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FOOD CULTURE Research Methods for Anthropological Studies of Food and Nutrition FOOD CULTURE Research Methods for Anthropological Studies of Food and Nutrition Published in Association with the Society for the Anthropology of Food and Nutrition (SAFN) and in Collaboration with Rachel Black and Leslie Carlin Volume I Food Research: Nutritional Anthropology and Archaeological Methods Edited by Janet Chrzan and John Brett Volume II Food Culture: Anthropology, Linguistics, and Food Studies Edited by Janet Chrzan and John Brett Volume III Food Health: Nutrition, Technology, and Public Health Edited by Janet Chrzan and John Brett Food Culture Anthropology, Linguistics, and Food Studies XXX Edited by Janet Chrzan and John Brett berghahn N E W Y O R K • O X F O R D www.berghahnbooks.com Published in 2017 Berghahn Books www.berghahnbooks.com © 2017 Janet Chrzan and John Brett All rights reserved. Except for the quotation of short passages for the purposes of criticism and review, no part of this book may be reproduced in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or any information storage and retrieval system now known or to be invented, without written permission of the publisher. Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Names: Chrzan, Janet, editor. | Brett, John A., editor. Title: Food culture : anthropology, linguistics and food studies / edited by Janet Chrzan and John A. Brett. Other titles: Food culture (Berghahn Books : 2017) Description: New York : Berghahn Books, 2017. | Series: Research methods for anthropological studies of food and nutrition ; volume II | Includes bibliographical references and index. Identifiers: LCCN 2016047921 (print) | LCCN 2016048830 (ebook) | ISBN 9781785332890 (hardback : alk. paper) | ISBN 9781785332906 (E-book) Subjects: LCSH: Nutritional anthropology—Research—Methodology. | Food habits—Research—Methodology. | Anthropological linguistics—Research— Methodology. Classification: LCC GN407 .F6595 2016 (print) | LCC GN407 (ebook) | DDC 394.1/20721--dc23 LC record available at https://lccn.loc.gov/2016047921 British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library. ISBN: 978-1-78533-289-0 (hardback) EISBN: 978-1-78533-290-6 (ebook) Contents XXX Introduction to the Three-Volume SetResearch Methods for Anthropological Studies of Food and Nutrition 1 Janet Chrzan Introduction to Food Culture: Anthropology, Linguistics, and Food Studies 7 Janet Chrzan Research Ethics in Food Studies 15 Sharon Devine and John Brett Section IV. Socio-Cultural Approaches Chapter 1. The Anthropology of Food and Food Anthropology: A Sociocultural Perspective 31 Geraldine Moreno-Black Chapter 2. Interviewing Epistemologies: From Life History to Kitchen Table Ethnography 47 Ramona Lee Pérez Chapter 3. Studying Body Image and Food Consumption Practices 58 Nicole Taylor and Mimi Nichter Chapter 4. Visual Anthropology Methods 70 Helen Vallianatos Chapter 5. On the Lookout: The Use of Direct Observation in Nutritional Anthropology 81 Barbara A. Piperata and Darna L. Dufour Chapter 6. Participant-Observation and Interviewing Techniques 92 Heather Paxson Chapter 7. Focus Groups in Qualitative or Mixed-Methods Research 101 Ramona L. Pérez vi Contents Chapter 8. Studying Food and Culture: Ethnographic Methods in the Classroom Appendix 1: Food Ethnography Course Syllabus Appendix 2: Food Ethnographies 112 Carole Counihan Section V. Linguistics and Food Talk Chapter 9. Introduction to Linguistic Anthropology Food Research Methods 131 Jillian R. Cavanaugh and Kathleen C. Riley Chapter 10. Food Talk: Studying Foodways and Language in Use Together 143 Jillian R. Cavanaugh and Kathleen C. Riley Chapter 11. An Introduction to Cultural Domain Analysis in Food Research: Free Lists and Pile Sorts 159 Ariela Zycherman Chapter 12. Food and Text(ual) Analysis 170 Kathleen C. Riley Chapter 13. Analysis of Historic Primary Sources 183 Ken Albala Section VI. Food Studies Chapter 14. Introduction to Food Studies Methods 197 Amy B. Trubek Chapter 15. Meaning-Centered Research in Food Studies 204 Lucy M. Long Chapter 16. Food and Place 218 William Woys Weaver Chapter 17. Sensory Ethnography: Methods and Research Design for Food Studies Research 228 Rachel E. Black Chapter 18. Methods for Examining Food Value Chains in Conventional and Alternative Trade 239 Catherine M. Tucker Chapter 19. The ingleS Food Approach: A Research Strategy in Nutritional Anthropology 253 Andrea S. Wiley and Janet Chrzan Index 270 Introduction to the Three-Volume Set Research Methods for Anthropological Studies of Food and Nutrition Janet Chrzan Th ese three volumes provide a comprehensive examination of research design and methods for studies in food and nutritional anthropology. Our goal is to provide a resource that bridges the biocultural or biological focus that tradition- ally characterized nutritional anthropology and the broad range of studies widely labeled as the anthropology of food, and food studies. Th e dramatic increase in all things food in popular and academic fi elds over the last two decades, accom- panied by vast changes in technology, has generated a diverse and dynamic set of new methods and approaches to understanding the relationships and interactions people have with food. Earlier methods books tended toward the biocultural per- spective of nutritional anthropology (e.g., Pelto, Pelto, and Messer 1989; Quandt and Ritenbaugh 1986) while more recent volumes have focused on food studies (e.g., MacBeth and MacClancy 2004; Belasco, 2008; Miller and Deutsch 2009) and applied work (e.g., den Hartog, Van Staveren and Brouwer 2006). Th e rap- idly evolving fi eld of food studies has generated a host of new perspectives and methods from a wide variety of academic backgrounds, many of which include anthropological theories and research designs. Because of the expansion of the fi eld and the recent rise of food studies, we saw a need for a comprehensive refer- ence volume to guide design and research across the full spectrum of food, diet, and nutrition studies. Th e set has eight sections, each of which can almost stand alone as a food methods volume for a particular subdiscipline of anthropology. Just as nutri- 2 Janet Chrzan tional anthropology and studies in the anthropology of food benefi t from a four-fi eld, contextualized approach, this volume assumes that research in food systems and nutrition relies upon four subdisciplines in order to eff ectively study the importance of food within human societies. Th erefore, in addition to sections covering biological/nutritional, sociocultural, linguistic, and archeolog- ical anthropology methods, we have included sections on public health/applied nutrition, food studies, technology, and statistics. Each section is anchored by an introductory chapter that chronicles the history of the study of food within that area of research or practice and provides a comprehensive discussion of pre- vious studies that have helped to defi ne current work. By examining where we have been in relation to what we are doing and where we are going, each section seeks to defi ne how current and future research can choose, adopt, and adapt the best methods to ensure high-quality outcomes. Each section is designed to provide readers with the background sources necessary for a fully comprehensive understanding of the use of methods for that area of study—a “pointing to” of studies and practitioners that have defi ned the fi eld so that the reader has a good understanding of what is necessary to conduct respectable food research using methods germane to that area of anthropology. Th e individual chapters provide case studies and examples of how these methods have been used by other social scientists. Th e chapters within each section form a complementary packet covering most of the major methods generally used by practitioners within each subdiscipline. We have included what might be called standard methods in the various sub- disciplines (e.g., participant observation, ethnographic interviewing, excavation techniques, site surveying, etc.) but have expanded this focus with specialized techniques and approaches that have emerged or become popular more recently, such as digital storytelling, GIS, bone chemistry, and the use of biomarkers. Th e authors write about the methods and research design for their topics from their own research experience, outlining how they thought through their research questions, designs, data collection, and in some cases analysis. Th ese volumes are meant to be a primary resource for research about food for not only the beginning student but also graduate students as well as research and teaching professionals who desire a better understanding of how their peers have tackled specifi c questions and problems. Each author follows a similar outline, with a short introduction to the method and its antecedents (covering key background/ historical literature and essential readings where applicable) followed by current discussions and uses of the method, including the gray literature where applica- ble (e.g., material from the FANTA projects, FAO, Gates Foundation, etc.) and then discussion of analysis and research design considerations, concluding with the references cited and further readings. Th e sections on further reading include key historical volumes, reviews, monographs, software links, and so on for back- ground or more in-depth exploration. Introduction to the Three-Volume Set 3 Th e eight sections were divided into three volumes by clustering areas of an- thropological research
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