to [working] with those The executive highlights numerous inflection proof of concept thing.” guys—to really invent the next chapter in the points. The first was when the company began Lubomira Rochet beauty industry.” ■

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629_FEAT_Lubomira.indd 4 6/20/18 5:23 PM outside inspo: My kids inspire me with the fresh ways they experience the world. they are constantly asking “Why,” which forces me and my husband to re-examine our assumptions. asking Courtney “Why” is a powerful tool to break through to new Adeleye thinking. Founder and ceo, The Mane choice future impaCt: ¬ When it comes to aR’s impact on the beau- innovating hair-care ty industry has only just categories, she’s a scratched the surface. natural. the ability to show how to create a look or use a new Culture of Creativity: product using aR is still in T H E iron sharpens iron, so i its infancy. Maybe some- highly encourage team day we will be able to collaborations. collabora- purchase wearable tech tive exercises and brain- that you can program to storming tend to spark in- show the colors you want novative ideas—especially that day. when assembling groups of people of different ages, genders and ethnicities that come from different backgrounds, and whose strengths and weaknesses vary. there are no wrong answers or ceilings, as P A T H that can suffocate creative energy and ideas.

outside inspo: mAritA Burke creaTive direcTor, My mother. She was a sin- Mecca gle mom, who took care The mother of all of my three sisters and i ¬ beauty junkies who’s with very little help. She made Mecca the holy instilled in us the value of grail of experiential family, confidence and an retail. impeccable work ethic.

Culture of Creativity: future impaCt: We have a lot of “what the internet and social if?” moments. What if we media have already had by Julie Soefer;McGrath

created a festival? Or a Mark Mann F I N D an impact on beauty. brand? Or we became beauty used to seem far a publisher? Dropping away and untouchable. an idea and allowing People feel more the business to own the connected, which makes development of the idea beauty more tangible. and turn into something by heong; Masterson c really special has worked well for us.

Phoebe outside inspo: by Scalamandre X/Shutterstock; the world of fashion is /R e

such a creative force. it’s a F constantly changing and E R S reinventing itself and it’s incredibly competitive. i also draw great inspi- Finger by Kickliter; a shley emeline ration from how nike From text-based commerce b Griffin Lipson/ Berlind designs, collaborates, to product creation, Senior direcTor markets and activates in-store. spada by oF MarkeTing: new e 26 people in beauty whose buSineSS, conTenT and coMMerce, Sephora future impaCt: hinsee; innovations today point ¬ A cross-channel, the role of community c content-driven, is getting stronger and the way to tomorrow. commerce-savvy stronger. Our custom- triple threat. ers have moved from George just shopping with us urke by

Culture of Creativity: to collaborating with us by Ramirez-Fulton X/Shutterstock; b Getting outside always (Mecca beauty junkies), /R e

partying with us (at Mec- a helps me generate new F ideas. Grabbing coffee or caLand and at our store c ooley;

having a “walking touch openings), marketing with llen a base” puts your brain in us (word of mouth) and educating us—whether

a different space. and b X Prutting/ morning run is some of telling us what brands we by deleye

my best thinking time. should introduce or what a David

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629_FEAT_Pathfinder.indd 1 6/19/18 6:35 PM where many employees outside inspo: outside inspo: outside inspo: Inside love to work from. it Leo Varadkar of ireland has the evolution and Roger Federer. He beats his Meccaland. feels like our own Star- been hugely inspiring. His reinvention of adidas opponents in a game that is bucks and the younger role in transforming the over the past few years increasingly about strength, generation is often more agenda and the percep- has been amazing to stamina and power through comfortable working there tion of ireland globally as watch. they’ve carved the beauty of his move- than a desk. a forward-thinking nation out a differentiated ment and precision of is a reflection of the power space in sportswear his shots. He continues outside inspo: of diversity. From equal- around creativity, culture, to innovate and reinvent BeAtriCe the children from Marjory ity to women’s rights to music and fashion. their himself and the sport even Feliu espAdA Stoneman Douglas High successfully escalating approach to product while he has been at the Founder/ceo, The School in Florida who are ireland’s voice to the top of lines, collaborations and top of it for 15 plus years. honey poT coMpany taking a stance on gun the eu agenda, his impact content has reignited Finally, he has tremendous in accelerating change has their cool factor in a clarity of thought. On court, they like and don’t like. ¬ Creating the future control are so passionate been dramatic. whole new way with this means smart, tactical they are our marketing of feminine care. and well-spoken. it gives the next generation of adjustments to adjust to machine and more than me hope that the next Culture of Creativity: future impaCt: consumers. the weather, the surface ever they are establishing generation will do a better Fans as brands: While or the opponent’s game. the ground rules. i try to put myself in the job than us. place of the consumer ai and aR are already future impaCt: Off court it means a clear and envision how i buy future impaCt: reshaping how beauty is beauty is about the look, vision of what he wants at and what i would like to blockchain and smart experienced, the evolving touch and try—the fun of each stage of his career and see as if i was her. contracts will have a definition of talent to exploration—and there planning his schedule to massive effect on every- include micro-influencers are lots of interesting maximize his achievement. outside inspo: thing from the way we is going to expand into a ways that we can bring chelsea Vonchaz of incentivize our custom- more exciting and fluid that to life with augmented future impaCt: #HappyPeriod has created ers with loyalty points to model. Here the 20 per- reality, both in and out of Personalization will funda- a community around sup- influencer programs. the cent (or so) of consumers the store. mentally impact beauty. porting homeless women internet of things will also who feel passionately and prostitutes with period have a huge impact on about creating will be able Jain leads AlexAndre supplies and clean panties. beauty. as an example, to build, share and sell brand incubation Choueiri She is good to her core and sensors that detect your products or looks with at Unilever. preSidenT, when it comes to treating a face’s moisture level and consumers far beyond inTernaTional system that gives so many let you know when to ap- friends and family. We’re deSigner collecTionS, women access to clean ply moisturizer and which seeing versions of this l’oréal uSa period products she has one specifically to apply. already with younique, ¬ from pop-ups to found a way to scale it. but we should expect personalization, a in the very near future master at making future impaCt: a rich and dynamic set piyush JAin luxury brands cool clean products and of beauty models where general Manager and for millennials. formulas will continue to more fans are brands. vice preSidenT, hair impact beauty and every- care u.S., unilever Culture of Creativity: thing else that surrounds ¬ the mass master creativity comes by us. Humans are starting who knows how to think creating a safe environ- to wake up and want to do small, too. ment where people can the best that they can for moJ mAhdArA their body, whether it be experiment and bring new JAson ForBes Culture of Creativity: ceo and Founder, inside or out. ideas. i have a very pas- chieF digiTal and i) Start with defining the beauTycon sionate team that always Media oFFicer, coTy; north Star: a clear under- ¬ Creating tomorrow’s rises to the challenge and ceo, beaMly standing of where we want experience today and i also lead by example ¬ injecting start-up to go and the things we will building a community and like to get out of my culture into a corporate shelley hAus never compromise on. ii) that encompasses comfort zone to surprise behemoth. Svp brand MarkeTing, Making all our worlds col- everyone from Hillary and entertain my teams ulTa beauTy lide in the creative process. Clinton to Kandee and consumers. Culture of Creativity: ¬ the ulta-mate How can we use our rich, Johnson. We bring the outside in. brand builder. possibly unrelated, life outside inspo: We’ve launched a bespoke experiences to find new Culture of Creativity: i’m inspired by the people digital training program Culture of Creativity: solutions? Did you recently i am first and foremost in this country who foster tev Finger which is connecting clearly defining a watch a great play, read a student. i’m con- inclusion, diversity and Founder and ceo, an external network of specific business chal- an award-winning picture stantly asking questions, respect, which are critical luxury brand parTnerS start-ups and agencies lenge to solve actually book to your son, eat a researching, learning....i values to be successful ¬ Cracked the code of for our teams to engage helps unleash creativ- beautiful meal, visit a for- live curious and hungry. and relevant in today’s innovative models for with, learn from and trial ity because it sparks eign country or see some i’m pretty much obsessed world. i find messages bringing new brands new initiatives, products or new thinking. When the new graffiti on your street? with all that is new. from Dr. Martin Luther to market. ways of doing things. We’re challenge is too broad, is there something that King Jr. on the power of expanding a minimum you get watered you can bring into finding outside inspo: love and from Pope Francis Culture of Creativity: viable product model down, canned, or new solutions to meet the My son, because he’s on the importance of for- twice a year we do at coty to trial and been-there-done- needs of our consum- brand new and has a giveness and humility and all-company blue sky ses- test new thinking, so that ideas. Setting ers? iii) creating a team wicked smile for 10 weeks! my singing every week in sions where we force our- results can be more big visions and culture of celebrating both an african-american choir selves to think of creative quickly assessed throwing out big failures and successes. future impaCt: really inspiring for my day- ideas for our business. and iterated on. this ideas sets the tone the process of creating niche and diverse to-day life and work. We supplement that with also means not living for how we think something new is iterative. audiences are the drivers of monthly management in the bubble of our as an organization Failing and going back to what is new and cool. these future impaCt: off-sites where we go to own industry, but and gets people the drawing board repeat- audiences are the roots customers’ thirst for separate ourselves from learning how other thinking in bigger, edly should not be seen as of trends that everyone authenticity—real stories, the day-to-day. We’ve also verticals are tackling Coty created a bolder and more frustrating but as some- then follows. additionally, transparency—will adapted our work environ- critical consumer skill especially creative ways. too thing that is essential social platforms becoming continue to drive the ment to fit the mind-set of problems. We for Amazon’s many teams rely and in fact rewarded and shoppable has turned the beauty market. the younger employees, as see so much in Alexa. far too heavily on celebrated. iV) Doing seri- beauty industry on its head. they are critical to keeping travel, productivity, agencies and part- ous work, but not taking consumers crave ease and our culture fresh and hospitality and other areas ners. i believe that every ourselves too seriously. i convenience, and the fact cutting-edge. at our office, where integration with person on our team think my best when i am that we live on social media we have one floor which is consumer routine is critical should be a creative having fun, and i know it’s makes this colliding of an incredible social lounge for success. ideator. the same for my team. worlds just perfect.

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629_FEAT_Pathfinder.indd 2 6/19/18 6:35 PM the world. We’ve created reimagine them in real time, forgetting where i am a culture of diversity of time and this divine web of and why i am there, being thought where all ideas connectedness completely curious about anything are welcome in our online transforms the way we all that isn’t related to work, offices and all team mem- communicate. it has also walking, talking to my cat, bers truly contribute. My empowered collaborations looking at art, making art... teams are trendspotting, in more ways than ever. these all give me a fresh scouting expert speakers, i’ve found the most divine mind. in the end, the pro- hosting café discussion illustrators and artists and cess is not very different tiFFAny sessions and fostering faces from all over the from finding a boyfriend: mAsterson innovation constantly. world. not to mention, it don’t go looking for him. Dirty Founder, chieF forces brands to be more Lemon’s creaTive oFFicer, outside inspo: accountable to their fans outside inspo: pop-up. drunk elephanT i’m inspired by anything because the modern i really admire the Japa- ¬ Cleaning up in beauty creative, but especially beauty junkie expects nese artist takeshi Kitano. in more ways than one. music, both live and transparency in every way. i love his modesty, his future impaCt: makeup and fashion can recorded. i also love they demand to know the subtleness. His best mov- We believe in fast be artificially simulated in Culture of Creativity: streetwear, and i’m a self- truth and technique behind ies are those that you can beauty as a concept, as real life without physi- i always think of things proclaimed sneakerhead. every look and product; never predict what will hap- a means to deliver solu- cally changing your look backward and i never their voice is reshaping pen next. He also invented tions to consumers as or appearance. your view follow trends. i’m not in the future impaCt: the world of beauty and a comic improvisation style their wants, needs and of a person will be viewed beauty industry, in fact i live the mobile phone contin- shifting it into a whole new and called himself beat expectations continue to through a lens that can outside of it, so i really think ues to drive fundamental dimension. takeshi. i’m still looking accelerate and change. quickly change according of everything in terms of change around the world, for my second name, but i With this, ai technology to user preference. being a consumer and sat- McGrath often taps especially in emerging love the idea that you can alone, in enabling under- isfying my own needs and UGC for packaging. markets. it’s the platform have different personali- standing patterns and wants. i develop products where all tech compa- ties. i’m fascinated by the trends faster, anticipating based on what i’m missing nies large and small are fact that he also designed consumer behavior and in my routine so each one focusing their innovation. a video game, that he predicting production and feels like a very natural ad- coupled with the deploy- sings well and wrote 50 sales patterns, will enable dition to the line. ment of 5G and other poetry books. i’m amazed the right products to hit superfast networks, mo- by people who have no the right customers as outside inspo: bile will change people’s limits and who create their efficiently as possible. nike and apple have that lives in the next five years own world around them. cool factor that cannot be in ways we have only —clara Molloy replicated. they deliver imagined thus far. CArlA oAtes on innovation and style future impaCt: Founder and direcTor, and they are exciting…i Door-to-door delivery and The beauTy cheF have a lot of respect. a fully digital shopping ¬ where inner and experience have already outer intersect. future impaCt: been game-changers in a the concept of bio- lot of industries. amazon Culture of Creativity: compatible skin care has been changing the i find inspiration every- will change the beauty world, and we are just where—in art, design, industry forever. this is at the beginning of it in ZAk normAndin nature, in research jour- about letting the skin do this sector. coFounder and ceo, nals, in natural medicine what comes naturally to dirTy leMon beverageS and in the kitchen. i love it and feeding it what it pAt mCgrAth Makeup arTiST, ¬ serial entrepreneur experimenting with foods can absorb, recognize, Founder and ceo, whose latest venture and recipes and am fas- process and benefit from. paT McgraTh labS ushers in the era of cinated at how what we it is one step further than sms-based commerce. ¬ Creative genius eat has such a profound ‘clean’ skin care and it unleashed. medicinal effect on our takes into consideration Culture of Creativity: bodies. Walking also the health of the skin i’m most creative when i Culture of Creativity: really helps to boost my organ and its acid mantle, never. turn. Off. in real can step away from the creativity, and focus and the protective barrier that ClArA molloy life and online i want to chaos of the day and stay productive through- should be respected. coFounder and see and learn everything. spend time in my head out the day. While on a creaTive direcTor, Colette always be curious. Keep. without distractions. i like walk i find clarity of mind MeMo inTernaTional newBury and Hitting. Refresh. watching people, explor- and often come up with always keep your eyes mArk Curry ing new places alone, new creative ideas for open to everything. coFounderS, reading the newspaper, the business. Solutions be For beauTy riding my bike—anything to problems often come where i can spend time outside inspo: ¬ faster than a speed- to me, too, so when i get eVeRyOne. everything ing (lipstick) bullet. alone in my head. also, back to work, i have my can teach you new ideas. i’ve found that sleep is key tasks set as well as i’ve been fortunate to Culture of Creativity: one of the most creatively a renewed energy to get work with some major We start at yes. Most stimulating activities. them done. dennis mCeniry fashion legends, from John molloy businesses start at no and Some of my best ideas global preSidenT, photographers, editors and coFounder and convince themselves oth- have come from dreams. outside inspo: The eSTée lauder designers, but now i can preSidenT, MeMo erwise through traditional i’m most inspired by coS. online also interact with so much inTernaTional processes and thinking. outside inspo: people who live and lead ¬ the e-commerce czar talent online. if life inspires ¬ fine fragrance as Starting at yes challenges i’ve always been in a positive way, breaking who’s built a global you, you can bounce off you’ve never seen everything and naturally intrigued by subcultures. down barriers, which digital network for the what’s around you. it before. gets you to white spaces… Secret societies, gang allows other people prestige giant. and in our case…fast. culture, magic, the to benefit. punk movement—the future impaCt: Culture of Creativity: Culture of Creativity: Social media has revolu- creativity comes when outside inspo: commitment to a craft future impaCt: i travel with my team to tionized the beauty world. you least expect it, but you Music is a daily inspira- or lifestyle is inspiring in both in terms of inner large and small markets For the first time ever, must be open to receive tion in our office and is a world where styles and beauty and topical skin alike. We immerse our- beauty junkies are able to it. it doesn’t come from subsequently the Dna trends change quickly. care, the use of probiotics selves in the local culture connect at the speed of the inside but from the out- of the business. Jay Kay as an ingredient will con- to better appreciate light. i share looks, tips and side. i have to feel free as a from Jamiroquai is our future impaCt: tinue to gain momentum. how women experience techniques straight from bird. Pressure or routine do musical mascot for his augmented reality will lead While they have been a prestige beauty around the runway, fellow addicts not work for me. Losing my quirk, style and beats. way to a new world where bit of a buzzword in the

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629_FEAT_Pathfinder.indd 3 6/19/18 6:35 PM health and wellness world meant to be. i can only outside inspo: for a while, the beauty try my best to encour- i’m most inspired by mak- industry is taking note age girls and women to ing connections between of the building research respect their uniqueness things that are seemingly which highlights the ben- and be 100 percent true unrelated. For example, efits of probiotics for our to themselves. i like to study the latest gut and skin health. discoveries in mathemat- outside inspo: ics, read a book on ancient Michael Jordan is a legend philosophy and then watch JessiCA and what he’s been able to a whole season of “Game riChArds accomplish in his sports SoulCycle of thrones” with two cups Founder/owner, Shen career is outstanding. but for the of ben & Jerry’s—and then beauTy; head oF the way he’s transformed face. make connections across. beauTy and wellneSS, that into a timeless brand and, yes, i follow Scott Free people that stands on its own, Galloway and Dwayne “the ¬ where she merchan- and will live on forever onto your tongue like down that is essential in Rock” Johnson—finding the dises, others follow. without ever getting old… pixie sticks or a protein today’s fast paced, think- intersections for new ideas. shade that you drink in on-your-feet business Cyndi rAmireZ- that’s genius. Culture of Creativity: the afternoon with pack- environments. future impaCt: Fulton Fostering creativity and future impaCt: aging that says, “So you One of the things that Founder and chiller in new thinking is quite easy i’m inspired by women all don’t attack the bread outside inspo: has already impacted the chieF, chillhouSe for me. i somehow come the time, in their different basket.” i love that. She’s i’m really inspired by the industry and will do so at ¬ time out for up with the most insane personalities, skin tones, made wellness fun and young Millennial voices an ever-increasing pace is twentysomethings. ideas, whether while lifestyles and beliefs. accessible. today and the fact they the convergence of deeply driving, waking up in the beauty allows us to will truly change our human behaviors and Culture of Creativity: middle of the night or just celebrate and highlight all future impaCt: future. young activists technological acceleration; Our interns keep me walking down the street. of our different features. the concept of transpar- like emma Gonzalez give call it Digihuman. We see young and creative. also, the execution is the dif- beauty for all, that’s what i ency in manufacturing me the confidence that it transforming the beauty our future is in expanding ficult part ,as sometimes believe in. and localized ingredient our future will be positive. retail landscape: it’s not our physical spaces, they can be really off the sourcing will be a trend they are change agents. about on- or off-line but om- but also in cPG—so wall. Fostering creativity going forward. brands nichannel. it also impacts i’m listening to a lot of in my team/s is another may begin region- future impaCt: our media consumption, podcasts from industry story. i always say that no ally sourcing ingredients. ai, personalization and from online text-driven leaders. i just listened idea is a bad idea. throw Domestic farming in customization are three media like twitter just a few to “How i built this” it by me and if it sounds the u.S. has become so areas that will impact the years ago to photo to video with Sara blakely, and i interesting or feasible let’s technologically advanced, future of beauty across to VR/aR becoming ever- couldn’t be more inspired. find a way to make it work. organic and sustainably every step of the con- more important, still with a wise woman once told minded that we will begin sumer journey….whether the single-minded goal of outside inspo: me, always go big and then using more of our own it’s via new product or communicating with other country’s resources. simply a way to access Sophia amoruso has whittle down from there to diAnnA ruth human beings about our been my biggest source what is actually attainable. existing products. daily lives. of inspiration since the chieF operaTing early days of nasty oFFicer, coFounder, outside inspo: Milk Makeup Gal. the fact that she traveling, seeing and ¬ from cannabis-in- spawned a new (and experiencing others fused mascara to sticks refreshing) generation cultures is the best way galore, product devel- of entrepreneurs is so for me to be inspired. oper par excellence. powerful. i’m also forever Whether it is colors, smells a fan of norma Kamali— or a new activity, how can Culture of Creativity: she’s becoming the i implement those into my We’re always trying to epitome of a wellness life and my work. Jill poster woman. Her do what’s not already mArkus journey is inspiring out there. trying to cre- sCAlAmAndre inge theron future impaCt: ate what doesn’t exist preSidenT, ShiSeido stroBel Founder, FacegyM younger women to think transparency—members is actually very freeing Makeup, buxoM and preSidenT global Skin ¬ Boutique fitness about our bodies and of the public constantly because you’re not trying bareMineralS and perSonal care, for the face. businesses at a young have so much information to copy something. ¬ industry vet who’s procTer & gaMble age—to not think about thrown at them. How can getting older in a negative revamping shiseido’s ¬ ideas that are more Culture of Creativity: you get the truth to them We want to change the way way but to realize outside inspo: global color properties. than just skin deep. and gain their trust? Once people perceive and purvey we’re forever learning, bobbi brown just stepped it’s lost, it’s lost forever. beauty, which means we and forever hopefully into wellness with a really Culture of Creativity: Culture of Creativity: innovate on every level, innovating. fresh take. the wellness i keep my eyes and ears the best way to foster industry has been speak- open and enforce strong, new thinking is by al- whether that be disruptive service, new beauty tools future impaCt: ing to people one way, but on-going communication lowing people to fail. i or our next-generation at-home skin-care tools she’s speaking to people with both consumers and encourage my teams skin care. Problem solving will continue to grow. who are not wellness marketers around the to learn by doing, which and any start-up budgets People are increasingly junkies. if you read her world. it’s the balance means that they will fail are our biggest source of looking to find ways to packages or look at what of knowing how to listen, from time to time. this is creativity. take the spa experience she’s doing, like probiotic whom to listen to and fine as long as they learn

into their bathrooms and powders that you shake when to put the pencil from the experience. home. clean beauty will i also believe in giving outside inspo: i am super inspired by also continue to thrive. rihAnnA people space: micro- creaTor and Founder, Milk ushered the fitness industry both Mass brands will be management simply FenTy beauTy by in the era in “smart” materials forced to be transparent doesn’t breed creativ- rihanna of sticks. and apparel, as well as about what goes inside ity or new thinking. My hybrid sports science their products and will ¬ megastar turned simple ask of the team is and nutrition. i also follow eventually have to refor- master marketer. to have an intensely deep technology companies mulate as a result of this. understanding of their Culture of Creativity: target audience—i call with great interest. i hate the idea that you this #consumerobses- have to be perfect. i just sion—and to create things future impaCt: reject that at every cost. that are interesting and the advancements in digital i only know how to be new for that audience and audible diagnostics are me, and people thrive without regard to how really exciting, especially when they’re who they’re others may judge them. paired with customization.

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There’s a new crop of influencers in and Elle Brazil. She currently has 69,000 follow- As virtu A l town and, spoiler alert, they’re not real people. ers on Instagram. Virtual influencers—influencers who are Shudu, on the other hand, isn’t artificially influencers not human, but rather are digital creations or intelligent. Like a video game character, she’s an st A rt to build robots—are the latest to surface on social media, avatar, a 3-D work of art and an extension of her with Miquela Sousa, Shudu, Sophia the Robot, creator, Cameron-James Wilson. With 122,000 signific A nt Bermuda and Blawko leading the pack. Sophia followers on Instagram, Shudu exists solely in the the Robot is, as her name suggests, an artificially digital sphere and can only interact with other followings, intelligent robot who in October 2017, became avatars—so far, she’s posed with the 3-D versions the first robot in the world to be recognized as of real-life models Ajur and Nfon Obong. Shudu the questions a citizen in Saudi Arabia. Shudu, who recently does, however, look so real, she’s often confused made her fashion editorial debut on the cover of for a living, breathing, feeling woman. It’s debat- surrounding WWD’s Digital Daily, is a digital avatar. Little is able whether Rihanna’s viral Fenty Beauty brand known about the nature of Miquela, Blawko and knew Shudu wasn’t human when it reposted an their potentiA l Bermuda, though they are thought to be avatars image of her wearing its “Saw-C” plush matte imp A ct A re very with anonymous creators. lipstick. Fenty Beauty has since deleted its repost The distinction between these influencers is and the brand declined to offer comment on it. reA l, indeed. important. Sophia and Shudu, for example, are The most popular virtual influencer on the completely different. As an artificially intelligent Internet right now is Miquela Sousa. With 1.1 mil- by AlexA TieTjen robot, Sophia can automate, learn and synthesize lion Instagram followers, Miquela has appeared illustration by Spooky pookA information, thus taking on a life of her own. She on the covers of Highsnobiety and Berlin-based has interacted with real-life celebrities like Will publication 032c. She re-created an iconic Lil’ Smith, Cristiano Ronaldo and Chrissy Teigen, and Kim shoot for Paper Magazine earlier this year has posed for the covers of Cosmopolitan India and in February, Pat McGrath Labs named her ►

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andtheabilitydering youcan achieve tolearn technically,”not just ofren- level hesays. “The man influencers. who arepotentiallyequallyas engagingashu- formofart” influencers “anew calls virtual digitalofficerglobal chief ofShiseidoGroup, agrees.AlessioRossi, person. Butnoteveryone accruethecloutofa encer willever that she’spictures notreal.ButShudu,like, wow.” looks real.WithLilMiquela, youcanseeinsome gorgeous and Shuduisridiculously unbelievable. real ornot,” is artwork continuesJensen. “The line, andthetwo rumored publicity sparked stunt, many ahead- herInstagram“hacked” incident,a account.The conversation inApril, whenBermudaallegedly da—66,000 followers.Miquela becameatopicof beings Blawko—43,000 followers—andBermu- fluencers andothertimeswithfellowvirtual withreal-lifein- sometimes signer clothing, muse. as itsnewest influencers thesevirtual sion onwhether fake. completely NPD Group.“They’re the oppositeofauthentic,” says Jensen Larissa of toward authenticity. “A inthebeauty shift industry thecurrent against ers are,insomeways, go anti-influencers,asthey influenc- people,notcelebrities.Virtual everyday encer movementisthat influencersarereal, ramifications?What arethecultural encers have influencerlandscape? ontheexisting influ- who isn’t human?What effect willvirtual the prosandconsofworkingwithaninfluencer What aresomeof will beincreasinglypertinent. plications forthebeauty andfashionindustries ing—and attract stages, andaseachcontinuestogrowafollow-

fascinating— extremely “I finditartistically Jensen that a doesn’t believe On Instagram, Miquela posesinde- often “From there’s aconsumerperspective, confu- influencersisinitsearly worldofvirtual The

man usingcomputers.” creating what looksa lotlike ahu- are fascinated withtheconceptof link istoBlackGirlsCode.People tinues. “Ifyoulookat remarkable inandofitself,” hecon- to tellimmediately, whichispretty of thephotos,youmightnotbeable you weretoquicklyglanceat “There’sexample. anovelty factor. If live onlineasanavatar, SecondLife, whereusersbasically basicversionand Sims asthemost cofounder ofTribe citing Dynamics, you wanttobe,” says ConorBegley, like youorlooklike somebodythat creating avatars that eitherlook anyway? interesting, Part of “There’s muchaculture very whatBut first, makes themso theattention ofbrands—the im- have sincereconciled. oftheappealinflu- influencer, virtual they’re influ- virtual Miquela, the asanother real,live are some

has tostay can tella influencersaslongthey with theirownvirtual “Brands may them isequallyasengaging. with that canbeachieved ofperfection the level on theoppositeendof“authentic”spectrum, that istrulyengaging.” the ket. inthemar- feelisfreshandinteresting what they voiceorauthority looking forthenext toexpress influencer,virtual peoplearealways going tobe “Ifit’s and apparelsectors. Sage Group,whocoversthee-commerce,beauty trends,” says vicepresident of Dunst, Andrew differentent influencerswhotarget needsand you canhave allthesemicro-nichesofdiffer- tance ofmicro-influencerstothefoldbecause sway ofmicro-influencers.“It millions, arealsoindicative oftheincreasing lower countsinthetensofthousandsrather than always humansarebehindmachines.” themachines,forgettinging totrust at tohumans.We’reto machinesandnotjust nal,” hesays. “We ratio-you withrecommendations that arevery respondto because youtalktothemandthey itself. “Alexa Home andGoogle areinfluencers ofthecategory definition points totheexpanding from realinfluencerswitha it comestoa differentiator when fromtheirreal-lifecounterparts influencershavefollowers, virtual animportant this modelultimately dependsonthebrand. laborations.” ornot brands adopt Butwhether tomer, bethefaceofcampaigns andrelease“col- withthecus- influencers—tointeract own virtual canbecontrolled.”thought through,andtherefore Twitter It’s stream. augmented reality. “It’s and researches, advisesonandinvests in virtual Debra Davis, founderofNKLS,a thought hastobeputintothemessage,” says programmed intothemedium. be directly outfit lookslike on.” beauty industry. It’s the itwouldimpact before the fashionindustry good enough. Iwouldimagineitimpact to theirface,butit’s AR that peoplearedoingtohelpapplyablush how itlooksontheirskin.There’s some certainly of ithastodowithdemonstration andseeing says Begley. youget “When that peoplesubscribetoandfindinteresting,” aPRplay.than just Doesitbecomesomething For influencersexist Rossi notesthat whilevirtual ofwhomhave influencers,most Virtual fol- isifit’s question “The There’s alsopotentialforbrands tocreate their potentialforcontroversyisalso conceivably The a “With In powerthat ithasoverconsumers.” It that additiontothenovelty attracts factor influenceralso Rossi,theriseofvirtual showsthepowerofinfluencersand just story,” hesays, notingthebrand story influencer, virtual somuchmore authentic,nomatter whoistellingit. message can The brand pointofview: usedtotalking aregetting very and constructed morecarefully easytodemonstrate what an It’s notthereyet. just someonewitha notjust going tobecomemore arealinfluenceror intobeauty, so much pulseandcontent, bringstheimpor- company that timesthat

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6/20/18 5:22 PM

Model photograph by David urbanke; Makeup by Grace ahn using Dior; Hair by Helen Reavey using Mr. Smith at bryan bantry inc.; Model: chen Lin for iMG tHe b ot i n D ex lessened. Not for this crowd a Daily EDition june 13, 2018 1 Of the known female virtual Who's who in the land of virtual influencers. wardrobe malfunction or Logan influencers, both Miquela and Fashion. Beauty. Business. The Transformer Dead at 74 Shades of Victory Arthur Martinez on his DD Dominick designer European Court of serendipitous career. Dominick Avellino dies in Justice supports Christian Pages 28 to 30 car crash. Louboutin’s red sole. Paul-type fail, where the famous Page 14 Page 2 Shudu are women of color.

business Shudu iS aS You Tuber posted a graphic glamorouS aS Marciano “Black Lives Matter” is included any Supermodel, but She’S alSo a 3-d creation, Steps Down raiSing all kindS From Guess l il Miquela video on his platform that alien- of queStionS — in Miquela’s Instagram bio— and poSSibilitieS — for the faShion Board Role induStry. here She ● The brand and Marciano wearS noon by @lilmiquela agree to $500,000 in noor’S polyeSter ated viewers and caused Google misconduct claim payouts as right after her Gmail address— dreSS in her firSt the cofounder vacates his post faShion editorial. as executive chairman. for more on how By kari Hamanaka Shudu iS blurring the line between The #MeToo movement — and allegations to drop him from its Google of sexual harassment — have cost Paul Mar- digital and reality, which is a suggestion that she 1.1 million followers ciano his job. See pageS 10 and 11. An investigation into alleged misconduct against the Guess Inc. cofounder and chief image By creative officer has reached a close, with Cameron-James Wilson the longtime fashion executive stepping on Instagram down Monday as the firm’s executive chair- Preferred program, which sells man and the company revealing it will pay stands for the movement and out $500,000 in settlement agreements. The agreements, which are not confiden- tial, would resolve claims of inappropriate Continued on page 4

advertising to the top 5 percent business therefore, in some capacity, has known for: WWD List: 15 Fashion Being a pat McGrath content creators on YouTube. Companies moral values. AVATARAVATAR Up Capex Muse; posing for ● After some belt-tightening “One of the attractive elements last year, retailers are boosting Shudu—rather, her creator their capital expenditures this year, seeking to keep up paper Magazine, with consumers. CHICCHIC By Evan Clark is that you remove some of the Reinvention isn’t cheap — but fashion Wilson—seems to have moral highsnobiety can’t afford to stay the same. After a lean year in 2017, when many retailers hit what might have been rock bottom and closed thousands of stores, longer-term spending plans are up at and Berlin-based most of the large U.S. apparel companies. PR risks from influencers who A WWD list of 15 retailers and brands boosting their capital expenditures this values, too. Wilson told WWD year showed an overall increase of 18 percent. Leading the list with breakaway publication 032c; spending were Michael Kors Holdings and Ralph Lauren Corp., with plans for respective increases of 108 percent and 70 percent this year. (Not everyone is feeling may do something that could so flush: J.C. Penney Co. Inc., for instance, that the avatar’s message is one taking over prada’s cut its planned capital expenditures this year to $375 million, down from $395 million in 2017.) instagram at its impact their base of custom- Shang andrew editor: Badia; Market alex Style director: Continued on page 26 of representation and diversity. fall show. ers, given that everything this Shudu's WWD cover. “I want her to support develop- virtual influencer does is in a ing economies and industries controlled setting by the people who are managing and be a vessel for that,” he said. s hudu that account,” says Dunst. Asked for her thoughts on the fact that Miquela @shudu.gram In other words, “You’re not going to have Lil and Shudu are both women of color, Davis says, 123,000 followers Miquela at a nightclub getting stupid with some- “What are the implications and why did that hap- on Instagram body,” says Davis. pen? Is it because fashion and media has focused

known for: Virtual influencers’ looks are more controlla- on that blonde, straight-haired, cookie-cutter im- a fenty Beauty ble, too—though they are ultimately dependent age for so long? There’s a lot of mystery surround- repost of her on their creators’ design capabilities—which ing who created them. Is it a bunch of white men? wearing a “saw-c” plush matte lipstick; could be both a pro and a con. “They’re perfect Is it a multiverse of different people of different her wwd fashion because they don’t age, but that’s also a weak- ethnicities and genders? That’s what I would re- editorial debut ness,” says Davis. “There’s a point when it’s ally hope, otherwise it’s kind of like when Eminem going to become obvious that Lil Miquela isn’t started singing rap music,” she continues. aging and people who are looking at her go, “Everyone was like, are you just making money

BerM uda ‘That’s not authentic and that’s not my per- on black music or is this really real for you? And @bermudaisbae sonal experience anymore.’” he stood the test of time, while many others The power to create your own avatar could haven’t, aka Vanilla Ice. So are we going to have 73,000 followers on Instagram also impact the celebrity influencer sphere. an Eminem moment or are we going to have a Kim Kardashian, Rihanna and Miranda Kerr Vanilla Ice moment?” known for: an instagram could all create digital versions of themselves, Wilson is a 28-year-old photographer from “hack” with alleged for example, to interact online for them. Ceo and Weymouth, England. Sophia’s creator is Dr. David frenemy-turned- friend Miquela cofounder of HYPR Brands Gil Eyal, believes this Hanson, who hails from Dallas, Texas. It’s unclear could be a potential model as long as the avatars who Miquela, Bermuda and Blawko’s creators exist within a tightly controlled system. are, though all three seem to be operated by the “Celebrities are religiously married to control- same person or group of people. s ophia ling the content that appears around their name,” What’s most interesting about these virtual in- T he r o B o T @realsophiarobot he says. “They might do something like this, but I fluencers is that, like real-life influencers, they all don’t think it’s going to get to the point where every seem to have distinct brands. Bermuda formerly 70,000 followers on Instagram celebrity has a twin who’s a virtual celebrity. If they presented herself as an avid supporter of Presi- are, they’re going to be very tightly controlled.” dent Donald Trump, but, according to her most known for: The socio-cultural mores of virtual influenc- recent Instagram posts, has since changed her Becoming the world’s first robot ers is also interesting. For starters, Blawko is the mind about him. Blawko’s posts generally seem to be recognized as only known male virtual influencer—and he has to be about video games, rappers and streetwear, a citizen in saudi arabia the smallest following. This cultural fixation on and Sophia’s are often pop culture-oriented. fembots is nothing new—Siri, Amazon’s Alexa As people grow and change, their interests of- and the 2013 film “Her” are just a few examples— ten do, too. Will this be case for virtual influenc- and it’s highlighted even more by this incoming ers? How will their followers—and brands—react Blawko @blawko22 class of influencers. to their evolution? “Initial industrial engineering studies looked at It may seem ludicrous to talk about beings that 50,000 followers on Instagram why voices in elevators are always women,” says aren’t real in this manner, but ultimately, virtual Davis. “It’s because people don’t like being told influencers prove a major point about digital that known for: what to do and they view male voices as much for so long has been denied: What happens on his instagram friendship with more authoritative than female voices. People lis- the Internet doesn’t just stay on the Internet— Miquela and ten to their mothers—they don’t feel talked down there are real-life implications, too. Bermuda to. There’s something more nurturing and OK And like a virtual influencer, you no longer about a woman’s voice when people are already have to be real to resonate with real people. You afraid that computers are going to take over.” just have to be online. ■

wwd beAuty inc 33

629_FEAT_VirtualInfluencer.indd 4 6/20/18 5:52 PM after hours

French beauty exec Laurent Frydlender is living his childhood dream.

“Many people have hobbies or passions like playing golf, tennis or swiMMing. i’M a firefighter.” Laurent Frydlender, FDNY

a volunteer firefighter in the south of France after he started his career as a business executive, met New York City’s then fire commissioner Thomas Von Essen. Their friendship sparked immediately. The two men stayed in touch through visits, calls and faxes, and in late 1996, Von Essen invited Fry- dlender to New York, and over lunch offered him a spot in the FDNY, to work on everything from technology to apparatus, trucks to techniques. Frydlender agreed and became the department’s only French honorary deputy commissioner. “When I was in New York, I had the opportunity to sleep in fire houses,” he recounts. “It was crazy…[being able] to go with the battalion chief on a run. I was cook- ing with the guys.” He made many good friends, 17 of whom perished on Sept. 11, 2001. “I was touched like a New Yorker, and I was also touched like a firefighter,” he says. Frydlender was on the first possible ire” is an unlikely name for a plane to New York, worked at Ground Zero and big, sleepy basset hound, but it’s a attended memorial ceremonies with Von Essen. In Beauty’s “ far less improbable juxtaposition subsequent years, he was employed by other pack- than his owner’s dual-track career. aging companies, including HCP Global Cosmet- Laurent Frydlender is managing ics Packaging and Quadpack, while moving up the Bravest directorF of cosmetics packaging company Yonwoo ranks in the New York Fire Department, where he Europe and concurrently the honorary assistant was granted a uniform, badge and stripes. Most Jennifer Weil meets New York chief at the New York City Fire Department. “Many recently, in May 2015, Frydlender was awarded his people have hobbies or passions like playing golf, current title, of honorary assistant chief—inter- City’s most unlikely firefighter. tennis or swimming. I’m a firefighter,” says the agency liaison. “I think it’s my life,” he says of the French executive. Joining the FDNY was a child- experience, which has broadened his day-to-day hood dream made reality in 1996. Frydlender, who perspective. “It’s a balance between life and lip- served as a pompier in the French Army and was stick,” Frydlender says. ■

34 wwd beauty inc Photograph by Virginie Khateeb

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