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2 3 contents

INTRODUCTION 8

Destinations WESTERN ARUNACHAL n Pakke Tiger Reserve 22 n Western Arunachal 38 —A Birder’s Diary CENTRAL ARUNACHAL n Talley Valley Wildlife Sanctuary, 58 n Yordi Rabe Supse Sanctuary 64 n Shi Yomi District 76 n Nguda Pokcho 86 EASTERN ARUNACHAL n The Dibang Valley 92 n Kamlang Tiger Reserve 96 n Namdapha Tiger Reserve 104

Features n High-Altitude Teas 124 n Lesser-Known Fauna Of 128 Arunachal Pradesh

iNformation n Travel Essentials 138 n Tourist Wildlife Offices 150 n Tour Operators 151 n Adventure Tour Operators 152 n Forest Resthouses 156 n Homestays 158

narendra bisht shutterstock Alamy images / india picture guneet narula w i l d l i f e w i l d l i f e

& &

n a t u r e n a t u r e

Namdapha NP; Himalayan serow; Monpa tribe; great pied hornbill

Introduction you. Wildlife travel in before the concept of ‘tiger ortheast India’s larg- any other state in India; new Arunachal is more of an reserves’ even existed; est, northernmost species are discovered here immersive wilderness expe- exceptional sightings can and greenest state, every year, making it a rience, engaging not just still be had even in private introduction N introduction and one of the world’s Mecca for wildlife enthusi- with animals through a long or community-managed for- greatest biodiversity asts, scientists and research- lens or pair of binoculars, ests, unlike in other parts of hotspots, Arunachal Pradesh ers. Even with such rich but also the forests and trib- India. Like everywhere else, is over 80 per cent forest, mammalian diversity, spot- al cultures that call them times and values are chang- and accounts for a signifi- ting animals, especially the home, than a conventional ing here too. The state’s cant portion of India’s natu- four big cats, tiger, leopard, series of bucket-lists and many impressive parks will ral wealth. With just 2.54 snow leopard and clouded fauna checklists. hopefully take the conserva- per cent of India’s land area, leopard, in these areas can Most forests here have tion tradition into the future; Arunachal has at least 23 be difficult, because of the traditionally been managed for the explorer, these pro- per cent of the country’s denseness of foliage and responsibly by the ancestors tected areas are a great flowering plants, over half of difficulty in reaching core of the local tribes, with strict starting point for some India’s bird species and areas due to rugged terrain. rules against cutting old really wild adventures in the more mammal density than It’s likelier that they will spot trees or killing big cats, way sunrise state.

8 9 shutterstock sanjiv valsan 1. Namdapha Tiger best place in Arunachal. Reserve Elephants and gaur can be Namdapha is the oldest seen in the clearings, and tiger reserve of the state, the evenings ring with the w i l d l i f e w i l d l i f e

and is of the few protected anxious alarm calls of the & &

forests in the world to have skittish Barking Deer. all the four big cats—tiger, common leopard, clouded 3. Kamlang Tiger Reserve n a t u r e n a t u r e leopard and snow leopard— Located in the mystic land- in one place. With an altitu- scape of the Mishmi Hills, dinal range from 200m to An Kamlang is one of the less 4571m above sea level, explored tiger reserves of Namdapha has huge floral 2. Pakke Tiger Reserve the state; there is also the Route to and faunal diversity. Flocks Located in the East Kameng Glaw Lake (Glow Lake) here. of hornbills nesting on fig district, Pakke is one of the The entry is through Wakro 4. Dibang Wildlife trees running into dozens most visitor-friendly wildlife town, famous for its orange Sanctuary, Anini Forest are a common sight. areas of the state and is a orchards and tea gardens. Division part of the forest that con- Relatively unknown previ- introduction Gaur tinues from ’s Nameri Ramsing tea gardens ously, Dibang has been introduction Tiger Reserve, with drawing national attention approaches to the park from with the discovery of 11 Northern, Eastern and tigers in 2018. Dibang Western sides. According to Valley is inhabited by the official records, the tiger Idu Mishmi tribe, who have reserve hosts 103 species of been acknowledged for mammals, 256 species of their traditional conserva- birds, 31 species of tion practices. Access to the amphibians and 45 reptile sanctuary may be through species. For sighting the town of Anini. From lowland mammals, in gener- there on, you’ll need to trek al, Pakke is probably the and camp in tents. shutterstock sanjiv valsan

10 11 Anoko mega Alamy images / india picture 6. Eaglenest Wildlife and Dibrugarh. For Sanctuary, Shergaon accommodation, there’s a This unique area is host to forest rest house at . the Bugun liocichla, a bird w i l d l i f e w i l d l i f e

found nowhere else in the 8. Yordi Rabe Supse & &

world. The sanctuary also Sanctuary, West Siang has other globally threat- Arunachal’s least-known ened species like the red sanctuary is probably its n a t u r e n a t u r e panda, and best-kept secret. With lush the Himalayan Serow. The tropical evergreen river val- sanctuary, accessed through leys towards one end, and the Tenga town, is also Galo tribe mist-covered forests and home to rare butterflies like rugged snow-covered peaks the Ludlow’s Bhutan glory, 7. Kane Wildlife on the other, this huge, pris- Tibetan Brimstone and also Sanctuary, Likabali some rare orchids. It’s a Among the local Galo tribe, Yordi Rabe Supse Sanctuary pleasant two-day detour for Kane is associated with sto- Mehao Lake visitors going to ries of supernatural phe- introduction and . nomena that are said to introduction 5. Mehao Wildlife abound there. The sanctu- Sanctuary, Rufous-breasted accentor ary also has numerous The most convenient way to patches of forest, beautiful experience Mehao Wildlife old trees, which have been sanctuary is the two-day maintained as sacred Mehao Lake trek. The groves by the locals, which approach to the sanctuary is have not seen human pres- through the town of Roing, ence in years. The sanctuary the headquarters of the can be approached from Lower , Likabali, and Silapathar which is less than two hours town is the closest railhead. away from Dibrugarh. The closest airports are at arjun kamdar sanjiv valsan

12 13 Courtesy easter frontier tours & travels tine and untouched forest glory and Brown gorgon, might just turn out to be and researchers say that 12. Daying Ering known as the next big bio- this is the only forest in the Memorial Wildlife diversity hotspot in the world where all the three Sanctuary, Pasighat w i l d l i f e w i l d l i f e

region, once further docu- species can be found in Daying Ering Memorial & &

mentation happens. The the same place. Wildlife Sanctuary, the first outsiders to ever enter Since butterflies are an only protected wildlife this vast jungle conducted indicator species of floral area of the state that is n a t u r e n a t u r e an expedition here as biodiversity, this fact sug- situated on an island, recently as 2018, and the gests that Talley’s ecosys- can be quite interesting first tiger was documented tem is totally unique. for birding enthusiasts. the same month, suddenly Ganga Lake in Surrounded on three putting the sanctuary on the 11. Mouling National sides by the mighty elite ‘high-altitude tiger’ spots left, like Ganga Lake Park and the ‘Dihang Siang River, the sanctu- map, along with the cloud and various riverbanks that Dibang Biosphere ary has the presence of forests of Dibang Valley and are popular picnic and fish- Reserve (DDBR)’ many globally threat- Bhutan. ing spots. is ened grassland birds part of the core area of the such as the black-breast- introduction 9. Itanagar Wildlife 10. Talley Valley Wildlife massive ‘Dihang Dibang ed parrotbill, swamp introduction Sanctuary, Itanagar Sanctuary, Ziro Valley Biosphere Reserve (DDBR)’, prinia and Jerdon’s bab- Surprisingly, there’s an offi- Talley sanctuary is a gem which sprawls over 5,000 bler. This protected area cial sanctuary around that was recently discovered sq km from the Dibang is also part of a larger Itanagar town, with Pam through a collaborative Wildlife Sanctuary to the elephant corridor. Due River in the East, Pachin in effort between the Forest Payum town in Siang dis- to its topography, the South, Neorochi on the Department, scientists and trict. The interiors of the Daying Ering is best Northeast and Chingke community-based organisa- park have not yet been seen by boat. A visit to stream in the North forming tions. Like Namdapha, explored and information D Ering also allows a its boundaries. Urbanisation Talley is famed for its about the interiors of the peek into the rich cultur- pressure has depleted most diversity of butterflies, forest is from the traditional al heritage of the local of the wildlife, but there are including rare varieties such accounts of the local Adi tribe, the Adis. still some peaceful green as the Kaiser-e-hind, Bhutan tribe. The area can current-

14 15 sanjiv valsan guneet narula 13. Kamala Wildlife 15. Lal Aane CR, Arung Sanctuary, CR, Martak Riang Spread over 77 sq km, adja- Community Reserves, cent to the Kamala Reserve w i l d l i f e w i l d l i f e

Forest, Kamala Sanctuary is Community reserves are a & &

located in the newly created recent initiative taken up by . The nearest the forest department for town to reach here is Raga more inclusive management n a t u r e n a t u r e which is about 100km from of the state’s forest wealth, Daporijo. This still-raw sanc- involving the local tribes as tuary is yet to see its first partners in the conservation non-native visitors, and lies process. The Lal Aane, unexplored for the most Arung and Martak Riang A view of Anini part. The closest railhead Elephant in Pakke Tiger Reserve community reserves are for visiting the sanctuary is ly be accessed by travellers . 14. Sessa Orchid Dance of the Nyishi mostly as village treks and Sanctuary cultural experiences, and Scene from Naharlagun market As the name suggests, this introduction local festivals such as one’s for the orchid lovers. introduction Unying Giidi and Solung With some 200 orchid spe- with the local Adi communi- cies, including five new and ties in the park’s fringe areas endemic species and 100 sq through different villages on km of protected area, its periphery. These are Sessa’s forest is connected accessed from town, with a larger protected area in , which is including Eaglenest, Pakke, connected by road to Nameri, and Sonai Rupai Pasighat airport. The closest sanctuaries, forming the railhead is Murkongselek, Kameng Protected Area near the Assamese town Complex (KPAC), which is of Jonai. an elephant reserve. sanjiv valsan Alamy images / india picture

16 17 located near the Sagalee drive away from Dibrugarh, town, , the closest airport. Very few and a three-hour drive from wildlifers or travellers have Itanagar. Along with local been here so far. w i l d l i f e

treks, the reserve offers a & good opportunity to experi- 17. Singchung Bugun ence the culture of the local Village Community Reserve Nyishi tribe. (SBVCR), Shergaon n a t u r e This community reserve was 16. Banfera Longnakshi awarded the prestigious CR, Wanu CR, Longding India Biodiversity Award in The Banfera and Longnakshi 2018 for the conservation community reserves are efforts of the Bugun com- located in the heartland of munity for the rare Bugun the Wancho tribe, closely liocichla, a bird endemic to related to the Konyak tribe the area. SBVCR is adjacent across the border in to Eaglenest, and forms the , as well as tribes core of the larger conserva- introduction across the nearby Myanmar tion area on the lands of the border. Foreign tourists Bugun, the local tribe might require special per- inhabiting the area. mission to enter this border Amalgamating traditional area, if they are allowed at knowledge of the tribe with Wildlife all. The entire area between modern principles of con- Aassam’s Joypur Rainforest servation, the project has In arunachal pradesh to Tirap, Longding and been instrumental in the northern Nagaland is a conservation of the bird. major elephant corridor. The The reserve is accessed community reserve can be through Tenga town, which approached through is well connected to Department of Tourism Longding town, a six-hour and . ■ Govt. of Arunachal Pradesh Itanagar, Arunachal Pradesh, India Phone: +91-360-2214745 | E-mail: [email protected] follow us on Arunachal Tourism @ArunachalTsm 18 p a k k e t i g e r r e s e r v e n a t u r e & w i l d l i f e arunachal western

p a k k e t i g e r r e s e r v e n a t u r e & w i l d l i f e Pakke Tiger Reserve

■ Devathi Parashuram ing and hilly terrain in the w i l d l i f e w i l d l i f e

south and mountainous & &

n evening in Seijosa, ranges in the north. The alti- separated from the tudinal gradient ranges from Pakke Tiger Reserve 100m to 2,000m above sea n a t u r e n a t u r e A by the Pakke River, typically level. The reserve can be involves enjoying a cup of accessed from two points— lal chai as you watch the sun Seijosa on the southern set and wait for wreathed boundary and Tippi on the hornbills to make an western boundary. appearance. Soon enough and from a distance, you Hornbill Haven r e s e r v e r e s e r v e

will hear the whoosh- Hornbills are magnificent whoosh of their wingbeats, birds, often referred to as t i g e r t i g e r

as they fly across the river to ‘farmers of the forest’ roost in large numbers— because of the crucial role p a k k e sometimes over a hun- that they play. By consum- p a k k e dred—on trees in and ing fruits and dispersing the around the villages of seeds far and wide, they Seijosa, on the fringe of the help the forest grow and tiger reserve. It’s an experi- spread, making them vital ence you never grow tired to the health of the ecosys- of, even if you’ve been liv- tem. Pakke is a haven for ing and working here as a hornbills, home to four of conservationist for years. India’s nine species—the Pakke is situated in the foot- largest being the great hills of the Eastern hornbill, followed by the Himalayas with an undulat- wreathed and rufous-necked

22 23 guneet narula hornbills, and the oriental pied hornbill. Apart from sightings of wreathed and oriental pied w i l d l i f e w i l d l i f e

hornbills coming in to roost & &

in the evening, you can expect to see them as well as great hornbills inside the n a t u r e n a t u r e tiger reserve. The globally endangered rufous-necked hornbills are harder to spot, since they are found at higher elevations in the northern parts of the park. A black-crested bulbul (facing page); and a hornbill r e s e r v e r e s e r v e

Conservation Efforts with the Nyishi community the first step by enforcing a nity for conservation, both t i g e r t i g e r

Although hornbills are an ban on hunting of hornbills inside and on the fringe important cultural symbol and other wildlife. Next, the areas of the park. This is p a k k e for many tribes across the local Forest Department also when the Ghora-Aabhe p a k k e Northeast, they are severely and Wildlife Trust of India Society was formed, a local threatened by hunting and started distributing artificial NGO comprising of Gaon habitat loss. Arunachal hornbill beaks to replace Burrahs (village headmen) Pradesh is one of their last the real ones being used in from different villages in strongholds due to higher traditional headgear. Seijosa, who became part- forest cover and lower After the extremely able ners in wildlife conservation, human pressures. Seijosa Tana Tapi took over as conducting awareness cam- has a history of wildlife con- Divisional Forest Officer of paigns and other activities. servation that dates back to Pakke Tiger Reserve in All of these efforts laid 2003, when the dominant 2006, he won greater sup- the ground for the award- Nyishi tribe in the area took port from the local commu- winning Hornbill Nest Saniya Chaplod

24 25 Khem Thapa Adoption Programme trees of hornbills in forests (HNAP), which began in around their villages in 2012 as a partnership Seijosa. Funds raised from between the Nature urban donors who ‘adopt’ w i l d l i f e w i l d l i f e

Conservation Foundation hornbill nests go towards & &

(Mysore), Arunachal Pradesh paying their salaries. There Forest Department and the are currently 11 local Nest Ghora-Aabhe Society. Protectors monitoring and n a t u r e n a t u r e HNAP is a community- protecting 38 hornbill nests. based conservation initia- 119 hornbill chicks have tive, through which local successfully fledged from Nyishi villagers are these nests from 2012 to employed to protect nest 2018. Although illegal log- ging and occasional hunting A binturong do occur, there is hope and The Himalayan palm civet r e s e r v e r e s e r v e

constant effort to minimise these threats. squirrels along branches. motion sensors) set up t i g e r t i g e r

Researchers have been annually in the winter by the Mammals fortunate enough to spot a Forest Department staff p a k k e Pakke is home to a rich binturong not once but have captured elusive ani- p a k k e array of wildlife, although twice during the day, fast mals such as the marbled whether you spot them or asleep on a horizontal cat, clouded leopard, tiger, not boils down to sheer branch (they emit a charac- leopard, melanistic leopard luck. Elephants, sambar, teristic, strong smell similar (or black panther), dhole barking deer, gaur, wild pig to popcorn). I have also wit- (wild dog), jackal, large are commonly encountered nessed a Himalayan palm Indian civet, Himalayan along forest roads and trails. civet asleep in the crook of black bear, yellow-throated Also keep an eye out for a tree during the daytime in marten, otters and more. A capped langurs, rhesus and the Pakke Tiger Reserve. ferret badger was also Assamese macaques in the Camera traps (remotely recorded in Pakke for the canopy and Malayan giant triggered cameras with first time in 2018. Saniya Chaplod

26 27 Wildlife In arunachal pradesh A semi-domesticated bovine, Mithun is special to the tribes of Arunachal! Festivals, food, tradition, economy, Mithun is present in every walk of life here.

Department of Tourism Govt. of Arunachal Pradesh Itanagar, Arunachal Pradesh, India Phone: +91-360-2214745 | E-mail: [email protected] follow us on Arunachal Tourism @ArunachalTsm Tali Nabam Walking along sandy ing the globally endangered riverbanks and dry white-winged wood duck streambeds, you will also and the unique ibisbill. see plenty of animal tracks Birders will be most delight- w i l d l i f e w i l d l i f e

and they sometimes tell ed when mixed-species & &

interesting stories, like the flocks arrive, cacophonously leopard tracks that I once flitting from tree to tree in found, seemingly hot on the forest patches. These flocks n a t u r e n a t u r e heels of a sambar. have a diverse assemblage of species like nuthatches, Birds warblers, flycatchers, etc. Over 350 species of birds with racket-tailed drongos are found in Pakke, includ- as their leader and sentinel. Some of the really inter- Butterfly species of Arunachal esting birds in Pakke include r e s e r v e r e s e r v e

the red-headed trogon, A parrot plays with a flower while another looks on long-tailed broadbill (which t i g e r t i g e r

can also be seen and heard of them coming all the way turtle, and 30 amphibian in the villages), pied fal- to Seijosa with the sole aim species, including the pied p a k k e conet, Asian fairy bluebird, of photographing the pair. warty frog which resembles p a k k e blue-winged siva, and long- bird droppings, have also tailed nightjar. Common Other Wildlife been reported in the park. birds of prey include the Pakke is also home to over Also keep an ear out for crested serpent eagle, 500 species of butterflies the characteristic mating call rufous-bellied eagle, orien- and moths, including rare of the tokay gecko (which tal honey buzzard, and species such as the abor sounds like a loud croak Asian barred owlet. freak, red caliph and paint- and from which it derives its Recently, a pair of Blyth’s ed courtesan. About 36 name), a large and strikingly kingfishers have sent wildlife species of reptiles, including beautiful arboreal species, photographers all over the the and highly which can also sometimes country into a frenzy, many endangered Assam roofed be heard in the villages. Photograph: Saniya Chaplod

30 31 Saniya Chaplod Plants tion. One of them is locally The forest type ranges from known as Bhelu, which semi-evergreen to ever- stands out due to its sheer green with about 350 size and large buttresses, w i l d l i f e w i l d l i f e

recorded species of woody which provide stability to its & &

flowering plants in the lower towering structure. This spe- areas of the park. If you cies is important for horn- consider the entire park, the bills who nest in its natural- n a t u r e n a t u r e expected number of vascu- ly-formed cavities. lar plant species is at least Another hard-to-miss 1,500, with about 500 of tree is Banderdima or the them being woody. hanging ball tree, conspicu- While in the forest, there ous because of its large are certain trees that will spherical fruits that hang in certainly catch your atten- bunches. When ripe, the The dense forests of Pakke Tiger Reserve r e s e r v e r e s e r v e

fruits open up to expose Banderdima fleshy orange-coated seeds, and monkeys, and whose Eaglenest Wildlife t i g e r t i g e r

which attract a lot of large leaves are used to build Sanctuary and Sessa birds like hornbills and roofs in traditional Nyishi Orchid Sanctuary p a k k e imperial pigeons. Outenga houses. Moist areas near About a five-hour drive (115 p a k k e or elephant apple is sought nalas have a profuse growth km) from Tippi is the after by elephants and of bamboo and cane. If you Eaglenest Wildlife humans alike, with its large walk along one, remember Sanctuary, a birding haven, succulent fruits which ripen to also look out for orchids and on the way there, you and fall to the ground. It’s hanging from the branches can pay a visit to the Sessa common to find outenga of other trees. Pakke offers Orchid Sanctuary, part of seeds germinating in piles a spectacular array of differ- the Kameng Protected Area of elephant dung. ent kinds of orchids, with Complex (KPAC), an ele- On steep slopes, you will flowers that can range from phant reserve. Access the see Tokko palms, whose showy and ornamental to sanctuary through Tippi. fruits are fed on by hornbills tiny and inconspicuous. Some orchids flower from Navendu Page

32 33 arjun kamdar September to February semi-evergreen to subtropi- while others from March to cal forests. With around 600 September. So in general, species of birds, its density the orchids of Arunachal is second only to the east- w i l d l i f e w i l d l i f e

Pradesh are in bloom ern slopes of the Andes. & &

throughout the year. The community-based con- Eaglenest, famous for its servation project here is bird diversity, is 218 sq km now run and protected by n a t u r e n a t u r e of forest on the western the local Bugun tribe, boundary of Arunachal, thanks to the efforts of Dr forming a corridor extend- Ramana Athreya and his ing towards Bhutan, with team of conservationists. tropical wet evergreen and Nature Interpretation A dollar bird Centres Snow partridges in the Eaglenest sanctuary r e s e r v e r e s e r v e

Seijosa and Tippi both have Nature Interpretation the park), the Butterflies & Rafting t i g e r t i g e r

Centres which are worth Moths of Pakke Tiger The Kameng River is a checking out. The one in Reserve field guide, T-shirts major tributary of the p a k k e Seijosa is lined with elegant and a whole lot of other Brahmaputra and offers p a k k e posters full of fascinating merchandise. Grade I to IV rapids, ideal information about the flora for amateurs and experts. and fauna of Pakke. The Bird and butterfly walks There are plenty of rafting one in Tippi is more colour- Visitors can go on bird and tours on offer. ful and interactive, ideal for butterfly walks with local younger children. Entry is nature guides (they are Where to stay free and there is merchan- available throughout the dise for sale at both places, year as well; contact Hotels and tourist lodges including the handy Birds of Mr Suresh Pait at are available in Pakke brochure (which lists +91-9402037005 and town, but we would recom- 138 familiar birds found in +91-8416090151). mend staying at the Tippi siddhartha sharma

34 35 guneet narula Forest Rest House, which boasts a scenic location on the banks of the Kameng River. The Bhalukpong Ghat w i l d l i f e w i l d l i f e

anti-poaching camp (where & &

you can also opt to stay) and the western side of the Tiger Reserve can be n a t u r e n a t u r e accessed after crossing over on boat. You can either stay in Seijosa and visit the Tiger Reserve or stay inside the park, for which the following options exist. Khari Forest r e s e r v e r e s e r v e

Rest House, 12 km inside A machan high up in a tree; Wreathed hornbills (facing page) the park, can be reached in t i g e r t i g e r

30 minutes by vehicle or in dry streams which are great below. Contact Mr Tagi 3 hours on foot. You can to explore because of the Heyo (+91-8134864034) for p a k k e opt to stay at the Rest plant diversity along the rates and bookings. p a k k e House or in tents. The tents edges. They are also good are a better option to con- places to spot birds and Electricity: Seijosa is nect with the sights, sounds excellent mud-puddling notorious for unpredictable and fragrances of the forest. sites for butterflies. Lanka power cuts. The Forest Rest For Khari, carry your own Rest House is 14 km away Houses inside Pakke Tiger food rations. from the park and located Reserve have solar-powered The Forest Rest House at on the other side of the lights but no way to charge West Bank is located at the Pakke River in Lanka village, electronic devices. Carry entrance to the Tiger Seijosa, offering some nice power banks or use the Reserve. Sukanala and Jaali birding trails and views of opportunity to go on a nala are nearby seasonally Pakke and the river down digital detox. ■ Saniya Chaplod

36 37 Western Arunachal —a Birder’s diary w i l d l i f e w i l d l i f e

& &

■ Arjun Kamdar fondness for beehives. Though not proven, legend ithin minutes of has it that it leads mammals n a t u r e n a t u r e leaving the hap- like honey-badgers and Whazard Assamese bears to the beehives in town of Tezpur in the south, order to feast on all the the cemented structures squishy grubs that fall out give way to the dense green from the hives when the forest of Nameri Tiger mammals plough through Reserve to the east. Spurred them for honey! by the sightings of black- Almost as soon as you shouldered kites, we began cross over into Arunachal birding scanning the telephone from the sleepy town of birding wires that ran parallel to the Bhalukpong, the dusty, cra- road in the hope of sighting ter-ridden highway is sur- a migratory Amur falcon rounded by a sea of green perched on one of them, comprising vibrant ferns, also stopping every few kil- long-leafed wild bananas, ometres at select streams in palms and moss on both search of the diminutive sides of the road. The occa- Blyth’s kingfisher and scour- sionally flowering bat flower ing the massive rock walls plant (Tacca sp), with its pur- dotted with beehives for the ple-black flowers and long elusive yellow-rumped hon- white whiskers, dots the eyguide, a bird that derives edges, creating an ethereal its name because of its atmosphere, almost as

38 39 arjun kamdar though the road is attempt- signboards that advocate ing to bound the wilder- road safety with their hilari- ness. While crossing the ous couplets like ‘on my innumerable suspension curve, check your nerve’ or w i l d l i f e w i l d l i f e

bridges that rattle and rum- ‘mind your brakes or break & &

ble under the wheels, you your mind’! get a glimpse of the calm- ing turquoise blue of the Eaglenest Wildlife n a t u r e n a t u r e Kameng River that flows Sanctuary through the valley, forming As you veer north towards the peripheral boundary of Eaglenest from the army Pakke Tiger Reserve. The cantonment of Tenga, the road is replete with ‘BRO’ tar road disappears. After (Border Roads Organisation) completing the entry A lone bird of prey at the Eaglenest Wildlife Sanctuary Eaglenest Wildlife Sanctuary procedure at the checkpost the world! Eaglenest shot to birding to the sanctuary with a very fame when a new bird spe- birding informative interpretation cies, the Bugun liocichla centre, you head up the was discovered by an astro- only road towards physicist working in the Lama Camp. sanctuary, who then chris- Stretching along the tened the bird after the western border of Arunachal local Bugun tribe. Drawn by Pradesh, Eaglenest Wildlife the striking images and sto- Sanctuary is revered by ries of the elusive biodiver- wildlife enthusiasts across sity of the region and keen the planet for its biodiversi- on getting a glimpse of this ty; reports suggest that it conservation success story, has one of highest concen- we made our way there in trations of bird species in the November cold. arjun kamdar

40 41 arjun kamdar Eaglenest has an inter- esting political history; when the then-teenaged Dalai Lama was escaping from the w i l d l i f e w i l d l i f e

Chinese invasion of in & &

1959, he traversed this very path and stayed at Lama Camp—now so called in his n a t u r e n a t u r e honour. Further down this road is Khellong where the Dalai Lama is said to have inadvertently planted a tree upside down, but Nature, on understanding intent over action yet grew the bonsum tree—that still stands strong today! birding birding Interestingly, in the Sino- cold blue. In the ravines The spectacular landscape of Eaglenest Wildlife Sanctuary Indian war of 1962, the that lay between this camp Chinese army had proceed- and the snowy mountains, like emeralds in the flash- the embrace of the large, ed to Bompu Camp, a the isolated two-noted call light. On focussing a more lofty boughs. A real surprise memory that the elders of of the mountain scops owl powerful torch in the open- to see such a scarcely-seen the tribe still recollect cracked the air at regular ing of the tree where the animal at such proximity! quite clearly. intervals and once we heard eyes were, we found it to We woke up to the On reaching Lama the cracking of a large bam- be a grey-headed Bhutan peculiar long-drawn call of Camp, a fired-up bukhari boo, probably by an ele- flying squirrel, nonchalantly the stripe-throated yuhina at can provide some relief phant making its way climbing up and down the the crack of dawn the next from the cold wind that through the forest. tree. Seemingly unper- morning, grabbed a cup of seems to come directly from Just a few metres from turbed by the lights, it black tea and began our the Gori-chen range of the camp a pair of green- stared inquisitively at us descent towards Alubadi, Himalayas glistening in the orange eyes were shining knowing that it was safe in where there was a good

42 43 siddhartha sharma chance of sighting the ingthrush that rose and fell critically endangered Bugun in crescendo, much like a liocichla. wave breaking. Our ears The forest trail that we perked up and we started w i l d l i f e w i l d l i f e

walked along was a sort of scanning the undergrowth & &

boundary between the for these birds, as the elu- potato fields of the small sive Bugun liocichla is hamlet on the left and the known to be part of this n a t u r e n a t u r e dense forest, thick with mixed flock. Within minutes undergrowth on our right. we heard the unmistakable While clicking the beautiful melodious whistling call of sibia, we heard the whistling the Bugun; our hearts rac- of the blue-winged laugh- ing, we scanned each movement in the shadows The elusive Bugun liocichla of the bushes until suddenly Chestnut-headed bee eater a male Bugun liocichla offered a fleeting glimpse, local community deeply moulded by the communi- birding hopping from a supple twig involved in the manage- ties’ desire for and partici- birding into the undergrowth. He ment and protection of the pation in conservation. In was soon joined by the park in addition to running addition to conserving the female who cocked her the ecotourism verticals. A birds, the region now pro- head to one side and voluntary community con- tected from human degra- peered at us—offering us servation reserve is also due dations is also home to a less than a second of a to be set up in the coming host of lesser-known fauna glimpse. There are probably months in the Singchung such as the Bompu litter just about 10 breeding pairs village in order to aid the frog, Abor Hills agama, on the entire planet and conservation efforts of the Anderson’s mountain lizard, they are all found only in region. Of all the places in bird-poop frog, horned this tiny sanctuary! Arunachal, Eaglenest is the frogs, flying squirrels, Eaglenest is a conserva- one that has set the path for Bhutan glory butterfly, tion success story with the projects that are driven and Himalayan black bear and aparna krishnan

44 45 sanjiv valsan the Asian golden cat. farms, historically a minia- ture sort of kiwi used to grow here, though most The next stop on the road farms today use global w i l d l i f e w i l d l i f e

were the valley systems in hybrids! While admiring a & &

and around the Dirang river disintegrating with a bustling population painting in the Dirang of redstarts, dippers, sun- dzong; a centuries-old fort n a t u r e n a t u r e birds and tits. While repair- that was used as prison in ing my shoes in the market, the Vietnam War, we met I noticed a huge amount of Tenzing, a local Monpa who kiwis and kiwi wine—this offered to show me around. region is famous for its kiwi While showing us around the sulphur hot springs A pair of black-necked cranes (known as murgapani in the The quaint village of Thembang with its distinctive stone archway local language of the Monpas) we told him that necked crane is considered made almost a thousand birding we were interested in birds, a reincarnation of the 6th years ago. On entering this birding to which he kept trying to Dalai Lama, and hence has picturesque village through tell us about an intelligent, played a crucial role in the the stone archway, one is tall bird that visited during conservation of the ecosys- transported back centuries. the threshing season. He tem; even hydroelectric An old woman using a mor- was referring to the handful power plants that threaten tar to grind dried maize, of black-necked cranes that to destroy the nesting habi- meat drying in the crisp migrate to India via tat of the species have been mountain sun outside bam- Arunachal—ornithologists met with strong resistance. boo houses, soot-covered mention that only about 10 ceilings or hardwood and individuals visit Arunachal Thembang the warm, comforting smell Pradesh, a fraction of their Thembang village is situat- of livestock. One can almost global population of 10,000 ed entirely within a stone see what FM Bailey might individuals. The black- fortress (known as a dzong) have seen over a hundred

46 47 shutterstock years ago while exploring pating families are offered the Tsangpo gorges to map an opportunity to earn. out the region as part of the They have also demarcated Survey of British India. a voluntary community con- w i l d l i f e w i l d l i f e

Within the dzong, one can servation area which spans & &

see the preparations for a huge altitudinal gradient; bangchang in full swing, a housing evergreen rainfor- local alcohol distilled from est species such as the n a t u r e n a t u r e maize quite similar to the marbled cat and clouded potent arrack of the region. leopard to high-altitude The Monpas of the region species such as the snow have collaborated with leopard, and WWF and run homestays on Himalayan serow. a rotational basis; thus ensuring that all the partici- Electric blue grandala A few kilometres east of A resident in Thembang Dirang is Mandala, slope! Unable to believe our catch the sunrise at Sela birding renowned for its rich bird fortune, we stared at each Pass, 4,170m above sea birding and mammal life. Aware of other in disbelief as the level. After crossing paths the fact that we were now serow slowly moved into the with a Himalayan black bear on a sparsely used road, we undergrowth. We went enroute, we reached the looked out for any signs of along to spot a yellow- pass just in time to catch movement while birding in throated marten, offering us the sky turn pink, violet, and around Mandala, only a brief glimpse before orange and finally yellow as particularly keeping an eye shooting up a dry the sun slowly peeked over out for the arboreal red streambed into dense oak the sea of white clouds panda. From a bend in the and rhododendron forests. below us. Birdwatchers from dusty road, we noticed a across the globe bear the Himalayan serow stinging cold of pre-dawn at nonchalantly soaking in the It is worth leaving Dirang in Sela to catch the huge con- sun a few metres down the the middle of the night to gregations of electric blue sanjiv valsan

48 49 sanjiv valsan grandala birds, blood them to be rather bold and pheasants with their crimson unafraid of approaching face and breast patches and humans. green-white plumage, snow w i l d l i f e w i l d l i f e

partridges and snow Jang & &

pigeons and the striking iri- Moving northward towards descent Himalayan monal Jang, crossing frozen water- that resembles an artist’s falls with their sabre-like ici- n a t u r e n a t u r e palette. The Sela lake at the cles and patches of snow pass is considered sacred that lay sheltered from the by many locals and hence rays of the sun, we kept our the birds here remain unmo- eyes peeled for the highly lested by man, leading endangered Arunachal macaque that was Amur falcons described from these areas The rich verdure of Thembang only in 2005. It was chris- tened ‘munzala’ after what ner. Else, it was almost like a respected lama was due birding the Monpas call them, liter- these macaques had to visit soon. birding ally translating into ‘forest embodied the Buddha into While we struggled to dweller’. After hours of their lives, peacefully and catch our breath simply scouring the steep moun- serenely going about their walking at that altitude, a tainsides, we were rewarded business. small cohort of army-men with the sighting of a large A short distance away with their heavy backpacks troupe of munzalas feeding was the Jang monastery and intimidating rifles in a small clearing among where several monks, young almost effortlessly jogged the coniferous trees! These and old, were going about passed us while we could primates were at ease dig- their business in a hurried only stop and be in awe of ging up and eating small manner in their flowing red their resilience! The road is tubers, occasionally squab- and ochre robes. A new dotted with several army bling among themselves in addition to the monastery camps and canteens which their typical macaque-man- was being constructed and provide supplies to not only shutterstock

50 51 siddhartha sharma the army personnel but also said to have single-handed- to locals, passers-by and ly fended off the Chinese by tourists, a godsend in these creating an illusion of there remote areas. being an entire troop with w i l d l i f e w i l d l i f e

him by lobbing grenades & &

Jaswant Garh Memorial from different bunkers. After A few kilometres before more than three days into Jang is the Jaswant Garh this he was said to have n a t u r e n a t u r e Memorial, built to honour been fatally shot. The the bravery and courage Chinese, infuriated on dis- displayed during the 1962 covering that it was a single Sino-Indian war by Jaswant man who had tricked them Singh Rawat, a sepoy from beheaded Jaswant Singh’s the Gurkha regiment. He is body but following the end of the war gave India a The common green magpie stands out with its colourful plumage Corn drying in the open air bronze mast of his head in honour of his bravery. In bathed in soft moonshine, these three districts. Keep birding addition to several military and a sea of dense cumulus an eye out for interesting birding honours, Jaswant Singh clouds that had enveloped Mahayana Buddhist monas- continues to ‘serve’ even us suddenly parted like a teries of the local Monpa after his death and is award- curtain, revealing the star- tribe. Their traditional medi- ed promotions as though he studded sky that resembled cine, social Tibetan-style were still alive! The locals a dew-drenched spider’s culture, performing arts, and the army men posted in web on an early winter ancient stone architecture, the region believe that morning. thangka and monastery art, Jaswant Singh’s spirit pro- weaving and cuisine are tects them as they navigate Cultural Attractions also fascinating. Thembang through the landscape. Take a break from birding and Dirang are particularly On our last night in west- and wildlife from time to fascinating culturally. Dirang ern Arunachal, the gleaming time, and check out the Basti, the old heritage vil- white Himalayan peaks were people and local cultures in lage is the most interesting shutterstock

52 53 dinodia photo library part of Dirang, and worth and Tibetan food in local spending more time. And restaurants for a change. while you’re there, you The Bugun tribe at might as well go to Sangti Eaglenest who have been w i l d l i f e w i l d l i f e

Valley, another birding para- partners in the conservation & &

dise, or drive all the way process, are also a great westwards to Tawang, a cultural exploration break popular spot on the tourist between treks. n a t u r e n a t u r e circuit where you can check Best time: November to out some beautiful old February. Buddhist monasteries, shop Check list: Carry torches for local handicrafts and and binoculars. Photo- sample authentic Monpa graphers using long tele- photo lenses might want to Apatani man weaving a basket keep a second compact An elderly woman manufacturing prayer flags in Tawang camera handy to catch land- scapes and people portraits (9999030436, info@ 8729915566, phuarung@ birding as well. The region can be eaglenestbirding.com) gmail.com). The forest rest birding very cold and windy, and Binanda Hatiborah (94352- house at the entry gate is while winters are normally 71651) organises birding. another option. At dry, it can rain any time You can contact BAC Thembang village, you can after February, and Sela Voyages (8413996568, stay at the community- Pass is snowed over most [email protected]). based tourism homestays of the time, so plan and within the community con- carry clothing and layers Where to stay servation area run by the accordingly. WWF. Mandala has a For birding at Eaglenest, Birding Lodge (Gaurav is Operators stay at Lama Camp and the contact point for this). Gaurav Kataria is an overall Bompu—managed by the Dirang has a range of small good travel operator who local community; you can hotels, homestays and even knows the region very well contact Indi Glow (+91- comfortable resorts. ■ dinodia photo library

54 55 central arunachal Talley Valley Wildlife Sanctuary, Ziro w i l d l i f e w i l d l i f e

& &

■ SANJIV VALSAN discovered here. Talley sanctuary hosted the fifth alley sanctuary is a edition of the Ziro Butterfly n a t u r e n a t u r e gem that was recently Meet, an annual meet of Tdiscovered through a enthusiasts, scientists and collaborative effort between officials, which recorded 171 the Forest Department, species of butterflies during scientists and community- the event itself. based organisations. Like Numerous species of Namdapha, Talley is famed amphibians are also found

for its diversity of butterflies, here; the rare convex- v a l l e y

including rare varieties such vented horned toad as the Kaiser-e-hind, Bhutan (Megophrys pachyproctus) glory and Brown gorgon, was discovered there as t a l l e y and researchers say that this recently as February 2019. is the only forest in the The clouded leopard is a world where all these three star mammal here, found on species can be found in the the higher slopes, though same place. there have also been some Since butterflies are an reports of tiger and snow indicator species of floral leopard spotting. The flora biodiversity, this fact already here is no less glamorous, suggests that Talley’s with orchids and ecosystem is totally unique. rhododendron tours In 2015 a new species, attracting as many visitors Apatani glory, was as do butterflies and birds.

58 59 sanjiv valsan Hikes from where the most Trekking and Camping in popular two-three-day the forest is the best way to Bamboo Trail to Talley via get acquainted with Talley’s Tashi Badang (there are w i l d l i f e w i l d l i f e

birds and undulating basic Forest Dept. dorms at & &

landscape, much of which is these camps) and back nestled between the begins (Route: Hong Village-Pange-Tashi Badang- n a t u r e n a t u r e Subansiri, Sipu and Pange rivers. There’s a forest Talley Valley-Pange-Hong/ guesthouse and dormitory Ziro). The route goes with a kitchen at the base through dense forests, giant camp of Pange (1,700 m), ferns, and eventually crosses the Lebya Pengo pass Rice fields near Talley Valley Wildlife Sanctuary Butterflies at Talley Valley (2,434 m), the highest point of the trek. From here on Best time to visit variety that was discovered v a l l e y the vegetation changes a Winter is the best time for here recently and named v a l l e y

bit and the climb is more trekking for most travellers, after Pange. The forest gentle till the campsite since that’s when leeches department has also t a l l e y near the Talley stream. The are less of an issue, but for developed an easy 2 km t a l l e y walk back can take a more those who dare to come orchid day trail at Pange, leisurely pace, since it’s well-prepared with raincoats where over 100 varieties of mostly downhill. During the and leech-proof socks to orchids bloom throughout winter months (November- brave it all, May (the the year, with the biggest February), a dirt road beginning of the wet lot blooming in autumn and connects Pange with Ziro season) is the most colourful spring. Guided walks are town, which is suitable only flowering season, when also available for visitors in for off-road vehicles, but it most of Talley Valley’s 26 the sanctuary area through gets totally unmotorable species of flamboyant white, the forest department. The during the wet months, pink, yellow and red best season for butterflies is when the only way to reach rhododendrons put on a August-September, when Pange is on foot. show. This includes a new the rare and iconic Kaiser-e- Photographs: Kojmama Taman

60 61 sanjiv valsan w i l d l i f e

& n a t u r e

An Apatani man sitting outside his home

hind and Bhutan glory can in a homestay around Hong

v a l l e y be seen. or Hapoli, and get to know

the local Apatani tribe, Getting there known for their t a l l e y craftsmanship and The sanctuary can be hospitality, and acknow- reached from Ziro, which is ledged by the UNESCO for located at three hours drive their smart, sustainable and from the state capital community-centred Itanagar and six hours from cultivation and fishery Wildlife Dibrugarh. practices. There’s a forest rest The forests around Talley In arunachal pradesh house at about 15 km from were considered a There’s nothing quite as exciting as spotting the hornbill. If you’re the sanctuary’s outskirts at community space by the a birding enthusiast, you don’t have to look elsewhere; head to Hapoli town, which is Apatanis long before the Arunachal to witness the sight of this regal bird! adjacent to Ziro. However, concept of wildlife Department of Tourism it’s more interesting to stay sanctuaries existed. ■ Govt. of Arunachal Pradesh Itanagar, Arunachal Pradesh, India Phone: +91-360-2214745 | E-mail: [email protected] follow us on Arunachal Tourism @ArunachalTsm 62 New Secretariat Building, 1, K. S. Roy Road, 3rd Floor, Kolkata - 700001, Phone : 033-2225 4723/4724/4725/4565| E-Mail : [email protected] Yordi Rabe Supse Sanctuary w i l d l i f e w i l d l i f e

& &

■ Abhinav Kumar hunters who have scaled the snowy peaks inside the park pread over 397 sq km, during the winters and n a t u r e n a t u r e the Yordi Rabe Supse returned to tell the tale. SSanctuary in Arunachal Most of this pristine forest Pradesh’s park still remains totally has an altitudinal range undocumented in terms of from 800 to 3,300 m, and biodiversity, making it the has a diversity of flora and next Mecca for wildlife s a n c t u a r y s a n c t u a r y

fauna that is found in few researchers, naturalists, other protected areas. botanists and conservation s u p s e The sanctuary is named professionals in search of an s u p s e

after three peaks, Yordi, untouched wilderness. r a b e r a b e

Rabe and Supse, which still

lie unexplored, and are very Arunachal’s unknown y o r d i difficult to access most pristine forest y o r d i times of the year, especially This previously low-key during the rains, when the sanctuary was officially rivers gush furiously and the notified in 2007 by the state forests are teeming with the government, but remained dreaded dimdam flies. away from the attention of However, the villages wildlife agencies and around the park are full of researchers. However, things legends, some of which are have started to change still kept alive with lately. A wildlife eyewitness accounts of interpretation centre and

64 65 Photographs by sanjiv Valsan stay facilities from homestays to government rest houses are all in the making. The local residents w i l d l i f e w i l d l i f e

of the fringe villages, & &

wildlife experts and forest department have just recently begun to work n a t u r e n a t u r e together on presenting the park to the outside world. As recently as 2018, a group of conservation enthusiasts and photographers conducted the first s a n c t u a r y s a n c t u a r y

expedition, along with the forest department and a s u p s e team of tribals from Boru s u p s e

Rakshap, one of the fringe r a b e r a b e

villages of the sanctuary.

The pictures in this article near Boru Raksap, saw a Many streams flow inside the sanctuary y o r d i came out of that expedition, tigress with her cubs. He y o r d i and these are the first remembered that just a few in the village now knew that along with her two cubs. photographs to come out of days prior, an expedition tiger documentation was Bomba waited till the last the sanctuary. team had laid camera traps important. Tigers were, of one of them was out of inside the forest looking for course, always known to sight. To prevent the rain First tiger documented big cats and rare birds, and have existed here by the from erasing the pug marks, in 2018 asked the whole village to locals, but there was no he quickly covered them On a rainy May afternoon as remain alert to the presence documentation. with banana leaves, carefully recently as 2018, Bomba of tigers; they were the first The tigress too had seen marked the spot, and Raksap, on his way back outsiders to venture inside him, and like most tigers in brought back a documen- from his orange orchard the sanctuary, so everyone such a situation, ran away tation team from the forest

66 67 department before the rain initiative to locate tigers in could wash it away, the Himalayan landscapes changing the destiny of this of India, Bhutan and Nepal. otherwise unknown w i l d l i f e w i l d l i f e

sanctuary. The evidence of The Galo tribe & &

tigers at the sanctuary has With their rich heritage in since attracted the attention dance and musical of wildlife researchers, and traditions, bamboo craft, n a t u r e n a t u r e the sanctuary has now also weaving, wine making and been included in the High wild food foraging and Altitude Tiger Project, an jungle survival skills, ongoing multi-stakeholder Arunachal’s tribes are often as interesting as the forests Delicious bamboo shoot served they inhabit. The area s a n c t u a r y inside a bamboo stem The ‘community’ of the community forest s a n c t u a r y

around the boundary of the sanctuary is inhabited s u p s e mostly by the friendly and poka (the local charcoal- Liromoba on the eastern s u p s e

cheerful Galo tribe, who filtered rice wine), eat lots of and southern side, r a b e r a b e

believe they are the

meat and smear rice paste respectively. State transport descendents of Abo Tani, on each other. The area buses as well as shuttle y o r d i the father of all mankind; under Yordi is a part of the Sumos are available for y o r d i they are able to trace their folklore of the 22 Galo both the towns from . family tree dozens of settlements surrounding the An all-weather road from generations back without sanctuary. Darak to Boru Raksap is any need for written underway. However, the documents! Around the first How to Reach current two-hour hike on week of April every year, this rough, bumpy road is they celebrate Mopin, their The sanctuary has two entry quite nice for butterfly exceedingly jolly yearly points: from the eastern and enthusiasts, herpers and festival when they sing the southern sides. The birdwatchers, and tractors folksongs, dance, drink closest towns are Darak and can go through with your

68 69 luggage. The walk is full of part of this trek, and walking rare reptiles and micro- is easier overall. In the wet fauna during the rains, and season, the forest looks the light is better here for gorgeous, but walking is w i l d l i f e w i l d l i f e

bird photography than tougher overall; the route & &

inside the denser parts of would be more through the the forest. The hike from thickets, involving some Boru Raksap towards the scrambling and putting up n a t u r e n a t u r e boundary of the sanctuary is with pesky dimdam flies. on foot trails, and it easily Monsoon trekking is, takes more than a day’s hike therefore, only to reach. In the winters, recommended for those you’d end up wading looking for specific species through shallow streams found more during the wet s a n c t u a r y The sanctuary is home to a variety of bird species s a n c t u a r y

and river banks for a big season. Nothing beyond s u p s e Butterflies in the Yordi Rabe Supse Sanctuary three days’ hike has yet the Forest Department or s u p s e

been documented, and by researchers. r a b e r a b e

Researchers wanting to

going in deeper than this is the risky and adventurous join any expeditions to y o r d i lair of experienced and unchartered sections of the y o r d i physically fit wildlife sanctuary that benefit either researchers, rather than the local villages or the regular tourists. overall conservation, anti- From Boru Raksap, a poaching and detour going left about two documentation efforts may kilometres before Darak contact the forest town, at Degi Potom village department directly. It goes there’s another entry to the without saying that you’d sanctuary that hasn’t yet have to be in good physical been explored, either by shape and open to anything Somendra Singh

70 71 in ‘the great unknown’ to Bole takes one through attempt any of this. farmlands that are still Another approach of the cultivated in the traditional sanctuary is from the way through Jhum (slash w i l d l i f e w i l d l i f e

Liromoba town, which lies and burn) to the boundary & &

four hours away from Aalo, of the Maru Jaru Reserve the district headquarter of Forest. West Siang distict. Bole n a t u r e n a t u r e village, which is another half Beyond the sanctuary an hour on the road from Liromoba town, is the last Maru Jaru stands like a motorable point. A two- mammoth green frontier hour picturesque hike from when one approaches it from the plateau that is the s a n c t u a r y Planting a camera for recording Local tribe huts around the Yordi Rabe Supse Sanctuary s a n c t u a r y

last portion till the Jhum (shifting cultivation) lands. s u p s e The forest inside the RF has the tree house on a clear recently, which has become s u p s e

some of the tallest trees to day. The structure built with an important pilgrimage r a b e r a b e

be seen around the area. local materials is an centre for settled in A tree house built by the excellent vantage point for the region. y o r d i villagers and the Forest spotting birds early in the y o r d i Department lies at a half morning. Where to Stay hour distance from the huts, • Bat cave at Larmuk which serve as the base Potom village near the Degi Inspection huts made by the camp for visits inside the Potom village. Forest Department are Reserve Forest and the • Benji Line Temple present at the boundary of sanctuary. (pronounced Benjee the Maru Jaru Reserve The view from the tree Leeney): A legendary Forest. Both Liromoba and house is breathtaking, to temple featuring in local Darak have Government say the least. Liromoba folktales. A temple inspection bungalows town can be seen from up was also built there more where rooms can be

72 73 booked after writing an the only option available for application to the Circle visitors. Tents on hire for a Officers of the respective nominal fee are available at towns. Homestays are the office of the Divisional w i l d l i f e w i l d l i f e

coming up in the villages Forest Officer at Aalo and & &

around the sanctuary with can be obtained by a the help of the Tourism simple application. For Department and should be trekking and camping deep n a t u r e n a t u r e available for visitors from inside the jungle, most winter 2019. There is local guides from the Galo presently no ‘permanent tribe are anyway experts at structure’ inside the building makeshift tents sanctuary, and camping is and bamboo structures within a couple of hours s a n c t u a r y Lunch in bamboo shoots s a n c t u a r y

using just their machetes, locally available bamboo s u p s e and leaves from the forest The locals build a shelter from bamboo s u p s e

itself, so this is always an r a b e r a b e

interesting and practical Yordi is perfect for homestays with families in option for temporary jungle traditional bamboo huts in explorers who place y o r d i stays. The local guides are some villages surrounding aspects such as culture, y o r d i also experts at foraging for the sanctuary, on request. nature and wildlife above edible wild plants in the Accommodation will be other things. forest, so overall, you basic by tourism standards, would need to carry less but for hard core forest Contacts: weight while walking if you lovers, the unexplored • Divisional Forest Officer keep an open mind and opt wilderness along with local Aalo – 791001 for the all-out tribal way in charm will most likely make Ph no: +91-8794646174 the forest. up for the lack of material • District Tourism Officer The forest department comforts available in more Aalo – 791001 can also co-ordinate touristy sanctuaries. Ph no: +91-9436696469 ■

74 75 Shi Yomi district

■ Abhinav Kumar resounds with tales of old w i l d l i f e w i l d l i f e

hunters who claim to have & &

ne of the newly seen some of the rarest carved districts of species to be found the state, Shi Yomi anywhere. Trophies from n a t u r e n a t u r e O derives its name from the previous hunting Yargap Chu or the Shi Yom expeditions are often River, a tributary of the presented to avid listeners Siang River, which later joins to add the touch of the mighty Brahmaputra in authenticity to these stories. Assam. One of the most The black-necked crane sparsely populated areas of (Grus nigricollis), a globally d i s t r i c t

the state, Shi Yomi has been vulnerable species, which known to the outside world breeds in the Tibet and y o m i

through the town of the Ladakh region, was

annual adventure festival discovered in the valley last s h i Adventure@, year by a team of the forest organised by the Tourism department. This makes Department of Arunachal Mechuka the third place in Pradesh. While Mechuka is the state after Sangti Valley becoming prominent, so are and Rupa to host the its vibrant landscape and species in the winters. The unique culture. bird was a visitor to the Ziro Valley in the past as per Wildlife official records but the last The wildlife of Shi Yomi has couple of decades have not not been studied in detail seen a single reported case as yet, but the area of the species there. There

76 77 are studies underway in the district currently, in search for tigers, snow leopard and the red panda, among other w i l d l i f e w i l d l i f e

important species. Both & &

Mechuka and Monigong are parts of the area of study of the prestigious High n a t u r e n a t u r e Altitude Tiger (HAT) Project. Shi Yomi also has twelve high altitude lakes that are good hosts for winter migrants from Tibet and Siberia. The banks of the Yargap Chu have also been d i s t r i c t d i s t r i c t

surveyed recently by the Forest Department, and The stunning plant wealth of Shi Yomi district y o m i y o m i

nine nesting sites have been s h i identified in a 10 km stretch wildlife signs from roots dug which also possibly include s h i around Mechuka town. out by Himalayan bear to Dinoflagellae, the A walk in the coniferous scats of carnivores. Bears bioluminescent planktons, forests around villages like are anyway regularly sighted have not been studied yet Yorko, Dorjiling and all around these parts. and may hold secrets of Lhallung, on the outskirts of The villages of Shi Yomi new species that haven’t Mechuka, is recommended are full of interesting and been discovered. The first for spotting winter perhaps apocryphal tales visitors to successfully migratory birds from the about creatures that glow in photo-document these upper reaches of the the dark and are found secret oddities of the high Himalayas, which arrive in roaming in the night around Himalayas are yet to arrive, big numbers here. The certain lakes. These making this landscape even forests are also full of bioluminescent beings, more of an adventure. Photographs by sanjiv valsan

78 79 Landscape The entire district lies The headquarters of the Shi nestled in the folds of the Yomi district is located at eastern Himalayas and Tato, 120 km-away from the landscape is composed w i l d l i f e w i l d l i f e

Aalo, the headquarters of of rivulets, waterfalls and & &

the West Siang district. Tato high peaks. is a junction from where At an elevation of 1,828 roads diverge for Mechuka m from sea level, Mechuka n a t u r e n a t u r e and to the other major town is a high-altitude valley; of the district: Monigong. arguably the most picturesque in the region. It The alpine scenery of Mechuka was not connected by road until 2003, before which the residents of the valley had to trek from Tato to reach it. d i s t r i c t d i s t r i c t

Essential supplies had to be air dropped by the y o m i y o m i

government, and locals Scenic view on the way from Mechuka to Along s h i carried other supplies on s h i head-loads from Tato to on a lush green livery. The the sky looks perfectly their villages. valley is dissected by azure, the green of the The place was literally hundreds of seasonal valley turns more rufous, the hidden from the outside streams that end up in the peaks are covered in snow world, which has led to the Yargap Chu. Some say and glisten in the rays of cultural diversity being Mechuka looks the most the morning sun: a intact and uncorrupted from beautiful in its monsoon paradise, especially for tired modern influences and avatar, but it’s during the souls seeking inspiration. urbanisation. For most parts months from November to of the year, when rains take February that the region is Tribes hold of the region, the hills dry and the sky is clear. The Shi Yomi is home to a that surround the valley take place takes on a new attire, multitude of tribes. These

80 81 include the Bokar, Ramo dialect roughly translates to and Pailibo tribes who fall ‘a land of snow and under the umbrella of Adi medicinal water,’ and was tribes as per the official earlier known as Baza Tshiri w i l d l i f e w i l d l i f e

records; the Tagin, and the or a holy place; its existence & &

Membas. was known to a select The Memba tribe are group of Tibetan monks. followers of and The Membas, with their n a t u r e n a t u r e reside in the area around Buddhist culinary and Mechuka. The word cultural traditions, stand out Mechuka in the Memba from the other tribes of Shi Yomi who mainly ascribe to A campsite in Mechuka Donyi Poloism and more recently, Christianity. On the other hand, the Bokar tribe d i s t r i c t d i s t r i c t

is resident mainly in the areas around Monigong, y o m i y o m i

which lies about 50 km from s h i Tato. While Mechuka has Running into locals on the Mechuka trek s h i seen some tourist influx in Places to visit recent years due to of the Ramo, Pailibo and adventure enthusiasts Bokar tribes. The Samten Yangcha flocking to the region, The local residents of monastery: Also known as Monigong still has very the villages around the Old , this basic infrastructure. Monigong and Tato depend monastery is believed to be Tato, geographically as strongly on the forest for older than the famous well as culturally, is the their survival. They sell . It is an meeting point of all the supplies ranging from important repository of tribes of Shi Yomi district. firewood to local wild leaves Buddhist literature some of The area around Tato is in the markets of Monigong which has been instrumental surrounded by the villages and Tato for their livelihood. in tracing the origins of the

82 83 tribes of Shi Yomi. the waterfall has become a Gurudwara and Guru popular stop. Treks vary Nanak’s cave: Located from short one-day hikes like around 17 km from the Mechuka La trek near w i l d l i f e

Mechuka town, this is an Dorjiling village to the & important pilgrimage site arduous Damjen La trek, for Sikhs as well as the which requires at least 5 Buddhists of the region days and a lot of grit. n a t u r e who call it the Pema Subu. Some local legends say How to reach that Guru Nanak stayed at The towns of Tato, Mechuka the cave on the way to his and Monigong can be visit to Tibet. Pasang reached from Aalo though Sonam lake: This freshwater private taxis and shared lake is located about 42 km cabs, or through a twice-a- d i s t r i c t

from the town and ahead week chopper service from of Yorlung, the last point till Naharlagun. Aalo is further y o m i

which civilian vehicles are connected to the plains by

s h i allowed, and is an road to Murkongselek (142 enchanting hike and km, 4 hrs), the closest rail paradise for birdwatchers head and to Dibrugarh (256 and nature lovers. Camping km 6.5 hrs) airport/railway is also an option, but station. A regular service of requires permits from the shared Line Sumos as well as Wildlife local administration. state transport buses is Siko Dido Waterfall: available for Aalo from both In arunachal pradesh Located near Hirgo village places. Information about Think hundreds of species of butterflies, think colours! on the main highway to the treks as well as options Now, imagine a butterfly meet! Now, book your tickets Tato and Mechuka. With such as porters and guides to Talley Valley in central Arunachal. Department of Tourism small local eateries having are available with local travel Govt. of Arunachal Pradesh Itanagar, Arunachal Pradesh, India opened up in the place, agencies at Mechuka. ■ Phone: +91-360-2214745 | E-mail: [email protected] follow us on Arunachal Tourism @ArunachalTsm 84 nguda pokcho

■ tajum yomcha & got together to keep the w i l d l i f e w i l d l i f e

sanjiv valsan forest alive, secure their & &

water, promote ecotourism, guda Pokcho is a and discourage hunting and special Community slash-and-burn cultivation. n a t u r e n a t u r e Nforest in Central Arunachal’s Lepa Rada The wildlife district, which has been The community-declared conserved purely by tribal reserve is mostly sub-tropi- initiative. A 16,000-hectare cal evergreen forest, with ‘unofficial’ reserve formed moderate to steep precipi- out of a conglomeration of tous hills, deep valleys and land held by seven villages rippling rivulets. It has some p o k c h o on the fringes of an interesting tapen purungs unexplored forest near (bat caves), hobe-bereks

Basar, Nguda Pokcho is an (homes of macaques), mas- n g u d a interesting experiment in sive waterfalls and all sorts community-based environ- of villages, ranging from tiny mental conservation. The hamlets in the middle of the forest is a watershed area woods to larger, spotlessly for five major rivers— clean ones. There are sever- HIngen, Hipo, Echi, Kidi and al rare and endangered Hei. Considering the plants here, with as many as importance of water 120 species of orchids and security, the local Galo four different species of tribals from these villages, bamboos recorded within a co-ordinated by the NGO short history of primary doc- Gumin Rego Kilaju (GRK), umentation. Preliminary

86 87 Photographs: tajum yomcha data also shows 31 species ers here have also reported on this route that’s said to of mammals, including the seeing the Bugun liochicla, be the property of the jun- threatened Chinese a rare bird previously known gle spirits, known locally as Pangolin and four cat spe- to exist only at Eaglenest. ‘Yapoms,’ and also an w i l d l i f e w i l d l i f e

cies, the clouded leopard, endemic variety of bamboo, & &

marbled cat, common leop- Trekking among other gems. A ard and leopard cat. Also in Walking is the way in. swampy waterbody here is the primary records itself Trekking from Sago village associated in local myths n a t u r e n a t u r e are over 150 species birds, may take at least nine hours with stories of hunters who of which the Blyth’s kingfish- till the Nguda Pokcho peak, didn’t respect the spirits er is a star. In what might origin of the Hingen River; and lost their way. It is come as an even bigger there is an unusual wild therefore, customary to attraction for birders, villag- banana variety that grows hold a ritual for the Yapoms while entering this forest, Nguda Pokcho community forest which will often involve sac-

p o k c h o rificing a chicken for them. p o k c h o

From Pagi-Disi village Nguda Pokcho can be Various bird species found in the n g u d a reached, again in about Nguda Pokcho community forest n g u d a nine hours through some lovely forests. From Piri vil- here know how to build one lage, another route leads to and forage for wild food. If the mythical Hido-Hidi you ask around you’ll be waterfall, another sacred able to buy handicrafts and site (3-4 days’ hike). handlooms directly from the artisans in these villages. The villages Homestays in traditional With some good guides, tribal bamboo longhouses there’s no need to even and homemade food are carry a tent or vegetables, easily available by asking because the Galo people around in the villages. ■ tajum yomcha

88 89 t h e d i b a n g v a l l e y arunachal eastern

t h e d i b a n g v a l l e y The Dibang Valley

■ Arjun Kamdar The majority of the w i l d l i f e w i l d l i f e

population is composed of & &

he region where the the Idu Mishmi tribe who roaring waters of share an incredibly intricate China’s Yarlung relationship with the forests n a t u r e n a t u r e T Tsangpo make a U-turn and and biodiversity of the flow into India as the pre- region, their customs and tributary of the Brahmaputra traditions deeply is the Mishmi Hills of the intertwined with the forests Dibang Valley. This is one of around. The most striking of the last wild frontiers of the their customs is that they

v a l l e y consider the tiger to be planet and is considered the v a l l e y

‘Amazon of the East’. their elder brother and Boasting a huge array of hence are strong d i b a n g wildlife owing to its massive proponents of big-cat d i b a n g

altitudinal range (from 700m conservation and do not t h e to 5,000m), it extends from permit its hunting. Similarly, t h e dense, wet evergreen other large mammals such forests through mixed as the serow, black bear and temperate and verdant Mishmi takin are governed bamboo forests to high by a set of taboos known as alpine and snow grasslands. gehna that restrict the This landscape of dawn-lit number of animals killed. mountains has been a Though it’s incredibly source of fascination for difficult to spot a tiger here, many, with Col Morshead the upper reaches of the and Col F.M. Bailey finally Dibang Wildlife Sanctuary at charting it in 1913. the northernmost tip of the

92 93 shutterstock country also hold the record for being the highest altitude where tigers have been recorded in the w i l d l i f e w i l d l i f e

country, earning them the & &

title of ‘snow tigers’. Interestingly, it has the highest density of wild cats n a t u r e n a t u r e in the country, with seven species being recorded; the tiger, leopard, clouded leopard, marbled cat, golden bay cat, leopard cat and unconfirmed records of v a l l e y

the snow leopard. v a l l e y

What sets Dibang apart from the other wildlife d i b a n g reserves in the country is The Bengal cat in the Dibang Valley d i b a n g

that it has no motorable t h e roads; the only way to visit purposes for a traveller, biodiversity and are t h e the place is to trek through there is no distinction in the recommended for wildlife it. This leads to a very forest and biodiversity and adventure seekers. intimate understanding of within the park and outside. Rafting is also done the forest as one can see Together, they form one of along the river. Those how the landscape, the the largest range of travelling with children can vegetation and the fauna contiguous forests with an opt for rafting along a less change with an increase in equal biodiversity within fierce stretch downstream. altitude towards the Indo- and outside the park. Overnight treks to the Tibetan border. However, Therefore, the treks offered Mehao Lake inside the although a wildlife through community lands sanctuary, for all practical are just as rich in can also be organised. ■ sanjiv valsan

94 95 Kamlang Tiger Reserve

■ Abhinav Kumar on the flora and important w i l d l i f e w i l d l i f e

faunal species, but the & &

amed after the reserve still lies mostly Kamlang River that unexplored. Mammals that flows across the have been spotted in the n a t u r e n a t u r e N reserve, Kamlang Tiger park so far include Reserve is spread across vulnerable species like the approximately 783 sq km sun bear, clouded leopard and is home to some of the and the Assamese important endemic species macaque. Patrolling teams found in the Mishmi Hills. of the forest department r e s e r v e r e s e r v e

Located near the town of have regularly spotted Wakro, Kamlang is one of Mishmi takins and t i g e r t i g e r

the lesser-known wildlife Himalayan serows. areas of Arunachal Pradesh, and was given the status of Birding a Tiger Reserve as recently A marked trail through the k a m l a n g k a m l a n g as March 2017. With the reserve beginning with declaration of Kamlang as a bamboo bridges and a thick tiger reserve, it has become canopy of trees eventually a part of the All-India Tiger follows the course of the Estimation exercise, the Kamlang River. This is a quadrennial census great place to spot some conducted across India to rare bird species. There are document tigers in the wild. watchtowers along the trail This has led to experts from that make a good vantage the census team coming to point for birders. Accessing the place, as well as studies this route and the

96 97 Photographs by Abhinav Kumar watchtowers requires the upper reaches of the park permission of the Forest have alpine vegetation, Department; you’ll need to particularly Daphabhum do this early in the morning. peak, bordering Namdapha w i l d l i f e w i l d l i f e

The banks of the Kamlang Tiger Reserve. & &

River are a good place to spot ‘mud-puddling’ Glow Lake butterflies, which swarm the A six hour long hike span- n a t u r e n a t u r e wet grounds in flocks, ning about 20 kilometres looking for nutrients. The takes one to the Glow Lake, reserve also has a few salt a high-altitude lake spread licks where predator signs across about 150 hectares can readily be seen. The located inside the reserve. This is a good place to spot r e s e r v e r e s e r v e

Bamboo bridge across the river winter migratory birds from Siberia. The name of the Camping in the Kamlang Tiger Reserve t i g e r t i g e r

lake is derived from the Mishmi word for water, and ed. Local guides and por- Lohit River at the nearby it holds special place in the ters can be found once the Parasuram Kund, on one local village myths. The for- forest authorities grant trek- side lie the majestic flood k a m l a n g k a m l a n g est authorities have built a king permissions. They can plains while on the other small rest house, which has be a good source for infor- the mythical cleft in the hills made the hike to the lake mation about the local leg- through which the river far more accessible. Tents ends of the area. enters the plains. The are also available for a fee reserve lies on the way to for those looking for that Nearby attractions Anjaw, the easternmost kind of experience. The sun- district of the state, after rise views are great on a An added attraction is a which Chinese territory clear day and spending the visit to the holy site of begins. A visit to Kamlang night under the stars at the Parasuram Kund. Standing can be further extended to lake is strongly recommend- on the bridge across the visit the towns of

98 99 and Kibithoo, which are many Buddhist monasteries, associated with the 1962 pagodas and festivals, such Sino-Indian War. The drive as the Tibetan new year to Wakro crosses rolling tea celebration of Sangken w i l d l i f e w i l d l i f e

estates in Assam, as well as (April). The Namdapha Tiger & &

the in Reserve, which borders Arunachal Pradesh, with its Kamlang, can also be part n a t u r e n a t u r e porcupine, marked civet, FAUNA common palm civet, Mammals: Stump-tailed Asiatic black bear, sun macaque, clouded bear, yellow-throated leopard, Assamese marten, Chinese pangolin, macaque, leopard cat, dhole, dolden jackal r e s e r v e r e s e r v e

marbled cat, Assam Birds: Grey peacock golden cat, sambar, pheasant, blue whistling t i g e r t i g e r

Himalayan serow, gaur, thrush, scaly thrush, Several butterfly species congregating brush-tailed porcupine, greater necklaced Himalayan crestless laughingthrush of the same trip. The 2–3 one to Wakro town, known day Mehao Lake Trek inside for its oranges and organic k a m l a n g k a m l a n g Clouded leopard the Mehao Wildlife green tea. Tinsukia is the Sanctuary, near Roing town closest major railway station in Lower Dibang Valley, is (140km). Other nearby sta- another potential trip tions include Bargolai extension. (93km), Digboi (94km), Tingrai (95km) and Ledo Getting There (95km). Cheaper shared ‘Line Sumos’, government A four-hour drive from buses and private vehicles Dibrugarh airport, the near- ply between Dibrugarh, shutterstock est one to Kamlang, takes Tinsukia and Wakro.

100 101 When to visit across a Mishmi takin if one is lucky. In the winter (November and February) the forest Stay options w i l d l i f e w i l d l i f e

takes relatively hospitable & &

shape, with the disappear- The sleepy little town of ance of leeches and the Wakro lies in the Mishmi dimdam flies, which can heartland of the Lohit dis- n a t u r e n a t u r e really make hiking unpleas- trict. The PWD Inspection ant in the monsoons. Bungalow located here is an Groups of mithuns (Bos economical and comfortable frontalis) are a common option and rooms are usual- sight during the dry seasons ly available, since the place and one may even come does not have many tour- r e s e r v e r e s e r v e

ists. However, the last few Crossing a makeshift bridge years have seen the emer- t i g e r t i g e r

gence of some private Accommodation in the Kamlang Tiger Reserve resorts like Eco-Resort Wakro who also organise 07468). You can email moc.liamg@yrevoc village visits, riverside pic- [email protected] sidivrup.com k a m l a n g k a m l a n g nics and excursions to the or log on to Kamphai Reserve Forest W www.wakroecoresort.in. Contacts and the Namdapha Tiger Mishmi Retreat is a Divisional Forest Officer Reserve in addition to campside and resort at Kamlang Tiger Reserve Kamlang. Wakro, with four Mishmi tra- Ph no: 08974214193 Eco-Resort Wakro has ditional huts, each with two two VIP Rooms, two dormi- rooms; they can cater to a Range Forest Officer tory rooms (`800–3,500),. maximum group size of 16 Kamlang Range, Contact Akanso Halai people. You can call on Wildlife Colony, (08732019469, 0373-2301120, 2300035, Wakro – 792102 08415895451, 087948- 09435130014, or email: Ph no: 09612461175. ■

102 103 w i l d l i f e w i l d l i f e

■ Sanjiv Valsan Terrain & &

To the north is the Dapha isted as one of the Bum Ridge, a long range of world’s biodiversity high mountains stretching n a t u r e n a t u r e Lhotspots, Namdapha east to west, with National Park, with a core Namdapha’s highest point area of 1,808 sq km, buffer Dapha Bum peak (4,598 m). zone of 177 sq km and an The Ranges are on p a r k altitude range of 150- the Indo-Myanmar border, p a r k

4,500m, is a rare and to the east is a massive combination of tropical, stretch of forest running all temperate and alpine the way to Vijoynagar, after n a t i o n a l n a t i o n a l

vegetation with a floral and which the forest continues wildlife diversity to match. across the border at To put the landscape in Myanmar. Most of the perspective, Namdapha has reserve is mountainous, and n a m d a p h a grasslands and the world’s the remainder is the huge n a m d a p h a northernmost rainforests at catchment area of the Noa- its lower decks, and snow- Dihing (also known as the covered peaks above the Diyun), a tributary of the tree line. It’s one of the few Brahmaputra, fed by snow protected areas in the world melt and rain gathered in with four big cats—the tiger, the vast watershed through leopard, snow leopard and the many streams inside this clouded leopard, and one forest. The dense wilderness of the state’s popular is still relatively continuous wildlife destinations. and unbroken. Combined

104 105 Photographs by sanjiv valsan the slow loris, golden cat, red panda, musk deer, and many others. Namdapha is considered a holy grail for w i l d l i f e w i l d l i f e

birding the world over, with & &

its many rare, endemic and endangered species. It is home to tesias, the peacock n a t u r e n a t u r e pheasant, wren babbler, cochoa, laughing thrush, parrotbill, yuhinas, Blyth’s tragopan, golden eagle, p a r k black eagle, and no less p a r k

than five types of hornbills, and orchid species such as the lady’s slipper, blue n a t i o n a l n a t i o n a l

Several species of birds found in Namdapha National Park vandal, foxtail and dendrobium. with Kamlang Tiger Reserve, strong caress of the wind, it Let’s get this out of the into which the Namdapha feels like being both in the way. Yes, this is a tiger n a m d a p h a forests continue, this is a mountains and on the reserve, but no, you aren’t n a m d a p h a vast continuous beach at the same time, a likely to see a tiger in such a internationally-shared feeling of peace that is dense forest, so if spotting wildlife habitat that’s still better experienced than a tiger quickly is top priority, remarkably intact. Most described. there are better parks in hikes and safaris through mainland India for that. In Namdapha either follow or Biodiversity dense vegetation and hilly crisscross the course of the Of the 135 genera of land terrain, tigers are hard to constantly audible river, mammals recorded in India, spot; but you could always combined with the 85 are found here, including get lucky, and this sense of comforting whisper and endangered species such as mystery is the real

106 107 adventure. For birds, purposes, this is the ‘real reptiles, marine life, entry point’ into Namdapha, amphibians, and butterflies since it’s where most and flora though, marked hikes begin and w i l d l i f e w i l d l i f e

Namdapha is a sighting end, and where the forest & &

paradise like no other. department has its only accommodation for visitors Deban Camp inside the park. Even n a t u r e n a t u r e Deban, the main entry point spending a few days doing to Namdapha, lies on the short birding and butterfly reserve’s western boundary, walks here, enjoying the and for most practical expansive views of the river p a r k and soaking in the sounds p a r k

Wildlife and adventure enthusi- of the river valley can be a asts at Namdapha serene and invigorating experience; you can spot n a t i o n a l n a t i o n a l

lots of birds and arboreal Accommodation inside a hut mammals even here, including hoolock gibbons, Haldibari, Hornbill Camp, raptors like eagles and India’s only ape, whose Bulbulia Ranijheel and Firm hawks calling from the sky n a m d a p h a social calls fill the air every Base, and camping on open and birds and hoolock n a m d a p h a morning, and cartoon-esque white sand river beaches gibbons calling from the Giant Malayan squirrels feed with superb views of snowy trees add to the experience. on trees here, very close to peaks, especially on full- The white-bellied heron is a the tourist huts, seemingly moon nights, is the best star attraction here; many used to some human way to experience the birders return from presence. wonder world of mountains Namdapha with sightings of and river valleys here and over a hundred different Treks, birding, safaris admire the wildlife. Large bird species within this hike Trekking in the 52nd Mile birds like rare cranes, itself. Nocturnal characters direction from Deban via hornbills and soaring can include the big cats, narendra bisht

108 109 slow loris, flying squirrels returning to Deban from and the smaller carnivores Hornbill Camp itself, instead the marbled cat, spotted of proceeding towards 52nd linsang and civets. Mile. Tourists aren’t allowed w i l d l i f e w i l d l i f e

This is a modular route— beyond 52nd Mile without & &

choose either a longer 6–7 special permission. On an day excursion to 52nd Mile average, the distance or Firm Base (for spotting between most points on this n a t u r e n a t u r e both birds and grassland route is 5-7 km. Elephant mammals), or a shortened safaris are possible on this 3–4 day trip (more birds, route till Hornbill Camp. fewer mammals) by Post-Bulbulia, climbs and p a r k descents make it difficult for p a r k

Capped langur an elephant to carry both people and luggage, but they can be used for n a t i o n a l n a t i o n a l

carrying luggage till Firm Base, not till 52nd mile (a Hikers and forest officials cross a river within the park six-hour hike from Firm Base). Camp from Miao town to and meeting and eating n a m d a p h a The walk from Deban to find this spot. Since most of with the Lisu tribe who live n a m d a p h a Gibbon’s Land and back the route is motorable, it’s in forest villages using their (totally 22 km) is a shorter possible to shorten the jungle survival skills, cut off birding option for those walking part considerably. from the world of road who insist on coming to The trek to Vijoynagar access, cell phones and Namdapha on a tight takes things to an cars. Return from Vijoynagar schedule (tip: don’t come altogether higher level, and through the trekking route. here on a tight schedule). can involve an exhausting Head in the Miao direction week of hiking, knee or Slow down and go deep on the dirt road through even waist-deep wading It can also sometimes be a which you entered Deban through streams or muck good idea to just put the Minom Pertin

110 111 camera away, be in the night, when you fall asleep moment and calmly admire to the din of the river and the wildlife, without the early in the morning, when anxiety of having to ‘get’ you wake up to the sounds w i l d l i f e w i l d l i f e

the shot. Putting aside the of bird calls and gibbons. & &

obsessive ‘checklist’ style of There’s also a lot of joy in wildlife tourism can open the stuff that’s easy to spot your mind to Namdapha’s here, like some really old n a t u r e n a t u r e main draw, it’s welcoming trees, the animated ‘feel’ and ‘vibe,’. The expressions on a giant soothing emotions that the Malayan squirrel’s face, as it sights, sounds and smells calculates as assesses the p a r k flying squirrels here can distance between two trees p a r k

evoke, especially late at before making that huge leap; flying squirrels gliding Malayan squirrel beautifully from tree to tree; n a t i o n a l n a t i o n a l

or the human-like A boat ferries tourists across the Noa-Dihing expressions and social interactions between a where you can go for a great views; especially near family of Eastern Hoolock swim in the icy streams. the river banks, of open n a m d a p h a Gibbons—whose feet might Foraging for wild herbs, skies, the Milky Way and n a m d a p h a remind you of your own banana florets and leafy snow peaks in the distance; hands, and vice versa. greens in the forest can also offer unexplored but superb There are also some be interesting for the possibilities for astro- easily accessible but really gastronomically inclined. photography and stargazing magical stream-side spots using a compact with huge boulders on the Stargazing and night sky catadioptric telescope, damaged Miao-Vijoynagar photography especially on moonless Road at 22nd mile and The combination of nights. Get a light tripod, a another one Burma nalla complete absence of wide-aperture ultra-wide further on the broken road, pollution in Namdapha and lens and camera battery

112 113 charger that can be near SBI is definitely worth a powered using USB power visit. Twice every week, banks, because beyond tribes from many villages in Deban there is no electricity. the area, which are w i l d l i f e w i l d l i f e

The weather in the otherwise unconnected by & &

mountains is unpredictable affordable public transport, and it can rain any time. arrive at around 6.00am or 7.00am to sell organic, n a t u r e n a t u r e Around Miao farm-fresh produce and wild vegetables in crowded The local Miao Bazaar share jeep taxis, and return (Fridays and Mondays), in once they have sold p a r k the middle of the town area everything. Market days are p a r k

the only two days in the A butterfly in Namdapha week when more adventurous travellers n a t i o n a l n a t i o n a l

without their own cars can Accommodation in Namdapha do day trips to these villages. is what it is; there is only giant Malayan squirrels and one Namdapha and it is even flying squirrels, n a m d a p h a Accommodation and special, so if you want in, hornbills, sultan tits, and all n a m d a p h a tour operators then that’s that. Among the sorts of bulbuls can come forest department’s very close, and if you’re All forest department accommodation options at quiet, photographing apes, accommodation at Deban is Deban, the basic-but- giant squirrels and birds quite basic. You’ll find that charming traditional should be easy with a relative to the stay facilities bamboo huts are the one to 600mm (35mm full frame offered, Namdapha is not go for. Waking up to the equiv) telephoto lens and a cheap after adding together sight and sounds of the bit of time and patience. the various miscellaneous river is both soothing and There’s a kitchen hut next costs. Whatever the case, it inspiring; hoolock gibbons, door, and they’ll be happy Minom Pertin

114 115 narendra bisht to cook wild vegetables and not worth it, irrespective of local food on request and budget. Electricity is provide hot water in available, but not always all buckets. Bring supplies if day, and there’s no w i l d l i f e w i l d l i f e

you feel like eating some cellphone connectivity in & &

particular meat or Deban or anywhere else vegetables during your stay, inside the reserve, so because all supplies here prepare for some digital n a t u r e n a t u r e need to come from outside detox. the park, so the menu is Phupla Singpho, who has limited. All the other also been operating tours in accommodation options at this neck of the woods for p a r k Deban other than these years, runs Namdapha Tours p a r k

huts are in poor shape, and and treks and a more comfortable quaint resort at A butterfly in Namdapha Miao called Namdapha n a t i o n a l n a t i o n a l

Jungle Camp (Cell: 094362 28763) near the Noa-Dihing A jungle camp in Namdapha National Park River, where many travellers choose to spend the night awareness camps around to either Vijoynagar or Firm n a m d a p h a before directly going Miao and Namdapha, which base direction—it might not n a m d a p h a trekking towards the Firm could be an interesting way have the river views and Base direction, without to explore all that this ambience of the other two spending the night at massive park has on offer options, but with clean Deban. Abor Country, HELP for the inquisitive traveller. doubles starting at `800 Tourism, Jungle Travels (W The Dapha Valley Tourist (biggest rooms cost upto www.jungletravelsindia.com) lodge (9402490430, `1,800), hot water, regularly run treks to Firm 7628873309) at Miao is also wholesome local food, Base, and SEED conducts worth a dekko for spending friendly caretakers and the butterfly tours, photo walks the first and/or last night at most comfortable matt- and environmental Miao, before/after the trek resses you’ll find in

116 117 guneet narula Arunachal, it’s quite a Costs within Namdapha bargain and serious value Birding hike: Approx for money. Bookings in `4,000 per head for a Namdapha generally need w i l d l i f e w i l d l i f e

group of 6–8 people. Four- to be done some 1–2 & &

day programme costs months in advance by email around `25,000 or fax. For booking, exact costs, hiking permission n a t u r e n a t u r e Taxis from Miao to Deban (Namdapha): `2,500–3,000 details, birding and trekking Regular rooms: `270/ programmes, contact AK night (Indians) `470/night Das (9436632806, (foreigners) 9612434463). For general ` p a r k Traditional huts: 470 enquiries and connections p a r k

(Indians) and `870 for Namdapha planning and (foreigners) logistics, contact Japang Dormitories: `120 per bed Pansa (09402045864, Elephants in the Namdapha National Park n a t i o n a l n a t i o n a l

Camping charges: `1,000 08974193313). per night While organising a hike presenting an overall plug- Pansa for assistance with Camera entry fee: `1,000 with the Forest Department and-play cost and package, planning serious treks, per day for long lens will be cheaper (`5,000– everything included. Use longer birding, wildlife hikes n a m d a p h a cameras, `500 for smaller `7,000 per head for a four- the information in this book and scoring camping n a m d a p h a cameras day programme for 6-8 to customise your package equipment locally inside the Car parking charges: `500 people) you’ll probably have and accommodation with Namdapha National Park. per day (Should you bring to do the math, and add up either the Forest He is someone who works your car instead of taking the components to Department or private for the Forest Department, the taxi for `2,500 either determine the actual total operator in an informed and knows all the trails and way) cost. Tour operators will manner, balancing costs birds well. Entry fee: `100 per day, to probably cost a lot more, with convenience, according You will be lucky to get be paid daily (`200 for but reduce your time spent to your needs. If travelling him as a birding guide for foreigners) with the calculator and independently of an he is a true repository of planning logistics, by operator, contact Japang knowledge on the park.

118 119 n a m d a p h a n a t i o n a l p a r k n a t u r e & w i l d l i f e Namdapha is home to rare species of butterflies of species rare to home is Namdapha the and trails Butterfly Ziro are already attracting alreadyare Ziro Talleyand in Pange valley India. in times four only photographed been has butterfly,moth and which flag Zigzag nawab, Stately glory,Kaiser-e-hind,Bhutan the as such beauties elusive and rare the has Namdapha 120 Namdapha Butterfly

any forest–rarebutterflies any of health the of indicator important an are Butterflies India. in butterflies for Shangri-La the this making Talley,than more even species— butterfly 500 to close has Namdapha world; the acrossfrom tourists Meet Minom Pertin damselflies and dragonflies and damselflies point, which at birding, next the even possibly thing; big next the become to set all is touring butterfly that appear would it birders, and enthusiasts passionate researchers,students, of lots attracted which edition, last the by Judging reserve. the inside paths new explore to way great a also It’sbeauties. full-blown into caterpillars from morphosis meta- dramatic and lives private their butterflies, Namdapha’sof universe colourful the into points entry ideal are months, few every held and enthusiasts nature young passionate of group a by run nonprofit a SEED, by organised census) butterfly a as doubles also (which Meet Butterfly Namdapha the . forest healthy a suggests variety greater while plants, uncommon of presence the indicate Butterfly day trails and trails day Butterfly

121

n a m d a p h a n a t i o n a l p a r k n a t u r e & w i l d l i f e n a m d a p h a n a t i o n a l p a r k n a t u r e & w i l d l i f e 122 engage and places beautiful in time more spend to excuse an as ‘activity’ an using and photographed, already you’ve ones the to add to ‘lifer’ big next the for quest hunt, the of thrill the as such common, in draws many have butterflies! next the become could enthusiasts) of community passionate a with niche narrower even (an Butterflies and birding and Butterflies having it sit on your on sit it having finally and shot, perfect that for minutes several for flower to flower from light. travel and often more money,less spend travel lenses, long monstrously without them spot can you accessible; more are butterflies though, birds, Unlike people. minded like- of community well-knit a and forms life other with finger for the first time can time first the for finger Following a butterfly a Following

together,huge in fluttering up gang can that butterflies of differenttypes 50 to up of flutters spectacular for search to courses ideal phobia. insect- or fauna with those and kids for —especially wildlife of world intimidating otherwise the to point changing—it’sentry easy an life- and meditative both be Namdapha’s arestreams is in season. in is plant nectar and host which on depending butterflies, of differentset a brings season year-round,hereevery since catch to new something winter,there’sbut to compared butterflies, for months colourful most the are October to April riverbanks. and sides stream at minerals for puddling’ ‘mud and numbers, ■

123

n a m d a p h a n a t i o n a l p a r k n a t u r e & w i l d l i f e Photographs by sanjiv valsan their high-end bouquet teas that fetched record prices in auctions; like their Oolong, Silver Needles white tea w i l d l i f e w i l d l i f e

(`17,001 per kg) and & &

Golden Needles black tea (which sold for a record `40,000 per kg); managed n a t u r e n a t u r e to actually find the plant growing wild in the forests of East Siang. Soon, they cultivated 500 plants and produced the first six kilos of purple tea to come out t e a s t e a s

of the plant’s indigenous environment in decades; the first 1.2kg of which sold for a l t i t u d e a l t i t u d e - Ramsing Tea Estate `24,501 for a kilo at the - High-Altitude Teas Guwahati Tea Auction h i g h deforestation because of Centre. h i g h ■ Sanjiv Valsan purple-hued tea leaves from large-scale chemical-based Some10,000 purple tea Kenya—actually originated tea estates; ironically the leaves are needed to make ven at `40,000 a kilo, in the forests of Northeast natural environment for wild a single kilo of purple tea. Arunachal’s high-end India, many wondered if tea is more or less extinct, Only about 15 kilos of Eboutique teas are there was a chance of because of excessive tea Purple Tea can be plucked quite the bargain. rediscovering its mother cultivation. But Arunachal at a time. In contrast, 25 When Tocklai Tea plant in the wild areas in Pradesh is another story kilos of non-speciality teas Research Institute revealed these parts. altogether, and surely such as CTC can be plucked a study that found that the Much of tea-producing enough, Manoj Kumar and during an eight-hour shift. highly sought after ‘purple Assam, barring its reserve his team from Donyi Polo The unique reddish-purple tea’—a brew made from forests, has already suffered Tea Estate (DPTE) known for in the tea comes from

124 125 Anthocyanin, a cancer- and treatment—only the fighting flavonoid that’s also buds are to be plucked, and good for the heart and then hand-rolled to give builds immunity. All things them the needle-like shape. w i l d l i f e w i l d l i f e

considered, the price might Originally from Yunnan & &

even be a bargain. province in China, Golden For speciality teas, the Needles is bright golden, plantation cost alone could with mild body, sweet taste n a t u r e n a t u r e go up to `3-3.5 lakh per and sugarcane pulp-like hectare. Plucking just 100 aroma. It is the Rolls Royce grams of buds branded among chais, and this is the under the ‘Golden Needles’ only tea estate in India that black tea label can take grows it. ‘Silver Needles,’ around eight hours. It their high-end boutique t e a s t e a s

requires special technique white tea, has a greater concentration of A soothing cuppa of tea Dried tea leaves polyphenols than even a l t i t u d e a l t i t u d e - green tea, making it the remote wild area that enjoys tea all over India, the DPTE - strongest cancer-fighting all the wild goodness from has chosen the quality-over- h i g h tea of all. the glacier-fed Siang River quantity route for tea, which h i g h Terrain, natural factors and the wilderness at is literally paying off, and and technique need to Mouling National Park at set the trend for a string of perfectly align for high-end Ramsing, Northern new organic tea gardens all organic boutique teas to Arunachal Pradesh, which is over the state. achieve the kind of flavours the core area of the Dihang- Prices could easily rise that can fetch such prices at Dibang Biosphere Reserve. even further, so now’s the auctions. The DPTE has Rather than looking at time to pick up some gardens in the quaint producing tea as a cash boutique teas grown in the hamlet of Oyan, near the crop for the mass market forests of Arunachal Pradesh town of Pasighat and and ruining valuable forests, while they’re still relatively Ramsing, an even more which has been the story of ‘cheap!’ ■

126 127 snake in the world to possess both defenses! The snake gets its poison from the toxic toads that it feeds w i l d l i f e w i l d l i f e

off and sequesters the & &

toxins near its neck- releasing them when threatened. n a t u r e n a t u r e Where and when to find them: Largely found in the plains and lowlands of the montane forests. They are active during the warm months starting from late f a u n a f a u n a

February up till end

shutterstock October. The red-necked keelback Habitat: They are commonly k n o w n k n o w n - the victim. Fun fact: seen in tea estates and near - theoretically, you can drink shallow waterbodies, such l e s s e r Lesser-Known Fauna Of venom with no as seasonal streams and l e s s e r Arunachal Pradesh consequences as long as irrigated farms. you do not have any cuts ■ Arjun Kamdar & Soham Mukherjee through your entire 2. Bird poop frogs digestive tract as venom is a How can looking like shit 1. Red-necked keelback that is, their venom needs complex protein that is ever be beneficial? These Although the words to be injected into the broken down—however, do frogs have taken the term ‘venomous’ is colloquially victim for it to take effect NOT try this at home as camouflage to the next interchanged with whereas poison needs there could be internal cuts level by disguising them- ‘poisonous’—they are two to be ingested, that is, that you are not aware of! selves as bird poop, thereby very distinct phenomena. consumed or absorbed The super-cool red- avoiding the watchful eye of Most snakes are venomous, through the skin to affect necked keelback is the only predators and

128 129 researcher Sanjay Sondhi in 2011. These blue-eyed beauties can be heard calling w i l d l i f e w i l d l i f e

along streams post & & shutterstock

dusk and are rather docile, not skittering away n a t u r e n a t u r e like other frogs on being disturbed. Where and when to Asian bird poop frog find them: Exclusively in Eaglenest Wildlife Sanctuary simultaneously appearing Habitat: Along streams in f a u n a f a u n a

harmless to their prey! leaf litter and under rotting Where and when to find logs. Kaulback’s lance-headed pit viper them: Lower Dibang Valley, k n o w n k n w o n - West Kameng in elevations Bompu litter frog 4. Kaulback’s lance- them: Found at elevations - between 500 and 1,000m. headed pit viper of around 1,200 to 1,500 m, l e s s e r Habitat: Wet evergreen This is one of the longest currently known to be l e s s e r forests with a thick canopy; pit vipers in the country, reported from Sango village on mossy, rocky areas. growing to a length of five in Papum Pare district of Often found breeding in feet. Though considered Arunachal Pradesh. They are tree-crevices. ground-dwelling, they are the most active pre- often found high up in monsoon and during 3. Bompu litter frog trees, probably in search of monsoons, starting from The mesmerising blue eyes prey. Known as the ‘barta’ March to August. of the Bompu litter frog by the Nyishi tribe, it Habitat: Dense montane scurrying in the leaf litter of surfaces often in local forests, often seen near Eaglenest Wildlife Sanctuary folklore and is feared. Jhum cultivation lands caught the attention of within these forests. Well- AVISHKAR MUNJE Where and when to find

130 131 planned forest trails may eyes that help detect its offer a better chance of prey with great accuracy. sighting this species. Where and when to find them: They are common in w i l d l i f e w i l d l i f e

5. Medo pit viper low elevation valley forests & &

With two rows of white and at around 800-900 m in ruby-red scales running central Arunachal Pradesh. along the length of the They remain active from n a t u r e n a t u r e emerald green of this snake, February to end of October. it is unarguably one of the Habitat: They prefer low most strikingly beautiful canopy vegetation near snakes in the Subcontinent. streams, often seen coiled They possess special heat- up on overhanging branches sensitive pits below their over shallow streams. f a u n a f a u n a

Medo pit viper SOHAM MUKHERJEE Hammerhead worm k n o w n k n w o n - - 6. Hammerhead worm proceed to invert their food- l e s s e r Though biologically pipes out of their body and l e s s e r speaking these are not suck up the now-liquified worms but rather planarians, prey. Even more fascinating they are considered one of is that these are all-female the most voracious species; that is, they do not predators of the spineless require a male to world. They possess a very reproduce. At times, even peculiar feeding habit, reproducing by dropping off where they cover their prey a part of its body that then (earthworms and the like) grows into a full organism! with sticky fluids and Where and when to find digestive juices and then them: All over Arunachal

132 133 Pradesh from February to in the state. Folklore says October. that on consuming an Habitat: Moist areas such as excess of these and getting in leaf litter. intoxicated, the patient w i l d l i f e w i l d l i f e

believes himself to be a & &

7. The pentatomid stink bug; attempting to stink bug crawl under rocks, fly, and Also called ‘gandhipuk’ or pass through small holes! n a t u r e n a t u r e ‘tari’ locally, these stink Where and when to find bugs are occasionally eaten them: All over Arunachal

Stink bug f a u n a f a u n a

SOHAM MUKHERJEE The Japalura mountain lizard k n o w n k n o w n - - Pradesh; active in the months which had not been l e s s e r of October to December sighted for several l e s s e r when the are presumed to decades until a specimen be flying from their winter to was found in Mehao summer habitats. Wildlife Sanctuary in the Habitat: Under rocks along Mishmi Hills. riverbeds in the winter. Where and when to find them: In mid-elevation 8. The Mountain forests between 800 and Japalura 2,500 m, generally away Some species of these from human habitation. lizards are highly cryptic, Habitat: On tree barks and such as Sagittifer’s Japalura undergrowth. shutterstock

134 135 w i l d l i f e

&

n a t u r e f a u n a k n o w n -

The ‘crying’ keelback l e s s e r 9. The ‘crying’ keelback Where and when to find This is the most recent them: Currently known to addition to the scientific have been reported only Wildlife knowledge of reptiles of from Basar, in the West Arunachal Pradesh, Siang district. In arunachal pradesh highlighting the uniqueness Habitat: Like other keelback Witness the magnificence of the Marbeled cat of the Basar region. It is snakes, this species is found in the Pakke Tiger Reserves! known as the ‘crying’ near flooded rice fields, keelback due to the distinct streams and water bodies mark below the eye of the preying upon frogs, Department of Tourism snake reminiscent of a tear. tadpoles and fish. ■ Govt. of Arunachal Pradesh Itanagar, Arunachal Pradesh, India Phone: +91-360-2214745 | E-mail: [email protected] follow us on Arunachal Tourism @ArunachalTsm 136 travel essentials common language, since without a accommodation by a genuinely common tongue, none of these tribes hospitable tribal person you just met, THE PLACE Bhutan, China/ Tibet and Myanmar, would have been able to understand who refuses to accept money for it Arunachal Pradesh is over 81% forest along with a long history of exchange each other’s languages. English is also since it is against his culture and ethos w i l d l i f e w i l d l i f e

– these include tropical, sub tropical, and migrations from each of these spoken in towns, since it’s the medium to charge for food or stay. So it helps & &

pine forests, temperate forests and places, and as far away as present-day of education. In Eastern Arunachal, to have a bunch of nice gifts ready in alpine forests, along with several sub- Mongolia. Officially, there are 26 major some Assamese is also spoken. Since your bag to give away in such types. It is one of the world’s most tribes with over 100 ‘sub-tribes’ and there are so many tribes here, tribal situations; these will be happily n a t u r e n a t u r e unexplored biodiversity hotspots. dozens of languages, but in reality the festivals feature almost year-round, and accepted, and can sometimes go Climate varies with elevation (wide diversity is even more than these make for good bookmarks to plan an much better with the culture, unlike range between 50-7,000 mts msl), numbers suggest. Culturally and itinerary. Animist festivals, rituals and money. Alternatively, one could also ranging from humid subtropical, to geographically the state’s ethnics weddings almost invariably involve a buy handicrafts from them, since temperate, and cold, alpine at highest groups can be divided into some publicly visible animal sacrifice (it will nearly every woman in the villages is a elevations, where it can snow during broad categories – the Indo-Tibetan be eaten subsequently); the faint- textile weaver here, and most older winters. It experiences heavy rainfall of Mahayana Buddhist tribes such as the hearted might want to take note in men are adept at bamboo craft. In any 2000-4100mm annually. Rains begin Monpas, Sherdukpen, Brokpas and advance. Elderly people are highly case in some tribes, when you visit any e s s e n t i a l s e s s e n t i a l s

around February, but it’s most intense Membas; the animist Mishmi tribes respected in tribal societies, and senior old villager’s home, it is often between April and October. Most like the Idu Mishmis, Digaru Mishmis citizens have a good life compared to customary to bring small gifts in kind travellers plan their trip during the dry and Miju Mishmis; the ‘Tani Tribes,’ their urban counterparts. such as tea leaves, coffee, dry fish, dry t r a v e l t r a v e l winter months for obvious reasons, but such as the Nyishis, Apatanis, Galos, meat, etc; so it’s best to prepare flora tourism is year-round, since Tagins and various Adi tribes; and the Hospitality accordingly. At the end of your trip, if different species have different Theravada Buddhists like the The tribals of Arunachal are a warm, you have any extra gifts left, you could flowering seasons. Butterfly tours will Khamptis, Singphos; and the Indo- friendly, generous and cheerful lot, and give them to villagers away anyway obviously follow a similar pattern since Burmese tribes close to the Myanmar in general homestays are far more just to make people happy, leading to butterfly diversity follows flower border like the Tangsa tribes, Nocte interesting than hotels. Tourism is still new bonds, friendships and cultural diversity. groups and Wanchos, who share raw, infrastructure is just about coming exchange. cultural and ethnic similarities with up and creature comforts might not THE PEOPLE tribes in Nagaland and Myanmar. The always be possible in many places, but Safety To put the state’s diversity in major religions are Buddhism, this is all part of the adventure. You In general, this is a safer state for perspective, Arunachal Pradesh shares Christianity and various ethnic might even encounter situations where travellers (solo female travellers borders with Assam, Nagaland, animistic faiths. Hindi is used as a you will be offered food and homestay included) than many parts of India, and

138 139 robberies are extremely rare, especially Arunachal. These can be incredibly Guwahati airport and Ulubari, which is Getting in and out of Naharlagun in smaller towns and rural areas, and convenient, save lots of time and near the railway station in downtown railway station using public transport provided you exercise basic present great value for money; but Guwahati. Smartphone app-based all can be a confusing affair, especially for commonsense, it’s generally safe to safety and last-minute flight taxi services such as Ola and Uber are those catching early morning trains w i l d l i f e w i l d l i f e

trust in the hospitality of locals you cancellations can be a concern during otherwise the cheapest and most from Naharlagun. At the Itanagar end & &

might meet. However, days typically rough weather. Additionally, you could reliable means to move around of things, the government-run APST begin and end early here, and streets suddenly find that your booking stands Guwahati town till you make your bus service has a bus service running and lanes in bazaar areas of small cancelled due an emergency medical onward journey. to and from Naharlagun railway station n a t u r e n a t u r e towns are deserted late at night, so it’s case requiring quick transport. All and Itanagar/Naharlagun town, probably best not to pursue an things considered, it’s tricky to plan TRAINS coinciding with the departure and overactive nocturnal life in such areas. tight schedules relying on the chopper The most useful railways stations are arrival of major trains, but these are Villages are extremely safe, though. services during your return journey, Naharlagun (near the capital Itanagar), easier to reach from Naharlagun Dress code: moderately modest. when you have a flight already booked Silapathar, Jonai, Harmuti Jn. and railway station to Itanagar/Naharlagun that you absolutely don’t want to miss. Murkingselek (all on the same line in town than the other way around. GETTING THERE AND In our experience, here’s the smart way Assam) on one end; and Tinsukia and These ‘feeder service’ buses leave AROUND to use the choppers: Book your trip Dibruhgarh (Assam). Guwahati in downtown very shortly after the arrival e s s e n t i a l s e s s e n t i a l s

into Arunachal from Guwahati or Assam is also a useful interchange of each train, so get off the train AIRPORTS AND HELICOPTERS Mohanbari airport and some part of station, since it has a major airport and quickly if you need to catch them. The airports are Pasighat (weekly the onward journey by chopper, along connects Naharlagun, Tinsukia and Taxis are generally available at the t r a v e l t r a v e l flights from Kolkata), (to be fully with a ‘Plan B’ road plan, in case the Dibrugarh to most parts of India. Be railway station as well. functional soon), Guwahati chopper is cancelled; but be sure to warned that train travel to Arunachal (International, Assam), Dibrugarh/ plan your return trip back to the Pradesh is for strictly long haulers; The LOCAL PUBLIC TRANSPORT Mohanbari (Domestic, Assam - useful airport entirely by road to be on the fastest train from Delhi to Itanagar, for There’s a whole biodiversity in these for southern and eastern Arunachal), safe side. During rainy or stormy example takes close to 36 hours. category, ranging from the cheaper Lilabari (Domestic, Assam - closest to weather, avoid chopper rides involving Having said this, the trains on this state-run APST state buses, to private Itanagar), Tezpur (Assam, domestic, higher altitude mountains altogether. route are cleaner and better bus operators such as Network, and better for Western Arunachal). Regular Regular, comfortable, pay-per-seat maintained than the average Indian budget-friendly ‘Line Sumos,’ which helicopter services (operated by share taxis ply between Guwahati standard, especially the Rajdhani and are basically cramped share SUV taxis SkyOne) connect Mohanbari/Dibrugarh Airport and Itanagar, and reasonably intercity express trains from plying between different towns and and Itanagar (via its twin city priced air conditioned buses leave Naharlagun, and reservations aren’t villages, with a medley of Bollywood Naharlagun) to a few headquarters in every half hour or so between difficult to get, even last minute. songs sometimes playing nonstop

140 141 along the route. Line taxis penetrate basically share-taxis that ply along the to adventurous, off-roader style almost unheard of in these parts; so if deeper into Arunachal than the other long arterial road covering the length rollercoaster experiences. Don’t be you’re planning on cycling, either get modes, and reach fast as well. Booking of both Itanagar and Naharlagun, and fooled by linear distances between your own, rent a bike from Assam or more than one seat per traveller (2 or on to and the Banderdewa two points the map — negotiating get your tour operator to make the w i l d l i f e w i l d l i f e

3 seats) could still work out cheaper Gate, forming the border with Assam. rough, zigzaggy mountain roads can arrangements. & &

than hiring your own car, let you At night, even these services stop, and account for biggest component of control the music (!) and can often be the rickshaws nearly triple their rates. travel time in Arunachal, especially if ATMs, cash, Communication, Internet: a more acceptable compromise Even later into the night (post 9pm) you’re planning several regions of this Be sure to stock up on cash, because n a t u r e n a t u r e between cost and comfort when you you will often find no transport at all, large state on the same trip. It’s always in many interior places you’d want to don’t have your own car. Or better yet, at any price! So it’s best to have a car a good idea to enquire not just about visit, credit card payment isn’t if travelling in a big group, hire the in Itanagar, especially if you plan to distances, but also road conditions, possible, and ATMs are also known to whole vehicle by booking all 10 seats, return to your room late at night. while charting out your routes. It rains run out of cash intermittently. Most which can oddly still work out cheaper Towns like Roing in Lower Dibang here for nearly nine months of the urban and semi-urban and village than ‘hiring a car.’ Safety-wise, this can Valley , however have more reasonably year, so this is worth keeping in mind, areas have cellphone coverage, but be a particularly smart choice on tricky priced and reliable auto-rickshaws, so especially if you’re cycling or the operator may vary, so carrying dual routes and difficult mountain roads, local public transport varies greatly motorbiking. Road conditions are best SIM phones or multiple phones is e s s e n t i a l s e s s e n t i a l s

where the Line Sumo driver who does from town to town. By and large, it’s in the dry season (Oct-Feb), when road advisable if connectivity is vital during a certain route daily would know the best to have your own vehicle, should travel times are a lot faster. your stay. You can be sure however, terrain better than someone who’s less you choose to travel without an Regular Indian driving licenses are that many of the most beautiful forests t r a v e l t r a v e l familiar with the place. Most towns operator who arranges everything for valid in Arunachal, but try and avoid in Arunachal will not have mobile have a bazaar area, where you’ll find you. Whatever the case, rush hour negotiating rough mountain roads in coverage, so prepare accordingly. For the ‘counter’ where you can enquire traffic in Itanagar is real, and you want foggy or stormy weather at night; in internet, you’ll have to depend on about bus and Line taxi services, and to avoid being in it. some instances travel on this routes your cellphone and hotspots most of even hire private cars. Bookings can may be officially closed during this the time. A power bank can also be subsequently happen even over the ROAD TRAVEL time to ensure that mishaps are handy during power cuts, especially in phone, and payment is strictly cash Driving into Arunachal always involves avoided; it’s safest to either wait till the remote areas. India Post’s ‘Speed Post’ only. crossing Assam, where the roads are light or weather clears up, or get a service interestingly works better in much better, but once you enter hilly person who’s familiar with the area to Arunachal Pradesh than most parts of Itanagar town has expensive three- terrain, the story changes. Mountain drive. Arunachal Pradesh may be a India, and can be useful in smaller wheeler ‘auto-rickshaws’ and cheap road conditions in Arunachal can vary mountain biking paradise, but towns and villages, where private ‘Trackers’ and ‘Tempos,’ which are from buttery smooth and comfortable spontaneously renting bicycles is courier companies don’t operate.

142 143 PERMITS AND BORDERS community-managed or private 3. Office of Deputy Resident villages and towns, and above that the property, so avoid fishing, harvesting Commissioner, Arunachal Bhawan, Divisional Commissioner (DC). It helps Arunachal Pradesh lies on India’s from orchards or farms excessive Kolkata and Guwahati. to decide on the districts you are likely border with Bhutan, China/Tibet and foraging without permission. In the 4. Department of Home, Government to visit while planning your trip itself, w i l d l i f e w i l d l i f e

Myanmar, but for the moment, tourists Nocte and Wancho tribal villages of of Arunachal Pradesh, Itanagar. because the ILP is generally issued only & &

aren’t allowed to cross over into these Tirap and Longding, it’s generally a 5. Department of Tourism, a few districts at a time, and often not countries from Arunachal via these good idea as an outsider to meet the Government of Arunachal Pradesh, valid if you cross over to another borders, either with or without the local king or chief as a courtesy visit, Itanagar. district which isn’t on your ILP, making n a t u r e n a t u r e relevant visas. Indians and Myanmar and in his absence, the village spontaneous travel complicated for citizens are occasionally allowed to ‘Gambura.’ In other tribes, having any PAPs aren’t issued to tourists in certain first-timers. To renew, extend your ILP cross the near local contact from the village will do. sensitive border areas such as some or add a different district on your pass, , in District for a These meetings can be useful parts of Changlang, Tirap, Longding if you don’t choose the online route for day, but lately, this passage has been icebreakers and set the tone for some districts. Check if where you want to whatever reason (such as temporarily opened to the general public good interactions. travel in Arunachal is a no-go zone for not having internet or electricity), you’d somewhat less consistently. tourists. Researchers, scientists, etc need to submit a written application to Travel Permits for Foreign might be able to travel to these parts, the local DC or ADC. These offices are e s s e n t i a l s e s s e n t i a l s

Entering reserve forest areas and Travellers however in special cases, provided they of course, closed on public holidays. militarily or politically sensitive Foreign tourists in groups of 2 or have received a local invitation and Keep passport-sized photographs and border areas might require special more (single for travel to Tawang have proper projects in these places. photocopies of your ID handy t r a v e l t r a v e l permission from the concerned and Ziro) need to apply for a authorities, such as the local Forest Protected Areas Permit (PAP), which Travel Permits for IndianTravellers Apply for ILPs online here: Range office, army authorities, DC, costs US$30 (valid for 30 days). You’d Though an Inner Line Permit (ILP) is www.arunachalilp.com ADC, etc. In general, additional need to apply for these through local mandatory for Indian citizens to enter permissions from local authorities are tour operators. Arunachal Pradesh, getting it is a Hardcopy ILP applications are also required for sport angling or river simpler process than it is for foreigners, received and issued by the rafting, which your tour operator PAP is issued from the following offices and with fewer restricted areas. Every following offices will manage. Foreigners aren’t allowed to foreign travellers: district in Arunachal Pradesh has a 1. Delhi to enter certain border areas of 1. Ministry of Home Affairs, similar administrative structure. Above The Resident Commissioner, Govt. of Arunachal Pradesh. Unlike in other Government of India, New Delhi the village and local authorities are Arunachal Pradesh,Kautilya Marg, parts of India, most forests and water 2. Office of Resident Commissioner, Circle Officers, Additional Divisional Chanakyapuri, New Delhi. bodies in tribal areas are either Arunachal Bhawan, New Delhi Commissioners (ADC) in the bigger Tel: 011-23013915

144 145 2. Kolkata nagar, Tezpur,Assam - 03712-260173 International Airport AIRLINE OFFICES The Deputy Resident Commissioner, Tel 03712-260173, 260141 Airport Director Tel 0361-2841909 AIR INDIA Govt. of Arunachal Pradesh, CE-109, Cell 09435521735 W aai.aero Toll Free 18602331407 W airindia.in Sector-1, Salt Lake City, Kolkata. 6. Dibrugarh AIRLINE OFFICES w i l d l i f e w i l d l i f e

Tel 033-23341243, 23589865 The Deputy Resident Commissioner, AIR INDIA INDIGO & &

Cell 09830822512 Govt. of Arunachal Pradesh, Toll Free 18602331407 W airindia.in Tel: 0124-6173838 3. Guwahati Mohanbari, Dibrugarh, Assam Cell 09910383838 The Deputy Resident Commissioner, Tel 0373- 2382560/2382738. ALLIANCE AIR W goindigo.in n a t u r e n a t u r e Govt. of Arunachal Pradesh, GS Road 7. From the office of all the Deputy Toll Free 18602331407 Rukminigaon opposite Manasa Mandir, Commissioners of 25 Districts of W airindia.in/alliance-air SPICEJET , Guwahati the state. Cell 09871803333 Tel 0361-2229506 GO AIR W spicejet.com Cell 7086026788 PERMITS ON ARRIVAL Customer Care: 022-62732111 4. Toll Free: 18602100999 W goair.in LILABARI AIRPORT The Deputy Resident Commissioner, Tourist ILP facilitation centres are Origin Bagdogra, Delhi, Kolkata North Lakhimpur, Assam Govt. of Arunachal Pradesh, at the following places: W aai.aero e s s e n t i a l s e s s e n t i a l s

Meghalaya, Shilllong. Tel 0364- 1. Naharlagun railway station INDIGO AIRLINE OFFICES 2224247, 2506470 2. Gumto railway station Tel: 0124-6173838 Cell 09910383838 ALLIANCE AIR 5. Tezpur 3. Guwahati Asom Paryatan Bhawan near W goindigo.in Toll Free 18602331407 t r a v e l t r a v e l The Deputy Resident Commissioner, Nepali Mandir and Guwahati Origin , Amritsar, Bagdogra, W airindia.in/alliance-air Govt. of Arunachal Pradesh Parvati LGBI Airport. Bengaluru, Bhubaneswar, Chennai, Delhi, Hyderabad, , Kochi, SPICEJET transport directory Kolkata, Mumbai, Varanasi Cell 09871803333, 09654003333 W spicejet.com AIR TEZU AIRPORT has been inaugurated, VISTARA Origin Kolkata IN ARUNACHAL but at the time of going to press is not Cell 09289228888 W airvistara.com AIRLINE OFFICES up and running as yet. TEZPUR AIRPORT Alliance Air DIBRUGARH AIRPORT Haleswar Dist-Sonitpur, Toll Free 18602331407 IN ASSAM Mohanbari, Assam Tezpur, Assam W airindia.in LOKPRIYA GOPINATH Airport Director Tel 0373-2382755 Airport Director Tel 03712-258441 Origin Guwahati BORDOLOI/ Guwahati W aai.aero W aai.aero

146 147 AIRLINE OFFICES Assam and New Delhi. Trains serving Kolkata-Silghat Town Kaziranga Express, connected to Arunachal Pradesh by ALLIANCE AIR this station include the Naharlagun- Mumbai LLT-Guwahati Express, etc. It Naharlagun-Guwahati Donyi Polo Toll Free 18602331407 Guwahati Donyi Polo Express, is connected to Arunachal Pradesh by Express, Arunachal AC SF Express. W airindia.in/alliance-air Naharlagun-Guwahati Shatabdi Express, the Naharlagun-Guwahati Shatabdi w i l d l i f e w i l d l i f e

Tinsukia Intercity Express, and Arunachal Express, Tinsukia Intercity Express and TEZPUR RAILWAY STATION & &

HELICOPTER SERVICE AC SF Express (bi-weekly) which con- Arunachal AC SF Express. Tezpur Railway Station falls under the W arunachalipr.gov.in nects Delhi, UP, Bihar, West Bengal and Rangiya Division. Trains serving this Guwahati Ticket Counter Assam to Arunachal Pradesh. HARMUTI JUNCTION station are Alipurduar Jn-Silghat Town n a t u r e n a t u r e Cell 09085738939 Harmuti Junction is connected to Rajya Rani Express, Kolkata-Silghat Naharlagun Ticket Counter IN ASSAM served major metros and Town Kaziranga Express etc. It is Cell 09436291907 DIBRUGARH RAILWAY STATION cities by Arunachal Express. connected to Arunachal Pradesh by SECTORS: Dibrugarh Railway Station is well Other trains connecting Arunachal Guwahati-Naharlagun Shatabdi Express, Guwahati -Naharlagun connected to Delhi, Amritsar, Pradesh are Naharlagun-Guwahati Guwahati-Naharlagun Donyi-Polo Guwahati-Tawang Chandigarh, Bengaluru, Kolkata, Uttar Shatabdi Express, Naharlagun-Tinsukia Express, Arunachal AC SF Express. Naharlagun-Pasighat Pradesh etc. Major trains serving this Intercity Express and Naharlagun- Pasighat-Along station are Avadh Assam Express, Guwahati Donyi Polo Express. TINSUKIA JUNCTION e s s e n t i a l s e s s e n t i a l s

Naharlagun-Mechuka Dibrugarh-Amritsar Weekly Express, Tinsukia Junction is connected to Dibrugarh-Chandigarh Weekly Express, NORTH LAKHIMPUR RAILWAY Dibrugarh, Guwahati by Ledo- Dibrugarh-Kolkata Weekly SF Express STATION Guwahati Intercity Express, Tinsukia-

t r a v e l RAIL t r a v e l Enquiry 139 and Dibrugarh-New Delhi Rajdhani North Lakhimpur Railway Station is Jorhat Town Passenger, etc. It is W indianrail.gov.in Express. It is connected to Arunachal connected to Arunachal Pradesh by the connected to Arunachal Pradesh by irctc.co.in Pradesh by the Naharlagun- Tinsukia Naharlagun – Tinsukia Intercity Express. Naharlagun-Tinsukia Intercity Express. Intercity Express. IN ARUNACHAL RANGIYA JUNCTION Road BHALUKPONG RAILWAY STATION GUWAHATI JUNCTION Rangiya Junction is a major railway BUS Bhalukpong Railway Station is Guwahati Junction is a major railway station connecting Assam to major Aalo (SS) Cell 09436058188 connected to Assam by the station connecting Assam to other cities in India and Arunachal Pradesh. Bomdila (SS) Cell 09402476020 Bhalukpong-Dekargoan Passenger. parts of the country. Major trains Trains serving this station are Kanchen- Pasighat (SS) Cell 09612453200 serving this station junga Express, Avadh Assam Express, Itanagar (SS/AS) Cell 09774034571 NAHARLAGUN RAILWAY STATION are Anand Vihar -Agartala Rajdhani North East Express, Mumbai LLT Roing (SS) Cell 09436222387 Naharlagun Railway Station connects Express, Bikaner-Guwahati Express, Kamakhya AC Express, etc. It is Tawang (SS) Cell 09436836087

148 149 TOURIST/ wildlife OFFICES In f o r m a t i o n In f o r m a t i o n & Bo o k i n g

Tourist Offices w i l d l i f e

Arunachal Tourism W arunachaltourism.com &

ITANAGAR Mandir, Dispur, Assam Department of Tourism Tel 0361-2229506 Cell 7086026788 n a t u r e Govt. of Arunachal Pradesh, Itanagar Cell 08787619774 (Director of Tourism) NEW DELHI Department of Tourism GUWAHATI Govt. of Arunachal Pradesh Department of Tourism Arunachal Bhawan, Kautilya Marg, Govt. of Arunachal Pradesh Chanakyapuri, New Delhi o f f i c e s

GS Road, Rukmani Village, Opp Mansa Tel 011-23013915, 23013956

wildlife Offices w i l d l i f e / Daying Erring Wildlife Sanctuary Pakke Tiger Resrve Pasighat Seijosa Wildlife Range t o u r i s t Cell 09862624766 (DFO), East Kameng 09436621222 (RO) Cell 08811952541 (RFO), 09436042859 (DFO) Eaglenest Wildlife Sanctuary Cell 09436093632 Shergaon Forest Division Tel 03778-200016 Tel 03782-232249 Cell 09436246192 Talle Wildlife Sanctuary Namdapha National Park Range Forest Offier Field Director, Lower Subansiri Miao, Changlang Dist Hapoli Cell 09436835658 Cell 09436040268 (RO), 09436047092

150 Tour OPERATORS

BOMDILA STD 03782 Arunachal Pradesh w i l d l i f e Himalayan Holidays Guwahati Branch House No 149 (1st & Location ABC Bldng. Main Market, Floor), Kolnadhara Cell 07002412384 Bomdila Tel 3782-222017 Cell 094360 45063 W himalayan-holidays.net NAHARLAGUN n a t u r e Services Car rental, tour packages, Ravi Travel & Tour Inc transportation, accommodations, wildlife Location A Sector, Naharlagun (Near tours, customised tours, forex, ticketing, Old Cinema Hall), Dist Papumpare passport n visa, all permits Destinations Cell 08257894003- 04 Services Hotel/ All North-Eastern States Air/ Rail bookings Tip They have discontinued Car rentals ITANAGAR STD 0360 Duyu Tours & Travels Xcell Location Vivek Vihar, College Road, Location Hafizan Complex, Ulubari, o p e r a t o r s Itanagar Tel 0360-216450, 218056 Opp Volvo Point, GS Road, Guwahati Cell 09436044905 W arunachaltours. Cell 09854121140 W xcell.co.in t o u r com Services Car rental, tour Services Car rental, tour packages, packages, customised tours, accommodations Destinations transportation, accommodations Arunachal Pradesh, Assam Destinations All North East PASIGHAT STD 0368 Kaziranga Tours DONYI HANGO TOURS – Rafting / Address Kadambari Complex (Gr Flr), Trekking Thana Charall Tel 2325969 Location Tebo Village, East Siang, Cell 09435530345, 09401343501 NH 52, Pasighat Tel 222324 W kazirangatours.com Services Cell 09436043393 W arunachal Customised tours, wildlife tours, donyihango.com Services Tour trekking Destinations All of packages, trekking, rafting, hotel

151 accommodations, transportation, 09436875102, 09366709589, Mishmi Hills Camp Roing E-Mail:: [email protected]/ arrange permit 08974299357 Services Guesthouse that also arranges nature [email protected] Car rental, Adventure Tour and culture tours in Dibang Valley, ROING STD 03803 Packages for all NE state, Lower Dibang Valley Eagle Nest Birding – Eagle Nest w i l d l i f e w i l d l i f e

The Mishmi Hills Trekking Co. customised tours, accommodations, Contact: Jibi Pulu 098628 56981 Specialises in: Birding tours all over & &

Location 2 kms from Roing Cell transportation Arunachal Pradesh Ravi Mekola Contact Gaurav Kataria Wildlife and bird tours in Dibang Valley 99990 30436, info@eaglenest n a t u r e n a t u r e Contact 97747 48828, 94024 57180 birding.com Adventure tour operators Help Tourism Naja and Wild India Abor Country Travels Expedition, The Mishmi Hills Trekking Specialises in: Rural Tourism, Expeditions Itanagar Company - Roing/Anini Homestays, Nature Lodges, Nature Specialises in: Reptile, snake and Specialises in: Adventure, Specialises in: Hiking, culture, Camping, Nature expeditions, Birding, microfauna trips and workshops cultural heritage Tours, camping, adventure, camping, esp. in Dibang Butterfly tours, Wildlife treks, and volunteering, structured fauna o p e r a t o r s o p e r a t o r s

angling, rafting, high altitude flower Valley, Lower Dibang Valley and ‘Biodivinity journeys’ expeditions in Arunachal Pradesh. tours Eastern Arunachal Contact: Raj Basu +919434046892 Contact: Soham Mukherjee t o u r t o u r

Contact: Oken Tayeng Contact: Tine Mena E-mail: [email protected] +91-9909906618 +91 360 2292969, 9436053870, +91-9436875102, +91-89742 99357 W www.helptourism.com and E-mail: [email protected] 9436860903 Fb Page: https://www.facebook.com/ (Under construction) www. W [email protected] Skype: Abor Country MishmiHillsTrekkingCompany/ arunachalhomestays.com a d v e n t u r e a d v e n t u r e E-Mail: [email protected], Namdapha tours and treks [email protected] . Mishmi Hills Resort & Hotels SEED (Society for Education Miao, Changlang private Limited – Roing and Environmental Specialises in: Treks, tours, safaris Dibang Adventure - Anini/Roing Resort in Roing that arranges tours in Development) - Miao and activities in Namdapha Tiger Specialises in: trekking, wildlife, Dibang and Lower Dibang Valley Specialises in: Eco camps, Nature reserve and culture, angling, safaris, adventure in Contact: 094368 36763, Conservation through “nature walks & Contact: Phupla Singpho Dibang Valley, Lower Dibang Valley or proprietor Rezina Mihu learn” at Miao/Namdapha/Roing/Upper +91 9436228763 Contact Adiju Rondo +919402606309, +919862447610 Siang – this is a nonprofit organisation +91 9863288092, 03807 222296, +918794120523 Fb Page: https://www.facebook.com/ Contact: Minom Pertin +913807 222296 (for outside India) E-Mail: - [email protected] ExploreMishmiHills/ 918974159612/+919436252577 E-mail: [email protected]

152 153 W https://namdaphatoursandtreks. West Kameng culture tours between [email protected] wordpress.com/ Contact: 94352 71651, 99548 61743 Menchukha and Tato W www.brahmaputratours.com Contact: Tsawang Chukla Donyi Hango Tours Pasighat Camp Namdapha Holidays - Village Holiday Tours & 9402224350 +91 9402224350 Specialises in: Pro rafting and angling, w i l d l i f e w i l d l i f e

Namsai/ / Shillong/ travels - , Tirap dist. +91 7005737596 and Central Arunachal, Buddhist trails, & &

Tura/Itanagar Specialises in: village to village Gebu Sona +91 9436074877, riverside camping, trekking Specialises in: Tribal gourmet tours, treks, cultural tours, esp.in Eastern +91 940299666 Contact: Nino Dai, Yane Dai 0368 trekking, flower tours, culture Arunachal - Tirap, Changlang, E-Mail: [email protected], 2224243, 9436043393 n a t u r e n a t u r e Contact: Chau Enseng Mantow Longding, etc [email protected], E-Mail: [email protected] 8974643450 Contact: Khunwang Tangjang [email protected] W https://arunachaldonyihango.com E-mail: [email protected] +91-8118951427 W http://gtlhomestay.com E-mail: [email protected] M/S ARUNACHAL DISCOVER North by Northeast - Tezpur Himalayan Holidays, Bomdila PARADISE TOURS Naharlagun Specialises in: Cycling, motorbike, Wildwildeast - Roing Lower Specialises in: culture, hiking, angling Specialises in: Paragliding, ethno-cultural tours, wildlife, Dibang Valley in Western Arunachal parasailing, etc, esp. around East o p e r a t o r s o p e r a t o r s

overland journeys in Arunachal Specialises in: Tribal ethno-cultural Contact Tsering Wange, Kameng and Contact Roheen Browne festival tours, angling, +91 3782-222017/222216/223818, Contact: Vijay Sonam +91 t o u r t o u r

+91-9940416065 off-roading 9436045063/9436222905 9089722446/9436041860, E-mail: [email protected] Contact: Tajom Tayeng 9402257638 (Itanagar:) fax: 0360-2246531 W http://northbynortheast.in 7002031852, 9862885645 Tawang: 9436248216 E-mail: - arunachaldiscovertours@ E mail: [email protected] E-Mail: [email protected] ymail.com/[email protected] a d v e n t u r e a d v e n t u r e Kipepeo - Mumbai/ W www.himalayan-holidays.net W www.arunachaldiscovertours.com Specialises in: Cultural tours, Tajom Tyeng - Roing Tawang Tour and Travels Tawang/Delhi road trips, hikes Contact: Tajom Tyeng +91-98628 Brahmaputra Tours, Ziro Contact: Lobsang Phuntsok (Tawang) Contact: Piran Elavia + 91 9930002412 85645, +91-94364 36010, Specialises in: Cultural tours, +91 8826888897, 9818336220 E-mail: [email protected] +91-70020 31852 butterflies, orchids and hiking, Contact Delhi: - +91-8826888897, W www.kipepeo.in E-mail: [email protected] Talle Valley, Ziro 9818336220 Contact: Koj Mama 03788- E-mail: - [email protected] Binanda Hatiborah - M/s Menchukha Tours & Travels 224905/2241931, W - www.tawangtravel.in Specialises in: Birding and wildlife ours Menchukha/ Itanagar 9436634496/8575248013 Tribal Adventure Tours Naharlagun in Pakke, Eaglenest, Tawang, Specialises in: Trekking, camping, E-Mail: [email protected]; E-Mail:- tribaladventuretours@gmail.

154 155 com; [email protected] Central Arunachal 08974141614 Rooms 4 Facilities Kitchen, food on Contact: John Panye +91 9436252013; Contact: Gandhi Darang Tariff `600-1,000 Facilities request, caretaker Reservations +91 08414080717, +91 360 2247422 0360-2214008 Restaurant, attached bath Tel 03778-200016 +91 9615432244, +91 8131872400, Cell 09436042859 (DFO) w i l d l i f e w i l d l i f e

M/S ANE SIANG Tours & +91 9402617938 Namdapha Jungle Camp & &

Expeditions Itanagar E-mail: - [email protected] Location Miao, 7 km from NP from Upper Dekoroi Rest House Specialises in: rafting, angling, W www.anesiangtours.com entry gate Cell 09436228763, Location Inside the Forest, 12 kms 08974141614, 08257994436 from West Bank Forest Rest House n a t u r e n a t u r e Rooms 4 Tariff `1,500; TE Facilities Cell 09436093632 (Range Officer) Kitchen, dining area, local tribal food on Rooms 4 Tariff `400 Facilities FOREST RESTHOUSES request, guides, trekking, bird Kitchen, food on request, caretaker watching, butterfly spotting, Reservations Tel 03778-200016 DAYING ERRING WILDLIFE SANCTUARY EAGLENEST WILDLIFE SANCTUARY tribal visit Cell 09436042859 Forest Rest House Ramalingam Location Near Asha Diagnostic Location Ramalingam, PO Tenga, PAKKE TIGER RESERVE West Bank Forest Rest House Centre, Town Area, Pasighat Singchung, Shergaon Forest Division, Forest Inspection Bunglow Location Inside the Forest, Cell 09436621222 (RO), Cell West Kameng Tel 03782=232249 Cell Location Inside the Forest, adjacent Close to the Gate Cell 09436093632 f r h f r h 09862624766 (DFO), Rooms 4 09436246192 (DFO) Rooms 2 Tariff `500 to West Bank Forest Rest (Range Officer) Rooms 4 Tariff `400 Tariff `400-1,200 Facilities Facilities Kitchen, cook, dining hall House Cell 09436093632 (RO) Credit Cards NA Facilities Kitchen, Kitchen, cook, food on request, Rooms 2, dorms 1 (6 bedded) food on request, caretaker, room attached bath MOULING NATIONAL PARK Tariff `400, dorm bed `100 service, attached bath For Reservations Forest Rest House Facilities Kitchen, caretaker, room DFO Tel 03778-200016 Cell Forest Rest House Jeepghat Location Ramsing Wildlife Range, service, attached bath 09436042859 Location Jeepghat Mouling Wildlife Division, Jengging Cell Reservations Tel 03778-200016 Cell 09862624766 (DFO) Rooms 4 09436040109 (DFO) Rooms 4 Tariff Cell 09436042859 Talle Wildlife Sanctuary (single bedded) Tariff `250-300 `450-550 Facilities Kitchen, cook, dining Pange Camp (approx.) Facilities Kitchen, cook, hall, food on request, attached bath Khari Forest Rest House Location Lower Subansiri, Hapoli Tel food on request, attached bath, Location Inside the Forest, 12 kms 03788-224277 Cell 09436040268 Tip Reached by crossing the NAMDAPHA NATIONAL PARK (DEBAN) from West Bank Forest Rest (RFO), 09436047092 (DFO) Rooms 2 Siang River by forest department Eco Tourist Forest Guest House House Cell 09436093632 (RO) Tariff `200 Facilities Kitchen, cook, boats Location Miao Cell 09436228763, Rooms 4 Tariff `400 Credit Cards NA food on request, attached bath

156 157 h o m e s t a y s n a t u r e & w i l d l i f e River Kameng ties 158 Cell Location Homestay YulChhen Pema Rooms Location YeshiHomestay Facilities Location YangdolHomestay Rooms Cell Location Homestay Khaje Room Cell Location Homestay Dirkhipa Rooms Cell Location Homestay Bham BHALUKPONG service, geyser,service, heater, bath attached parking, geyser,parking, heater, bath attached service, room hall, dining Kitchen, parking, geyser,parking, heater, bath common service, room hall, dining Kitchen, dining hall, geyser,hall, bath dining attached 09402928011 Kitchen, dining hall, room service room hall, dining Kitchen, 08729930222, 09436635835 09436635835 08729930222, 08729930222, 09436635835 08729930222, 09436635835 08729930222, 09436635835 08729930222, Cell 2 3 3 2 Cell Tariff Thembang Village, Dirang Dirang Village, Thembang Thembang Village, Dirang Village, Thembang Kameng Near Village, Tipi West Rupa, Village, Jigaon Dirang Village, Thembang Dirang Village, Thembang Kitchen, dining hall, room hall, dining Kitchen, 08415850764, 08731978022 08415850764, Tariff Tariff Tariff 09402071593, Homest Rooms

`

700 `1,000 `700 `1,300-1,600 Facilities a 2 Facilities ys Facilities Tariff Kitchen, Kitchen,

Facili- `1,000

Namsai Siang Namsai cuisine, vehicles for sightseeing for vehicles cuisine, common bath common dining hall, parking, geyser,parking, hall, heater dining Location Homestay Hewli Tariff Location Homestay Greenview NAMSAI Rooms Tariff Location Homestay Gumin K Location Homestay Gumin Ane P Facilities Location Homestay Sangtini Kitchen, dining hall, common bath common hall, dining Kitchen, common bath common 09436053509, 08729989123 09436053509, person, with two meals two with person, Kitchen, vehicle for sightseeing for vehicle Kitchen, meals 04048 49977 91784 Namsai meals asighat

Cell 3,000 with all meals all with `3,000 1,600 per person, with two with person, per `1,600 Facilities Facilities Rooms Rooms Rooms 2 Cell Cell Cell Behind Buddhist Monastery,Buddhist Behind behind Village Mebo, Romdum Mebo, Village East Pasighat, Mirbu, Tigra Monastery,Buddhist Behind Kitchen, parking, pic n drop, n pic parking, Kitchen, `1,000 07005059493, 087319 07005059493, 08794089075, 093666 08794089075, 094360 09862708997, 09436637187 3 2 2 Kitchen, traditional Kitchen, Kitchen, dining hall, dining Kitchen, Tariff Tariff Tariff Facilities igher Secondary,Higher

2,500 with two with `2,500 1,600 per `1,600 `2,500-3,000 Facilities Kitchen, Rooms Facilities Rooms

Cell 2 2

33767, 084248 02002 084248 33767, Dibang ValleyDibang Siang 52 1,600 per person, with two meals two with person, per `1,600 meals two with person, per `1,800 1,500 per person, with all meals all with person, per `1,500 07005586217 Location Camp ValleyJungle Dibang 03803 STD ROING Facilities Location Stay Home Ori 03783 STD ALONG Location TuniyangHomestay Location Homestay Pineapple Location TakarHomestay Facilities Cell Location Homestay Narmi Facilities Cell Location Homestay Nana hall, room service, attached bath attached service, room hall, bath common service, 3,000 Tel 09862911689 07085858003 Cell Facilities 222324 12 km to Miuliati, Lower Miuliati, to km 12 Village Ori Takilalung, Village Pasighat East Pasighat, Napit, Village NH TeboSiang, East Village, Siang East Village, Runne Takilalung, Village Pasighat Kitchen, local guide, dining guide, local Kitchen, room hall, dining Kitchen, bath common Kitchen, 09862571827 Rooms Tel Cell Kitchen, dining room dining Kitchen, 0353-2433683 Rooms Rooms 09436043393, Cell 4 Rooms Tariff 076389 2 2 Tariff Tariff 8

`2,800- Tariff Cell

main Ziro Town)Ziro main Bomjir,Roing from 17km 08258829810, 0940205405708258829810, `1,500-2,000 ZIRO STD 03788 STD ZIRO bath attached geyser,hall, dining request, on heaters, room service, attached bath, TV bath, attached service, room 09856209494 Facilities Cell Location Stay Home Lemberdung cottages Location Ziro Ngunu Tariff Location Home Villa Jambey TAWANG03794 STD Location Camp Artist – Notko Zaktum meals tents meals, all with Rooms attached bath attached hall, dining request, on food Kitchen, heater,bath attached geyser,hall, dining request, on food geyser,heater, bath attached 2,000 per person, with two meals two with person, per 2,000 08414987117, 09436045988 08414987117, 09733000442 Tip Also called Dambuk called Also 09436051009

`1,800-3,000 Facilities 4, tents 6 tents 4, Tariff 8 km from Tawangfrom km 8 Market Siro Village, Ziro (3 kms from kms (3 Ziro Village, Siro kms) (4 Urgelling Lower Dibang Valley,Dibang Lower Kitchen, dining hall, parking. hall, dining Kitchen, Facilities Rooms

W `2,500-3,500 Restaurant, laundry,Restaurant, helptourism.net Cell Tariff Rooms Facilities 3,500; TE with all with TE `3,500; 09436047891, 2 Kitchen, food Kitchen,

Tariff 5,000; TE `5,000; Cell Homestay 3 Cell Facilities Rooms Rooms Tariff Kitchen,

`1,200-

159 6 6

h o m e s t a y s n a t u r e & w i l d l i f e Photo Credits

Inside the Book

Abhinav Kumar Page 96: Kamlang River flows across the Kamlang Tiger Reserve

arjun kamdar Page 38: The spectacular landscape of Eaglenest Wildlife Sanctuary

Kojmama Taman Page 58: View of Talley Valley Wildlife Sanctuary

Sanjiv valsan Page 20-21: On the way Sela pass to Nuranang Falls Page 56-57: Yordi Rabe Supse Sanctuary trek Page 64: River flowing through Yordi Rabe Supse Sanctuary Page 76: Scenic view on the way from the Mechuka trek Page 86: Hido Hidi waterfall Page 90-91: Trekkers in Namdapha Tiger Reserve Page 92: River flowing through Dibang Valley Page 104, A hiker crossing the waterfall, namdapha National park Saniya Chaplod Page 22: Forest road, Pakke Tiger Reserve

Shutterstock Page 4-5: Woodpecker searching for food in the forests of Arunachal Pradesh

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