SAN JUANSAN ISLAND HISTORICAL NATIONAL PARK ® A Resource Assessment

November 2007 ®

Center for State of the Parks

More than a century ago, Congress established Yellowstone as the CONTENTS world’s first national park. That single act was the beginning of a remarkable and ongoing effort to protect this nation’s natural, historical, and cultural heritage. Today, Americans are learning that national park designation INTRODUCTION 1 alone cannot provide full resource protection. Many parks are compromised by development of adjacent lands, air and water pollu- RESOURCE MANAGEMENT tion, invasive plants and animals, and rapid increases in motorized HIGHLIGHTS 2 recreation. Park officials often lack adequate information on the status of and trends in conditions of critical resources. THE ASSESSMENT 5 The National Parks Conservation Association initiated the State of the Parks® program in 2000 to assess the condition of natural and cultural resources in the parks, and determine how well equipped the KEY FINDINGS 6 National Park Service is to protect the parks—its stewardship capac- ity. The goal is to provide information that will help policy-makers, CULTURAL RESOURCES 8 the public, and the National Park Service improve conditions in Park Harbors Both Historic and national parks, celebrate successes as models for other parks, and Prehistoric Resources ensure a lasting legacy for future generations. For more information about the methodology and research used NATURAL RESOURCES 12 in preparing this report and to learn more about the Center for State of the Parks®, visit www.npca.org/stateoftheparks or contact: NPCA, Restoring Historic Settings and Center for State of the Parks®, P.O. Box 737, Fort Collins, CO 80522; Preserving Native Ecosystems Phone: 970.493.2545; E-mail: [email protected]. STEWARDSHIP CAPACITY 16 Since 1919, the National Parks Conservation Association has been the leading voice of the American people in protecting and enhanc- APPENDIX: ing our National Park System. NPCA, its members, and partners work METHODOLOGY 20 together to protect the park system and preserve our nation’s natural, historical, and cultural heritage for generations to come.

* More than 325,000 members * 22 regional and field offices * 35,000 activists

A special note of appreciation goes to those whose generous grants and donations made this report possible: Dorothy Canter, Ben and Ruth Hammett, MSST Foundation, and anonymous donors.

COVER PHOTO: LAUNDRESS QUARTERS AT AMERICAN CAMP. COURTESY OF MIKE VOURI Spanish gave thegroupofislandsits current British andtheSpanishcharted theislands; 9,000 years. During the18thcentury, boththe cates humanoccupationreaching backatleast sands ofyears; archaeologicalevidenceindi- peoples have inhabitedtheislandsforthou- islands hasbeenextensive. CentralCoastSalish Washington. Humanoccupationanduseofthe ing of172islandsoffthecoaststate The SanJuanIslandsareanarchipelagoconsist- INTRODUCTION middle oftheStrait ofJuandeFuca,thensouth Canada alongthe49thnorth paralleltothe boundary between theUnitedStatesand contention forseveral decades. the early19thcentury, afactthatprompted both theAmericanandBritishgovernments in Island, theSanJuanIslandswere claimedby land UnitedStatesandCanada’s Vancouver name. Nearlyequidistantbetween themain- The 1846Treaty ofOregonestablishedthe Island. Canada’s Vancouver Washington and the coastof are locatedbetween The SanJuanIslands

ERIN MCPHERSON San Juan Island National Historical Park 1 RESOURCE MANAGEMENT HIGHLIGHTS down the middle of “the channel” that sepa- rates the continent from Vancouver Island. The negotiators, located thousands of miles away, • The park is in the final stages of drafting and updating a new were unaware that two major channels existed: general management plan (GMP) to replace the existing one, Haro Strait near Vancouver Island and Rosario which was written in 1979. The new plan is slated for comple- Strait to the east, near the mainland United tion in 2008, and it will provide overall resource management States. The treaty failed to specify which strait guidance, including strategies for dealing with destructive, would constitute the water boundary between non-native rabbits. The draft plan is scheduled to be released the two nations, an omission that years later for public comment in November of 2007. would nearly cause the United States and Great 2 • Park staff recently partnered with the Washington Britain to go to war over possession of the San Conservation Corps to control erosion and stabilize an Juan Islands. exposed shell midden on the north coast of the English Camp The settlement of San Juan Island began ark in Garrison Bay. The project has protected archaeological during the 1850s. The British Hudson’s Bay resources from being washed away or exposed to poachers. Company established a fishing camp on the island in 1850-51 and a sheep farm in 1853. • In the summer of 2005, park staff finished replacing the roofs of As Americans returned from the Frazier River all the historic buildings with cedar shingles, preventing gold rush in Canada, many began claiming damage from leaks. farmsteads in the same open prairies valued • As an example of the park’s commitment to care for and inter- by the British for sheep grazing, which pret the wide gamut of resources resident in San Juan Island increasingly led to disputes over ownership. National Historical Park, staff recently installed an exhibit that Tensions between the two groups came to a interprets prehistoric archaeology, displaying items such as head on June 15, 1859. On that morning, an

San Juan Island National Historical P shells and early tools. American citizen named Lyman Cutlar shot and killed a boar that he found rooting through his • In 2003, park staff began prescribed burns in the Garry oak potato patch. The boar had wandered from the stands at Young Hill in the English Camp. The reintroduction of Belle Vue Farm, which was owned by the British fire into the ecosystem will benefit fire-resistant native species Hudson’s Bay Company. Cutlar offered to pay and help restore the natural course of ecosystem change for the boar, but the farm manager was not through time. willing to negotiate, and ill will escalated. In response, both countries sent troops to the island to protect their interests and their citi- The exterior of the Officers’ Quarters at the American Camp has been zens. Threats and ultimatums were exchanged restored to its original appearance. and battle appeared imminent. Fortunately, before shots could be fired, senior officials from both governments were able to intervene and negotiate a cease fire in the dispute that became ERIN MCPHERSON known as “The Pig War.” Both sides agreed to a joint occupation of the island until a diplomatic resolution could be made regarding the boundary. The American Camp grew on the south end of the island where the conflict had begun. In 1860, the British established their camp in a shel- tered bay on the north end of the island, NATIONAL PARK SERVICE NATIONAL PARK SERVICE 3 ark San Juan Island National Historical P within easy sailing of their naval base at PRESERVING A UNIQUE STORY Esquimalt on Vancouver Island. San Juan Island National Historical Park For the next 12 years, both nations occupied encompasses 1,752 acres on San Juan Island in San Juan Island peacefully, each with one Washington. The park’s boundaries include the company of light infantry. The American Civil English and American Camps, which are War prevented speedy resolution of the boundary located on opposite ends of the island. conflict. Finally, German Kaiser Wilhelm I was On July 27, 1859, Captain George E. Pickett, chosen to decide ownership of the islands once who would later garner fame as a general in the and for all. On October 21, 1872, his committee Confederate Army, settled the American Camp ruled in favor of the United States and estab- on the southeastern tip of San Juan Island. The lished the international boundary at Haro Strait. camp was established to protect the American Nearly 100 years later, in 1966, Congress offi- citizens on the island from the British inhabi- cially recognized the historic importance of tants and the American Indians in the area. The those 19th-century events and established San U.S. Army built 34 structures at the camp; three Juan Island National Historical Park to preserve are still standing today. This unit of San Juan and interpret the American and English Camps. Island National Historical Park covers 1,223 This is the only unit of the National Park System acres and includes much of the original military dedicated to the peaceful resolution of conflict, reservation. giving it a unique role in teaching the history of The English Camp, located on the northwest- our nation and its relationship with the world. ern shore of the island, was established eight months later. The English chose their site had been sold to developers, so individual because it was protected from the elements and parcels had to be purchased by the federal was geographically separated from the government for inclusion in the new park. American Camp. The Royal Marines erected at San Juan Island National Historical Park least 37 structures at their camp during the joint commemorates the events of the joint occupa- occupation, six of which can still be seen today. tion, preserves historic structures, and celebrates This unit of the park covers 529 acres and the lasting legacy of peace along the border includes only a portion of the original British between the United States and Canada—the military reservation. world’s longest unfortified border. Eight perma- Though the soldiers obviously represented nent staff members with a limited budget care opposing interests, they regularly visited each for resources that include 1,752 acres of cultural 4 other’s camps to celebrate holidays and to chal- landscapes, 23 historic structures (including the lenge one another to sporting competitions. remnants of wells, walls, and foundations), and ark Following the end of the military occupation innumerable archaeological resources still period in 1872, the English Camp site was occu- concealed beneath the soil. This small staff also pied by the Crook family as a farm and home- serves the 260,000 people who visit the park stead until the state of Washington acquired the each year. site in 1963. The American military relinquished Because the park focuses on historical control of the American Camp in 1874. Various events, the staff works to restore and maintain homesteaders established farms on the former the historic scene of the camps as they were military reservation. The land was used primarily between 1853 and 1871. San Juan Island for a variety of agricultural purposes until the National Historical Park’s natural resources are 1950s. The state of Washington acquired the not ignored, however; on the contrary, their

San Juan Island National Historical P core of the historic camp in 1953, eventually care is closely tied to cultural resource manage- donating it to the National Park Service in 1966. ment goals. But by that time much of the American Camp

English Camp was composed of at least 37 structures. Six are still standing, ELIZABETH MEYERS including the barracks, hospital, and blockhouse. THE ASSESSMENT NATIONAL PARK SERVICE

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Recognizing San Juan Island National Historical can be found online (www.npca.org/state- This painting shows Park’s significance to our shared national oftheparks). the English Camp as it looked in 1868. It heritage, NPCA’s Center for State of the Parks Current overall conditions of San Juan Island was painted by E.L. endeavored to determine the conditions of National Historical Park’s known cultural Porcher, a junior resources protected within the park. Researchers resources rated a “fair” score of 67 out of 100, officer aboard the gathered information and used established, and natural resources received a “fair” score of HMS Sparrowhawk. peer-reviewed methodologies to assess and 72 out of 100. This report describes park Compare to photo on previous page. systematically rate conditions of both cultural resources and summarizes resource conditions. and natural resources at San Juan Island National Historical Park. These methodologies Note: When interpreting the scores for natural resource conditions, recognize that critical information upon which the ratings are based is not always available. This limits data interpretation to some extent. For San Juan Island National Historical Park, 58 percent of the information required by the methodology was available.

RESOURCE CATEGORY CURRENT

NATURAL RESOURCES

Overall conditions 72 FAIR 6 Ecosystems Measures 66 Ecosystem Extent and Function 65 Species Composition and Condition 67 ark Environmental and Biotic Measures 77 Biotic Impacts and Stressors 73 Air 100 Water 78 Soils 80

RATINGS SCALE

CRITICAL POOR FAIR GOOD EXCELLENT

CULTURAL RESOURCES

San Juan Island National Historical P Overall conditions 67 FAIR History 93 Archaeology 56 Cultural Landscapes 73 Historic Structures 65 Museum Collection and Archives 68 Ethnography 69

RATINGS SCALE CRITICAL POOR FAIR GOOD EXCELLENT

The findings in this report do not necessarily reflect past or current park management. Many factors that affect resource conditions are a result of both human and natural influences over long periods of time, in many cases predating the park’s creation. The intent of the Center for State of the Parks is to document the present status of park resources and determine what actions can be taken to protect them in the future. KEY FINDINGS

• The park’s budget has not kept pace with • Non-native European rabbits are wreak- rising expenses. Cost increases have ing havoc on archaeological resources exceeded funding increases by about 4 and park ecosystems, especially the percent per year and have resulted in a prairie at the American Camp. The shortage of operating funds. At existing damage they are responsible for includes funding levels, the park cannot afford to habitat degradation, loss of native vege- adequately control non-native species, tation cover, and an increase in non- plant native species, or maintain and native plant species. restore historic structures. 7 • Non-native plants are common within the • Staff positions have gone unfilled due to park’s prairie ecosystem, partly because a consistent lack of funding, while the of past agricultural practices. Invaders ark park needs funds to hire additional such as Himalayan blackberries, tansy resource management, law enforcement, ragwort, Canada thistle, and bull thistle maintenance, and interpretive staff. The are found throughout the park’s acreage, park’s draft general management plan and damage by rabbits has facilitated cites the need for seven additional staff. their spread. Other noxious weeds such as herb Robert, spotted knapweed, and • Though much cultural resource work has sulfur cinquefoil have also been found in been done on the island, incalculable the park in recent years. archaeological resources remain undis- covered and are at the mercy of erosion • Residential development poses a signifi- San Juan Island National Historical P and illegal collection. Funds are needed cant threat to both natural resources and for an archaeological overview and cultural landscapes at the park. In addi- assessment, which would include infor- tion to compromising historic views, mation on all known and potential sites, increased development will further tax and would help staff understand what the local water supply. There are also additional work is needed. An archaeo- concerns that residential septic systems logical overview and assessment would could fail and affect water quality in the also provide information to help staff park’s coastal watersheds. Development interpret the park’s American Indian also fragments native ecosystems and history. can isolate wildlife populations, which is a particular concern with rare habitats such • Researching international archives to as prairie and Garry oak woodland. learn more about the historic boundary dispute between the United States and Great Britain would refresh and update an already powerful and enduring message of peace. Funds are needed to support this work. ERIN MCPHERSON

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The formal garden CULTURAL RESOURCES—PARK and the history of American Indians. But inade- at English Camp was HARBORS BOTH HISTORIC AND quate and outdated facilities, as well as staffing- fully restored and is PREHISTORIC RESOURCES and funding shortfalls, limit this work. To open to visitors. address these issues, the park’s draft general San Juan Island National Historical Park inter- management plan calls for replacing the tempo- prets a contentious event in American history rary modular building that now serves as the and serves as a testament to the possibility of American Camp visitor center. It also recom- peaceful conflict resolution between nations. mends that the park obtain an additional inter- Though the park was specifically created to pretive ranger, more funding for curatorial interpret the 12-year period when citizens and work, additional staff to maintain historic struc- soldiers from America and Britain occupied San tures and manage natural resources, and three Juan Island and the preceding events, park staff additional seasonal positions. would like to expand programs and exhibits to San Juan Island National Historical Park highlight other topics such as natural resources preserves 23 historic structures, located at both the American and English Camps. Structures at The park’s historic structures are integral to the English Camp include the blockhouse, interpretation. A two-member maintenance barracks, commissary, hospital, and a restored crew works full time to protect these historic English formal garden. This site also includes structures from powder post beetles, natural the Crook House, which dates from the post- deterioration, dry rot, and other threats. In addi- military period. The one-room commissary is tion to support for regular maintenance activi- believed to be the oldest surviving English ties, the park requires more staff and funding for Camp structure, and the two-room barracks is extensive rehabilitation of some of the historic still used by the park as a visitor center in the structures such as the laundress quarters at the summer; both were restored in the 1970s. The American Camp. The park’s deferred mainte- blockhouse was restored in the early 1990s; the nance backlog is about $1.66 million. first level is open to the public in summer. Also vital to the park’s interpretation efforts 9 Other structures, except for the English garden, are the cultural landscapes that include and are closed to the public. surround the historic structures. These land- ark Surviving structures at the American Camp scapes set the scene for visitors to envision the include the laundress quarters, the officers’ historical events that took place on San Juan quarters, the reconstructed fenced parade Island. Non-native plants and animals are ground, and the earthen redoubt. Work on the encroaching on the cultural landscapes, chang- redoubt, which is essentially a fortification ing their historical appearances. Top restoration with earthen gun platforms, began in 1859, priorities include clearing historic vistas, but it stopped when the peaceful settlement of controlling the non-native rabbit population to joint occupation was signed. The redoubt is restore native grasses, and clearing the historic considered one of the most intact examples of road connecting the American Camp to Old San

pre-Civil War military construction in the Juan Town. San Juan Island National Historical P United States. Although few of the structures that were once

Funds are needed to restore the laun- dress quarters at

ERIN MCPHERSON American Camp, which is where the camp’s laundress and her family lived. Construction of the redoubt, which is a

fortification with MIKE VOURI earthen gun plat- forms, began in 1859 but was never finished because a peaceful resolution to the conflict was found.

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San Juan Island National Historical P part of the American and English Camps are sites have been identified within San Juan still standing, a wealth of archaeological Island National Historical Park, including Guss resources provides further insight into 19th- Island, which the Lummi people identify as century events and people. To date, 19 of San their place of origin. Though several specialized Juan Island’s archaeological sites are listed in studies have been conducted, a number of those the Archaeological Sites Management are outdated, and the full extent of prehistoric Information System (ASMIS), a service-wide archaeology has yet to be realized. database of archaeological information. Consequently, an archaeological overview and According to a 2006 ASMIS update, nine are in assessment is one of the park’s highest priori- good condition, nine are in fair condition, and ties. A comprehensive overview and assessment one is in poor condition. Overall, the park has would help staff identify and protect archaeo- focused on historic archaeology more than logical resources and expand interpretation of prehistoric archaeology, as is mandated in the historic structures, ethnography, prehistory, and establishing legislation of the park. The historic traditional uses. Above all, a comprehensive research has established baseline data that is assessment would prioritize the park’s extensive used to restore the military camp landscapes archaeological needs. and structures. San Juan Island National Historical Park In addition to mid-19th-century historical does not have an archaeologist on staff. Instead, resources, the park likely possesses abundant the park relies on assistance from university prehistoric archaeological resources that have partnerships and the Pacific West Regional yet to be discovered, researched, and inter- Office, whose staff serve many parks and do not preted. Thus far, ten prehistoric archaeological have the time and resources to address all of the park’s needs. In addition, garnering funds to collectively as the Central Coast Salish, they support archaeology projects can be a challenge. include the Lummi, Klallam, Swinomish, In the absence of archaeology staff and project Samish, San Juan Tribe of Indians, Mitchell Bay funds, archaeological sites remain threatened by Tribe, and the Canadian Songhees, Saanich, and erosion and illegal collecting of artifacts. Sites at Semiahmoo bands. Some of these groups estab- risk would benefit from the addition of more lished permanent settlements on the islands, seasonal interpreters and law-enforcement while others were transient and used the islands rangers who could explain the importance of for temporary camps. These peoples fished, resources to visitors and monitor their activities. harvested shellfish, hunted, and cultivated the San Juan Island National Historical Park camas plant (Camassia ssp.) on San Juan Island. does not have the proper on-site facilities to The park would like to further research the fully care for its museum collection and Salish peoples and interpret their lives through 11 archives, which include shells, buttons, military exhibits and programs. But because prehistory emblems, smoking pipes, leather shoe parts, and early use of the islands are not included in ark ceramics, bottles, bricks, and window panes. the park’s establishing legislation, the staff The archive includes letters from the 1860s, cannot focus on this work while funding short- photographs, and visitor logs. The falls exist. For now, the park interprets these first Marblemount Facility at North Cascades inhabitants with a prehistoric exhibit that was National Park stores about 400,000 items, Fort installed at the American Camp visitor center in Camas plants were Vancouver National Historic Site houses 53,000 the summer of 2006, and prehistoric history is an important food items from the Hudson’s Bay Company, and the interpreted in special summer programs. for American Indian University of Washington’s Burke Museum in peoples on the San Juan Islands. Seattle stores some 500,000 prehistoric items.

Partnerships with these sites are critical for San Juan Island National Historical P proper storage of the collection and archives, but it is difficult for the park’s interpretive staff MIKE VOURI to develop new exhibits when the collections are located off site. Staff would like to be able to display more of the museum collection, and they are currently working toward this goal. The park’s draft general management plan calls for permanent and rotating exhibits to display artifacts from the collection and to educate the public about the role of archaeology at the park. More funding is also needed to support the curator at the Marblemount Facility. At current funding levels, there is only enough support for the curator to care for the collection for about six weeks each year. Although the enabling legislation for San Juan Island National Historical Park focuses on the period of dual occupation in the mid-1800s, the area has a rich history of use and settlement by several groups of American Indians. Known BRENNAN GARRELTS

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In keeping with the NATURAL RESOURCES—RESTORING Much of San Juan Island National Historical park’s management HISTORIC SETTINGS AND Park is forested, though there are large expanses goals, the prairie at PRESERVING NATIVE ECOSYSTEMS of open prairie, six miles of marine shoreline, American Camp looks much like it and unique lagoon habitats. Overall, many of did during the mid San Juan Island National Historical Park was the ecosystems, including the prairies and 1800s, though inva- created to preserve and interpret historical forests of the American and English Camps, sive species are events; the park’s natural resources and look much as they did between 1853 and 1871, causing problems. surroundings are critical elements of this story. which is compatible with park goals. But species Protecting natural resources also contributes to composition and some ecosystems have cultural resource management goals. For changed as a result of invasions by non-native example, non-native plants and animals affect species (see sidebar). both native species and cultural landscapes, so The south side of Young Hill, in the English addressing invasive species benefits both Camp, is home to a remnant stand of Garry oak natural and cultural resources. (Quercus garryana), a type of ecosystem known NON-NATIVE PLANTS AND ANIMALS PLAGUE PARK

Ecosystems and cultural landscapes within locations, prescribed fire is also used to San Juan Island National Historical Park are prepare sites for restoration; afterward, threatened by non-native plants and animals. native grasses are planted. Control efforts European rabbits (Oryctolagus cuniculus) focus on Canada thistle, California poppy were brought to the island during the 1880s (Eschscholzia californica), and a number of as a food source for settlers. The animals, other invasive species. which reproduce quickly, are wreaking havoc In addition to rabbits, other problem on the park’s archaeology and natural habi- animals include feral cats (Felis silvestris) and 13 tats, especially the prairie at American Camp. non-native red foxes (Vulpes vulpes). The The rabbits are responsible for a loss of native San Juan Islands are located along an grasses and an increase in bare soil, which is important avian migration route, and the ark quickly colonized by invasive plants such as park provides a critical resting stop for many Himalayan blackberry (Rubus discolor), species, while others nest within park Canada thistle (Cirsium arvense), and bull boundaries. Cats and foxes prey on several thistle (Cirsium vulgare). Prairie restoration is bird species, including the vesper sparrow the park’s top natural resources goal, and (Pooecetes gramineus), threatening their removing the destructive rabbits is an impor- survival. tant component of restoration efforts. Plans Invasive marine species in the waters for rabbit control will be outlined in the park’s surrounding San Juan Island National upcoming general management plan. A Historical Park include a seaweed,

feasibility study and environmental assess- (Sargassum japonica), and two bivalves— San Juan Island National Historical P ment is being drafted for rabbit control; the Pacific oyster (Crassostrea gigas) and plan should be ready in 2008. mahogany clams (Nuttalia obscurata). These To combat non-native plants and move species are considered to be potential prob- toward prairie restoration, the park receives lems for the park rather than immediate or help from the North Coast Cascades existing concerns; the park has limited data Network Exotic Plant Management Team. on marine systems and could use additional Invasive plants are removed by hand and research on species diversity in these envi- with the careful use of herbicides. In some ronments.

Prairie restoration at the park is a top prior- ity and includes plant-

ERIN MCPHERSON ing native species that are propagated by park staff. PARK HARBORS RARE ISLAND MARBLE for its high biological diversity. Garry oak wood- lands on the continent have declined, so BUTTERFLY remaining stands larger than one acre—such as the Young Hill stand—are classified as priority Previously believed to be extinct, island marble butterflies habitat ecosystems by the state of Washington. (Euchloe ausonides insulanus) were rediscovered in the San Juan To help protect the Young Hill woodland, park Islands in the late 1990s. The Park Service is working closely with staff began conducting prescribed burns in the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service to protect the island marble 2003. Resource managers expect that the rein- butterfly under the framework of a conservation agreement troduction of fire into the ecosystem will help developed by the two agencies in 2006. Management is a chal- restore natural successional processes by lenge because activities such as prescribed fires, historic land- helping fire-resistant native species, such as 14 scape restoration, and visitor activities all have the potential to Garry oak, out-compete undergrowth, such as affect the species and their habitat. In addition, rising sea levels Douglas fir (Pseudotsuga menziesii) and snow- ark associated with global warming could affect the habitat of this berry (Symphoricarpos oreophilus). rare butterfly, which sometimes lays eggs on native mustard Another special park ecosystem, the saltwater plants around old driftwood piles on beach strands. lagoons on the north shore of Griffin Bay at American Camp, provide habitat for many plant and animal species. The lagoons and surrounding salt marshes host several species that the state has listed as “sensitive,” such as sharpfruited peppergrass (Lepidium oxycarpum), Nuttall’s quillwort (Isoetes nuttallii), and erect pygmy-weed (Crassula connata). The lagoons are

San Juan Island National Historical P also a natural deposit site for driftwood, includ- ing logs that have been treated with creosote, a

The Lummi people identify Guss Island, which sits in

Garrison Bay, as ELIZABETH MEYERS their place of origin. Park managers are concerned about the decline in eelgrass in the bay. BRENNAN GARRELTS

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compound that is toxic to marine plants and English Camp. Eelgrass habitat sustains impor- Lagoons, such as animals. A preservative that has been used in tant migratory and resident animal species, Jakles Lagoon in American Camp, aquatic environs to retard wood decay, creosote including Dungeness crab (Cancer magister), provide important was often used to coat logs used in the construc- black brant (Branta bernicla), and juvenile habitat. tion of docks, and for most telephone poles. salmon (Oncorhynchus spp.). The exact causes of Park staff have identified creosote as a pollutant this loss are currently unknown, but sources of of concern for water and submerged lands. A concern include pollutants from nearby shore- joint project sponsored by the Northwest Straits line development and anchoring of recreational Commission and Washington Department of boats during the summer months. Park staff are Natural Resources is scheduled to remove these waiting for the Washington Department of logs from lagoons and other sites at the Natural Resources and the University of American Camp in late 2007. Washington Friday Harbor Labs to complete Another concern within San Juan Island their research on the decline of the eelgrass National Historical Park’s marine system is the before moving forward with restoration plans. sudden decline of eelgrass (Zostera marina) in Westcott and Garrison Bays, adjacent to the MIKE VOURI

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Storms and other STEWARDSHIP CAPACITY increased expenses. Most mandated salary unexpected events increases and costs associated with a change in cause damage that FUNDING AND STAFFING—FUNDS retirement plans have not been funded by is not covered by NEEDED FOR STAFF INCREASES AND the park’s budget. Congress and had to be absorbed by the park. RESOURCE PROJECTS These cost increases have exceeded funding Stewardship capacity details how well equipped increases by about 4 percent per year and have the Park Service is to protect the parks. The most resulted in a shortage of operating funds. significant factor affecting a park’s ability to At existing funding levels, the park cannot protect its resources is the funding a park afford to adequately control non-native species, receives from Congress and the administration. plant native species, or maintain and restore San Juan Island National Historical Park’s oper- historic structures. These structures are vital to ational budget was $725,000 in 2007. Although interpreting the park’s period of significance, the park has received some additional funding and extensive building rehabilitation is one of over the past ten years, it has not kept pace with the park’s highest priorities. Unfunded resource projects at San Juan Island National Historical park has made creative use of volunteers to staff Park total at least $358,000 and include initiat- visitor centers, the quality and variety of visitor ing the eradication of non-native European programs has declined as seasonal funding has rabbits, rehabilitating the American Camp laun- been absorbed by increased personnel costs. To dress quarters and restoring the interior of the meet existing needs, funds are needed to officers’ quarters, replacing the deteriorated support additional staff: one full-time and one elements of the English Camp barracks, and seasonal resource management specialist; one stabilizing two cultural landscapes. Tight full-time and one seasonal law enforcement budgets also leave no room for the park to ranger; one full-time and one seasonal mainte- respond to unexpected events such as storms, nance worker; and one full-time interpretive which are common in the Pacific Northwest ranger. and have the potential to significantly damage 17 resources, as occurred in 2006. PARK PLANNING—NEW GENERAL Staff positions have also gone unfilled due to MANAGEMENT PLAN NEARLY FINISHED ark a consistent lack of funding. The park’s admin- To guide the management of diverse resources, istrative officer position has been vacant for two national parks rely on a variety of plans. The years while two seasonal interpretive positions primary overarching planning document at and two seasonal maintenance positions have most parks is the general management plan not been filled. A seasonal law-enforcement (GMP). Staff at San Juan Island National position has also been shortened due to lack of Historical Park are close to finishing a new GMP funds. The staff shortage requires that existing to replace the existing plan, which dates to personnel perform additional duties, making it 1979. The new GMP will address contemporary more difficult for remaining staff to effectively management issues such as rabbit control. Once

protect and care for resources. Although the the GMP is complete, the staff plan to begin San Juan Island National Historical P

The visitor center at American Camp is too small and contains outdated BRENNAN GARRELTS exhibits. work on a resource stewardship plan to guide RESOURCE EDUCATION—NEW VISITOR cultural- and natural resource management. CENTER AND ADDITIONAL This is scheduled for 2009. INTERPRETIVE STAFF TOP CURRENT In addition to a new GMP and resource stew- NEEDS ardship plan, park resources would benefit from Visitors to San Juan Island National Historical an updated vegetation management plan, a Park may take advantage of one of the park’s comprehensive archaeological overview and interpretive presentations or simply stroll assessment, and a research design and archaeo- through the park and read interpretive panels. logical base map. These documents are needed Teachers can take students to the park for to adequately address important management ranger-led tours, or they may request educa- 18 issues, but they have yet to be completed tional materials for their classrooms. Each year, because the park lacks both the staff and funds the park hosts a reenactment event called Volunteers dressed to do so. Funds are in place and work is under Encampment. Held at the English Camp, this

ark in period costumes way on a rabbit-control feasibility study and an event commemorates the British relinquishing bring history alive at environmental impact statement for relocation Encampment, an their holdings to the Americans on November annual reenactment of the Cattle Point road, which is threatened by 22, 1872. The reenactment is complete with of 1872 events. coastal erosion. volunteers in period costumes demonstrating MIKE VOURI San Juan Island National Historical P

camp life and trades such as woodworking and blacksmithing; a candlelit ball rounds out the WHAT YOU CAN DO TO HELP day’s events. The park strives to provide an array of learn- • Participate in park planning efforts: The public is ing opportunities for visitors of all ages, but invited to provide input on all park plans and studies. San budget shortfalls have forced the park to Juan Island National Historical Park is currently updating decrease the number of interpretive programs its general management plan. Copies of the park’s plan- over the last ten years. Funds allow for only ning documents and information on public involvement two full-time interpretive staff, and there is no opportunities can be found online at www.nps.gov/sajh. money for seasonal interpreters. At least two • Volunteer in the parks. To learn about opportunities at seasonal interpreters are needed to adequately San Juan Island National Historical Park, contact the park serve park visitors, which numbered 260,000 19 at 360.378.2902. in 2006. Visitor facilities also need attention, to better • Join NPCA (www.npca.org/support_npca) and/or ark serve the public. The current visitor center at the become an NPCA activist and learn about legislative American Camp is a modular building that was initiatives affecting parks. When you join our activist intended to be temporary but has been used for network, you will receive Park Lines, a biweekly electronic the past 30 years. Exhibits within this visitor newsletter with the latest park news and ways you can center are minimal and very outdated. To better help. Join by visiting www.npca.org/take_action. serve visitors, this “temporary” building should be replaced with a modern and permanent structure. The park will submit a request to fund this project sometime this year, but this type of clothing to represent the events of the Pig War.

construction funding is limited and often takes Their first-person interpretation is an important San Juan Island National Historical P several years to obtain. component of the park’s education program. In addition to Battery D, the park has rela- EXTERNAL SUPPORT—PARTNERS AND tionships with a number of community and VOLUNTEERS PROVIDE VALUABLE conservation organizations, including the San SERVICES Juan County Land Bank, San Juan Preservation At San Juan Island National Historical Park, Trust, and the San Juan Island Trails volunteers perform the types of services that Committee. paid employees once carried out, including staffing the visitor center, performing living history demonstrations, guiding walks and giving talks, and providing informal interpreta- tion. In 2006, 199 volunteers contributed 9,856 hours of service to the park. This represents an increase over the previous decade, as the park increasingly relies on volunteers instead of paid employees. The park also receives support from Battery D, a nonprofit organization that raises funds and supports historic reenactment activities. The members of Battery D appear at several events each year dressed in period uniforms and APPENDIX: METHODOLOGY

20 To determine the condition of known natural and cultural resources at San Juan Island National Historical Park and other national ark

parks, the National Parks Conservation BRENNAN GARRELTS Association developed a resource assessment and ratings process. The assessment method- ology can be found online at NPCA's Center for State of the Parks® web site (www.npca.org/stateoftheparks/). Researchers gather available information from a variety of research, monitoring, and background sources in a number of critical cate- gories. The natural resources rating reflects

San Juan Island National Historical P assessment of more than 120 discrete elements associated with environmental quality, biotic health, and ecosystem integrity. Environmental quality and biotic health measures address air, water, soils, and climatic change conditions as well as their influences and human-related influences on plants and animals. Ecosystems measures address the extent, species composi- tion, and interrelationships of organisms with For this report, researchers collected data and each other and the physical environment. prepared a paper that summarized the results. The scores for cultural resources are deter- The draft underwent peer review and was also mined based on the results of indicator ques- reviewed by staff at San Juan Island National tions that reflect the National Park Service's Historical Park. own Cultural Resource Management Guideline NPCA's Center for State of the Parks repre- and other Park Service resource management sents the first time that such assessments have policies. been undertaken for units of the National Park Stewardship capacity refers to the Park System. Comments on the program's methods Service's ability to protect park resources, and are welcome. includes discussion of funding and staffing levels, park planning documents, resource education, and external support. ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

For more information about the NPCA thanks the staff of San Juan Island National Center for State of the Parks® Historical Park who reviewed the factual accuracy of and this and other program reports, contact: the information used in this report. We also thank peer reviewers for their valuable comments and National Parks Conservation Association suggestions. Center for State of the Parks® PO Box 737 CENTER FOR STATE OF THE PARKS® Fort Collins, CO 80522 ADVISORY COUNCIL Phone: 970.493.2545 E-mail: [email protected] Dr. Douglas Schwartz, Chair Or visit us at www.npca.org/stateoftheparks/ The School of American Research National Parks Conservation Association Dr. Dorothy Canter Northwest Regional Office The Johns Hopkins University Sean Smith, Director Phone: 206.903.1444 Dr. Francisco Dallmeier Email: [email protected] Smithsonian Institution Dr. Sylvia Earle Writer: Daniel Saxton National Geographic Explorer-in-Residence Primary researchers: Brennan Garrelts and Erin McPherson Design/Layout: Paul Caputo Michael Finley Turner Foundation Center for State of the Parks Staff: Dr. James Nations, Vice President Henry A. Jordan, M.D. Dr. William Knight, Director Chairman, Glynwood Center Kelly Courkamp, Cultural Resources Program Manager Bruce Judd Dr. Gail Dethloff, Natural Resources Program Manager Architectural Resources Group Elizabeth Meyers, Publications Manager Megan Lassen, Natural Resources Intern Karl Komatsu Erin McPherson, Cultural Resources Intern Komatsu Architecture Dan Saxton, Publications Intern Dr. Thomas Lovejoy H. John Heinz III Center for Science, Economics, Other reports available: Adams National Historical Park (MA), Andersonville and the Environment National Historic Site (GA), Apostle Islands National Lakeshore (WI), Assateague Island National Seashore (MD, VA), Big Bend National Park (TX), Dr. Pamela Matson Big Hole National Battlefield (MT), Big Thicket National Preserve (TX), Stanford University, Ecological Society of America Biscayne National Park (FL), Bryce Canyon National Park (UT), Canyonlands Robert Melnick National Park (UT), Catoctin Mountain Park (MD), Chesapeake and Ohio University of Oregon Canal National Historical Park (DC/MD/WV), Death Valley National Park (CA), Denali National Park and Preserve (AK), Fort Laramie National Historic Site Dr. Kenton Miller (WY), Fort Necessity National Battlefield (PA), Fort Pulaski National World Resources Institute, World Commission on Monument (GA), Fort Union Trading Post National Historic Site (ND), Protected Areas Frederick Douglass National Historic Site (DC), Gateway National Dr. Roger Sayre Recreation Area (NY), Great Smoky Mountains National Park (TN/NC), United States Geological Survey Hopewell Furnace National Historic Site (PA), Indiana Dunes National Lakeshore (IN), Isle Royale National Park (MI), Joshua Tree National Park (CA), Dr. Lee Talbot Keweenaw National Historical Park (MI), Knife River Indian Villages National George Mason University Historic Site (ND), Lewis and Clark National Historical Park (OR), Lewis and Clark National Historic Trail (various), Little Bighorn Battlefield National Monument (MT), Longfellow National Historic Site (MA), Missouri National Recreational River (NE), Mojave National Preserve (CA), Nez Perce National Historical Park (WA, ID, MT, OR), Olympic National Park (WA), Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore (MI), Point Reyes National Seashore (CA), Rocky Mountain National Park (CO), Saint-Gaudens National Historic Site (NH), Shenandoah National Park (VA), Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore (MI), Waterton- Glacier International Peace Park (MT-Alberta), Zion National Park (UT) Please visit www.npca.org/stateoftheparks/ to view these reports and to learn Copyright 2007 more about the Center for State of the Parks®. National Parks Conservation Association 1300 19th Street, N.W., Suite 300 Washington, DC 20036 p/ 202.223.6722 f/ 202.659.0650 www.npca.org

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