Venice DIRECTIONS

WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Jonathan Buckley

NEW YORK • LONDON • DELHI www.roughguides.com 2

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For more tips, check out Adobe’s frequently asked questions for e-book users by clicking here. CONTENTS 3 162 163 167 167 168 171 172 174 124 131 140 148 157 ...... Useful StuffIndex 184 Colour Maps 185 Essentials 165 Language 177 Accommodation 155 Hostels Information City transport Museums and monuments and special events Festivals Directory The Canal Grande The northern islands The southern islands Apartments Venice San Marco Bus ServicesWater Main Arrival Hotels Eastern Castello 44 46 51 63 69 76 89 16 18 20 22 24 26 28 30 32 34 36 38 40 42 10 12 14 104 114 ......

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Places 49

Ideas 9 Introduction 4 Central Castello Festivals San Marco: North of the Piazza San Marco: of the Piazza West Dorsoduro and Santa Croce San Polo Cannaregio Museums and art galleries Renaissance architecture Eighteenth-century art Shops and markets Venice Death in Renaissance painting On the water oddities Venetian Multicultural Venice Scuole Authentic Venice and drink Food Venice Music in Crime and punishment The main islands viewpoints Venice Byzantine Venice San Marco: the Piazza

The big six Contents 4 Introduction to Venice

INTRODUCTION Founded 1500 years ago on a cluster of mudflats in the centre of the lagoon,Venice rose to become Europe’s main trading post between the West and the East, and at its height controlled an empire that extended from the Dolomites to Cyprus.The melancholic air of the place is in part a product of the discrepancy between the grandeur of its history and what the city has become. In the heyday of the Rialto dictated the value Venetian Republic, some of commodities all over 200,000 people lived in the continent; in the dock- Venice, three times its pres- yards of the Arsenale the ent population. Merchants workforce was so vast that from Europe and western a warship could be built Asia maintained warehous- and fitted out in a single es here; transactions in the day; and the Piazza San banks and bazaars of the Marco was thronged with people here to set up deals or report to the Republic’s government. Nowadays it’s no longer a buzzing metropolis but rather the embodiment of a fabulous past, dependent for its survival largely on the people who come to marvel at its relics. The monuments which draw the largest crowds are the Basilica di San Marco – the mausoleum of the city’s patron saint – and the Palazzo Ducale or Doge’s

Contents Introduction 5 INTRODUCTION A Cannaregio canal view

Palace. Certainly these are itineraries for a day and just the most imposing struc- wander – the anonymous tures in the city, but a roll- parts of Venice reveal as call of the churches worth much of the city as its well- visiting would feature more known attractions. than a dozen names. Many of the city’s treasures remain The Piazzetta in the churches for which they were created, but a sizeable number have been removed to one or other of Venice’s museums, with the Accademia holding the lion’s share.This cultural heritage is a source of end- less fascination, but you should also discard your

Contents Introduction 6 When to visit Venice’s tourist season is very nearly an all-year affair. Peak season, when hotel rooms are virtually impossible to come by at short notice, is from April to October; try to avoid July and August in particular, when the climate becomes oppressively hot and clammy. The other two popular spells are the Carnevale (leading up to Lent) and the weeks on each side of Christmas. For the ideal combination of comparative peace and a mild climate, the two or three weeks immediately preceding Easter is perhaps the best time of year. Climatically the months at the end of the high season are somewhat INTRODUCTION less reliable: some November and December days bring fogs that make it difficult to see from one bank of the Canal Grande to the other. If you want to see the city at its quietest, January is the month to go – take plenty of warm clothes, though, as the winds of the Adriatic can be savage, and you should be prepared for floods throughout the winter. This acqua alta,as Venice’s seasonal flooding is called, has been an element of Venetian life for centuries, but nowadays it’s far more frequent than it used to be: between October and late February it’s not uncommon for flooding to occur every day of the week, and it’ll be a long time before the huge flood bar- rier (which was begun in 2003) makes any impact. However, having lived with it for so long, the city is well geared to dealing with the nuisance. Shopkeepers in the most badly affected areas insert steel shutters into their doorways to hold the water at bay, while the local council lays jetties of duck-boards along the major thoroughfares and between the chief vaporetto stops and dry land. Reflection of gondolas in the Bacino Orseolo

Contents Introduction 7

 VENICE AT A GLANCE INTRODUCTION

The historic centre of The Basilica di San Marco Venice is made up of 118 islands, tied together by some 400 bridges to form an amalgamation that’s divided into six large administrative districts known as sestieri, three on each side of the Canal Grande. San Marco The sestiere of San Marco is the hub of the city, being the location of the two prime monuments – the Palazzo Ducale and the Basilica di San Marco – and the city’s highest concentration of shops and hotels. The San Barnaba district The San Barnaba

Dorsoduro Lying on the opposite side of the Canal Grande from San Marco, and stretching westward to the docks, Dorsoduro is one of the city’s smartest quarters, as well as the home of its university and the main art gallery. San Pietro di Castello

Castello Spreading north and east of San Marco, the sprawling sestiere of Castello encompasses many of Venice’s most interesting churches, its former industrial centre, and some of its grittier residential areas.

Contents Introduction 8 INTRODUCTION Murano

San Polo and Santa Croce Northern islands Adjoining Dorsoduro to the north, The nearest of the northern the sestieri of San Polo and Santa islands of the lagoon – San Croce are riddled with intricate Michele – is the city’s historic alleyways and characterful little cemetery; a little farther out lies squares – and it’s here that you’ll the glassmaking island of Murano, find the famous Rialto market. while in the outermost reaches you’ll find Burano and Torcello, Venice’s predecessor. Campo San Polo Southern islands Sheltered from the Adriatic by the Lido and its neighbouring sandbanks, the southern part of the lagoon has a scattering of islands, notably San Giorgio Maggiore and La Giudecca, the focus of some major redevelopment projects.

Cannaregio San Giorgio Maggiore The train station occupies a corner of Cannaregio, and most of the city’s one-star hotels are clustered nearby, but much of this district is tranquil and unaffected by the influx of tourists.

Contents Introduction Ideas Ideas Contents 10 In effect all of central Venice is one colossal sight, and you’d have a great time if you were to spend your days here just wandering the alleyways at The big six leisure. That said, there are several specific monuments and museums you really should make a The Palazzo Ducale The home of the doges was the nerve- point of visiting. Here are centre of the entire Venetian empire, and was decorated by some of the greatest six of Venice’s foremost Venetian artists. attractions, every one of P.54 SAN MARCO: THE PIAZZA which is guaranteed to amaze.

The Frari The gargantuan edifice of Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari contains masterpieces by Titian, Bellini, Donatello and many more. P.96 SAN POLO & SANTA CROCE

Contents Ideas 11 San Marco The mosaic-encrusted church of Saint Mark is the most opulent cathedral in all of Europe. P.52 SAN MARCO: THE PIAZZA

The Scuola Grande di San Rocco Rome has the Sistine Chapel, Florence has the Brancacci Chapel, and Venice has the Scuola Grande di San Rocco, with its overwhelming cycle of paintings by Jacopo Tintoretto. P.98 SAN POLO & SANTA CROCE

The Accademia In the Accademia’s magnificent galleries you can trace the development of painting in Venice from the fifteenth century to the eighteenth, the last golden age of Venetian art. P.77 DORSODURO

Santi Giovanni e Paolo The vast Dominican church of Santi Giovanni e Paolo is the mausoleum of the doges, containing some of the city’s finest sculpture. P.116 CENTRAL CASTELLO

Contents Ideas 12 The 118 islets of the historic centre could keep you fully occupied for weeks, but even on a short trip you should try to find time for an expedition to some of the outlying islands of the lagoon. Go to Torcello and you’ll The main islands be standing on the spot where the history of Murano Glass has been the basis of Murano’s Venice began; on Murano economy for seven hundred years, and there and Burano you’ll get an are still plenty of factories where you can admire the glassblowers’ amazing skills. insight into crafts that have P.141 THE NORTHERN ISLANDS been central to Venetian self-identity for centuries; and an hour on Giudecca will reveal evidence that the city is nowhere near as moribund as some people like to make out.

Burano The brightly painted exteriors of the houses of Burano give this island an appearance that’s distinct from any other settlement in the lagoon. P.143 THE NORTHERN ISLANDS

Contents Ideas 13 San Michele Located a short distance north of the city centre, San Michele is possibly the most beautiful cemetery in the world. P.140 THE NORTHERN ISLANDS Torcello The majestic cathedral of Torcello – the oldest building in the whole lagoon – marks the spot where the lagoon city came into existence. P.144 THE NORTHERN ISLANDS

La Giudecca Once one of the city’s main industrial zones, La Giudecca is nowadays a predominantly residential area that retains much of the spirit of the city prior to the age of mass tourism P.150 THE SOUTHERN ISLANDS

Contents Ideas 14 Girdled with water, replete with beautiful buildings, flanked by the sea and overlooked by the snow-capped peaks of the Dolomites, Venice is the most photogenic of cities. Stand on any bridge and you’ll have material for a dozen Venice viewpoints Venice photographs staring you in the face. For great panoramic views of the place, however, you should make a bee-line for one or more of these vantage Campanile di San Marco The cathedral’s belltower – the tallest points. structure for miles around – affords grand- stand views of the historic centre. P.57 SAN MARCO: THE PIAZZA

The walk to Sant’Elena A stroll from the Palazzo Ducale to Sant’Elena – the eastern limit of the city – gives you an unforgettable and ever- changing panorama. P.129 EASTERN CASTELLO

Contents Ideas 15 San Giorgio Maggiore The one thing you can’t see from the Campanile di San Marco is the Campanile di San Marco, which is why the best of all views to be had is from the belltower of San Giorgio Maggiore, across the water. P.148 THE SOUTHERN ISLANDS

The boat to Burano For a long-range perspective on the whole of the city, take a trip on the #LN boat from Fondamente Nove out to Burano. P.140 THE NORTHERN ISLANDS

The Záttere The southern waterfront of Dorsoduro, formerly a busy dock, is nowadays a perfect place for an unhurried stroll and café- stop. P.81 DORSODURO

Contents Ideas 16 The Venetian lagoon was first settled in the fifth century, by people fleeing from the hordes of Attila the Hun, and from its inception their confederation of tiny settlements owed allegiance to Byzantium. The cultural influence of Byzantine Venice the capital of the Eastern Roman Empire continued to be felt long Palazzo Loredan after the Venetians The Palazzo Loredan was founded way back in the thirteenth century; as was the achieved their political adjacent Palazzo Farsetti; together they independence. Signs of this now function as the town hall. crucial relationship are P.135 THE CANAL GRANDE evident all over the city, both in its churches and in its palaces.

Santa Fosca Standing next to Torcello’s cathedral, the plain little church of Santa Fosca clearly shows its Byzantine heritage. P.145 THE NORTHERN ISLANDS

Contents Ideas 17 Museo Dipinti Sacri Bizantini The city’s Greek community kept alive the tradition of Byzantine icon painting for centuries, as you’ll see in this museum. P.121 CENTRAL CASTELLO

Ca’ da Mosto Dating back to the thirteenth century, this picturesque Canal Grande palazzo is a superb example of the distinctive hybrid of Veneto-Byzantine architecture. P.134 THE CANAL GRANDE

San Giacomo di Rialto Traditionally regarded as the oldest church in central Venice, San Giacomo di Rialto is Byzantine in design and adorned by columns of ancient Greek marble. P.91 SAN POLO & SANTA CROCE

The Pala d’Oro The mosaics of San Marco owe much to the style of Byzantium, and Byzantine goldsmiths and jewellers were responsible for much of the handiwork on the astounding Pala d’Oro. P.54 SAN MARCO: THE PIAZZA

Contents Ideas 18 The Accademia packs a bigger punch than any other of the city’s museums and galleries, so if you have time for only one collection the choice is pretty straightforward. But it would be a shame not to sample the other offerings, which include comprehensive surveys of Venetian The Guggenheim political, social and For a break from the Renaissance, spend an hour or two with the Guggenheim’s fine maritime history, a array of twentieth-century art. superb overview of P.79 DORSODURO Museums and art galleries eighteenth-century art, and an assembly of some of the key figures of modern art.

Museo Storico Navale As you’d expect from a city whose wealth and power was founded on shipping, the naval museum offers a comprehensive overview of maritime history and technology. P.128 EASTERN CASTELLO

Contents Ideas 19 Ca’ d’Oro Once the most extravagant house on the Canal Grande, the Ca’ d’Oro today is home to an engagingly miscellaneous art collection. P.110 CANNAREGIO Ca’ Rezzonico Devoted to the visual and applied arts of the eighteenth century, the Ca’ Rezzonico contains several wonderful paintings and some frankly bizarre furniture. P.85 DORSODURO

Museo Correr Now joined to the Libreria Sansoviniana and the archeological museum, the Correr is a museum of Venetian history with an excellent art gallery upstairs. P.59 SAN MARCO: THE PIAZZA

Contents Ideas 20 An enduring taste for colourful surface decoration and intricate stone- carving is in evidence in Venice right to the end of the fifteenth century, long after the rigorous classical precepts of Renaissance Palazzo Grimani architecture had It took nearly twenty years to build the gained currency Palazzo Grimani, the most intimidating elsewhere in Italy. palace on the Canal Grande. P.135 THE CANAL GRANDE By the end of the following century, The Redentore Overlooking the city from the centre of however, the more the Giudecca waterfront, the Redentore is

Renaissance architecture the greatest of Palladio’s Venetian severe style of the churches. Padua-born architect P.150 SOUTHERN ISLANDS Andrea Palladio – whose buildings have become an intrinsic part of the image of Venice – had become the model for church design throughout Europe.

Contents Ideas 21

San Salvador San Michele in Isola Outside it doesn’t look terribly impressive, Designed by Mauro Codussi, this beguiling but the interior of San Salvador is an impos- little church was one of the first ing example of Renaissance orderliness. Renaissance buildings in Venice. P.64 SAN MARCO: P.140 THE NORTHERN ISLANDS NORTH OF THE PIAZZA

The Procuratie Vecchie The former offices of the administrators of the Basilica di San Marco fill one whole side of the Piazza, contributing to a magnificent architectural set-piece. P.58 SAN MARCO: THE PIAZZA The Libreria Sansoviniana and the Zecca Standing side by side opposite the Palazzo Ducale, the city library and mint were both designed by Jacopo Sansovino, the Republic’s principal architect in the early sixteenth century. P.61 SAN MARCO: THE PIAZZA

Contents Ideas 22 The eighteenth century was the period of Venice’s terminal decline as a political and economic force – with the coming of Napoleon, the Republic was dead. Yet the visual arts underwent a remarkable resurgence at this time, with painters such as Tiepolo Santa Maria della Fava (father and son), The two Giambattistas – Tiepolo and Eighteenth-century art Canaletto and the Piazzetta – can be seen together in the modest church of Santa Maria della Fava. Guardi brothers at the P.119 CENTRAL CASTELLO forefront. First stop for a survey of eighteenth- century art is the Accademia, then the Ca’ Rezzonico. After those, check out some of the following.

Palazzo Querini-Stampalia The gallery’s charmingly clumsy paintings by Gabriel Bella provide a fascinating chronicle of daily life in eighteenth-century Venice. P.119 CENTRAL CASTELLO

Contents Ideas 23 Angelo Raffaele The organ loft of Angelo Raffaele is decorated with an enchanting sequence of pictures depicting scenes from the life of St Tobias. P.83 DORSODURO The Gesuati As well as a superb ceiling by Giambattista Tiepolo, the Gesuati has altarpieces by two other giants of eighteenth-century painting, Giambattista Piazzetta and Sebastiano Ricci. P.81 DORSODURO

Palazzo Labia Giambattista Tiepolo was also the creator of some seductive secular paintings, a superb example being his work in the ballroom of the Palazzo Labia. P.106 CANNAREGIO

Contents Ideas 24 Venice is a small city, with a population of less than 70,000 in the historic centre, so it should be no surprise to find that it doesn’t have shopping streets to compare with those of Milan, Florence or Rome. But many of the big Italian fashion labels have Shops and markets outlets in the Lace Mercerie and to the west Like Murano in the northern lagoon, Burano has its own specialist handicraft – of the Piazza, and there exquisite lacework. are several places where P.143 THE NORTHERN ISLANDS you can buy something uniquely Venetian – and the Rialto remains one of Europe’s most characterful marketplaces.

Paper Decorative paper is another Venetian speciality, sold through various small outlets, such as Legatoria Piazzesi. P.73 SAN MARCO: WEST OF THE PIAZZA

Contents Ideas 25 Glass No trip to Venice would be complete without a visit to the furnaces and shops of Murano. P.141 THE NORTHERN ISLANDS

Masks Carnival masks are made year-round in the city’s numerous workshops, and their handiwork is amazingly inventive – MondoNovo is one of the very best. P.86 DORSODURO

The Rialto Once the most celebrated market in Europe, the Rialto is nowadays a more humble but still thriving operation, offering a fabulous array of fresh food – plus thousands of souvenir T- shirts. P.89 SAN POLO & SANTA CROCE

The Mercerie Running from the Piazza to within a few metres of the Rialto Bridge, the Mercerie are the busiest shopping streets in Venice. P.63 SAN MARCO: NORTH OF THE PIAZZA

Contents Ideas 26 Often devastated by plague and always prey to a host of swamp-bound diseases, Venice was inextricably linked with the idea of death long before Thomas Mann welded the two words together. The Death in Venice cemetery island of San Michele and the churches of Santi Giovanni e Paolo and the Frari are essential sights for tomb The Lido The beach and the grand hotels of the connoisseurs, and Lido provided the setting for Thomas elsewhere in the city Mann’s great novella Death in Venice and Visconti’s film of the book. there’s plenty to interest P.151 THE SOUTHERN ISLANDS the morbidly minded.

Campo San Polo Bullfights used to be a regular event on Campo San Polo, which also saw the murder of a member of Florence’s mighty Medici clan. P.95 SAN POLO & SANTA CROCE

Contents Ideas 27

Palazzo Vendramin- Calergi Richard Wagner died in the Palazzo Vendramin-Calergi in February 1883; the building is now home to Venice’s casino. P.131 THE CANAL GRANDE

San Giobbe The church devoted to the long-suffering Job is home to one of the city’s weirdest tombs. P.107 CANNAREGIO Campo Novo The stage-like Campo Novo, close to Santo Stefano church, is the lid of a vast pit for plague victims. P.73 SAN MARCO: WEST OF THE PIAZZA

Contents Ideas 28 From Jacopo Bellini and his sons (Giovanni and Gentile), through Giorgione and Carpaccio, to the mighty triumvirate of Titian, Paolo Veronese and Tintoretto, Venice nurtured some of the titanic figures of Renaissance art. To see some of the San Sebastiano best of that era’s The parish church of Paolo Veronese is a

Renaissance painting paintings you should treasure-house of pictures by the artist, begun before he had turned thirty. first visit the Accademia P.82 DORSODURO and Correr museums, the Palazzo Ducale and the Frari, then the scuole of San Rocco and San Giorgio degli Schiavoni. You’re still far from finished, though, because many of Venice’s churches retain the paintings they commissioned centuries ago.

Madonna dell’Orto Jacopo Tintoretto worshipped here, is buried here, and provided the church with a trio of mighty pictures. P.109 CANNAREGIO

Contents Ideas 29 Santa Maria Formosa A powerful image of Saint Barbara – a masterpiece by Palma il Vecchio – enhances a chapel in the church of Santa Maria Formosa. P.118 CENTRAL CASTELLO San Zaccaria A large and lustrous altarpiece by Giovanni Bellini is the highlight inside this wonderful building. P.119 CENTRAL CASTELLO

San Giorgio Maggiore Tintoretto left his mark on San Giorgio Maggiore too – the chancel contains a pair of famous paintings created specifically for the place where they still hang. P.149 THE SOUTHERN ISLANDS

Contents Ideas 30 A lot of people come to Venice thinking that the only way to get around is by boat, and are surprised to find that they spend most of their time – if not all of it – On the water walking from place to place, map in hand. But water is the lifeblood of Venice, and to appreciate the city properly you need to spend some time on the canals – and to take a Gondolas Once an everyday means of transport look at the Arsenale, the round the lagoon, gondolas remain the gargantuan dockyard that quintessential Venetian trademark. was the foundation of the P.171 DORSODURO Republic’s maritime power.

Boat passes The moment you arrive in Venice, buy one of the various travel passes that are on offer, for unlimited use of the waterbus network. P.169 ESSENTIALS

Contents Ideas 31

The Arsenale The powerhouse of the Venetian economy and the basis of its naval supremacy, the Arsenale was in effect a city within the city. Today it’s mostly disused, but still redolent of former glories. P.127 EASTERN CASTELLO

Traghetti Can’t afford a jaunt on a gondola? Never mind – hop across the Canal Grande in a stand-up traghetto gondola instead. P.170 ESSENTIALS The Canal Grande Get on board the #1 vaporetto for an unhurried survey of the aquatic high street of Venice. P.169 ESSENTIALS

Contents Ideas 32 Maze-like, car-free and dilapidatedly durable, Venice in its entirety is a very strange place, and no matter how many times you return to the city it will never lose its aura of extreme peculiarity. Some details of the

Venetian oddities Venetian townscape are stranger than others, though. Here are a few offbeat features that are bound to stick in the memory. The Scala del Bovolo The spiralling Scala del Bovolo features on thousands of postcards, but few visitors to the city ever manage to find it. P.66 SAN MARCO: NORTH OF THE PIAZZA

Venetian dialect signs The Venetian habit of slurring words and dropping syllables can produce some baffling names, none more so than San Zandegolà, or San Giovanni Decollato – Saint John the Beheaded. P.94 SAN POLO & SANTA CROCE

Contents Ideas 33 The Ospedaletto From the grotesque decoration of its facade you might never guess that the Ospedaletto is actually a church. P.118 CENTRAL CASTELLO

Santa Maria del Giglio The church of Saint Mary of the Lily is a monument to the glory of the people who paid for it rather than to the glory of God. Leaning towers P.71 SAN MARCO: WEST OF In a city built on mud it’s inevitable that THE PIAZZA some of the taller structures – such as the campanile of Santo Stefano – should lurch a few degrees off the perpendicular. P.72 SAN MARCO: WEST OF THE PIAZZA Gesuiti At first sight the walls of the Gesuiti seem to be hung with damask; look again, and you’ll see they’re made of something quite different. P.111 CANNAREGIO

Contents Ideas 34 As a thrustingly mercantile city, situated on the edge of the Mediterranean at the crossroads of Europe and Asia, Venice was always a place where a multitude of cultures mingled and did business. Many outsiders put down roots here and grew

Multicultural Venice into significant communities; others have Fondaco dei Turchi HQ of the city’s Turkish traders, the left fascinating evidence of Fondaco dei Turchi is now occupied by the their temporary residence. natural history museum. P.94 SAN POLO & SANTA CROCE

Scuola degli Albanesi Some lovely pieces of sculpture identify this tiny building as the former hub of Venice’s Albanian community. P.72 SAN MARCO: WEST OF THE PIAZZA

Contents Ideas 35 San Lazzaro degli Armeni The Armenian island of San Lazzaro offers one of the lagoon’s most intriguing guided tours, given by the monastery’s multilingual residents. P.153 THE SOUTHERN ISLANDS

San Giorgio dei Greci A precariously tilting tower marks out the church that for centuries was the spiritual centre of Venice’s sizeable Greek population. P.121 CENTRAL CASTELLO

The Fondaco dei Tedeschi Once bustling with German merchants, the Fondaco dei Tedeschi is today the city’s main post office. P.134 THE CANAL GRANDE The Ghetto The world’s original ghetto is home to but a fraction of its former population, but it’s still the centre of Jewish life in Venice. P.107 CANNAREGIO

Contents Ideas 36 The religious confraternities known as scuole are distinctively Venetian institutions Scuole – dating back hundreds of years, some are still in existence today. All of them were formed to provide material and spiritual assistance to their members, but some were considerably wealthier than others, as you can see Scuola Grande dei Carmini from the profusion of The scuola of the Carmelites is notable for artworks that embellish the yet another bravura ceiling by Giambattista Tiepolo. headquarters of the so- P.84 DORSODURO called Scuole Grande. The Scuola Grande di San Rocco is the most spectacular of them, but others repay a visit too.

Scuola di Battioro e Tiraoro Looking something like an overgrown cabinet, the tiny scuola of Venice’s goldsmiths is tucked alongside the church of San Stae, right on the Canal Grande. P.93 SAN POLO & SANTA CROCE

Contents Ideas 37 Scuola di San Giorgio degli Schiavoni The Slavs’ scuola features on many visitors’ lists of favourite places in Venice, on account of Carpaccio’s dazzling sequence of paintings in the lower hall. P.126 EASTERN CASTELLO

Scuola Grande di San Rocco Still functioning today, the Scuola Grande di San Rocco is the wealthiest and most lavish of all the scuole. P.98 SAN POLO & SANTA CROCE

Scuola di San Giovanni Evangelista The forecourt of the scuola of John the Baptist is one of the most alluring episodes in the Venetian cityscape. P.99 SAN POLO & SANTA CROCE

Scuola Grande di San Marco Now Venice’s hospital, the Scuola Grande di San Marco is a masterpiece of the early Renaissance, featuring carvings by Tullio and Antonio Lombardo, two of the major figures of the period. P.118 CENTRAL CASTELLO

Contents Ideas 38 Around fifteen million people come here each year, and on a summer’s day the influx of tourists exceeds the city’s population. Most of these incomers see nothing but the Piazza, and if you never stray far from the precincts of the Authentic Venice Basilica di San Marco it can seem that Venice has lost much of its San Niccolò dei Mendicoli soul to the depredations of Meander down to the western edge of Dorsoduro and you’ll come to this quiet modern tourism. Wander and ancient church, one of the most char- just a little further afield, acterful in Venice. P.83 DORSODURO however, and you’ll find plentiful signs of the survival of a more authentic Venice.

Campo Santa Maria Mater Domini With its parish church, crumbling old houses, workadays bars and artisan’s workshop, Campo Santa Maria Mater Domini is like a snapshot of an earlier age. P.92 SAN POLO & SANTA CROCE

Contents Ideas 39 San Pietro di Castello Marooned on the edge of the city, the former cathedral presides over a district where boat-maintenance is the main business. P.128 EASTERN CASTELLO

Campo San Giacomo dell’Orio The area around the church of San Giacomo dell’Orio is spacious and underpopulated, as it lies off the beaten track for the majority of visitors. P.94 SAN POLO & SANTA CROCE Northern Cannaregio On any day of the year, residents far outnumber tourists on the long canalside pavements of northern Cannaregio. P.108 CANNAREGIO

Contents Ideas 40 More than anywhere else in Italy, the division between bars and restaurants is often difficult to draw in Venice. Almost every bar serves sandwiches at least, while a distinctive aspect of the Venetian social Food and drink scene is the Wine bars bacarò, which is The Veneto produces more DOC (Denominazione di origine controllata) wine essentially a bar that than any other region of Italy, so it’s no serves a range of snacks surprise that it’s bursting with bars in which you can sample Valpolicella, called cicheti, plus Bardolino, Soave and Prosecco, the last a sometimes more light, champagne-like wine from the area around Conegliano. Al Volto has the city’s substantial meals. widest selection. Conversely, many P.68 SAN MARCO: NORTH OF restaurants are fronted by THE PIAZZA a bar, which may stay open long after the kitchen has shut down for the night.

Seafood Venice has dozens of restaurants, some very good, some very bad, some very expensive, many not, but almost all of them have one thing in common: seafood dominates the menu. Visit the Rialto fish market for an overview of what’s on offer. P.90 SAN POLO & SANTA CROCE

Contents Ideas 41 Cafés Europe’s first café opened in Venice in 1683, and within a few decades Goldoni had created a play in which the hero, a café owner, declared “my profession is necessary to the glory of the city”. Coffee culture is still crucial to Venetian life, with every parish having its busy café-cum-social-centre. P.62 SAN MARCO: THE PIAZZA

Gelati Every Italian city has its makers of sinful homemade ice cream, and Venice has some of the best. Don’t go home without sampling the products of Paolin, or Nico, or Causin. P.74 SAN MARCO: WEST OF THE PIAZZA

Cicheti and sandwiches Virtually all bars will have a selection of plump tramezzini (sandwiches) at lunchtime, and in many – such as the Osteria alle Botteghe – you’ll find an enticing array of cicheti, typically including polpette (small beef and garlic meatballs), carciofini (artichoke hearts) and polipi (baby octopus or squid). P.75 SAN MARCO: WEST OF THE PIAZZA

Pasticcerie Venetian pastries are as delicious as any in Italy. Look out for the Antichi Pasticceri Venexiani sign: membership of this group signifies high standards and top-quality ingredients. No standards – or prices – are higher than those at the famous Marchini. P.67 SAN MARCO: NORTH OF THE PIAZZA

Contents Ideas 42 The music written and performed in San Marco was imitated by composers all over Europe, and for a long time Venice was the world’s greatest centre for opera – around five hundred works

Music in Venice received their first performances here in the Monteverdi first half of the eighteenth The greatest of all Venetian composers wrote sacred music for San Marco and century. And Venice was operas for the San Cassian opera house, home to the composer of and is buried in the Frari. the Four Seasons, the P.97 SAN POLO & SANTA CROCE most frequently recorded of all classical pieces. As you might expect in a city with a dearth of native teenagers, the live music scene isn’t too exciting, but the university population ensures the presence of a few lively bars, some of which double up as live music venues.

Palazzo Pisani Venice’s conservatory of music is now housed in the vast Palazzo Pisani, the ostentatious home of the grotesquely wealthy Pisani family. P.73 SAN MARCO: WEST OF THE PIAZZA

Contents Ideas 43 Palazzi Giustinian The double palace of the Palazzi Giustinian was for a while the home of Richard Wagner, who wrote part of Tristan und Isolde here. P.138 THE CANAL GRANDE Paradiso Perduto Nightlife in Venice is pretty tame, but the buzzing Paradiso Perduto – one of Venice’s liveliest bars – often has live music and DJs. P.113 CANNAREGIO

The Pietà Vivaldi wrote some of his finest music for the orphanage of the Pietà, where he was violinmaster and choirmaster. P.121 CENTRAL CASTELLO

Teatro Malibran Closed for decades, the historic Malibran is now restored and back in business as the city’s main concert hall. P.123 CENTRAL CASTELLO

Contents Ideas 44 It may not have produced monsters to compare with the Borgias and the other murderous clans of Renaissance Italy, but Venice’s reputation was far from spotless: the Council of Ten (in effect the department of state security) was once The Piazzetta columns regarded with the Many a felon’s life came to an end on the executioner’s block between the twin same sort of dread columns of the Piazzetta, a place whose Crime and punishment as Stalin’s secret grisly aura lives on in Venetian superstition. police, and the city’s P.60 SAN MARCO: THE PIAZZA prisons were notorious far beyond the city’s boundaries. Various sites around the city have dark associations.

The Gobbo di Rialto Misbehaving Venetians were sometimes told to report to the Gobbo di Rialto for a particularly embarrassing form of punishment. P.92 SAN POLO & SANTA CROCE

Contents Ideas 45 Paolo Sarpi Brilliant scientist and dauntless defender of Venice’s independence from papal inter- ference, Father Sarpi fell foul of the Vatican and was targetted by its hired assassins. P.110 CANNAREGIO

The Bridge of Sighs Towards the end of your visit to the Palazzo Ducale, you cross the bridge by which prisoners were led to their cells on the other side of the canal. P.57 SAN MARCO: THE PIAZZA

Campo San Zaccaria In the ninth century a doge was murdered outside the church of San Zaccaria; three hundred years later another doge suffered the same fate. P.120 CENTRAL CASTELLO

La Fenice People went to prison for burning down the opera house in 1996, but many are sceptical that the real villains have been caught. P.70 SAN MARCO: WEST OF THE PIAZZA

Contents Ideas 46 Venice celebrates enthusiastically a number of special days either not observed elsewhere in Italy, or, like the

Festivals Carnevale, celebrated to a lesser extent. Although they have gone through various degrees of decline and revival, the form they take now is still related very strongly to their traditional The Regata Storica character. In addition to A flotilla of ornate antique boats makes its way down the Canal Grande to mark the these, Venice can boast start of the Regata Storica, the year’s big two of the continent’s most event for Venice’s gondoliers. prestigious cultural P.173 ESSENTIALS events: the annual film festival and the Biennale art show, which – as the name says – takes place in alternate years.

The Film Festival Glamour and controversy always share top billing at Venice’s annual film festival. P.172 ESSENTIALS

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La Vogalonga The “long row” is the most arduous of Venice’s numerous rowing races, inflicting 32 kilometres of suffering on the competing crews. P.173 ESSENTIALS

The Biennale It’s been going for more than a hundred years, and the Biennale remains the art world’s most prestigious jamboree. P.172 ESSENTIALS

Carnevale Italy’s wildest fancy-dress party fills the ten days leading to Shrove Tuesday and draws revellers from all over the world. P.173 ESSENTIALS

Festa del Redentore Celebrating the city’s deliverance from plague, the Redentore festival culminates with spectacular volleys of fireworks. P.173 ESSENTIALS Festa della Salute The Salute church is the focal point of another festival giving thanks for the restoration of the city’s health (salute) after a terrible pestilence. P.173 ESSENTIALS

Contents Ideas Contents Ideas Places Places Contents Places

Places Contents 51 San Marco: the Piazza The sestiere of San Marco – a rectangle smaller than

1000m by 500m – has been the nucleus of Venice from PLACES the start of the city’s existence. When its founders decamped from the coastal town of Malamocco to settle on the safer islands of the inner lagoon, the area now known as the Piazza San Marco was where the San Marco: the Piazza first rulers built their citadel – the Palazzo Ducale – and it was here that they established their most important church – the Basilica di San Marco. Over the succeeding centuries the Basilica evolved into the most ostentatiously rich church in Christendom, and the Palazzo Ducale grew to accommodate and celebrate a system of government that endured for longer than any other republican regime in Europe. Meanwhile, the setting for these two great edifices developed into a public space so dignified that no other square in the city was thought fit to bear the name “piazza” – all other Venetian squares are campi or campielli. Nowadays the Piazza is what keeps the city solvent: the plushest hotels are concentrated in the San Marco sestiere; the most elegant and exorbitant cafés spill out onto the pavement from the Piazza’s arcades; the most

San Basso Procuratie Vecchie PIAZZETTA DEI LEONCINI Palazzo a 2 Patriarcale 1 b Torre dell’Orologio

Basilica di Piazza Loggetta San Marco San Marco Campanile Porta della Rio di Palazzo Ponte dei Carta Scala Sospiri c 3 Libreria dei Giganti i Procuratie Nuove Sansoviniana (Museo Correr) Piazzetta Prigioni Palazzo Ducale Museo Giardinetti Reali Archeologico Entrance MOLO Ponte Zecca della Paglia i SHOPS Jesurum Ala Napoleonica c (Entrance to Correr, Missiaglia b Libreria & Museo Seguso a Archeologico) CAFÉS & PASTICCERIE Florian 3 Lavena 2 Quadri 1

Contents Places 52 extravagantly priced seafood is served in this area’s restaurants; and the swankiest shops in Venice line the Piazza and the streets radiating from it.

The Basilica di San Marco house him, and the Basilica di Open to tourists Mon–Sat San Marco was consecrated in 9.30am–5.30pm, Sun 2–4pm, though 832.The amazing church you see PLACES the Loggia dei Cavalli is open Sun today is essentially the version morning. All over Venice you see built in 1063–94, embellished in images of the lion of St Mark the succeeding centuries. holding a book on which is The marble-clad exterior is carved the text “Pax tibi, Marce adorned with numerous pieces evangelista meus. Hic requiescet of ancient stonework, but a corpus tuum” (“Peace be with couple of features warrant special you Mark, my Evangelist. Here attention: the Romanesque shall your body rest”).These carvings of the arches of the supposedly are the words with central doorway; and the group which St Mark was greeted by of porphyry figures set into the an angel who appeared to him wall on the waterfront side –

San Marco: the Piazza San Marco: on the night he took shelter in known as the Tetrarchs, in all the lagoon on his way back to likelihood a fourth-century Rome. Having thus assured Egyptian work depicting themselves of the sacred Diocletian and the three ordination of their city, the first colleagues with whom he ruled Venetians duly went about the unravelling Roman Empire. fulfilling the angelic prophecy. In The real horses of San Marco 828 two merchants stole the are inside the church – the four body of St Mark from its tomb outside are modern replicas. On in Alexandria and brought it the main facade, the only ancient back to Venice.Work began mosaic to survive is The Arrival of immediately on a shrine to the Body of St Mark, above the

EXTERIOR OF BASILICA

Contents Places 53 PLACES San Marco: the Piazza

THE HORSES OF SAN MARCO Porta di Sant’Alipio (far left); With its undulating floor of made around 1260, it features patterned marble, its plates of the earliest known image of the eastern stone on the lower walls, Basilica. and its 4000 square metres of Just inside, the intricately mosaic covering every other patterned stonework of the inch of wall and vaulting, the narthex floor is mostly eleventh- golden interior of San Marco and twelfth-century, while the achieves a hypnotic effect. majority of the mosaics on the There’s too much to take in at domes and arches constitute a one go: the only way to do it series of Old Testament scenes justice is to call in for at least dating from the thirteenth half an hour at the beginning century.Three doges (see p.55) and end of a couple of days. and one dogaressa have tombs in Simply to list the highlights the narthex.That of Vitale would take pages, but be sure to Falier, the doge who make time for a good look at consecrated the Basilica in 1094, the following mosaics, nearly all is the oldest funerary of which date from the twelfth monument in Venice – it’s at the and thirteenth centuries: the base of the first arch. west dome, showing Pentecost; On the right of the main door the Betrayal of Christ, Crucifixion, from the narthex into the body Marys at the Tomb, Descent into of the church is a steep staircase Limbo and Incredulity of Thomas, up to the Museo Marciano on the arch between west and and the Loggia dei Cavalli central domes; the central dome, (daily: summer 9.45am–5pm; depicting the Ascension, Virgin winter 9.30am–4pm; e1.50), with Angels and Apostles, Virtues home of the fabled horses. and Beatitudes, Evangelists, Four Thieved from Constantinople in Allegories of the Holy Rivers; the 1204, the horses are almost east dome, illustrating The certainly Roman works of the Religion of Christ Foretold by the second century, and are the only Prophets; the Four Patron Saints of quadriga (group of four horses Venice, between the windows of harnessed to a chariot) to have the apse (created around 1100 survived from the Classical and thus among the earliest world. works in San Marco); and the

Contents Places San Marco: the Piazza PLACES appurtenances is anunsurpassed appurtenances other ecclesiastical candelabraand reliquaries, icons, dazzling warehouse ofchalices, winter closes4pm; 9.45am treasury south transeptisthedoorof (finally) in1345. andagain Crusade, Fourth lootfromcumbersome the someoftheless incorporate Venetians in1209to thenby goldsmiths in1105, byrearranged Byzantine and enriched enlarged, the Constantinople, Commissioned in976 “ winter closes4pm; 9.45am d’Oro theastonishing treasures, huge 54 most precious ofSanMarco back ofwhichyou can seethe atthe thehighaltar, underneath Mark lieinthesarcophagus wall ofthesouthaisle. golden altarscreen Contents THE MOSAICS Tucked ofthe intothe corner Officially theremains ofSaint Agony intheGarden – – (summer Mon p,Sun2 5pm, p,Sun2 5pm, (summer Mon e e ” – – Pala . 2).This 1.50) 5pm; 5pm; – Sat – was Places Pala on the Sat – ’ the s Museum Card Entrancewiththe tickets 3.30pm. 5.30pm; Nov Finally,Venice central building oftheworld that ledRuskintodeclare it forms are basedonClassical interior courtyards andmuch ofthe whereas the Islamicized Gothic, canonlybecalled walls, tracery stonework andcontinuous patterned geometrically withits style ofitsexterior, the Ducale isauniquemixture: thePalazzo Architecturally, April Daily: The PalazzoDucale head oftheemperor ceremonially atthe be carried where itusedto Constantinople, one ofthemostrevered iconsin until1204itwas transept; north chapel ontheeastsideof of Nicopeia century thetenth- image, religious uoe andthe centralbuilding Europe, secular building ofitserain it is thefinest Unquestionably, – ablending ofinfluences Icon oftheMadonna – Oct 9am – March 9am Dalle Masegne. and Pietro Paolo (1394) by Jacobello and the Apostles Mark St The Virgin, marble figures of by surmounted the rood screen, Another marvel is symbols. religious abstract shapesand patchwork of it centuries, thirteenth in thetwelfth and pavement don body oftheBasilica, gold work. Byzantine silver and collection of – ’

standsinthe , Back inthemain s anintriguing see p.171 ’ s mostrevered ’ t overlook the – p,lasttickets 7pm, ’ s army. – . – p,last 5pm, laidout “ ” the . 55

The government of Venice Virtually from the beginning, the government of Venice was dominated by the merchant class, who in 1297 enacted a measure known as the Serrata del Maggior Consiglio (Closure of the Great Council). From then onwards, any man not belonging to one of the wealthy families on the list compiled for the Serrata PLACES was ineligible to participate in the running of the city. After a while, this list was succeeded by a register of patrician births and marriages called the Libro d’Oro, upon which all claims to membership of the elite were based. By the second

decade of the fourteenth century, the constitution of Venice had reached a form San Marco: the Piazza that was to endure until the coming of Napoleon; its civil and criminal code, defined in the early thirteenth century, was equally resistant to change. What made the political system stable was its web of counterbalancing councils and committees, and its exclusion of any youngsters. Most patricians entered the Maggior Consiglio at 25 and could not expect a middle-ranking post before 45; from the middle ranks to the top was another long haul – the average age of the doge from 1400 to 1600 was 72. The doge was elected for life and sat on all the major councils of state, which made him extremely influential in the formation of policy. The dogeship was the monopoly of old men not solely because of the celebrated Venetian respect for the wisdom of the aged, but also because a man in his seven- ties would have fewer opportunities to abuse the unrivalled powers of the dogeship. of Venice: it was the residence of From the ticket office you’re the doge, the home of all of directed straight into the Venice’s governing councils, its Museo dell’Opera, where the law courts, a sizeable number of originals of most of the superb its civil servants and even its capitals from the external prisons.All power in the loggias are well displayed. On Venetian Republic and its the far side of the courtyard, domains was controlled within this building. SCALA DEI GIGANTI The original doge’s fortress was founded at the start of the ninth century, but it was in the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries that the Palazzo Ducale acquired its present shape.The principal entrance, the Porta della Carta, was commissioned in 1438 by Doge Francesco Fóscari, and is one of the most ornate Gothic works in the city.The passageway into the Palazzo ends under the Arco Fóscari, which you can see only after getting your ticket, as tourists are nowadays directed in through the arcades on the lagoon side.

Contents Places 56

opposite the entrance, stands sixteenth-century artists the Arco Fóscari, facing the produced the mechanically enormous staircase called the bombastic decoration of the Scala dei Giganti. From ground walls and ceiling. Paolo Veronese level the traffic is directed up again appears in the Sala del the Scala dei Censori to the Consiglio dei Dieci, the room upper arcade and thence up the in which the much-feared gilded Scala d’Oro, the main Council of Ten discussed PLACES internal staircase of the Palazzo matters relating to state security. Ducale.A subsidiary staircase on The unfortunates who were the right leads to the Doge’s summoned before the Ten had Apartments (look out for to await their grilling in the Titian’s small fresco of St next room, the Sala della Christopher), then the Scala Bussola; in the wall is a Bocca di d’Oro continues up to the Leone (Lion’s Mouth), one of secondo piano nobile (see p.137), the boxes into which citizens where you soon enter the could drop denunciations for Anticollegio.With its pictures the attention of the Ten and by Tintoretto and Veronese, this other state bodies. is one of the richest rooms in Beyond the armoury, the Scala

San Marco: the Piazza San Marco: the Palazzo Ducale, and no dei Censori takes you back to doubt made a suitable impact the second floor and the Sala on the emissaries who waited del Maggior Consiglio, the here for admission to the Sala assembly hall of all the Venetian del Collegio, where the doge patricians eligible to participate and his inner cabinet met. in the running of the city.This Ruskin maintained that in no stupendous room, with its other part of the palace could lavishly ornate ceiling, is you “enter so deeply into the dominated by the immense heart of Venice”, though he was Paradiso, begun at the age of 77 referring not to the mechanics by Tintoretto and completed by of Venetian power but to the his son Domenico.Tintoretto luscious cycle of ceiling was also commissioned to paintings by Veronese. replace the room’s frieze of Next door – the Sala del portraits of the first 76 doges Senato – was where most major (the series continues in the Sala policies were determined.A dello Scrutinio), but in the motley collection of late event Domenico and his

THE SALA DEL MAGGIOR CONSIGLIO

Contents Places 57

If you want to see the Piombi, and the rooms in which the day-to-day administration of Venice took place, take the

Itinerari Segreti del Palazzo PLACES Ducale, a fascinating ninety- minute guided tour through the warren of offices and passageways that interlocks with the building’s public rooms. San Marco: the Piazza (Tours in English daily at 9.55am, 10.45am & 11.35am; e12.50, e7 with Venice Card, includes entry to rest of palace. Tickets can be booked a minimum of two days in advance on t041.520.9070; for THE PRISONS the next or same day go in assistants did the work. On the person to Palazzo Ducale ticket Piazzetta side the sequence is desk to check availability.) interrupted by a black veil, marking the place where Marin The Campanile Falier would have been Daily: April to mid-June 9am–7pm; honoured had he not conspired mid-June to mid-Sept 9am–9pm; mid- against the state in 1355 and (as Sept to March 9am–4pm. e6.The the lettering on the veil says) Campanile began life as a been beheaded for his crime. combined lighthouse and A couple of rooms later, the belltower, and was continually route descends to the Magistrato modified up to 1515, the year in alle Leggi, in which three works which the golden angel was by Hieronymus Bosch are installed on the summit. Each of displayed: they were left to the its five bells had a distinct Palazzo Ducale in the will of Cardinal Domenico Grimani, THE CAMPANILE whose collection also provided the foundations of the city’s archeological museum. The Scala dei Censori leads from here to the Ponte dei Sospiri (Bridge of Sighs) and the Prigioni (Prisons). Built in 1600, the bridge takes its popular name from the sighs of the prisoners who shuffled through its corridor. In reality, though, anyone passing this way had been let off pretty lightly. Hard cases were kept either in the sweltering Piombi (the Leads), under the roof of the Palazzo Ducale, or in the sodden gloom of the Pozzi (the Wells) in the bottom two storeys.

Contents Places 58

function: the Marangona, the largest, tolled the beginning and end of the working day; the Trottiera was a signal for members of the Maggior Consiglio to hurry along; the Nona rang midday; the Mezza Terza announced a session of PLACES the Senate; and the smallest, the Renghiera or Maleficio,gave notice of an execution. But the Campanile’s most dramatic contribution to the history of the city was made on July 14, 1902, the day on which, at 9.52am, it fell down.The town councillors decided that evening that the Campanile should be rebuilt “dov’era e com’era” (where it was and

San Marco: the Piazza San Marco: how it was), and a decade later, on St Mark’s Day 1912, the new tower was opened, in all but minor details a replica of the original.At 99m, the Campanile is the tallest structure in the city, and from THE TORRE DELL’OROLOGIO the top you can make out virtually every building, but not up through the innards of the a single canal. tower, to the terrace from which the Moors strike the The Torre dell’Orologio hour. The other tower in the Piazza, the Torre dell’Orologio (Clock The Procuratie Tower), was built between 1496 Away to the left of the Torre and 1506. Legend relates that dell’Orologio stretches the the makers of the clock slaved Procuratie Vecchie, begun away for three years at their around 1500, to designs by project, only to have their eyes Mauro Codussi, who also put out so that they couldn’t designed much of the clock repeat their engineering marvel tower. Once the home of the for other patrons. In fact the Procurators of San Marco, pair received a generous whose responsibilities included pension – presumably too dull the upkeep of the Basilica and an outcome for the city’s the administration of the other folklorists.The tower’s roof government-owned properties, terrace supports two bronze the block earned substantial wild men known as “The rents for the city coffers: the Moors”, because of their dark upper floors housed some of the patina.A protracted restoration choicest apartments in town, of the Torre dell’Orologio is while the ground floor was drawing to a close; when it’s leased to shopkeepers and over, it will be possible to climb craftsmen, as is still the case.

Contents Places PLACES San Marco: the Piazza 59 s a ’ s ’ .It ENTRANCE TO THE CORRER , be no which may s library. the Back in ’ At the furthest point of the the historical collection, which intermittentlywill be is Italian if your enlightening a have already good and you of wide knowledge pretty pass you history.Then Venetian an armourythrough an and small bronze exhibition of entering before sculptures the Museo Archeologico and scrappy somewhat uninspiring museum, look but Athena from out for a head of the fourth century BC, a trio of Gallic warriorswounded (Roman copies of Hellenistic originals) of and a phalanx Roman emperors. a door museum archeological opens into the hall of Sansovino Correr, the beyond a staircase section leads to the sculpture Quadreria rival for the Accademia for the rival nonetheless sets collection but of out clearly the evolution the from Venice painting in thirteenth century around to 1500,contain some and does gems, Jacopo including – March – ne re into re Places ’ è Venus s superb ’ , the civic , .When (the group 7pm; Nov – s stepson, Eug ’ Oct 9am Many of the rooms in of the rooms Many – ). . Museo Correr and some of the rough 5pm; last tickets 90min before Ala Napoleonica – Within a centuryWithin or so, the Nobody could make out that Nobody could make Contents see p.61 the Ala Napoleonica and Procu- the occupied now are ratie Nuove the by 9am closing. with Museum Card Entrance see p.171 Daily: April The Correr and archeological museums procurators were moved across moved were procurators premises, to new the Piazza the Nuove Procuratie Napoleon of Beauharnais,Viceroy the was Italy, he appropriated this palace,as a royal building and that the then discovered a lacked accommodation ballroom. He duly demolished of San Geminiano, the church which had filled part of the side of the Piazza,third and Nuove connected the Procuratie wing, with a new Vecchie and the facility. containing the essential museum of Venice, which is of museum joined to the archeological and Sansovino museum library,the Libreria Sansoviniana ( the immense Correr collection is consistently fascinating, it but incorporates gallery a picture up for the than makes that more duller stretches, and its sections society contain Venetian on exhibits.Thesome eye-opening first floor starts off with a gallery of Homeric by reliefs Canova, large self- whose enter; portrait as you faces you his display succeeding rooms Daedalus and Icarus that made his name at the age of 21), his faux-modest Italica clay models he created as first models he created clay drafts for his classically poised sculptures.After that you San Marco: the Piazza PLACES directed tothe it weren which you de 60 – later becameknown asElGreco that nurtured thepainterwho immensely conservative group an community ofGreek artists, room ofpictures from Venice alsohasa Correr Bologna.The painter from or Ferrara now given toananonymous but it much-reproduced image, Man inaRedHat painter ofthe was oncethoughttobethe raised aneyebrow. Carpaccio would havecontemporaries style atwhichnoneoftheir bourgeois ladiesdressed ina couple oflatefifteenth-century itdepictsa though infact known as bored womenterminally once Carpaccio isthe however, possession, family.The Correr roomful ofwork by theBellini anda Antonello daMessina, pieces by Cosm view of someremarkable Venice, there Contents From you theQuadreria ’ Barbari ’ s apicture by himhere ’ t forthelabel. The Courtesans ’ ’ s astonishingaerial d walk straightpastif painting oftwo Portrait ofa Portrait Young Museo del è Turaand another , ’ s best-known , Places ’ re THE PIAZZETTA,WITHFACADEOFBIBLIOTECA ’ s ’ s sculptor was stillinhisteens. whenthe created in1777, Canova ballroom tothe down acorridor Finallyyou suitcase. hair-care kit that portable eighteenth-century andan painting), Carpaccio byworn thewomen inthe eighteen-inch stacked shoes(as especiallyapairof catch theeye, the frivolous itemsare what Here trades andeveryday life. crafts, festivals, on Venetian passesthrough sections itinerary thenthe toNapoleon, fall ofthecitywithits the history Risorgimento stretch ofthewaterfront iscalled. asthis columns ontheMolo, between thetwo granite the usualsitewas thepavement also usedforpublic executions: favour.The Piazzettawas curry would gathertoschemeand of where thecouncillors Venice and thewaterfront open spacebetween theBasilica thePiazzetta existence, For much oftheRepublic The Piazzetta ’ s Orpheus andEurydice Orpheus – ashowcase for which resumes , ’ s thesizeofa – ’ was thearea re steered – the ’ s , PLACES San Marco: the Piazza ll ’ s s ’ ’ 61 ll ’ s about as ’ The finest www w Peerless and Peerless ne 61. s the nearest è – ’ s founder, ’ s first major building ’ Traditional-style the Giardinetti Reali the Giardinetti . – , legacy of the another è created by Eug by created in Venice,Zecca or Mint. the in Constructed and iron in stone (most it fireproof to make is just skin- Venice in stonework deep), between built it was on the site 1537 and 1545 since the the mint occupied by thirteenth rooms century.The part of the now are of the Mint library, not open to are but tourists. Beauharnais on the site of the state granaries. It you where place to the centre classiest. Venetian lace,Venetian at prices that blink. you make Murano glass, of it created much the firmby Sansovino Seguso Piazza San Marco 143, Shops Jesurum Piazza San Marco 60 Missiaglia Piazza San Marco 125. The Giardinetti Reali Zecca, the Beyond and behind a barricade and toy- of postcard gondola sellers, public is a small garden – of a find a bench and the shade tree, it in summer but peaceful as a school playground.The spruced-up at the foot of the building bridgenearby is the Casino da Caff Napoleonic era, the city now main tourist office. .seguso.it highly expensive gold and silver highly expensive firm a jewellery that from work Venice has a good claim to be Archimede Seguso. Archimede Places s courtyards, ’ s books and ’ t finished until 1591, two ’ One of the columns is topped One of the Contents The Zecca Attached to the Libreria, with its main facade to the lagoon, is manuscripts were first housed in manuscripts were and then in the San Marco Ducale,Palazzo finally it was but decided that a special building needed.was Sansovino Jacopo got the job, the library but wasn The Libreria Sansoviniana the by The Piazzetta is flanked (or Libreria Sansoviniana Marciana).TheBiblioteca the libraryimpetus to build the bequest of came from Bessarion,Cardinal who left his of classical texts celebrated hoard in 1468. to the Republic Bessarion The last personThe last to be executed Storti, one Domenico was here for in 1752 to death condemned of his brother. the murder a modern of a statue of by copy Theodore, saint of St the patron dependent it was when Venice on Byzantium; the original, now in a corneron show of one of Ducale the Palazzo a compilation of a Roman was torso, Mithridates a head of the Great, and and miscellaneous bits in the Venice in pieces carved fourteenth century dragon (the included).The lion on winged ancient the other column is an beast that was 3000-kilo bronze into a lion of St Mark converted under its jamming a Bible by paws. decades after his death. Contemporaries the regarded Libreriaof the supreme as one designs of the era, and the main hall is certainly one of the most in the city: beautiful rooms Veronese,Tintoretto, paintings by and others Schiavone Andrea and ceiling. the walls cover San Marco: the Piazza PLACES winter. Tues inwinter. Piazza SanMarco133 Lavena Piazza SanMarco56 Florian pasticcerie Caf 62 back around A simplecappuccinowillsetyou caf long beenthe thishas pastiche ofthatperiod, and mirrored inapassable andfrescoed Francesconi, Florian taxed another you musicians are playing, Contents LAVENA Opened in1720by é s and Wagner e e ;iftheresident 8; 4.50. – é tobeseenin. 59. Closed Wed in ClosedWed 59. – 3.Closed 134. ’ s favourite Places ’ ll be runner-up inthesocietystakes.runner-up something oftheairbeinga stuck with whilethenatives occupation, the patronized itduring officers as pretty.Austrian league as gallery overlookinggallery thebar. take atable inthenarrow little For privacy you can bracket trio. member ofthePiazza plaque inside)isthesecond caf Mon inwinter. Piazza SanMarco120 Quadri é (there Florian ’ s acommemorative Florian In thesameprice but notquite , anditstillhas , – 2.Closed 124. ’ s top- PLACES San Marco: North of the Piazza 63 , , the . Campo provide a provide Al Volto FACADE OF SAN GIULIANO the Palazzo – Mercerie ll find the most ’ s rebel army passing s rebel ’ s stroll of of s stroll ’ Museo Fortuny San Salvador Woman of the Mortar.The Woman it commemorates event happened on the night of June 15, 1310, when the occupant of this house, an old woman named Giustina Rossi, looked a and saw out of her window contingent of Bajamonte Tiepolo along the . And slotted away in a tiny . And slotted away and in town. Secreted in the folds in town. Secreted Places s lively at the end of the day is the s lively at the end of ’ , within a minute s museum buildings s museum buildings ’ enoteca s , the forecourt of the Rialto bridge and of the Rialto , the forecourt ’ San Giuliano , a chain of its mixture of its mixture – Scala del Bovolo favoured spot for an after-work chat. spot for an after-work favoured ’ Orologio and finishes Orologio ’ the Old – : Merceria

Mercerie Orologio, di San ’ saro degli Orfei, home of the degli saro

é Contents streets that startsstreets under the dell Torre shopkeepers at the Campo San Bartolomeo, route is the most direct and the San Marco between been a Rialto and has always Venice prime site for slickness and tackiness shoppers more ensnares other partthan any of Venice. (Each of the five links in the chain is a merceria dell Zulian, del Capitello, di and 2 San Salvador eye your Aprile.) Keep open for one quirky feature: the over Sottoportegodel Cappello (first left after is a relief Torre) the del Vecia as La known Morter San Giuliano The The Mercerie and Another square that Another square churches of churches most aggressive shopping mall in Venice. Only the mall in Venice. shopping most aggressive north to the Rialto bridge north to the Campo San Luca North of the Piazza of the North flows traffic bulk of the pedestrian the Piazza the From San Marco: San diversion from the shops until you come to the diversion from San Bartolomeo the locals the best-stocked delicate of Venice square close to the Canal Grande you close square P called the of the alleyways hereabouts is the spiralling staircase of the alleyways hereabouts San Marco: North of the Piazza PLACES

faith) are attested byfaith) the Greek (but nothisChristian brilliance munificence andintellectual His Tommaso Rangone. generous aidof thephysician withthe mid-sixteenth century 8.30am Fri 8.30am &Sat (Mon,Wed,Thurs San Giuliano fled. Tiepolo Seeing theirflaggodown, killinghimoutright. bearer, on theskullofstandard- andthemissilelanded her sill, knocked from astonemortar she Possiblybelow. by accident, 64

Rio

Rio di Ca'Santi di Rio

Vitae Torino Devil’s Forest Bácaro Jazz Al Volto Alla Botte BARS &SNACKS Contents Rosa Salva Marchini CAF Rosticceria Gislon Le BistrotdeVenise Al ContePescaor RESTAURANTS Sansovino Paolo Olbi Goldoni Fantoni SHOPS Stefano Further onisthechurch of Further di S. Angelo S. di S. É

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R C Rio dei Scoacamini dei Rio O The end of the right transept alvador OL Contents SE wonder of his continued wonder old age; in extreme creativity a scrap of paper on the rail in the records of the picture front August 25, death of the artist on 1576.Titian painted the also main altarpiece, a the tomb of Caterinais filled by Cornaro, one of the saddest history. BornVenetian in figures Venice into one of San S OR families, she became Queen of Cyprus marriage, by and after her husband to surrender the strategically crucial island to the doge. On led in her return home she was triumph the Canal Grande, up i d Bacino Orseolo San Marco: North of the Piazza PLACES ieo ap ai,asign side ofCampo Manin, wall ofthealley onthesouth occupation in1848 revolt againstthe Austrian thelawyer wholeda Manin, for themonument toDaniele enlarged in1871tomake room di Risparmio Venezia Luigi Nervi Luigi Pier one, building isamodern themostconspicuous unusually, Campo Manin Scala delBovolo Campo Maninandthe being hassledby theirowners. balance oftheboatswithout admire thestreamlining and of thefew placeswhere you can andone major gondoladepot, Bacino Orseolo viathe back tothePiazza, Calle Goldoniisadirect route From CampoSanLuca, outlets. gravity shifting thecampo temporarily time totime, setuptheirstallsfromtraders where market social centre, 66 recitals. use thebuilding fortheir of themusicians who seems tobeatthewhim but access many years, been completedafter Bartolomeo of the Venice.The restoration controversial in arrival the kidsin you want tojoin that is, you comefor n,anotheropen-air on), Salvatore andstraight the front ofSan Campo SanLuca(past you canretire to for you, istoomuch Bartolomeo ofSan If thecrush Bacino Orseolo Campo SanLucaand it Contents ’ s really the atmosphere church of San away from the f the from away McDonald ’ s Cassadi has atlast – – unless, – where, thecity ’ s centre of – 9 Onthe 49. ’ s – ,a was ast-food Places ’ s 10am Nov (April pay togoupthestaircase onthetheme.Youvariation can isthemostflamboyant 1500, datingfrom around specimen, but this the sixteenthcentury, feature of Venetian housesinto were acommon building, a way ofsaving spaceinsidethe as developed originally staircases, External Venetian dialect). (a known astheScaladelBovolo directs you tothestaircase ad hidden hand, The MuseoFortuny isclose at The MuseoFortuny the view from it. than of itisrathermore striking (1871 Fortuny Mariano Catalonia, in Born andkeep going. right, first turn the CampoManin, outof take eitherofthe bridges you bovolo ’ d never accidentallypass – – – April Sat&Sun April – 4pm; 1949) is famous chiefly 1949) is famous Oct daily10am is asnailshellin e away in a a in away ) but theview 3), SCALA DELBOVOLO – campo 6pm; – PLACES San Marco: North of the Piazza 67 The The best , people where The most Second only to pasticcerie s and é GOLDONI come on Sunday morningcome on Sunday to familybuy treats. Indulge at least once, a chocolate mobile or take phone home as a present. Fantoni for books on art. Sansovino Bacino Orseolo 84. Caf pasticcerie Marchini Calle Spadaria 676. Goldoni 4742. Calle dei Fabbri Paolo Olbi Calle della Mandola 3653. founder of this shop was largely founder of this shop was of for the revival responsible paper marbling; it sells a today whole range of marbled stationery. delicious and most expensive of delicious and most expensive Venetian general bookshop in the city; general bookshop in the an array of maps and also keeps posters. s ’ s ll find . ’ ’ s best ’ Places s biggest ’ re better off ’ ll probably if the ’ mercerie For the For – ll probably ’ t contain any of t contain any ’

s good, you unless, that is, you count ’

–

Contents Salizzada S. Luca 4119. Fantoni Shops The Mercerie, connecting the Piazza to Campo San Bartolomeo,Venice is major shopping district. Here you outlets for many of Italy Venetian the best-known brands, Furla, such as Mandarina Duck and Gucci, but for dis- you places Venetian tinctly looking on the other side of the Canal Grande, particularly around Campo San Polo Benetton,Veneto one of the companies, and the occupant of the biggest premises on the for the body-clingingfor the silk created, he dresses which were could they pleated that so finely a wedding through be threaded ring, claimed. it was However, also a painter, was Fortuny architect, engraver, photographer, designer theatre and sculptor, and the contents of this rickety and atmospheric his versatility, palazzo reflect with ranks of exotic landscapes, come-hither nudes, terracotta portrait busts, stage machinery and so forth.The has museum been undergoing restoration years, many for work should but it open you find you come out thinking that he come out thinking that glossiest, and most weightiest expensive art books. known for what he was best at, for what he was known and lamenting the fact that the doesn museum the sexy frocks. Design and exhibitions are photography often held here, and as a rule are than the interesting more permanent displays show have to queue,have is as the building so fragile that only 75 people in at one time. allowed are San Marco: North of the Piazza PLACES quality. higher fornoreal increase in are abit where prices upstairs, restaurant a lessrudimentary can but refuel quicklyandcheaply, Goodifyou needto counter. thenorder from the windows, at thelongtables alongthe aplace grab istofirst the trick to May. Tuesday evening from October eventsmusic andpoetry every with centre, community arts become somethingofa as attraction, atmosphere isthemain custom mainlyfrom thelocals. fish restaurant thatdraws its slightly surgical ambience. slightly surgical served ina good icecreams, andpretty very goodpastries city meals starting ataroundmeals starting pizzasandset serving snack bar, Downstairs it ClosedMon. Calle dellaBissa5424a. Rosticceria Gislon dishes aren andthe tosay theleast, variable, cicheti bothforfullmealsand recipes, based onold-style Venetian but themenu is French bistro, ofawood-panelledfacsimile This placeisdoneupasa thekitchenaround30minearlier. 1am, Barcloses at Calle deiFabbri 4685. Le Bistrotde Venise Closed Sun. Zulian544 Piscina S. Al ContePescaor Restaurants Salvador. Luca&MerceriaS. Campo S. Rosa Salva 68 Contents ’ ’ t face another pizza.There t face et many would say), s best, . The food and service are Thefoodandservice . Excellent coffee(the Fine (if pricey) little Fine (ifpricey) ’ nxesv,but the t inexpensive, Le Bistrot ’ s a sort ofglorified s asort T 041.522.1483. has e Places 7 – ’ s ncs too. snacks, good many not; some cheap, 100 ofthemserved by theglass, wines from Italyandelsewhere, true senseofthewordtrue and board gamesintheback. withagoodrangeofbeers pub, convincing ofaBritish facsimile anda Campo SanBartolomeo, liveliest barinthevicinityof a odcnb og,though. bar foodcanbedodgy, hit withcool Venetian kids.The themed barthat Open 11am Salizzada Fondaco dei Tedeschi 5546. B ClosedSun. 4081. Calle Cavalli Al Volto evening andallSun. Closed Wed Calle dellaBissa5482. Alla Botte Bars andsnacks a,closed Sun. 2am, Calle Sant Vitae closed Sun&Mon. 1am, Openuntil Campo SanLuca4591. Torino Daily10am Calle Stagneri. Devil dark littlebarisan excellent spread of an offering Bartolomeo, tiny food atlunchtime. ormore substantial sandwiches, for Good on Wednesdays. withlive jazzsessions loud bar, Manin, serving superbcocktails. serving Manin, ofCampo new bartothenorth straight asyou can. left andgoas first turn campo), Bissa (ontheeastsideof the alleys labelledCalledella to find confusing alleyways in Venice della Bissaisoneofthemost á caro Jazz bacar ’ s Forest Alla Botte ’ noi 18 Open until Antonio 4118. ò – justoffCampoSan , a,closed Wed. 2am, Trendy andtiny ’ s proving abig Well-hidden take eitherof , cicheti enoteca Lively and – 1am. – 1300 Calle . A jazz- This in the The – PLACES San Marco: West of the Piazza 69 È ll probably find ll probably ’ though in the – you enter another you enter – re after on or around re ’ s well-heeled or ’ Santa Maria del FACADE OF SAN MOIS reception area,reception Dutch a humble designer landscape or a new suit, then you what you Callethe broad Larga XXII Marzo, the which begins over the route to the the route , for instance, or the graceful , for instance, or the noon. – Places by the west side by the west Mount Saint “ , which rises at the end of one of the , which rises at the s also become a favourite pitch for s also become a favourite Venier, who ’ è , but there are things to see apart from the things to see apart from are , but there San Moisè

would be the would è 7pm, plus Sun 9am è winner of any poll for winner of any and – , the Venetians here s name means ’ re looking for an re ” . ’ Contents Leaving the Piazza Leaving the West of the Piazza West the city from drawn predominantly in Venice. squares largest and most attractive contrast to the frenetic Mercerie: here the clientele is here Mercerie: the frenetic contrast to the Canal Grande overlook the end of San Marco: San a that presents district, but one major shopping that five-star tourists staying in the hotels the from it years recent Accademia Milan and Paris from latest creations facades of Baroque extraordinary Giglio Santo Stefano this part of the city is just this part of the city African street traders. To a high proportion of visitors, proportion a high traders. To African street escritoire for your drawing escritoire for your room, an oriental carpet for the If you Calle Larga XXII Marzo the ugliest church in Venice.The in the ugliest church church runaway Moses the Byzantine custom following Testament of canonizing Old figures, while simultaneously honouring Mois back way paid for a rebuilding in the ninth century. Its delirious facade was sculpture Heinrich in 1668 by created Meyring; think this and if you of fauna and display bloated taste, flora is in questionable see the miniature till you wait as the main mountain he carved altarpiece, representing Sinai with Moses Receiving the Tablets San Mois San Mois Daily 3.30 San Marco: West of the Piazza PLACES Giannantonio Selva oldest andlargest theatre. by the Teatro laFenice,Venice square isdominated Fantin.The canal andintoCampoSan da Sartor Veste takes you over a Calledel ontheright, Marzo, Halfway alongCalleLargaXXII La Fenice corner. Vuitton lurkinground every Pradaand Ferragamo, Gucci, with namessuchas Versace, prosperous andtheirdwellings, the beautificationof of thePiazzaare dedicatedto the streets side offthewestern canal from SanMois 70 Pal. Contarini Contents Vino Vino Osteria alleBotteghe BARS &SNACKS Harry Da Fiore Da Carla Acqua Pazza RESTAURANTS Paolin CAF Marina Barovier L Legatoria Piazzesi Costantini Alberto Valese SHOPS delle Figure Domus Ciliota HOSTEL Novecento GrandCanal Monaco and Kette Gritti Palace Flora Fiorita Art Deco Ala HOTELS ’ S. Samuele Isola Ca' Rezzonico

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FREZZERIA PISCINA DI PISCINA awaits awaits (Mary of the Lily), more as Santa commonly known Maria Zobenigo, an alternative the name of from title derived the family who founded it in exteriorthe ninth century.The not a single features Christian image: unequivocally of the five the main statues are Barbaro brothers, who financed in of the church the rebuilding 1678;Virtue, Honour, Fame and at a respectful hover Wisdom distance; maps at eye and relief depict the towns level distinguished with the brothers aroli in the coursepresence of their military and diplomatic careers.

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S. Maria Zobenigo Maria S. di Rio SPEZIER C. D. C. del Giglio e Contents but the music scene was more scene was the music but Museo

Rigoletto 1 Fortuny

S. Benedetto

opened here), it became the against focal point for protests Austrian army. the occupying information for For on tickets performances, the route to the Accademia, to the the route odd church another extremely or Chorus Pass or Chorus Pass Santa Maria del Giglio Mon – Screw exciting in the nineteenth century, when, in addition to of operas staging the premieres Rossini,by Verdi Bellini and ( and Britten er Zaguri er R ZAGURI R San Marco: West of the Piazza PLACES established in1497andthe itwas Albanian community; ofthecity confraternity the Scuola degli Albanesi, building thatwas oncethe standsadiminutive Piovan, few metres used asanexhibitionspace.A whichissometimes Maurizio, deconsecrated church ofSan view over thevapid and (seebelow)Stefano loomsinto The tiltingcampanileofSanto Scuola degli Albanesi San Maurizioandthe the impietyofexterior. overcompensates for sculptures, with devotional pictures and tobursting full The interior, 72 Contents CAMPO SANTOSTEFANO FACADE OFSANTAMARIADELGIGLIO away, in in away, Calle del ’ s Places had beenstored there. Turkish gunpowder that barrels detonatingthe Parthenon, through theroof ofthe man wholobbedamissile elsewhere asthe is notorious but inthePeloponnese, victories became a Venetian hero withhis (1688 commander oftheRepublic last doge to serve asmilitary Grande endofthesquare.The attheCanal 2802, palazzo atno. Stefano Sun 1 belong tothelastphaseof ship Gothic doorway andbeautiful –

The see p.171 ’ -elro,bothofwhich s-keel roof, – – hrho Santo of church 4,FrancescoMorosini 94), 5pm; inhabitant ofthe from aformer Morosini Campo Francesco campo hasanalias Santo Stefano.The of thespaciousCampo closesoneend Stefano The church ofSanto Campo SantoStefano that. date from after shortly reliefs onthefacade (Mon ) isnotable forits e 2 or Chorus Pass2 orChorus – Sat 10am – thatcomes – 5pm, – PLACES San Marco: West of the Piazza 73 . Open Large (glass e (Frezzeria é (meaning

û ebr Calle Larga XXII Calle Larga and hence the alternative perle veneziane perle veneziane – .a range of shops for The best Valese not only produces not only Valese ALBERTO VALESE www.albertovalese-ebru.com beads) sold individually, made into jewellery, the bag or by to weight. according Legatoria Piazzesi 2511. Campiello della Feltrina Located near S. Maria Zobenigo, this long-established Costantini Campo San Maurizio 2668a. array of daily. the most luscious marbled Venice, also but papers in transfersonto silk the designs and a varietyscarves of ornaments; the marbling Turkish technique he uses is a called process cloudy) name of his shop. Alberto Valese 3471, Campo San Stefano w Vallaresso Marzo are La Coupolehigh fashion (Calle and Elys Larga XXII Marzo) and Calle Goldoni). – – St Calle Places ll find a ’ St Nicholas of Bari s house, is a forecourt ’ and a s richest banking ’ d expect, many of the top-flight

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Contents Versace, Missoni, Krizia, MaxMara, Trussardi, Gucci, Armani, Prada, Valentino, and Dolce e Gabbana (the only ones with a local connection) Venice,are represented in most of their to the west of outlets being clustered the Piazza, notably in Frezzeria, Italian designers and fashion houses As you Shops Palazzo Pisani Campiello Pisani, at the back of Morosini Nearby Campo Novo was Campo Novo Nearby of formerly the churchyard Santo Stefano, used as a and was burial during pit the plague of 1630. catastrophic corpses of the volume Such was interred that for health here closed the site remained reasons then until from to the public 1838. Campo Novo building.The airy and calm interior the most is one of just to Venice places in pleasant sit and think, it also contains but of art, works some major the picture-packed in notably sacristy, you where to the Palazzo Pisani,to the Palazzo one of the biggest houses in the city, and the Conservatory of now began on it in the Music.Work century, early seventeenth a century, for over continued to a halt at last brought and was the government,by who decided that the Pisani, among the city families, ideas getting were their station. above Lawrence Vivarini, Bartolomeoby a Veneziano, CrucifixPaolo by and a trio by of late works Tintoretto. San Marco: West of the Piazza PLACES ground to ae albeitatvery highprices. sale, appearances and Venice, inventive andbeautifulglassin what isperhapsthemost h etsd fFezra afew the west side ofFrezzeria, hidden down a Venetian glassartists. thedoyen ofmodernist Moretti, showcase forwork by Carlo Closed Sun. Sottoportego CorteContarina 1535a. Da Carla T Campo Sant Acqua Pazza Restaurants Stefano2962. Campo S. Paolin pasticcerie Caf w Salizzada SanSamuele3216, Marina Barovier Mois Salizzada S. L too. nice lineinpocket diaries, anda andcards, papers printed stunninghand- of printing; the oldwooden-block method paper-producer isthelasttouse 74 spacious environment. the bestincity)anairy, and Neapolitanpizzas(among goodseafood restaurant serving finest settingsinthecity. outside tables enjoy oneofthe some would arguethat it best icecream in but Venice, many tobethemakers ofthe appointment. ’ Contents Isola www.barovier.it 4.7.68 ClosedMon. 041.277.0688. é s and ’ Tiny bar-trattoria Angelo 3808, Causin This placedisplays – – contrary to contrary thestuffisfor è Mon . 1468. sottoportego ( see p.86 – Fri, plus Sat by plusSat Fri, Thought by Chiefly a ’ Places Classy s lost ).The off sample a It league prices. sandwiches anditscelebrity- its measure foritscocktails, inequal The baritselfisfamed do withglamourthancuisine. place are sceptics who thinkthe thoughthere created here), first raw strips ofthinbeef raw strips restaurants ( gourmet most reliable ofthecity Open daily. dishes andsalads. pasta dropping inforsimple is packed withworkers whichatlunchtimes this place, indication ofthecharacter “ battered old sign paces from thePiazza.The Calle Vallaresso 1323 Calle Vallaresso Harry does very good anteroom isanicesmallbarthat setting.The trattoria-style Venetian cuisineinaclassy restaurant genuine offers this popularmid-range Established inthemid-1990s, Closed Tues. Calle delleBotteghe3461. Da Fiore Pietro Panizollo ’ s reputation hasmore to ’ s Bar Bellini Often described asthe Often described ’ (fresh white s cicheti ”– – the T reading isafair 041.528.5777. place to carpaccio . – ’ was s – PLACES San Marco: West of the Piazza 75 . Tickets s La Scala and ll pay twice as ll pay ’ ’ La Fenice, the San Carlo, the on was ’ 041.24.24). up-to-the- For www.teatrolafenice.it 20, though you t minute information,minute visit w verge of reopening at the time at of reopening verge press.of going to Seat prices start at around will probably e night of a for the opening much production.The opera season to the late November runs from end of June, by punctuated ballet performances. box can be bought at the Fenice office,Venezia or at the Hello office at Calle dei Fuseri 1810 ( third-ranking Italian opera Italian third-ranking Milan house after Naples Opera La Fenice Campo San Fantin. Places Ver y ), which prosecco t great. ’ midnight, Tues. closed

–

Contents close to the Fenice opera house, close to the Fenice than this wine bar stocks more 350 wines. relatively It serves meals as well,inexpensive but the food isn Ponte delle Veste 2007.Veste delle Ponte Open 10am Vino Vino Calle delle Botteghe 3454.Calle delle Botteghe Sun. Closed sandwiches and Sumptuous snacks; most lunchtimes you need a shoehorn to get in the place. Osteria alle Botteghe Osteria alle Bars and snacks Bars and peach juice and peach was invented here. invented was 76 Dorsoduro There were not many places among the lagoon’s mudbanks where Venice’s early settlers could be confident that their dwellings wouldn’t slither down into the water, but with Dorsoduro they were on relatively

PLACES solid ground: the sestiere’s name translates as “hard back”, and its buildings occupy the largest area of firm silt in the centre of the city. The main draw here is the Gallerie dell’Accademia, the city’s top art gallery, while the most conspicuous building is the huge church of

Dorsoduro Santa Maria della Salute, the grandest gesture of Venetian Baroque. In terms of artistic contents the Salute takes second place to San Sebastiano, the parish church of Paolo Veronese. Giambattista Tiepolo, the master colourist of a later era, is well represented at the Scuola Grande dei Carmini, and for

Frari Giardino Piazzale Roma Papadopoli 1, 41, 42, 51, 52, 82, N Nome i Scuola di di Gesu Tolentini PIAZZALE San Rocco P ROMA

S. Andrea S. Pantaleone C. LARGA FOSCARI

CAMPO S. PA NTALON Rio Foscari FOND. BURCHIELLE Rio Nuovo F. DEL RIO NUOVO 1 Ca'Foscari CPL. DEI 2 SQUELLINI A Palazzi LLE NUOV CA N C. LARGO RAGUSEI RINI Rio della Cazziola NTA O CAMPO DI SANTA Giustinian Prison CO.CO T 3 N MARGHERITA A a t R LC i Ca'Rezzonico io A r 4 d e 5 i M h S. L g a M E r ar FONDAM. ROSSA D a b ia M M TTA . Scuola dei a E S g D i g O d Rio di S. Barnaba io B c Varotari r io e M R CAMPO S. BE Scuola dei F. BARNABA CALLE DEI GUARDIANI i Rio dell'Arzere in Carmini S. Maria m 6 ár F. GHERARDINIC 7 Maggiore Rio del Malcanton . C d S. BARNABA io Carmini F. D'ARZERE 8 R GA C. LUN C. Palazzo FORNO

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Accademia Villa C. BALASTRO e O S. Nicolò dei Angelo 12 Rio degli Ognissanti Maravege B S. Sebastiano Agli Alboretti MendicoliE Raffaele Ca’ Pisani F Rio di S. Nicolo N BASÉGIO DA SA La Calcina G LIZA SA ZATTERE PONTE Messner D Stazione UniversityPausania of C Marittima S. Basilio 82, N ArchitectureSan Barnaba A

Contents Places 77 an overall view of Tiepolo’s cultural milieu there’s the Ca’ Rezzonico, home of Venice’s museum of eighteenth-century art and artefacts. Art of the twentieth century is also in evidence – at the Guggenheim

Collection, which is small yet markedly superior to the PLACES city’s public collection of modern art in the Ca’ Pésaro.

The Accademia about 1pm, when most people Mon 8.15am–2pm, Tues–Sun are having lunch. Dorsoduro 8.15am–7.15pm. wwww.artive.arti The first room of the .beniculturali.it. e6.50. The Accademia’s generally Gallerie dell’Accademia is one chronological arrangement is of the obligatory tourist sights filled with pieces by the in Venice, but admissions are earliest-known individual restricted to 300 people at a Venetian painters, Paolo time.Accordingly, if you’re Veneziano and his follower visiting in summer and don’t Lorenzo Veneziano. Beyond want to wait, get there well here, room 2 is given over to before the doors open or at large altarpieces from the late

SHOPS RESTAURANTS Ca’ Macana a Ai Cugnai 10 La Nave d’Oro c Ai Quattro Ferri 6 Libreria della Toletta d Anzolo Raffael 12 MondoNovo CAMPO Casin dei Nobili 7 MANINb CAFÉS & Da Gianni 14 Piazza PASTICCERIE La Piscina 15 San CANAL GRANDE Marco S. Angelo 1 Causin 4 BARS & SNACKS CAMPO Il Doge 5 Ai do Draghi 1 S. TOMA Traghetto Nico 13 Cantina del Vino già Schiavi CAMPO 11 S. Tomà S. ANGELO Corner Pub 9 i 1, 82, N Da Codroma 8 S. Stefano Il Caffè 3 S. Marco Margaret Du 1, 82, N Champ 4 CAMPO S. M. d. SANTO Giglio STEFANO Punta S. Samuele della 82, N Dogana

tto e Dogana h g Seminario ra di Mare T Ca' Patriarcale A Rezzonico Traghetto Salute 1 1 alpaga S. Maria d Giglio 1 Rio S. M Barnaba Accademia 1, 82, N Palazzo Dario B P. DELL' S. Gregorio ACCADEMIA Rio dellaS. Salute Maria C. D. d Accademia Cini Guggenheim R.T. CATACUMENI della Salute R

F. PRIULI TOLETTA Collection Collection io della FornaD St. O 9 I N FOND. CA'BALA O 10 George L ÒR A C. DEL PIST Magazzini S I. FON ce A 11 E S. Trovaso del Sale R E E

D. N T C. LARGE NANI T A F Z R. T. FOSCARINI e ANI Casa degli N

FOND. BRAGADIN o S. Maria i S. Agnese s Incurabili Spirito a della Squero v FOND. BONTINI r Santo e Visitazione G . S S Gesuati i d . 15 G R.della Torreselle 13 14 Rio di S. Vio R I GESUATI ZATTERE ALLO SPIRITO SANTO LUNGO ZATTERE A Zattere 51, 52, 82, N 0 100m

Contents Places Dorsoduro PLACES and a of a series (c.1466), exquisite Outstandingare an Accademia. of whichare ahighpointofthe rooms 3 Venetian paletteare seenin softandrich characteristically light andtheemergenceof are definedby in whichforms Venetian obsessionwiththeway lute-playing angel. Temple The PresentationofJesusinthe isby himtoo: most charming andthe painting intheroom, Ararat Ten ofMount Thousand Martyrs ofthe Crucifixion andGlorification Carpaccio Conegliano and Cimada Giovanni Bellini, including works by centuries, fifteenth andearlysixteenth 78 mysterious ofItalianpainters, mysterious and two piecesby themost Contents The beginnings ofthe The beginnings THE ACCADEMIA Piet ihispet,wingless, withitspretty, , is themostgruesome , St George à

4 and5 by Giovanni Bellini, Carpaccio . Vittore thelast two , by Mantegna Madonnas ’ s strange Places Giambattista Tiepolo withpieces by occurs, into theeighteenth century Palma ilGiovane. completed afterhisdeathby and tomb intheFrari painted forhisown (1576), Titian Evangelist master by travelling tothe a slave whohaddefiedhis intervention attheexecution of Slave reputation: painting thatmadehis works by the satisfied hiscritics.Among emendation thatapparently an to changethetitle, insouciant response was simply sacred scene.Veronese and similarindecencies dwarfs, Germans, drunkards, to theinclusionof whoobjected the Inquisition, down on Veronese thewrathof In room 11 14) showing StMark (1548), ’ s highlycharged Tintoretto ’ hie Oppositeis s shrine. picture brought Last Supper called Originally Paolo Veronese the HouseofLevi needed for wall ofwhichis room 10 to comeinthehuge appetizers forwhat appetizers they are just but here collections, ofmany other prize works would bethe Renaissance.These High the Venetian the heavyweights of Veronese andLotto, Tintoretto,Titian, of mark theentry (c.1500). called Woman ofanOld Portrait Giorgione St MarkFreeinga Rooms 6to8 a majorshift Tempest and theso- “ buffoons, onewhole , this , ’ – s Christ in Christ is the his ” his ; Piet in the . by à The ’ s ’ s PLACES Dorsoduro s ’ 79 8. Oct e – . (1539), s wonderful ’ s glossiest ’ THE GUGGENHEIM and the second most – 6pm, April Tues; closed – www.guggenheim-venice.it In the early years of the In the early years The Guggenheim The Guggenheim 10am on Sat.open till 10pm w Guggenheim The Peggy the Collection is installed in peculiarly modernistic fragment of the quarter-built Palazzo dei Leoni,Venier a bit farther the Canal Grande. down century the leading twentieth lights of the Futurist movement for the partiescame here the dotty Marchesa by thrown Casati, fond of stunts who was setting wild cats and apes like loose in the palazzo garden, for lilac among plants sprayed the occasion. Peggy Guggenheim,considerably a discerning of the more patron arts, into the palace in moved 1949;death in 1979 since her the Guggenheim Foundation the place,has administered and has turned collection her private into one of the city museums door beneath Titian popular after the Accademia.popular after the It Presentation of the Virgin of the Presentation for the space still occupying painted. which it was , ) , Places Story of s ’ see p.99 s s ’ ’ is entirely The The Fortune-Teller Carpaccio room 20 room – 94.A superlative , Scuola painted for the – Orsola at San Zanipolo s impressionistic views of views s impressionistic ’ ’ Another remarkable cycle fills cycle Another remarkable The vast The vast Contents Guardi Venice, Longhi Pietro contemporaries provide the contemporaries provide of the next chief interest section, such as with works Piazzetta Giambattista extraordinary to extol the holy fragment it to extol the holy fragment had held since 1369. 21 room exercise in pictorial narrative, exercise especially the paintings are fascinating to the modern of as a meticulous record viewer domestic architecture, costume Venice arts in and the decorative at the close of the fifteenth century.After this room, you a Accademia through the leave documentary interiors a and series of portraits Rosalba by Carriera, few one of the very in the collection. shown women the cycle of filled by Miracles Cross of the Relic of the various by produced which was 1494 and 1501, artists between been commissioned by having the Scuola Grande di San ( Evangelista Giovanni St Ursula di Sant in 1490 Dorsoduro PLACES erc,flauntshis terrace, the Citadel Marini Marino Picabia andMagritte. Giacometti, Duchamp, Pollock, Chagall, Braque, includePicasso,artists other and Schwitters; and works by Malevich by Laurens andLipchitz, Cornell someofJoseph 1940s), inthe toErnst married (Guggenheim was Robing oftheBride of thePoet Red Tower and Brancusi the core pieces include collection the permanent In exhibitions. touring venueand aprime for twentieth-century art top-quality assembly of a smallbut generally 80 and Daily 9am Santa MariadellaSalute Guggenheim Peggy surrounding garden, are plantedinthe and others Paolozzi Moore, Giacometti, more decorous piecesby traffic; erection at the passingcanal accepted andlived just long old whenhisproposal was Longhena architect, its tobuild; half acentury theSalutetook wooden piles, ofmore than100,000 platform Salute ( the result della was SantaMaria and ifthecitywereMary saved, church would bededicatedto Senate decreed thatanew InOctober1630the three. population 1630 nearly 95,000ofthelagoon by aplaguethatexterminated Contents Maestra “ – salvation 31 Venice was devastated ’ salute oe,sculpture s boxes, ’ – s noon &3 MaxErnst , Baldassare outonthe , and Bird inSpace was only 26years , deChirico , – one person in oneperson ’ meaning s burial place. s burial ” Nostalgia ’ .Restingon a ). s Angel of – 5.30pm. ’ s “ ’ health s Places In ’ s ” Redentore ( much totheplanofPalladio in the Venetian calendar. della Saluteisstillamajorevent Festa dellaMadonna Giglio.The del laid from SantaMaria Grande onapontoonbridge crossing theCanal thanksgiving, of the Saluteforaservice processed from SanMarco to the the Signoria Virgin) (the Feast ofthePresentation of 1681. in enough toseeitfinished, – dramatically sitedvotive church obvious modelfora centralized planisa Mary the hugedomerepresents while forexample, star, Marian allude totheeight-pointed octagonal planandeightfacades symbolism.The Marian andtotherepertoire of The form oftheSaluteowesThe form Each year onNovember 21 SANTA MARIADELLASALUTE ’ s crown andthe see p.150 ) – the ’ s PLACES Dorsoduro s ’ , 81 The SS. 5pm, – 39), – 43, about squeri Pius V Crucifixion – (c.1740), s s fleet of ’ ’ s principal ’ (1737 . Scenes from the Sat 10am 2, Chorus or – ttere or Santa Maria del e á z by Tiepolo by 5pm; – Gesuati The first to break building were unloaded onto floating unloaded were rafts called your stride of your for is the church the Rosario (Mon Pass). in 1726 Rebuilt The squero di San Trovaso The squero di San thousand gondolas operated Ten on the canals of sixteenth- century Venice, when they were formthe standard of transport the city;around the nowadays all tourist well trade is pretty that sustains the city gondolas, hundred five around steady which provide for a few employment called. are as the gondola yards Museo Storico in the A display Vincent Ferrer, Giacinto and Luigi Beltran forerunner, Giambattista Piazzetta; opposite, the first altar has Sebastiano Ricci Sun 1 in seen to best effect which are the afternoon.The altar on third is this side of the church adorned of with a painting half a century the church after the order from over taken was the of the Gesuati by Dominicans, the first this was Giorgio designed by church Massari, who often an architect with Giambattista worked Tiepolo.Tiepolo painted the first altarpiece on the right, Virgin with SS. Catherine of Siena,Agnes Rose and magnificent and the three ceiling panels of Life of St Dominic with SS.Thomas and Peter Martyr (1739), the church completing array of Rococo propaganda on array of Rococo propaganda of behalf of the exalted figures Dominican orthodoxy, followed a tragicallyby intense on the (c.1555) Tintoretto by altar. third Places THE GESUATI Marriage at Cana ttima, a now are í s the first Apostle on s the first ’ 1.50).Tintoretto has e he ,of the sequence ttere and the Gesuati – s womb. arcane Less ’ á ttere á The most notable paintings in The most notable Contents waterfront pavements between pavements waterfront the and the Punta della Dogana Stazione Mar The Z as the collectively Known Z popular place for a stroll or an al popular place for a stroll pizza,fresco formerly were but most of the the place where Venice goods coming into bulky conventional symbol of the symbol conventional Virgin the left. (1561) included himself in the dramatis included himself in the personae of his the Salute are the Titian pieces the the Salute are the suppressed from brought of Santo Spiritochurch in 1656, in the displayed and now sacristy ( symbolism is at work on the on is at work symbolism Virginhigh altar, and the where (kneeling Venice Child rescue the plague (old from woman) woman); SS. attendance are in Giustiniani, Mark and Lorenzo Venice. first of Patriarch Dorsoduro PLACES consulting your of dictionary Mon San Trovaso oncecame.gondola-builders which many of Venice of theDolomitevillagesfrom reflection ofthearchitecture a an alpinefarmhouse, itlooksratherlike century, established intheseventeenth squero San Trovaso istheoldest of San Trovaso church.The Trovaso, ontheZ Venice isthesquero diSan and themostpublic onein ofaworkingfascination yard, demonstration canequalthe but noabstract gondola, through ofa theconstruction Navale ( 82 n oehtcaatres but and somewhat characterless, by separate doors. departed said tohave entered and but are here, and otherservices rivals celebratedintermarriages San Pietro diCastello.The tooktheirnamefrom Castello, SanMarco and Dorsoduro, of from thesestieri latter, dei Mendicoli( after thechurch ofSanNicol were named ofthecity, north coming from thewest and city were divided working-class citizens ofthe two intowhichthe factions the Nicolotti andtheCastellani, neutral ground between the this church was theonly built in1584 incarnation, this isthefourth twice beingdestroyed by fire; and down falling once, history, church hashadachequered foundation the tenth-century Sinceits Gervasio eProtasio. baffling dialectversion ofSanti Trovaso church saints forthededicateeofSan Contents nie San TrovasoInside, isspacious Venetian folklore hasitthat – Sat 3 Sat still functioning see p.128 – 6pm. – 1657. Don see p.83 – ) takes you thename á – ttere side ’ theformer, t bother ’ s – ,the ), Places ’ s a ò Chorus Pass to paintthe ceilingofthe his twenties whenhewas asked Tintoretto.Veronese was stillin Rocco inthecareer of comparable tothatofSan that gives ita place inhiscareer resplendent paintingsby him Veronese church of parish church ofSanSebastiano.The waterfront andtowards the deflect you of theStazioneMar of theZ one.first tothe chapel atninetydegrees thelatterisin Gothic style; practitioner oftheInternational (c.1450),Venice Horseback with altar, chapel totheleftofhigh Last Supper Temptation ofSt Anthony paintings by Tintoretto: it doesboastapairoffine Mon San Sebastiano but oftenclosed Suninwinter. SAN TROVASO – Sat 10am Sat á ttere the barred gates ttere thebarred by MicheleGiambono itcontains agroupof , St Crysogonus on St Crysogonus – .The former isinthe former .The away from the from away

see p.171 – p,Sun1 5pm, ’ s main Paolo í ttima . At theend – The 5pm and e 2 or – The PLACES Dorsoduro 83 .In Doge brother- Nicolotti ’ Campo , ringed by 6pm. or the – t Look Now ’ s oldest, said to s doge. ’ ’ s located on the s located on dei Mendicoli ’ dei Mendicoli is dei Mendicoli , the elected by was Don ò noon & 4 ò Gastaldo – ,head, whose titular the The church has been rebuilt The church dei Nicolotti parishioners and then honoured greeting from a ceremonial by the Republic grander of Giambattista visions Tiepolo, the Guardis in-law. Santa Margherita houses that date back as far as the fourteenth century, is the Campo Santa Margherita and the Carmini The vast, elongated essence, however, its shape is still Veneto-Byzantine that of the in the structure raised here century,twelfth of its the date rugged campanile.The other of the conspicuous feature exterior is the fifteenth-century porch, a type of construction Venice, and once common in as makeshift often used here accommodation for penurious nuns.The interior is a of periodsmiscellany and styles. of the apse and the Parts go back to columns of the nave century,the twelfth the but that gildeddarkened woodwork the interiorgives its rather appearanceovercast installed was late in the sixteenth century, as of the paintings. most were and altered at various times,and altered and in the 1970s, last restored was as a when Nic Roeg used it setting for San Nicol Daily 10am Although it city,edge of the of church the San Nicol Venice one of the been founded in have century.seventh Its long history in the fact reflected that it was its name to the gave faction so-called . The Places t kill At the ’ (on the in front of in front St Sebastian – s tomb slab. 6pm. ’ – Coronation of the Coronation Four Evangelists St Nicholas , and on the right noon & 4 s sure which).Althoughs sure ’ – s choir at the end of the ’ of and the and the on the left, – Contents back of San Sebastiano, the of church seventeenth-century Angelo Raffaele is instantly huge the two by recognizable memorialswar on the blazoned canal facade. Inside, the organ the entrance on the loft above canal side is decorated with Tobias Scenes from the Life of St (accompanied, ever, as his by little dog), one or painted by brothers other of the Guardi (nobody small in scale, the free and imaginative brushwork the panels composition make among the most charming Rococo,Venetian a examples of fascinating counterpoint to the Daily 8am Angelo Raffaele sacristy with a Virgin (1555); commission once that had been carried out, he ceiling with nave decorated the Life of St Esther Scenes from the His next project, dome of the the chancel, destroyed, later was he and his the sequence but Benedetto then painted brother and of the church on the walls the nun Leads SS. and Marcellian to Mark Martyrdom Second Martyrdom of St Sebastian (the customarily depicted didn arrows torture by him). Other richesa late include Titian of the first chapel on left wall the right), and the early sixteenth-century majolica in the chapel to the pavement left of the chancel 1550s has survived in pretty 1550s has survived good shape. In the following the last of decade he executed the pictures, those on the organ shutters the high and around altar which is Veronese which is Dorsoduro PLACES Sun 9am Mon hall. wonderful ceilingof theupstairs in the1740spainted of effectively ashowcase fortheart Grande ( raised tothestatusofaScuola whichin1767was complex, core ofthis acquired.The redesign theproperty they had (April Scuola GrandedeiCarmini – 1660s they calledinanarchitect andinthe immensely wealthy, Venetian became Carmelites the elsewhere inEurope, happened Protestantism.As a response to theinroads of as couldbedisseminated, Virgin through whomthecultof became theshock-troops whenthey Reformation, theCounter- during blossomed the Carmelites the closeoftwelfth century, inPalestine towardsOriginating Venetian baseoftheCarmelites. 9am series of Baroque paintings series dull basilicaninterior.A century andafourteenth- fragments, preserves several Byzantine a Gothicsidedoorway which facade, with asixteenth-century collage ofarchitectural styles, 7.30am (Mon delCarmelo Maria The Santa MariadelCarmelo Margherita feel. whole hasavaguely alternative campo university hangoutinthe Studentsfrom thenearby stalls. daily tostockupatthemarket of whoseinhabitantscomehere many ofDorsoduro, social heart 84 probably Longhena Contents Just offCampoSanta Giambattista Tiepolo – Carmini – 1pm; – Sat 9am ’ as andtheplaceasa s bars, Oct Mon – noon &2.30 – see p.98 p;Nov 1pm; ’ e s southwest tipisthe ) oncethe 5), – hrh orSanta church, p,Sun 4pm, – ,isnow ), Sat 9am – March – – p) isa 7pm), to Places – – who , Sat 6pm, opposite sideofthenave. Italian art Italian art most beautifullandscapesinall Berenson ranked asoneofthe whatBernard featuring Nicholas ofBari Nicholas andLorenzo Lotto 1510), Cima daConegliano(before fondamenta you passthe before theendof Just church ofSanBarnaba. tothe which afondamenta runs along the RiodiSanBarnaba, church takesCarmini you over Cutting down thesideof San Barnaba The PontedeiPugniand on the right hasa on theright but thesecondaltar space inside, order coversCarmelite alotof ofthe illustrating thehistory SANTA MARIADELCARMELO – hangsonthe (1529) Nativity – Ponte ’ s by St PLACES Dorsoduro by 85 ,a s ’ room Brustolon Nobility and are introduced are Giambattista Allegory of Merit with the ceiling s never been one of been one s never s marriage into the ’ ’ an and his son – .The less fervid room 2 room A man in constant demand in A man in constant , with its array of pastels by museum. It Venice of popular the most museums, a recently but might go completed renovation its to rectifying some way unjustified neglect. the early part of the eighteenth centurythe Belluno was sculptor-cum-woodcarver Brustolon,Andrea of much of whose output consisted of wildly elaborate pieces furniture, the by exemplified in the stuff on show Room imaginations of Tiepolo Giandomenico in celebrating Ludovico fresco Rezzonico Savorgnan hugely powerful family in 1758. Beyond 4 Rosalba Carriera, to come you Tiepolo ceilings, other two the rooms enlivening the Canal Grande overlooking on each side of the main portego Giambattista and Giandomenico, and Virtue Triumphing over Perfidy over Triumphing Virtue solo effort the father. by oeil ’ 7pm), San The – Places 5pm; – 6.50. ’ e St Barnabas in 4pm. – Oct 10am the Museum of – – , one of several spreads through most through spreads church (daily church – 12.30pm & 2.30 – by Constantino Cedini,by a Sun: April March 9am REZZONICO ’ – Rezzonico – ’ The huge, damp-ridden CA Contents Rezzonico, a palazzo which the city authorities bought in 1934 specifically as a home for the the Venetian the Venetian Eighteenth Century of the enormous Ca Museo del Settecento Veneziano Wed Ca dei Pugni bridgesname. with this Originally without built parapets, the sites of were they ritual the battles between Nicolotti;Castellani and this with marble one is inset footprints starting marking the positions. now Pugilists have tourists by been replaced taking San shots of the photogenic Barnaba grocery barge moored at the foot of the bridge. Barnaba 9.30am in 1749,built l has a trompe follower of Tiepolo. of Despite follower restoration,recent the ceiling is again because of being restored damage. moisture ceiling painting of Glory Nov Dorsoduro PLACES glass bottles. stocked and withceramicjars wood-panelled rooms heavily pharmacy rooftops) istoseethe the tremendous view across the from (apart upstairs clambering but themainpointof centuries, from thefifteenthtotwentieth private donationof Venetian art house alessthanthrilling the execution. make in upforitsshortcomings value to than enoughcuriosity famous work candid artlessly whose Longhi, Zaccaria recreation intheparlour ofSan (includinghigh-society Guardi Venetian lifeby Francesco and depictionsofeveryday of rooms withdelightfulportraits There then follows asuccession home. family theTiepolo Mestre, from the Villa Zianigonear Tiepolo paintings museum next suiteofrooms containsthe in public galleries Venice.The views by floor just bottles but also draught selling not outlet forlocalwines, Mon morning. Closed Margherita 3664. Campo S. La Naved delle Barbaria Tole 1169. at side ofCampoSanBarnaba, another branchontheother has the biggeststockincity; withperhaps Huge maskshop, Opendaily. Calle delleBotteghe3172. Ca Shops 86 Contents The low-ceilinged rooms of In the portego ofthe In theportego ’ Macana third and fourth floors third andfourth – hang theonlytwo canal suchasaversion ofthe Rhinoceros ’ s sequenceoffrescoes ’ ’ s convent) andPietro s mostengaging Canaletto – Giandomenico ’ asequenceof , Oro This isthecity – hasmore on show in second Places ’ s best some bargains. including books, street sellsart on theoppositesideof branch and translations.Another but someduallanguage Italian, mainlyin books, reduced-price portraits ofRichard portraits Wagner. masksto ancient Greek tragic producing everything from the mostimaginative inthecity, isperhaps Margherita, Campo S. locatedjustoff workshop, ranks amongthecity caf pasticcerie Caf Rio Terr MondoNovo Sacca della Toletta 1214. Libreria della Toletta gianduiotto creationclogging calleda Celebrated foranartery- Z Nico until2amJune till midnight, Opendaily Margherita3058. Campo S. Il Doge Sun. Closed Margherita2996. Campo S. Causin Closed Nov&Dec. campo. caf cream atthislong-established L and Via (closed Wedafternoon), 1370 Cannaregio Leonardo, Rio WedTerr afternoon), Castello5786(closed Novo, branches atCalledelMondo Other Veneto winetotake out. be given apapercupwith a passeggio á é tr iGsai92 Closed Thurs. 922. ttere aiGesuati at,Lido241. panto, é é whichhasseatingonthe , gltra Like -gelateria. Excellent homemadeice é à Canal3063. s and (to take out)andyou – askforone Well-established This mask Causin ’ Sells s best. – Sept. da à ,it S. ’ ll PLACES Dorsoduro 87 means 24. , which e ò casino not to be or ll gather from – casin ’ except to come here. Casin – restaurant tucked in a corner tucked of restaurant tourists few where the sestiere venture first- includes The small menu class fish. close as early as Might 9pm, they on how depending feel. cards. No credit Casin dei Nobili Calle Lombardo 2765. Closed Mon. with both locals and Popular tourists, place serves this excellent (and large) pizzas plus a varied that includes menu local specialities such as eel. with menu Good two-course and wine for water for Separate dining area smokers. the place mats brothel, as you confused with means casino. Places Highly and an s just a few yards s just a few ’ cicheti Unpretentious parishUnpretentious No credit cards.No credit Booking . Oct. s part of the fun. Supposed ’ – NICO 041.520.6978. Closed Sun. Contents recommended osteriarecommended just off Campo S. Barnaba, with delicious Campo Angelo Raffaele 1722.Campo Closed Tues Mon lunchtime and all day July Anzolo Raffael Calle Lunga S. Barnaba 2754/a t Ai Quattro Ferri Piscina del Forner 857.Piscina del Forner Closed Mon. unspoilt Remarkably considering it Ai Cugnai Restaurants to close at 9pm, going keeps but them. if the mood takes block of praline ice cream of praline ice block cream. in whipped drowned to the east of the Accademia,to the east of the this and reasonable popular is a very little trattoria, run a family by of gregarious Venetian senior citizens. memorized Orders are and can become scrambled and kitchen, table between but that inexpensive menu that changes menu inexpensive daily essential in high season. Dorsoduro PLACES .0m closed Sun. 8.30pm, Opentill Fondamenta Nani992. Cantina del Vino gi 8am Open Margherita3665. Campo S. Ai DoDraghi Bars andsnacks iswonderful. the terrace and theview ofGiudeccafrom fromsets itapart itsneighbours, dishes and lightMediterranean themenu ofsalads excellent, is service in Dorsoduro.The the mostenjoyable restaurants which it outside the Stretching onto thewaterfront t Z La Piscina cards. Z nearby Alle stop andslightlybetterthanthe by theZ right Nicely sitedrestaurant-pizzeria, Z Da Gianni 88 the work oflocalphotographers. backroom exhibits wines.The caf friendly thisisatiny, opposite, the two dragonson the wall wine shopoppositeSan Trovaso á á Contents 4.2.46 Closed Mon. 041.520.6466. ttere ai Gesuati 780 ttere aiGesuati Closed Wed. 918a. ttere aiGesuati MARGARET DUCHAMP é – br witha good rangeof -bar, 2am. ’ tahd thisisoneof s attached, Taking itsnamefrom Calcina á á tr.Nocredit ttere. ttere vaporetto Great barand oe,to hotel, à Schiavi Places az blues orrock on Thursdays. jazz, outonthesquare andlivechairs with is astudentfavourite, caf old-fashioned inviting, Rosso ambience. with aself-consciouslychic classiest ofthecampo a,closed Sun. 2am, Opentill Margherita2963. Campo S. Il Caff closed Sun. midnight, Opentill Fondamenta 2540. Briati Da Codroma closed Mon. least 12.30am, Opentillat Calle dellaChiesa684. Corner Pub a,closed Tues. 2am, Opentill Margherita3019. Campo S. Margaret DuChamp readings andlive jazz. Occasionalpoetry Architecture. nearby University of Popular withstudentsfrom the book andfeelcomfortable. hour ortwo withabeerand place where you couldsitforan the locals. they are always outnumbered by but inattendance, foreigners place usuallyhasafew arty this close totheGuggenheim, u.Excellent buy. – dosomesamplingbefore you o t i e in this for itsbigred sign, è

cicheti Known as Much the The kindof too. , ’ s latebars, e y Ver Caff é -bar è PLACES San Polo and Santa Croce 89 , and , one of s famous ’ Fabbriche San s finest s erratically ’ ’ the Orio that ’ and Fabbriche Nuove Fabbriche for example in s – ’ (the arcaded buildings (the arcaded away: market Campo San Polo Campo San reputation as the bazaar of reputation had been going Europe.Trading four hundred for over on here when,years winter of in the 1514, everything destroyed a fire except the church. in the area Reconstruction began almost straight Vecchie along the Ruga degli Orefici the Campo San and around finished five Giacomo) were after the fire,years with Sansovino re in search of a spot in in search re ’ Places Scuola Grande di San Rocco Scuola Grande di San Simeone Grande , Campo San Giacomo dell . Lastly, if you . Lastly, are clustered together on the bank of the together clustered are area, once the commercial heart of the once the commercial area, , embellished with three of Venice , embellished with three s most magnificent palaces, while the third is third s most magnificent palaces, while the ’ s more spacious and tranquil squares. spacious s more s first state bank was ’ ’ modern history art, oriental and natural

Rialto

In the northern Venice part of the district, Contents As the political centre of Venice of As the political centre San Marco, around grew the Rialto became the commercial area. century In the twelfth Europe The Rialto opened here, and the financiers to be the of this quarter were of the heavyweights international currency exchanges for the next three and more.And years hundred of the the markets through Rialto earned a Venice Pantaleone Venice head for the which to sit for an hour and just watch the world go by, which to sit for an hour and just watch scattered among the minor churches among the minor churches scattered merchants. As ever, numerous treasures are also are treasures numerous As ever, merchants. installed in the former headquarters of the Turkish installed in the former headquarters of museums the city open occupy one of Canal Grande: the first two collections San Cassiano Tintoretto. Tintoretto. decorated with an unforgettable cycle of paintings by decorated with an unforgettable altarpieces, and the altarpieces, and the Republic and still the home of a Republic and still the the Frari southern of colossal Gothic church part of San Polo: the should miss the extraordinary pair of buildings in the pair of buildings should miss the extraordinary good antidote to cultural overload. Nobody, however, overload. Nobody, good antidote to cultural stalls and the unspoilt bars used by the porters are a bars used by the porters are stalls and the unspoilt the The bustle of the of the city. far beyond the boundaries are the sociable open space of the sociable open are focal points of the San Polo and Santa Croce sestieri Santa Croce of the San Polo and focal points Croce is concerned, the Venice day-to-day life of As far as the San Polo and Santa and Polo San San Polo and Santa Croce PLACES tls heekok,anumber cheesekiosks, stalls, u Yo nothing but Italianspoken. stand inacrowd and hear few placeswhere it andoneofthe spots inthecity, but it than thatof Venice atits peak, years later. Grande) following aboutthirty alongtheCanal (running 90 51, 52,82,N PIAZZALE ROMA Piazzale 1, 41,42, Contents Today Roma 0 100 m 0 ’ lfn ri elr,vegetable sellers, ll findfruit

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D RIO TERRA RIO 9.30 not to be missed Monday as well. Monday founded at noon the city was on Friday, 25, March 421; from the the same legend derives of claim that the church Giacomo di Rialto consecrated in that year, and is Venice. in thus the oldest church the truth of the Whatever o San Polo and Santa Croce PLACES on which theexecutioners Venice pictures in the moststartling Crucifixion The DescentintoLimbo Tintoretto three finepaintingsby but insidethere are exterior, the onlyappealingaspectof campanile is thirteenth-century out oftheRialto.The bound topassasyou wander 5 Cassiano (daily9am churchThe barn-like ofSan San Cassiano the Gobbo. from thePiazzato stark naked, thegauntlet, sentenced torun wrongdoers werecertain had anotherrole aswell it besideSanMarco; del Bando, announcement from thePietra simultaneously withtheir state proclamations were read from which platform granite a Itsupports Rialto hunchback. as the crouches astonefigure known 92 – Contents DELIVERIES ATRIALTOMARKET 7pm) isabuilding you Gobbo diRialto – centred ontheladder .The third isoneof .The : The Resurrection – noon & and – ’ Places re or the The , Christina endearing boastsan building, century 10am (Tues MaterDomini Maria corner.The workshop tucked intoone andanironsmith bars, acoupleof head inthecentre, well- a fourteenth-century age, stone reliefs ofindeterminate of anassortment Gothic houses, afew ramshackle Casa Zane), house(the a thirteenth-century a typically Venetian miscellany at thefootofCross. observer were lyinginthegrass it stand, the hiddendelightsof it Venice; be includedinany anthology of would have to Mater Domini The smallCampoSantaMaria Santa MariaMaterDomini The Ca Ca century. halfoftheeighteenth the first here in performances their first five hundred works received around most active inEurope; opera houseswere amongthe the following century Venice Monteverdi atthepeakof in 1636, house intheworld public opera the siteoffirst Duchessa Felicit by the nineteenth century to thecityatendof d Internazionale Galleria centre thecityacquired the of theintendedliving arts andinplace enlightened plans, paid totheDuchess Subsequent machinationsput impoverished young artists. exhibition spacefor that itshouldprovide studioand who stipulated inherwill Masa, ’ Campo SanCassiano Arte Moderna Moderna Arte ’ P – é on,anearlysixteenth- noon), saro ’ ’ s paintedasthoughthe P yVnez Catena. by Vincenzo é Martyrdom ofSt Martyrdom saro was bequeathed ’ aer Longinto s career. church à Bevilacqua La (Tues – ’ s of Santa itopened ’ s – Sun: was – ’ Fri s – ’ s PLACES San Polo and Santa Croce 93 see

– 5pm; The – Guild). ’ by The Liberation by Sebastiano by 5pm, 1 Sun by Piazzetta (low by ).the chancel In – s a series of ’ (Goldsmiths 2 or Chorus Pass 2 or Chorus Pass e p.171 there 10am the paintings from beginning of the eighteenth century, the are pick of which the MartyrdomSt James of Great on the left), of St Peter and Ricci (same row) The Martyrdom of St Bartholomew Giambattista Tiepolo (opposite). Exhibitions and concerts often are held in San Stae, and also held exhibitions are time to time in the from building diminutive alongside, the early seventeenth-century EXTERIOR OF SAN STAE Scuola dei Battioro e Scuola dei Battioro Tiraoro ). s top Places ’ 5.50, Museo e 5; see p.171 –

6pm; Sat – – – , on the palace (Mon saro takes you over the over you takes saro s weaker museums,s weaker and ’ é SARO Oct 10am É March 10am March – P – ’ CA Contents Calle P San Stae and the Tiraoro Scuola dei Battioro e Rio della Rioda to the of church seventeenth-century San Stae April Most of the stuff in this collection is modern only in the sense of the term:chronological the Biennale pieces bought from formed the foundation of the collection, its early years and in a celebration the Biennale was most conservative of all that was art.Thisin European is one of the city Orientale floor, of lacquer whose jumble work, armour, screens, weaponry to and so forth is not likely appeal to the uninitiated. the same goes for the Nov including the Museo Orientale, or Museum Pass San Polo and Santa Croce PLACES no other church in Venice has and century, thirteenth certainly Some ofthepaintings are end) couldbeof the sameage. frescoes (attheeast fragmentary ofits andparts existence, of its date from century thefirst columns andcapitalsofthenave the through several alterations; ithas retained its layout century, opening years oftheeleventh Museum Pass Beheaded Nov year-old intown. have beenthebest-dressed five- byoutfit onceworn whatmust embroideredextraordinarily andan silvery paddedwaistcoats, items asfloralsilkstockings, closed toprotect suchdelicate are kept curtains lacework.The clothing andcobweb-fine and display casesofdandified Muranochandeliers, furniture, antique miscellaneous pictures, rooms tothesideare fullof whilethe Mocenigo men, workaday ofvarious portraits main room isdecoratedwith meticulously preserved.The date thathave beenso are few Venetian ofthis interiors andthere open tothepublic, ofthe portion but asubstantial building, centre occupy ofthe part andarchivelibrary ofthestudy of textilesandclothing.The home toacentre forthestudy now Palazzo Mocenigo, century Stae istheearlyseventeenth- flankingSan down thealley dialect orSanZanDegol Decollato, church ofSanGiovanni station passesthedeconsecrated signposted route tothetrain Mon San GiovanniDecollato Tues Palazzo Mocenigo 94 Contents – – – March 10am Sat 10am Sat u:April Sun: – itmeans ” Established inthe . – – –

noon. see p.171 Oct 10am – piano nobile 4pm. “ The St John the e – . 4 or 5pm; Halfway Places is à in to Paolo Inthe left Veneziano. the airinfront ofitisattributed thathangsin theCrucifix fairly; Venetians hadnot treated him city complainingthatthe before heleftthe shortly 1546, painted by Lorenzo Lottoin Madonna andFourSaints mainaltarpiece, seen here.The Several finepaintingsare tobe century.added inthefourteenth Sun 1 characteristic ship characteristic when itsship notably subsequent occasions, and remodelled onnumerous itwas rebuilt in1225 origins), the apsebetrays itsByzantine (the shapeof the ninthcentury Founded in church. atmospheric – church also hasoneofthecity The frescoes that predate them. dell SanGiacomo looking forit, easily missifyou weren you could despiteitssize, which, Standing inalovely campo San Giacomodell 10am room are open(Sat&Sun anddinosaur only theaquarium andatthemoment restoration, been undergoingamajor in recent years thebuilding has However,dredged from thesilt. andapre-Roman boat life, relating tothelagoon Venetian lifeisthedisplay relevance ofstricter to 1973; both dugupintheSahara crocodile andanOuranosaurus, 37-foot-long ancestorofthe exhibits are theremains ofa Turkish traders.Top-billing hostel-cum-warehouse for Turchi inthe church, Naturale The The MuseodiStoriaNaturale

see p.171 ’ Orio (Mon Orio Museo diStoria – – p;free). 4pm; 5pm; whichwas oncea , is right by the is right ) isanancientand e ’ s-keel roof was 2 or Chorus Pass2 orChorus Fondaco dei – Sat 10am ’ s-keel ceilings. ’ Orio ’ s marine ’ ,was t – 5pm, ’ s PLACES San Polo and Santa Croce 95 most – Campo San s nearest equivalent s nearest ’ , in the largest square SAN POLO San Polo South of the Rialto, Ruga San Giovanni Vecchia constitutes the first of the leg right bank to the Mercerie of San Marco, a of straight chain reasonably shop-lined alleyways that is interrupted by Polo after the Piazza.Venice In the site of earlier times it was and occasional markets weekly fairs, as being used as a as well and bullfighting parade ground 1317 by Marco Romano, Marco 1317 by but expertssome that the doubt old,can be that sculpture as of that date bearsnothing else comparison with it. Originating century,in the tenth the church rebuilt has often been in the eighteenth extensively century, when the city sanitation experts, the anxious about victims condition of the plague who had been buried under the flagstones in the 1630 epidemic, the whole floor to be ordered relaid. – s San ’ s a fine ’ Places t, though, ’ 6.30pm. – ORIO ’ Orio is plumb in s an altarpiece by ’ ’ noon & 5 – Sat 9am – SAN GIACOMO DELL Contents San Simeone Profeta Mon transept there Giacomo dell the middle of an extensive district,residential of much as you which is as close to bland Venice. Don can get in overlook the church of San the church overlook (or Grande) Simeone Profeta for its reclining remarkable effigy of Saint Simeon (to the left of the chancel), a luxuriantly bearded, larger than life-size figure, whose half-open mouth the disturbingly creates of the moment of impression death.According to its inscription, sculpted in it was Paolo Veronese, and Paolo there Veronese from set of pictures workshop on the ceiling of the workshop sacristy.The old sacristynew is a il for the art of Palma showcase Giovane, whose cycle in celebration of the Eucharist and part of the the walls covers ceiling. San Polo and Santa Croce PLACES 10am church Polo see p.171 closes 4pm. Mon Casa Goldoni waswhen theartist only twenty. painted oftheCrucifix, Oratory by Giandomenico Tiepolo inthe Stations oftheCross as you enter)andacycleofthe Supper worth avisitforsuperior PassChorus Cosimo I,Alessandro here by assassinssentby Duke was murdered friend), former Alessandro (adistantrelative and thederangedDukemurdering having fledFlorence after Lorenzaccio de 1548, 26, onFebruary retribution: of abloody actofpolitical Campo SanPolo was thescene ononeoccasion arena.And 96 miniature theatre. anda marionettes century including someeighteenth- paraphernalia, theatrical and papers autograph editions, collection offirst Museo Goldoni studies instituteandthe home now housesatheatre er n o.Goldoni andwon. year, one play aweek forawhole thathecouldproduce friend heoncebeta allegedly, outofmaterial running andthere Venice, lifein staple oftheatrical Goldoni politicalobservation. sharp clowning intoamedium for vehicle forsemi-improvised commedia dell the who transformed (1707 of CarloGoldoni was thebirthplace Nomboli, inCalledei Palazzo Centani, Contents The bleak interior of The bleak interior – Sat 10am Sat – – p,Sun1 5pm, by Tintoretto (ontheleft 3,theplaywright 93), . ’ s plays are stillthe The fifteenth-century e 2.50 orMuseumPass – – ’ arte p,Nov 5pm,

(Mon see p.171 ’ from a asmall , s no risk of s norisk – ( 5pm; – Via Crucis ’ Sat ’ s successor. – Medici, March San ’ ) is s – e Places 2 or Last ) – or ChorusPass Frari istheonlybuilding in Frari the Accademia andtheSalute, from the interior.Apart prelude toanastounding church isa misleadingly dull but theoutside ofthe of brick, sightwiththismountain at first 1396. San Marco landmarks andthetallestafter oneof the city The campanile, took well over ahundred years. aproject which replacement, than work beganonavast church completed (in1338) almost nosoonerwas thefirst but death oftheirfounder, notlongafterthe around 1250, founded by theFranciscans Mon dei Frari Santa MariaGloriosa abbreviated to deiFrari Gloriosa Maria ou Yo – Sat 9am Sat ’ re unlikely inlove tofall ’ ,was finishedin s, – p,Sun1 6pm, –

see p.171 h Frari the TITIAN ’ S ASSUMPTION – . 6pm. Santa – – was e 2 ’ s PLACES San Polo and Santa Croce 97 , t fail to ’ , in built S ALTARPIECE ’ s death in ’ Doge BELLINI scari Tron, by Antonio ó scari, carved ò ó Against the right-hand of wall Doge Niccol Doge Rizzo and assistants (1476); on the right, and archaic the more chaotic tomb of Doge Francesco F shortly after F 1457 (after 34 years as doge) by as doge) 1457 (after 34 years Bregno. Antonio and Paolo stands the house-sized the nave Titian to monument the mid-nineteenth century on the supposed place of his burial. The artist died in 1576, in his ninetieth year,around a casualty of the plague; such was was Titian the esteem in which held, the only victim to he was burialchurch a in be allowed the course of the outbreak.The on the opposite pyramid marble is the side of the church Mausoleum of Canova of the pupils by erected sculptor, a design he following himself had made for the tombs Titian and Maria Christina of of Austria. Finally, can you the most notice what is surely in the grotesque monument city, the tomb of (in Places Madonna .Two of the .Two s serene and s serene ’ St John the : on the left is , (on the left wall, – tombs , in the sacristy. ll also find the grave ’ soars s luridly naturalistic saro saro ’ St Ambrose and other St St Mark Enthroned Titian é s s ’ ’ choir, of and its wealth Madonna and Child with P s a piece (in the chapel to the ’ Assumption ’ (in the adjoining chapel, ’ ll see right Nicholas of Bari, Peter, Mark ’ . Apart from its paintings,Apart from the Contents the you the high over altar. It Assumption Assumption away, as it and one of these and one of – Venice with Venice a than more first-ratesingle by work of compositional and colouristic for bravura was which there in no precedent art (no Venetian previous altarpiece had emphasized the axis),vertical and Titian the other Saints you where the Cappella Corner, at the end of the left transept),Alvise Vivarini between the third and fourth the third between columns), equally innovative was in its displacement of the figure of of Virgin the centre from the the picture. Other paintings to Bartolomeolook out for are Vivarini of Monteverdi), and, all, above Bellini Giovanni di Ca solemn masterpiece here, the SS and Benedict wooden statue of wooden Frari for is also remarkable Donatello Baptist right transept), of the the beautiful fifteenth-century monks extravagant extravagant the proto-Renaissance tomb of the proto-Renaissance finest monuments flank the flank finest monuments Titian San Polo and Santa Croce PLACES with Venice Card. with Venice Nov the special concern ofthis the specialconcern overwhelming experience. voltage shouldfind thisan atalowerprefer theirart but even thosewho everyone, unqualified enthusiasmin paintings won restlessness of Tintoretto unremitting concentrationand in World WarII.) The ruined Pisa Chapel andtheCampoSantoat other votes were fortheSistine (His tosuchhyperbole. resorted whydifficult tounderstand he buildings inItaly “ Tintoretto appreciate the achievement of al:April Daily: di SanRocco The ScuolaGrande decomposing corpses. trousered and Moors ragged- aloft by gigantic Giovanni P 98 San Roccoyou can been totheScuolaGrandedi one ofthethree mostprecious Contents From itsfoundationin1478, Santa MariadellaMisericordia ihSnGog el civn,theSlavs with SanGiorgodegliSchiavoni, e theScuoladeiBattioro (eg goldsmithsat Tiraori) (as orbycommonnationality unitedby membershipofcertainguilds TheScuoleMinore, spectacular example. ofwhichtheScuolaGrandediSanRoccoismost tectural andartisticprojects, archi- themtofundlavish allowed receivedsubscriptionsthat six hundredmen, andwithrostersofupto from thewealthiestprofessionalandmercantile groups, muchoftheirmembership drawing TheScuoleGrande, asfourhundred. many asthe smaller bodiesknown more ofthesemajorconfraternities so-called from plague relieftotheprovision oftroops). from plague inemergencies (anything andtodistributealmsservices communal worship, toofferaplaceof andmedicalaid), assistance fortheirmembers (egdowries Yet allscuolehadthesamebasicfunctions more modestbases. tion of the confraternity called tion oftheconfraternity The Venetian asthe institutions known The Scuole – March 10am – thelatterwas virtually – Oct 9am Scuole Grande Ruskincalledit . é saro ’ t inspire – Unless you 4pm. ” – 5.30pm; andit , 16) held (1669), ’ t properly e 5.50, . By the middle of the sixteenth century therewerefive Bythemiddle of thesixteenthcentury . ’ s ’ Places s not Scuole Minore ’ Scuola diSantaMariadellaCarit ve e , 4 San Rocco –

scuole San Giovanni Evangelista upper storey in thesmallerroom onthe development you have tobegin But toappreciate Tintoretto lower room picture inthe with thefirst more than fifty majorpaintings. Tintoretto andfor for thisbuilding, paid coffers fattened disease.The Roch people hopingtosecure St levels poured infrom asgifts revenue rocketed torecord dell andtheScuola of plague, the citywas hitby anoutbreak status of that in1489itacquired the boom indonationswas sogreat andtheconsequent Germany, saint was brought to Venice from years whenthebodyof Scuola hadbeengoingforseven plague victimsinItaly.The his hometown towork among whoin1315left of Montpellier, patron saint, missionofits the Christian of thesick scuolawasparticular the relief ’ scuola), generally operated fromfar generallyoperated scuola), The narrative sequencebegins , of which at onetimetherewereas ofwhichat , and originated in1260withtheforma- originated ’ Albergo ’ s protection againstthe San Teodoro scuola grande – ’ s amazingcycleof – acontinuation of St Roch – the .This isdominated .This the à – Annunciation thefirstof , plusscoresof Sala , – San Marco In1527 . toprovide (Rocco) ’ s ’ s , . PLACES San Polo and Santa Croce 99 St s ’ St . Four (second

– The The Pool of The Pool (lower left). (lower St Roch Taken to Taken St Roch St Martin The church of The church (lower right) and (lower s last painting, St Roch Curing the ’ he died in a fall Alemagna (in the – and ’ kept Gian Antonio Gian kept 6pm. ll find ll find – ’ ; is only the latter , it and below Sat 4 – d been working. In addition, ’ the Scuola di San Giovanni Christopher Tintoretto by large paintings chancel,hang in the either often with lost in the gloom or glazed sunlight: the best (both painted in 1549) are Plague Victims St Roch in Prison nave you nave Prison Bethesda Tintoretto. definitely by the altars on the other Between of good a couple side are Pordenone by pictures The Scuola di San Giovanni Evangelista Another of the Scuole Grande nestles in a line of drab near to the Frari very buildings – Evangelista.This institution finest hour came in 1369, when of a relic with presented it was the True Cross.The miracles were the relic effected by commemorated in a series of Carpaccio,paintings by Gentile San Pantaleone Mon from the scaffolding from which the scaffolding from from he possesses a fine the church and Vivarini Antonio by picture d Giovanni San Pantaleone, a short distance to the south of San Rocco, has ceiling the most melodramatic Venice. sixty on Painted in panels,which actually some of the nave, jut out over St Apotheosis of Martyrdom and Pantaleone 1680 to from Fumiani busy 1704. Sadly, got the he never chance to bask in the glory of his labours Pantaleone Healing a Boy Pantaleone chapel on right). chapel to the left of the chancel) and Veronese s ’ are – in the Places St Mary Yet more Yet s governors aside from Crucifixion ’ 5pm. Tintoretto – – chapter house and the ” Surely no single Surely St Mary of Egypt “ the – and noon & 3 – Albergo in 1567. Eight Glorification of St Roch ’ Tintoretto finished his Tintoretto Contents he undertook to do the work Tintorettos are to be found in are Tintorettos the neighbouring of San church Rocco. On the right of the wall The church of San Rocco Daily 8am by the stupendous stupendous the by (1565), most compendious the painted. ever of the event image greater Henry made even James claims for it: contains in the world picture life; of human more is there in it. everything middle of the ceiling (the piece middle of the ceiling (the him the contract to that won decorate the whole room) on the entrance wall. contribution to the Sala dell later,years the Scuola when with the decided to proceed embellishment of the main upper hall other works here here other works the – in return than for nothing more his expenses. he the event In a lifetime annuity, awarded was and then commenced the ceiling.The Scuola the finest he ever among are created. were so pleased with these three so pleased were given large panels that he was the task of completing the interior. decoration of the entire scenes Testament The New the wallsaround defy every of perspective, convention lighting,and even colour anatomy, a feat of sustained equals that has few inventiveness in western art.Though he was in his late sixties when he came hall,to paint the lower is there no sign of flagging creativity: indeed, in the the landscapes Flight into Egypt depictions of meditative Magdalen San Polo and Santa Croce PLACES of FrancescoMorosini monument in the Venice: swirls thebestBaroque Up theleftwall ofthechancel from theLyscorner painting. round the by Strozzi, Bernardo and left; tothe wall outsidethechancel, St Jerome a two really standout: paintings, of seventeenth-century 4.30 Tolentini Nicol church ofSan portentous San Giovanni Evangelista tothe but uncomplicatedroute from Sacchere Calle dellaLacca Giardino Papadopoli The Tolentini andthe marble carving. wonderfully delicatepieceof isa but itsotherface looks like wall, any oldbrick thescreen just station direction, Approached from thetrain 1481 by Pietro Lombardo. built in of theoutercourtyard, the Scuolaissuperbscreen Nowadays thechiefattractionof transplanted tothe Accademia. now Bellini andothers, 100 Contents GIARDINO PAPADOPOLI – 6.30pm).Among itsscores 6.30pm).Among ò da Tolentino St LawrenceGiving Alms – yJhn y,onthe by Johann Lys, Calle Amai isadullish (daily 8am – Fondamenta – – aliasthe noon & Places , tomb nearby make forthe need apitstop, FilippoParodi. sculptor, created in1678 by aGenoese by thecity. private gardens but now owned oneof formerly Venice quality handbagsandbriefcases. workshop thatproduces high- o eein boats. for Venetian kits andelegantlydrawn plans model models, sells well-priced PenzoGilberto uniquely callinat Venetian gift, Calle SecondaSaoneri. La Scialuppa Ruga Rialto773a. Francis Model Calle delCristo2919. Bottega deiMascareri Shops in Fellini paintings orDonaldSutherland takensuch asfaces from Tiepolo wonderfully inventive masks, sellssome dei Mascareri theBottega Massimo Boldrin, years by and thebrothers Sergio If fatigue issettinginandyouIf fatigue Giardino Papadopoli ’ s Casanova A father-and-son ’ hp which s shop, Run formany For a . ’ s biggest , PLACES San Polo and Santa Croce 101 s best, ’ s been ’ t do you, nothing ’ Popular small brick- Popular Orio. Has about eighty re not there by 8pm you 8pm by not there re ’ ’ BOTTEGA DEI MASCARERI side of Campo S. Giacomo dell varieties to choose from, so if this doesn to queue on the have may pavement. Alla Madonna Calle della Madonna 594.Wed. Closed Roomy, loud and bustling that seafood restaurant for four decades. going strong for good value Little finesse but money, locals rate its and many kitchen as one of the city far are from though standards consistent. not Reservations accepted, to prepared so be queue. Bancogiro Sottoportego del Banco Giro 122. Open until midnight, and Sun evening closed all Mon. vaulted restaurant-cum-bar,vaulted in a the Rialto splendid location by market. to sample Come here the innovative, moderately will; if evenings on summer you A – s ’ 3pm – Places s on one Delicate é A alimentari cakes are in high are cakes Aponal 1226. ’ s opposite Goldoni ’ s and midnight, & Sat. until 1am Fri é Tonolo Tonolo

–

Contents good range of masks and some good range of masks and nice eighteenth-century styles, a might expect from as you shop that & 7pm Excellent rustic pizzeria on an that leads into the south alley Ae Oche 1552.Tentor Calle del Daily noon Restaurants of the busiest streets of the streets of the busiest student district; especially hectic mornings,on Sunday when the fancy demand. Crosera S. 3764. Pantalon Closed Mon. caf One of the busiest Tonolo Caf pasticcerie Valeria Bellinaso Valeria Campo Sant Calle dei Nomboli 2800. Open daily. wine, cheese (the best stalls in here),the city are fruit, salami, vegetables, from and bread or bakers nearby (delicatessens). Tragicomica Rialto market of markets,The market where you everything can buy you feast need for an impromptu Campo dei Frari 2995. dei Frari Campo Polliero silk and velvet shoes,silk and velvet bags, hats and gloves. bookbinding workshop that sells workshop bookbinding patterned as heavy, paper as well of albums leather-bound paper. handmade plain house. San Polo and Santa Croce PLACES o,and Tueslunch. Mon, Closed Campiello delPiovan 1459. Il Refolo closed Fri. 12.30am, Openuntil Campiello deiMeloni. Da Sandro quality wine. room barforaglassofhigh- also drop intothetiny front- isfaultless.Youand service can among thevery bestin Venice, Generallyconsidered wine list. homemadebread and desserts, cheeses, regional on itsseafood, itself prides Campo SanPolo; elegantrestaurant off Refined, T Calle delScaleter2202a Da Fiore Canal Grande. glass offinewinebesidethe a foodorjusttonurse priced 102 they do. pizzasare thebestthing so.The thoughnotaggressively frenetic, Often tables onthepavement. both sidesofthecampielloand withrooms on pizzeria-trattoria, Contents 4.3.0.ClosedSun&Mon. 041.731.308. Split-site Run by the Places the canalsidesettingisnice. and moderate theprices high, qualityremains curries.The beef lamb, chicken, alotofmeat featuring against the Venetian by grain “ establishment (itsnamemeans Zucca well-respected restaurant, salads aswell. Giacomo dell which fronts thechurch ofSan fillsupthetiny square pizzeria Da Fiore son oftheowner ofthefamous in summer). jazz (live on Wednesdays except accompaniedby non-stop city, some ofthebestpizzasin dark-panelled the Giovanni, S. Ruga Vecchia T Ponte delMegio1762 La Zucca closed Mon. midnight orlater, Openuntil Campiello delSansoni900. Jazz Club900 pumpkin 4.2.50 Closed Sun. 041.524.1570. was onceavegetarian thisexcellentcanalside , ” ) but now goes ’ ro Goodfor Orio. Novecento – and – serves Just off Long a La PLACES San Polo and Santa Croce or 103 é 2am. – Caf spritz Sat – Hidden just off 2am, Sun 7pm – 8.30pm. s a single narrow room, s a single narrow – ’ Noir Sat 7am , this is candidate for the é – some would say in the entire say some would coffee. Blue title of favourite student bar, with a cosmopolitan all-day a chatting over crowd where afternoonwhere teas and cakes as whiskies on offer as well are and cocktails. Puts on art exhibitions, has a DJ on Wednesdays, and hosts local time to time. bands from rock Do Mori Calle Do Mori 429. Mon 8.30am Caf 3805.Crosera San Pantalon Open Mon the neighbouringWith Ruga Vecchia Ruga Vecchia S. Giovanni, this is the most authentic old-style area bar in the market Venetian – city. It with no seating, every packed with home-bound evening shopworkers, Rialto porters, and locals just out for a stroll. Delicious snacks, great range of wines, terrific atmosphere. Co- Places , this is Sat – -style business “ Da Fiore osteria ” Lively student haunt Lively is something of a bargain and other Venetian and other

” Blue 2am. 20, in the evening but Excellent – é ò

e DO MORI 041.524.2486. Closed Wed. Contents La Patatina lunch owned by Matteo Serena, by owned former chef at an airy modern establishment floors, marble (grey white walls) the cuisine is light and where modern too. The at at least twice that. expect to pay Calle dei Preti 3778. Mon 8am Caf Ruga Vecchia S.Vecchia Ruga Giovanni 778. Closed Sun. Antico Dolo Bars and snacks T Rib Minotto 158 Fondamenta specialities, with well-priced set that change regularly. menus Bustling osteria, serving excellent cicheti 2741a Calle dei Saoneri. Closed Sun. Osteria al Ponte, “ establishment, of a good source wine and snacks near the Rialto. 104 Cannaregio The hustle around the train station is a misleading introduction to Cannaregio, because in this sestiere it’s very easy to get well away from the tourist crowds. The pleasures of Cannaregio are generally more a matter of

PLACES atmosphere than of specific sights, but you shouldn’t leave Venice without seeing the Ghetto, the first area in the world to bear that name. There are some special buildings to visit too: Madonna dell’Orto, with its Cannaregio 0 200 m

Rio dei Riformati

Rio della

FON Sensa C. C D. OLETTI

FON C DA an ME al Rio di NS.T A D Macello di EL 2 C GirolamoLE a FO FONDAMENTACA S. GIROLAMO Pubblico nn N PP a D UC re A IN g M Palazzo E i E RIE o N Rio TA Surian di Battelo Tre Archi D I C A 41, 42, 51, 52 N NA RE C. DELLE BECCA GIO Ghetto Nuovo Scuola Rio del A Levantina S. Giobbe Ghetto

C. DELLA CERERIA Rio della Crea Guglie Rio di S. Giobbe Palazzo 41, 42, a re Savorgnan B C 51, 52 a RIO TERRA ll Parco S. e d io Savorgnan R Palazzo SARO D È Labia C. P C. D. MISERICORDIA CAMPO C. PRIULI DETTA DEI CAVALLETTI S. GEREMIA E S. Geremia E AND F LISTA DI SPAGNA L GR Riva di Biasio 1 A A R N R A E C T IO R D Ferrovia 1 Train Scalzi Station F. D. SCALZI Rio S. Simeone

Ferrovia Scalzi Marin Grande LISTA DEI BARI 41, 42, 51, C.LLO D.Bridge 52, 82, N COMARE CAMPO SAURO C. NUOVA

S. SimeoneS. SIMEON Rio di S. Zan S. Giacomo Rio

Piccolo dell'Orio di S. di

ra R. CHIOVERETTE L ia À G. dell h R C . . d A i S E V T S A CORTE CAN . ’ i N R O T O d R G l P A a L io ia A n d c a C C. LARGARio di S. o C Piazzale Roma e mo dell’ Orio

Rio Nuovo l 1, 41, 42, 51, 52, 82, N Giardino Tolentini Zuane Papadopoli

PIAZZALE ROMA

Contents Places 105 astonishing Tintoretto paintings; Sant’Alvise and the Palazzo Labia, both remarkable for work by Giambattista Tiepolo; the Ca’ d’Oro, a gorgeous Canal Grande palace housing a good art collection; and the

Gesuiti, a Baroque creation which boasts perhaps the PLACES weirdest interior in the city.

The Scalzi Nazaretta), which was begun in Daily 7–11.50am & 4–6.50pm. Right 1672 for the barefoot (“scalzi”) Cannaregio by the station stands the Scalzi order of Carmelites, but is (formally Santa Maria di anything but barefoot itself –

BARS & SNACKS HOTELS Cantina Vecia Carbonera 8 Abbazia F Iguana 7 Adua E Osteria ai Ormesini da Aldo 4 Al Saor G S. Alvise Paradiso Perduto 6 Bernardi Semenzato I 41, 42, 51, 52 Casa Martini B Del Ghetto A Giorgione H Novo J Madonna Villa Rosa D FONDAMENTA DEI RIFORMATI dell'Orto HOSTEL Rio di S. AlviseS. Alvise 41, 42, 51, 52 Ostello Santa Fosca C

RESTAURANTS Rio degli Zecchini Madonna dell'Orto Casino FONDA MENTA DELLA SENSA degli Al Bacco 2 1 FOND. MADONNA DELL Rio M Spiriti Alla Vedova 10 adonna dell'Orto Rio Trasti Anice Stellato 1 Rio della Campo ’ORTO 3 Palazzo Antica Mola 3 FONDAMENTA DEGLI ORMESINI SensaFONdei Mori D. D Mastelli Bentigodi 5 EI M Rio razzo 4 O B FO Sacca RI C N Casa Mia 12 O D Rio della N . G della TA A Il Sole sulla Vecia Palazzo R S Misericordia Casa IN PA Nuovo I R Mise- ricordiaLongo E Cavana 11 Tintoretto uti Museo FO Vini da Gigio NDA M Palazzo Contarini 9 M Rio d Ebraico ENTA io S. Maria DELLA MISERCORDIA d R dal Zaffo 6 e lla FO 5 dei Servi Rio della N Fondamente D S . A Scuola Vecchia 7 B Nove B e A della n Z CLLO. s IA 13, 41, 42 a Misericordia la Rio C DOANCONETTA o de S. Marziale M Palazzo 42, 51, 52, AR u i S is LEON c Rio e r ervi r aR. TERRA M ic Lezze LN o .M r S. Leonardo S 8 d i ia d ADDALEN Palazzo S. Caterina Gesuiti

del Trapolin

o Canal della

i La R Oratorio dei

i A Rio di S. Misericordia o Diedo S. Marcuola R S. Scuola Nuova MaddalenaM Crociferi a FoscaSTRADA NOVA d della tta Rio d Fosca e d a h l i S e c Palazzo Traghetto Misericordia c . C n o aterin a Palazzo Pal. RR. Zen lla a S. Marcuola e S. Albrizzi Palazzo Donà d 1, 82, N io Seriman della Palazzo Rio di Noale R R Fondaco Palazzo Doria 9 . Felice R io de io ’ Dolce l Sartori Rosa Vendramin- d i i t dei Giovanelli i Riello RIO TERRA BARBA u Degola i Calergi S e S. Stae . S. Sofia FRUTTAROL s Turchi d S. Felice Rio di S G e o S Rio di Ca g 1, N of iG e 10 ia e d Tron S. Stae d n à R. T. FRANCESCHI o STRADA NOVA F Ca'Pésaro S. Sofia . Rio C H R I 11 Rio Pal. C. DELL'OCA12 J R C. TINTOR io del R Megio Cornér Ca'd'Oro io d Ca' SS. i

C d'Oro CAMPO Apostoli a Ca'd'Oro ’ Pergola li W egio SS.APOSTOLI osto M 1, N p i

CAMPO de S. A d i m S. GIACOMO S S. Cassiano CAMPO io CAMPO a DELL’ORIO I R S. Canziano n Rio di S. Cassiano R Rio del E PESCARIA Traghetto S. MARIA T C.TINTOR Rio di S. Stae T Rio della O NOVA Rio di S. Boldo I B io di S. E R G iracoli D i ov M Rio delle due Torri LLE . Orio A C I Miracoli N N A Rio dei RioCPO. delle S. Beccarie V R CASSIA IO Rio . G d . e S ll N IA Rialto di a O H M C C S. Polo a VE S d A . P o ponal G Rialto Rio n U n . A R olo S e Bridge t t Rio a

Contents Places Cannargeio PLACES 5.30 Sun 9.15am Mon San Geremia (d.1802),Venice place ofLodovico Manin chapel ontheleftisresting second second ontheright.The chapel ontheleftand Tiepolo survive inthefirst and somewan frescoes by are preserved inthe Accademia, acoupleofscraps ceiling here; splendid Giambattista Tiepolo roof in1915there was a bomb plummetedthrough the Before an Austrian statuary. and overgrown withBaroque multicoloured marble with dark, isplated the opulentinterior 106 terminated terminated the travels ofStLucyeventually iswhere ListadiSpagna, tawdry attheendof Geremia, body, wearing alustrous wearing silver body, Herdessicated train station. demolished tomake way for the whenitwas nineteenth century, church in Venice inthemid- then oustedfrom herown Venetian in1204, Crusaders from Constantinople by shewas stolen Syracuse in304, Contents PALAZZO LABIAANDSANGEREMIA – – Sat 8am Sat 6.30pm. – 12.15pm & – – The church ofSan noon &3.30 martyred in martyred ’ s lastdoge. – 6.30pm, Places door). atthe admission isoften granted 3 Wed,Thurs &Fri eachweekfew hours (usually but they allow infora visitors now ownscompany, thepalace, the Italianstatebroadcasting Valmarana RAI, near Vicenza. mainland villassuchasthe Villa in narrative masterpieces Venice thatiscomparable tohis sequence of Tiepolo paintingsin thisistheonly neglect, freshness afteryears of original something approaching its Restored to Cleopatra. of the story Anthony and ballroom withfrescoes depicting to cover thewalls ofthe hired was Giambattista Tiepolo completedthan was theinterior Nosooner the nameofLasbias. extravagant by Catalanfamily 1720 was built in San Geremia, nextdoorto The Palazzo Labia, Palazzo Labia oldest leftinthecity. oneofthe campanile, century exceptthetwelfth- of interest, nothing elseaboutthechurch is liesbehindthealtar; mask, – 50 forafamously – p;free 4pm; PLACES Cannaregio 107 s Jews ’ at a s Jewish ’ – 32, the Scola Ghetto indeed, the – – THE MUSEO EBRAICO Ghetto (1633).The gates Ghetto Vecchio became Venice became t until the unification of s population was often s population was ’ ’ Each wave of Jewish of Each wave permanent protection price. the In 1516 Nuovo quarter, when all the city onto this to move forced were in the northsmall island of Cannaregio.At the Ghetto night Venice gates,sealed by was yet the by liberal markedly was time, of the standards the and Ghetto swelled by refugees from less from refugees by swelled tolerant societies population soon spread Jewish into the (1541) and the Nuovissimo finally torn of the Ghetto were Napoleon in 1797, by down but it wasn equal achieved Italy that Jews citizens. status with their fellow immigrants maintained their with their synagogues own rites:distinctive the Scola was German (for Jews) Tedesca founded in 1528, the Scola al from Jews Canton (probably in 1531 Provence) (eastern Levantina Mediterranean) in 1538, the Scola Spagnola (Spanish) at an uncertain date in the later sixteenth century, and the Scola Italiana in 1575. Funded by trading particularly prosperous , s ’ The geto Places 6pm. – ll reach the ll reach ’ noon & 4 noon & s longest facades longest ’ – is probably derived is probably – the first Venetian the first a name bequeathed to – – Sat 10am – Argeson, as who served Contents ’ foundry, which is what used to be. this area of the The creation a Ghetto was consequence of the of the League of War Cambrai, when fled of Jews hundreds the mainland in fear of the Imperial army. in Gaining safe haven Venice, of the many donated funds fugitives for the defence of the city, and were with rewarded French ambassador to Venice. ambassador to French The Ghetto Venetian The name of the Ghetto of all other such enclaves oppression Mon San Giobbe Palazzo Labia Palazzo overlooks the Canale di overlooks Cannaregio, the main entrance the rail and before Venice to constructed; links were road if turn along its you left rather than going fondamenta the Ponte over with the flow delle Guglie, you (Venice Archi Tre dei Ponte only multiple-span bridge) only multiple-span and of San Giobbe. the church Dedicated to Job, whose sufferings him greatly endeared (who were Venetians to the afflicted with malaria,regularly water- plague and a plethora of diseases),related is the church mainly for its interesting and doorway exquisitely carved chancel Lombardo. of Pietro projects The tomb with the ludicrous place of the lions is the resting magnificently named Renato de Signore de Palmy Voyer d from the Venetian dialect Venetian the from Cannaregio PLACES known as His Calvary assigned themtothepainter Carpaccios you h ae Underthenuns the nave. wall of hang ontheright-hand Flagellation chancel restoration hasrefreshed the but prone todamp, notoriously thechurch ofSant city, ofthe periphery on thenorthern rccoscidod they precocious childhood; or ChorusPass Mon Sant 10am June & Jewish holidays: Scola Tedesca (dailyexceptSat Museo Ebraico inthe guided tourthatbegins informative English-language inan and theScolaItaliana, along withtheScolaalCanton of theabove canbeviewed, two stillusedonadailybasis. andare theonly the synagogues, Spagnola are themostlavish of Levantina andtheScola theScola communities, 108 would indeed have been justan when he produced around 1470, but were actually by Carpaccio, w 3.30pm inwinter; tour 5.30pminsummer, last English onthehalf-hour, which costs tour, 10am to theNazideathcamps. the 200 Venetian Jews deported by Arbit Blatascommemorating ofseven aseries reliefs people: oftheJewishultimate suffering campo isareminder ofthe textilesandfurniture. objects, sacred mainly ofsilverware, museum Contents eedn ntesao,one Depending ontheseason, In the northern corner ofthe corner In thenorthern www.jewishvenice.org – ’ Crown of Thorns ll findeightsmallpaintings, Sat 10am Sat ’ – – Alvise 4.30pm; Oct 7pm; ’ s immense by Giambattista Tiepolo. ’ s collectionconsists “ slightlyearlierworks, , ” The Baby since Ruskin – – p,Sun1 5pm,

see p.171 e – above the , 3 orfree with May e Road to 8; tours in tours 8; and . ’ – Alvise is – Located 5pm. ).The Sept ’ Places choir ’ re not ’ s e 2 with hisname. circulate vindictive verses signed and nose), statue withtherusty “ denunciations atthefeetof malicious citizensusedtoleave known as andhencewere Peloponnese), hailed from theMorea (the figures are embedded palace intowhichtwo ofthe whousedtolive inthe brothers, merchants called theMastelli of associated withafamily arecampo.They popularly statuesaround the century come from thefourthirteenth- asquare whosenamemay Mori, come across theCampodei Goingthisway you south. main street immediately tothe the the Fondamenta dellaSensa, orcross over thecanalto trip, either take aone-stopvaporetto Madonna dell To getfrom Sant Campo deiMori Louis of Toulouse. – Venetian version ofLouis/Luigi infant. Sior Antonio Rioba Sior Antonio thechurch isdedicatedtoSt “ Alvise Mori ” ’ Orto youOrto can by isthe theway, , .Venice ’ Alvise to CAMPO DEIMORI ” – ’ s more (the they ’ ll PLACES Cannaregio s ’ 109 – s ’ is , on the – by Cima by St John the Presentation of the , at the end of the right San Leonardo were San Leonardo à chancel, none is a match for but the tender Virgin aisle, a fascinating makes which Titian comparison with of the Accademia version incident.A of the major figure early Venetian Renaissance Cima da Conegliano a by represented Baptist and Other Saints first altar on the right; a Madonna and Child great contemporary, Giovanni Bellini, the first used to occupy chapel on the left, thieves but made off with it in 1993. Strada Nova between The main land route the train station and the Rialto in the 1870s bridge created was Austrians. the by But whereas the Lista di Spagna and Rio Te r r formed filling canals with by earth, was the Strada Nova ploughing a simply by created the houses line straight through that used to stand there. Outside 2 . , its e ), by and orto Places 5pm. – . Madonna s parish ’ St Christopher Orto ’ see p.171 Orto, the ORTO

’ ’ 5pm, Sun 1 – Santi, found in a – ’ The Last Judgement Sat 10am – MADONNA DELL Outside, is notable the church Contents Other Tintorettos adornTintorettos the Other began working miracles;began working brought in 1377,into the church the sits now figure restored heavily in the Cappella di San Mauro. for its statue of elegent portal and its campanile, one of the most notable landmarks when approaching the northern from Venice lagoon. Inside, paintings by a massive make Tintoretto impact, so than the none more on each side of the epic picures choir: The Making of the Golden Calf nearby vegetable garden ( garden vegetable nearby Giovanni de Giovanni Tintoretto familyTintoretto church, the finest is arguably Venice. in Gothic church in the name of St Founded Christopher some time around 1350, popularly renamed it was after a large stone Madonna dell Madonna dell Mon or Chorus Pass or Chorus Pass Cannaregio PLACES majolica vases. with eighteenth-century kittedout woodwork inwalnut, seventeenth-century heavy-duty awonderful displayVenice, of in shopinterior surviving PonciFarmacia the word 8.15am Mon 8.15am Ca Fra statue ofatrue Venetian hero, standsa ofStradaNova, start atthe the church of SantaFosca, 110 See, recognize thestyleof theHoly with adaggerinhisface. three menand leftfordead Fosca whenhewas setuponby was walking homepastSanta OnenightSarpi secular affairs. in to acceptpapaljurisdiction excommunicated foritsrefusal when thewholecitywas oftheseventeenthstart century, in itsrow withthe Vatican atthe the adviserto Venetian state Galileo scholar andscientist(heassisted inconspicuous calleleadsdown Contents costeSrd oa the Across theStradaNova, CA ’ d ’ ” ’ D Paolo Sarpi ap upe,punningon quipped, Sarpi ’ Oro – ’ ORO WELL-HEAD ’ 7.15pm. s researches), Sarpi was Sarpi s researches), “ – stiletto p,Tues 2pm, e 5. ” .A brilliant .A An Hesurvived. . has theoldest – Sat Places “ I Bellini andPisanello. fine specimensby Gentile Renaissance medalscontaining of StCatherine polyptych of Englishalabaster century asixteenth- Flemish collection, Child an anonymous Young Couple Lombardo artists pieces from lesswell-known et andyou best, Tintoretto are notamongtheir the canvases by Titian and but found onthesecondfloor, big namesof Venetian are art Many ofthe floor. on thefirst installed inachapel-like alcove now before hisdeath in1506, painted by undoubtedly the The gallery Franchetti Giorgio Galleria Venice andhomeofthe domestic Gothicarchitecture in theshowpiece of Gold), part of part mostinteresting station.The from theRialtototrain anelbow ontheroad Apostoli, come totheCampodeiSanti endoftheStradayou eastern chancel. ofthe chapel totheright plaque ofStSebastian inthe who alsocarved thepeculiar is probably by Tullio Lombardo, Marco (on theright) her father thetombof to SanSalvatore; here beforeburied beingmoved whowas Cornaro, to Caterina inthechapelis the inscriptions of One Giambattista Tiepolo. is the where thealtarpiece side, right Daily 7.30 Santi Apostoli to theCa is the in themidstof Communion ofStLucy Cappella Corner – Santi Apostoli suchas Tullio – 11.30am &5 ’ ’ s beautifullycarved d Mantegna ’ s mainattractionis ’ Oro (Houseof Lookouttoofor . ’ Scenes fromtheLife ll getmore out of andacaseof , Madonna and St Sebastian – 7pm. shortly church offthe , At the by . PLACES Cannaregio 111 Like the Like Oro, this ’ started life as d ’ , further east along Located in an alley Al Bacco 041.717.493. Closed Mon. directly opposite the one directly leading to the Ca and modestly long-established priced is fronted little restaurant a bar offeringby a mouthwatering selection of Michele, and the Murano northern lagoon. day On a clear their course as follow can you far island of as the distant Burano, be might even you and to the startlingtreated sight of Dolomite peaks, the snowy hangingapparently in the sky Veneto. the over Restaurants Al Bacco delle Cappuccine 3054 Fondamenta T Antica Mola the canal, neighbourhood stop- a humble off, into a fully has grown but fledged restaurant, with prices to match. a rough-and- It retains feel,ready the food is but distinctly classy. Alla Vedova Calle del Pistor 3912.Thurs Closed all & Sun lunch. Places t the on the ’ The s close ’ 29, six 6pm. in 1558. – – Titian noon & 4 – THE GESUITI Contents The long waterfront to the The long waterfront north of the Gesuiti, the NoveFondamente (or Nuove), is the point at which the for San the city leave vaporetti The Fondamente Nove Daily 10am The Gesuiti major monument in the in major monument northeastern corner of Cannaregio is Santa Maria Assunta, commonly known simply as the Gesuiti. Built for in 1714 the Jesuits decades after the foundation of their firsthere monastery in Venice, clearly was the church an impression planned to make habitually on a city that was mistrustful of the order relationship with the papacy. relationship Although the disproportionately huge facade clearly wasn of a weekend,work most of the into the stupefying effort went interior, green and white where and wall every covers marble to resemble stone is carved of damask.Theswags only painting to seek out is the Martyrdom of St Lawrence first altar on the left, which was painted by Cannaregio PLACES excellent solid table ad.Bookingadvisable. cards. Nocredit extensive winelist. backed upby an dishes, moderately priced Venetian serves thesameinventive and ottuit.Ifyou can most tourists. runs runs whosehusband byrun Elena, osteria has been puttingmore emphasis This trendy bar-cum-restaurant t Campiello delPegolotto 1828 La Colombina enough. the standard dishesare reliable though rather thanthemenu, usually goforthepizzalist who Always heaving withlocals, Calle dell Casa Mia Calle Sele1423 Bentigodi Closed Wed. Fondamenta degliOrmesini2800. Antica Mola it canals, Cannaregio northernmost Situated by oneofthe meals andunfussyatmosphere. reasonably priced for thesuperb, Hugely popularwith Venetians T Fondamenta dellaSensa3272 Anice Stellato cicheti 112 tables outfront. garden atthe backandcanalside good value.There but thefoodremains tourists, become very popularwith has neartheGhetto, trattoria, Sun &Mon. credit cards. No and agoodrangeofwines. Contents 4.7.62 Daily6.30pm 041.275.0622. 4.2.4.ClosedMon& Tues. 041.720.744. Bancogiro – – (the just outsidetheghetto, atleastdrop by forthe it ’ c 40 Closed Tues. Oca 4430. ’ s rathertooremote for ’ s frequently booked cicheti This family-run Friendly modern Friendly polpette t nSnPl.She in SanPolo. 4.1.6.Closed 041.716.269. at thebar. ’ s anice are famous) ’ t geta Places – 2am. a-rtoi.It bar-trattoria. Mon. Closed Felice 3628a. Fondamenta S. Vini daGigio t Rio Ter Il Solesulla Vecia Cavana dishes. standards with Tuscan meat aquatic mixing Venetian many ofitsmid-rangerivals, dissimilarto menu isstrikingly but the toitsappeal, still crucial hugewinelistis success.The withgreat business recently, on thelattteraspectof wines. Excellent well worth themoney. but Notcheap, basil ice-cream. toadeliciously strange tartare from awonderfulranging tuna issimilarly appealing, Monti, assembled by owner Stefano carefully menu, watering andthemouth- interior, panelling create aninviting orange walls andwooden .veciacavana.it 041.528.7106, Popular, family-run wine family-run Popular, á SS 4624 Apostoli ClosedMon. . w ’ s now onthe www The PLACES Cannaregio s ’ 113 blues, jazz One of a – usually on Sun, – Lashings of simple Sat till 2am. – 11pm. – number of barsnumber beside this long canal, and a particularly pleasant snack in spot for a lunchtime the sun. leading boho bar, attracting students, arty types and the gay community. Music or whatever (but not always inexpensive) not always (but at served food are Venetian tables,refectory-like but Venice essentially this place is sometimes Mon. Osteria ai Ormesini da Aldo da Osteria ai Ormesini 2710. degli Ormesini Fondamenta Open Mon Paradiso Perduto della Misericordia 2540. Fondamenta later, Open 7.30pm to midnight or Wed. closed Live music (Latin, music Live and jazz) rock 9 Tues Places atmosphere and atmosphere ò bacar Sun till 2am, happy hour This cross between a between This cross – della Maddalena 2329. della Maddalena Open à and a Mexican cantina

7.30pm. CANTINA VECIA CARBONERA Contents – Fondamenta della Misericordia 2517. Fondamenta Open Tues Iguana 6 till 11pm most nights, Mon. closed Rio Terr Old-style Cantina Vecia Cantina Vecia Carbonera attract a chilled-out playlist young, stylish clientele. Good wine, snacks and excellent plenty of space to sit down. Bars and snacks Bars and tourist map yet it retains its tourist it retains map yet still, and is authenticity by standards,Venetian excellent value. bacar Tex- priced reasonably serves crowd. Mex fare to a young Central Castello PLACES main promenade, the the collection, themuseumat geographical location,Castello distributed, butintermsofitsimportanceand this boundaryiscovered inthenextchapter. Piet in theeastatalinedrawnnorthfrom thelandmark lagoon,andstops back ofSantiApostolitothenorthern chapter startsoff from thewaterwaythatcutsround the have beenusedinlayingoutourguide.Inthewest,this unwieldy asestiere thatsomewhat altered boundaries estates ofSant the cityfrom Cannaregio inthewesttohousing Zaccaria area southern zone southern San GiovanniCrisostomo Miracoli minutes awaystandsthemuch-loved Zanipolo immense Gothicchurch of B Central Castello 114 Chrysostom withSS Chrysostom heavy gracefully Sebastiano delPiombo andonthehighaltar, eighties; was1513 whentheartist inhis and Louisof Toulouse Bellini, of thelastworks by Giovanni hangsone chapel totheright inthe outstanding altarpieces: and possessestwo Codussi, the lastproject of Mauro Itwas possibly Constantinople. of eloquent Archbishop namedafterthe Mouthed), (John theGolden- Crisostomo SanGiovanni of Castellostands Mon San GiovanniCrisostomo Sun 3 Contents The pointsofinterest inthisarea are evenly ordering SanMarco ononesideandspreading across – Museo Diocesano à Sat 8.15am Sat – church; theatmospherically distinctarea beyond 7pm. SS , which in turn isclosetotheoften overlooked , whichinturn . On the western edge On thewestern ), thepantheonofVenice , right by the southern waterfront andVenice, rightbythesouthern eoe Christopher Jerome, – 12.15pm &3 ’ St John s dominantbuildingisthemajestic – ’ Elena intheeast,Castelloisso . the painted in , John the ’ s Querini-Stampalia Places Riva degliSchiavoni – 7pm, ’ s sacred artcollection.This San GiorgiodeiGreci Santi GiovanniePaolo . Themuseumslieinthe 1509 Agnes andCatherine Magdalen, Mary Liberale, Baptist, classical music.The Byzantine classical music.The of thecity theMalibran is one restoration, following avery protracted Quiterecently unveiled here. afund-raisingrecitalgiving theatre from by bankruptcy (1808 Malibran soprano Maria renamed inhonourofthegreat andsoonafter in the1790s, was rebuiltseventeenth century, whichopenedinthe Malibran, isthe Crisostomo Teatro Behind SanGiovanni Teatro Malibran ’ s centralbuildingisthe – – ’ 11. s doges.Acoupleof 6,whosaved the 36), ’ Santa Mariadei s chiefvenues for picture . paintedin , , and San (or ’ s

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DE FA 0 100m Canale della Canale AN I GR E Contents Al Leon Canada Caneva Casa Querini Casa Verardo Danieli Doni Locanda Leon Bianco Paganelli Scandinavia D HOTELS HOSTELS Foresteria Valdese LLE Rialto CA 1, 82, N arches on the facadearches of the once said to have are theatre been part house of of the Polo Marco CANAL in the heavily lived probably the palace overlooking restored canal at the back of the Malibran, the Ponte from visible Polo. Marco Central Castello PLACES 3.30 Mon Santi GiovanniePaolo Madonna miracle-working and out.The bothinside exquisite carving them executed much ofthe andthethree of construction, Antonio oversaw the he andhistwo sons Tullio and certainly by Pietro Lombardo; church was mostlikely designed painting leftatthe Financed by gifts dead afterbeingstabbed. canal andofawoman leftfor at thebottomofGiudecca a manwho was credited withtherevival of 116 mission (preaching to and whosesocial mendicant orders, was built foroneofthe dialect into Paolo edifice ofSantiGiovanni e themassive Gothicbrick Frari, Contents SANTA MARIADEIMIRACOLI – – Sat 7.30am Sat p,Sun3 7pm, – ’ erysrn,the s nearby shrine, slurred byslurred the Venetian still occupiesthealtar. ’ d spenthalfanhour a Zanipolo San – – 12.30pm & 6pm. Like the Places – tombs of Doge Giovanni were alsoresponsible forthe Cross Vivarini excellent painting,Alvise itselfcontainsan (The sacristy left ofthedoortosacristy. tothe found intheleftaisle, Malipiero (d.1462) tomb forDoge Pasquale in Venice examples ofRenaissancestyle while oneoftheearliest diagonallyopposite, (d.1478), Doge Andrea Vendramin represented by thetombof blown Renaissancepompis Renaissance faithlessness and theboastfulpompof calmness ofearlyChristianity, feeling between thepure conditionof intermediate showed a work whichtoRuskin tomb atthefront ontheright, inthe isburied plague in1382, four monthsbefore dyingof forjust whoruled Morosini, chancel .) The Lombardo family monuments are inthe twenty-five otherdoges. houses thetombsofsome high inthecentre 33metres the transepts, 38metres wideat long, approximately 90metres cavernous interior the Tiepolo (d.1275); son Doge Lorenzo nexttothatofhis door, ontheleftof outside, simple sarcophagus is Dominicans.Tiepolo to donatetheland was inspired by adream Doge Giacomo Tiepolo was begunin1246after church built onthissite first congregrations.The space fortheir poor) required alotof tending thesickand “ The finestfunerary ’ where Doge Michele , s the exactly – Christ Carrying the Carrying Christ Pietro Lombardo – istobe ” ’ – – s eyes Full- . ’ s ’ s PLACES Central Castello s and ’ , s ’ 117 an – by him by Cappella , San the and Titian The The Assumption , at the end of the Adoration , t miss ’ s two most celebrated s two ’ Madonna s s rulers, with their cult of ’ ’ And don The Colleoni monument When he died in 1475, the mercenary captain Bartolomeo Colleoni left a legacy of some Venetian 700,000 ducats to the state. a snag: was But there the the money Signoria could have only if an equestrian monument in the erected to him were San Marco before square Martyrdom of St Peter del Rosario north transept. In 1867 a fire its paintings by destroyed Tintoretto, plus Giovanni Bellini Zanipolo paintings.Atwentieth- lengthy century made use of restoration surviving fragments and installed Veronese other pieces such as ceiling panels of Annunciation of the Shepherds Adoration The and another unthinkable proposition to proposition unthinkable Venice was problem anonymity.The with a fine piece circumvented on the left of the door. , St s ’ most . Places – SS s tutor, ’ (1542). , the only Giovanni Coronation of the . s polyptych of St Antonine ’ attributed to Cima da s ’ At the top of the right aisle, SANTI GIOVANNI E PAOLO Contents Mocenigo and Doge Pietro Mocenigo and Doge Mocenigo, to the right and left of the main door. Close by, the second altar of the right aisle is adorned one of Zanipolo by ceiling panel in Venice by Venice ceiling panel in Giambattista Piazzetta, Giambattista Tiepolo finest paintings, Bellini Dominic in Glory Virgin Conegliano and Giovanni Martini da Udine, and Lorenzo Lotto covers the vault of the vault the covers Cappella di San Domenico shrinealongside which is a tiny of St containing a relic Catherine of Siena. in She died 1380 and her body promptly market the relic entered of it is in Rome, her head is but in Siena, is here, one foot and other, scattered are lesser relics about Italy. Round the corner, in the south transept, other two superb paintings hang close together: a Vincent Ferrer, Christopher and Sebastian Central Castello PLACES sculpture. ofRenaissance masterpieces masculinity isoneofthe idealized imageofsteely this was worth it: certainly but thewait unveiled until1496, Oct – oneofwhich above thearches, paintings highonthewalls ofeighteenth-century series less extravagant has a interior much according toRuskin.The monstrous madeit of itsfacade heads andover-ripe decorations giants leering of Zanipolo.The beyond theeastend Derelitti), dei Ospedaletto (orSantaMaria attached tothechurch ofthe Another hospitalblock is April The Ospedaletto in Venice. sculpturalpieces most charming they are nonethelessamongthe but create theintendedillusion, Lombardo mightnotquite panels by Tullio and Antonio theperspectival as awhole, 1495 by Mauro Codussi.Taken andfinishedin Croce sestiere, homeoveroriginal in theSanta scuola moved here from its afterthe halfacentury in 1487, Lombardo and Giovanni Buora was byThe facade Pietro started and foyer for Venice provides asumptuousfacade now Grande diSanMarco, Colleoni di SanMarco The ScuolaGrande Verrocchio rather thantheBasilica.Andrea before theScuola diSanMarco, theraisingofstatue permit Colleoni by which of disingenuousness, 118 (fourth ontheright).The (fourth early Giambattista Tiepolo

Contents The Sacrifice ofIsaac The Sacrifice – – March samedays3 Sept Thurs ’ ’ s willwas taken to s backdrop, the Scuola the s backdrop, ” ’ s statuewasn building inthecity, – Sat 3.30 Sat ’ – s hospital. “ 6pm. – – the most 6.30pm; isan ’ t finally Places ’ squares inthe city. most attractive andatmospheric andoneofthe Canal Grande, routes ontheeastsideof isamajorconfluenceof Rialto, Zanipolo andthePonte di San equidistant from thePiazza, Formosa Maria The wide Santa MariaFormosa 10am Formosa concerts isstillusedfor century, frescoed in the eighteenth adjoining music room ( Madonna dream inwhich hesaw the whowas guidedby a Oderzo, Bishopof by SanMagno, founded intheseventh century PassChorus uo n euiu.Outside, buxom andbeautiful. which mostcloselytranslatesas CAMPANILE OFSANTAMARIAFORMOSA The – hrho SantaMaria church of p,Sun1 5pm, many ofthemfree. , formosa formosa Campo diSanta (Mon –

see p.171 – virtually , Sat – –

5pm; a word e ) was e 2), ,or 2, PLACES Central Castello 119 s ’ East of Arte ’ 6pm. they were they – – , the only 12.30pm. Donation – noon & 4 – Beside the Rio di , the permanent where Apollonia ’ Apollonia, di the Salizzada ’ here, is set by general tone the of eighteenth- the culture Venice,period a to century of the palace which much decor belongs.The winningly Gabriel by inept pieces Bella of record form a comprehensive life in that social Venetian century, and the more paintings of genre accomplished Longhi Alessandro and Pietro as well. prominently feature a look at take you sure Make and ground-floor the gardens exhibition space San Zaccaria Daily 10am The Museo Diocesano Daily 10.30am requested. Palazzo, at the back of the Ducale,Palazzo stands the early fourteenth-century cloister of Sant Romanesque cloister in the city. the Basilica di Fragments from dating back to the San Marco here, ninth century displayed are of sculptural and a miscellany are other churches pieces from in the adjoining on show Museo Diocesano d Sant San Provolo, leading east out of Campo Santi Filippo e Giacomo, runs straight to the redesigned in the 1960s by the in the 1960s by redesigned sleek modernist Carlo Scarpa. Sacra collection consists chiefly of a range of religious artefacts and from paintings gathered closed down that have churches or entrusted their possessions to the safety of the museum. In addition, works restored freshly other collections or from sometimes pass churches here,through giving the an edge of museum unpredictability. ll ’ s ’ s ’ s ’ Places 7.30pm. – 24), praised by an almost – “ The Madonna and 6pm, & until 10pm Fri – , years painted five s ’ (bean),All once an noon & 4.30 (1473), in a nave The Madonna of the .Although is a there – (1522 . Barbara is the patron fava On the south side of ” Day speciality of a local Day Education of the Virgin Education of the 6. ’ Sun 10am – e Contents Campo Santa Maria Formosa, a canal a narrow footbridge over Querini-leads into the Palazzo Stampalia, home of the Pinacoteca Querini- Stampalia batch of Renaissance pieces Tues The Querini-Stampalia Souls and still a seasonal treat. baker On the first altar on the right Tiepolo stands Giambattista Daily 8.30am Santa MariaBetween Formosa and the Rialto stands the church (or of Santa Maria della Fava Santa Maria della Consolazione), whose peculiar cake a sweet from name derives called a Santa Maria della Fava the most unusual feature is the feature unusual the most the at the base of mask campanile: both a talisman and a eye against the evil a man with the depiction of as disorder congenital same rare Elephant the so-called disfigured Man.The contains two church good paintings. Entering from side,the west the first you one Sat. St Philip Neri early (1732); on the other side of the there church Giambattista Piazzetta. earlier by see is Bartolomeo Vivarini see is Bartolomeo triptych of Misericordia chapel on the right-hand side of the church. Nearby, closer to the Vecchio main altar, il is Palma George Eliot as of a hero- unique presentation woman saint of artillery-men, which is her the painting shows why on a cannon. treading St Barbara Central Castello PLACES architectural feature isits Renaissance styles. mixture ofGothicand result isadistinctively Venetian storey end first upwards.The took over from thefacade the who later by Mauro Codussi, concluded someseventy years rebuilding project thatwas embarked onamassive Gambello 1444,Antonio in rebuilt several timeswhen, Zaccaria the Baptist, ofJohn father the Zaccharias, forthebodyof as ashrine ofSanZaccaria. sanctuary murdered ashefledforthe was him from Constantinople, brought theplaguebackwith Byzantine empire but also peace negotiationswiththe having notonlyblundered in 1172 Doge Vitale MichielII, andin fromreturned vespers, murdered inthecampoashe 864 Doge Pietro Tradonico was In a spotwithchequered past. elegant 120 Contents BELLINI The interior Founded intheninthcentury ’ S SANZACCARIAALTARPIECE Campo SanZaccaria had already been hrho San church of ’ s notable Places , of eightearlydoges. place theburial crypt, century waterloggedperpetually ninth- Downstairs isthespookyand Giovanni d by Antonio and Vivarini wonderful compositealtarpieces well worth itforthethree San Tarasio aisle)is (offtheright Sant enter theCappelladi hogddrn h a,with theday, thronged during isconstantly entrance, Arsenale the canaljustbefore the edge ofthePalazzo Ducaleto stretching from the Schiavoni, The broad Riva degli The RivadegliSchiavoni the left.The the left.The onthesecondaltar (1505), large outshone by Giovanni allofthem paintings, century seventeenth- andeighteenth- ishungwith surface Nearlyevery inchofwall visit. of thedoges accommodate theannual ritual might have beenbuilt to uniquein it Venice, ambulatory: ’ Atanasio andCappelladi Madonna andFourSaints ’ Alemagna (all1443). ’ e Easter Sunday 1 feepayable to Bellini ’ s PLACES Central Castello 121 dei ò 1pm) , the – 5pm; – 1pm & s gallery) ’ – Museo di 12.30pm & Madoneri – (women s sixteenth-century ’ Sat 9.30am Sat 9am – – 5.30pm, Sun 9am Founded in Venice, Coin is in Founded The family-run Filippi – 4.30pm, Sun 10am 4), a collection of matroneo The Scuola di San Nicol – San Giorgio dei Greci (Mon Shops Coin Salizzada San Giovanni Crisotomo 5790. Venezia Filippi Editore Caselleria 5284 & Calle del Paradiso 5763. now a nationwide department now store, specialising in clothes.An a to acquire way inexpensive of Italian style. semblance of range a vast produces business facsimile Venice-related editions, Francesco including Sansovino 3.30 guide to the city (the first city and sells published) guide ever lurches spectacularly canalwards. spectacularly lurches The GreekVenice in presence the eleventh from strong was century, and became stronger of seizure Turkish still after the Constantinople. a century Built later, has Orthodox church the elements including architectural a Dipinti Sacri Bizantini (Mon above the main entrance and an above that screen) iconostasis (or rood high completely cuts off the altar.The icons on the screen Byzantine pieces include a few dating back as far as the twelfth century. Greci, to the left of the church, the houses now 2 e fifteenth- to predominantly eighteenth-century icons, many the of them by and Cretan school of Greek in that Venice in artists working period. ). . . s ’ Places à s smart ’ The is still à t begin walk north walk ’ ’ 38). During 6pm. – see p.161 – s death.The ( ’ s busiest music s busiest ’ The Glory of Paradise , the campanile of noon & 4 à – à wrote many of his many wrote s second term Giorgio ’ 18) and later as 67, and Henry James The Portrait of a Lady – – Hotel Danieli Contents The Greek quarter A couple of minutes of La Piet Daily 10am The Piet an unceasing flow of flow an unceasing touristspromenading and passengers hurrying from to and stops,its vaporetto threading stalls and the souvenir through African of the past the wares vendors.The has street Riva Venice of long been one stayed at no.stayed 4161, battling to against constant distractions finish addresses. and his Petrarch at no.daughter lived 4145 in 1362 Vivaldi Massari a competition to won the church,rebuild and it choirmaster (1735 Vivaldi finest pieces for the orphanage attached to the church, where as violinmaster he worked (1704 main eyecatcher on the Riva is on the Riva main eyecatcher the white facade of Santa Maria della Visitazione, known less cumbersomely as La Piet George Sand, Charles Dickens, the ever- and Proust,Wagner in at Ruskin all checked present the probable that the composer that probable advised him on acoustics, didn though building Vivaldi until after white and gold interior is a superb ceiling by crowned painting of Tiepolo. Giambattista by Unfortunately the Piet one of Venice one of venues, mostly for second-rate favourites, Vivaldi of renditions and just about the only time can get a peek inside is you office is open. when the box Central Castello PLACES outdoor tables. but has room onlyinside, Standing other savoury tarts). pastine with thecity regarded 8pm. small outlet. Top-grade icecreams atthis Opendaily. Lio5727. Salizzada S. La Boutiquedel Gelato OpenMon Campo Marina5910. Didovich pasticcerie Caf Canonica. Rio on Palazzo Trevisan-Cappello, Kerer about Venice initstwo shops. an amazingstockofbooks 122 exclusive. bothaffordable and lace, showroom sellsawiderangeof thisvast Basilica diSanMarco, huge palazzoattherear ofthe Contents FILIPPI EDITOREVENEZIA A new but already highly é abrie pumpkinand (aubergine, s and Occupying ofa part pasticceria ’ s besttiramis – somesay Places ù – and Sat till Sat Alle Testiere Closed Wed. Filippo eGiacomo4357. Campo SS. Aciugheta Restaurants sandwiches. spread ofcakesglorious and Pasticceria ClosedSat. Lio5689. Salizzada S. Snack &Sweet iflow oncharisma. coffee, leading caf Another branchof Venice Campo SantiGiovanniePaolo. Rosa Salva T Calle MondoNuovo5801 of anchovies onthe wall. anchovy name translatesas nibble orhave asameal.The Goodbarfoodto gondoliers. from waterbus staffand itdraws alotofitscustom nose, without paying through the closest spottoSanMarco toeat attached.The pizzeria-trattoria ACIUGHETA 4.2.20 ClosedSun&Mon, 041.522.7220. ” and barwitha and there are paintings A barwithasizeable é can Excellent chain. “ the little ’ s PLACES Central Castello ” 123 s main ’ pizza al Buzzing ).The 1am. – The city ) or the Cassa di Traditional-style Flying Dutchman “ see p.66 Sat 6pm 30 (with discounts for – The e see p.75 , of with a wide selection ) in the city. Olandese Volante ’ across the canal from the west from the canal across Santa Mariaside of Formosa, offersthis place range the widest pizza slices ( of take-out taglio Osteria da Baco Calle delle Rasse 4620. Open daily until midnight or later. Music Malibran Teatro Corte Milion 5873. Enoteca Mascareta Maria Formosa Calle Lunga Santa 5183. Mon delicious snacks. wine bar with L Campo San Lio. Open until 12.30am, & Sat,until 2am Fri Sun closed morning. osteria filling sandwiches. venue for big-name classical venue concerts, it also hosts the but occasional major-league jazz gig such as and Italian rockers Ligabue.Tickets usually start at around under-30s), and can be bought box the Fenice from in advance office ( Venezia, Campo Risparmio di San Luca ( office sells Malibran ticket only on the night of the tickets concert, 30min around from the start.before is a busy brasserie-styleis a busy pub tables. with plenty of outdoor osteria the Places – Very small Very , the but Located ” The name of Typical Typical Brilliant trattoria, . to book Be sure

9pm, Tues. closed –

041.528.5281. Mon lunch, Closed 041.523.0089. Mon evening Closed Contents Tuscan Wine Wine Shop Tuscan locals pack this place every night. Prices rising are in tandem reputation, with its burgeoning still reasonable. are but serving homemade gorgeous gnocchi Tues, and a few days after Carnevale mid-July to mid-Aug. and all Tues. and all just off Campo Santi Giovanni just off Campo Santi Giovanni e Paolo. Good for a glass of wine and a snack. mid-range seafood restaurant seafood mid-range Marianear Santa Formosa, with specials and a excellent daily selection.superb wine at Sittings to handle the 7pm and 9pm demand. Calle Mondo Nuovo 5799. Open 9am Cip Ciap Calle Larga G. Gallina 6378. Open till 8.30pm, Sun. closed Al Ponte Bars and snacks Salizzada S. Crisostomo 5719 Giovanni T Fiaschetteria Toscana Salizzada dei Greci 3416 Salizzada dei Greci T Da Remigio and mid-July to mid-Aug. and mid-July this upmarket restaurant means restaurant this upmarket “ Venetian. is quintessentially menu Highly rated for its food, the Fiaschetteria also has an excellent wine list.The service is immaculate, an and the place has understated elegance. 124 Eastern Castello For all that most visitors see of the eastern section of the Castello sestiere, the city may as well peter out a few metres beyond the Palazzo Ducale. Sights are thinly spread here, and a huge bite is taken out of the area by

PLACES the wharves of the Arsenale, yet the slab of the city immediately to the west of the Arsenale contains places

Ospedale Civile 41, 42, 51, 52

Celestia 41, 42, 51, 52

Eastern Castello S. Francesco della Vigna Bacini 41, 42, 51, 52 R. di S. G S. Giustina iovanni CAMPO Laterano R DELLA .delFontego R. di S. Francesco CELESTIA

S. Lorenzo R. d C e CAMPO S. ele lla

stia R. S. Lorenzo LORENZO

Canale delle Galeazze Darsena Scuola di Grande le S. Giorgio a R. dei Scudi n

rse io h S. Antonino A c SA a c L D R. dell' R. delle Gorne n . GRECI e SAL. S. V R. d ANTONIN rse a ARSENALE

S. Zaccaria à Arco D R. dei Greci t ie P CAMPO CAMPO

la l R. S. Daniele La e BANDIERA DELL' d S. Martino Pietà . E MORO ARSENALE R S. Giovanni le in Bragora a RIVA DEGLI SCHIAVONI n Tana 52, 23 Ca' di rse R. Ca di Dio Dio S. Zaccaria See inset ll'A Museo RIVA CA DI DIO e CAMPO R. della Tana 1, 14, 20, 41, . d StoricoDELLA TANA Arsenale 1 R 42, 51, 52, 82, N 41, 42 Navale S. Francesco RIVA S. BIAGIO di Paola S. Biagio V. GARIBALDI

VLE. GARIBALDI Giardini RIVA DEI SETTE MARTIRI Garibaldi

V S. Giorgio . T Maggiore R 82, N Giardini Giardini EN TO 1, 41, 42, 51, 52, N RIVA DEI PARTIGIANI

San Giorgio Maggiore Teatro Verde

0 200 m

Contents Places 125 that shouldn’t be ignored – the Renaissance San Francesco della Vigna, for example, and the Scuola di San Giorgio degli Schiavoni, with its endearing cycle of paintings by Carpaccio. And although the

mainly residential area beyond the Arsenale has little to PLACES offer in the way of cultural monuments other than the ex-cathedral of San Pietro di Castello and the church of Sant’Elena, it would be a mistake to leave the

easternmost zone unexplored. For one thing, the whole Castello Eastern

S. Francesco della Vigna S. Giustina CAMPO DELLA CAMPO CONFRATERNITA DELLA R. del Fontego CELESTIA R. di S. Francesco

CAMPO S. R. della Celestia SAL. S. GIUSTINA C. DEL MORION S. Lorenzo TERNITA LIO . DELL’O C C. DRAZZI CAMPO O D. GATTE N G R. dei ScudiA Scuola di . M S. Giorgio C CPL. D. degli Schiavoni POZZI

o S. Antonino

R S Vecchi della Vergini ALD.GRECI ’ARCO R. delle Gorne à SAL. S. A t C. DELL e N R. dell'Arco i TO Darsena Arsenale P A Arsenal N a l IN IN S. Pietro l SAL. DEL R Gate

e T C S

d B 1 PIGNATER E a di Castello P

. L 2 CAMPO n R E

a CAMPO . D DELL' l C

d BANDIERA ARSENALE CAMPO e E MORO C RUGA S La . E

. S S. Martino P S. Pietro Pieta O i e D S. C. D. FORNO t 51, 52 L r E o D Giovanni . C in Bragora RIVA DEGLI SCHIAVONI C Ca' di Dio R. di Quintavalle R. Ca di Dio

3 S. Giuseppe N

R. dei Giardini Darsena di S. Elena

Biennale PubbliciPavilions Football I QUARTIERE Stadium V

I A

L E

C HOTELS P

SANT’ ELENA a I

A n 4 V a S. Elena Casa Linger A

E l e LENA Gabrielli Sandwirth C d . S. E i VLE S La Residenza B Parco delle Rim .

VIALE VITTORIO VENETOVIALE QUATTRO NOVEMBRE E

l e

n RESTAURANTS a Naval Corte Sconta embranze 2 College Dai Tosi 3 Osteria Sant’Elena 4 S. Elena 1, 41, 42, 51, 52 BARS & SNACKS Alla Rampa 1

Contents Places Eastern Castello PLACES the city, withthebestcominglast. length ofthewaterfront gives spectacularpanoramasof 126 Tues 9.30am & 3.30 April degli Schiavoni The ScuoladiSanGiorgio Bellini andassistants. Madonna andChild whichhasa Cappella Santa, viathe cloisters, century to apairoftranquilfifteenth- at theendoftranseptleads door chapel oftheleftaisle).A Conversazione anda chancel), Giustiniani chapel(leftofthe inthe Lombardo family marvellous sculpture by the transept), da Negroponte(right and ChildEnthroned glowingly colourful notably a works ofart, at thetime. which must have beenstunning but fromafterthought the side, that lookslike somethingofan afeature provide thefacade, Palladio was brought into ofitsconstruction. course was much modifiedinthe thepresent building in 1534, Begun be hisfinalresting place. that thelagoonislandswere to appeared to StMarktotellhim around here thattheangel according to traditionitwas in themythology of as Venice, della Vigna hasahallowed place occupied by SanFrancesco blocks your way.The ground Renaissancefacade striking couple ofminutes anda oneastforjusta but carry sight, attractive atfirst district San Zanipoloisnotan The area that liestotheeastof Daily 8am San Francescodella Vigna Contents The interior hassomefine The interior – – Oct Tues Sat 10am Sat – – .0m Sun 6.30pm, 12.30pm; Nov – 12.30pm &3 – – Sat 9.30am Sat by (last Veronese 12.30pm & 3 Sacra – by Giovanni March by Antonio – Madonna 6.30pm. – 12.30pm Places – 6pm, death). artists of most disarming Venetian by cyclesofpicturestwo brilliant Sun 10am a visiontoldhim of Jerome toStJeromewas writing when The Vision of St Augustine littlewhitedog in endearing St George limb-strewn feeding-ground of suchasthe packs thescene, incidental detailswithwhichhe much themainevent asthe holds your attentionisnotso what As always withCarpaccio, George,Tryphone andJerome. of theDalmatianpatron saints cycle illustratesmainlythelives Venice of theconfraternity Schiavoni, degli Scuola diSanGiorgio theotherin Accademia, SAN FRANCESCODELLAVIGNA Vittore Carpaccio – ’ s Slavic community.The oneisinthe – 12.30pm. ’ rgn or the s dragon, e 3. Venice has the , (he ’ s – PLACES Eastern Castello 127 s maritime ’ at close quarters.The s zenith, the around ’ s links with the easterns links ’ There is no public access to access is no public There equal to the population of a equal to the population Venice Mediterranean, the workers and and factories dockyards of these upon the foundations were which the city rested.supremacy By the 1420s the base for some it had become companies, 300 shipping of 3000 vessels operating around more;200 tons or at the Arsenale century, middle of the sixteenth and dry docks,its wet its rope and sail factories, its ordnance mills depots and gunpowder a total of 16,000 men employed – of the period.major town Arsenale,the can you but inspect the magnificent gateway first structure in Venice to Venice first structure in the classical vocabulary employ of Renaissance architecture, it is photogenic four by guarded Greece: from here lions brought furthest on the rightthe two the Lion from came probably at Delos,Terrace and date from the sixth centuryaround BC; stolen from the larger pair were Francesco Piraeus in 1687 by Morosini. on Places 5.30pm. gora – ) and á gora is Baptism á brago SS. Helen and ).The present a – by Alvise Vivarini, Alvise by to gora , to the right of the 11am & 3.30 11am & – (house of industry), the a ’ Sat 9 – ARSENALE GATE Contents very name of the Arsenale is name of the very of of the strength indicative A corruption of the Arabic A corruption of the darsin The Arsenale sacristy door, and a Mon Br in San Giovanni San Giovanni in Br in San Giovanni to best known probably the baptismal as Venetians Vivaldi.The Antonio of church to the is dedicated church Baptist, and some people think suffix is a that its strange to a region from reference of the saint which some relics once brought;were others link the name to the old dialect ( for mud words ( backwater begun in 1475, structure was and its best paintings were within a quarter-centurycreated of the rebuilding: a triptych by Vivarini,Bartolomeo on the wall the first and second between chapels on the right; a Resurrection the left of the sacristy door; and Cima da paintings by two Conegliano Constantine the high altar. Eastern Castello PLACES district where the repairing of where therepairing district Nowadays thisisaworkaday Venice tobeinhabited. ofcentral parts one ofthefirst way totheislandofSanPietro, pointsthe Garibaldi district.Via the socialhubofeastern the wideststreet inthecityand whatisnow form Via Garibaldi, di SanPietro was filledinto inletoftheCanale northeastern San Marco tothebroad canal connectingtheBacinodi ofthe part In 1808thegreater di Castello Via GaribaldiandSanPietro 8.45am Mon The MuseoStoricoNavale 128 people. justify theentrancefeeformost state ceremonial galley) galley andthelast gondola tothe224-oarfighting Venetian craft themodelsof though itsounds, Improbable district. Arsenale supplement toawalk round the selective tourisanessential but a somewhat diffuse museum, NavaleMuseo Storico isa Venice every conceivable of facet Contents MODEL INTHEMUSEOSTORICONAVALE – Fri 8.45am – ’ aa itr,the s naval history, 1pm. e – 1.55. – .0m Sat 1.30pm, from the Bucintoro Documenting – Places will (the obscured by the trees are the Largely Venice atsomepoint. that overtakes to mostvisitors remedy fortheclaustrophobia Rimembranze Pubblici Giardini Garibaldi by the spacesformed green the RiodiSant Stretching from to Via Garibaldi Biennale site The publicgardensandthe Castello present see.The interesting than whatyou can Pietro issomewhat more ofSan thehistory Arsenale, withthe Venice until1807.As the seatofPatriarch of centre of having been Venice, yet itwas oncetheecclesiastical boats isthemainoccupation, Sun 1 precarious inthecity.precarious oneofthemost campanile, andthe texts from theKoran, Arabic funeralstonecutwith from an century thirteenth a marble seatmadeinthe Throne ofStPeter aisle), (right features beingtheso-called itsmostengaging church, –

see p.171 – 5pm; (Mon and ) isanuncharismatic e Parco delle 2 or Chorus Pass2 orChorus ’ – ln,thearc of Elena, San Pietro di provide a Sat 10am , Giardini – 5pm, PLACES Eastern Castello 129 50 e , costing ELENA ’ SANT CORTE SCONTA degustazione (without wine), a you gives chance to sample all their specialities in one gourmet experience, the and is probably best meal that sum will get you city.in the entire If expenditure ù s ’ men ,a Places s navy ’ gora, this á s eastern Elena ’ ’ Biennale The island of s finest.The ’ s mother. ’ 7pm. –

Elena ’ Elena, the city Sat 5 ’ –

s worth visiting for the fine s worth 041.522.7024. Closed Sun & Mon. ’ Contents restaurant is a candidate for the restaurant Venice title of t in a lane to the east of Secreted in Br San Giovanni Corte Sconta 3886 Calle del Pestrin Restaurants monument is Sant monument church, founded in the thirteenth century house the to body of St Helena, Constantine Approached between the walls between Approached college and the of the naval Venice ramshackle home of second-division football team, second-division it doorway, an ensemble incorporating to monument the Cappello,Vittore captain- general of the Republic in the 1460s, him showing Saint Helena. kneeling before limit, greatly enlarged was Austrianduring the administration, partly to furnish accommodation and grounds for the exercise troops.occupying Its sole Mon Sant rather more extensive grounds extensive more rather belongingthe to dormant when zone except the art and architecture (in the in progress shindigs are and even- summer of odd- respectively). years numbered built countries have Various permanent for their pavilions Biennale representatives, forming that a unique colony of the some by work features great of modern names and design,architecture such as Aalto,Alvar GerritThomas and Carlo Scarpa.Rietveld Sant Eastern Castello PLACES Inexpensive tomoderate. same nameinthestreet. with theestablishment ofthe Nottobeconfused prosecco. and peachjuice,Aperol vodka, sgropino they mixthe houseaperitif: where of thesmalldiningroom, weekend.There be well advisedtobookatthe with adevoted clientele winter. Tues and/or Thurs in closes Mon, andthekitchenoften closed Wed, t Calle SeccoMarina738 Dai Tosi the year. advance isessentialformostof Bookingseveral days in printed). rather thangive you anything simply recite what going in(oftenthewaiters will the window carefully before checkthemenu in is anissue, 130 Contents 4.2.12 Opentill11.30pm, 041.523.7102. Lively pizzeria-trattoria adeliciousminglingof , ’ s abarinfront ’ s onoffer – Places you ’ d appeal. outsidetables addtothe front; there and fair, prices cooking good, the menu issimple, swing.The when theBiennaleisinfull pntl ingt closed Tues. Open tillmidnight, male. customer whoisn you don if Great foran inexpensive glass, the no-nonsenseSignoraLeli. years formore by thanforty run whichhasbeen traditional bar, Slightly rough andutterly ClosedSun. Antonin3607. Salizzada S. Alla Rampa Bars andsnacks Calle Chinotto24 Osteria Sant residents ofSant restaurant isthepreserve ofthe utterly genuine neighbourhood ’ s a bar serving s abarserving ’ t mindbeingtheonly ’ Elena t ’ 041.520.8419. Elena except ’ t a Venetian cicheti This at the PLACES The Canal Grande s ’ ’ 131 Ca – such – Oro. ( ’ Casa s now the s now ’ d ’ will cross s casino. ’ gondola bridges , which slaloms from Oro ’ d ’ building stretches along the stretches building Cannaregio canal, the from but can see how Canal Grande you the side wing wraps itself round the campanile of the neighbouring church interlocking is common in Venice, use has maximum where space. to be made of available Ca The most beguiling palace on the canal is the Ca Palazzo Vendramin-Calergi the unfinished Not far beyond stands of San Marcuola church Vendramin-Calergi. the Palazzo Codussi at the Mauro Begun by the fifteenth end of very century, the first this was on classical palace built Venetian Renaissance lines.The palazzo is an abbreviation of is an abbreviation Incorporatinghouse.) fragments most famous was resident Wagner, who died here Richard in February 1883. It Venice home of s high street, and divides s high street, ’ the churches and other public the churches vaporetto – but a number of but a number – the – Places Ponte 60; the like the others being at the train station, being at the train the others , which – – , successor of an provide additional crossing points at regular points at crossing additional provide s four bridges, the ’

The section that follows is principally a selection of The section that follows he Canal Grande is Venice he Canal Grande Contents Palazzo Labia (completed Palazzo c.1750).The main facade of the Palazzo Labia churches, The boat passes two the Scalzi and San Geremia, the firstbefore of the major palaces comes into view

If you come into Venice by Venice come into If you train, first of the sight your the Canal Grande will be from of its left bank, upper stretch landing with the vaporetto the in front.To stages directly of the Canal right newest is the Grande The Left Bank Ponte Calatrava Ponte station. connects to the bus lies the Downstream degli Scalzi degli iron structure put up by the structure put up by iron Austrians in 1858 one at the Accademia,one at the it was in the early 1930s to replaced steamboats the new give sufficient clearance. covered in the appropriate geographical sections. in the appropriate covered buildings that you can see from the vaporetto are the vaporetto see from buildings that you can metres. metres. Canal Grande palaces surprisingly shallow, at no point much exceeding five at surprisingly shallow, width between thirty and seventy metres; it is, however, and seventy metres; width between thirty Grande is almost four kilometres long and varies in kilometres Grande is almost four traghetti Canal length. The along its entire one bank to the other intervals, as does the #1 intervals, as does the

T The Canal Grande Canal The link the bus and train stations, four and train stations, link the bus to the east. With the completion of the new bridge to of the new bridge With the completion to the east. the city in half, with three sestieri to the west and three sestieri to the half, with three the city in the waterway Rialto and Accademia Rialto and 132

Pal. Labia S. Marcuola A P R GN IU A L P S. Marcuola I D I S S. Geremia Riva di E D I C A 1, 82, N A ST Biasio 1 Traghetto VA LI L À E R Train TT E I T SIO Station IO BIA R A DI RIV Scalzi CANAL GRANDE Fondaco PO Ferrovia 1 IO dei Turchi G N E SC TE D Rio del MegioM A L PLACES LZI EG S. Simeone E LI D . Profeta C Rio di LO O Rio di San Zan Degola CC PI I AM San Giacomo ON G ER IM B dell' Orio S C. N Rio Marin Ferrovia A S I 41, 42, 51, D A S. Simeone T RUGA VECCHIA 52, 82, N N E Piccolo M A D N Rio U F Rio M

arin o F ri U ’O N e ll D o d A R Rio di S. Giac om M io E di N S. R T G i A i o The Canal Grande o va a D n t d E n s i E i i I van l g S T e O

L E N A

T g I

N o

I s t i n o

R i o

i Rio delle Sacchere Rio S

del Frari l Frari o

Rio della Frescada R R Pal. Pisani

io d io e M d l i Moretta S

a .

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o R n io Novo

Traghetto Rio Foscari Pal. Balbi S. Tomà 1, 82, N

Ca' Fóscari Pal. Contarini Palazzi d. Figure Mocenigo Pal. Giustinian S. Samuele 82, N

tto Pal. Grassi Ca' Rezzonico e h g ra T

CAMPO S. ETTO Ca' Rio de S. Barnaba RAGH Ca' del BARNABA DEL T Rezzonico 1 CALLE Duca Rio del ABA Rio Malpaga Pal. . BARN LUNGA S Loredan CALLE Palazzi IA Contarini GAR AVO E L’ LE D Palazzo CAL N Rio Malpaga Giustinian- e Lolin t Trovaso i Accademia m . o R 1, 82, N a l e d Rio de S io R

Rio de Ognissanti 0 200 m Accademia Pal. CAMPO S. Contarini TROVASO dal Zaffo

Contents Places 133

R io Pal. Vendramin- e Calergi la M

a d Rio di S. Andrea a le Pal. ie oa n N e Soranzo a i d lic Dep. del io e Pal. F Rio Priuli e R n Megio a ic Gussoni o

i S D PLACES S. Stae d a io Pal. 1, N R i C d Battagia io R O IG S. Stae N E Ca' Pésaro C E O Ca Tron A Ca' T M S O T d’Oro N T Palazzo A E S P

I The Canal Grande IM Sagredo D R A D TA A N IZ E Ca' d' Oro L M A A 1, N Palazzo S dettoD deiia Rioda Rio delladue Torri N Mangilli- FU Rio Pesaro Valmarana Pal. Rio Corner dei Santi Apostoli ocenigo o in della M Traghetto m o o Regina n Pescheria Ca’ da Mosto D ia s S. Giovan r I o di n s R Ri i G te a E r T Fabbriche is Rio della Pergola a C O os n B to M a I Nuove mo ia E r i S D E a d L eccarie M L . io A Fabbriche S R C di Vecchie o Ri R. d. Fontego Palazzo dei dei Tedeschi

Rio della Rio del Ponte della B Camerlenghi PONTE DI RIALTO N VI L Fondaco dei DE VA

RI Tedeschi Madonnetta O R R Rialto FE San Polo EL 1, 82, D VA Pal. Dolfin-Manin N RI Palazzi Traghetto ON Pal. Donà RB CA Bernardo S. Silvestro EL A D IV Pal. C 1 R A Rio di S. Salvador Pal. L L Loredan E Papadopoli B E Pal. M S. Salvador B Pal. Cappello Farsetti O -Layard Pal. Grimani Pal. S. Angelo 1 Pal. Contarini Rio di Ca Benzon dei Rio di S. Luca C Cavalli A L LE Pal. Corner- D E Spinelli L Santa FA Rio di S. Angelo B B R C I A L L E D E L A CAMPO V E S. ANZOLO R O L N IO S. Stefano TAR F A RU R L F E DE Z C. Z A PIAZZA La Fenice R I A SAN Palazzetto MARCO Falier CAMPO ISÈ ADA S. MO S. STEFANO C SALIZ . ZA Duca GUR S.M.

I ARZO Rio di le Ostreghe Pal. Giustinian XXII M del GA Rio di S. Mois E LAR Giglio CALL Zobenigo Pal. Corner Rio del d. Ca' S. Stetano Pal. Santissimo di Grande Pal. Contarini- é San Marco Franchetti Rio de S. Maurizio Fasan Vallaresso Pal. 1, 82, N Pisani Pal. Rio di S. Maria Barbaro Traghetto Casetta S. M. del d. Rose CANAL S. Maria d. Giglio Salute 1 Salute GRANDE 1

CAMPO AZIA

S. VIO Pal. Venier RO C. DE L’AB A

Pal. B

d. Leoni R Dogana Dario A

Rio de San Vio B . di Mare

Rio delle Torreselle C

Contents Places The Canal Grande PLACES German merchants.The German carving. used toaccentuatemuch ofits House headquarters ofthecity headquarters Fondaco dei once Tedeschi, isthe the Rialtobridge The hugebuilding justbefore The Fondacodei Tedeschi most popularhotels. itwas oneof century Venice then untilthenineteenth Albergo delLionBianco the palazzohadbecome by theendofthatcentury 1432; here was in born Verde Islands, discoverer oftheCape Mosto, da on theCanalGrande.Alvise tobeseen the oldeststructures andare thusamong building, Veneto-Byzantinecentury remnants ofathirteenth- carved panelsabove themare the Ca floorof The arches of thefirst Ca nickname andacquired its 1420s and30s, Ca the that oncestoodonthesite, palace of athirteenth-century 134 Contents THE RIALTOBRIDGE ’ ’ daMosto d ’ Oro was built inthe ”– ’ da Mostoandthe from the gilding that from thegilding –

“ The Golden andfrom , ’ s Places ’ s the mainpostoffice. andisnow sixteenth century, renovated several timessincethe d are nowcontribution intheCa The remains oftheir ofthenew fondaco.exterior commissioned topaintthe and Giorgione Titian were down;Fondaco burned In1505 the this centralsite. they were leasedabuilding on andasearly1228 the city, powerful foreign groupingin were traders themost German a ul,thiswas theonly was built, when thefirst Accademia bridge houses uponit spoiltby two rows of bridge, by Edward Gibbonas top-heavy designwas described whose named Antonio daPonte, the jobwas awarded totheaptly andeventually taken in1524, was astonebridge to construct decision you oneofthem.The Cross Carpaccio wooden structures asuccessionof superseded PonteThe famous diRialto Rialto bridge ’ Oro.The FondacoOro.The has been nteAcdma shows inthe Accademia, , ’ s Miracles ofthe Miracles True ” Until1854, . – oneof “ a fine ’ PLACES The Canal Grande , , 135 , Canal as the lived in the lived – a dog, a fox, a wolf Palazzo Mocenigo Palazzo – , palace a Gothic Palazzo Mocenigo Palazzo Rezzonico on the s sharpest turn is known: ’ ’ 72 by Massari,72 by who s wife called Margarita ’ – Palazzo Mocenigo-Nero Palazzo Palazzo Grassi Volta the palace round The vast Grassi,is the Palazzo in built 1748 supervised the completion of the Ca The Mocenigo palazzi houses that once all Four belonged to the Mocenigo family side on the by stand side del Canal Volta Grande a late sixteenth-century building; the double the Vecchio in the seventeenth remodelled century. and his Byron menagerie and a monkey palace for a Mocenigo-Nero couple of years. Much of his up with a local taken time was baker built in the eighteenth centurybuilt as house; an extension to the Nero and the Cogni, to being whose reaction to attack him was by rejected knife and then him with a table hurl herself into the Canal Grande. Places . ” simple, “ PALAZZO LOREDAN (CENTRE) AND PALAZZO FARSETTI (RIGHT) PALAZZO LOREDAN (CENTRE) AND Contents Palazzo Grimani began on the immense Work GrimaniPalazzo in 1559, to Sanmicheli,designs by was but not completed until 1575, after his death. sixteen years Ruskin, normally no fan of Renaissance architecture, made an exception for this colossal palace, it calling delicate, and sublime The Palazzo Loredan and the Loredan The Palazzo Farsetti,Palazzo side standing side at the end of the by del Carbon,Fondamenta are Veneto- restored heavily Byzantine palaces of the thirteenth former century.The the home of Elena Cornerwas Piscopia, who in 1678 graduated Padua from University, so becoming the first to hold a ever woman degree.Theuniversity two occupied by now are buildings hall. the town Palazzo Loredan and Palazzo Farsetti point at which the Canal on Grande could be crossed foot. The Canal Grande PLACES and conference centre. – hence thesparklingrenovation nineteenth century asguestsof nineteenth century older Barbaro houseinthelate who stayedluminaries inthe Sargent were amongthe Browning andJohn Singer Monet,Whistler, James, Henry seventeenth-century. the other late century, the leftisearlyfifteenth- thehouseon ; Palazzi Barbaro dell On theoppositesideofRio The PalazziBarbaro As thelargervaporetti couldn Accademia Bridge Nowadays it against the Turks in1718. tothewar effort contribution forahefty the nobilityinreturn were acceptedintotheranks of owners Itsfirst opposite bank. 136 substructure. addition ofareinforcing steel withthe became permanent one replaced in1932by awooden itwas in1854, Austrians Accademia built by the get undertheiron Ponte dell andisusedasanexhibition Contents PALAZZO GRASSI ’ Orso are thetwinned Orso – a temporary measure that atemporary ’ s owned by Fiat Places ’ – ’ t Ca prototype forthe Ca Renaissance buildings oftheHigh many Romanand Tuscan storey stoneworkrugged ofthelower built from 1545onwards.The Grande Palazzo CornerdellaCa Fasan The narrow Palazzo Contarini- Palazzo Contarini-Fasan Sansovino palaces inRenaissance Venice. residential functionofmany illustrates thedualcommercial- anincident that out ofcontrol, stock ofsugarintheatticran outa when afire littodry della Ca the siteofPalazzo Corner The palacethatusedtostandon Wings ofaDove and useditasasettingfor finished lifein expatriate James Venice. became thecentre of American the building in1885andit boughtmostof Sargent Curtis Daniel A relative ofthepainter, from family Boston. the Curtis ’ Rezzonico. – – amid-fifteenth-century adistinctive aspectof ’ The Aspern Papers The Aspern Grande was destroyed ’ s replacement was – makes ita . ’ P é saro and ’ here, The PLACES The Canal Grande 137 s saro, ’ é P ’ work – often the most – ), which runs, like the varied very little. The typical s towers and long s towers ’ saro portego , the main living area, arranged é (municipal pawnshop). (municipal ) on the ground floor, and this runs à P ’ century 1621, until then it was Turkish to the turned over traders in the city, stayed who until 1838.Thoughhere it been over-restored, the building a give arcade water-level of picture precise reasonably palace Veneto-Byzantine what a like. looked have would Palazzo Corner della Regina is the The next large building CornerPalazzo della Regina, in 1724 on the site of the built home of Caterina Cornaro, Queen of Cyprus, whom from its name.Thethe palace takes base of the Biennale archives, it formerlywas the Monte di Piet Ca the A short beyond distance of San Stae stands the church thickly ornamented Ca bristling with diamond-shaped and grotesque heads. spikes houses had to be Three for room demolished to make this palace and its construction lasted half a century finished in 1703, long after the death of the architect, Baldassare Longhena. basic plan andron rooms or storage. ’ piano nobile this generally would have been accommodation – s ’ is Places – s not ’ you find the ll usually see a cluster of large windows in the centre of ll usually see a cluster ’ – the house San “ and a above the first , although but ” San Simeone , the end of the the small rooms on this level were used as offices or, from the sixteenth – piano nobile s main waterway. ’ extravagantly decorated as suites of rooms on each side of a central hall ( andron, from front to back. The plan of these houses can be read from the outside of the palace, where you the facade, between symmetrically placed side windows. there is a sec- Frequently ond Venetian palazzi Venetian Virtually all the surviving Canal Grande palaces were built over a span of about 500 years, and in the course of that period the for relatives quarters); the or children (though sometimes it was the main living attic would have been used for servants century onwards, as libraries or living rooms. On the next floor Venetian palace has an entrance hall (the palace has an entrance Venetian right through the building, flanked by storage rooms. Above comes the mezzanine floor Contents The Fondaco dei Turchi The Fondaco dei passed the green-domed Having of church Piccolo Simeone Grande of nondescriptprocession buildings, come to the you private Turchi.A dei Fondaco the early thirteenth house from elongated campo of Arriving in Venice by road, by Venice you Arriving in come in on the right bank of the Canal Grande at Piazzale Roma, opposite the train station. Orientation is initially difficult, with canals heading off and no in various directions immediate landmark; it of Desdemona Shakespeare the model for The Right Bank round swings until the vaporetto the train station that it by that this is the becomes obvious city palace with unique wheel with unique palace tracery balconies on the as known popularly heroine did live in Venice, her in did live heroine this house is association with sentimental. purely The Canal Grande PLACES respectively. (c.1520) Scarpagnino Sansovino (c.1550) and Vecchie diRialto the water) the Rialto the it, older buildings thatfollow century.The fourteenth market here sincethe Fondamenta dellePrigioni there 1907; the the neo-Gothicfishmarket, with whichbegin markets, you reach theRialto especially engrossinguntil storey of thebuilding find themselves inthecells could Debtors exchequer. ofthe chambers Venetian theformer (c.1525), the Palazzo deiCamerlenghi is base oftheRialtobridge The largebuilding atthe Palazzo deiCamerlenghi there Beyond, Rialto markets 138 sleeping init. and diedofachill caughtby watch thework progressing building sitesothathecould he moored aboatalongsidethe to seehispalacefinishedthat reputed tohave beensokeen Nicol churches. be foundinmany Venetian whosesculpture isto Vittoria, 1580s toplansby Alessandro Baroque designexecuted inthe aproto- youngest ofthegroup, of theRiodiCa onthenearside Palazzo Balbi, city Volta constitutesoneofthe The clusterofpalacesatthe Palazzo Balbi canalside. given ofthe tothispart Contents Pescheria ’ s architectural glories.The Fabbriche Nuove di – and (setbackfrom hencethename ’ s beenafish ’ s nothing built in , Fabbriche ’ s bottom ò Balbiis ’ F ,are by ó cr,isthe scari, Places – Adjoining Ca The PalazziGiustinian for several years. undergoing majorrestoration whichhasbeen the building, Venice end withhisforced resignation. of office(34years) cametoan longterm whose extraordinarily Doge FrancescoF history, colourful figures of Venetian the homeofonemore itwas time ofitsconstruction, private housein Venice atthe Ca On theoppositebankstands Ca century fortwocentury brothers who palaces built inthemid-fifteenth apairof Palazzi Giustinian, CA ’ ’ F ’ F F ó ó Ó SCARI scari (c.1435).The largest (c.1435).The scari ’ scari s university now owns ’ F ó scari are the scari ó scari, PLACES The Canal Grande 139 s gold ball ’ a house of a house “ s full stop.The ’ s masterpiece, Santa ’ .The in built was palace ” DOGANA DI MARE the late 1480s, and the of the marbles multicoloured facade characteristic are of the family. of the Lombardo work Palazzo Dario,Palazzo by compared Henry to James cards The Dogana di Mare The Dogana of this last The focal point of the canal is stretch Longhena Maria della Salute (see p.80), Dogana after which comes the (Customs House),di Mare the Canal Grande in the wind which swivels figure on top of the Dogana most to represent is said by Fortune, though others identify it as Justice. ’ Places it was here it was – hence its , in part inspired – s home ’ s gargantuan Ca panto), had their main ’ é s great dynasties (they ’ Rezzonico ’ Contents The one domestic building of The one domestic building and the here between interest end of the canal is the miniature Palazzo Dario The Venier The Venier family, one of Venice Palazzo Venier dei Leoni Venier Palazzo doges, three produced including the commander of the Christian fleet at L A little farther comes on Longhena Ca wanted attached but self- but attached wanted houses.contained a while For Giustinian the Palazzi one of Wagner was alternative name,alternative Palazzo Nonfinito.The stump of the and the platformbuilding on which it is raised (itself an feature) and novel extravagant the by occupied are Guggenheim Collection of modern art. base just beyond the Campo base just beyond Veniers Vio. In 1759 the San their home, began rebuilding dei Venier the Palazzo but Leoni, been have which would the largest palace on the canal, further than progressed never the first storey Rezzonico. begun in It was the 1667 as a commission from Bon family, were they but to sell the still obliged unfinished palace to the Rezzonico, a family of Genoese so rich they who were bankers not just to could afford to complete the palazzo but onto the back as tack a ballroom well.Among its subsequent Browning, Pen was owners whose father Robert died here in 1889. that he wrote the second act of the second act that he wrote und Isolde Tristan a nocturnalby gondola ride. The northern islands PLACES half-hour betweenBuranoandTorcello. Punta SabbioniandtheLido.Ashuttleboatrunsevery and Burano,from where itproceeds, viaTreporti, to first atMurano-Faro before headingontoMazzorbo and evenings),calling day (hourlyearlyinthemorning every half-hourfrom FondamenteNoveformostofthe Burano andTorcello around thecity, the#42aclockwiseroute. For towards Venice; the#41followsananticlockwiseroute Fondamente Nove,circling Muranobefore headingback and #42vaporetti bothruneverytwentyminutesfrom For boat isgoingtowards theislands,notawayfrom them.) elsewhere inthecity, ofcourse island servicesstarthere or callhere. (You canhopon stop magnificent cathedralofSantaMariadell Venice A tripouttothemainislandslyingnorthof The northernislands 140 of theoriginsVenice itself,embodiedinTorcello in somanyofthecity will reveal theoriginsof glassandlaceworktouted by the iscovered through thecloisters, building in it. anyone cladtheentire front ofa but never before had courses, had longbeenusedfordamp stone Istrian resistant towater, Easytocarve yet for facades. stoneasamaterial use ofIstrian in thecityandintroducing the ofRenaissancedesign principles the advancing of Venice, revolutionized thearchitecture this building Codussiquietly Mauro Codussiin1469.With Michele inIsola of elegant whitefacade by thelandingstageto island ofSanMichelegives way wall aroundThe highbrick the San Michele Contents To islands,themain gettothenorthern The main part oftheisland, The mainpart San is cemetery – Fondamente Nove

Michele andMuranoonly San Michele designedby , of Venice San Places ’ s shops,andgiveyouaglimpse , the #LN(LagunaNord) leaves Murano (or Nuove),asmostofthe winter 7.30am summer7.30am (daily: SAN MICHELECEMETERY , – butmakesure thatthe Burano , thecircular #41 ’ and – vaporetto Assunta. 4pm), Torcello Murano, – 6pm; ’ s – Burano PLACES The northern islands

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M Murano Murano its fame owes nowadays Murano its to entirely industry with crowded are fondamente the fruitshops selling of the furnaces, some of it fine, of most and some of it it repulsive pretentious.You laughably little in the showrooms to equal showrooms little in the on display work the remarkable in the Murano glass museum, place second that takes and even to the island church. stop (the first Michele) after San onto the Fondamenta step you Vetrai, the core traditionally dei of the glass industry (as the the name suggests) and now principal tourist trap.Towards the farthe Dominican end is A

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L degli Angeli A Michele N A C 41, 42 Serenella Fondamente Nove s grave is marked by a by is marked s grave ’ 41, 42 N Cimitero MURANO Contents established here by a by here established which decree Napoleonic furtherforbade burials in the of the city.centre is at a Space premium, and most of the lie here Venice of Catholic dead conditions for just in cramped or so,ten years when their and removed dug up bones are to an ossuary, and the vacated plot is recycled.The city Protestants, being less numerous, permitted in their are to stay sector indefinitely. In this Protestant section (no. Ezra XV) Pound on it. simple slab with his name and Adjoining is the Greek (no. area Russian Orthodox XIV), including the gravestones and Stravinsky Vera of Igor and elaborate tomb of the more Serge Diaghilev. The northern islands PLACES aaz isiin formerly Palazzo Giustinian, Giovanni Bellini. lies withitspairofpaintingsby itsmaininterest a fire in1474, in 1363but largelyrebuilt after Begun Republic fellin1797). with seventeen whenthe ontheisland(compared service one ofonlytwo churches stillin (daily 9am church of 142 Contents SANTI MARIAEDONATO The seventeenth-century iza ssilvr uhi ead oee,inrecent yearsthere However, muchindemand. isstillvery Piazza, onMuranoandroundthe by themulticolouredfloralchandelierssoldinshowrooms typified ThetraditionalstyleofMuranoglass, being passedoffasauthenticstones. were asmany was issuedforbiddingthemanufactureoffalse gemsoutofglass, adecree that makingcoloured crystal becamesoproficientat seventeenth century andintheearly monopolized theEuropeanmanufactureofmirrors foralongtime, Theywereproducingspectacles bythestartoffourteenthcentury, of theircraft. such craftsmenofglassashere visitorjudgedthat Afifteenth-century hunted down. andafewwereeven glass-makerwholeftMuranowasproclaimedany atraitor, forcenturiespriortothat gainedsomefreedomofmovement, seventeenth century AlthoughMuraneseworkershadbythe secrets ofthetradelockeduponisland. andthenceforthallpossiblestepsweretakentokeepthe central Venice in 1291, Venice Because oftheriskfire, Venetian glass and even Venini has been bought out, by the Royal Copenhagen company. Copenhagen bytheRoyal and even Venini hasbeenbought out, remain in Venetian hands Few ofMurano ornaments from Asia andeasternEurope. Murano-styletablewareand ofcheap due to aninundation in theglassindustry, San Pietro Martire – noon &3 – – 6pm), the long-established firm of Salviati isFrench-owned, thelong-establishedfirm ofSalviati Places ” , and the Muranese were masters of every aspect andtheMuraneseweremastersofevery , ’ s glassfurnacesweremovedtoMuranofrom can evenexerts afascination ifyou themuseum onwards, century Murano glassfrom thefifteenth andexamplesof century pieces datingbacktothefirst card Wed; Nov Vetro now housesthe home oftheBishop Torcello, ’ t read theItalianlabels. – – March 10am e “ sep11.Featuring seep.171). in thewholeworldthereareno (April 4 orMuseidelleIsole ’ s 250glasscompanies – Oct 10am Museo del – ’ s beenturmoil p;closed 4pm; – 5pm; PLACES The northern islands 143 4pm; closed 5pm; – – Scuola dei Merletti s 4 or Musei delle Isole ’ Oct 10am see p.171), on Piazza – e March 10am March – – Lacemaking is still taught at Lacemaking is still taught THE LACE MUSEUM exacting work,exacting highly both and mind-bendingly skilled repetitive, an enormous taking toll on the eyesight. Each in one specializes woman particular stitch, are as there and stitches in all,seven each piece to woman is passed from duringwoman its construction. centre table An average-size about a month of work. requires Burano (April Tues; Nov card card Galuppi.ThisBaldassare scuola than a is simply a school rather confraternity-cum-guild (unlike Venice, all other craftspeople in had no guild to the lacemakers them,represent because perhaps exclusively was the workforce opened in female) and it was 1872, indigenous when the crafting of lace had declined so – look Murine – Places s lives noon & ’ – Santi Maria , and the shops (daily 8am lace , the method of placing s best examples of ’ 7pm). founded in the It was s on show in room 1 on the in room s on show The other Murano church, Contents ’ – are given over to the production over given are and sale of Burano After the peeling plaster and of the other stonework eroded lagoon settlements, the small, brightly painted houses of Burano come as something of a surprise. that Local tradition says the colours each once enabled fisherman to identify his house out at sea,from the now but colours used simply for are pleasant effect.While of many the men of Burano still depend on the lagoon for their livelihoods, the women lining the narrow street leading street lining the narrow the into the village from the full of stop are vaporetto stuff. and Making Burano-point lace is extremely Venetian-point Perhaps the finest single item is single item the finest Perhaps marriage Barovier blue the dark cup, 1470; around from dating it first floor, along with some enamelled splendid Renaissance glass.Aand painted separate display, captions in with some English, the history of covers techniques Murano glass out for the extraordinary in Canna together rods coloured different to form an image in cross- section. for visiting and the main reason the island today, is e Donato 4 in century rebuilt but seventh the twelfth, of the and is one lagoon the ornate apse being rear particularly fine.The glories of the interior its mosaic floor are and the (dated 1141 in the nave) arresting mosaic twelfth-century of the Madonna in the apse. Veneto-Byzantine architecture architecture Veneto-Byzantine The northern islands PLACES Murano 3 Martino Martino stands thechurch of Burano shops. lacethatfillsthe and imported thing from the machine-made problems distinguishingthereal a quicktouryou aftereven the sixteenthcentury; with specimensdatingbackto the attached produced here are displayed in Pieces younger generation. skillstoa transmit thenecessary to FrancescaMemo, woman, thatitwasfar lefttoone 144 Palude dei Laghi dei Palude

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l o Treporti PLACES The northern islands 145 s Sun: ’ ’ – Santa , perhaps one of “ (Tues 5.30pm; – ASSUNTA ’ , can you verdict a ” s other church, ’ chair of Attila chair of (same hours as cathedral; Oct 10.30am – Torcello outside sits the In the square SANTA MARIA DELL April test for yourself, as the been now campanile has reinforced, cleaned and reopened, after thirtyyears service as a pigeon-coop. Fosca free), in the eleventh built was centuriesand twelfth for the body of the martyred St Fosca, Libya from Torcello to brought now 1011 and some time before under the altar.Theresting bare interior exudes a calmness visitors of which no number can quite destroy. curious Torcello of once the throne judges in its earliest days. Behind it, the well-laid-out Torcello Museo di from the campanile as the campanile from the most notable scenes in this scenes in notable the most wide world – 3; e 4, or e Places view (daily: 6pm; 4.30pm; – – s feet, is a much ’ Assunta ’ s canals were now were s canals ’ Oct 10.30am March 10am March – – Cattedrale di Santa 6 with museum and 6 with museum A Veneto-Byzantine A Veneto-Byzantine building Contents Torcello April silting up,silting malariarife, was and was Venice of the ascendancy imminent. By the end of the was Torcello fifteenth century only largely deserted and today about thirty in people remain residence. 1008, from dating substantially the Maria dell Nov joint ticket with museum with museum joint ticket e a from campanile) has evolved founded in the seventh church century, the crypt of which and front foundations in the circular survived.Theof the facade have interiordominant tones of the pink brick,come from gold- based mosaics and the watery its of green-grey marble columns and panelling, which cast a cool light on the together richly patterned eleventh- century mosaic floor. In the apse a stunning twelfth-century mosaic of the Madonna and a above from Child looks down Apostles,frieze of the dating the middle of the previous from century. the window, Below at the Madonna restored image of St Heliodorus, restored Altinum.the first Bishop of It comparison an interesting makes with the gold-plated face mask of in front on his sarcophagus the high altar, another seventh- century vestige. work Mosaic the ninth and eleventh from centuries adorns the chapel to the right of the high altar, while the other end of the cathedral is the tumultuous dominated by Apotheosis of mosaic of the Christ and the Last Judgement created in the twelfth century, in the twelfth created in the nineteenth. renovated but Ruskin described the The northern islands PLACES history ofthearea. history mash ofpiecesrelating tothe mosaic fragmentsandamish- jewellery, beaten goldfigures, includes thirteenth-century or jointticket withcathedral) postwar Venetian glassdesigners, Stocks work by themajor Opendaily. Fondamenta Vetrai 82. d Domus Vetri foreign artists with Venetian glassmanufacture, pioneered a new approach to Opendaily. Manin 68. Fondamenta Vetrai 109a&Fondamenta Berengo Fine Arts w Fondamenta28, Vetrai Barovier & Toso Murano glass Shops: Nov 146 blowers. by Muranoglass- vitrified traditional designs. Predominantly century. its roots backtothefourteenth whichcantrace firm family-run Contents MURANO GLASS www.barovier.com – March 10am ’ designs being ’ Arte . This isa Berengo has – 4.30pm; Places e 2 priced fish dishespredominate.priced and moderately Seafood risotto the topchoiceson Burano. arts. from otherfieldsoftheapplied oftenemploys designers Venini more adventurous producers, and Barovier & Toso factories. work from the Moretti Venini, Burano lace Shops: w Fondamenta47, Vetrai Venini Riva Longa48. Penso Davide Fondamenta Manin1c. Murano Collezioni t Burano Via Galuppi373, Ai Pescatori Restaurants Piazza BaldassareGaluppi. Scuola deiMerletti made intheshop. can watch glasspiecesbeing to traditionalMuranostyles.You anewspecializes ingiving slant which designed by thefirm, here isboth manufactured and Moretti and CarloMoretti. Ercole suchasBarbini, artists handmade material. isthefinest on theotherhand, outside Italy.The Scuola air stallsismachine-made that cheaperstuff most ofthefar that Bewarned into makingit. andlabourthatgo the hours that degree but nottoa here isexpensive, www.venini.com 4.3.5.ClosedWed. 041.730.650. ’ s soldfrom Burano ’ s disproportionate to The jewellery sold . One ofthe Outlet for The lace ’ s open- One of ’ s lace, PLACES The northern islands 147 In the Locanda Cipriani The pleasantest 12.50, excluding drinks. e 041.739.662. Closed Mon. etuato oclo just Torcello, on restaurant the bridge its before it takes name from, leading on the canal the boat to the cathedral. from terraceDelightful shaded the garden.overlooking Prices moderate,are at the unlike much-hyped near the cathedral. weekends. for group Open evenings only. bookings Campo S. 3, Stefano Murano t Busa alla Torre Busa alla opinion of many, this place the best fish on Murano. serves menu lunch the two-course Try for t ’ Places t worth ’ Plain but dependably Plain but walk from the busy Via the busy from walk 041.730.401. Lunch daily ’ t AL GATTO NERO Contents Galuppi, opposite the Pescheria. Max, the owner, is a keen fisherman, and what he doesn know about the marine know isn Venice delicacies of knowing. fine local trattoria, just a few minutes except Wed,except at booking essential Al Ponte del Diavolo Borgognoni 10/11, Fondamenta Torcello Fondamenta Giudecca 88,Fondamenta Burano. Closed Mon. Al Gatto Nero Open till 11pm,Open like though island it places on the other periods.earlier at slack closes The southern islands PLACES voyage outthere from thecityisapleasure initself. Chioggia mayhaveseenmore gloriousdays,butthe The farther-flung settlementsalongtheroute to of you couldundertakeanexpeditiontothefishingtown industry beganwiththedevelopmentof of thecity while thealleywaysofLaGuideccaare fullofreminders Venice La Giudecca interesting: thePalladianchurches of counterpart.Thenearer islandsarenorthern themore Pellestrina enclosed bythelongislandsof The sectionofthelagoontosouthcity, The southernislands 148 noon Lazzaro degliArmeni beaches eachyear. AvisittotheArmenianisland, destination, yetstilldrawsthousandsofpeopletoits has nowbeeneclipsedbythecityitselfasaholiday the Palazzo Ducaleacross the Oct 9am May (daily: Maggiore Palladio San GiorgioMaggiore Contents 0250m Sacca Fisola Sacca LA GIUDECCA &SANGIORGIOMAGGIORE Chioggia – – April 2.30 April

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Contents A GIACOMO Of all the colours,more none is ungo

L QUARTIERE

The Last Supper most famous of all his works, and of Manna The Fall painted as a pair in 1592 proper for churches than white; for churches proper since the purity of colour, as of the life, is particularly gratifying to God, by outstanding pictures Tintoretto “

S. Agnese Z E

a The southern islands PLACES “ mischief ( tokeep themoutof district werecentury shoved intothis whointheninth families the two disruptive noble with is mostlikely tooriginate but their removal totheGhetto, until century the latethirteenth ( name mightrefer totheJews modern from itsshape.The anameclearlyderived Longa, Giudecca was known asSpina the chainofisletsnow calledLa In theearliestrecords of Venice La Giudecca you aquicklookaround. times thegatekeeper mightallow atother held attheFondazione; Exhibitionsare regularly Palladio. byand amagnificentrefectory two beautifulcloisters featuring architectural wonders ofthecity, craft schoolhere anaval collegeanda institutes, research arts various which runs 150 etr n;andthematting western end; were atthe onceneighbours andadistillery asphalt factory an boats usedtobemadehere; suburb:Venice the city Giudei judged Contents INTERIOR OFILREDENTORE ) wholived here from ’ ” nutilinner s industrial .Giudeccagrew into ). giudicati ’ s public transport – means isoneofthe Places Redentore Franciscan church of isthe hostel (onceagranary), boats beyond thetug- monument, LaGiudecca site. albeitforadifferent by Palladio, worked outsomeyears earlier built in1582 Sun 10am Zitelle to thetiny church ofthe isclose Maggiore San Giorgio than pullingitdown. putting somethinguprather about even thatthey andthechancesare bulldozers, site occupiedby cranesand Venice are you aslikely toseea of Innootherpart recent years. beingfundedin social facilities developments andancillary with aspateofhousing respect thingsare looking up, but inthis residential areas, Giudecca are now purely Swathes ofLa sufficiency. Venice day islandisapotentemblem of semi-dereliction ofthepresent- the However, here until1950. kept going nineteenth century, inthe originating industry, The first vaporettoThe first stopafter ’ mooring andtheyouth mooring ’ s lossofeconomicself- (open forMassonly, – on,whichwas noon), (Mon – 86 from plans ’ s main – Sat ’ ll be Il PLACES The southern islands s ’ at s ’ re 151 ’ ll ’ a very “ walk from the from walk ’ public beaches . the Before ” s now being restored for use as being restored s now The green-domed Santa ’ have to content yourself with the to content yourself have less groomed the northern and southern ends of the island.The northern beach minutes is twenty stop at Piazzale Santa vaporetto Maria Elisabetta; the southern one, right golf the municipal by course, journeya bus necessitates the Piazzale,from and is consequently less of a crush. Vittoria might be Maria della staying at one of the flashy hotels at one of the flashy staying that stand shoulder to shoulder along the seafront, or are one of their to rent prepared beach huts for the day, you no longer as chic as it was, there on its beaches now less room before.than ever Unless you The Lido unspoilt strip an The Lido was of land until the latter part of the nineteenth century. used Byron its to gallop his horses across day,fields every and as late as 1869 Henry could James describe the island as natural place century out, was however, it had become the smartest bathing resort in Italy, and although it it a convention centre and hotel. centre a convention – – 2 or s ’ e Places s ’ 5pm; Mulino – see p.171), – .With the development s deliverance, and every 5pm, Sun 1 ’ 76,Venice suffered an suffered 76,Venice – – ttere.This is the most á At the far end of the island MULINO STUCKY Contents 10am Chorus Pass Chorus Pass outbreak of plague which killed outbreak nearly fifty thousand people designed by Palladio in 1577. Palladio designed by In 1575 virtually the city of a third population.The was Redentore for the Senate in thanks by built Venice year until the downfall of the of until the downfall year and his the doge Republic senators to attended a Mass here their declaration of renew gratitude, to the church walking bridge a pontoon the from over Z sophisticated of Palladio church projects,church an but of its subtleties is appreciation difficult, prevents as a rope the nave. visitors going beyond The best paintings in the in the sacristy, are church which is usually closed on Saturday and Sunday. looms the colossal Stucky of the industrial sector at Marghera (on the mainland) I, War after World the Stucky into a nose dive, flour mill went and in 1954 it closed. Since has been a then its future contentious issue perennially The southern islands PLACES Elisabetta From Gran Viale Santa Maria ofthelagoon. understanding dose ofsaltairand an but itwillgive you acurative land bus from PiazzaleRoma, business thansimplytaking the isamoreChioggia protracted across thelagoonto The trip From theLidotoChioggia Nicol nearby Via Cipro theSan (facing Nicol of Franciscan monastery view from thechurch and the water admire itfrom adistanceacross andyou have to much interest, diSant Fortezza vicinity ofthePiazzaleonly Inthe thoroughly abjectthing. it close quarters sign)but at the hugeCampari of theisland(unlessyou count monument onthelagoonside the mostconspicuousLido 152 into atmospheric decay.into atmospheric 1386 andinplaceshasfallen e Sun2.30pm; month exceptOct, (guided tourinEnglishevery Venice you totheentrance bring Contents LIDO LANDINGSTAGE ) whichwas foundedin 8), ò ò ’ vaporetto stop)will s .A stroll alongthe .A Jewish cemetery – – themain street from you getagood ’ s revealed asa ’ Andrea San Places is of eaac,whichin the Metamauco, of theancientsettlement called isthesuccessor the expedition, Malamocco bus service. asthisisanextra-urban valid, ACTV passes(seep.169) are not and than theisland-hoproute, about twenty minutes quicker but it Piazzale Roma, to Duomo orSottomarina Venice isby bus ( to Chioggia. every #11bus goesalltheway asnot Elisabetta, Santa Maria timetable carefully atGran Viale Lido tothe hop from SanZaccaria includingthecostof ticket, costs and takes abouteightyminutes, entire journey Chioggia.The for the25-minute crossing to switch from thebus toasteamer andthenyou covered by road, tipofPellestrina are southern the10kmto Pellestrina; the five-minute hopto for where itdrives ontoaferry #11 bus goesdown to Alberoni, front the Lidolandingstagetosea The fishingvillageof The quickest way backto – e – but besure tocheckthe themore or lesshourly o n-a through- 5 foraone-way about5kminto , e 4) from the ’ s only PLACES The southern islands s ’ – 153 s ’ re all re ’ , the The , , and so The , , Chioggia , chapel to the the fish market No foreign 6. e cathedral Sottomarina San Lazzaro degli Armeni San Lazzaro degli to Visitors received daily from 3.20pm 5pm; the connecting #20 motoscafo leaves at San Zaccaria 3.10pm and returns to take you back at the end of the tour; community has a longer community than the Venice pedigree in Armenians, is whose presence most conspicuously signalled by degli the island of San Lazzaro Armeni, the from identifiable the onion-shaped city by summit of its campanile.Tours one of the by conducted are priests in the who currently live Beheading of Two Martyrs Two Beheading of on. the cathedral run Buses from to Torture of the Razors Torture but invisible,but you that a drawback in as a blessing might regard depicted of the subjects view of Boiling Oil Torture The close to the close to Venice to answer downmarket best in the whole lagoon. the whole best in Inside the contains half a left of the chancel eighteenth-centurydozen good paintings, one including Tiepolo;attributed to they Lido. s ’ Places s busiest ’ s scaled- ’ , the colossal can be seen – is the second largest s most appealing ’ , which is strung out Murazzi the church – s one remarkable structure s one remarkable ’ Fishing and the production of the production Fishing and Chioggia SAN LAZZARO DEGLI ARMENI Contents eighth centuryeighth the capital was lagoon confederation.of the In was old town 1107 the a tidal wave; by rebuilt destroyed Malamocco here, of get the best view you but to Chioggia. it as the boat crosses This is the without getting off the bus. without getting the mainstays are fine pillow-lace of life in the village of Pellestrina of the ten along nearly a third of the next island. kilometres There building building of the Campanile replica down of San Marco walls of Istrianwalls boulders, 4km base, long and 14m thick at the constructed at the which were di Chioggia to sides of the Porto the battering from Venice protect of the sea. fishing ports.The boat sets you Vigo, at the at the Piazzetta down head of the Corso del Popolo, the principal in Chioggia street settlement in the lagoon after Venice, and one of Italy grid-iron layout, which runs to the cathedral,down passing The southern islands PLACES Venice are abargain. of theoldmapsandprints shop: you something atthemonastery you couldbuy present, Armenian with thepreparation ofan studied whilelendingahand chamber inwhichByron whichsitsinthe son, infant Canova and Giambattista Tiepolo, ceiling panelby theyoung a paintings by artists, Armenian of agallery ivory carvings, Chinese intricate extraordinarily antique metalwork, Elsewhere you complex. rotunda ofthe intheheart occupying amodern the visit, century goingbacktothefifth former manuscripts andbooks manuscripts collection ofprecious Delhi.The monastery Delhi.The that onceseatedthegovernor of other isateakandivory throne whileatthe which itwas found, laid outnearthesarcophagus in mummified Egyptianbodyis the old atoneendof museum: arranged places like awhimsically isin themonastery occupants, encyclopedic interests ofits Reflectingthe the very least. at expect himtobetrilingual, island 154 Contents ’ re lookingforanunusual ’ s ’ monastery library s figure ofNapoleon – isanotherhighlightof – nls itoay If English dictionary. o xml,a forexample, , andyou can , ’ s – ’ the ll see Places ’ s ’ s you expensive than t oteqiie thisisit. its mostexquisite, Venetian refinement at culinary you want toexperience if Still, excluded. drink a head, menu willcostyou around a placewhere thecheapestset It the equalofitsancestor. Harry the kitchenofthisoffshoot the onlythingsonofferhere sweets aren Despite thename, t Giudecca 773, Biagio Fondamenta S. Harry itcan a view, For amealwith onfish. as ever, withtheemphasis, classier fare, Serves humble pizzasaswell as Giudecca Fondamenta Sant Do Mori Bookingessential. cards. island overlookingand theterrace the recommended foritsfishdishes range restaurant ishighly thismid- three generations, for Run by thesamefamily t Giudecca Calle delleErbe270, Altanella Restaurants 4.2.84 Closed Tues. 041.522.4844. ClosedMon& Tues. 041.522.7780. ’ re nonethelesstalkingabout ’ ’ s Bar eta aa.Nocredit s centralcanal. ’ s Dolci t 4.2.42 Closed Sun. 041.522.5452. is ratedby many as ’ t bebettered. ’ Eufemia 588, Harry ’ s Bar ,but ’ s less e 55 – ’ t Accommodation Accommodation Contents Accommodation

Accommodation Contents 157

Hotels ACCOMMODATION

Venice has around two hundred the city.The smartest of these hotels, ranging from spartan one- places, usually operating under star joints that can charge in the title locanda, are in effect excess of e120 per night, such is small family-run guesthouses, the level of demand, to five-star offering good-value rooms, establishments costing e900 and attentive service, and often a very upwards; what follows is a run- attractive location. Locande usually down on the best choices in all offer a standard of accommoda- San Marco: North of the Piazza categories.Though there are some tion equivalent to three- or even four-star hotels (24-hour room typical anomalies, the star system service is just about the only is a broadly reliable indicator of facility they don’t provide), but quality,but always bear in mind often at considerably lower cost. that you pay through the nose for You can find information for your proximity to the Piazza. both locande and hotels on the Breakfast is nearly always tourist office’s website included in the hotel room rate; wwww.turismovenezia.it and if it isn’t, you should anticipate a also on wwww.veniceby.com. charge of at least e7 for a jug of coffee and a croissant. Except where specified otherwise, prices San Marco: North of given in the following listings are for rooms in high season. the Piazza Recent changes in the local Ī regulations governing the provi- SEE MAP ON P65 sion of tourist accommodation Ai Do Mori Calle Larga S. Marzo, S. have led to a proliferation of bed Marco 658 t041.520.4817, wwww and breakfast establishments in .hotelaidomori.com. Very friendly, and

Booking a room High season in Venice covers most of the year – officially it runs from March 15 to November 15 and then from December 21 to January 6, but many places don’t recognize the existence of a low season any more. If you intend to stay in the city at any time during the above periods (or Carnevale), it’s wise to book your place at least three months in advance, and for June, July and August it’s virtually obligatory to reserve half a year ahead. Should you bowl into town unannounced in high summer, the booking offices (see below) may be able to dig out something in Mestre, on the mainland. During the winter it may well be possible to find a reduced-rate room, but it might involve a bit of legwork, as some hotels, especially the less expensive ones, close down from November to February or March (reopening briefly for Christmas and New Year in many cases). Booking offices are located at the train station (daily: summer 8am–9pm; winter 8am–7pm); on the Tronchetto (9am–8pm); in the multistorey car park at Piazzale Roma (9am–9pm); at Marco Polo airport (summer 9am–7pm; winter noon–7pm); and at the autostrada’s Venice exit (8am–8pm). They only deal with hotels (not hostels) and take a deposit that’s deductible from your first night’s bill.

Contents Accommodation 158 situated a few paces off the Piazza, this is a strewn with 1930s and 40s objects. The top recommendation for budget travellers. pristinely white bedrooms have modern The top-floor room has a private terrace wrought-iron furniture. Doubles from around looking over the roofs of the Basilica and e160. the Torre dell’Orologio, and is one of the Fiorita Campiello Nuovo, S. Marco 3457 most attractive (and, of course, expensive) t041.523.4754, wwww.locandafiorita one-star rooms in the city. Non smoking. .com. Welcoming one-star with just ten Doubles e90–135. rooms, so it’s crucial to book well in Casa Petrarca Calle delle Schiavini, S. advance. Doubles from around e110. t f Marco 4386 & 041.520.0430. A very Flora Calle Larga XXII Marzo, S. Marco ACCOMMODATION hospitable one-star, one of the cheapest 2283/a t041.520.5844, wwww hotels within a stone’s throw of the Piazza – .hotelflora.it. This large three-star is very but make sure you phone first, as it only close to the Piazza and has a delightful has seven rooms, including a tiny single. No inner garden. Rooms are beautifully deco- e credit cards. Doubles from around 120. rated with period pieces, though some are a Noemi Calle dei Fabbri, S. Marco 909 little cramped. Doubles from around e230. t w 041.523.8144, www.hotelnoemi Gritti Palace S. Maria del Giglio, S. .com. Noemi is right in the thick of the Marco 2467 t041.794.611, wwww action, just a minute’s walk north of the .starwood.com/grittipalace. One of Piazza, but its prices are lower than most Venice’s most prestigious addresses, reek- rival one-stars. Decor is eighteenth-century ing of old-regime opulence. No doubles Venetian and half its 16 rooms have pri- under e380 per night, and the plushest vate bathrooms. Doubles from around suite will set you back well over a thousand e 100. euros. Orseolo Corte Zorzi S. Marco 1083, Kette Piscina S. Moisè, S. Marco 2053 t041.520.4827, wwww.locandaorseolo San Marco: West of the Piazza West San Marco: t041.520.7766, f041.522.8964, .com. Friendly and recently opened family- wwww.hotelkette.com. A four-star run locanda abutting the Orseolo canal, favourite with the upper-bracket tour com- 50m north of the Piazza. Rooms are spa- panies, mainly on account of its quiet loca- cious and light; breakfasts substantial. tion, in an alleyway parallel to Calle Larga Entrance is through an iron gate in Campo XXII Marzo. In season there’s nothing under e S. Gallo. Doubles from around 200. e230, but out of season prices are much more reasonable. San Marco: West of Monaco and Grand Canal Calle Vallaresso, S. Marco 1325 the Piazza t041.520.0211, wwww.summithotels .com. Very stylish four-star hotel owned by Ī SEE MAP ON P.71 the Benetton family – try to get one of the Ala Campo S. Maria del Giglio, S. Marco ground-floor rooms, which look over to the 2494 t041.520.8333, wwww.hotelala.it. Salute. Room rates can be as low as e200 The three-star family-run Ala has spacious out of season, but expect to pay at least rooms (choose between modern and tradi- double that in summer. tional Venetian) and a perfect location, on a Novecento Calle del Dose, S. Marco square that opens out onto the mouth of the 2683 t041.241.3765, wwww Canal Grande. Often has good special .locandanovecento.it. Boutique-style offers. Doubles from around e240. three-star hotel with nine individually deco- Art Deco Calle delle Botteghe, Campo S. rated doubles with bathrooms. Styling is Stefano 2966 t041.277.0558, ethnic eclectic (floor cushions and wwww.locandaartdeco.com. This new Moroccan lamps), and there’s a small court- three-star locanda has a seventeenth- yard for breakfast. Doubles from around century palazzo setting, but the interior is e180.

Contents Accommodation ACCOMMODATION Dorsoduro • San Polo and Santa Croce . 80. & . Alla e 159 t 80. 150. . . Just 11 e e à s quickly Quiet, well ’ . This quiet, com- In an excellent, . 041.522.5817, . . A longstanding 115. 170. f e e & www www.algallo.com 041.522.2083, 041.241.1233, www.hotelfalier.com has modern, smart w w t t t favourite; the supermarket w ’ Frari, Polo 2606 S. Calle del Traghetto, Calle del 110. à Calle della Frescada, e Fondamenta Gherardini, Rezzonico. rooms Well-equipped ’ Calle del Forno, Croce 88 S. Messner scari hotel has some doubles for around hotel has some Salizzada S. Pantalon,Salizzada S. Croce 130 S. Rio Terr ó F ’ 041.523.1341, 041.523.6761, 041.710.882, www.locandacafoscari.com www.hotelmessner.it www.hotelpausania.it www.locanda-sanbarnaba.com SEE MAP ON P.90 some have eighteenth-century frescoes, Salute booked out. Doubles from around Falier t rooms (7 without bathroom), so it f Dorsoduro 3888 w Ī Al Gallo t Small family-run three-star, the not far from Frari, with rooms (with and without bath) style.Venetian furnished in the Doubles from around Alex .hotelalexinvenice.com budget travellers in front is useful for picnics and breakfasts. No credit cards. Doubles from around Ca decorated and relaxed one-star, tucked away in a micro-alley near S. Tom San Polo and Santa Croce quiet location close to the Salute vaporetto close to the quiet location stop, the w half the price of those in the smaller but half the price of two-star main building. more appealing Doubles from around rooms and is run by friendly staff.rooms and is run The one- the corner past the star annexe round – bath. and one has an enormous family-size Doubles from around Exceptionally pleasant three-star hotel right Exceptionally pleasant three-star by the Ca Pausania Dorsoduro 3942 w has an fortable and friendly three-star excellent location very close to San Barnaba church, just five minutes from the Accademia. Doubles from around San Barnaba Dorsoduro 2785 w t ’ The Pisani see ’ 170. Accommodation Once the Ca e . 180. Fondamenta e a decision 041.523.0188, Friendly two- – t www . www.lacalcina Foscarini, w à w unusual in Venice. unusual in No Foscarini, Dorsoduro – dei Catacumeni, à 041.522.7443, 041.523.0058, This very glamorous 29- à . s upmarket establishments. t t . From the more expensive ’ Rio Terr ttere ai Gesuati,ttere Dorsoduro á Z Rio Ter Rio Terr s character. Its restaurant ( 041.240.1411,

’ 041.520.6466, Charismatic three-star hotel in the t . t ) is good too. Doubles from around

Pisani ’ www.pensioneaccademia.it www.aglialboretti.com Contents SEE MAP ON P.76 SEE MAP 300. 150. Stones of Venice .com house where Ruskin wrote much of 780 La Calcina makes heavy use of dark wood and chrome, a refreshing break from the Renaissance and Rococo tones that tend to Venice prevail in Highly recommended. Doubles from around e Bollani, 1058 Dorsoduro Accademia Villa Maravege Accademia Villa Ī Dorsoduro w Dorsoduro 216 Messner indicative of the desire to maintain the building p.88 e rooms you can gaze across to the Redentore, a church that gave him apoplexy. rooms are no-smoking and All have parquet floors TV or minibar in the rooms star well situated right next to the Accademia. All rooms have air-conditioning TV.and murky room 19 and you can Avoid go wrong. Doubles from around Russian embassy, this three-star seventeenth-century villa has a devoted following, of its garden,not least on account which occupies a promontory at the convergence of two canals, with a view of a small section of the Canal Grande. be sure of a room, To months get your booking in at least three ahead. Doubles from around Agli Alboretti w Ca 979a .capisanihotel.it room four-star, just a few metres from the Accademia, created quite a stir when it opened in 2000, chiefly because of its high- class retro look. its cue from the Taking style of the 1930s and 40s, the Dorsoduro 884 Cannaregio ACCOMMODATION sturgeon ( longpedigree has avery .com t Sturion around Doublesfrom and agrandentrancehall. anicecourtyardgarden helpfulstaff, very Canal GrandetowardstheCa star withsomeroomslookingacrossthe w S. Croce2232 Rosa, San Cassiano-Ca oe) thelight-filled hotel), Scalzi stillliveinabuildingadjoiningthe (themonksattachedtothe monastery .com t Abbazia Ī Cannaregio Rialto the at Cross True the of Miracle around Doublesfrom Roomsarelightandairy. side. picturesquecanal- onavery one-star hotel, .hotelsalieri.com Croce 160 Locanda Salieri from around Doubles close toSanRoccoandtheFrari. very sprucelyrenovatedlittletwo-star, Neat, 160 itr Doublesfromaround winter. Ratesdropconsiderablyin and hasnolift. hotel isatthetopofthreeflightsstairs asthe difficulties shouldlookelsewhere, butvisitorswithmobility close totheRialto, ful siteafewyardsfromtheCanalGrande, e Doubles fromaround No creditcards. the roomsinannexe allhaveshowers. but rooms donothaveaprivate bathroom, Aroundhalfof the27 and benignprices. Large one-starwithfriendlymanagement 233/a Adua Doublesfrom around ful gardentoo. There quasi-monastic austerity. three-star amenitieswithoutlosingitsairof Bridge SEE MAPONP.104 70. Contents www.sancassiano.it 041.523.6243, 041.717.333, . . it iSan,Cannaregio Lista diSpagna, This immaculate11-roomthree-star Occupying aformerCarmelite t i h caei) It (in the Accademia). e e al e tro,S. Polo679 Calle delSturion, 041.716.184, 200. 80. al rui Cannaregio 66 Calle Priuli, sturion t e 041.710.035, 180. ) appearsinCarpaccio w . odmnaMnto S. Fondamenta Minotto, w ’ www.abbaziahotel Exceptionally friendly Favretto www.locandasturion Abbazia t . f 041.524.1768, Beautiful three- – 041.244.0162. thesignof ’ s onawonder- w e ’ provides d Calle della www 220. ’ s adelight- ’ r.Has Oro. Accommodation e 150. ’ s etrdplzona at psoi Ten restored palazzo nearSanti Apostoli. Newly establishedlocanda inalovingly t Novo around Doublesfrom in theloungeafternoon. Freeteaandcoffeeserved disabled visitors. including roomsfor well-equipped rooms, and76 freeInternetaccess, pool table, quietcourtyard, Non-smokingfloor, tions. been runbythesamefamilyforgenera- personaltouch withavery bridge, four-star hotelnotfarfromtheRialto w Cannaregio 4587 Giorgione e Doublesfromaround Kosher breakfast. Two rooms haveasmallbalcony. beams. includingwoodenfloorsandold features, Well-equipped a/croomshavebeautiful room locandaintheheartofGhetto. w Cannaregio 2892 Del Ghetto d .com Casa Martini from around Doubles the cornerhasairconditioning. Theannexeround with asharedbathroom. and5singlesforaslittle rooms, Has somecheaperroomswithsharedbath- helpful ownerswhospeakexcellentEnglish. withimmensely Apostoli), close toCampoS. star inaprimelocation(intinyalleyway .hotelbernardi.com t guests andkitchenfor fast terraceattheback, withbreak- pleasantly furnisheda/crooms, Nine hotel neartheCannaregiocanal. Cannaregio 1314 t Al Saor Bernardi Semenzato Doubles fromaround canals will takeyouonatriproundtheback thefamily stay formorethanfournights, Ifyou two ofthemwithcookingfacilities. w ’ r.Fivespaciousair-conditioned rooms, Oro. 180. www.hotelgiorgione.com www.veneziahotels.com www.casamartini.it 041.241.1496, 041.522.7257, & f . al e rt,Cannaregio 4529 Calle deiPreti, ’ redyBB locatedneartheCa Friendly B&B, – ue Doublesfromaround use. 041.296.0654, e agreatwaytoseethecity. al ot,Cannaregio 3904/a Calle Zotti, 270. Calle Larga deiProverbi, Campo delGhettoNovo, e Rio Terr 70. w w t t t . www.locandanovo.it www 041.522.5810, 041.275.9292, e Very well-pricedtwo- Very 041.717.512, . à Calle dell w 90. S. Leonardo, Delightful small www.alsaor . . Friendly nine- High-class ’ Oca 4366 e – e ithas 130. 35 ’ . ACCOMMODATION Central Castello – 161 735, but Sizeable e This mag- . 90. . e the ones in the www www.hotelpa- 041.523.3572, – Corte Leon w w A cosy one-star t 130. 150. Friendly and charm- . e e 041.522.3507, da Mosto. Only 8 rooms, ’ t Campo S. Maria Formosa, Campo S. This three-star is a great . provided you book a room in provided you book Riva degli Schiavoni,Riva Castello – 150. Riva degli Schiavoni, degli Riva Castello 041.522.6480, 041.522.4324, 041.522.4267. e t t Fondamenta del Vin,Fondamenta del Castello 4656 f s most lively and spacious squares. ’ & www.leonbianco.it www.scandinaviahotel.com 900 mark. Danieli 4196 of the 13 near San Zaccaria where most Vin or a court- rooms look over the Rio del yard, private though only 4 of them have a bathroom. ceiling Room 8 is special for its fresco. Doubles from around the old part of the building,the old part of the not the modern extension. Cheapest doubles are you move towards the with a lagoon view e Doni T but 3 of them overlook the Canal Grande and 4 of the others are spacious and taste- fully furnished in eighteenth-century style one even has a huge fresco in the mode of Tiepolo.Giambattista A gem of a place. Doubles from around Locanda Leon Bianco Bianco, Castello 5629 .luxurycollection.com/danieli affords just about nificent Gothic palazzo hotel experience on the the most sybaritic continent w not far ing three-star in a superb location from the Rialto bridge, beside tucked away the decaying Ca Paganelli 4182 ganelli.com place to stay, as long as you get one of the rooms on the lagoon side annexe look onto S. Zaccaria, which is a nice enough view, but not really in the same league, though of course they are cheaper. Doubles from around Decorated mainly in eighteenth-century style (ie lots of Murano glass and floral motifs), it has an unusually wide variety of accommodation, ranging from large suites to rooms with private but not en-suite bathroom. Off-peak prices are considerably lower than high-season. Doubles from around Scandinavia Castello 5240 w and comfortable three-star on one of the city Well- 140. Accommodation e 80. 170. Friendly . Clean and e e the best even . Friendly locanda – . Very fine,Very newly 160. 120. . not big, but well- e e – 041.523.5852. www.hotelcaneva 041.718.976, f w 041.528.6127, t 041.277.0393, 041.241.1294, Calle della Chiesa, t t T Campo S. Giovanni Novo, Giovanni Campo S. Calle della Misericordia, Calle della 100. 180. Campo S. Lio,Campo S. Castello 5659 Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo, Filippo Campo SS. Corte Rubbi, Castello 5515

e e A well-appointed and peaceful one- .

041.522.8118, 041.522.9912, www.villarosahotel.com www.hotelalleon.com www.locandaquerini.com www.casaverardo.it Contents SEE MAP ON P.115 fairly large one-star; the rooms here have fairly large one-star; bathrooms a/c and private have a small balcony. large ter- There is a for breakfast.race at the back Doubles from around w kept and friendly second-floor two-star; 6 of kept and friendly second-floor two-star; the 25 rooms have a/c. Book well in advance for the room with a roof terrace. Doubles from around t Caneva .com star tucked away behind the church of S. Maria della Fava, close to Campo S. Bartolomeo. of the 23 rooms About half have a/c, and some have private bathrooms. Doubles from around Castello 4270 equipped. Doubles from around Canada t Casa Querini Castello 4388 Ī Al Leon Central Castello w w very close to the Piazza, with 9 pleasantly furnished a/c rooms Villa Rosa Villa Cannaregio 389 Cannaregio large, rooms, well-furnished a/c. some with from around Doubles small locanda occupying parts of two houses in a quiet courtyard near the Piazza. Eleven smallish but nicely furnished a/c rooms. Doubles from around Casa Verardo Castello 4765 w refurbished three-star hotel just a couple of minutes from San Marco and Campo S. Maria Formosa. very well-equipped Twenty rooms with a breakfast terrace downstairs, a sun lounge at the top and another terrace attached to one of the rooms. Doubles from around Eastern Castello • Apartments ACCOMMODATION ugtoto,aslongyoudon budget option, thisone-starisadecent tourist rat-run, e Castello 3541 Casa Linger Ī Eastern Castello 162 oryr.Four-star comfortand courtyard. withalovely A convertedGothicpalace, t Castello4110 Schiavoni, Gabrielli Sandwirth from around Doubles Nosingles. with andwithoutbath. Good-sizedrooms steepstaircase. of avery the climbtofrontdoor listed below are recommended. two ing accommodation.The self-cater- specializes inshort-let tion ifyou gotoa company that place neartheFondamenteNuovetoa rangingfromaone-bed ments in Venice, has aselectionofcoupledozenapart- Italian Breaks you but intheirbrochures,apartments companies have afew Venetian Many packageholiday city. inthecentre ofthe ment right yourself a two-bedroom apart- three-star hotelyou couldbook cramped double room ina ofaweek ina for theprice catering rooms in Venice makes The very highcostofhotel Apartments w SEE MAPONP.124 Contents [email protected]. 041.523.1580, www.italianbreaks.com ’ ll get a far betterselec- ll getafar e an attractive option Salizzada S. Antonin, 80. t t 041.528.5920, w 020/8660 0082, www.hotelgabrielli.it Riva degli – . it This company ’ Well offthe s atthetop self- Danieli ’ Accommodation t mind - – . er,making years, pack haveraisedtheirtariffsmoreinrecent buttherestof the averagetwo-star, Itwasonceatadpricierthan waterfront. side ofatranquilsquarejustoffthemain occupyingmuchofone (in Venetian terms), palazzoisamid-budgetgem teenth-century w Castello 3608 La Residenza around start at for halfthepriceof style viewsacrosstheBacinodiSanMarco Doubles fromaround spacious (rareatthisprice)andelegant. choice.The recentlyrefurbishedroomsare plans andfullrentaldetails. ground room, photographs ofvirtuallyevery showing thelocationofeachapartment, withdetailedmaps website, an exemplary Italso has friendly backupin Venice itself. andtheagencyprovidesvery tained, The propertiesareimmaculatelymain- Venetian Apartments Canal Grande. four-bedroom apartmentwithviewsofthe that willsetyoubackaround sumptuous palazziontheCanalGrande 4-bedroom apartmentstoextraordinarily at around rangingfromstudios apartments inthecity, operation thatoffersmorethanahundred but Venice isattheheartofan as Venice, FlorenceandSienaaswell tion inRome, Apartments managesholidayaccommoda- Venetian way theleaderinfield, w www.venicelaresidenza.com www.venice-rentals.com e e 440 inhighseason. 5 nlwsao,goingupto 250 inlowseason, e 0 e ek through1-to 800 perweek, La Residenza La t Campo Bandiera eMoro, 041.528.5315, e Danieli 140. t 020/8878 1130, a top . e Doubles . By along 10,000. . This four- ACCOMMODATION Hostels . 163 The Women- . s run with ’ 9am & map on p.104 – ; 041.523.8211, S. Maria dei Servi, Maria dei S. but remember to t 041.715.733, s essential to book in – ’ Fondamenta del t map on p.148 Fondamenta delle 15.50. e 17.50 per bed, breakfast includ- 21 per person in smaller rooms. e e 8pm; 12.30pm curfew. Dorm bed s HI hostel occupies a superb location – ’ 10.30pm; no pre-booking. Dorm bed 041.523.5689; 041.522.2157; map on p.148. www.santafosca.com 18, 8.50. 15. – w Cannaregio 2372, Cannaregio in an atmospheric for- Student-run hostel mer Servitequiet part of convent in a Cannaregio, double with dorm beds and rooms, all with shared bathrooms. Check- in 5 Ostello Santa Fosca e looking over to San Marco, but it a certain briskness. Registration opens at winter. 1.30pm in summer and 4pm in Curfew at midnight, chucking-out time 9.30am. Gets so busy in July and August that written reservations must beApril. made by Breakfast and sheets included in the price add the expense of the boat over to Giudecca (the nearest stop is Zitelle). No kitchen, but full (and excellent) meals for e Zitelle, Giudecca 86 f city They take bookings one week ahead only, They take bookings one week ahead and only by phone; it summer. Ostello Venezia 3 e ed; HI card necessary, but you can join on the spot for Suore Canossiane Ponte Piccolo, Giudecca 428 t only hostel run by nuns, near the Palanca vaporetto stop. Open 6.30 4 ; – 1pm A 29.50, – . dur- e 14.40. – Accommodation www.cil- e w 21 for a e 106. map on p.90 Welcoming but Welcoming e S. Maria Formosa, S. . 041.528.6797, Calle delle Muneghe, S. Installed in a wonderful Calle Campazzo, Polo S. 041.520.4888, t 74 for a double room with . t e 85, doubles 54, with 20 percent reduction for s summer vacation s summer vacation ’ 041.721.103; e map on p.71 e t ; 8pm. Prices range from – www.diaconiavaldese.org/venezia Contents Marco 2976 Marco Domus Ciliota iota.it Venice has a large HI hostel and has Venice religious hostels runa few by foundations, generally which are open to tourists during the university expensive mixed hostel-style accommodation, close to Campo S. Stefano. Open mid- June to mid-Sept. Evening meal Hostels Singles student house in winter, open to travellers from mid-June to Sept. Most rooms are free; no double with running water; showers breakfast; 11.30pm curfew. Single double Domus Civica 3082 Foresteria Valdese Castello 5170 ISIC card-holders. w ing term as double time they student accommodation. palazzo at the end of Calle Lunga S. Maria Formosa, this is principally a hostel for grown-ups, with occasional school groups. Five large dorms, and four rooms for 2 people. It also has a couple of self-catering flats sleeping 4 and 5 people. Reservations by phone only; dorm beds cannot be booked in advance. Registration 9am & 6 map on p.115 dorm bed to own bathroom (2 nights minimum). 164

Contents Accommodation Essentials Essentials Contents Essentials

Essentials Contents 167 Arrival Millions of visitors pour into Venice each of e80 to San Marco, for up to six people.

year, most of them funnelled through Ordinary car-taxis are ranked outside the ESSENTIALS Venice’s small Marco Polo airport, on the arrivals hall, and cost about e30 to outskirts of Venice itself, or through Piazzale Roma. Treviso, 30km inland. Arriving by train and Treviso airport is used chiefly by char- coach is painless – but driving into Venice ter companies, some of which provide a is unmitigated hell in summer. free bus link from the airport into Venice. Ryanair’s twice-daily flights use Treviso By air too, and are met by an ATVO bus service Arrival e Most scheduled flights and some charters to Venice; the fare is 4.40 single and arrive at Marco Polo, around 7km north of the journey takes 1hr 10min. Otherwise, take the #6 bus from right outside the Venice, on the edge of the lagoon. Hourly • arrivals building into Treviso (20min), from Alilaguna water-buses call at Murano, the Information Lido, the Arsenale and San Marco (e10; where there are very frequent bus and journey time 1hr to San Marco), or you train connections to Venice. Tickets are could take one of the two road-going bus best bought before you get onto the bus, services to the terminal at Piazzale Roma: from the bar across the road; if you buy the ATVO (Azienda Trasporti Veneto Orien- them from the driver they cost almost tale) coach, which departs every half-hour twice as much. and takes around twenty minutes (e3), or Land buses and taxis depart from the ACTV (Azienda del Consorzio Trasporti immediately outside the arrivals hall; a Veneziano) bus #5, which is equally fre- free shuttle bus takes you to the Alilaguna quent, usually takes a few minutes longer, boats and water taxis. but costs just e1. The ticket office for all buses is in the arrivals hall; in addition to By road and rail single tickets, you can also get ACTV pases Arriving by train, coach or bus, you sim- here (see p.169) – a wise investment. Note ply get off at the end of the line. The that ACTV passes are only valid on the Piazzale Roma bus station and Santa ACTV bus into Venice, not the Alilaguna Lucia train station (don’t get off at Venezia service nor on the ATVO bus, and that the Mestre, which is the last stop on the main- office will sell you a ticket for the ATVO land) are just five minutes’ walk from each rather than the ACTV bus unless you make other at the top of the Canal Grande. The clear your preference for il cinque (#5). left-luggage office at the end of platform The most luxurious means of getting 14 at the train station is open from 6am to into the city is to take a water-taxi. The midnight and charges e3 per item for the drivers tout for business in and around the first twelve hours, then e2 for each suc- arrivals hall, and will charge in the region ceeding twelve hours.

Information The main tourist office – known as the operate at Calle dell’Ascensione 71/f, in Venice Pavilion – occupies the Palazzina the corner of the Piazza’s arcades (daily del Santi, on the west side of the Giar- 9am–3.30pm; T041.520.8740), the dinetti Reali, within a minute of the Piazza train station (daily 8am–6.30pm; (daily 10am–6pm; T041.529.8711, T041.529.8727), in the airport arrivals wwww.turismovenezia.it); smaller offices area (Mon–Sat 9.30am–7.30pm;

Contents Essentials City transport ESSENTIALS h hl eeo butthestaffarerarely the whole Veneto, the city dell 3.30 sad.Inmanycases thespeediestway islands. andtheouter ing pointsontheperiphery connect- water-buses skirtthecitycentre, the #1andthe#82, Apart fromservices City transport 6 (June Elisabetta on theLidoatGran Viale S.M. 9.30am park atPiazzaleRoma(daily t 168 Contents 4.4.87,atthemultistoreycar 041.541.5887), Rocco); and ACTV/VeLa andoffices. agencies SanPolo (neartheScuoladiSan CalledelCastelforte3101, per laGioventù, nearCampodellaLana; Associazione Italiana Alberghi SantaCroce659, Storia, SanMarco; Agenzia Arte e CorteContarina1529, Politiche Giovanili, Servizio thetrainstation; at Agenzia Transalpino, placesissueit: only thefollowing onitbut information Thetouristofficeshave minute. make themostofevery leastaweekandaimto forat andisworthbuyingifyou’reintown a year, ealdi efe htcmswt h ad Thecardcosts comeswiththecard. detailed inaleafletthat allofwhichare plusreductionsonsometransportservices, and exhibitions, museums cinemas, restaurants, someshops, which entitlesyoutodiscountsat listed above. oftheoffices need topresentwhenyouturnupcollectyourticketfromany t t minimum of48hoursinadvanceon youcanorderthecarda Alternatively, San Giulianoand Tronchetto carparks. orthe the ASM officesat ACTV/Hello Venezia RamodeiFuseri1810, officeat the the andPiazzaleRoma, VeLa thetrainstation ticketofficesat the airport, into yourtrip. (s and alsogivesfreeaccesstoallthemuseumscoveredbyMuseumPass 3-day bac n h urn tmai alr) The Ebraico andtheQueriniStampaliagallery). andafewsmalldiscountsonadmissioncharges(egtotheMuseo AmaV toilets, 7-day Active sightseersshouldconsiderinvestingina The Venice andRollingVenice cards h ne-0.The the under-30s. withadiscountfor threeorsevendays, two formsandisvalidforeitherone, ’ Ascension officeissupposedtobe – ee p.171 03.4.44fo bod You willbegivenacodenumberwhichyou 00.39.041.2424 fromabroad. or 899.909.090 withinItaly(it’s afreenumber), fyur gdbten1 n 9 youareeligiblefora between14and29, If you’reaged You can 6pm; ’ – – s mainoutletforinformationon Sept daily9.30am 6.30pm; e e 47/ 51/ T ), and thus represents a very gooddealifyou’regoingtopackalot andthusrepresentsavery ), buy 4.2.71.The Calle 041.526.5721). e e 35; 7-day 9 ie niie cest l CVpbi rnpr andstaffed 49) givesunlimitedaccesstoall ACTV publictransport eieCrsfo h antuitofc,the officeat Alilaguna Venice Cardsfromthemaintouristoffice, t 041.529.8746) and blue e card (1-day – 68/ 12.30pm & Essentials e 61) accordsthesamebenefitsasbluecard w e www.venicecard.com 14, as helpfulthoseinthe Venice Pavilion. (you cancross thewholecityinan hour), tuous butdistancesare extremelyshort between majorsights are sometimestor- of gettingaroundis receptions oftheposherhotels. andfromthe from themaintouristoffice, events andvaporettotimetables special date informationonexhibitions, up-to- gives mer andmonthlyinwinter, venezia.it Ospite di Venezia di Ospite e The English 9 withdiscount;3-day orange Venice Card t ,producedfortnightlyinsum- ), 00.39.041.4747 or card (1-day – Rolling Venice Italian whichcomesin , or bycalling e .8 isvalidfor 2.58, ( w on foot www.unospitedi- e e magazine 28/ 29/ e e card, – Routes . 18; 22; it ’ s free Un ESSENTIALS City transport ). (24hr) (72hr) 169 ticket you see p.168 with a time- one-day one-day three-day three-day non-validated validated validated 22),on all be used which can 10.50) and a 10.50) ll use most often. It starts at ’ e e Elena, then goes over to the Lido. The ’ If you buy one of these unrestricted If you buy one arrive. a ACTV produces ticket ( #1 runs every 20min between 5 and 6.30am, every 10min between 6.30am and 9.45pm, and every 20min between 9.45 and 11.45pm. For the night service, see #N. ACTV services within Venice (including Venice ACTV services within from the airport).ACTV land buses For unrestricted travel,seven days of you ( Card Venice have to buy a ticket ( must validate it before embarking, by at the inserting it into one of the machines or on board entrance to the vaporetto stop painted the bus (the machines are from that orange); the ticket is valid moment, to validate it just and you need once. Piazzale Roma, calls at every stop on the Canal Grande except San Samuele, works its way along the San Marco waterfront to Sant #82 This service is the quickest means of getting from the train or bus station down the Canal Grande to San Marco, as it makes fewer stops than the #1. Its clockwise route takes it from San Zaccaria to San Giorgio #1 The slowest of the water-buses, and the one you Water-bus services Water-bus of the most What follows is a run-through useful services. Be warned that so many services call at San Marco, San Zaccaria, Rialto and the train station that the bus stops at these points are spread out over a long stretch of waterfront, so you might have to walk past several stops before finding the one you need. Services to San Marco will call either at plain San Marco Vallaresso. or at the adjacent San Marco As a further refinement, the San Zaccaria stop, close to the Basilica as which is as stop,Vallaresso the San Marco is sometimes treated as the third San Marco stop. travel tickets at the train station or travel tickets it will in all likelihood be Piazzale Roma automatically stamp; the same goes for ordinary tickets. When using a ll ’ Essentials midnight; , which are 6pm, Sat – – at Piazzale – as soon as you t as great. The 5 ticket is valid , from shops ’ e motoscafi 3.50 for a single journey tabacchi 35 spot-fine on top of the e Fri 7.30am ve got your general bear- ve got – , which are the lumbering ’ e travel card travel 1.80. The 8.50 and are valid for twelve 8pm) and in Ramo dei Fuseri, e e – are available from most landing ll find that navigation is not as navigation ll find that 5 for any journey stopping any- 1pm). In the remoter parts of the ’ –

e 6 for two tickets, to be used before vaporetti

e Contents Unless you intend to walk all day, you Tickets almost certainly save money by buying some sort of city, you may not be able to find anywhere to buy a ticket, particularly after working hours, when the booths at the landing stages tend to close down; tickets can be bought on board at the standard price, as long as you ask the attendant as soon as you get on board; if you delay, you could be liable for a fare. 7.30am for ninety minutes of travel; other single tickets are valid for just one journey. Chil- dren under 4 travel free. stages, from close to the northwest corner of the Piazza (Mon where between Piazzale Roma and San Vallaresso,Marco other than a one-stop traghetto hop (see below), in which case the fare is hours, on the #1, and Canal Grande trips #3, #4 and #82: on these vaporetti the fare is standard fare is midnight),Nord except for the Laguna boats (to Murano,Torcello), Burano and which cost (or Roma (daily: summer 6am winter 6am displaying the ACTV sign,displaying the at the airport, from the main tourist office, and from the ACTV public offices two smaller vessels employed on routes where smaller vessels employed on routes the volume of traffic isn

workhorses used on the Canal Grande workhorses used on the Canal services (#1 and #82) and other heavily used routes, and the Water-buses basic types of water-bus: There are two the and once you and once ings you daunting as it seems at first. as it seems daunting Helpful yel- high up on streetcorners low signs posted the main indicate Venice all over central Marco,routes to San (train sta- Ferrovia tion) and Rialto. City transport ESSENTIALS oclo,Treporti andtheLido. Torcello), is aconnectinghalf-hourly #Tshuttleto Burano(fromwherethere on toMazzorbo, calling firstatMurano-Faro beforeheading (hourly earlyinthemorning andevenings), half-hour from FondamenteNove every For mostoftheday#LagunaNordruns #LN 8.30 From4.30 most oftheday. 20min for Bothrunevery Piazzale Roma. and SantaMartabetweenSanZaccaria stoppingonlyatZ Giudecca canal, andbothrunfastthroughthe clockwise, the#52 The#51runsanticlockwise, circle. than Murano)attheeasternmostendof butheads outtotheLido(rather Venice, thisroutealsocircles Similar tothe#41/42, #51/52 11.30pm. 10 every and Venice simplyshuttlesbetweenMurano service afterwhichthe 6.30am untilaround8pm, 20minfrom andbothrunevery clockwise, the#42 The #41travelsanticlockwise, northern endtoSanMicheleandMurano. withashortdetouratthe core of Venice, runningrightroundthe The circularservice, #41/42 Z Palanca), Redentoreand Giudecca(Zitelle, Maggiore, 170 train station. around 1.30amgoesnofartherthanthe andfrom 11pmto the oppositedirection, between theLidoandFondamenteNovein (which startsoperatingat6am)shuttles from7 minates; similarly, whereitter- via thetrainstationtoLido, min fromFondamentaNoveandproceeds lap ofthecity tRat,Sant at Rialto, then downtheCanalGrande(usuallycalling thetrainstation, Piazzale Roma, Tronchetto, ice see#N. Forthenightserv- San ZaccariatotheLido. Insummerthe#82isextendedfrom route. 20minforthewhole the #82runsevery before 8amandafter8.30pm;atweekends through thedayandisevenlessfrequent 20min Marco thebusrunsonlyevery for thesectionbetweenRialtoandSan but 20minuntil11pm, thenevery 8.30pm, 10minfrom6amto both directions)every the #82runsalongmostofroute(in FromMondaytoFriday at thesamestops. (Vallaresso); theanticlockwiseversioncalls Samuele and Accademia) toSanMarco Contents – 11pm the#51doesn á tr,SnBslo SaccaFisola, SanBasilio, ttere, ’ – neo SanTom Angelo, instead it departs every 20 insteaditdepartsevery – 20min untilaround – 11pm the#52 – ’ t doacomplete 6am & à San , Essentials á ttere (Mon San Marcuola–FondacodeiTurchi (Mon Santa Sofia–Rialto Mon (near Rialto, Riva delCarbon–Riva delVin (Mon San Tomà–Santo Stefano tariff liston theticketbooth. evenifit tainly applies, a traghettofarealmostcer- body ofwater, journey isashortsingle-stop tripacrossa pended. tobesus- common fortraghettiservices and nopaddedseats withnoneofthetrimmings down version, albeitastripped- a rideongondola, ferries) aretheonlycheapwayofgetting (Mon Ca’ Rezzonico–SanSamuele the lowertraghettofareof youneedonlypay immediately opposite, bank oftheCanalGrandeto orfromone over toSanGiorgioMaggiore, ifyouwanttogofromSanZaccaria ple, forexam- motoscafi operateastraghetti: are asfollows;inthe dola traghettiacrosstheCanalGrande Thegon- stand inthetraghettogondolas. (Mon Santa MariadelGiglio–Salute Costing just40cents, Traghetti Tom San SanSamuele, Grande (Accademia, Canal SanMarco(Vallaresso), Zaccaria, San running fromtheLidotoGiardini, selective fusionofthe#1and#82routes, (11.30pm This nightservice #N Z SanBasilio, SaccaFisola, Tronchetto, PiazzaleRoma, trainstation, Marcuola), every 30minbetweenmidnightand4am. every running toandfromFondamenteNove connects Venice withMuranoandBurano, Anothernightservice 20min. part every andalongtheRialtoto Tronchetto 30min, of therouteinbothdirectionsroughlyevery Itrunsalongthewhole retracing itsroute. then SanGiorgioandZaccaria, Zitelle), á nadto otee somevaporettiand In additiontothese, tr,Guec Plna Redentoreand Giudecca(Palanca, ttere, à – – – – – ilo Ca Rialto, , Sat 7am Sat 7am Sat 7.30am Sat 7.40am Sat 9am – – – .0m Sun8am 8.50pm, Sun8am 8.50pm, ’ 7pm) d – – – Sat 8am ’ r,SnSa,San SanStae, Oro, 1.30pm) 1.20pm) ’ – winter traghetti s notshownonthe it – ’ – s 2pm) e 4.30am) isa de rigueur de .0 Ifyour 1.80. months it – – 7.50pm) 7.50pm) (gondola to ’ s 171 Gondolas Taxis The gondola is the city’s biggest cliché, Venice’s water-taxis are sleek and but it’s an astonishingly graceful craft, speedy vehicles that can penetrate all but perfectly designed for negotiating the the shallowest of the city’s canals. Unfor- tortuous canals, and an hour’s slow tunately their use is confined to all but the ESSENTIALS voyage through the city can give you a owners of the deepest pockets, for they wholly new perspective on the place. To are possibly the most expensive form of hire one costs e62 per fifty minutes for taxi in western Europe: the clock starts at up to six passengers, rising to e77.45 e8.70 and goes up e1.30 every minute. between 8pm and 8am; you pay an extra All sorts of additional surcharges are e31 for every additional 25 minutes, or levied as well – e1.60 for each extra Museums and monuments e38.75 from 8pm to 8am. Further hefty person if there are more than four people surcharges will be levied should you in the party; e1.50 for each piece of lug- require the services of an on-board gage over 50cm long; e5.50 for a ride accordionist or tenor. Even though the between 10pm and 7am. There are three tariff is set by the local authorities (and ways of getting a taxi: go to one of the has stayed the same since 1997, so a rise main stands (in front of the Piazzetta and at must be imminent), it’s been known for the airport), find one in the process of dis- some gondoliers to try to extort even gorging its passengers, or call one by higher rates – if you do decide to go for a phone (T041.522.2303 or 041.723.112). ride, establish the charge before setting If you phone for one, you’ll pay a sur- off. charge of e6.

Museums and monuments In an attempt to make sure that tourists go allow one visit to each attraction, and are to see more than just the big central mon- available from any of the participating uments, the city has introduced a number museums. The Musei di Piazza San of combined tickets called Museum Cards. Marco can only be visited with a Museum The card for I Musei di Piazza San Marco, Card; at the other places you have the costing e11 (e5.50 for EU students aged option of paying an entry charge just for 15–29, EU citizens over 65 & Rolling Venice that attraction. The Internet site for all the Card holders, e3 for children aged 6–14), museums mentioned above is wwww allows you to visit the Palazzo Ducale, .museiciviciveneziani.it. Note also the Museo Correr, Museo Archeologico and the orange version of the Venice Card (see Biblioteca Marciana. The Area del p.168) covers all of the museums covered Settecento card (Museums of Eighteenth- by the Museum Pass. Century Culture) covers Ca’ Rezzonico, Fourteen churches are now part of the Casa Goldoni and the Palazzo Mocenigo, Chorus Pass scheme (wwww.chorus- and costs e8/e4.50, while I Musei delle ve.org), whereby an e8 ticket (e5 for Isole (Island Museums) covers the Museo holders of orange Venice Card) allows one del Merletto (Burano) and the Museo del visit to each of the churches over a one- Vetro (Murano), and costs e6/e4. In addi- year period. The individual entrance fee at tion to these, the Museum Pass, costing each of the participating churches is e2, e15.50/e10, covers all the museums list- and all the churches (except for the Frari) ed above. Cards are valid for three months, observe the same opening hours: Monday

Contents Essentials 172 to Saturday 10am to 5pm, Sunday 1 to San Stae, Sant’Alvise, Madonna dell’Orto, 5pm (but closed Sunday in July and San Pietro di Castello, Redentore, San August). The churches involved are: Santa Sebastiano and San Giovanni Maria del Giglio, Santo Stefano, Santa Elemosinario. The Chorus Pass is available Maria Formosa; Santa Maria dei Miracoli, at all of these churches, but the Frari the Frari (all year Mon–Sat 9am–6pm, Sun doesn’t issue the discounted version. 1–6pm), San Polo, San Giacomo dell’Orio,

ESSENTIALS Festivals and special events

As recently as just one generation ago as will the two cinemas where the films Venice was a night city, where the resi- are shown – the Palazzo del Cinemà on dents of each parish set out tables on the Lungomare G. Marconi and the neigh- street at the flimsiest excuse. Nowadays, bouring PalaGalileo. Tickets are available with the pavements overrun by outsiders, to the general public, but you have to go the social life of the Venetians is more of along and queue for them at the Pala- an indoor business – a restaurant meal or Galileo on the day before the a drink with friends might feature in most performance. Any remaining tickets are

Festivals and special events people’s diary for the week, and a conver- sold off at PalaGalileo one hour before the sational stroll is certainly a favourite screening, but nearly all shows are sold Venetian pastime, but home entertain- out well before then. ment takes up most time and energy. That said, Venice’s calendar of special events The Biennale is pretty impressive, with the Carnevale, The Venice Biennale, Europe’s most the Film Festival and the Biennale ranking glamorous international forum for con- among the continent’s hottest dates. To temporary art, was first held in 1895 as find out what’s on in the way of concerts the city’s contribution to the celebrations and films, check Un Ospite di Venezia,a for the silver wedding anniversary of King free bilingual magazine available from the Umberto I and Margherita of Savoy, and is tourist office and some of the more now held every odd-numbered year expensive hotels – it’s produced weekly in from June to November. The main site peak season, monthly in winter. is in the Giardini Pubblici, where there are Information and listings for bars, events, permanent pavilions for about forty coun- w festivals can also be found at www tries plus space for a thematic .govenice.com. international exhibition. This central part of the Biennale is supplemented by exhi- The Film Festival bitions in larger venues all over the city, The Venice Film Festival, founded in such as the salt warehouses on the Zát- 1932, is the world’s oldest and the most tere or the colossal Corderie. In addition, important in Europe after Cannes. The smaller sites throughout the city – includ- eleven-day event takes place on the Lido ing the streets and parks – host fringe every year in late August and/or early exhibitions, installations and performanc- September. Posters advertising the Festi- es, particularly in the opening weeks. val’s schedule appear weeks in advance, Some pavilions and other venues are and the tourist office will have the Festival used in non-Biennale years for an inde- programme a fair time before the event, pendent Biennale for architecture.

Contents Essentials ESSENTIALS Festivals and special events , s ’ see , the pup- 173 gondo- s race, in ’ is one of s gondoliers ’ s escape. A ’ is now open to is now s church of the ’ is a reminder of the men – is the annual trial of 31, which killed one- – s race comes next, and ’ Vogalonga third Sunday in July third first Sunday in September s plague-related festivals, marking s the big one ’ ’ ; the women Festa del Redentore Festa del Redentore ), the opening parade is a spectacu- Festa della Salute Regata Storica . lini parini specialized racing gondolas called bridge of boats is strung across the bridge of boats is strung faithful to Giudecca canal to allow the walk over to the church, and on the Satur- row out for day night hundreds of people a picnic on the water. The night ends with a grand fireworks display, after which it traditional to row to the Lido for the sun- rise. the excessive number of motorboats on of motorboats number the excessive the canals, the then it any crew in any class of rowing boat, in any class any crew and course from the covers a 32-kilometre Marco out to Burano and Bacino di San set off at 8.30am back; the competitors the bottom of the Canal and arrive at between about 11am Grande anywhere and 3pm. La Salute Named after the church of the Salute, the the plague of 1630 The Regata Storica Held on the the Festa del Redentore The day is centred on Palladio Redentore, way of which was built by thanksgiving for the city third of the population of the lagoon. strength and skill for the city and other expert rowers. It starts with a procession of richly decorated historic craft along the Canal Grande course, their crews all decked out in period dress, followed by a series of races right up the canal. Re-enacting the return of Caterina Cornaro to her native city in 1489 ( p.65 lar affair, and the races attract a sizeable (and partisan) crowd. The first race of the day is for young rowers in two-oared Venice the end of the epidemic of 1576. Cele- brated on the t ” s ’ ’ a – the (long Flori- tradi- – “ ten days (the state Essentials Vogalonga . happens in May on Bucintoro , finishing on Shrove La Sensa in your disguise: a simple black

” Sunday after Ascension Day Sunday after

’ s and pose for a while. But you don www.labiennale.com Contents all the world was in Venice to see the to Venice in all the world was an row), which is held on the same day. Established in 1974 as a protest against Carnevale, in such for which people arrive from the numbers that the causeway to be closed mainland has sometimes had too packed. because the city has been Carnevale takes place over the leading up to Lent Tuesday with a masked ball for the glit- with a masked ball Tuesday terati, for the and dancing in the Piazza plebs. During the day people don cos- to be tumes and go down to the Piazza up their photographed; parents dress seen doing kids; businessmen can be white mask, their shopping in the classic black cloak and tricorne hat. In the evening some congregate in the remoter squares, those who have spent while hundreds of euros on their costumes install themselves in the windows of outfit and a painted face is enough to transform you from a spectator into a par- ticipant. need to spend money or try to be tional barge) and sailing off to the Lido. A gondola regatta follows the ceremony, but far more spectacular is the distinctly feeble procession which ends with the mayor and a gang of other digni- taries getting into a present-day approximation of the

Vogalonga Vogalonga The feast of La Sensa and

Not much is different in today Not much is different Carnevale of the 1646 Carnevale: John Evelyn wrote “ .folly and madness . . women, the men all conditions disguising and persons of dresses,themselves in antique & extrava- & a thousand gambols. gant Musique Information on the Biennale is available at is available on the Biennale Information w latter being the day on which the doge to the sea. Venice enacted the wedding of The ritual has recently been revived the 174 The church was built in thanks for deliv- friends and relatives. It offers the only erance from the outbreak, and every chance to see the church as it was November 21 since then the Venetians designed to be seen – with its main doors have processed over a pontoon bridge open and hundreds of people milling up across the Canal Grande to give thanks and down the steps. for their good health, or to pray for sick

ESSENTIALS Directory

ACTV ENQUIRIES Piazzale Roma, daily Campitelli 3 t06.697.9121; Australian 7.30am–8pm (t041.528.7886); English- Embassy, Via Alessandria 215 language information from Hello Venezia on t041.06/852.721; New Zealand Embassy, Directory t041.2424 (7.30am–8pm daily) or Via Zara 28 t06.441.7171; Canadian wwww.hellovenzia.it. Embassy, Via G. B. de Rossi 27 t AIRPORT ENQUIRIES Marco Polo airport, 041.06/445.981. t041.260.9260, wwww.veniceairport.it. EMERGENCIES For all emergency services ring t113. Alternatively, dialling t112 puts AMERICAN EXPRESS The American you straight through to the Carabinieri Express office is at Salizzada S. Moisè, San (police), t115 goes straight to the Vigili del Marco 1471, a couple of minutes’ walk Fuoco (fire brigade) and t118 straight to west of the Piazza (Mon–Fri 9am–5.30pm, Pronto Soccorso Medico (ambulance). Sat 9am–12.30pm; t041.520.0844). Their emergency number is t800.64.046 (toll- EXCHANGE There are clusters of exchange free). bureaux (cambios) where most tourists gather – near San Marco, the Rialto and the BANKS Banks in Venice are concentrated train station. Open late every day of the on Calle Larga XXII Marzo (west of the week, they can be useful in emergencies, Piazza), and along the chain of squares and but their rates of commission and exchange alleyways between Campo S. Bartolomeo tend to be steep. The best rates are at and Campo Manin (in the north of the San American Express and the main banks. Marco sestiere). There’s not much to choose between them in terms of commis- HOSPITAL Ospedale Civile, Campo SS. sion and exchange rates, and their hours Giovanni e Paolo; emergency department are generally Mon–Fri 8.30am–1.30pm and t041.529.4516. 2.30–3.30pm. The main ones are as fol- INTERNET ACCESS Dozens of dedicated lows: Banca Commerciale Italiana, Calle Internet points have opened in the last few Larga XXII Marzo, San Marco 2188; Banca years, and you’ll also find them in numer- d’Italia, Campo S. Bartolomeo, San Marco ous cafés and shops. Most charge e3–5 4799; Banca Credito Italiano, Campo S. per half-hour, though rates usually drop the Salvador, San Marco; Banco di Roma, longer you stay online. Mercerie dell’Orologio, San Marco 191; Banco San Marco, Calle Larga XXII Marzo, LOST PROPERTY If you lose anything on San Marco 383. the train or at the station, call t041.785.238; at the airport call CONSULATES AND EMBASSIES The t041.260.6436; on the vaporetti call British consulate is in the Palazzo Querini, t041.272.2179, on the buses call t Dorsoduro 1051 041.522.7207 (by the t041.272.2838; and anywhere in the city Accademia); this office is staffed by an hon- itself call the town hall on t041.274.8225. orary consul – the closest full consulate is in Milan, at Via San Paolo 7 t02.723.001. POLICE To notify police of a theft or lost The nearest US consulate is also in Milan, passport, report to the Questura on t at Via Principe Amedeo t02.290.351. Fondamenta S. Lorenzo ( 041.528.4666); t Travellers from Ireland, Australia, New in the event of an emergency, ring 113. Zealand and Canada should contact their POST OFFICES Venice’s main post office is Rome embassies: Irish Embassy, Piazza di in the Fondaco dei Tedeschi, near the Rialto

Contents Essentials ESSENTIALS Directory s ’ 175 and re never ’ s public ’ tabacchi every sizeable – s diplomatic,the least, to say Nearly all Venice Nearly all ’ Angelo and on Campo S.Angelo and on Campo Margherita. ’ bars as well; it availing yourself. to buy a drink before TELEPHONES cards, call-boxes accept nothing but phone which can be bought from Toilets are to be found in most of the city are to be found in most of the Toilets station, Roma, at Piazzale west side on the bridge,Accademia of the main tourist by the Reali, the Giardinetti office at the west off side of the Piazza, off Campo S. Bartolomeo, S. on Campo Polo, Campo Rialto Nuovo, Campo S. Leonardo, Campo San some other shops (look for the Telecom some other shops (look for the type of Italia sticker); the less expensive by the cards can be bought from machines Nova Italia phone booths in Strada Telecom (near S. Felice), Calle S. Luca, Piazzale office Roma and adjoining the main post building near the Rialto bridge. You campo has at least one, and there are phones by every vaporetto stop. far from a pay phone ll ’ see ttere Essentials á ) has now 6.30pm). Any – Azienda multi- Ascensione ’ 6pm) and at Z The lack of public toilets The lack of public , gift as well as in some – ll need a 50cent coin, but ’ Sat 8.30am – tabacchi Sat 8.10am ) gives free access to all staffed AmaV ) gives free access to all staffed – Contents servizi ambientale Veneziana in Venice used to be a common complaint Venice in from tourists,AmaV ( but PUBLIC TOILETS shops. toilets. The main facilities are at the train see green,AmaV signs high blue and white on the walls, directing you to the nearest public toilet. You the toilets are usually staffed, can so you Card ( Venice get change; note that the p.168 installed facilities on or very near to most of the main squares, and all over the city you bridge (Mon addressed to should be poste restante Fermo Posta,Tedeschi, dei Fondaco 80100 along when col- your passport take Venezia; lecting your post. post The principal branch dell offices are in Calle 1406 (same hours). Stamps can also be bought in (Mon 176

Contents Essentials Language

Contents Language 178 The basics

What follows is a brief pronunciation guide and a run-down of essential words and phrases. For more detail, get Italian: A Rough Guide

LANGUAGE Dictionary Phrase Book, which has a huge but accessible vocabulary, a detailed menu reader and useful dialogues. Pronunciation Italian pronunciation is easy, since every word is spoken exactly as it’s written. The only difficulties you’re likely to encounter are the few consonants that are different from English: c before e or i is pronounced as in church, while ch before the same vowels is hard, as in cat.

Words and phrases Words sci or sce are pronounced as in sheet and shelter respectively.

• g is soft before e and i, as in geranium; hard when followed by h, as in garlic. gn has the ni sound of our “onion”. gl in Italian is softened to something like li in English, as in stallion. h is not aspirated, as in honour. All Italian words are stressed on the penultimate syllable unless an accent (´ or `) denotes otherwise, although written accents are often left out in practice. Note that the ending -ia or -ie counts as two

Pronunciation Pronunciation syllables, hence trattoria is stressed on the i. Words and phrases

Basic words and phrases Excuse me Permesso (in a crowd) Good morning Buon giorno I’m sorry Mi dispiace Good afternoon/ Buona sera I’m English Sono inglese evening Scottish scozzese Good night Buona notte American americano Goodbye Arrivederci Irish irlandese Yes Si Welsh gallese No No Today Oggi Please Per favore Tomorrow Domani Thank you Grázie Day after tomorrow Dopodomani (very much) (molte/mille grazie) Yesterday Ieri You’re welcome Prego Now Adesso Alright/that’s OK Va bene Later Più tardi How are you? Come stai/sta? Wait a minute! Aspetta! (informal/formal) In the morning Di mattina I’m fine Bene In the afternoon Nel pomeriggio Do you speak Parla inglese? In the evening Di sera English? Here/there Qui/La I don’t understand Non ho capito Good/bad Buono/Cattivo I don’t know Non lo so Big/small Grande/Píccolo Excuse me Mi scusi/Prego Cheap/expensive Económico/Caro

Contents Language 179

Hot/cold Caldo/Freddo Some signs Near/far Vicino/Lontano Vacant/occupied Libero/Occupato Entrance/exit Entrata/Uscita With/without Con/Senza Open/closed Aperto/Chiuso LANGUAGE More/less Più/Meno Arrivals/departures Arrivi/Partenze Enough, no more Basta Closed for Chiuso per restauro Mr . . . Signor . . . restoration Mrs . . . Signora . . . Closed for holidays Chiuso per ferie Miss . . . Signorina . . . Pull/push Tirare/Spingere (il Signor, la Signora, Do not touch Non toccare la Signorina when Danger Perícolo Words and phrases speaking about Beware Attenzione someone else) First aid Pronto soccorso Ring the bell Suonare il Numbers campanello No smoking Vietato fumare 1 uno 2 due Transport 3 tre 4 quattro Ferry Traghetto 5 cinque Bus station Autostazione 6 sei Train station Stazione ferroviaria 7 sette A ticket to . . . Un biglietto a . . . 8 otto One-way/return Solo andata/ 9 nove andata e ritorno 10 dieci What time A che ora parte? 11 undici does it leave? 12 dodici Where does it Da dove parte? 13 tredici leave from? 14 quattordici 15 quindici Accommodation 16 sedici 17 diciassette Hotel Albergo 18 diciotto Do you have Ha una cámera . . . 19 diciannove a room . . . 20 venti for one/two/three per una/due/tre 21 ventuno people person(a/e) 22 ventidue for one/two/three per una/due/tre 30 trenta nights nott(e/i) 40 quaranta for one/two per una/due 50 cinquanta weeks settiman(a/e) 60 sessanta with a double bed con un letto 70 settanta matrimoniale 80 ottanta with a shower/ con una doccia/ 90 novanta bath un bagno 100 cento How much is it? Quanto costa? 101 centuno Is breakfast È compresa la included? prima colazione? 110 centodieci Do you have Ha niente che 200 duecento anything cheaper? costa di meno? 500 cinquecento I’ll take it La prendo 1000 mille I’d like to book Vorrei prenotare 5000 cinquemila a room una cámera 10,000 diecimila I have a booking Ho una prenotazione 50,000 cinquantamila Youth hostel Ostello per la gioventù

Contents Language 180 How do I get to . . ? Come arrivo a . . ? Questions and directions What time does A che ora apre? Where? Dove? it open? (where is/are . . ?) (Dov’è/Dove sono) What time does A che ora chiude? When? Quando? it close? What? (what is it?) Cosa? (Cos’è?) How much does Quanto costa? How much/many? Quanto/Quanti? it cost ? Why? Perché? ( . . do they cost?) (Quanto cóstano?) It is/there is È/C’è What’s it called Come si chiama in LANGUAGE (is it/is there . . ?) (È/C’è ...?) in Italian? italiano? What time is it? Che ora è/ Che ore sono? Menu reader Menu reader

This glossary should allow you to decode most menus; it concludes with a summary of Venetian specialities.

Basics and snacks Riso Rice Sale Salt Aceto Vinegar Tramezzini Sandwich Aglio Garlic Uova Eggs Biscotti Biscuits Yogurt Yoghurt Burro Butter Zúcchero Sugar Caramelle Sweets Zuppa Soup Cioccolato Chocolate Focaccia Oven-baked bread- Starters (Antipasti) based snack Formaggio Cheese Antipasto misto Mixed cold meats Frittata Omelette and cheese (and a Gelato Ice cream selection of other Grissini Bread sticks things in this list) Marmellata Jam Caponata Mixed aubergine, olives, Olio Oil tomatoes and celery Olive Olives Caprese Tomato and mozzarella Pane Bread salad Pane integrale Wholemeal bread Insalata di mare Seafood salad Panino Bread roll Insalata di riso Rice salad Patatine Crisps Melanzane in Fried aubergine in Patatine fritte Chips parmigiana tomato and parmesan Pepe Pepper cheese Pizzetta Small cheese-and- Mortadella Salami-type cured tomato pizza meat

Contents Language 181 Pancetta Bacon Bolognese Meat sauce Peperonata Grilled green, red or Burro e salvia Butter and sage yellow peppers Carbonara Cream, ham and stewed in olive oil beaten egg Pomodori ripieni Stuffed tomatoes Frutta di mare Seafood LANGUAGE Prosciutto Ham Funghi Mushroom Salame Salami Matriciana Cubed pork and tomato sauce Soups Panna Cream Parmigiano Parmesan cheese Brodo Clear broth Pesto Ground basil, pine nut, Menu reader Minestrina Any light soup garlic and pecorino Minestrone Thick vegetable soup sauce Pasta e fagioli Pasta soup with beans Pomodoro Tomato sauce Pastina in brodo Pasta pieces in clear Ragù Meat sauce broth Vóngole Clam and tomato sauce Stracciatella Broth with egg Meat (carne) Pasta Agnello Lamb Cannelloni Large tubes of pasta, Bistecca Steak stuffed Coniglio Rabbit Farfalle Literally “bow”-shaped Costolette Chops pasta; the word also Cotolette Cutlets means “butterflies” Fegatini Chicken livers Fettuccine Narrow pasta ribbons Fégato Liver Gnocchi Small potato and dough Involtini Steak slices, rolled and dumplings stuffed Lasagne Lasagne Lingua Tongue Maccheroni Tubular spaghetti Maiale Pork Pasta al forno Pasta baked with Manzo Beef minced meat, eggs, Ossobuco Shin of veal tomato and cheese Pollo Chicken Penne Smaller version of Polpette Meatballs rigatoni (or balls of anything Ravioli Small packets of minced) stuffed pasta Rognoni Kidneys Rigatoni Large, grooved tubular Salsiccia Sausage pasta Saltimbocca Veal with ham Risotto Cooked rice dish, with Spezzatino Stew sauce Tacchino Turkey Spaghetti Spaghetti Trippa Tripe Spaghettini Thin spaghetti Vitello Veal Tagliatelle Pasta ribbons, another word for fettuccine Fish (pesce) and shellfish Tortellini Small rings of pasta, (crostacei) stuffed with meat or cheese Acciughe Anchovies Vermicelli Very thin spaghetti Anguilla Eel (literally “little worms”) Aragosta Lobster Baccalà Dried salted cod Pasta sauces Bronzino/ Sea-bass Branzino Aglio e olio Tossed in garlic and Calamari Squid olive oil Cape lungue Razor clams (e peperoncino) (and hot chillies) Cape sante Scallops Arrabbiata Spicy tomato sauce Caparossoli Shrimps

Contents Language 182

Coda di rospo Monkfish Desserts (dolci) Cozze Mussels Dentice Dentex (like sea bass) Amaretti Macaroons Gamberetti Shrimps Cassata Ice-cream cake with Gámberi Prawns candied fruit Granchio Crab Gelato Ice cream Merluzzo Cod Macedonia Fruit salad Orata Bream Torta Cake, tart Ostriche Oysters Zabaglione Dessert made with LANGUAGE Pescespada Swordfish eggs, sugar and Pólipo Octopus Marsala wine Ricci di mare Sea urchins Zuppa Inglese Trifle Rombo Turbot San Pietro John Dory Cheese (formaggi) Sarde Sardines Schie Shrimps Caciocavallo A type of dried, mature Seppie Cuttlefish mozzarella cheese Menu reader Sógliola Sole Fontina Northern Italian cheese Tonno Tuna used in cooking Triglie Red mullet Gorgonzola Soft blue-veined Trota Trout cheese Vóngole Clams Mozzarella Bland soft white cheese used on pizzas Vegetables (contorni) and salad Parmigiano Parmesan cheese (insalata) Pecorino Strong-tasting hard sheep’s cheese Asparagi Asparagus Provolone Hard strong cheese Basílico Basil Ricotta Soft white cheese Bróccoli Broccoli made from ewe’s Cápperi Capers milk, used in sweet or Carciofi Artichokes savoury dishes Carciofini Artichoke hearts Carotte Carrots Fruit (frutta) and nuts (noce) Cavolfiori Cauliflower Cávolo Cabbage Ananas Pineapple Ceci Chickpeas Anguria/ Watermelon Cetriolo Cucumber Coccómero Cipolla Onion Arance Oranges Fagioli Beans Banane Bananas Fagiolini Green beans Ciliegie Cherries Finocchio Fennel Fichi Figs Funghi Mushrooms Fichi d’India Prickly pears Insalata verde/ Green salad/ Frágole Strawberries insalata mista mixed salad Limone Lemon Melanzana Aubergine/eggplant Mándorle Almonds Orígano Oregano Mele Apples Patate Potatoes Melone Melon Peperoni Peppers Pere Pears Piselli Peas Pesche Peaches Pomodori Tomatoes Pignoli Pine nuts Radicchio Chicory Pistacchio Pistachio nut Spinaci Spinach Uva Grapes Zucchini Courgettes Zucca Pumpkin Drinks Acqua minerale Mineral water Aranciata Orangeade

Contents Language 183 Bicchiere Glass Pasta e fagioli Pasta and beans Birra Beer San Prosciutto The best quality Bottiglia Bottle Daniele prosciutto Caffè Coffee Risotto di mare Mixed seafood Cioccolata calda Hot chocolate risotto LANGUAGE Ghiaccio Ice Risotto di cape Risotto with clams Granita Iced coffee or fruit and shellfish drink Risotto alla Risotto with Latte Milk sbirraglia chicken, vegetables Limonata Lemonade and ham Selz Soda water Risotto alla Risotto with butter, Menu reader Spremuta Fresh fruit juice trevigiana onions and chicory Spumante Sparkling wine Sopa de peoci Mussel soup with Succo Concentrated fruit garlic and parsley juice with sugar Tè Tea Secondi (second course) Tónico Tonic water Vino Wine Anguilla alla Eel cooked with Rosso Red Veneziana lemon and tuna Bianco White Baccalà mantecato Salt cod simmered Rosato Rosé in milk Secco Dry Fegato veneziana Sliced calf’s liver Dolce Sweet cooked in olive oil Litro Litre with onion Mezzo Half Peoci salati Mussels with Quarto Quarter parsley and garlic Salute! Cheers! Risi e bisi Rice and peas, with parmesan and ham Sarde in saor Marinated sardines Seppie in nero Squid cooked in its Venetian ink Seppioline nere Baby cuttlefish specialities cooked in its ink

Antipasti (starters) e Primi (first Dolci course) Frittole alla Rum- and anise- Acciughe marinate Marinated anchovies Veneziana flavoured fritters with onions filled with pine Bigoli in salsa Spaghetti with nuts, raisins and butter, onions and candied fruit sardines Tiramisù Dessert of layered Brodetto Mixed fish soup, chocolate and often with tomatoes cream, flavoured and garlic with rum and Castraura Artichoke hearts coffee Granseola alla Crab cooked with Veneziana oil, parsley and lemon

Contents Language Useful stuff Words and phrases Good morning – Buon giorno Day after tomorrow – Good afternoon/evening – Dopodomani Buona sera Yesterday – Ieri Good night – Buona notte Now – Adesso Goodbye – Arrivederci Later – Più tardi Yes –Si Wait a minute! – Aspetta! No –No In the morning – Di mattina Please – Per favore In the afternoon – Nel Thank you (very much) – Grázie pomeriggio (molte/mille grazie) In the evening – Di sera You’re welcome – Prego Here/there – Qui/La Alright/that’s OK – Va bene Good/bad – Buono/Cattivo How are you? (informal/ Big/small – Grande/Píccolo formal) – Come stai/sta? Cheap/expensive – I’m fine – Bene Económico/Caro Do you speak English? – Parla Hot/cold – Caldo/Freddo inglese? Near/far – Vicino/Lontano I don’t understand – Non ho Vacant/occupied – capito Libero/Occupato I don’t know – Non lo so With/without – Con/Senza Excuse me – Mi scusi/Prego More/less – Più/Meno Excuse me (in a crowd) – Enough, no more – Basta Permesso Mr... – Signor . . . I’m sorry – Mi dispiace Mrs . . . – Signora . . . Today – Oggi Miss . . . – Signorina . . . Tomorrow – Domani Venetian names Venice has an array of idiosyncratic names for features of the cityscape. A canal is a rio, and an alleyway that cuts through a building is a sottoportico or sottoportego, to give its dialect version. A street in Venice is generally a calle, but a parish’s major street might be a ruga or a salizzada, a small street may be a ramo,a street alongside a body of water is a fondamenta (or a riva if it’s really big), and a street formed by filling in a canal is customarily a rio terrà (or terà). A square is usually a campo (there’s only one Piazza – San Marco), but it might be a campiello if it’s tiny, a piscina if it was formed by filling in a place where boats used to turn, or a corte if it’s more of a courtyard than a square.

Contents Useful Stuff Index and small print Index and Small Print Contents SMALL PRINT IETOSguideorRough Guideifyou DIRECTIONS copy ofthenextedition (or anyother somuch thebetter. the phonenumber, the time, theprice, remember theaddress, andifyoucan we’dliketoknow, out, feel we’vegotitwrongorleftsomething Ifyou rooms raisepricesorlowerstandards. restaurantsand hours arenotoriouslyfickle, opening change –placesget “discovered”, things However, accurate andup-to-date. the firsteditionof We’ve gonetoalotofeffortensurethat Help usupdate Printed andboundinItalybyGraphicom Iles. design byHenry Typeset inBemboandHelveticatoanoriginal NewZealand Auckland 10, 182–190 Wairau Road, Penguin Group(NZ), CanadaM4V1E4 Ontario, Toronto, 10 Alcorn Avenue, Penguin Group(Canada), Australia Victoria3134, Ringwood, POBox257, Highway, 487Maroondah Penguin Group(Australia), USA 10014, NY 375HudsonStreet, Penguin Group(USA), London WC2R 0RL 80Strand, Penguin BooksLtd, Distributed bythePenguin Group USA. NY10014, New York, 4thFloor, 345 HudsonSt, Rough GuidesLtd This 1steditionpublishedMay2004by Publishing Information Thefirst Venice DIRECTIONSispublishedbyRoughGuides. A RoughGuidetoGuides 186 Visit • • • • • • RoughGuidesnowpublish: tralasia. morethanhalfof Africa andmostof Asia and Aus- inthe country every Americas andEurope, includingalmost andalargenumberofdestinationsaroundtheglobe, from shoestringtoluxury Thesedaystheguidesofferrecommendations on businessinNew York ortrekkingin Thailand. whether rants andqualityhotelsthatindependent-mindedvisitorsonanybudgetmightexpect, informationabouthostelsandlow-budgetlistingswiththekindofdetailonrestau- “rougher” RoughGuidessoonbegansupplementingthe butnotatanyprice. wants valueformoney, Everyone criticalapproach. Rough Guides’witandinquisitivenessasmuchtheirenthusiastic, butsoonalsoacquiredamuchbroaderandolderreadershipthatrelished budget backpackers, RoughGuideshadareadymarketamonglow- that rapidlycovereddozensofdestinations. the book–withnumerousreprintsanda Thomas Cookprizeshortlisting–spawnedaseries Theimmediatesuccessof wasastudentschemethatbecamepublishingphenomenon. 1982, World MusicCDsinassociationwith World MusicNetwork Travel guidestomorethan200worldwidedestinations Reference booksontopicsasdiversethe Weather andShakespeare Music guidesrunningthegamutfromOperatoElvis Maps printedonrip-proofandwaterproofPolyart™paper phrasebooksto22majorlanguages Dictionary Contents el rdtalcnrbtos andsenda We’ll creditallcontributions, www.roughguides.com 0Srn,London WC2R 0RL. 80Strand, , eieDIRECTIONS Venice to seeourlatestpublications. Index and Small Print is 135798642 of informationoradvicecontainedintheguide. inconvenience sustainedbyanytravellerasaresult or injury, accept noresponsibilityforanyloss, mation in ensure theaccuracyandcurrencyofallinfor- The publishersandauthorshavedonetheirbestto ISBN 1-84353-353-7 the BritishLibrary A cataloguerecordforthisbookisavailablefrom 192pp includesindex for thequotationofbriefpassagesinreviews. form withoutpermissionfromthepublisherexcept No partofthisbookmaybereproducedinany May2004 © JonathanBuckley, www.roughguides.atinfopop.com others aboutyourtripat email to Orsend an NY10014. New York, son St, 345Hud- 4thFloor, orRoughGuides, 0RL, London WC2R 80Strand, RoughGuides, to: “ Pleasemarkletters: yearly newsletter. will receiveacopyofourfull-colourthrice- writes tousandisn'talreadyasubscriber who Everyone prefer) forthebestletters. eieDIRECTIONSUpdate Venice Have yourquestionsanswered andtell eieDIRECTIONS Venice [email protected] Rough Guide to Greece to Guide Rough oee,theycan however, , publishedin , andsend ” 187 Rough Guide Credits Text editor: Kate Berens Picture research: Sharon Martins, Mark Layout: Andy Hilliard Thomas Photography: Neil Setchfield Proofreader: Diane Margolis SMALL PRINT Cartography: Manish Chandra, Jai Prakash Production: Julia Bovis Mishra, Rajesh Chhibber, Ashutosh Bharti, Rajesh Design: Henry Iles Mishra, Animesh Pathak

The author Jonathan Buckley wrote the Rough Guide to published four novels: The Biography of Thomas Venice, is the co-author of Rough Guides to Lang, Xerxes, Ghost MacIndoe and Invisible. Tuscany & Umbria and Florence, and has

Acknowledgements Thanks to Charles Hebbert and Kate Hughes for updating; and to Katie Lloyd-Jones and Lucy Ratcliffe.

Photo credits All images © Rough Guides except the following: p.1 Venetian street sign © Jonathan Buckley p.37 Vision of St Augustine (oil on canvas) by p.11 Supper in the House of Levi, 1673 (oil on Vittore Carpaccio. Scuola di San Giorgio degli canvas) by Veronese Paolo Caliari (1528–88). Schiavoni, Venice Italy/Bridgeman Art Library Galleria dell’ Accademia, Venice Italy/Bridgeman p.42 Portrait of Claudio Monteverdi (1567–1643) Art Library (oil on canvas) by Domenico Fetti (1589–1624) p.17 St Mark’s Cathedral © Werner Forman © Galleria dell’ Accademia, Venice Archive Italy/Bridgeman Art Library p.20 The Redentore © Worldwide Picture p.46 The Regata Storica © Mark L. Library/Alamy Stephenson/Corbis p.23 Cleopatra’s Banquet by Giovanni Battista p.47 La Vogalonga © Todd Gipstein/Corbis Tiepolo (1696–1770). Palazzo Labia, Venice p.47 Two revellers in Carnival costume Italy/Bridgeman Art Library © Massimo Mastrorillo/Corbis p.29 The Last Supper 1594 (oil on canvas) by p.47 Festa Del Redentore © Ted Spieqel/Corbis Tintoretto Domenico Robusti (1560–1635). San p.54 The Mosaics © Angelo Hornak/Corbis Giorgio Maggiore, Venice Italy/Bridgeman Art p.56 The Sala del Maggior Consiglio © Bridgeman Library p.120 San Zaccaria – Madonna and child altar by p.32 Venetian dialect street sign © Jonathan Bellini © Mimmo Jodice/Corbice Buckley p.33 Facade of the Gesuiti Church © Paula Weidiger/Corbis

Contents Index and Small Print 188 Index

Biennale site 129 Chorus Pass 171 A Bridge of Sighs 57 churches: Burano 143–144 Angelo Raffaele 83 Basilica di San Marco 52–54 Accademia 77–79 Burano map 144 bus station 167 Carmini 84 Accademia Bridge 136 Cattedrale di Santa Maria ACTV enquiries 174 dell’Assunta (Torcello) 145 ACTV offices 169 Frari 96–98 airports 167 Gesuati 81 INDEX ambulances 174 C Gesuiti 111 American Express 174 Madonna dell’Orto 109 Ca d’Oro 110, 131 Angelo Raffaele 83 Miracoli 115 Ca’ da Mosto 134 apartments 162 Ospedaletto 118 Ca’ Fóscari 138 archeological museum 59 Pietà 121 Ca’ Pésaro 92, 137 Arsenale 127 Redentore 150 Ca’ Rezzonico 85, 139 St Mark’s 52–54 cafés & pasticcerie (by area): San Barnaba 85 on Piazza San Marco 62 San Bartolomeo 66 north of the Piazza 67 San Cassiano 92 B west of the Piazza 74 San Francesco della Vigna 126 in Central Castello 122 San Geremia 106 Bacino Orseolo 66 in Dorsoduro 86 San Giacomo dell’Orio 94 banks 174 in San Polo & Santa Croce 101 San Giacomo di Rialto 91 bars (by area): cafés & pasticcerie: San Giobbe 107 north of the Piazza 68 Causin 86 San Giorgio dei Greci 121 west of the Piazza 75 Didovich 122 San Giorgio Maggiore 148 in Cannaregio 113 Florian 62 San Giovanni Crisostomo 114 in Central Castello 123 Il Doge 86 San Giovanni Decollato 94 in Dorsoduro 88 La Boutique del Gelato 122 San Giovanni in Brágora 127 in Eastern Castello 130 Lavena 62 San Giuliano 64 in San Polo & Santa Croce 103 Marchini 67 San Lazzaro degli Armeni 153 bars: Nico 86 San Marco 52–54 Ai Do Draghi 88 Paolin 74 San Martino (Burano) 144 Al Ponte 123 Quadri 62 San Maurizio 72 Al Volto 68 Rosa Salva 68, 122 San Michele in Isola 140 Alla Rampa 130 Snack & Sweet 122 San Moisè 69 Alla Botte 68 Tonolo 101 San Nicolò (Lido) 152 Antico Dolo 103 Calle Larga XXII Marzo 69 San Nicolò da Tolentino 100 San Nicolò dei Mendicoli 83 Bácaro Jazz 68 Campanile di San Marco 57 San Pantaleone 99 Café Blue 103 Campo dei Mori 108 San Pietro di Castello 128 Café Noir 103 Campo Manin 66 San Pietro Martire (Murano) Cantina del Vino già Schiavi 88 Campo Novo 73 142 Cantina Vecia Carbonera 113 Campo San Bartolomeo 65 San Polo 96 Cip Ciap 123 Campo San Giacomo dell’Orio San Rocco 99 Corner Pub 88 94 San Salvador 64 Da Codroma 88 Campo San Luca 66 San Sebastiano 82 Devil’s Forest 68 Campo San Polo 95 San Simeone Profeta 95 Do Mori 103 Campo Santa Margherita 83 San Stae 93 Enoteca Mascareta 123 Campo Santo Stefano 72 San Trovaso 82 Iguana 113 Canal Grande 131–139 San Zaccaria 119 Il Caffè 88 Canal Grande map 132 San Zan Degolà 94 L’Olandese Volante 123 San Zanipolo 116 Margaret Du Champ 88 Cannaregio map 104 Carmini 84 San Zulian 64 Osteria ai Ormesini da Aldo Sant’Alvise 108 113 Carnevale 173 Casa Goldoni 96 Sant’Elena 129 Osteria alle Botteghe 75 Santa Fosca (Cannaregio) 110 Castello (central) map 115 Osteria da Baco 123 Santa Fosca (Torcello) 145 Paradiso Perduto 113 Castello (eastern) map 124 Santa Maria dei Miracoli 115 Torino 68 Cattedrale di Santa Maria Santa Maria del Carmelo 84 Vino Vino 75 dell’Assunta (Torcello) 145 Santa Maria del Giglio 71 Vitae 68 cemetery 140 Santa Maria del Rosario 81 Basilica di San Marco 52–54 Central Castello map 115 Santa Maria dell’Assunta Biennale 172 Chioggia 153 (Torcello) 145

Contents Index and Small Print 189 Santa Maria della Assunta Galleria Internazionale d’Arte La Calcina 159 (Cannaregio) 111 Moderna 92 La Residenza 162 Santa Maria della Fava 119 Gesuati 81 Locanda Leon Bianco 161 Santa Maria della Salute 80 Gesuiti 111 Locanda Salieri 160 Santa Maria della Visitazione Ghetto 107 Messner 159 121 Giardinetti Reali 61 Monaco and Grand Canal 158 Santa Maria di Nazaretta 105 Giardini Garibaldi 128 Noemi 158 Santa Maria Formosa 118 Novecento 158 Giardini Pubblici 128 Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari Novo 160 96–98 Giardino Papadopoli 100 Orseolo 158 INDEX Santa Maria Mater Domini 92 Giudecca 150 Paganelli 161 Santi Apostoli 110 glass-making 142 Pausania 159 Santi Giovanni e Paolo 116 Gobbo di Rialto 92 San Barnaba 159 Santi Maria e Donato gondolas 170 San Cassiano-Ca’ Favretto (Murano) 143 Guggenheim Collection 79 160 Santo Stefano 72 Scandinavia 161 Scalzi 105 Sturion 160 Tolentini 100 Villa Rosa 161 Zitelle 150 H Clock Tower 58 Colleoni monument 117 hospital 174 consulates 174 hostels: I Correr Museum 59 Domus Ciliota 163 Domus Civica 163 information offices 167 Foresteria Valdese 163 Internet access 174 Ostello Santa Fosca 163 Italian words and phrases D Ostello Venezia (HI hostel)163 179–184 Suore Canossiane 163 Dogana di Mare 139 hotels (by area): Doge’s Palace 54–57 north of the Piazza 157 Dorsoduro map 76 west of the Piazza 158 L in Cannaregio 160 in Central Castello 161 in Dorsoduro 159 Libreria Sansoviniana 61 in Eastern Castello 162 Lido 151 E in San Polo & Santa Croce 159 lost property 174 hotels: Eastern Castello map 124 Abbazia 160 embassies 174 Accademia Villa Maravege 159 emergency phone numbers Adua 160 M 174 Agli Alboretti 159 Ai Do Mori 157 Madonna dell’Orto 109 Al Gallo 159 Malamocco 152 Al Leon 161 Marco Polo airport 167 F Al Saor 160 menus (vocabulary) 181–184 Ala 158 Mercerie 63 Alex 159 Fenice 70, 75 Miracoli 115 Art Deco 158 Festa del Redentore 173 Bernardi Semenzato 160 modern art museum 92 Festa della Salute 173 Ca’ Fóscari 159 Mulino Stucky 151 Festa della Sensa 173 Ca’ Pisani 159 Murano 141–143 festivals 172–174 Canada 161 Murano map 141 Film Festival 172 Caneva 161 Murazzi 153 Fondaco dei Tedeschi 134 Casa Linger 162 Museo Archeologico 59 Fondaco dei Turchi 94, 137 Casa Martini 160 Museo Correr 59 Fondamenta Nove 111 Casa Petrarca 158 Museo del Settecento food & drink (vocabulary) Casa Querini 161 Veneziano 85 181–184 Casa Verardo 161 Museo del Vetro (Murano) 142 Fortezza di Sant’Andrea 152 Danieli 161 Museo di Dipinti Sacri Fortuny Museum 66 Del Ghetto 160 Bizantini 121 Doni 161 Frari 96–98 Museo di Storia Naturale 94 Falier 159 Fiorita 158 Museo di Torcello 145 Flora 158 Museo Diocesano 119 Gabrielli Sandwirth 162 Museo Ebraico 108 G Giorgione 160 Museo Fortuny 66 Gritti Palace 158 Museo Goldoni 96 Galleria Giorgio Franchetti 110 Kette 158 Museo Orientale 93

Contents Index and Small Print 190 Museo Storico Navale 128 Palazzo dei Camerlenghi 138 Acqua Pazza 74 Museum Cards 171 Palazzo Ducale 54–57 Ae Oche 101 museums & galleries: Palazzo Farsetti 135 Ai Cugnai 87 Accademia 77–79 Palazzo Grassi 135 Ai Pescatori 146 archeological museum 59 Palazzo Grimani 135 Ai Quattro Ferri 87 Ca’ d’Oro 110 Palazzo Labia 106, 131 Al Bacco 111 Ca’ Rezzonico 85 Al Conte Pescaor 68 Palazzo Loredan 135 Al Gatto Nero 147 Galleria Giorgio Franchetti 110 Palazzo Mocenigo (San Marco) Galleria Internazionale d’Arte Al Ponte del Diavolo 147 135 Moderna 92 Alla Madonna 101 Guggenheim 79 Palazzo Mocenigo (San Polo) Alla Vedova 111 modern art museum 92 94 Alle Testiere 122 Museo Archeologico 59 Palazzo Mocenigo Vecchio 135 Altanella 154

INDEX Museo Correr 59 Palazzo Mocenigo-Nero 135 Anice Stellato 112 Museo del Settecento Palazzo Pisani (at Santo Antica Mola 112 Veneziano 85 Stefano) 73 Anzolo Raffael 87 Museo del Vetro (Murano) 142 Palazzo Querini-Stampalia 119 Bancogiro 101 Museo di Dipinti Sacri Palazzo Vendramin-Calergi Bentigodi 112 Busa alla Torre 147 Bizantini 121 131 Casa Mia 112 Museo di Storia Naturale 94 Palazzo Venier dei Leoni 139 Museo di Torcello 145 Casin dei Nobili 87 Parco delle Rimembranze 128 Corte Sconta 129 Museo Diocesano 119 Pellestrina 153 Museo Ebraico 108 Da Carla 74 Pescheria 90 Museo Fortuny 66 Da Fiore (San Marco) 74 Museo Goldoni 96 phones 175 Da Fiore (San Polo) 102 Museo Orientale 93 phrases 179–184 Da Gianni 88 Museo Storico Navale 128 Piazza San Marco 51–62 Da Remigio 123 natural history museum 94 Piazza San Marco map 51 Da Sandro 102 Palazzo Mocenigo 94 Piazzale Roma 167 Dai Tosi 130 Pinacoteca Querini-Stampalia Piazzetta 60 Do Mori 154 119 Pietà 121 Fiaschetteria Toscana 123 Harry’s Bar 74 Scuola dei Merletti (Burano) Pinacoteca Querini-Stampalia 143 Harry’s Dolci 154 119 Il Refolo 102 Scuola di San Giorgio degli police 174 Schiavoni 126 Il Sole sulla Vecia Cavana 112 Ponte Calatrava 131 Jazz Club 900 102 Scuola Grande dei Carmini 84 Ponte degli Scalzi 131 Scuola Grande di San Rocco La Colombina 112 Ponte dei Pugni 84 98–98 La Piscina 88 Ponte dei Sospiri 57 La Zucca 102 Ponte dell’Accademia 136 Le Bistrot de Venise 68 Ponte di Rialto 134 Osteria al Ponte, “La Patatina” N post offices 174 103 Procuratie Nuove 59 Osteria Sant’Elena 130 Procuratie Vecchie 58 Ribò 103 natural history museum 94 Rosticceria Gislon 68 public toilets 175 Vini da Gigio 112 Rialto Bridge 134 Rialto market 89, 138 O Riva degli Schiavoni 120 R Rolling Venice card 168 opera house 70, 75 room-booking service 157 oriental museum 93 railway station 167 Ospedaletto 118 Redentore 150 Regata Storica 173 restaurants (by area): S north of the Piazza 68 west of the Piazza 74 P St Mark’s 52–54 in Cannaregio 111 San Barnaba 85 in Central Castello 122 Palazzi Barbaro 136 in Dorsoduro 87 San Bartolomeo 66 Palazzi Giustinian 138 in Eastern Castello 129 San Cassiano 92 Palazzo Balbi 138 in San Polo & Santa Croce 101 San Francesco della Vigna 126 Palazzo Contarini-Fasan 136 on Giudecca 154 San Geremia 106 Palazzo Corner della Ca’ on Burano 146 San Giacomo dell’Orio 94 Grande 136 on Murano 147 San Giacomo di Rialto 91 Palazzo Corner della Regina on Torcello 147 San Giobbe 107 137 restaurants San Giorgio dei Greci 121 Palazzo Dario 139 Aciugheta 122 San Giorgio Maggiore 148

Contents Index and Small Print 191 San Giorgio Maggiore map Santa Maria Formosa 118 MondoNovo 86 148 Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari Murano Collezioni 146 San Giovanni Crisostomo 114 96–98 Paolo Olbi 67 San Giovanni Decollato 94 Santa Maria Mater Domini 92 Penso Davide 146 San Giovanni in Brágora 127 Santi Apostoli 110 Polliero 101 San Giuliano 64 Santi Giovanni e Paolo 116 Sansovino 67 Scuola dei Merletti 146 San Lazzaro degli Armeni 153 Santi Maria e Donato Seguso 61 San Marco 52–54 (Murano) 143 Tragicomica 101 San Marco: North of the Santo Stefano 72 Valeria Bellinaso 101 Piazza map 64 Scala del Bovolo 66 Venini 146 INDEX San Marco Piazza map 51 Scalzi 105 Sottomarina 153 San Marco: West of the Piazza Scuola degli Albanesi 72 Squero di San Trovaso 81 map 70 Scuola dei Merletti (Burano) Strada Nova 109 San Martino (Burano) 144 143 San Maurizio 72 Scuola dei Tiraoro e Batioro 93 San Michele 140 Scuola di San Giorgio degli San Michele in Isola 140 Schiavoni 126 T San Moisè 69 Scuola di San Giovanni San Nicolò (Lido) 152 Evangelista 99 taxis (water taxis) 171 San Nicolò da Tolentino 100 Scuola Grande dei Carmini 84 Teatro Malibran 114, 123 San Nicolò dei Mendicoli 83 Scuola Grande di San Marco telephones 175 San Pantaleone 99 118 toilets 175 San Pietro di Castello 128 Scuola Grande di San Rocco Tolentini 100 San Pietro Martire (Murano) 98–99 Torcello 144–146 142 scuole 98 Torcello map 144 San Polo 96 Sensa 173 Torre dell’Orologio 58 San Polo map 90 shops (by area): tourist information 167 San Rocco 99 on Piazza San Marco 61 traghetti 170 San Salvador 64 north of the Piazza 67 train station 167 San Sebastiano 82 west of the Piazza 73 transport 168–171 San Simeone Profeta 95 in Central Castello 121 Treviso airport 167 San Stae 93 in Dorsoduro 86 San Trovaso 82 in San Polo & Santa Croce 100 on Burano 146 San Zaccaria 119 on Murano 146 San Zan Degolà 94 shops V San Zanipolo 116 Alberto Valese 73 San Zulian 64 Barovier & Toso 146 vaporetti 169 Sant’Alvise 108 Berengo Fine Arts 146 Venice airport 167, 174 Sant’Elena 129 Bottega dei Mascareri 100 Venice Card 168 Santa Croce map 90 Ca’ Macana 86 Via Garibaldi 128 Santa Fosca (Cannaregio) 110 Coin 121 Vogalonga 173 Santa Fosca (Torcello) 145 Costantini 73 Santa Lucia train station 167 Domus Vetri d’Arte 146 Santa Maria dei Miracoli 115 Fantoni 67 Santa Maria del Carmelo 84 Filippi Editore Venezia 121 W Santa Maria del Giglio 71 Francis Model 100 Santa Maria del Rosario 81 Goldoni 67 waterbuses 169 Santa Maria dell’Assunta Jesurum 61 Kerer 122 (Torcello) 145 L’Isola 74 Santa Maria della Assunta 111 La Nave d’Oro 86 Santa Maria della Fava 119 La Scialuppa 100 Z Santa Maria della Salute 80 Legatoria Piazzesi 73 Santa Maria della Visitazione Libreria della Toletta 86 Záttere 81 121 Marina Barovier 74 Zecca 61 Santa Maria di Nazaretta 105 Missiaglia 61 Zitelle 150

Contents Index and Small Print N S. Elena VENICE 0 500 m 0 S. Pietro di Castello Giardini Pubblici Arsenale EASTERN EASTERN CASTELLO CASTELLO in Isola S. Michele della Vigna di S. S. Francesco Scuola Giorgio San Pieta Michele Maggiore S. Giorgio e Paolo SS. Giovanni Formosa S. Maria Miracoli Ducale Palazzo SAN PIAZZO MARCO S. Marco Zitelle CENTRAL CASTELLO Salute Ca' d’Oro Rialto dell'Orto Madonna E D SAN

N MARCO A R G CAMPO La Giudecca CAMPO S. POLO

L S. STEFANO

A Accademia

N Redentore

A Frari

Ghetto C Ca' Rezzonico S. Rocco CAMPO SAN POLO & SAN POLO & SANTA CROCE SANTA SANTA CROCE SANTA S. MARGHERITA CANNAREGIO DORSODURO Train Station (Car Park & Bus Station) Piazzale Roma S. Sebastiano Stazione Marittima Car Park ISLANDS NORTHERN Lido

Torcello Burano

Murano VENICE ISLANDS SOUTHERN Mestre I R C E I C . D T N . D E O N SAN MARCO E L' B A L A I S G E V C N O A EL D I L L E G CAMPO E A L TE L . Rialto SAN R A S C A CAMPO SANTO AGOSTIN I Market H GIACOMO DI R. d. F R C onteg . C RIALTO o d E d. T CAMPO DI e V ed es C ll A c SANTO MARINA a G h A U i M L R L a C E d A Fondaco d. PON T o L R n O C L A E RIALTOTE D E Rio di S. Polo n N Tedeschi CAMPO A L D V e AV L R E I I t L E S SAN t E L a D S D S A A E STIN A T N T N I U T P A Rio di S. Polo E A R CAMPO S. H S I R. di S. Apollinare G S. Silvestro I R O S. Lio U L A N BARTOLOMEO CAMPO Rio di S. Stin CAMPO R V D E I Rialto DI SANTA DI SAN POLO S S

T O MARIA R. della R 1, 82, N CAMPO O SA FORMOSA L D S. Maria San Polo DI SAN I S S. Bartolomeo C. . LI Formosa SILVESTRO D. S O O TA OV R. dei Meloni Traghetto GN N ER R.della Fava I DO ON Frari R. d. Frari M CAMPO S. Maria EL M . D Palazzo S. SALVADOR MERCERIA 2 APRILES. Salvador della Fava C CAMPO ad DEI FRARI o Loredan

nn S. Silvestro (Municipio) Rio della etta 1 Palazzo R M Guerra io ERC. D. CA Palazzo d Avogadro Teatro e R. di S. Tomà Museo Grimani Goldoni i S . S PITELLO A Palazzo arettari PISC. R Goldoni a ER R. d. Guerra C. DEI FABBRI lv U Querini- a S. ZULIAN G d . Palazzo o D Stampalia CAMPO r O R. di S. Luca Farsetti C. BALLOTTE . P SAN TOMÀ S. Giuliano C CAMPO io dei B CANAL GRANDES. Benedetto R C R A . S. LUCA L d R LE i . S C d P S. Luca C e a i F E C . e M Rio di Ca Santi ra C S. Angelo 1 G . i C M . C D O H S D . I L A E ic E S E L D NNE R I P h I O A I Z O i Z F O D U R

e . N C. DEI FABBRI L i O A l C CAMPO S I O O Traghetto C H L R RC Palazzo . E n C I MA i O R. di Ca Gazoni I . o A E MANIN R l N D S . D l G SA I T E A m IO e I A Balbi I E R O RG A T a p LA Palazzo V EA c p LE S. Tomà O T R. dei a a L C R CA Museo o C Z. S. PRÓVOLO

A O c BERA SALIZ Corner Spinelli C 1, 82, N l P. DEI T Rio di Palazzo I S

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D IN L R. di S. Angelo N S .

A S L M A Bovolo F R E D. SS i O . A r N D C C . se D

A .T R Fu E L C R . dei A San Marco

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C. D. e SA S. Fantin C. DEL ASCENSION Palazzo Ca’ Rezzonico S. Samuele FENICE i O B Ducale R a S. IE r I P c Samuele AL S. Stefano a Procuratie Libreria CAMPO S. M TRO R. d. Veste ro AL li i 82, N SAMUELE S C Nuove Sansoviniana . TEA CAMPO . La Fenice D ca C. D SANTO . ec Ponte dei Ponte V SAL S. MOISE S.Moise Z MOLO STEFANO E ella Traghetto R. d. Fenice S R. d Sospiri della Ca' Rezzonico Palazzo T C A E CAMPO . Giardinetti RZ V Zecca Paglia 1 O Loredan O S. MOISE A T C ARZ L S . S. Maurizio I M L Reali XI C. D. RIDOTTO TE F RGA X A R R . LA R O U Palazzo S. Maria C E C T C T S A A S R CAMPO S. R Morosini del Giglio L O Ò io de i L MAURIZIO L N E Ca'del A I D N Duca I E T i S R. del Duca S L IU CAMPO T G R . M LE PISANI ILE A L G A oise C H PAN S. Vitale E M T S. Marco T Palazzo

.CA Giustinian 1, 82, N R. S. Vidal . Zobenigo D CAMPO Palazzo R. Corner Zaquri O DEL Accademia Palazzo O Corner T TRAGHETTO

1, 82, N IT IA R. dell ’OrsoPisani della TE D. EM

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I N Dogana I CAMPO DELLA R Guggenheim S. Gregorio A CAMPO SALUTE di Mare C Collection S S. VIO O F R IN E O I D I A N N G FONDA E MENTA VENIER O A V R T B F A N ' O N A A N I C À C E D ECUMENI R S D A DEI CAT E I TERÀ A M IO S. Maria T P T R

S. Agnese N E S. Maria della O E R N della Salute I I R M O T

A T Visitagiore A D E R

N D O À F E Gesuati D CAMPO DI L E L I SANT' AGNESE A RIO TERÀ DI SAN VIO C A

F T

O E C ZAT R T U ER N E M AL A G E E C SU N

A E TI I Casa degli Magazzini Incurabili del Sale 0 100 m MAIN WATER BUS SERVICES

TORCELLO T Torcello Treporti LN 13 Burano MURANO BURANO LN T

41 42 41 42 Venier LN Serenella Mazzorbo 41 42 Museo

41 42 Colonna 41 42 Punta LN 13 41 42 Navagero Sabbioni 41 42 Faro LN 41 42 51 52 41 42 51 52 Madonna Cimitero S. Alvise dell'Orto 13 Punta Vela

41 42 51 52 13 Tre Archi Chiesa 41 42 13 51 52 LN 13 41 42 51 52 Capannone Guglie Fondamente Nove 13 S. ERASMO 1 82 N Vignole S. Marcuola 82 N 1 41 42 Tronchetto 51 52 82 N Ferrovia Ospedale Riva 1 N Ca' d'Oro 41 42 di 51 52 Biasio 1 N Celestia Bacini 1 S. Stae 41 42 41 42 1 51 52 51 52 41 42 1 51 52 82 N S. Silvestro Rialto Piazzale Roma 1 82 N 1 1 82 N S. Tomà 20 41 42 51 52 82 N 1 41 42 S. Angelo 1 S. Zaccaria Arsenale 1 N S. Marta S. N 41 42 1 82 41 42 S. Pietro Samuele 1 51 52 1 82 N 51 52 51 52 82 N Ca' Rezzonico Giglio Vallaresso (S. Marco) Giardini LIDO S. Basilio

Zattere Accademia Salute 51 52 82 N 1 82 N 1 S. Giorgio 1 41 42 Sacca 82 N 51 52 Fisola S. Elena 41 42 S. Maria Elisabetta 82 N Palanca Redentore Zitelle 41 42 41 42 41 42 1 LN 20 82 N 82 N 82 N 51 52 N

GIUDECCA

S. Lazzaro S. Servolo 20 20 N

Water bus route 82 Water bus route number Water bus stop

ISBN 1-84353-353-7