INDIAN TOURIST SITES – IN THE FOOTSTEPS OF THE BUDDHA

Adarsh Batra*

Abstract The Chinese pilgrims Fa Hien and Hsuan Chwang). Across the world and throughout the ages, religious people have made The practice of pilgrimages. The Buddha flourished long in himself exhorted his followers to , perhaps reaching a zenith in visit what are now known as the the seventh century AD. After this great places of pilgrimage: it began to decline because of the , Bodhgaya, , invading Muslim armies, and by the Rajgir, Nalanda and twelfth century the practice of the . The actions of the had become sparse in its Buddha in each of these places are homeland. Thus, the history of described within the canons of the the Buddhist places of pilgrimage scriptures of the various traditions of from the thirteenth to the mid- his teaching, such as the sections on nineteenth centuries is obscure , and also in various and they were mostly forgotten. compendia describing his life. The However, it is remarkable that sites themselves have now been they all remained virtually undis- identified once more with the aid turbed by the conflicts and develop- of records left by three pilgrims of ments of society during that period. the past (The great Emperor , Subject only to the decay of time

*The author has a Ph.D. in Tourism from Kurukshetra University, Kurukshetra (K.U.K.), India. He has published extensively in Tourism and Travel Magazines. Currently he is a lecturer in MA- TRM program in the Graduate School of Business of Assumption University of Thailand.

46 ABAC Journal Vol. 23, No.2 (May - August, 2003), pp. 46 - 57 Indian Tourist sites – In the footsteps of the Buddha

they remained dormant, waiting for tourism. And yet India has failed rediscovery. to exploit the Buddhist angle, the most potential. Buddhism was born in From the middle of the last India. But it almost disappeared century, the Archeological Survey of from the country of its origin. It is , India, under the auspices of the however, a major force in much of British Government, and one Asia – in China, Japan, Korea, Englishman in particular -- General Taiwan, Hong Kong, Singapore, Sir Alexander Cunningham -- Vietnam, Laos, Cambodia, Myanmar, unearthed and identified many sites. Thailand, , Nepal, Bhutan, Since that time, owing to a renewed Mongolia, and so on. Indian interest in Buddhism and the devotion and hardship of many NORTH EAST INDIA individuals, the pilgrimage sites have been revived. 100 kms from Gorakhpur in Uttar Pradesh, Kapilavastu (Piprahwa) on the The following account is Gorakhpur Gonda loop-line with intended less to present a purely Naugarh (35 kms.) is the nearest historical record of the places of railway station. The capital city of the pilgrimage than to offer some Sakya clan, and one of the earliest information and perhaps inspiration to republics, it was in other pilgrims, with the wish that this Kapilavastu’s opulent environs, that revival may increase. the holy soul of prince Siddharth (Gautam Buddha) spent his INTRODUCTION childhood. Here he saw sorrow and pain, disease and death. Then, In 566 BC, in the little state of finally when he saw a radiant Kapilvastu at the foot of the happy Sadhu who had conquered all Himalayas, was born a son, these, he decided to renounce all Siddharatha, to Suddhodana, a worldly riches and pleasures to seek Sakya prince, and his wife truth and embark on the path of Mayadevi. Seers proclaimed that the salvation. The place holds significant new-born would either conquer the value for Buddhist pilgrims and has world or be a Buddha- the enlighted several . The archaeological one. The prophesy came true excavations have revealed stone caskets when Gautama attained Supreme containing relics believed to be that of Knowledge (bodhi) and laid the Buddha’s. foundation of a religion which is today practiced by one-third of the Sarnath, about 10 kms. from the world’s population. holy city of Varanasi, is the blessed locale where more than 2500 years ago In India, it is pilgrimage which is Buddha chose to deliver his first the most important segment of domestic

47 Adarsh Batra

sermon, after attaining Enlightenment. is said to have rested and meditated The five disciples who had followed here while in Sarnath. him were surprised to see the mesmerizing glowing countenance of Kaushambi, 54 kms from Buddha, who then delivered his first Allahabad, was visited by Buddha in sermon before them, now termed the 6th and 9th years after his Dharamachakra Pravartan. This set in enlightenment. He delivered several motion the great Buddhist tradition of sermons here, elevating it to a center of the , for popularizing the learning for Buddhists. Today one can teachings of the great ascetic, world- see the ruins of an Ashokan Pillar, an wide. Gautam Buddha with his five old fort and the Ghositaram Monastery. disciples formed the first Sangha The archaeological excavations here alongwith of Varanasi and his 54 have yielded a large number of friends. sculptors and figurines, coins, punch- marked and cast coins and terracotta The beginning of the celebrated sculptures which show the reverence , ‘Buddham Sharanam the city was held in by the devout, in Gachhami’, owes its origin to Sarnath. times gone by. All these religious finds The three Jewels of historical and archaeological importance can be viewed at the “ I go for to the Buddha, Allahabad Museum. I go for refuge to the Wheel of Law, I go for refuge to the Sangha” Kushinagar ( Kushinagar of Yore) is a revered place for Buddhist pilgrims, first laid down here, have remained 55 kms away from Gorakpur. It was unchanged ever since. Hence rightly, here that the Tathagata, the reciter of every Buddhist Pilgrim after Bodhgaya, truth, breathed his last with the last endeavors to be blessed with a visit to words. "Behold now, brethren, I exhort Sarnath in his life time. you, saying, decay is inherent in all component things! Work out your Dhamekh bears particular salvation with diligence!” A temple significance at Sarnath as it signifies the dedicated to the event the “seat of the holy Buddha”, as he Mahaparinirvana temple today stands proclaimed his faith. It is about 34 mtrs. amidst a serene ‘sal’ grove ...... as if in height and including the foundations, still reminiscing the great demise. The it can be measured upto 42 mtrs. huge statue of the Reclining Buddha Besides Dhamekh Stupa, Sarnath also excavated in 1876 at the temple, is one has the ruins of Dharmajajika Stupa and of the most momentous of all sights for that of the original Mulgandhakuti the devout. It was brought form Temple which according to Hieun Mathura by a devout monk, Haribala Tsang was about 61 mtrs. high. Buddha during the reign of King Kumara Gupta

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in the 5th century AD. Sravast has age-old Stupas, majestic monasteries and several temples. The whole of Kushinagar, since the Buddha is said to have performed some Mahaparinirvana of Gautam Buddha, miracles here. This holy place also has was turned into a memorial site with the famous Anand Bodhi tree, an Stupas including the relic stupa- offspring of the one said to have been Mukutbandhana and Gupta period planted by Buddha’s main disciple Chaitayas and Viharas, built by the Anand. devout kings. The Chinese travelers Fa Hien, Hieun Tasang and T. Ising visited Kushinagar during different centuries EASTERN INDIA and recorded a graphic account of the place which later fell to bad times, due Bodhgaya, in the state of Bihar, to lack of patronage. These recordings reckoned as the most important provided the vital clues for excavations Buddhist pilgrimage center, is the place done centuries later by Sir Alexander where Lord Sakyamuni (Gautam Cunningham. Buddha) entered into mediation after being moved by the sufferings of The visiting sites of Kushinagar mankind. The giant Bodhi Tree fall in three categories: The (Peepal) that we see today is believed to Mahaparinirvana Temple, commemo- have grown from the original Bodhi rating the place of the great decease Tree under which, sitting on the raised with a reclining statue of Lord Buddha. platform, Prince Siddharth mediated Mata Kunwar Shrine contains a 10th and finally attained . Century blue schist image of Buddha Monasteries raised here by Burmese, and; Rambhar Stupa, which is Tibetan, Chinese, Japanese and Thai supposedly the spot where Lord devotees, in their native architectural Buddha was cremated and his relics styles, are worth visiting. Then there is divided into eight equal parts. Apart Chaukramana, the Jewel Walk, where it from this, a Chinese Temple, a Buddhist is believed that the Buddha strolled Temple, a Tibetan Temple and the Indo- while in deep thought. Japan-Srilanka Buddhist Center hold significant religious value for pilgrims. The magnificent Maha Bodhi temple in Bodhgaya is an architectural Situated 134 kms. from Lucknow amalgamation of many cultures. The and 29 kms. from Balrampur, Sravasti, temple bears the stamp of the the capital of the ancient kingdom of architecture of the Gupta Dynasty and Kosala, has the honor for sheltering subsequent ages. On the walls of the Buddha for 24 rainy seasons in the temple, one sees Buddha carved in Jetvana Gardens. The city believed to different aspects, and in the sanctum be founded by the mythological king sanctorum, a colossal Buddha, is seen

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touching the ground, which has (Department of tourism). Sujata Sthan mythological significance in the or Durgeshwari Temple stands as a Buddhist lores. The temple carries symbol commemorating this event. inscriptions recording the visits of pilgrims from Sri Lanka, China and Nalanda, 90 kms south of Patna, Mayanmar. In the 7th and 10th literally means the place that confers Centuries AD Hieun Tsang, the Chinese the lotus. It was one of the oldest traveler, also visited the temple in the universities of the world. It has nine 7th Century. Finally a visit to the million books, ten thousand students, Bodhgaya Archaeological Museum is a two thousand teachers and was a center must for a religious art lover as it of great learning which reached its initiates one into the age of Buddha’s zenith between 5th and 12th century centered art forms. The Buddhist AD. Both Lord Buddha and Lord sculpture collection from 1st Century Mahavira visited this place. Emperor BC to 11th Century AD is housed Ashoka built a Vihara, while Emperor here at one place. Reflected through Harshvardhan donated a 26 mtr. high several art forms, it is more like a copper image of Buddha and Emperor treasure house of artistic expression. Kumar Gupta built a college of fine Bodhgaya is 245 kms. from Varanasi arts. In 1951, an International Center and 178 kms. from Patna via Rajgir and for was established Nalanda. in Nalanda. Nava Nalanda Vihar, 2 kms from here, is a similar institution. A place of religious sanctity for , Gaya lies 12 kms. from The recent findings from Bodhgaya between Pretshila and excavations and the identifications of Ramshila hills and is washed by the number of sites with Buddhist remain shores of river Phalgu. Gaya has a open up a new vista in the field of large number of Buddhist temples also. Buddhist Tourism in Orissa. Dhauli While Buddha was doing severe hill on the bank of the river Daya penance, he became weak, tired and is a little away from the main road hungry. He rested under a tree, where to Puri/Konark from Bhubaneswar. he was offered food by a condemned Ashoka changed his mind in favor of village woman named Sujata. To spiritual conquests in preference to war everybody’s surprise Buddha accepted exploits after the Kalinga war which her offerings. Legend has it that after was fought here in the 3rd century BC. having consumed the food, Buddha’s This place motivated the Kalinga countenance assumed a divine glow and Nippon Buddha Sangha to establish a he realized the Supreme Truth; that peace or Shanti Stupa at Dhauli neither extreme self indulgence nor self along with the construction of a mortification is ever required. What is monastery called Saddarma Vihar. needed is to follow the Middle Path

50 Indian Tourist sites – In the footsteps of the Buddha

Lalitagiri, the earliest buddhist is situated in the Eastern complex of Ist Century AD, has a huge Himalayas, along the borders of Bhutan brick monastery, the remains of a (East), (North), Nepal (West) and Chaitya hall, a number of votive Stupas West Bengal (South). Its capital, and a renovated stone Stupa at the apex has a lot to see, specially the of sand stone hill. At Ratnagiri, Research Institute of Tibetology, a excavations revealed the establishment World center for the study of Buddhist of a Buddhist center from the time of philosophy and religion and has a rare Narasimha Gupta Baladitya (first half collection of Thankas, statues and over of the sixth century AD). At Udaigiri 200 Buddhist icons. The Rumtek excavations brought to light a sprawling Monastery about 24 kms away houses complex of brick monastery with a the most unique art objects in the world. number of Buddhist sculptures. Infact , near Gangtok, built the entire area is found located at the almost 200 years ago, was blessed by foot hills of a large hill acting as the the great tantric master Druptab backdrop of the area. Karpa.

Rajgir, meaning “the Royal Not very far from Bomdila in Palace”, (Raja Griha) lies 12 kms. south lies the of Patna. Rajgir is a site of great Headquarters, a beautiful district in the sanctity and significance for Buddhists. center of which emerges the walled and The Gridhakuta Hill, in Rajgir, was the fortified . The seat from where Buddha delivered monastery overlooks the valley and is many of his sermons. It was here that surrounded by mountains which seem the teachings of Buddha were recorded to be guarding the valley and its in writing for the first time. An aerial inhabitants. Over 500 live in its ropeway takes visitors up the hill where 65 residential buildings. One can the Japanese have built a beautiful witness a superb collection of ancient Stupa. scriptures, images, Thankas and a 8 meters high gilded image of Buddha. ’s Fort is another place The monastery is locally known as of tourist attraction. The sculpture , like any other and is believed which depicts the ‘’, or the to be 400 years old. ‘great cession’ of Buddha is another monument of artistic and historical , believed to be the first importance. It shows the Buddha republic of the world, having an elected lying on his right side with the right body of representatives, holds special forearm resting under his head to significance for Buddhist devotees. At commemorate the final salvation or Kolhua, Lord Buddha delivered his last ‘Mukti’, of the great founder of the sermon, hinting at his impending Buddhist Faith. departure from the mortal world. Later,

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Emperor Ashoka erected a huge pillar Alchi, a little village, 70 kms from to commemorate the spot where the last Leh in Jammu and Kashmir, is known sermon was delivered. Vaishali was also as a jewel among the religious sites in the center of the IInd Buddhist Council Ladakh. Abandoned centuries ago, this congregation, held after 100 years of monastery has been lovingly Buddha’s Parinirvana to discuss the ten maintained by the monks at Likhir, the points of Vinaya, the rule of conduct nearest functioning Gompa. It is under dispute. popularly known as Chos-kor and comprises 5 temples which are perhaps Vaishali is famous for Amrapali, the richest in their collection of the beautiful dancer and of paintings and images in the Du-Khang Vaishali, who offered Buddha a mango (the Assembly Hall), and the three orchard and, impressed by his storied Sum-Tsek. Its murals, dating teachings, became a nun (Bhikshu). The back to the 11th and 12th Centuries, excavations carried out in Vaishali have predate the Tibetan style of painting brought to light Buddha Stupa I(4th which is found in all other . Century BC) and II, built in brick with Some of them are reminiscent of the a casket containing part of the ashes of painting of the far off Ajanta Caves and Buddha. are presumed to be almost the sole survivors of the buddhist style, currently in Kashmir during the first NORTHERN INDIA millenium AD.

Popularly known as “Hermit Sankisa lies in central Uttar Kingdom”, Ladakh is a land of snow Pradesh, 47 kms from Farrukhabad. It carved peaks, translucent Lakes, is believed to be the place where barren terrain and mystic culture. Buddha, along with Brahma and Devraj Quite like Tibet it has a great Indra (Rain God)descended after giving Buddhist tradition which is evident sermons to his mother in heaven. At from the high monk to people ratio the spot of descent stands a temple with of 1:8. It has about 13 major Gompas a statue of the Buddha. The place is (Monasteries) of which HEMIS is also known for a temple dedicated to considered the Gompa of Gompas. Bisari Devi and an excavated Ashokan It has the patronage of the Royal Elephant Pillar. There is also a colossal Family. It is the most important Linga here. A large fair is held at monastery of Ladakh with a concealed Sankisa in the month of Shravan (July- entrance, a huge courtyard flanked by August). Nearest airport is Agra, and two big temples. In the month of from there, one can travel up to Pakhna June the famous Hemis festival is (12 km from Sankisa) by rail. held, when a large number of tourists visit it.

52 Indian Tourist sites – In the footsteps of the Buddha

Tabo : A gompa was founded in sculpture. The Buddha is not 996 AD (Tibetan year of the Fire Ape) represented through figures at Sanchi, and the initiative is said to belong to the but through symbols, as was the great teacher Rinchensang Po also tradition in the early period of known as Mahaguru Ratnabhadra. In Buddhism. The lotus represents the June-July 1996, Tabo celebrated a Buddha’s birth, the tree signifies his millennium of its glorious existence. enlightenment, the wheel represents his With breathtaking murals and stucco first sermon and the Stupa represents images, Tabo is often called “The his nirvana or salvation. The footprints Ajanta of the Himalayas”. And here is and the throne denote the Buddha’s art that above all is born of religion and presence. Sanchi was virtually forgotten deep faith. after the 13th Century until 1818, when General Taylor, a British Officer The Tabo Monastery at a height of rediscovered it, half buried and well 3050 Mts. is a complex that holds 9 preserved. Later in 1912, Sir john temples, 23 chortens, a monks chamber Marshal, Director General of and an extension that houses the nuns Archaeology ordered the restoration chamber. This core is bounded by an work at the site. earthen wall and encloses an area of 6300 sq.mts. Just short of the complex are the contemporary monastic WESTERN INDIA structures. On the sheer cliff-face above the enclave are a series of caves Dating back to the 2nd Century which were used as dwelling units by BC, the monuments at Karla are at a the monks and include an assembly distance of 11 km from Lonavola and hall. Here again, dim traces of the just off the Mumbai-Pune road. The paintings that once adorned the rock magnificent Chaitya hall at Karla is the face are visible. largest (124ft x 46.5ft x 45ft ) and most evolved example of its class. Three important features of the interior of the CENTRAL INDIA hall are columns of pillars, the roof vault and the great sun windows. Sanchi is a serene hill crowned by a group of Stupas, monasteries, temples There are 37 columns in all, of and pillars dating from 3rd Century BC which 30 have interesting capitals to the 12th Century AD. The glory that showing prosperous men and women was Sanchi, an ancient seat of Buddhist riding elephants and horses yet bowing learning and place of pilgrimage, can in humility to the Great Buddha. The still be experienced in its complex vaulted roof has wooden supports. This structures where many Buddhist is the only place in India where 2000 legends found expression in the rich year old wood work can be seen. At the

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far end of the hall stands a Stupa, above Situated 42 kms north of Mumbai, which is held an umbrella, a symbol of near Borivili, the Kanheri Caves are set royalty. The whole system of lighting in the heart of the Borivili National depends on the enormous sun windows Park. There are 109 Caves dating from through which cleverly diffused light Ist Century BC to 9th Century AD, each with its light and shadows gives a great connected with a flight of steps. The sense of solemnity. most important one is the Cave No. 3 of the 6th Century which has the last of The Ajanta Caves consists of 30 the excavated Chaitya Hall of the caves including the unfinished ones, Order. It has 34 pillars and is dating back from 200 BC to 250 AD. like a colonnaded hall 28 mtrs.x13 mtr. These caves are situated 104 kms from in dimension. These encircle a 5 mtrs. Aurangabad and 52 kms from Jalgaon high Dagoba or Stupa and have Railway Station. The caves are cut from carvings depicting elephants kneeling the volcanic lava of the Deccan in the and worshipping the Stupa. The other forest ravines of the Sahyadri Hills and important caves are, Cave 11, the are set in beautiful sylvan surroundings. Durbar Hall or the Assembly hall with a They were discovered accidentally by a statue of the Buddha occupying the British Captain, John Smith in 1819, central place as in the case of idols in while on a hunting expedition. Ajanta Hindu temples and also a number of provides a unique combination of cells for Buddhist monk. Cave 34 is a architecture, sculpture and paintings. dark cell and has paintings of the Two basic types of monastic Buddhist Buddha on the ceiling. Cave 41 has, architecture are preserved at Ajanta, the besides other sculptures, a figures of the Chaitya or prayer hall ( Cave Nos. eleven headed Avalokiteshvara. Cave 9,10,19,26 & 29) and Vihara or 67 is a big cell, with the figures of monastery ( remaining 25 Caves). Avalokiteswara as saviour flanked by These caves suggest a well defined two female figures in the verandah. form of architecture, broadly resolving There are also images of the Buddha into two phases with a time gap of depicting the miracle of Sravasti. about 4 Centuries from each other. In the Hinayana Phase are included two Bhaja has 18 caves belonging to Chaitya Halls ( Cave Nos. 9 & 10 ) and the 2nd Century BC. Cave No. 12 is the 4 Viharas ( Cave Nos.8, 12, 13, & 15 ). largest and has a fine stilted vault. The In the Phase are included 3 last cave to the south has excellent Chaityas ( Cave nos. 19 & 26 and 29 sculptures including that of the famous being incomplete) and 11 exquisite ‘Dancing Couple’. Bhaja Caves are Viharas ( Cave Nos. 1, 2, 4, 6, 7, 11, 15, located 12 km. from Lonavala and can 17, and 20 to 24). be reached by an uphill climb of half- hour from the Malavali Railway Station

54 Indian Tourist sites – In the footsteps of the Buddha

on the Mumbai- Lonavala- Pune travel from Thailand for pilgrims to the section of the Central Railway. place of Lord Buddha’s enlightenment.

SOUTH INDIA References

Nagarjuna Sagar, earlier called Ajanta and Ellora, Domestic Tourism, Vijayapuri in ancient times, is an Safari India, August 1999, New important Buddhist site located 150 Delhi, vol. XXI No. 8, pp.: 11-14. kms from Hyderabad in Andhra Pradesh. It is named after the Buddhist Basham, A.L. (1966), ‘The Growth of Saint Acharya and reveals Buddhism’, Religion: Cults, one of the most outstanding Buddhist Doctrines and Metaphysics, The civilizations of the 3rd Century AD. A Wonder that was India, Canberra, replica of the excavated site has been pp.: 263-289. created and carefully preserved on an island known as Nagarjuna Konda. The Department of Tourism, Government of excavations have uncovered Bihar, Buddham Sharanam Mahachaitya, the most sacred of the Gachhami, New Delhi. Stupas. An inscription in Brahmi characters states that the relics of Department of Tourism, Government of Buddha lie within the Mahachaitya India, Buddhist Sites in India, New while others have revealed the Delhi, November 1997. existence of a Vihara and also an Aswamedha (sacrificial alter), besides Department of Tourism, Government of tools from the Paleolithic and Neolithic India by India Tourism ages. Development Corporation Ltd., The Buddhist Circuit, December CONCLUSION 1993, pp.: 23-32. The Buddhist Shrines of India have Department of Tourism, Government of tremendous potential to attract large Uttar Pradesh by Director Tourism, number of tourists from Buddhist Uttar Pradesh Itinerary Guide, Countries of the Far East and South- Lucknow, 1998, pp.: 29-32. East Asia. Unfortunately due to lack of proper roads, road side amenities, other Dev., A. (1993), The Heritage of India, infrastructural facilities and inadequate The Story Of Civilization, volume promotional efforts on the part of two, published by National Council tourism departments of both Central of Educational Research and and State Governments, many such Training (NCERT), New Delhi, places are lying into oblivion. It is pp.: 374-380. hoped that the recently inaugurated Indian Airlines flight between Bangkok and BodhGaya would greatly facilitate

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Inthisan, P.T. (2002), THAI BUDDHAGAYA (on-line), Available:http://www.thanat.iirt.net / Wat%20Thai%20Homepage/ index .html

Makhfi, S.H.(1994), “Buddha’s Domain Rajgir & Nalanda”, Indrama, New Delhi, Vol. XIX No. 1, pp.: 2-7.

Menon, M.S.N.(1999), “Importance of the Buddhist Circuit”, The Tribune, January 15.

Luniya, B.N. (1989), Splendour of Art, in Life and Culture in Ancient India, Third Edition, Lakshmi Narain Agarwal educational publishers, Agra, pp.: 385-390.

Sharma, P. (1994), “The Monasteries of Ladakh”, Indrama, New Delhi, Vol. XIX No. 1, pp.: 9-14.

Tripathi, M. (2002), “Buddhism comes HOME to India”, Sunday Style, The Nation, August 4.

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Indian Tourist sites

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